A couple things from my own technique: 1. Not only is a sharper blade easier to cut with, it's safer since the cutting motion will be smoother. You'll be less likely to slip and slice yourself because you won't need nearly as much pressure to make the cut. 2. If you using single-blade nippers, use them LAST with this technique. Use a cheap set to cut the part out of the runner, and then your expensive GodHand or DSPIAE to do the final cut.
Note that the plastic that holds between the runner and a part is called "gate"... some recent gunplas from 2019 esp. RG and MG are mostly molded in undergate, which means that the gate is under a part where it won't be aesthetically visible even if you ignore the nub marks.
@@bdf2660 it means that you only have to worry about making the cuts smooth to ensure that parts fit, but you don't have to worry about discoloured blemishes since they will not be visible after assembly
@@KS-tz9sgare they better tho? Thinking about building one again after like 10 or maybe 15 years haha. Had a few hg and mostly mg builds. What about the “new” RG ones? So which would you recommend : RG or new MG
You can sharpen some cheapo flush cutters when they inevitably dull (particularly ones intended for electronics, flush cutters etc) you can get these fairly sharp with just your sand paper and a sheet of glass (or other very flat surface, like a marble counter or melamine shelf say). The glass could be from a picture frame, or just a replacement sheet from a hardware store - as long as it's flat, which is critical for this to work. Stick some fine sand paper down to your flat surface, and put the flat side of your cutters onto the paper. What you want to do is get it as flat as your flat surface, and get them closing flush. Rock them back and forth a bit on the glass and feel for where they lay most flat - and start sanding it even flatter. Test as you go on some left over sprue until you're happy with it And again, this is entirely for super cheapo flush cutters, like you'd find at a Walmart or Harbor Freight Do not attempt this with any decent nippers, especially ones that say they have one sharp edge (God Hands) or who's special gimmick is that they don't close flush (such as Xurons). This trick is something I adopted from the 'Scary Sharp' method, which I use to sharpen/lap my scissors, chisels and planes
Brushing up on the basics since I haven’t built in a while, great demonstration. I can’t tell you how important it is to not get impatient with numb marks I still need to properly redo Gold Frame Amatsu Mina.
I definitely should have watched this before assembling my first one with nothing but rusty old wire cutters and a nail clipper lol. Thanks for the tips tho, I'll keep them in mind for the next time xD
I've found that a little bit of heat from a blow dryer and/or heat gun will make stress marks vanish. It doesn't warp anything as you're just passing it quickly over the piece, not just sitting there blasting the part. I'd definitely practice on fodder bits first before trying on something important. Always works for me when I need it.
That makes sense; I've seen router-cut acrylic/perspex edges cleaned up with a gas torch as well. I wonder if those little butane torch cigarette lighters would work without melting/scorching.
With sanding try not to hit the edges of the piece. U can leave scrapes in the edges that are almost impossible to fully get out. Learned that the hard way lol.
Thank you so much! I have only built three gunpla models, with only one being a MG, and I kept trying to get SO close with my pinchers, and they kept looking a little, well, janky. I'm building another model right now and these tips have made me see a HUGE difference and I'm only on the chest piece. I just really need to get good at stickers and painting
This was very helpful, I was just making the model kits very badly for a while and been annoyed with the marks, and I want to make them look better. This has helped me out cuz I was being stubborn for a while not looking up help
This definitely is the foundation of Gunpla. Thanks for uploading this tutorial. Just a suggestion. Instead of sand paper, sanding sponges and glass files are more efficient and effective.
@xxnike629xx This tutorial will be useful for you to remove the nubs from your MG AGE-1 Normal But it requires you to get back on the building again though, which will never happen Thanks to you still being *REKT* by your *COWARDICE* towards building a kit again 🤪 PS And it appears that you're also being *REKT* too by your *COWARDICE* towards speaking about my HGUC kit being *NOT* a P-Bandai huehuehue
Still a novice to model building, but I learned a simple trick for cutting the parts. Turn the nippers upside down, put them flush to the part you wish to cut, and snip. There's little to no nub afterward. 😊👍
as your nippers get more use, they become a bit more dull and eventually this leads to stress on the plastic where the nub wasn't cleanly cut as much as it was crushed. If you intend to go over the nubs with sandpaper, this really doesn't matter much, but some kits and parts are very hard to sand these marks away (think thruster bells). I always tend to cut my parts out with a good bit of nub left on them, then cut again in the direction of the thinnest point much closer to the part, then clean up with the hobby knife.
Great video! After my first kit and getting comfortable with clipping. I noticed a lot less stress marks. Before I was nervous and did not clip as strongly and quick as I needed to. For my uses I notice the knife sometimes does worse then a good clean clip on not flat parts.
Hey I’m building my first kit this week and wanted to inquire about you saying you needed to clip strong and fast? So is there a general rule for clipping speed?
Thanks a bunch I’ve been building gunplas for a min now but never looked up on how not to get nubs I just kept cutting off the nubs with the nippers as carefully as I could but def heading to the store now to get a hobby knife
Thank you for using a Jesta! Im working on the 1/144 HG Jesta and I'm finding that, although fun and easy, this kit is going to give me some headaches with those stress marks. I love the Jesta's so I want this to come out almost perfect for myself.
The most important lesson for a beginner is to replace your blades often. Not only does it make it easier to cut, you make less mistakes, and you are far less likely to slip and cut yourself. People tend to keep their x-acto blades far too long, I go through at least 2 per model kit
Good tips and video. I have given it a try, and now always use them : single blade nippers are a truly better and smoother and greatly help to avoid nub marks. A pleasure to work with such a tool, which really makes a difference and avoid a lot of sanding. Try them, and you'll adore them. I have a DSPIAE and a Tamiya, they are a bit expensive but truly worth the price.
i'm halfway through building RG RX 78-2 and boyy i just saw this video due to having a lot of stress marks 😂 but hey I'm enjoying the process and i'll be better 👏🏻
Such a great video! I can't wait to use these techniques on my next build and get a nicer outcome! I was wondering, what polishing box do you use or if you have a link? Thank you!
not me finding this after already causing a ton of stress mark on my banshee norn.. oops.. maybe picking it as my first kit outside of haropla was silly lol.
Started my first Gunpla today, also a Banshee Norn (destroy mode)...I too have a bunch of stress marks on the head and chest before finding this video lol
i just went back to your channel to say thank you very much for this cutting tutorial. i just finished my second gunpla and it is significantly better than my first attempt. i will continue to watch your channel and subscribe. more power to you sir
You should cut from inside outwards. Your pieces have a white spot because you push from side to side only. If anything cycle around the blade. The piece doesn't look good if it has a white spot where the nub used to be. Also about sanding, I don't know who invented this fashion but sanding is only being done to a piece that you are planning on painting. Good intentions but I am pretty sure many people didn't see the "perfect" piece you mentioned.
I'm glad I saw this tutorial. I'm a beginner in Gunpla and I had to buy the new Aerial 1/100. Since I'm a beginner I messed up on the clear bits of plastic that cover the Permet marks and it looks so bad. Do you have any recommendation on how to fix those marks? My nipper were just some cheap ones from a beginner kit I bought on amazon.
I just started the hobby and have only built about 10 models but I feel like they would look like a horror scene to you guys lol. At least now I know how to in theory stop all the stress marks and literal holes removing the parts from the sprue has been making
I made 6 Gunpla so far and I'm on my 7. I got better each time but I was still not 100% satisfied with how some gate & nub removal ended up. But I see that my instincts were right about fixing these a bit with just sanding or my fingernails, and that I'm not "crazy" about how even on a video like that it shows you that it's just not possible to not still have just a tiny little bit of a "marking" that can be seen if you really take a good look at the piece. Is there anything specific that can be done to remove nub marks and avoid damage on clear pieces? It's really hard to not have white marks appear on these even when being super cautious, and trying to correcting them doesn't really get the white off.
Question, if anyone can ask, what is the grit of a polishing/sanding box? Its a special grit or I can just buy another sand paper that got its grit number?
I'm not entirely sure about what you are asking here, but here are some tips I can tell you: 1. Polishing/Sanding box, paper, file has specific grit value. In my perspective, from low grit value upto around 1500, you can actually feel the differences in smoothness using hand, hence could be used to distinguish easily when you don't know what value it is exactly. 2. You can, and should keep track of the grit value of the polishing tool you purchase. The information should either be present while you buy it, or can be looked up easily. 3. While buying polishing tools, especially with sand paper, pay attention to the value & its grading system. I remember seeing 2 types of grading system, while having pretty similar grading value (for example 100 vs P100), but might not be interchangable.
Polishing compounds often work differently than just sandpaper (e.g. some deposit material that gets smaller as it polishes). My matte polisher claims to produce a "2000 grit finish" but it seems finer than that, and the glossy polisher is way beyond that. You can get a pretty nice finish with sandpaper as you go over 2000, it's just to taste.
It is and the tutorial is fine and all but the idea and example of where he leaves a nub longer and keeps cutting is just duplicating work. If you had a tree in your yard you were gonna cut, you would cut the lowest point you want it. You wouldn't cut it down to 10 ft, then 5 ft, then 3ft and then finally finish it. You'd cut to the lowest point of model without contacting it and then do his process of the rest imo and experience.
This video would be a lot more informational if you hadn't fast forwarded during the actual cutting and knifing portions. The overlays also cover your demonstration at points.
I wouldn't recommend using just any nail file unless they happen to list the grit #. That being said, I've used a nail buffer to help clean up when I didn't have extra-fine grit sandpaper and that worked just fine
![How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8I3D66tX9vw/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]](/img/tr.png)
Tomorrow I begin my first Gunpla kit, High Grade RX-78-2, and by God I’m going to make it so beautiful thanks to the tips in this video
Enjoy your build! That's a great kit.
Gotta get you a mg 78-2 next
@@prauwnsauce I actually did! Its the version 1.5
Nice! just got myself that one as well which is why I mentioned it, it’s NICE just wish the hands had a middle finger option
@@prauwnsauce It looks really cool but the poseability isn't perfect and the waist is a bit loose, but not a horrible first MG
A couple things from my own technique:
1. Not only is a sharper blade easier to cut with, it's safer since the cutting motion will be smoother. You'll be less likely to slip and slice yourself because you won't need nearly as much pressure to make the cut.
2. If you using single-blade nippers, use them LAST with this technique. Use a cheap set to cut the part out of the runner, and then your expensive GodHand or DSPIAE to do the final cut.
Note that the plastic that holds between the runner and a part is called "gate"... some recent gunplas from 2019 esp. RG and MG are mostly molded in undergate, which means that the gate is under a part where it won't be aesthetically visible even if you ignore the nub marks.
So that means what, exactly?
@@bdf2660 it means that you only have to worry about making the cuts smooth to ensure that parts fit, but you don't have to worry about discoloured blemishes since they will not be visible after assembly
@@disregardthat Thank you, I understand now
I realised that too with FM Aerial, modern gunplas are nothing like the 2000's MG kits I used to build
@@KS-tz9sgare they better tho? Thinking about building one again after like 10 or maybe 15 years haha.
Had a few hg and mostly mg builds.
What about the “new” RG ones? So which would you recommend : RG or new MG
You can sharpen some cheapo flush cutters when they inevitably dull (particularly ones intended for electronics, flush cutters etc) you can get these fairly sharp with just your sand paper and a sheet of glass (or other very flat surface, like a marble counter or melamine shelf say). The glass could be from a picture frame, or just a replacement sheet from a hardware store - as long as it's flat, which is critical for this to work.
Stick some fine sand paper down to your flat surface, and put the flat side of your cutters onto the paper. What you want to do is get it as flat as your flat surface, and get them closing flush.
Rock them back and forth a bit on the glass and feel for where they lay most flat - and start sanding it even flatter. Test as you go on some left over sprue until you're happy with it
And again, this is entirely for super cheapo flush cutters, like you'd find at a Walmart or Harbor Freight
Do not attempt this with any decent nippers, especially ones that say they have one sharp edge (God Hands) or who's special gimmick is that they don't close flush (such as Xurons).
This trick is something I adopted from the 'Scary Sharp' method, which I use to sharpen/lap my scissors, chisels and planes
Nice coke nails! I just use a straw or a spoon myself.
Come on man, at least use a rolled up $20. 🤣
Thank god im not the only one to notice😂😂😂😅
Saca la bolsita 🔑
And it's so dirty...
Couldn't focus on his directions.
Disgusting 😑
Brushing up on the basics since I haven’t built in a while, great demonstration. I can’t tell you how important it is to not get impatient with numb marks I still need to properly redo Gold Frame Amatsu Mina.
Came back to brush up before building my first MG and me from 2 years ago would be so disappointed
@@Huhbd373LoL
Let me show how to cut this and avoid stress marks, proceeds to fast forward through so you can't see...
Hahahaha I was looking for this comment 😅
I definitely should have watched this before assembling my first one with nothing but rusty old wire cutters and a nail clipper lol. Thanks for the tips tho, I'll keep them in mind for the next time xD
I've found that a little bit of heat from a blow dryer and/or heat gun will make stress marks vanish. It doesn't warp anything as you're just passing it quickly over the piece, not just sitting there blasting the part. I'd definitely practice on fodder bits first before trying on something important. Always works for me when I need it.
Look up heat gun and acetone when you have the time. They use a similar technique with head lamps. Just have never seen it used on a gunpla
That makes sense; I've seen router-cut acrylic/perspex edges cleaned up with a gas torch as well. I wonder if those little butane torch cigarette lighters would work without melting/scorching.
huh, I've gotta try that
With sanding try not to hit the edges of the piece. U can leave scrapes in the edges that are almost impossible to fully get out. Learned that the hard way lol.
Thank you so much! I have only built three gunpla models, with only one being a MG, and I kept trying to get SO close with my pinchers, and they kept looking a little, well, janky. I'm building another model right now and these tips have made me see a HUGE difference and I'm only on the chest piece. I just really need to get good at stickers and painting
Thank you so much, I just recently started building gunplas and this video will help me a great deal.
Thank you. I'm new to building model kits and the only one I've built is completely full of stress marks.
This was very helpful, I was just making the model kits very badly for a while and been annoyed with the marks, and I want to make them look better.
This has helped me out cuz I was being stubborn for a while not looking up help
This definitely is the foundation of Gunpla. Thanks for uploading this tutorial.
Just a suggestion. Instead of sand paper, sanding sponges and glass files are more efficient and effective.
@xxnike629xx This tutorial will be useful for you to remove the nubs from your MG AGE-1 Normal
But it requires you to get back on the building again though, which will never happen
Thanks to you still being *REKT* by your *COWARDICE* towards building a kit again 🤪
PS And it appears that you're also being *REKT* too by your *COWARDICE* towards speaking about my HGUC kit being *NOT* a P-Bandai huehuehue
Build your kits Suiton
Still a novice to model building, but I learned a simple trick for cutting the parts. Turn the nippers upside down, put them flush to the part you wish to cut, and snip. There's little to no nub afterward. 😊👍
as your nippers get more use, they become a bit more dull and eventually this leads to stress on the plastic where the nub wasn't cleanly cut as much as it was crushed. If you intend to go over the nubs with sandpaper, this really doesn't matter much, but some kits and parts are very hard to sand these marks away (think thruster bells).
I always tend to cut my parts out with a good bit of nub left on them, then cut again in the direction of the thinnest point much closer to the part, then clean up with the hobby knife.
That's literally how you use nippers u potato
Great video!
After my first kit and getting comfortable with clipping. I noticed a lot less stress marks.
Before I was nervous and did not clip as strongly and quick as I needed to. For my uses I notice the knife sometimes does worse then a good clean clip on not flat parts.
Hey I’m building my first kit this week and wanted to inquire about you saying you needed to clip strong and fast?
So is there a general rule for clipping speed?
I used to work at a furniture store, basicly the way you use the knife is how we carpenter use the chisle so the surface looked eaven
I am so glad I watched this video.
I had assumed I do exactly the opposite that you demonstrate!
Thank you.
Thanks a bunch I’ve been building gunplas for a min now but never looked up on how not to get nubs I just kept cutting off the nubs with the nippers as carefully as I could but def heading to the store now to get a hobby knife
good stuff, my kids getting into these now. Need to use those cutters on that pinky finger nail though lol
“CUT LIKE A PRO”
my emo friend thanks you for making this video
the important shots are either out of focus or sped up ...
Yeah ! Quite anoying !
Thank you for using a Jesta! Im working on the 1/144 HG Jesta and I'm finding that, although fun and easy, this kit is going to give me some headaches with those stress marks. I love the Jesta's so I want this to come out almost perfect for myself.
MG RG HG Im working on those grades like Destroy mode gunplas.
Thanks for these TIPS, gonna start on GUNPLA, building my DREAM TEAM , Gundam Wing Models
Why are you writing like Greg hefley
the most important part of the video shouldn't be fast forwarded.
The most important lesson for a beginner is to replace your blades often.
Not only does it make it easier to cut, you make less mistakes, and you are far less likely to slip and cut yourself.
People tend to keep their x-acto blades far too long, I go through at least 2 per model kit
Thanks for this. Looking on getting back to building kits after several years and I am currently refreshing myself with the techniques.
Good tips and video. I have given it a try, and now always use them : single blade nippers are a truly better and smoother and greatly help to avoid nub marks. A pleasure to work with such a tool, which really makes a difference and avoid a lot of sanding. Try them, and you'll adore them. I have a DSPIAE and a Tamiya, they are a bit expensive but truly worth the price.
Awesome, nub marks are the bane of my existence
i'm halfway through building RG RX 78-2 and boyy i just saw this video due to having a lot of stress marks 😂 but hey I'm enjoying the process and i'll be better 👏🏻
May I ask why you left one pinky nail long?
This! Lol
Great informative video but trim that coke nail man!
nose picking...or coke nail lol
I actually went through the comments to see if anyone pointed it out. Man it is long and dirty at the same time. Ugh.
It was bothering me too lmao
It’s a thing coke heads do
Thank you so much. After goofing up my HGUC Leo (😑) I really needed to better my knowledge before I start my other kits. Lol
Such a great video! I can't wait to use these techniques on my next build and get a nicer outcome! I was wondering, what polishing box do you use or if you have a link? Thank you!
Super informative video and easy to follow. Thanks for posting this.
Which one leaves more stress marks, nipping towards the shape of the nub or against?
Bro i cant stop looking at your pinky nail bro. I need a video to find out why you keep it so long and how it helps in your gunpla builds immediately.
to shove boggers
Giving you a comment to help with algorithm stuff. Keep up the good work.
After you cut off the nubs you should cut your finger nails
Oh come on, no need to go after his nails.
@@SarahBabe amogus
@@SarahBabe u have the time for gunpla means you have time to trim your nails
@@SarahBabe nah dude they're disgusting
@@punchypizzainpizza6616 especially that right pinky 😬🤮
Gotta love the ultra safe method of cutting towards yourself when removing nubs with the knife, on a tiny rigid item right next to your fingers.
I do this all the time with warhammer kits almost every week for the last 5 years and never cut myself, you just have to be careful.
"Now go get your f*ckin shine box" 🤬 -Billy Batts, Goodfellas
Thanks a lot. Some techniques could be applied for low budget beginner like me. Instead of tutorial "how to use expensive tools for beginner"
Literally none of these tools are expensive, unless you spent 50 bucks on a Godhand nipper
@@jacobpacheco3165 good quality single edge nipper cost almost or some even more than HG
I found that Tamiya 69939 is also good tool to clean up surface after cutting
Wish I would have done this research before i started building my forst gunpla lol. Thank you
not me finding this after already causing a ton of stress mark on my banshee norn.. oops.. maybe picking it as my first kit outside of haropla was silly lol.
oof, i feel so bad :(
Started my first Gunpla today, also a Banshee Norn (destroy mode)...I too have a bunch of stress marks on the head and chest before finding this video lol
Mannn I’ve been cutting all wrong! Thank you for this
Thanks man this is really helpful! I'm excited to build my Kamen Rider Figure Rise this weekend 😊
You can always paint over the stress marks. Not game over.
But definitely don’t try be lazy when cutting
Thanks so much for the pearls!! I appreciate the amazing explanation and close up 🙏🏽
Thanks for the tutorial
One tip against the way shown in the video, DO NOT CUT TOWARDS YOURSELF
Stop fast forwarding through the parts you've explained. The visual aid is what a lot of people are here for.
i just went back to your channel to say thank you very much for this cutting tutorial. i just finished my second gunpla and it is significantly better than my first attempt. i will continue to watch your channel and subscribe. more power to you sir
I suggest use the nipper which call GOD HAND to replace design knife to clear the NUB. It is more safety.
my man got them drummer hands
You should cut from inside outwards. Your pieces have a white spot because you push from side to side only. If anything cycle around the blade. The piece doesn't look good if it has a white spot where the nub used to be. Also about sanding, I don't know who invented this fashion but sanding is only being done to a piece that you are planning on painting. Good intentions but I am pretty sure many people didn't see the "perfect" piece you mentioned.
Every gunpla builders use that methods. Not only by gundamflexing. Your opinion is minority & only "works" for your community circle
Thank you so much for this tutorial.
Nice tips the sand paper fixes really made my kit super clean
A fine tutorial. Time to remove the sp120 from my wishlist.
I'm glad I saw this tutorial. I'm a beginner in Gunpla and I had to buy the new Aerial 1/100. Since I'm a beginner I messed up on the clear bits of plastic that cover the Permet marks and it looks so bad.
Do you have any recommendation on how to fix those marks? My nipper were just some cheap ones from a beginner kit I bought on amazon.
I just started the hobby and have only built about 10 models but I feel like they would look like a horror scene to you guys lol.
At least now I know how to in theory stop all the stress marks and literal holes removing the parts from the sprue has been making
Would it be possible for you to add links to the tools your using. It would be appreciated. Great video!!
This guy is so helpful god thank you I was doing it wrong but I saw your vid I saw my mistake
I am thinking about getting a HG kit, I've never built Gunpla before. Would nippers and an Hobby Knife be all I need?
what brand do you use for the polish box? is it similar with Tamiya 87192 Polishing Compound Sponges?
9:10 I generally don't worry about making pieces like that look too pretty as they'll be covered completely because it's getting put into a socket
That's why he used those pieces! A good example of a stress mark that won't mess up his kit.
I made 6 Gunpla so far and I'm on my 7. I got better each time but I was still not 100% satisfied with how some gate & nub removal ended up. But I see that my instincts were right about fixing these a bit with just sanding or my fingernails, and that I'm not "crazy" about how even on a video like that it shows you that it's just not possible to not still have just a tiny little bit of a "marking" that can be seen if you really take a good look at the piece.
Is there anything specific that can be done to remove nub marks and avoid damage on clear pieces? It's really hard to not have white marks appear on these even when being super cautious, and trying to correcting them doesn't really get the white off.
Is there any way you can link the tools you are using?
Is it possible to remove stickers without damaging them?
I use sand paper to remove nub mark cuz im young
Hi, What is the brand for shine board?
do you golf? why the calluses pattern on your right hand?
You say swipe in one direction but go front to back then back to front. That would be 2 directions would it not?
What camera do you use for gunpla?
Hi! Would you be able to post a link of that polishing box that you are using?
Never head of a polish box, where can i find one?
I use finger nail clippers so the cut is from both sides.
This may sound a dumb question but how do you deal with sprue marks on curved surfaces?
Also, how would you polish a curved surface?
S A N D P A P E R
I can also add how to sharpen your blades without buying a new one. Just use 1000-1500 grit sandpaper. The cut will be even cleaner and shiny..
I wish I found this before making my own Jesta Cannon. I feel like I have been doing it wrong-
thank u so much! keep doing this amazing content!
Exacto knife goes brrrrrrrr
New here as well have a mg spiegal gundam. This will help a lot with it being such a dark blue
Where to buy shine or polish box? I cant find them on Amazon surprisingly.
Stopped watching the second I caught a glimpse of that dirty dagger of a pinky nail.
When i think about what gunpla actually is, the majority of it is just doing this over and over, they don’t tell you that when you sign up
Question, if anyone can ask, what is the grit of a polishing/sanding box? Its a special grit or I can just buy another sand paper that got its grit number?
I'm not entirely sure about what you are asking here, but here are some tips I can tell you:
1. Polishing/Sanding box, paper, file has specific grit value. In my perspective, from low grit value upto around 1500, you can actually feel the differences in smoothness using hand, hence could be used to distinguish easily when you don't know what value it is exactly.
2. You can, and should keep track of the grit value of the polishing tool you purchase. The information should either be present while you buy it, or can be looked up easily.
3. While buying polishing tools, especially with sand paper, pay attention to the value & its grading system. I remember seeing 2 types of grading system, while having pretty similar grading value (for example 100 vs P100), but might not be interchangable.
Polishing compounds often work differently than just sandpaper (e.g. some deposit material that gets smaller as it polishes). My matte polisher claims to produce a "2000 grit finish" but it seems finer than that, and the glossy polisher is way beyond that. You can get a pretty nice finish with sandpaper as you go over 2000, it's just to taste.
Is a hobby knife the same thing as an exact blade?
Yes.
It is and the tutorial is fine and all but the idea and example of where he leaves a nub longer and keeps cutting is just duplicating work. If you had a tree in your yard you were gonna cut, you would cut the lowest point you want it. You wouldn't cut it down to 10 ft, then 5 ft, then 3ft and then finally finish it. You'd cut to the lowest point of model without contacting it and then do his process of the rest imo and experience.
Im new to this, thanks for sharing.
How high grain are we talking about on sand paper?
This video would be a lot more informational if you hadn't fast forwarded during the actual cutting and knifing portions. The overlays also cover your demonstration at points.
I was using the sand paper to remove nubs. Is that incorrect?
God hand nippers, razer glass file, and sanding sponge set. That’s all you need
5:40. What does one direction mean where you’re from?
Can you use a nail file in replace of sandpaper.
I wouldn't recommend using just any nail file unless they happen to list the grit #. That being said, I've used a nail buffer to help clean up when I didn't have extra-fine grit sandpaper and that worked just fine
Que buen tutorial, gracias 😎👌
Thanks!
I just use a small toe nail clipper to take off those nibs
Wish you hadn't fast forwarded the video right when you're working the pieces. 😐
You can also use hobby knife + cheap amazon nano glass file + melanine sponge!
Thanks for this content. its useful for me