Easy Gunpla Tutorial - Fix Stress Marks, Damages and Blemishes!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- Easy Gunpla Tutorial - Fix Stress Marks, Damages and Blemishes!
In this video, I will be going over a short Gunpla tutorial to help you remove those pesky white marks, blemishes, and seam lines all at once. This will give you a smooth, professional looking finish. I hope you find this helpful!
Watch more of my easy tutorial videos!
• [Beginner] Gunpla Tuto...
Everything you need in this video:
- Tamiya Cement
- A small glass container
- A paint brush with a small tip
- Sandpaper - ranging from 800 to 2000
- A polish box
- The original runner where your piece was cut out
- A pair of good nippers
- Hobby knife (not mentioned)
Step One: You will need to first pour Tamiya Cement into the small glass container. There are no specific measurements on how much you want to pour in. I generally just pour in as much to A) cover the bottom, and B) pour as high as a few millimeters.
Step Two: With a good pair of sharp nippers and the same original runner from where the pieces were cut out of, you will begin cutting out very small bits and pieces and put them in the container with the cement.
Step Three: Wait at least 1-2 hours for the small bits and pieces to melt. Now, you have an adhesive that is the same color of the pieces you want to fix; ready to be applied. Just mix the material in the glass container until it is even.
Step Four: With your brush and your damaged pieces, begin applying the adhesive as you would for seemline removals. Now that you put the piece back together, you will still need to fix that small looking blemish that was left behind when you cut it out of the runner.
Step Five: Now that the piece is back together, and the material has been added to the seamlines and to the blemishes, leave it to dry.
Step Six: Now that the piece is dry, you are ready to use your hobby knife to remove the excessive adhesive along your seam lines and sand down the locations where you applied the liquid material.
Short. Instructive. No wasted time. => A masterful tutorial.
How long have you two been dating?
@Hatori Ibuki what the fuck.
@@LunarTikOfficial 😳
@@LunarTikOfficial 😂😂😂
so are you gonna hit him back with a counter roast or nawh 🤷🏽♂️
And this kids is how I realized I can just recast the runners into replacement parts.
get a mold using blue stuff and you got lots of extra weapons
@@TwiGuy4 would the acetone melt the blue stuff?
Can't believe your wall in the UK was just made up of duped replacement parts :(
@@lester44444
Imao
@@andrewtheanimenerd
Potentially but it may not set correctly.
instead of wasting all that cement, I've found that just shaving a runner with a razor blade into a little glass or metal bowl then adding a little cement at a time, is less wasteful and breaks the plastic down faster. Always be cautious of the fumes this produces!
i think using a larger batch might be useful for an entire kit
any idea how long that stuff would last in the glass container? or will it dry up?
Is this work on any type / brand / thickness of cemment , or just tamiya ?
acetone does the same and no need for cement until you're ready to use it
What do you mean it creates fumes?
Imagine when you finally fixed the seam and you forgot your polycap.
Bruh moment....
Oh that’s a nightmare
bruhhhhhhhh
Can that be fixed tho? Cutting the part and fixing the seam with the same solution?
Lester Walit ideally yeah but it’s definitely still a pain in the ass, and they aren’t very easy to get apart after. I’ve only had it happen once but I made sure it never happened again after lmao
6:06 Look at his sanding skill. It's so fast!
4thrun z4la no doubt he is on trans am mode while sanding 😂
So fast it makes it look like he's running a belt sander!
Fadzil KJ Basri he’s covered himself in red paint
It’s so fast it’s like it’s in fast motion. Witch it is
@@DickieDs r/woosh
It's a good thing I'm a weirdo who saved my runners and boxes, so now I can fix all the ones I first built.
you're not the only one
Oh tell me about it.
I did the same runners are really useful for making anttenas and stuff
It's great gum!
Everyone does that
I got this recommendation out of nowhere
it's like youtube knows I bought MG Sinanju many years ago but never started putting it together
that's pretty rare now. you're probably in comfortable profit if you did wanna sell it :p
Is it rare?
Same, I just bought my first ever MS.
@@technicalerr0r 3 years later the video popped up again and my sinanju is still in the box untouched lmaoo
I don't think it's rare but I won't sell it anyway
I've done this since the 1970s. I'm astonished that other kit-stickers have never heard of it.
I have been painting and modeling for 30+ years. I love it when i find something i didn't know and learned a new technique to take me to another level. Thanks man saves me a ton of time versus using putty to fill in the areas. Thank you for posting this i really do love learning something new. See you can teach us old dogs new tricks!
I second this.
If you are modelling aircrafts or armor that has a lot of clear pieces- dip it in gloss varnish, thank me later.
@@guyfriedman295 say what? Dip or run clear down the seams? I’m going to have to look into this 👍
@@FooshMan dip the canopy in gloss varnish
@@guyfriedman295 wait what? i am doing some clear gunplas here, you can just use gloss varnish for this? wow that's neat
Actually that finished piece looks so good that i'm considering doing this to remove seam lines on the kits i like the most, great video!
You can skip the step where you melt a bunch of plastic in a jar. That's just so you have enough material to fill in the blemishes.
You can remove seam lines from parts as you go by applying a bit of cement to each side of the part as you put them together. Hold together firmly with clamps/fingers for at least 60 seconds. Seam line will be 90% gone in most cases as the two pieces will be welded together as explained in the video. Sand and polish as needed,especially if any seam line remains
@@monkey4soul thx
@@monkey4soul but that stress mark tho. Either use this method or use a putty (if you'll be painting).
Lol if you're painting why worry about stress marks?
@@monkey4soul with nothing to fill it up, them tiny craters would still be there.
I work with other plastic model kits, but this tutorial equally applies. Fantastic demonstration and after 30+ years of constructing plastic models, I have never come across this concept. Fantastic!
_I work with other plastic model kits, but this tutorial equally applies._ My thoughts exactly. The video could've benefited from broader labeling as it's not unique to Gundam.
That said, this is a fairly established approach known as *sprue goo.*
That is amazing! It's like one solid piece, I'm definitely doing this with my master grades from now on.
So glad I found this, I started building my first kit yesterday and accidentally filed some divots into a pretty visible spot. I was going to chalk it up to being my first kit but this gives me hope that I could fix it pretty painlessly!
This is basically the same principle as making you're own wood filler.
Thanks for the tip
Thank you SO MUCH for this video tutorial! I've been struggling with seams for ages and this was a real eye-opener : )
To the point, no wasted time, clear explanations. This is the best, thanks!
To save a bit on how much glue you're using, similar results can be achieved by saving the shavings from sanding, and at a couple drops of glue to it, mix with an old razor or toothpick, and apply the paste as he shows here. . Shot glasses are super cheap at thrift stores and can be cleaned fairly easily afterwards. But this would work well if you've got some seriously large areas to fill over, not just a small divot or gap to fill.
Update: did this myself on three sets of 4 legs, the thigh and calf needed filling both on edges and ends. Made way too much, in the future I'd mix up maybe a pea or peanut size of plastic trimmings at most and 3-5 drops of glue. On the plus side, using a shot glass meant I could cover the top and the mix was still useable after 3 nights, though needed a couple drops of glue to thin it (becomes almost like chewing gum on a hot day after that long). Took a bit of trimming and sanding, but otherwise the results are very good results with only a couple of the larger gaps needed a second layer. What's interesting is that on a smaller gap, the excess can be smoothed across the surface of the part, and only a bit of sanding is needed after.
Any specific kind of glue you'd recommend for this?
@@kaustubhshetty4950 any high quality cement would do. They all work the same.
@@kaustubhshetty4950 Wonderful contribution to the discussion. I wanted to try this with a small batch and this is a great way to go about it. Thank you.
@@Mushicus 😁👍
@@pablogonzalezhermosilla4210 the thing is in India the hobby model making industry is super small, so we don't have a lot of model making materials or cements, and when asked for cements we usually get are the construction ones 😅. So if I can know the chemical base for the glue or cement you guys are using..I can search using that chemical's name. I apologise if the question's a bit dumb 😅😅
Glad I came across this video. Not a Gunpla builder, I build armor and I found this application very helpful when it comes to having to use the kit's supplied barrels. I build quite a bit of WWII to Modern Russian armor and I found this mixture to work better when it came to assembling and finishing the rear fuel drums. I usually use either cement thinned down Tamiya Putty or the Tamiya Primer G but I think I like this way more.
This is legit what I've been looking for. A quick trick to help me get rid of seam lines. Thnx so much
I watched this video around the time that you posted it and now I’m working on a kit that I want to take to a new level for me and this video came to mind so here I am! I wish I could hit like again. Thanks for the clear and concise tutorial 🤙🏾
Interesting technique. I've seen others apply the cement to 2 pieces and doing something similar but the idea of melting the plastic into a glue is cool.
Excellent! Time to step up my straight build skills.
This approach works great. For smaller seams, stretched plastic sprue works really well too.
Thank you for the tutorial. The results look flawless!
Wow!
This is a very good idea using the Tamiya cement to melt the plastic, and then apply it on the area that needs to be cleaned up to (at the same time) remove the seam line, fill in dips, etc.
It's a good idea especially since you're using the same plastic the part came off of so there's no risk of discoloration or mismatched tones/shades from painting.
Awesome! 💯👍
@xxnike629xx But you still hoard boxes and refuse to build kits -_-
An excellent addition to everybody's toolkit is a "nano glass nail file", basically 2000 Grit on a small glass stick. There are also called Nails shine buffers. They do a incredible job and they are very cheap
There's a wealth of content on TH-cam for Warhammer modelling and painting that can be applied to this hobby
Hands down my favorite seam and nub mark removal. It's simple and it works. I keep watching it to make sure I did it right lol
You actually taught me a super important detail of the plastic cements. Someone at the hobby store I visited claimed they can be used as a clear primer substitute. The fact that they actually melt the plastic certainly explains why it seemed to completely destroy the clear parts I applied it to. Hobby store employees don’t always know what they are talking about it seems. Lesson learned.
That's some horrible misinformation you had. I'm sorry you destroyed some of your clear parts.
It's hard for stores to find intelligent employees nowadays.
@@omegacon4 I wouldn’t go that far. I didn’t know any better than the employee. It’s likely just a job for them, a mindset I do not blame them for having in this day and age.
@@skyeguy7914 That tells me either you have never managed anyone at work (at least not to corporate standards of excellence) OR your work standards are incredibly low.
@@omegacon4 no, it means even as someone who has managed others, I recognize that it’s not worth busting your ass day in and day out to get paid absolutely nothing and still not be able to afford rent, let alone put food on your table. But this is a topic of conversation better had on a different comment section. Not on a video about a hobby that people do because they enjoy it.
Thanks for this tip. Im gonna practice this to SD until perfection hehe
This is the kind of tutorial is what I'm looking for. Great work man!
Exactly what I needed, who knew runners had so many uses, no paint jobs needed 🙏😁
Very nice. I don't build gunpla, but this is really useful info for filling gaps and mold lines on 40k vehicles and other big models.
your wallet is more dead than ours... respect+++
Eh I do both and yeah definitely
Warhammer builders are a different breed for sure.
Im gonna give this a try next build
I stumbled on this vid some time agom, and started using this technique on space marines I recently aquired. I believe it saves me some time with gap filling.
Thanks a ton! I was panicking when I nicked my rg Hi-V a couple of times, so this saved my build!
Now this is some God-like powers i have ever seen in gunpla history
I prefer this technique:
1. Glue two pieces tohether
2. Let it dry
3. Mark damaged places with tape
4. Use putty
5. And smirk down all unnecessary putty
easier and faster,
You forgot to mention the neccessary step of painting, unlike the method shown in this video.
Never thought I would see sprue goo used on Gunpla, this is a great use of it! I never would have thought of this, and I'm a scale modeler. Wonderful just how many skills transfer over. Great video on how to make this wonderful substance!
Runner recycling is genius. Well done!
This is by far the most concise and effective method I've come across. Excellent solution, I've never seen anyone even try this. Thank you, great video
Good tutorial, thanks! I hate seam lines, especially when they are visible on aircraft nose cones... I will try your method since I hate putty either.)))
Most handy video.
Probably the coolest tip video I've come across so far, as a relatively new custom gunpla hobbyist. I'm thinking you can also use this same process for loose joints, by adding plastic layers to the joint. Subscribed!!!
Good old "sprue glue". Useful for most model kits based on polystyrene plastics.
In a pinch it can also work as gap filler in other materials as the substance essentially dries/cures back into polystyrene.
I do this too... I call it Spru-Glue. Great tutorial!
I never knew Tamiya cement was used like this! Learned a lot from this video! 👍🏻
Wow, I fully expected painting to be a requirement here. Excellent tutorial!!
This is a great tutorial. I've only ever used regular model filler and painted over the top. I'll have to try this technique for parts that don't need painting.
Dude, I didn't even have a gunpla and still watch this tutorial.
So what Gunpla did you buy?
if u don't have much money, buy Daban gunpla like me
Become one of us!! It’s a lot of fun and relaxing and the end result is satisfying JOIN THE ADDICTION
Consider picking it up as a hobby! It can be very relaxing 😌
welp gotta use this tip to fix that one tiny error that i had back when i tried to clear the blue destiny's seam lines
I didn't even know that you can actually do this.. really great tutorial
Learn something everyday! Thanks. Applying this to my armor builds! Brilliant and subscribed!
It's like a plastic putty, nice one.
Thanks for the great tutorial!
For anyone who was wondering like I was, the glass jar is specifically a Tamiya Paint Mixing Jar that seems to run around $3 to $8 USD depending on what size you're looking to purchase. Seems like USA Gundam Store and Amazon carry it at first glance. I'm sure more places do as well.
Great tutorial, im using this on my current build and its working great. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad I bump into this tutorial! So helpful!
I'm glad you don't have to do this anymore on newer kits
Why?
@@natcroix7544 most of the newer kits have their blemishes hidden. Its pretty hard to explain in detail but you should try building old kits vs new kits
Never thought of that, damn
I'm not into Gunpla, but there are plenty of seams I want to fix in my plane/tank/car models.
Most solutions are nowhere as smooth as this, so I'll be using it!
Thank you for the high level gunpla tips.
Very neat 👌, great explanation, concise, clear execution. QUESTION: how do you clean your brush from this new runner cement paste?? Same thinner as for paints? And in general, for people who can't access Tamiya cement; whats the best equivalent options as glue/thinners in an American hobby store?🤔
GW plastic glue or just plain acetone should do the same thing.
Just a passing interest in Gunpla, but this tutorial is top notch. You’ve really got a good style going here. Props!
Super grateful for this wonderful tutorial. I can’t wait to try it out.
What a fantastic way of fixing seam lines. I am going to try that. Thanks
Imma try this on wireless earphones
The only issue i would have with this is sanding the entirety of the peace at the end. it leaves you open to miss matched proportions if you're a little too heavy handed especially on smaller kits.
So what would you do? I’m not starting lol just trying to get some ideas together 👍
@@toker2k the method in it self is good but sanding the entirety of the peace can yield issues.
I personally use tamiya putty on my kits.
@@Not_Hans what makes sanding putty different from cement? is putty easier to sand?
@@hargarlar yes it's a lot easier to sand compared to melted plastic.
@@Not_Hans It's an ok solution if you've got no other options. I run out of putty halfway through my current project and couldn't afford to restock so this was very helpful. It is indeed a pain in the ass to sand but it's better than nothing.
Very helpful especially for older kits.
Always shows up in my recommendations, here you go buddy 👍🏼
if i decide to fix using cement and sanding afterwards, do i have to paint the part to make all the sides look even as i wont be sanding all 4 sides of the arm. or is a top coat sufficent enough to make the part look even? im fine with seams but nub marks really bothers me as they're usually white in color. im just starting out and im only planing to give my model a wash and matt top coat.
If you are bothered by nub marks cut 1-2mm away from the part and sand down the nub, finishing with a very fine abrasive usualy leaves little to no mark, if there is a slight mark put some thin cement over the top and that will most likely fix it.
Matte top coat will be fine as long as you sanded the seams down nice and smooth. Matte is amazing for that, heck even if you painted some parts and left others bare, matte makes it impossible to tell what was and wasn't paint.
Terry Forsdyke what kind of sand paper should I use to rub it down with?
@@greenplayz2376 sorry, only just noticed this, the type of abrasive does not matter much, but if you are polishing anything, 1,000+ grit should be fine enough that you do not notice the difference, sometimes on clear parts, or if you are polishing a metalic or transparrent paint you may want to go higher maybe 4,000, I usually use sanding sponges, something around 250 to remove the material, then something around 600 to remove out most of the marks, then wet sand at about 1,000 will usually completely get rid of the marks and blend it into the base plastic, although on lighter coloured plastics after removing the part from the sprue a flush cut with a fine-bladed, single edge nipper will not leave any visible nub.
Great tutorial, the only thing I'd ask is that when sanding, when you change grades show the part to the camera before continuing the high speed.
Definitely learned something though
Super efficient and helpful video. Thanks for sharing the tip!
I'm going to be honest, I started this video like, "OK, let's see what 'tips' this guy has.", but Bro, this is an amazing idea. I'm honestly, blown away at how smart this is.
how long does the “extra” clement mixture stay viable? it be nice to have some on hand at all times
As long as you store it in an air-tight container it should last a long time. If it starts to thicken up just add a bit more liquid cement.
I've had some mixed up for a couple of years now. Like Tarasdad said, keep it in an air tight jar....ready to go at all times.
If it thickens, add a little acetone.
@@cofrbooboo ty for this info
Nice tutorial! Just a quick question: How would you go about cleaning the bottle once you're done with your fixes?
bump. Also good sir how would u clean the brush.
A jar of acetone works to clean the bottle and brush, just remember to work in a well ventilated area and a respirator if needed. Acetone fumes are nasty.
That cement give you a cancer, it's very dangerous, so do that outdoor guys! P.S. And use your mask ;)
This is in place of painting.
If you're going to paint, you don't need to blend in with the original plastic.
I have a large jar of this on my bench, it just pulls out the jar when you're done without leaving anything visible, I use tamiya thinner then water to remove residues.
This is going to up my gunpla skills insurmountably.
A huge thank you from new gunpla fan. I was looking for a way to fix my first RG kit I finished a while ago.
Since hearing sanding was a part of gundum build I was wondering how that was, because I thought it would just destory the color.
from my experience they do discolour a bit on lower grit then you move gradually to higher grit and it looks smoother
You have to sand it from low grit to high, the low is to remove nubs and such, the high is to remove scratches the low did and being back plastic shine, generally you would want to go 400>800>1000>1200
How long do you find the mix lasts if left in the bottle? I was wondering if it maybe a good idea to make a few bottles of the main white and other colors to have on hand?
I´d like to know that too
@@mtubr I made some white a blackish grayish one 2 days ago seem ok so far in going to make a small bottle with blue tonight and see set it off the side for 2 weeks and check then in a month.
@@GalironRunner keep us updated please. Im from brazil and its pretty hard to get a hold on these gundams. Now I have 3 new and 1 Perfect grade that requires repair. I'd like to make em pristine. Thank you in advance!
yeah keep us posted
As someone familiar with the method, I would assume it would harden up within a week or two. Unless of course you had it stored in an air sealed container, the cement is just going to evaporate leaving behind the hard plastic.
This is something that is just easier for me to mix up as I need it. Personally I don't mix up a slurry but instead shave off long slices of the sprue and apply just enough cement for it to get mushy. Apply it to surfaces that also had cement applied and it works well enough once you smoosh it down.
The result is so clean, great tutorial.
New to gunpla, this was awesome thanks! Excited to fix my builds.
Question.
Does it matter if it is tamiya cement or tamiya thin cement?
Also, do you happen to know what the difference between the 2 is? I assume thin cement is just thinner?
thin cement dries faster you can also use Mr.Hobby as an alternative as well
you can use thin cements when joining extremely thin delicate parts such as kits from Hasegawa, but imo it's not very good when making such plastic paste for covering bigger damages
DO NOT USE cement that is not extra thin. In fact that Tamiya is not even the best one, but a Mr.Hobby Extra Thin is 100% solvent with 0% filler.
See in order to add some thickness and viscosity to the solvent, companies add varying amounts of plastic resin into the mix. This additional plastic material can actually result in slight discoloring of the plastic you melt in it. It's fine if you are painting anyway, but then you don't even need to do this anyway, just get normal plastic cement and paint over. Last I checked only that mr.hobby has a pure solvent, most others add a small percentage of plastic, but it's also been a long time since I looked into them so may be wrong.
Thin cement (tamiya thin, tamiya extra thin, Mr Cement S, Mr Cement SP) all are designed to offgas and dry very fast making this especially difficult. I would stick with a standard cement. Tamiya Cement (the basic type shown in the video) is especially good for this because it's highly available and very cheap, as well as its viscosity is well suited to this. Mr Cement Deluxe is quite good at doing this without the runner putty, just outright welding the two parts together without all the madness of waiting hours for cement to melt plastic bits, wasting all the extra, and wasting the glass bottle that is prohibitively difficult to clean.
@@GeorgeHale1984 the point of makjing runner putty is a very niche and specific situations. it's for cases where you need to fill in some pretty big holes or gaps that normal cement would not help with and requires a thicker putty cement. By making the putty yourself out of runners it allows you to color match the model if you do not plan on painting.
So, only for big holes/gaps and only if you have no plans to paint a model, it's not a use for everything tip, it's a seldom used but VERY useful when needed tip. I have used it once in a while and when I do need to, it's a god send. It's also great to used in cases of needing to reinforce and drill new holes for pinning a broken peg joint. And I have even seen one case of an absolute mad lad crafting a custom chest for an FA:G
Imagine what you can do with a translucent tree like what the beam saber blades come on.
This idea is borderline sexual.
@@8thlvlMage I don't even know how that is. Unless I should have said "...came attached to."
Man, that's absolutely crazy stuff, thanks so much for sharing!
I've never built a gunpla, but I'm going to do this on other kits. Thanks!
But if i am to paint my model, the color of the runner that i'll be using is not going to matter right?
i think it depends on if you would do a base coding first
you would see a difference in tone, very slighty, but for example if the piece is dark, and you use light coloured plastic, or vise versa. Doesn't have to match %100 but if the piece is dark, us a dark plastic, if its grey, use a grey, if white or light, use that.
But if you could, use the same color runner first and then just paint it
I think you may just apply modeling putty on those places, then spray a thin layer of liquid putty and you can paint on it without differences on color.
Use multiple different tone primers so it doesn't matter what is underneath.
6:10 if I could move my hand that fast I'd never leave the house.
I'd never be able to leave the hospital.
Nice craftsmanship. More work in the prep = greater results in the showcase.
This was so helpful. Thanks for the video!
TLDR: This is an incredibly common building technique with Warhammer models. The substance is often refered to as "spruegoo".
I didnt know you were the Flash bro
Thanks for this, simple concept but super useful!!
Just wow, there is a special place in heaven for you man!!! Thanks!!!!
I learned how to do this as well from my friend, but instead of cutting small pieces from the runner, i make it into a powder through a blender, and then the rest is the same
You could also use baking soda to the same effect.
Imagine accidentally dropping your fully built plamo into a bucket of Tamiya cement...
Glasses&Mouthplates I think there was a subplot in a gundam build fighters ova about this once.
@@Rikarikun a member of that GM mafia tried to convince the Meijin to fight in water, but he said that the water was Tamiya cement
Think I heard of someone doing that with their gundam’s head by accident.
Wow! Great tutorial!!! Very easy to understand and follow! Thanks!!!
Finaly ... something that able to fix my old gunpla ...
would love to see how to planning if the model is to be airbrushs, since these step seems to perfect all gaps but it is harder to airbrush all the assembled pieces. careful planning is a must but how? any recommend? looking forward to a video.
It helps to assemble the kit before making any modifications. If not the whole kit, try sub-assemblies like the arms and legs. It’s easier to see what needs to be done on an assembled piece. Once assembled, make notes. This will help identify the order of operations for modifications and primer/painting. On HG kits this will usually require a lot of work (masking) due to minimal part separation. It's definitely a process but gets more streamlined the more kits you do. It's very seldom we continue to make the same mistake continually...hopefully 😀. Happy building!
good idea!
なるほど、これは良いアイデア！
今度やってみよう（￣▽￣）
日本人見っけた！
めちゃくちゃいいアイデアですよね！
@@user-zp8ux3zk8r その素晴らしいアイデア！
Clicked on the right video today. Great explanation! Thanks dude.
i just started month's ago. and this really helps me on fixing the gaps.