ANET ET4 Printing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2020
- How to print with the ANET ET4 3D printer.
Required changes to the CURA ET4 default profile:
Change Infill Wipe Distance from 1.0 to 0.0 (to prevent external infill lines)
Change Z seam alignment to Random (if back seam is a problem)
Anet ET4 3D printer (Aliexpress) - www.aliexpress.com/item/32823...
Also available are: ET4-X, ET4 Silent, ET4 pro
Anet official TH-cam : th-cam.com/channels/0RS.html...
Anet official Twitter: / anet3dprinter
Anet official Facebook page: / anet3dtech
Anet official Facebook Group: / 16483. .
Anet ET4 3D printer (Banggood) - bit.ly/3fvM5Of
Anet PLA (Banggood) - bit.ly/2YLxjNq
Videos mentioned in the review
Dr Vaz - • ANET ET4 3D Printer Re...
BremTech - Infill before Walls video - • [19-B] Fix Lines on Ou...
Models from Thingiverse
Benchy - www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
XYZ Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
Jet Pilot - www.thingiverse.com/thing:110...
Music - Sunday Stroll by Huma Huma. TH-cam audio library.
Specs from ANET website:
【Ultra Silent with TMC2208 Stepper Driver / A4988 Stepper Driver】TMC 2208 stepper driver version up to 256 real micro-steps.
【Automatic Bed Leveling】 Auto-leveling frees you from time-consuming and labor-intensive leveling tasks.
【Power Outage Recovery】Resume printing and recover from exactly where it left off. No worries about unexpected power outages.
【Filament Detection】Filament detection that detects the filament end and sent reminder to avoid air-printing.
【Automatic Filament Assignment】Automatic load and unload the filament with just a click.
【Assembled In No Time】With modular designed units, you will be able to quick assemble your ET4 on your first try in 10min.
【Integrated Modular Design】Integrated, modular design with terminal pinboard for connection ports, covered wires and a more sleek appearance.
【Designed With Safety In Mind】The mainboard features thermal runaway protection.
【2.8-inch Touch Screen】2.8-inch LCD full-color touch screen for easy operation.
【Well-Made All-Metal Frame】ET4 is built to last with high strength aluminum frame. Enclosed metal unibody design enables a more stable and rigid structure with compact size.
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🎥 Video Recording Gear 🎤
In the Field
► Onboard camera Mobius C2 - bit.ly/2RLNLLg
► Hatcam Firefly 8S 90º with external mic - bit.ly/2DwAP2V
► External Microphone - bit.ly/30SwvDB
In the Workshop
► Wide workbench cam - GoPro HERO7 Black and Firefly 8S 170º - bit.ly/FF8S170
► Close up workbench cam - Panasonic Lumix LX10 1080 50fps
► Audio recording - Rode smartLav+ mic in Samsung A8 - bit.ly/2ZK6GGy
► Video Editing in Final Cut Pro X on 27" iMac
► All the Action cameras I have reviewed - newtonairlines.blogspot.com/20...
🔎 More information 🔍
► Newton Airlines Uncut - bit.ly/NewtonAirlinesUncut
► Newton Airlines blog - newtonairlines.blogspot.com.au
► Links for my build materials - newtonairlines.blogspot.com/20...
► Andrew Newton TH-cam - / andrewnewtonaustralia
► My portal - anewton.net
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Matek F405 Wing FCB - bit.ly/2SI3bAv
iNav GPS - bit.ly/2ERre6w
Beitian BN-880 GPS - bit.ly/2K7hdHc
► Depron Armin Wing build - • Depron wing build
► Skyshark P4X spars - www.kitesandfunthings.com/Pro...
► Knauf XPS Hot Wire Foam panels - www.bunnings.com.au/our-range...
► GBC EZLOAD laminating film (May be discontinued) - shop.quadient.com.au/products...
► Alternative 75 micron laminating film (not tried by me) - www.boundtoimpress.com.au/sho...
► Depron and foam board - My 6mm and 3mm depron came from www.tradewarehouse.com.au But from 2020 it seems they no longer sell proper depron. I have not found another supplier yet.
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#AndrewNewton #anetet4 #3dprinting
I need another hobby like a hole in the head but this 3D printing could complement so many other hobbies
This Guy is in a world of his own !!!
Good stuff Andrew, slowly disappearing down the rabbit hole of 3D printing. Raspberry Pi and Octoprint next.
Wouldn't work in my setup unfortunately
lol great review and yes takes a bit of time to get use to it I started using Prusa slicer I like it for easier use take care
Howdy from Texas. Thanks for the review. I jumped into 3D printing a couple weeks ago. I thought I'd get a printer to have something creative for my daughter and I to do while we quarantine during the coronavirus pandemic. I bought the Anet ET4X on Amazon because the reviews were decent and the price was low, $189 USD. I have no experience whatsoever with 3D printing. I was able to get nice quality prints after some tweaking with the settings. It took me about 5 prints to get a feel of this machine. I had to figure out how to level the bed and the temps and speeds adjusted (the manual was useless). Overall, I am pleased with this printer. I would like to know how it stacks up against the Ender. I keep hearing about the Ender's superiority but I will wait for your unbiased review since you have both printers.
Greetings Texas. Ender 3 is cruder construction but has calibration available on screen and much greater user knowledge base. But pretty much identical print quality really.
I took your suggestion a few weeks ago to try this printer and I'm not disappointed. It printed the sample models straight out of the box to a good standard so that I knew that the machine was up to scratch. Inevitably it was the configuration that gave me problems and I had to cobble together a profile from the various versions that I found on the disc, using pretty contradictory help files. Eventually I loaded the latest version of Cura which started to give me decent results. I'm grateful for your suggestion to deal with the infill bleed-through, although it has a certain patterning charm! Currently I'm struggling with prints that don't stick, and become a spaghetti tangle. This didn't happen when the machine was new, so perhaps the glass was coated. The auto-leveling doesn''t work at all, and the manual leveling worked just the once. So, all in all, a decent piece of kit that produces very smooth shapes, but is let down by inadequate software.
Michael Powell: Hi Michael, regarding your prints not sticking, I had the same issue, and finally resolved it. I have both a magnetic flexi print surface, and glass (preferred). I use Ivan Miranda's method, summarised below, on both surface types with great results: ( Ivan's video: th-cam.com/video/Kj4Xz3DwGSQ/w-d-xo.html )
(1) Clean any old debris off the print surface.
(2) Smear a small quantity of ordinary dishwashing liquid over the print surface. Using clean fingers works fine, but look out for sharp edges.
(3) Using your hand, not a cloth, rinse/wipe off thoroughly under a running tap with the temperature as hot as you are comfortable with.
(4) Dab dry with a paper towel. FROM THIS POINT ON, NEVER TOUCH THE PRINT SURFACE WITH YOUR FINGERS!
With glass, I occasionally get a bit of edge-curling, so if I am doing a big or tall print, I add the following:
Dribble a few drops of PVA glue on the print surface, and spread them out with clean fingertips. Use a damp paper towel, continue to spread over the whole surface, leaving only a "hazy" layer. You can use this immediately, as it is dry by the time the print bed is up to operating temperature, and it can be reused many times before it needs recoating.
One final tip: Never use isopropyl alcohol or similar cleaning fluids. In one of his lectures, Dan Gelbart explained that this leaves a layer of hydrocarbons which, even though it is only one molecule thick, acts as a separation layer!
I hope this is of some use to someone out there... TH-cam is full of methods, from Superglue to hairspray! This was my slant on it. :o)
Thanks mate. Great information 👍🍺
Nice one👍
Wow good
Really good Andrew, I like it! Similar issues to the Creality printers when they first appeared, but this may well become the "go to" entry level printer! Look out Ender 3.
That Profile issue was weird; how the hell did that get out of the factory!
Thank you.
Better profile and more complete instructions would be a great start
Would you mind sharing more about getting this thing working in the latest version of Cura? I just got the ET4 pro and Im having a heck of a time getting it printing. I switched profiles to the Ender 3 and got it to print but I had to manually raise the temps for the extruder and the bed default wasn't registering as 60 but rather 50.
No problems with this one. But I haven't changed the standby temps
Clear, concise and right on point. Thanks Andrew. Do you think you might get a CNC laser cutter/engraver at some point?
Thanks S&P I haven't felt the desire for a cutter yet
i think iam going to go with anet ET4, not ender 3. mainly because anet ET4 has a auto-levelling option, which really helps since this is going to be my first 3D printer
Have you had any issues so far? I think manual leveling is so easy that it shouldn't be the problem, it just takes a bit of time before each print, but it's not difficult. Just tedious.
But how is your experience so far?
@@LuLeBe my experience so far, welp, i went for the anet, and the auto levelling really helps if i want to print mechanical parts, and i had great experience with it so far. but, i had like 4 problems with the printer itself. first problem occured right as the printer arrived. the printer didnt want to print. fixed that by replacing the SD card. second problem probably occured from the factory aswell, but i noticed it like 1 month later, and it was that the printer head would move down on a specific Z and knock the print over. i didnt really bother to fix that problem since it didnt bother me, i wasnt printing big models anyways. third and final (final with the printer itself) problem was that when i started printing, the head always moved up by like 2mm up and messed up my levelling. fixed that by adding the Z offset plugin into cura. this occured like 5 months later, right after a cura update. the last problem isnt really a big one, and this is a problem with most producs with european plugs that are manufactured outside of eourope. the problem was that the plug didnt fit into the socket properly. fixed this by doing some plastic surgery to the plug.
but outside of all those problems, i enjoy the printer.
Hello Andrew.. I purchased an Ender 3 shortly after you did and enjoying it very much. Question: How do you compare a stock Ender 3 and this new Anet in regards to stepper motor sound? Which printer to you prefer overall?
ET4 has higher pitched motor sound at about the same volume. I'll do a comparison video after more time using both.
Hola como te va? consulta, me imprime muy lejos de la cama, ya calibre y configure cura pero aun sasi mantiene una distancia muy alta y eso hace que no se adhiera el filamento a la cama, a que se puede deber sabes? saludos
Manual bed level maybe. I don't have this one now. Look at Dr Vaz videos
I'm dying to know which is your favourite, this or the ender 3 🤔
Need more time, I'll do a video eventually
So how is the printer been doing ai have read alot of reviews that are saying that the extruder is not heating up so I was wandering how yours is holding up?
ET4 is going nicely. No extruder issues.
Interested to know what brought you to buying this printer?
Not happy with the Ender?
Both have pros and cons, I'll do a comparison soon. Once you get one you realise that you need 2, one for all day prints and the other for short jobs. They are both review products supplied by the sellers.
What is the BAR CODE BLOCK on the Left Pylon for ? It it the Make, Model and Serial Number of the printer ?
Good question, just checked and it the Anet website
@@AndrewNewton Actually, it's a QR CODE.
I believe I'll stick with my Ender 3 Pro. =)
I can't find this answer: Does the first layer take a really long time or is my nozzle clogged? Its seems like the feeder won't feed filament and there is no filament coming out. Is that how the first layer is? This is a really hard hobby.
Nozzle too close to the print bed means the filament cant come out. When the height is correct the first layer lines should be slightly flattened and stuck to the bed.
I can’t correctly dial the eccentrics on the rollers (the ones closer to the Z lead screw in particular). Can you give some hint?
What's preventing adjustment? Probably only need to the right hand end of the cross bar.
Andrew Newton seems like the eccentric toward the Z screws don’t have enough wiggle. Or the vertical estruded rails are not perfectly square because form top to bottom I can feel a different tension of the rollers. Need to unscrew a littlebit the whole strutture, and see if tightening again will help.
version 1.15 is already out of the software if you update it to that you won't have the issue of turning off the 3d printer to read the sd
I saw that but needed to do the video before any possible firmware upgrade issues.
Hello Andrew when I export my files from tinkercad to cura but it does not move any motors or prints but when I print the files already on the sad card it prints fine so I really appreciate help🙏
And what version of cura do you use?
Are you generating a GCODE file in Cura then copying to the SD card, or trying to print from Cura? I only use the SD card and whatever the latest Cura version is.
What speed do you use for the printer
Default speeds, they do seem very fast
use ender3 profile in cura to fix 7:21 min
add printer use Creality Ender3
print smooth
It doesn't have silent steper driver, right?
Correct, need the Pro version I think
Nice & Informative... Thanks Mate Butt Unless It Could Print Me Some Really Strong Usable Teeth/Bridges I Don't Know That It Would Be Any Much Use To Me??? LOL
Andy should replace the filament with silicone and print a Pamela Anderson.
If you print some teeth go with some werewolf teeth.
What laptop.do you have??
MacBook Pro 2011