Stick with it, you do not want to go back from boost! I think the cheapest route for you would be to go with an inline pro block. Your head is probably fine. Been down this road and I have a nearly identical setup.
Yeah I'm going to pull the head off and inspect further. How is the sleeved inline pro block cooling wise? I know theres less of a cooling surface when you go sleeved
@@CanyonTuned I am using the Griptech 3.6 pulley wheel for about 13psi. I have a custom oil cooler that is fairly large. I can manage to drive down the tail of the dragon (11 miles) in 90 degree July heat with no issues. For track, you might want a little more oil cooling, if you keep to 15 minute sessions with a good cool down after, you will be okay with temps. To mitigate this, I am considering the improved racing mhx-520 cooler or making custom v mount using the sos race cooler and oil cooler in front of the regular radiator something like ">|" if that makes sense. One more thing, while you are in there, get ARP head studs, and find a reputable machine shop to refresh the head. I found a shop in the Atlanta area that did a great job for about 600$ for a full refresh. The block and refresh you are looking at about 5k and you will have a car that is able to make over 500hp if you really wanted. If you go to K series, you will have to spend that much to get all of the little bits to make it work and wont have your supercharger anymore.
Stay with the F series, you already have the supercharger, the ecu and it will be cheaper to fix it and stick with it then going K24.. once you open it up and see what the damage is you can make a better decision.. But i will say stay F series and Upgrade what broke.
Shame to hear this news, however with building cars this seems inevitable sometimes. I would say stick to either supercharger or turbocharger because as reliable and linear NA power would be, you cant go back from boost! wishing you best of luck with getting it back on the track. will be waiting on an update... take your time.
Grab an OTC 5603 Deep Well Connector for compression testing. The hose was always a pain. (Apparently YT doesn't like links in comments anymore.) Anything in the oil or coolant?
I still have to drain the oil but coolant looks perfect. I'm hoping it's just a valve that isn't sealing. That's why I think I'm getting cross flow between cylinders on the intake side
Do you know if the engine was ever opened up before? If it was then you could be experiencing issues from a bad build. If not then you might have a valve or two that's sticking or way out of adjustment. As for the oil on your coil packs that's a clear sign that the spark plug tube seals are shot. Eventually that oil will kill your coils and cause misfires.
You're totally wrong but it's ok. One of the #2 exhaust valves weren't sealing. Upon further inspection it had a worn valve guide. This caused the cylinder head to pressurize. Had nothing to do with sparkplug seals, they were just replaced. The symptom was pressurizing the crankcase/head blowing out the dipstick not just oil going everywhere
That's a good question, I did just see Link released a plug and play ecu for K engines. I could probably just swap out the daughter board into the K parent board but haven't researched it much@@civicpride1986
@@CanyonTuned Sounds good.. i was wondering because i will also be going Links ecu on my s2k and if i end up on the same situation needing to replace engine or something similar i would like to know if the ecu will work, that will be one thing less to worry about if it does.
@@CanyonTuned Have you watched your content??? It's like you can believe it's blown... Nah... it can't be blown... its shouldn't be blown... but it's down compression on 2nd but it's shouldn't be blown... IT'S NOT Blown but I'll keep double triple quadruple check it's NOT blown... buts its blown no no no it's not blown... Then are you a Mechanic I ask or engine builder or tuner??? Like really... watch your content and ask yourself if it sounds like a broken record? I didn't miss any point of your headline... Did I Blow Up The S2000!!!
@@mrjk0890 it's very costly to tear into a motor. So I'd like to find out as much as I can on the surface, that includes triple verifying...since a lot of these compression testers can't be trusted either. Maybe you should stop being so salty and watch someone else's videos if you have such a short attention span. I test, test again, and verify my results. Also s2000s blow out dipsticks all the time...healthy N/A engines. So I needed to make sure there was ACTUALLY an engine issue.
Stick with it, you do not want to go back from boost! I think the cheapest route for you would be to go with an inline pro block. Your head is probably fine. Been down this road and I have a nearly identical setup.
Yeah I'm going to pull the head off and inspect further. How is the sleeved inline pro block cooling wise? I know theres less of a cooling surface when you go sleeved
@@CanyonTuned I am using the Griptech 3.6 pulley wheel for about 13psi. I have a custom oil cooler that is fairly large. I can manage to drive down the tail of the dragon (11 miles) in 90 degree July heat with no issues. For track, you might want a little more oil cooling, if you keep to 15 minute sessions with a good cool down after, you will be okay with temps. To mitigate this, I am considering the improved racing mhx-520 cooler or making custom v mount using the sos race cooler and oil cooler in front of the regular radiator something like ">|" if that makes sense.
One more thing, while you are in there, get ARP head studs, and find a reputable machine shop to refresh the head. I found a shop in the Atlanta area that did a great job for about 600$ for a full refresh. The block and refresh you are looking at about 5k and you will have a car that is able to make over 500hp if you really wanted. If you go to K series, you will have to spend that much to get all of the little bits to make it work and wont have your supercharger anymore.
Stay with the F series, you already have the supercharger, the ecu and it will be cheaper to fix it and stick with it then going K24.. once you open it up and see what the damage is you can make a better decision.. But i will say stay F series and Upgrade what broke.
Problem is if the cylinder wall is scored its toast. I'm hoping it just needs a valve job or something simple
@@CanyonTuned if thats the case, aftermarket sleeves and pistons and rods and should be better then before.. but lets hope its just a valve..
Shame to hear this news, however with building cars this seems inevitable sometimes. I would say stick to either supercharger or turbocharger because as reliable and linear NA power would be, you cant go back from boost! wishing you best of luck with getting it back on the track. will be waiting on an update... take your time.
Great point!
Grab an OTC 5603 Deep Well Connector for compression testing. The hose was always a pain. (Apparently YT doesn't like links in comments anymore.)
Anything in the oil or coolant?
I still have to drain the oil but coolant looks perfect. I'm hoping it's just a valve that isn't sealing. That's why I think I'm getting cross flow between cylinders on the intake side
Do you know if the engine was ever opened up before? If it was then you could be experiencing issues from a bad build. If not then you might have a valve or two that's sticking or way out of adjustment. As for the oil on your coil packs that's a clear sign that the spark plug tube seals are shot. Eventually that oil will kill your coils and cause misfires.
You're totally wrong but it's ok. One of the #2 exhaust valves weren't sealing. Upon further inspection it had a worn valve guide. This caused the cylinder head to pressurize. Had nothing to do with sparkplug seals, they were just replaced. The symptom was pressurizing the crankcase/head blowing out the dipstick not just oil going everywhere
@@CanyonTuned Oh ok. So what's the plan?
@@RolanTHUNDER the motor is completely fixed, just needed new valve guides. Good as new
love the s2k diy an track vids
that sucks ass man, hopefully a valve issue. good luck.
I thought it was pretty common for the S2K to blow out the dipstick? Mine barely holds itself in.
It is. But mine has excessive pressure in the valve cover. My car had a bad valve guide
K swap time!
If it's not a valve, definitely
Question, if you end up going K swap will the Links ecu you currently have work for the k swap motor?
That's a good question, I did just see Link released a plug and play ecu for K engines. I could probably just swap out the daughter board into the K parent board but haven't researched it much@@civicpride1986
@@CanyonTuned Sounds good.. i was wondering because i will also be going Links ecu on my s2k and if i end up on the same situation needing to replace engine or something similar i would like to know if the ecu will work, that will be one thing less to worry about if it does.
Absolutely annoying to watch!!! Its blown the 1st minute it's blowing the dipstick out.
You missed the whole point of the video buddy. I'm trying to pinpoint why.
@@CanyonTuned Have you watched your content??? It's like you can believe it's blown... Nah... it can't be blown... its shouldn't be blown... but it's down compression on 2nd but it's shouldn't be blown... IT'S NOT Blown but I'll keep double triple quadruple check it's NOT blown... buts its blown no no no it's not blown... Then are you a Mechanic I ask or engine builder or tuner??? Like really... watch your content and ask yourself if it sounds like a broken record? I didn't miss any point of your headline... Did I Blow Up The S2000!!!
@@mrjk0890 it's very costly to tear into a motor. So I'd like to find out as much as I can on the surface, that includes triple verifying...since a lot of these compression testers can't be trusted either. Maybe you should stop being so salty and watch someone else's videos if you have such a short attention span. I test, test again, and verify my results. Also s2000s blow out dipsticks all the time...healthy N/A engines. So I needed to make sure there was ACTUALLY an engine issue.