Wow thank you so much! I’m learning and your video made things so easy to understand. Often times most videos tend to over complicate things. After watching your video I’m able to understand those other complicated topics much better now
Thanks for these videos. Im having hard time to keep my car running on idle in open loop and only by pumping gas it will not stall and this video help a bunch to understand it. I thought that it could be vacuum leak but I try to change some things to see if it will make difference. I will try this and see if it works! In closed loop it runs as it should.
Yeah I'm always excited to play with new platforms and share my findings along the way! I haven't decided if I want to run another link on the k24 or haltech but either way more videos to come!
@@CanyonTuned I was thinking the link for the s2000 was not going to work on a k24.. they should sell an adapter to make it work, without having to buy a complete new k24 link ecu.
I'll have to contact them. If I can take the daughter board off and they can give me the main board for a k24 that would be ideal. That way I don't have to sell my setup
Great videos mate. I noticed you are running the Link software on a Mac. What are you using to run it? I keep bashing my head against a wall because I am too cheap to spend money on a laptop just for tuning.
Thank you for the video, I learned a lot, you even helped solve some of my drivability issues. I do have a question regarding boost vs timing though. I know you said a rule of thumb is to take .3 degrees per kpa in boost, but does that actually work out in the real world? For instance, for a car running 25psi (well over 200kpa) would you actually pull 30 to 50 degrees out in relation your 100kpa starting point (say 30 degrees)? I know guys are running relatively high boost on pump gas but I wouldnt think they would have 0 or even negative timing advance to obtain that. Just wondering if you or anyone else that reads this had any insight or experience with the topic as im planing on running about 20psi on my gt2871r Audi 1.8t after I do some supporting mods and im trying to keep my engine safe. If not, great video man, keep it up.
It's a complicated answer honestly. It really has to do with compression ratio too. The lower the compression ratio of the motor, usually the more timing the motor wants N/A. So like a car running 20psi of boost in your example will start at more like 40-45 degrees of timing at 100kpa since the motor would probably be running 8:1 compression. That's why that megasquirt table builder kinda helps too because there's a lot of variables including what kind of fuel you're running
@@CanyonTuned Appreciate the responce. I did try the megasquirt table builder and even imported it into tunerstudio to get a better visualization of it. good place to start like you said. thanks
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.4 (4/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/d3l5rxl5CVo/mqdefault.jpg)
what a legend. Thanks for everything dude!
Wow thank you so much! I’m learning and your video made things so easy to understand. Often times most videos tend to over complicate things. After watching your video I’m able to understand those other complicated topics much better now
Glad it was helpful!
I’m using this knowledge to apply it to my Haltech ECU.
Yup! Very similar process between all standalone ecus
Thanks sir basis lesson step
Thanks for these videos. Im having hard time to keep my car running on idle in open loop and only by pumping gas it will not stall and this video help a bunch to understand it. I thought that it could be vacuum leak but I try to change some things to see if it will make difference. I will try this and see if it works! In closed loop it runs as it should.
Sounds like you need to tweak your fuel table and possibly cold start table
Thank you for this extremely valuable information. liked and subbed
Thank you!
Great video bro
Thanks for the video.. Well explain.. hopefully once you go k24 and haltech 1500 you can continue those tuning videos.. you explain well..
Yeah I'm always excited to play with new platforms and share my findings along the way! I haven't decided if I want to run another link on the k24 or haltech but either way more videos to come!
@@CanyonTuned I was thinking the link for the s2000 was not going to work on a k24.. they should sell an adapter to make it work, without having to buy a complete new k24 link ecu.
I'll have to contact them. If I can take the daughter board off and they can give me the main board for a k24 that would be ideal. That way I don't have to sell my setup
@@CanyonTuned keep us updated on that..
Thanks, well presented
Thank you very much, what a nice explanation, but I want to ask you if it is possible for you to do a live tuning for us
I could but unfortunately I just sold the link ecu off of my s2000. Once I get another unit for my k24 I can
OK I'm looking forward to watching❤❤❤
@canyonTuned these videos have helped so much. Can I DM you about some questions I have?
I no longer offer free support, but you can reach out via my Instagram and I'll be happy to answer questions for a small fee
Great videos mate. I noticed you are running the Link software on a Mac. What are you using to run it? I keep bashing my head against a wall because I am too cheap to spend money on a laptop just for tuning.
I use an emulator but it's only to make the TH-cam videos, I have a pc to actually tune. The emulator is way too slow
@@CanyonTuned Thanks mate. Good to know.
Sick video thank u
good info man, thanks.
Thank you for the video, I learned a lot, you even helped solve some of my drivability issues. I do have a question regarding boost vs timing though. I know you said a rule of thumb is to take .3 degrees per kpa in boost, but does that actually work out in the real world? For instance, for a car running 25psi (well over 200kpa) would you actually pull 30 to 50 degrees out in relation your 100kpa starting point (say 30 degrees)? I know guys are running relatively high boost on pump gas but I wouldnt think they would have 0 or even negative timing advance to obtain that. Just wondering if you or anyone else that reads this had any insight or experience with the topic as im planing on running about 20psi on my gt2871r Audi 1.8t after I do some supporting mods and im trying to keep my engine safe. If not, great video man, keep it up.
It's a complicated answer honestly. It really has to do with compression ratio too. The lower the compression ratio of the motor, usually the more timing the motor wants N/A. So like a car running 20psi of boost in your example will start at more like 40-45 degrees of timing at 100kpa since the motor would probably be running 8:1 compression. That's why that megasquirt table builder kinda helps too because there's a lot of variables including what kind of fuel you're running
@@CanyonTuned Appreciate the responce. I did try the megasquirt table builder and even imported it into tunerstudio to get a better visualization of it. good place to start like you said. thanks