How to Deep Clean/Decontaminate Car Paint!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2023
- @CarCraftAutoDetailing 👍Please Like the Video 🔔 Subscribe 😀Enjoy
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Products used in video: (items may be updated to what I currently use/recommend)
🇺🇸U.S.A. 🇨🇦Canada 🇪🇺Europe Links:
Hand Detailing Light: bit.ly/3ClKqYS
Masking Plastic: amzn.to/3s8Lzkj
Masking Tape: amzn.to/3STKaGv
Pressure Washer: amzn.to/3RSDGpT
Pressure Washer Gun: amzn.to/3VPEdw3
Foam Cannon: amzn.to/3CMFLj1
Extension Lance: amzn.to/3To64Sv
Alkaline Car Soap: parkscarcare.net/products/env...
Acid Car Soap: bit.ly/3yAK92f
Microfibre Wash Mitt: amzn.to/3SYIc7A
Decontamination Chemical: parkscarcare.net/products/env...
Clay Towel: parkscarcare.net/products/wax...
Drying Cloth: amzn.to/3Tkw5Sq
IPA Panel Wipe: amzn.to/3Vhi21H
Microfibre Cloths: amzn.to/3RPs7js
🇦🇺 Australia Links:
Hand Detailing Light: www.waxit.com.au/products/sca...
Masking Plastic: www.waxit.com.au/products/uni...
Masking Tape: www.waxit.com.au/products/car...
Pressure Washer: ebay.us/Q0Ohes
Pressure Washer Gun: www.waxit.com.au/products/mtm...
Foam Cannon: www.waxit.com.au/products/mtm...
Pressure Washer Lance: www.waxit.com.au/products/mtm...
Alkaline Car Soap: www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-...
Acid Car Soap: www.waxit.com.au/products/car...
Microfibre Wash Mitt: www.waxit.com.au/products/car...
Decontamination Chemical: www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-...
Clay Towel: www.waxit.com.au/products/eco...
Drying Cloth: www.waxit.com.au/products/sup...
IPA Panel Wipe: www.waxit.com.au/products/car...
Microfibre Cloths: www.waxit.com.au/products/bre...
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#cardetailing #carcraftautodetailing - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Honey wake up, Sandro posted a new video!
😄
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing hi Bro do you like more wash mitts or sponge like soft 99 or big red sponge lake country ? Im asking becoze in Europe Poland pro detailers recomend to use high quality sponge 🧽 are they realy better ? Thx for answer.
@lucasa6088 my personal preference is a good (there’s also not so good ones) microfibre wash mitt, I just find it removes dirt easier and faster while being safe.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks for answering m8, that's what I feel too. Gd wash mitts are better. I can send you a link to tests from mx nowicki do you want to see it ? Take care
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingth-cam.com/video/Ceu07-bT2jY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rkdrRgYIxLz6eqvh
It's amazing how much gloss those particles were hiding.
Sandro is a mad scientist when it comes to detailing!
By far and away the most informative detailing channel out there. Thanks so much for all the knowledge you share. Wishing you the best!
By far the best detailing page on TH-cam...
Wow. Enlightening. Didn't realise how much improvement just cleaning could make.
Many LSPs fail or don't last as long as they should because people don't undertake this process in advance of their application. A very helpful and informative video, Sandro. Cheers.
Hey mate, long time no see ot hear, i hope that your business is going as you wish and that your Family and yourself are all well.
Thank you posting this work and as we all know when it comes to paint correction Sandro is your man.
Be well mate and thanks for sharing for all of us.
That's one fancy bucket and bet that's a primo price for that. I wouldn't use it but maybe hang it as wall art. Lots of those chems look like some of my shampoo products, I'd be afraid to mix them up and get a scalp iron treatment may do me some good
Hello from Brisbane
Another great lesson with simple clarification of all the details, thank you our teacher Sandro!))) Cheers from cold again Sweden (Tar-X is prepared for winter washes) )))
Pan the Organizer listed you as a channel to watch so just subscribed.
This guy is cool
That 50/50 post-decon shot was WILD. Huge improvement.
Brilliant Sandro. After all these years watching your videos, you still inspire me to try to do my detailing better. Thanks mate, really appreciate your work.
Good job Sandro, very helpfull video !
Great guide, Sandro. Keep it up.
Fantastic video There might be more than one way to decontaminating paint but Sandros iis the right way The only way Every video you just drop bombs of info on use Just drop the mic boom more info keep them coming IN Sandro we Trust
Hilarious 80 grit sound of your gloved hand on the paint surface.
Hey Sandro, another amazing video...Thanks!
Great video Sandro 😎
Excellent video as usual Sandro!
Great Content as Usual!!
It's awesome what a good wash and decon can make to a weathered paint before correction 🔥
Wow ! What a difference once again a fantastic video by the king of detailing! Thank you for this awesome video Sandro well done great achievement ! 👏🏻
There is no way you could wash and clean a panel...then not want to buff and polish it. My ocd thanks you for the bonus footage lol
🙂
Great video
Hi sandro, is it ok to use a clay towel without the tar removal step or is it gonna harm the towel?
Also, I would like to thank you for all these amazing videos with so much knowledge sharing. The world needs more people like you.
Shampoo, clay towel, wax is fine. The iron-x is mainly used if your car is 3+ years old and you live in a climate that uses road salt in the winter (which causes those orange 'oxidation' spots you see on the lower half of the paint)
@@zenon3021new cars can come with iron fallout, pretty sure plain old water will cause rust.
@georgedavis2443 appreciate the kind feedback mate and I haven’t personally seen any tar deposits attach to or harm any of my clay towels, having said that if I do see significant tar deposits I do firstly remove them with a tar remover.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the support!
Absolutely love your channel, as it’s my favorite all-time detailing channel out there.
I have an off-topic question,
What do you prefer and why, CaRpro Reload 2.0, or Nova Jet?
Really nice to hear that, thanks.
Personally I do lean more towards Nova Jet as it tends to last longer with better resistance to cleaning chemicals and has better hydrophobic behaviour. But Reload 2.0 is still a fantastic sealant, a little glossier and slicker.
Nice explanation!
Sandro, do you have a video on just repairing a small light scratch, say 2cm long, rather then doing a whole panel. I’m not really sure if I can just do the small spot and whether it will stand out if the whole panel isn’t done. Car is 2 months old. Thank you.
I’m not sure I have a video specifically showing that but the process is really the same as correcting the whole panel - it’s typically a case of once you do correct an area that looks better, you tend to want to do the whole panel.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok, thanks so much for responding. That’s what my husband thought. I’ll get him onto it! 😆
So how would you change or adjust this process for say "exfoliating" a coated car where a paint correction isn't the ultimate goal?
Not speaking for Sandro, but I’d consider stopping at clay-barring. But these days, just about anything you do is technically going to scratch the coating/clearcoat. There are compounds that barely remove anything while adding incredible shine, but that is still ‘correction’.
I recommend Griots Perfecting Cream with their yellow pad.
Alkaline pre wash- acid contact, iron and Tar remover- water spot remover as needed. If coating is still decent after that top it off with a top coat of sio2 sealant. If it's still a little rough CarPro Essence plus. Although I'd recommend by hand and as needed as I've had it diminish some coatings.
@coolwrld302 after the alkaline pre-soak and acid hand wash I’d add separate iron and water spot remover chemical treatments, if I saw tar deposits also a tar remover and skip the mechanical claying process. I did I decided video on that as well: th-cam.com/video/vWYyw-yKM3A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=evdfqsEg13YSPJGH
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you sir will have to check that video out.
What do you think traditional clay bar vs clay mitt (not perforated)
Hi Sandro, love your work as always. Quick question about Carpro Dquarts Go which i've just applied... Have read around and noticed carpro state that it is slightly more vulnerable to water spots. Can it be topped with something like reload for extra help with fighting the water spotting/do you have and recommendations on what I could top Dquarts with? Hope to see some testing on channel soon. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and score some time off mate, cheers
Thanks mate and also wishing you a Merry Christmas.
Honestly most of my testing has been with DQPRO and even then, I do tend to use it as a base layer and top it with CQPRO/Finest- so I would only be speculating here. But I would guess that once DQGO is fully cured (3-4wks later) there shouldn’t be any issues in applying Reload over it, maybe even after 24-48hrs you could use Release to protect it during those first few weeks.
Great video sandro is a clay towel just as good as the real thing and how often should you renew the cloth
Thanks and synthetic clay has definitely gotten much better in terms of being more thorough and less aggressive, but just like traditional clay there’s good and no so good examples of it around. I personally find synthetic clay almost lasts indefinitely if you take care of it, so very long life span.
Have you seen the new Rupes?
Yes I’ve seen a video on showcasing it and will be very keen to try it!
would of liked to have seen the panel as a whole, with a section you didn't polish, after you've done everything just to show what it looked like without decontamination, and without polishing.
Hello, I have a question, my eraser fell and everything ran out.. I don't have access to eraser, is it okay to use a silicon remover?thanks!
I’ve never used a silicone remover for this process so I’m not sure
Hi Sandro, I just started watching a couple of your videos. I want to help my 2020 x3 m40 paint. would this work to remove tiny orange red leaf stains from my bmw? My darn borough leaf collector spews dust and it landed on my car wet. The car is white and I foam washed it, and scrubbed it with the mesh side of the sponge but it doesnt come off without serious thumb force which is not possible to do for the whole car. I tried wetting and using clay bar, my clay bar doesn't take it off either. Would a cut polish take this off?
Typically I would try to firstly remove those deposits during a decontamination such as this. A good synthetic clay can usually lift more suborn particles than traditional clay and if you can use it with a chemical lubricant like Nv Purify it does tend to make that process more successful. Having said that sometimes some particles don’t cooperate! So yes, I would say that using light compounding/polishing abrasives should in fact remove those stains/particles if it’s not happening during the wash/decon process.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Great! Thank you so much, at least I'm on the right track. Now is polish the second part of paint correction or can that count instead of waxing or ceramic coating?
@two_inline_sixes compounding/polishing is all about removing defects prior to sealing/coating which all about protecting the finish: maybe this video will also help: th-cam.com/video/6tepA3wjPbY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xtkscw5PCd6CzU0L
I have a 6 month old white GTI that I’ve only been using tons of Turtle Wax Quick Wax on.
I’m happy with the condition of the paint, but want to do a decontamination wash & use NV Luster on it.
My question is: Do I need to use some sort of wax remover? Or is a really good, deep, wash good enough?
In most cases a great thorough decontamination wash process will break down existing waxes, but if you still see the water beading and the paint still feels slick you can use a wax and grease remover or even a APC/Degreaser to further break down and remove that wax.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing
Thank you! More questions - lol. I’m going to use NV Luster and/or Boost. Should I use Luster & then Boost? Or just Boost? Can either or both be used on glass & plastics?
I live on a dirt road so I wipe my car down 3 or 4 days a week. Do you have a suggestion on what would be best for constant quick wipe downs?
Thank you sooooo much !!!!! You’re an absolutely wonderful communicator. It’s a true gift.
Also, I’m a 60 year old female who has fallen in love with my car for the very first time. So I truly appreciate any & all advice.
That’s really nice to hear! I would tend to suggest the newer Boost V2 as it’s quicker and easy to apply as well as being more durable, and you can use it on paint, plastics and metal - though for glass I would tend to recommend Carpro Clarity Phobic as it’s simply better and less problematic than car paint sealants for glass. If you already have Lustre you can still absolutely use it as a base later for added gloss, and then top it with Boost V2 as often as you like.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing
Thank you !!!! Last question, promise.
I’m trying to get my nerve up to do a cleaning polish - like what you did for the white Mazda. What pad did you use? And whatever it was, should I use something even softer just because I’ve never done this before?
No, I haven’t purchased yet. So I’ll just go with Boost V2.
Yes I’d recommend doing a very light polish if it’s your first time, and after that you can certainly step up to something slightly more aggressive once you get the hang of it.
A great starting combination would be something like Nv Finesse Polish on the Shine Mate foam polishing pad
( www.waxit.com.au/products/shine-mate-black-diamond-orange-foam-universal-pad-4-6-7?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX )-
it will be extremely safe and remove next to no clear coat. Doing the whole car you should try and work with about 3 pads and keep rotating them after every few section throughout the process. Just note that the 7” pads are for a 6” backing plate and likewise the 6” pads are for a 5” backing plate. Hope that helps 🙂
I would have loved you to polish
Did you watch the extra bonus footage at the end 🙂