SECRETS They DON'T Want You To Know - Do Not Pre-Rinse Your Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ย. 2023
- Everyone says to pre-rinse your car - but is it actually safer? These results may shock you and have you second guessing your car wash process. With more secrets they don't want you to know, I discover why it might be better if you do no pre-rinse your car before washing it.
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Im a mobile detailer in Atlanta and for me, I do both (rinse vs. no rinse) depending on what's on the vehicle. For instance, for most normal dirt, traffic gunk etc I will just foam with my pre-wash soap directly. For trucks and SUVs with heavier mud or something like that, I will pre-rinse first, then hit it with a pre-wash foam. I also tend to let the pre-wash foam dwell a bit longer (5ish minutes) and that also seems to help a bit more.
thanks
I’m not a pro, just a car guy thats been detailing on and off on the side for 15 years but this is exactly what I have landed on as a best practice for me as well
These comments kill me. Everyone knows more than the next person. Imagine if everyone just did what worked for them? I never pre-rinse, only cause someone told me that pre-rinsing can cause loose dirt to scratch the paint. Foam, rinse, foam, contact wash with 5 or 6 wash mitts, no buckets works for me. Just do what works for you.
💯 But tbh there are a lot of people still learning or new to this so info is important to them to figure out what works for them
It is annoying but also informative at the same time.. sometimes you learn from people and some times especially men let their ego get in the way.
@autodetailingpodcast with this product in particular should you be re waxing afterwards?
yes, i would. @@Boxsta_57
I get your point but at the same time, we should 100% be striving for sceintific and accurate information. Like I'm a very objectiuve and rational person right. and with that POV in mind, my view of the whole detailing world is so much is based on gimmicky and marketing instead of actual proof or data and it really sucks. But yeah I guess at the end of the day you are right to people should just do what works for them but yeah
keep up the honest, hard work, and straight forwardness. I've been following you since covid started and got back into detailing my 11 year old car. Some companies just make stuff to sell more that we don't need.
I think this also shows that unless you're willing to break the bank on pre rinse products and waste half a day foaming and dwelling multiple times, you're just as well off washing your car like you always have. I just pre rinse and use a two bucket wash process. No big deal. Simple green is a great spot soak product for anything stuck to your car. Sap, tar, bugs, whatever. It'll safely break it down - and it's cheap. "Extreme" Simple Green is $25/ gal. and you can dilute it 5:1 so you effectively get 5 gal for $25....and when you're done your whole car smells like Jagermeister :)
🤮
No professional is using simple green. I had a truck come to my shop with products you won't find at autozone or walmart
I love the effort that you put into your videos very inspiring and informative, I used to do a pre wash but I haven’t done it in a long time I just let the chemicals do there job lol, I have one question for you, if you will indulge me I find it hard to get a decent form lance what type you you recommend, keep up the great 👍
Thanks for the video ! I've wondered this before myself.
Hello, thank you for the video snd sharing!
If you could please maybe do a review on the new Adams Strip Wash?
I heard some good things about it.
Looks like they have a newer version. But here’s a vid I did on the Adams strip wash at the time - th-cam.com/video/A3V3Drv6Njk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=y8yVHVfT0GMqReL0
We’ve been testing and developing our product line with this idea in mind, Jim. Glad to see someone else is experimenting. Better results have been with a high pH foam (organic contaminants) topped with a low pH foam (inorganic contaminants) and then rinse. Topped with a foam drying aid and it’s 😘. I wish I would’ve gotten video of it, but I just put it to the test on a vehicle yesterday that has no coating, traveled from Illinois to Texas and was covered in road salt. Came out even better than I expected. Is it a timesaver? Debatable.
Love watching the progression of your craft buddy
Thank you - I appreciate the support.
Bilt Hamber Touchless or Auto Foam are my go to products, tried and tested and safe! Difference between pre rinse or foam is the change in PIR if you pre rinse. Also depends if it's road grime, dust or mud. Mud you want to get wet and then rinse off before any touching!
BH Touchless is a great product. But it’s very alkaline. (13 or 14, I forget which) so it’s very hard on wax and ceramic coatings.
Hey Jimbo! After watching a video on car wash foams from Pan, I tried a higher PH soap from G Techniq and used it without a pre-rinse. I would think with a pre-rinse it would dilute the product so I just shot it straight on the truck. I was amazed at how much dirt was removed from my truck that was filthy from the classic rain induced crude on the sides. I then foamed with my regular PH neutral snow foam and then did a contact wash. My other pre-wash I used from Ethos never cleaned that stuff off the side of the truck or cars. Was wondering the PH of this cleaner. Sounds like it will be pretty high with you comparing it to an APC.
Enjoy your holidays
I've not used this - I do however use Purple Power Boat RV and Vehicle wash in the same way - as a semi aggressive "strip wash" about once or twice a season or about 4-6 times a year depending on how much road grime and "contaminated" the surface is - in those cases I make sure to rinse my wash mitt after each section and inspect it for things like bugs, grit crap like that and only use the mitt on one car before it gets washed. Like others have pointed out "touchless" really doesn't work except if the car hasn't been driven much and most of what is on the paint is just dust (no road grime)....
My opinion is that one should evaluate both the level and kind of dirt, and choose prewash products and methode accordingly. In the end it's all about being comfortable to start the contact wash after the prewash
well said, 100% agree
I'm an absolute newbie DIY'er with my first black vehicle and am glad to read Your comment about being comfortable with what you are pushing against the finish. I thought that maybe I was taking the process too far, but I get it. TY.
Hope to see a part 2 with this product washing with a mitt how well it works plus up in the northeast we are looking for something that will get the salt off alongside all road film etc. Trying to find a perfect recipe for winter in the rust belt . thanks for sharing and looking forward to future videos
great idea!
Love your videos, I was wondering if you have used stars & stripes from ChemX
I have not. But someone else recommend that brand so I’m gonna have to try it out.
Hey Jimbo, what happened to the Cerakote ceramic coating review? I feel like I finally found an honest review and then boom it gets taken down. Did they make you do that? I love your videos btw keep up the great work!!
I will eventually say what happened. But for now I’m gonna let people use their imagination. My honest reviews won’t stop tho. I’m re planning that video.
Great Information. I recently acquired a black pickup. The first black vehicle I've ever owned and for me, keeping it as scratch-free as possible has been the stuff my nightmares are made of 😄. I've watch a bunch of videos, including yours ( Thank You for sharing this info ) ! and my newbie method of touch-free maintenance washes has been: No pre-wash (I didn't want to dilute the product ) and meguiars gold out of a cheap harbor freight foam cannon and leaf blower drying.... This seems to remove enough rainy-day road film to freshen up the truck good enough for me.
I also bought 6 soft wash mitts to manually remove dirt with. For those washes, I use the same Foam/Dwell/Rinse method, then add a second foam before hand washing. So far I'm happy with the results, but am still learning.
I can't wait for spring to come, so I can try my hand at a ceramic job. I think that the Wash Chems Pro 100 Touchless Car Wash might be a good first step prep for that ( but will learn more before I jump in ).
Black is a ton of work. But seems like you’ve been meeting the challenge
I have a new 2024 black Chevy Trail Boss. What works is rinse, hand wash with Turtle Wax Ceramic Cleaner/Sealer, and leaf blower dry. No scratches and then I apply F11 PRO for deep shine and protection. For speed and more scratch resistance I am going to try Turtle Wax Pure Shine via cannon.
Yvan explained this method where water is an abrasive and water carved out the Grand Canyon. Personally I think applying a prerinse to a dry car is the safest method. A prerinse can be rinseless wash, a soap, or a stronger cleaner as long as the product offers lubrication when rinsing the product off the car. Thank you for this video over a controversial subject.
Yessir! I always pre soak with diy rinseless wash let it dwell, and then rinse. Then I will foam the vehicle and do a contact wash with either incredible suds or with Rinseless. Then final rinse and use rinseless wash as a drying aid
@@DiamondDetailingBuzzdiluted 256:1?
You got it right with the only exception being that water is not an abrasive, but it is a solvent. At high pressures it can act as an abrasive though. Solvents can dissolve stuff and by adding soap or rinseless, you make the water softer and less prone to dissolve and actually increase it's ability to break surface tension and release stuck dirt.
Yeah every since Yvan said that he lost a lot of credibility from my POV. People have been rinsing off their cars for plenty of times with no other product with zero reported marring.
Water isn't a lubricant?
I saw a suggestion on another channel about foaming the vehicle before the pre-rinse, and I found it works really well.
WOLFGANG WATERLESS WASH ADDED TO FOAM SOAP..Makes water WETTER
The soap used which is Wash Chems Pro 100 is high in alkaline, for the condition of the paint prior washing i would opt for a lower ph aka acidic carwash soap because the dirt is mostly inorganic.
I'm no pro but i think this is text book and it's not voiced out enough. I found something very similar in a dishwasher guide where they say not to rinse off plates as there should be a rough surface for the soap to hang on to. Great job!
Simple but good test jimbo. What is that water sprayer. Thanks.
Thanks! Just an electric pressure washer.
This is probably the same type of cleaner we use in our shop on our semi’s. we work mostly off-road and it does wonders when you’re muddy. You can literally foam the truck before a rinse and this stuff will get most of the grime off. I use it on my pick up but it can remove coatings if they’re not applied properly. I use turtle wax graphene and it hasn’t stripped it yet.
Nice! Thanks for sharing.
I prefer to foam first and then after some dwelling time rinse the foam off before I go over the car with ONR and an MF mitt. At the end of the day, what works well for you is the best approach for you.
💯
What sprayer does he use when rinsing/prerinsing the car?
I just bought that MJJC 3.0 foam cannon and it did pretty good for how it came stock but I’m going to try the other orifice out to see how foamy the soap gets. I noticed if I dump in a lot of soap it will foam good but like in your video it calls for a lot of soap but yours sprayed really nice. I’m also using a gas pressure washer with the required 2.4 gpm. I always prerinse but I wonder if that breaks down the soap quicker and reduces the shaving cream look.
Yes I found that it dilutes the soap a little and doesn’t look as thick when applied dry. I foam, rinse, foam, contact wash, rinse, dry.
Given the option, always use the 1.1 foam cannon orifice for more foam.
I own commercial self serve and automatic car washes and can confirm that pre-rinsing impairs the touch free cleaning process. The product has to be strong enough to break the bond of road film (never heard it called traffic film in my segment of the industry) and by wetting the surface before application you are essentially diluting the product. It appears what you have is the same or very similar product we use in automated car washes. You could buy the products we use in 5 gallon containers for around $100-$200 depending on strength. Many modern sealants can handle high ph wash products. I tested jescar powerlock and if I recall it still beaded well at over ten washes
Good info. Thank you!
What is the product called?
@@biggerthanus7053 The industry term for product that we use is called "high pH presoak"
I’m really curious if there’s a water drain on that floor???
HAS to be. Each 'tile' LOOKS like a grate and there's no water puddling up. There is a SUB FLOOR with one or more floor drains. I'm not a floor guy but I find it more amazing as to how the visible grate floor can support a CAR.
So what your test just taught me is the purpkse of pre-rinse is to remove heavy materials that could scratch the paint and clear coat.
Straight foaming is fine, but you would need to do it twice to ensure you dont scratch the clear coat and paint.
So either way, the time is the same. Just make sure you micromit the car, othwerwise a lot of dirt will remain.
Great video! You may want to try the Chem X brand instead of the brand you used today. It’s been shown in numerous videos & in my experience gets better results. Appreciate your channel.
Will def try it. Thanks!
Hawaii Tim; you are accurate sir!
Heck yeah now we’re talkin😁👏❌
Reset is PH neutral, their alkaline soap is called lift which is made to be used as a pre wash. Other countries have been using pre washes for years in the US it just hasn’t seem to catch on as much. On extra dirty cars or even cars that I’ve corrected before and I’m trying to keep the paint as nice as possible I almost always use a high alkaline prewash let it sit for 5 mins then rinse, then either just bucket wash or foam again for the wash. Prewash also minimizes any chance of scratching in the rinsing process because it’s encapsulating the dirt that’s being forced off the surface by the pressure washer.
yep, Reset is ph neutral.
I have stopped pre rinses and now use a pH neutral cleaning soap like Griot's Surface wash which after trying so many others, simply dwells longer than all the others and after rinsing is the cleanest. Then I apply an alkaline product (sprayed, not foamed) let it dwell for a minute and refoam. The foam I use as additional lubricant for my contact wash with TW Pure. If it is a weekly maintenance wash. I stop after the he single foam application and blow dry.
Thanks for the info Jimbo! I saw this product on the internet recently and was wondering how well it worked or didn't work. Your video answered my questions! Thank you sir. That stuff looked like it foamed absolutely incredible! Nice and thick. I think you are right though, spray down the dry vehicle and let the product dwell on it for a couple minutes. The strip wash function is what I would probably use it for. Looks like it could really break down some dirt and road film. That stuff definitely seems to have some merit for certain situations. Not sure I would use it as a touchless wash because it would probably strip down whatever protection you have on it if it's not a full blown ceramic coating. It would probably strip wax and sealants right off so you could only use it in those situations when you wanted to strip off everything prior to a new product being applied. I had all sorts of hope that it would be a great product, but just from your short little test there, it didn't look like it did a very impressive job breaking down anything. Both sides looked almost identical. I'm sure it's probably a great soap, but it looks like it needs some agitation to work effectively as a soap anyway. I think i'll pass on this one and stick with something like Bilt Hamber Touchless.
thanks for watching!
I've been using this for over a year i spray it on dry from the bottom up let it sit as long as i can without letting it dry then rinse thoroughly also from the bottom up & it's safe for coated cars
Hey man, at the end of video I think you were trying to talk about Carpro Lift? Car pro reset is safe on sealants! Carpro lift is not. Either way it was a great video man.
i use koch chemie super foam or active foam, depends on the vehicle... i apply it with the ik e pro 12 foamer so the product does not get so diluted with the foam cannon, it only use 1oz to 1.5 gallon... i try to not rinse first if weather allows it.. works great. specially with the super foam, you can see eating the bugs when its dwelling, my cars are not ceramic so i dont worry about the stripping much, but other cars i use the active foam, safer for the coatings and does a real nice job as a pre rinse also..
Very interesting looks like a great product I have one question though can you use this as a contact wash as well? What do you think?
Yes definitely can.
@@autodetailingpodcast I am getting this, does it say what PH like 12+ you think? But for sure going to order this and try it. Awesome videos 😁
My train of thought (and it can be wrong) is i do not presoak. I foam on a dry car to encapsulate any fairly loose debris in the soap so it comes off easy when I soke it with the preasure washer so as to minimize any scratching. Then I foam it again then hand wash if needed. Not sure if it is good practice or not bit it makes since in my mind.
I am mobile detailer in HK and I will do both (pre rinse or not) depends on the particular situation. First I think the pre-rinse step is mainly to cool down the panel if iam going to wash a warm car or just under direct sunlight. If so I will go for pre rinse to cool it down to slow the soap dry up in the foaming prewash process. If the car is cool or it isn't under sun light, I will foam up the car at dry for more cleaning power in the prewash stage.
Just bought some white pearl and it get out barely just clear. I shaked and shaked and it started clogging so i shaked and heat it on the heater inside and shaked it... Worked again but still clear. Very pissed cause the store is at a 40min drive. I think the can was on shelf for to long idk.
Great video!👍🏻
Thanks man!
Jimbo - washchem pro is the bomb bro👍🏽👍🏽
I am a professional car detailer / corrector.
Carpro Reset is pH neutral, Carpro lift or descale are the alkaline and acidic ones 👍🏻
Thanks! I see he still hasnt corrected himself. So I guess we can throw everything else he said out the window.
Hey Jimbo, what happened to the cerakote video from a few days ago? It looks to have been taken down. Im concerned about the lack of durability your test showed , as i recently purchased a few packs . Thx
I have to let people use their imagination!
@@autodetailingpodcastok so my imagination is telling me that Cerakote saw this video and had this taken down. If they are able to promote that companies are buying their coating, diluting it down and rebranding , then people should know IF there is a possibility that this stuff may not stand up to a handful of auto car washes. I'm going to apply this to a section of my car and go through a car wash a handful of times to see what happens.
Pls keep us updated on your findings!
This is so sad. Best is to avoid this kind of company.
@@autodetailingpodcastwill do mate. I bought a few packs but have only used on one clients car so far. A bit worried about doing any more cars as don't want them all coming back in a few months saying that beading etc have gone.
As a Car Wash Attendant, I see this as an absolute win. 🥹
I NEVER rub anything on my paint after i wash it. I spray with foam cannon, wash with soft mitt, rince then blow dry.
If the car has sand or cement from construction areas, and you pre~rinse with a power washer (no soap), isn’t that inducing scratches?
Great video - I pre-rinse my cars with a low pressure tap hose first - not my pressure washer - then I use foam followed by a pressure wash. The logic being that if I pressure wash pre-rinse there is a theoretical risk that the water under pressure might act on larger dirt particles and damage the paint (a bit like sand blasting). I have no evidence for this of course but it seems logical!
i spray Wizards bug release on my car while it’s dry.. let it dwell for a minute or two then rinse off.. garden hose foam gun with Wizards Max Foam Wash, a few different microfiber towels and one rinse water bucket with a grit guard that i’ll change out a few times depending on how dirty the car is.. works great no scratches or swirls
Awesome video. My foam cannon would have ran out of soap... i wish mine lasted like yours.
It’s a good one. I have a vid on it.
@@autodetailingpodcast I'll check it out. I have mjjc pro.
Ive used Wash Chem on my Tesla before and although it’s a great touch-less soap, it negatively affected my protectants especially graphene ceramic coating and discolored plastic, paint and metal parts of the car. Made my red caliper looks really faded and left streak residues that wont come off.
Noted. Thanks for the heads up.
This deserves more attention. I've tried Wash Chem, and while it cleans effectively, be cautious with different materials - some plastic trims and coatings on my vehicles discolored. Also, a heads up: if you're using soft water, it amps up the cleaning power, learned that the hard way...
@@WoundmanTV I use deionized water, that's probably why the cleaning power was so strong. I now dilute it to half of the recommended ratio and mix in regular car wash shampoo. It still works great especially removing brown tires.
Bro please let me know what is the foam cannon you use as well as the pressure washer because I’m using an MTM cannon and my cannon bottle the goes so quick that it’s only enough for one car as a full bottle please help me i must be doing something wrong
This is the mjjc v3
Obviously, there are multiple scenarios in which a pre-rinse might be effective or not. But in the case of the vehicle tested here, where it does appear to be a "wash" between the two, it also appears that it also might have helped to let the pre-rinse side soak for a minute. It looked very dry and giving the water a bit more time to soak into the dirt, thus making the pre-wash soak through the grime slightly more quickly (and possibly more thoroughly)
before running off.
Seams a bit mad washing inside the floor will never dry is that a grat floor?
Let the rinse vs. no rinse battles begin!😂
I am a pre-rinse washer most of the time but I dont use a power washer. I do have one to be honest. Not even sure my pre-rinse even counts as a true pre-rinse because I start by spraying it with a foam cannon, then rinsing it off before foaming it again. After that, I use mitts to wash it like normal. I don't use buckets.
The main reason I dont use my power washer is so I can run a water filter because the water where I live has a high mineral content that tends to leave deposits when I don't use it. If you use a power washer, you need either expensive high-flow special filters or DIY your own, both of which can risk damaging your power washer if you're not careful. I understand some people claim that water filters don't work, and trust me, I was skeptical too. However, I conducted a very "scientific" test🤣 by washing one half of the car with a filter and the other without like Jim, and I could feel the difference during the drying steps. Also, it is possible that depending on where you live a filter wont help you as not all tap water is the same and might need different kinds of filters or processes to "clean" it.
The second reason is that, although I have no evidence for this, I believe power washing turns the dirt and grime into a makeshift sandblaster, especially here in the desert where I live.
I believe to just do what work best for you. I love detailing my car.
Isn't that orange pressure washer nozzle too narrow to be using on paint? I typically use the much wider white nozzle on paint and the medium width green nozzle on wheels so I don't risk damaging the paint or lifting up the edge of vinyl wrap stripes on my vehicle.
I like it with the stubby handle so I don’t have to get so close to the car
@autodetailingpodcast I've done the same with the green nozzle. But to be safe after having some issues with the stripes, I have been using a white nozzle with an 18" wand with angled tip.
@autodetailingpodcast i can say with experience and trial and error that pre-rinsing does dilute anything you apply afterwards and depending on what chemical it is it can severely reduce its effectiveness. Ex: for years ive used formula 21 for cleaning wheels and tires, it is extremely potent and if you spray it on plastics such as trim and let it dry in the sun it wil discolor it. However its excellent at cleaning tires but if you spray it on dry and just rinse it, it actually works better than pre-rinse, applying, and then scrubbing with a tire brush. Thats a significant difference.
I think that’s a great example of how pre rinsing could be helpful! Thanks for that tip.
I would just re foam the car regardless if i pre rinsed or not. Especially if the vehicle is really dirty.
When would you add in a iron remover spray into the process?
Sometimes if the car is cooled down I’ll do the iron first, foam on top, then rinse everything off.
When you wash a car in the sun is it the UV or the heat from the sun that damages the paint in direct sunlight when its wet?
I've often wondered if these products go against our age-old remark of saying that automatic "touch less"car washes are harmful to paint finishes because of their alkalinity. But now we are using, basically the same chemicals in our shops as "strip washes" Because, regardless if we want to admit or not, a touch less car wash can do a pretty darn good job of getting a dirty vehicle clean..
Good point, but I think there are significant differences that shouldn't be overlooked. Doing a decontamination wash with not ph neutral chemicals and running your car through a touchless autowash every week are very different things. As detailers, we have the knowledge, care, and techniques to minimize risk when more caustic chemicals are used on a vehicle. Apart from the regular exposure to harsh chemicals, who knows if a carwash is maintained properly, if the dilution of their chemicals is in a normal range, etc. I don't think we are being hypocritical by using acidic or alkaline products when they are needed, but still preach the dangers of automatic touchless washes.
@scottmattern482 OH believe me, I know we're definitely more controlled than any automatic carwash ever could be.
I think what I was trying to imply was the fact that over the past few years, you keep seeing more and more of these touch less pre wash products and as they evolve, they keep rising on the ph scale.
Yes, obviously our investment is most definitely more controlled but, where is the stopping point of these products.
Bilt Hamber touchless for example is sitting at a ph of 15 and damn near cleans a vehicle spotless; so you have to ask yourself, what is the ph level of the chemicals used in a carwash... that was basically my point
I’ve also seen some horrid things with water spots on glass from touchless washes over a long period of time.
What is explained in this video is something we have been doing all our lives in Europe. It's a time to get rid of the hype and stop the trends.
Pre-rinsing never needs to be done, unless in case of heavy mud, for example.
Allow the pre-wash detergent to immediately absorb into the dirt, followed by applying the product.
Afterwards and after rinsing, do a contact wash. A prewash never removes more than 95 percent.
The one below from Nerta is alkaline but will never, ever cause damage or stains because it is a well-developed product from a company that has been making this product for 40 years. I use it as a pre-wash every time. And no, it does not affect the sealant or wax.
Alkaline pre-cleaners, such as Nerta Carnet Jumbo, exemplify the positive impact of choosing the right product for automotive cleaning. Nerta Carnet Jumbo is specifically formulated to provide powerful cleaning action while maintaining a balanced pH level suitable for various surfaces on vehicles.
Unlike harsh alkaline products that can potentially damage paint, plastics, or other materials, Nerta Carnet Jumbo is designed to effectively break down tough dirt and grime without compromising the integrity of the car's surfaces. Its moderate alkalinity ensures a thorough cleaning process, making it a reliable choice for those seeking to maintain their vehicles in optimal condition.
The key here is to highlight that Nerta Carnet Jumbo represents a responsible approach to using alkaline pre-cleaners. Car owners can trust in its ability to tackle stubborn contaminants while being mindful of the potential risks associated with heavy alkaline cleaners. By choosing a product like Nerta Carnet Jumbo, enthusiasts can strike a balance between effective cleaning and the preservation of their vehicle's appearance.
@autodetailingpodcast Bilt Hamber touchless has got to be the best yet safest prewash product on the market that has the added benefit of being environmentally-safe/biodegradable. They have just released a new glass cleaner too, it is the best glass cleaner on the market by far, and I never thought a simple glass cleaner could be all that special. It really is next-level.
If that chemical must be put in a special bottom because it can eat through some plastics. What does that do to your clear coat?
The only thing is when in the bottle it can sit for a long time and it’s fully concentrated which it wouldn’t be on your car. But it can definitely still harm things so you gotta be careful.
Can it be used on matte paint ? like BMW's frozen option.
Yes, just don’t use it super often. Only when really needed.
Curious, when you fill the foam cannon with thr 22oz water to 10oz soap, how many washes does it last for or do you have to keep refilling for every wash?
With that being said Im looking to purchase Adam's Graphene Carwash to compliment the Adam's Graphene Ceramic spray I already use on my car once my Chemical Guys Blacklight wash is used up.
2 or 3 mid size cars usually
@@autodetailingpodcast Wow, definitly dont last then. With Chemical Guys and bucket wash that I currently do I only do 1 cap full per 5 gal bucket. That's about half an oz of soap per wash. But Im definitly going to look into doing foam now that I have a low powered pressure washer safe for washing my car.
ya you will def use more soap in a foam cannon than a bucket. But usually you wont use 10oz of soap. @@ItsPinecone_911
@@autodetailingpodcast ok roger that. Thanks for the info.
Would this be too much for a ceramic coated car. Would it break down the ceramic coat?
Nah. It would be fine on a ceramic.
I timed the amount of time each side was foamed. The non-prerinse side was from 3:12 to 4:08 (56 seconds) with a bit of foam going over to the pre-rinse side. The pre rinse side was foamed from 4:08 to 4:41 (33 seconds), then there was more foaming on the non-prerinse side from 4:41 to 4:52 (11 seconds). So essentially the non-prerinse side was foamed (about 67 seconds, but take a bit away for hitting the prerinse side a bit) almost twice as long as the prerinse (side 33 seconds)
What was the PH Level of that mixed product?
Not sure - I didn’t test it. But I should next time. That’s a great idea.
Have you ever tried foaming simple green? I’m going to try as a pre rinse. Then foam. Maybe try 5oz simple green in a 32oz bottle. Simple green is no where strong apc like purple power
I haven’t but I wonder if it would do good. If you do it pls report back and let us know!
@@autodetailingpodcast will do. I’ll be taking the car in the snow in the next few days. When I get back, I’ll will try it. CA uses salt, sand and Brine. All destroy a finish.
I haven't tried foaming simple green, but I have tried foaming purple power degreaser. That works decent as a touchless wash, although you need to be quick about rinsing to avoid staining. Simple green is so much weaker that I doubt it would do much. I tried it as a tire cleaner once, full strength, and it was completely worthless.
For a brief time Simple Green made a dedicated wheel cleaner that was quite good. I haven't seen it for a few years though.
@@joeschmoe6908 I don’t want to strip wash the vehicle, but to break down road film, allow P%S pearl do the rest.
Also carpro reset is PH neutral, LIFT is barely alkaline, descale is moderately acidic.
Avoid pre-rinsing for 2 reasons: 1- the existing water on the surface further dilutes the foam when it hits the car, 2- the pressure of water during pre-rinse digs the dirt further into the clear coat preventing the foam from encapsulating the dirt.
That's my go-to love it foam let it sit rinse off foam again contact wash and my mitt is 75 % clean always real dirty cars tho have that last layer of dirt so that's the other 25 percent also works great if you mox in another soap works great , to save product if you want to got that way oh and I don't pre rinse lol
I 1. foam first, 2. pressure wash off and then 3. hand wash with a sponge then 4. pressure wash final time. 5. Use a wet ceramic wax spray and go round the car with dry cloth. Job done, sparkles!
What this video suggests to me is the product does not remove road film and thus what’s the point, since contact cleaning is still needed, and that is best served agitating soap with a hand mitt before rinse and dry via blower and towel.
Good to see a video like this go semi viral or definitely viral for jimbos channel. was surprised to see over 300,000 views for a pre rinse vid.
Nice new shop man?!
Just re painted!
it takes very little time to power rinse a car before it is foamed and washed if you have a pressure washer. You should always do this to the wheels as they get the dirtiest along with the under carriage of the car. And always do your car in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the sun. I also have a pro air cannon with an air squeegee attachment which leaves an absolute mirror finish. I also layer Bead it up after every few washes or you can use any of the really good ceramic coating enhancers. This will enhance the color of the paint job and deepen the mirror finish. Ive done this to our wrapped Y and it makes the finish almost a true mirror finish. Its incredible. The products they have today are amazing and you should never ever bring your car to a car wash if you possibly can. I use the best of everything on my cars and it really shows. My S is a 2016 and the finish is an absolute mirror finish with depth and looks better than a new Tesla S and its not close. Look if you are going to do it, then do it right. Period.
I think the test would have been more meaningful if the towel test was done on the lower side panels of the car, where the most road grime accumulates.
Good point. I can do that next time.
Who are they?
Touchless wash. Never works for people who drive 100km+/day and in shitty weather. Show me a touchless wash that can clean a car that has been driven 800km over two weeks in shitty weather. Love to be proven wrong!
Actually they work better on dirtier surfaces, they remove caked dirt and mud, how do you think they wash semis? it DON'T work for most of us because we want that full clean surface and that you cannot never achieve without a contact wash
I’ve been detailing cars since the early 1970’s. I find all of this very interesting.
Back in the 70's my dad (who was a painter at a dealer) taught me to never use soap when I cleaned my car.....unless I was going to wax it after. The same thing here,..but you would also need to redo any coating you had on your car. I had my Mustang professionally silicon coated so I would never use a product like this....I only use soap rated for coatings.
Wait, I was told by a carpro salesman that carpro reset was ok to use weekly on a ceramic coated car. Is that not correct?
It def works but I did notice after about 8 months of doing the same that it was a little harsh to plastics and such. Just my experience over many months.
What would be great would be to read out what the product manufacturer says on how to apply their product. I tend to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations rather than suggestions from other people unless they can demonstrate their result is better than what you get from the manufacturer’s directions - given that they should know how to get the most out of their product.
Similar to what others have said, it often depends on what dirt I've collected, that will depend on whether I attack it was a jet wash before using the pre-wash Snow Foam. That said, Meguiar’s do advise to use a mit on the foam if the car is particularly or heavily soiled. So pre-rinsing is not required with their Snow Foam. I just pre-rinse the car for my own confidence, but only if my car is exceptionally bad.
I've been using Meguiar's Ultimate range for years with excellent effect and fantastic finish. Initial cost of the bottles may be a bit pricey, but not the most expensive, and as for price per wash in terms of cost, very minimal, so it doesn't break the bank. Washing every couple or four weeks depending on what I've picked up, topping up the wax isn’t always necessary, the bottles last well over two years. The wax is in its 3rd year, and wash and wax is in its 4th (you only need 4 caps full to a gallon of water). I know it is a trend to use the wash and wax with a cannon, but to me that is just an unnecessary waste of product, after all it is formulated and designed as a contact wash. The beauty of their Snow Foam is that if you don’t use it all, you can store it in a jar for next time, though you have to give it a bit of a shake before use, as the product can sometimes separate depending on how it is stored. The soaps don’t always strip away the protection to any noticeable degree.
I use the one bucket method - always have, no scratches, but there again I don't reach to the bottom of the bucket to get to the grit.
I have found that using the same manufacturer for the pre-wash and wash works best as they often formulate their products to complement and work with each other.
I appreciate that this may be subjective, particularly where some who have found products from different manufacturers have made good pairings, which produce excellent results - whether it is a maintenance wash or a deep clean, with little effort at little cost per wash.
Bilt Hamber products are getting a lot of attention and good praises, so I will give them a try, to see if they can give Meguiar's a run for their money in terms of cost per wash, final finish result and longevity of protection. Bilt Hamber’s corrosion protection products and underbody sealants are absolutely brilliant. I just hope that their washes and waxes are as good.
In your swipe test I was interested in the difference in dirt left behind, but for a pre-wash what is important, is how much it prepares the dirt for easy removal in the contact wash stage (or contactless wash for Touchless). That said, I have seen that many think that contactless mean no contact, this isn’t always the case, if often just means that you have to make less contact and thus less effort when washing.
As you allude to in your presentation, personally I sometimes find that a pre-wash is not always necessary, I suppose some would call this a maintenance wash, but to me it is not mandatory. This probably explains why I have had my current bottle for the 2 years. I always use a pre-wash before going into the winter, then again at the end of winter to wash all the salt, etc. off the car.
It would be interesting to see what was left on the car after the contact washing stage, or how easier it made the contact washing stage before being waxed/coated.
High ph soap with some degreeser
I don’t worry about infinitesimal scratches on my car. I spend my energy worrying about whether the engine or transmission is going to continue to operate as needed.
Prob a better thing to worry about
to start with i would never direct water at the paint in a pressure manor like thst.
What pressure washer are you using?
See here: th-cam.com/video/YIcNOK3fhsM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OJD55gaxufPgAEKn
I hear no electric pump when you use your power washer. Is it outside or what?
what if i don't' have the option to spray my car with foam because i only have 2 buckets and a hose? should i still avoid pre rinsing?
No. You will need to pre-rinse. But they also make foam cannons that attach to a garden hose - amzn.to/48x1cBV
With winter approaching and sticky road salt and other road grime I decided to do a full touchless wash using Bilt Hamber Touchless. I used a pump sprayer on half the car and a foam cannon on the other half and NO pre-rinse on either side. Pump sprayer won, I believe foam cannon dilutes the soap too much or does not put enough of it on the car to eat away the road grime. Used leaf blower to dry it off. Overall, contact wash takes me 30min to complete and give me the 100% result I want, pump wash will take me 1/2 the time and give me a 70% result - good enough for winter results :)
you dont want to use touchless all the time, just ceramic coat it yourself or use a good wax and grime wont even stick so bad to be using touchless
@@emilioavila844 Why not? Car is ceramic coated, will try using a gentler mix so that is does eat at the coating. I was thinking of trying ONR next, spray it down, let it dwell and then rinse off.
@@johnnyv5995BH its strong it will destroy coatings and plastics faster, just get a ph neutral shampoo for maintenance
@@johnnyv5995use ratio 1-2% PIR instead of 4-5% for weekly as Touchless is still a ph 13 alkaline foam. The cutting power is still more potent at 1-2% PIR than normal foams.
even if pre-rinsing cleans more ill still just foam it straight away , saves so much time I don't care much about pre rinsing it lol
I’ve come to the theory that if you have water down (pre rinse) it’s going to have a hydro layer between the paint and the cleaning solution, if you spray the solution on a dry car, you have the solution easily encapsulating the dirt and grime on the paint.
makes sense. would be inline with my findings too.
@@autodetailingpodcast is it not just that you are cleaning off a lot of the dirt in the prerinse? i doubt it's that differnt in impact
So i guess if your pre rinsing, your pushing the dirt and stuff around with no lubrication in theory, but if you foam first your letting the soap encapsulate and lubricate the surface lessening your chance of scratching, in theory.
😂 a Cancoat towels love these
Great video. I think you were suppose to foam from the bottom up according to the directions.
Finally someone notices. Always rinse pre soak foams from the bottom up. The foam grabs onto the dirt and suspends it, using the sharp stream of water to release it from the paint. If you rinse from the top down, you're removing the bulk the cleaner before the sharp stream of water hits it, essentially diluting the cleaner and minimizing its cleaning ability. Good catch @T-WashMD2019
You started with a car that is significantly cleaner than mine is 95% of the time. I think you might want to do the same test on a dirty car. You might find the same results but I don't think it is a reasonable test. I clean my car once a year whether it needs it or not. My friend thinks I baby my car.
The one reason I think you got more dirt on the pre-rinsed side was that because you put down a lay of water onto the paint surface and then the foam cleaner is not actually 100% touching the dirt on the paint it has a layer of water between the dirt and the foam. Not pre-rinsing it you put the foam directly onto the dirt and actually clinging to the dirt that is on the paint giving you a better result with not pre-rinsing.
I may be wrong but I believe that pre-rinsing your car will just lubricate it and thus the soap is going to "attack" the grime less.
Ask any dentist and they will tell you that you should not rinse your toothbrush before putting paste on it because then the paste is not going to cling that well and your brushing is going to be sub-par.
Why do you foam just so random? some areas u almost miss, others you lap 3 times? then you return to spray the 1st side again?
Prob just habit from my days doing fleet cars.
Subscribed interesting watch :-)
Thanks!
What does it do to paint protection ?
Depends on the protection. It will remove weak waxes and will be fine with good ceramic coatings
Always pre rinse!