Jeep TJ Transmission crossmember install -belly up/tummy tuck - fully flat
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2019
- This is a basic walkthrough for an independent transmission crossmember install on a TJ. I installed this in order to do a fully flat belly skid plate and separate the skid and crossmember for ease of use in the future. Below is a list of the parts i have and the tools i used to complete this. If you have any further questions please feel free to ask in the comments.
In order to complete this, I have:
-1 inch motor mount life
-1 inch body lift
-savvy cable shift (novak works also)
-adjustable control arms (uppers at minimum)
-new crossmember (daves customs)
-slip yoke eliminator kit (teraflex shart shaft)
-cv rear driveshaft (adams driveshafts)
The tools that i used during this process were:
-grinder
-welder
-3/8 ratchet
-1/2 ratchet
-8mm deep well socket (front driveshaft)
-1/2" deep well socket (trans mount to skid)
-9/16 deep well socket (trans mount to trans)
19mm socket (impact used to remove stock skid)
-breaker bar
-sawzall (used to remove uncooperative stock skid bolts and exhaust)
-floor jack
box wrenches (for bushing bolts on new crossmember will vary by manufacturer)
-Drill bits up to 7/16 (if you use the plate that comes with the kit)
Nice video good info also notice not many videos on a tummy tuck. I’m doing a 1in body lift and motor lift to prepare for this.
thats how i started as well. I had done them about 2 years in advance actually before i got around to this project. overall they provide a lot of options for other mods as well as access to things.
Nice video. I am curious about what you used to cut those skid plate bolts off with. That is the part i am most interested in figuring out before I start.
a grinder is the easiest way to remove stuck skid bolts. a sawzall will work also with the proper blades
Great video man, I plan on doing this on my 04 Tj. Did you end up using a rubber mount where the transmission bolts to the cross tube? Or did you hard mount that?
i hard mounted to the crossmember, with a piece of sheet rubber in between for vibration and corrosion reasons
dud the trans mount has to pivot with the motor you just locked the trans mount up, the bushings on the ends will not pivot your going to need a trans mount on that x member or you will crack the trans in half ask any shop good video though, keep trying you;; get it also really go idea just needs the mount in the center,I may copy it myself
ive been running it hard for 2 years and have had no issues. my motor is mounted with poly mounts as well. there is very little movement in my driveline. i am not the first, or the most extreme to mount this way by any means, its a tried and true method used by many people
@@slothfabgarage8233 as long as you're poly/poly you're good. He is right though, if you have rubber engine bushings it's going to move way more than the poly trans, essentially making your trans a very expensive crossmember.
What size tires are you currently running?
currently running 35x12.5r17 hoping to get my axles done this coning year and move to 37s or 38s