I've been an installer for about 21 years, I estimate around 1500 doors so far. You did fine, but here's a few tips. Milwaukee makes horrible tools, but their diamond tipped bits last the longest. Home depot sells them. Before using, use a masonry bit to start a hole, you can drill the hole completely with them if you like, but they will wear out depending on the hardness of the tile. Bosch Blue Granite Turbos are the best, Home Depot. Bosch Blu Mol from Lowes, they look the same but are crap. You can use a cordless hammer drill on PROPERLY INSTALLED tile, but avoid it within an inch of an edge. Never use a corded one, they have a harder percussion, you want it to feel more like a vibration than a hammer. I've been through probably seven dills so far, Ridgid hammer drills are so far the longest lasting with the right percussion. Properly installed means the tile was set in wet cement. If you can touch the cement and it doesn't stick to your finger, it's too dry. Forget the grinder and Sawzall, use your miter saw with a standard carbide thick kerf finish blade (lots of teeth), you can make 100s of cuts in aluminum and still do trim, even cheap blades last. Aluminum is very soft, cut slowly. Grinder will create heat, heat ruins coated finishes. Only caulk the outside of the door, you can caulk the inside of the uprights if you want to smooth out the look of uneven tile, but leave the bottom inside uncaulked for drainage. The answer to the finish question, most chrome finishes aren't really chrome, they are polished aluminum, Brushed Nickel is plated over aluminum. Black is usually a type of powder coat, ORB, if it is a solid brown will likely be a powder coat, but the ORB that has variation, actually looks "rubbed", is usually a type of paint. Use a non ammonia based glass cleaner and you should be fine. Sprayaway foaming works well. Actually, I'd avoid ammonia or vinegar altogether, many glass doors come with the slick coatings now, ammonia and vinegar will destroy it. I probably have a hundred more tips, but these ones seemed relevant.
Wow thanks for all the good tips from a professional they are very helpful! I don’t use any cleaners on the door I just squeegee the glass after a shower and use a wet magic eraser for cleaning but it does seem like the slick coating is already gone🤔
Juan Marin ok. When you apply caulk, take the sprayaway cleaner and go over the caulk, when you tool it with your finger, the caulk won’t stick to any surface with the cleaner on it. This tip works on any surface, even flat paint, the cleaner will evaporate. A good steamer will clean anything off glass and tile, the worst soap scum you’ve ever seen will run right off the walls. I use a McCullough (much hotter than a store bought)I got from amazon. They clean everything else too, grills, cooktops, car interiors, bugs, windows, patio furniture etc. even had good luck on the scum ring in the pool. A suction cup is something you’ll never regret having around the house, pump style not the lever ones. I use them for moving appliances, setting tubs, tile work, freeing stuck windows, installing windows. Latex coated gloves are a godsend. The only caulk I use is GE II kitchen and bath clear. I’ve tried them all, the ones that say they are for glass are the worst. Flexibility is key. Anything with a color is less flexible. Hope that helps.
I had a lot of trouble with the inner door installation. I could not get it to hang on the top slide bar. It took numerous tries to get ahold of DreamLine but when I finally talked to someone, he told me to remove the rollers from the door. Put the door in track and shim it up until I could get the rollers re-attached. Happy to say it worked. Finally, after 10 days of trying, getting frustrated and ignoring the job to start and finish multiple other jobs, I can say the DIY job is complete.
I’ve had these doors laying flat in my garage for almost a year. TWO contractors said no way they’d install because they wall was slightly out of tolerance exactly where yours was. We did it ourselves following your video. Perfect! No issues. None. Thank you for allowing us to reclaim our garage and getting the doors installed. But - I couldn’t find where to follow the links so I could order the bits via your video
I got the dream line sapphire and it wants me to put a screw through the tub to hold the stopper and I was thinking the same thing you were saying that I don’t wanna put a screw in an area like that so I’m glad to see what you did there, and I’m gonna take your advice and do the same thing to mine
Overall very good job I might add for someone who is doing this work by themselves when it comes to having to lift a track up to WinStar the last door take a block of wood prior to lifting the door and said that track on top of the piece of wood this will create the space you need so that you can mount the door and then free your hands up to be able to remove the block!
Thank you so much for this video. We'll be installing the shower door within the week as soon as it arrives. Great instructional video, nice pace, and phenomenal job explaining what to do. Also big shout out to Jim Gilman for all the wonderful tips. Highly professional and it's greatly appreciated!
Watched this video a couple of times before installing my similar sliders. The one thing I did different was to wait until install was complete before applying silicone around the frame (I was concerned that the wet silicone would be disturbed when installing the glass). I could have followed the instruction, but your tutorial was much better. This video was very helpful, thanks for posting. Subscribed 👍
Awesome and thank you! I’m glad it was helpful for you in your installation and is good to hear. The silicone I put on during installation was underneath the tracks and then I put the final bead around after it was all installed.
I'm installing this same shower door, so this was very helpful. From their instructions, I never would have guessed to dry-fit the whole thing, and then fasten it all down. Your video was excellent! I prefer the diamond bits with the side-slot. I believe they are Bosch and I got them from Home Depot. I always clean the bit out between holes and it makes the job faster. Plus, an extra kid running around can operate the bottle and your bag trick was excellent as well! Side note: You mentioned having an issue with the side-rails and silicone not sticking to them. It appears that out of their protective poly-bag wrap from the box, that there's a bit of a film on the aluminum. I gave the threshold, top channel and side-rails a wipe-down with alcohol prior to installation.
Thanks for the update. I removed some of the caulking and reapplied it doesn’t seem like it’s had a problem sticking the second go round so you might be right there may be a slight film on the tracks.
Thanks for video, learning from your experiences vicariously is better than me guessing alone! I need to install shower station into porcelaine tiles with cementboard in back...I'm hoping drilling 3/16" through tile then tapcon drill cement with screws will hold
Fantastic Video, informative, honest, well thought-out and planned, well shot. Greet personality and and positive. Now let me go install my doors with your helpful tips! I'll be back.
Thanks for filming your installation. It is a great help to answering some of my uncertainties installing the same shower door. The only difference is the color. Thanks again, it looks great!
Thanks I have mine cut and ready just scared of hurting my tile. Just a fyi I used my miter saw cut slow and use a aluminum blade cut smooth like butter. I did roll over a piece of tape so it wouldn't slide on the miter saw because it's slick and that could be a super oops in many ways. And yes the black is worth the poor warranty looks super sharp. Now just waiting to get some longer screws thanks that was confusing me because my tile has tons of layers behind it and the screws seemed to short to me also. Thank you great info
No problem! Just keep in mind longer screws will only work if you have something solid behind the tile like wood, if not you will have to use wall anchors.
I just tiled my shower, and am about to install glass shower doors similar to yours, but not the same brand. I have two tips for you. When drilling with the diamond bit, keep a shallow cup of water (tuna can, or Dixie cup for example, and dip the drill bit in the water occasionally. It will cool the bit, and also coat the bit with a few drops of water. That way, you can use two hands to steady the drill, and it it not so messy. I like your plastic bag idea to catch the water. I will have to try that. Also, the second tip. When applying silicone caulk to tile, apply a thin bead, put some denatured alcohol in a spray bottle, and lightly spray the bead. Then run a caulk tool down the bead, cleaning the extra caulk off the tool as needed. The tool puts a nice finish to the caulk, and the caulk will not stick to the alcohol. So you keep the bead narrow. No need to tape, and the alcohol dries in about 20 seconds. I tried this for the first time this week, and it worked great!
The problem I had was the silicone caulking did not stick to the door frame for some reason. it seemed like it did but when you touch it and push on it it comes right off The frame but stuck to the towel and granite? I’m wondering if maybe there was an oily residue on the frame? Have you ever had any problems like this?
Thank you so much for this video. I've had these doors for a few weeks and a bit nervous to install. Hoping to get them in this weekend. Just curious how different the measurements for your top and bottom were? In other words, how plum were your walls. Also, for the additional screw you added to the right side, did you have to drill through the tile or go through the grout? Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to install this same shower door system and am curious to know if you've had any problems with NOT drilling the base plate into the curb as the instructions direct. I, too am reticent to drill into the acrylic base.
No I have not had any problems yet just silicone it down and silicone both inside and outside. It basically just keeps the bottom of the doors from swinging in or out the rest of the door hangs on the top track.
Dreamline makes good enclosures. Were your walls plumb? My Dreamline is frameless (frameless glass and sides) and I can’t use it. Both walls are not plumb and the directions say “no room for out of plumb walls.” The walls are about 3/4” wider at the top than they are at bottom. I think I’m out of luck. Your unit allows for some discrepancies as it hides the gaps in an out of plumb side wall.
Oh dang that sucks. Yes my walls were pretty plum I had one little recess in the middle on one side but for the most part they were pretty plum. You are correct though you can hide some more with the doors I used versus frameless.
Thanks for the helpful video. I'm thinking of buying the same shower. The manufacturer says 2 1/4 inch minimum for the threshold on the shower base, but do you know the width of the side rails (from the front to the back of the side rails)? I have some trim that overlaps my shower base a little, and I want to make sure the side rails will fit within the width of the threshold of my shower base. Thanks!
I'm doing this install right now. Thanks a ton! I didn't see you drill the holes in the vertical rails for the top/bottom bump stops. Did you drill additional holes in your tile or did you cut them flush like the center door track curb hardware? If possible, let me know since this is my first time and trying to get it done. Totally appreciate your video. Big thumbs up!
No problem glad you found it helpful. When I installed mine there was no need to drill the side walls for the bump stops because the screws were not long enough to go through past the backside.
I am looking to do this to my shower door, but my shower is just over 55.5" wide. The kit says it is for widths 56 " to 60" widths. In your opinion is that half an inch going to make it unusable in my situation?
We are considering getting one of these, but like you mentioned it only has 1 yr. warranty. Are you satisfied with the quality after a year? Thanks for your input.
Yes we are. We have not had any issues with them so far and they have been holding up great. We do not use any harsh chemicals when cleaning them and we squeegee the glass after we get our shower and only use magic erasers with water to clean them. Hope this helps.
You want the inner door closet to the shower head. The overlap between the inner and outer doors prevents the water from the shower going out the gap between the doors.
I whipped it down really good after peeling the caulking off that didn’t stick with a magic eraser and then recaulked it. I haven’t had any issues after re-caulking it.
If you do not have framing behind the tile where you’re going to put the screws you’ll have to use wall anchors. In my case I had framing but I had to buy longer screws to go through the ceramic and cement board before we hit the framing and I believe I put a link to those screws in the description of the video that I purchased.
I didn't see your video until gluing down the bottom piece and the screws in the box were too small and didn't bite into the predrilled holes. I saw you squeezed the underside of the track to grab the screws. Wish I would have watched this prior to following the directions that came with the door
I think the warranty difference has to do with the coating on the bronze. Both are probably made from the same material, but the bronze is a finish. People file warranty claims for the dumbest reasons so Dreamline probably got tired of the folks with the bronze ones and cut their warranty period.
Yes you are probably right. I’m sure they are all made of aluminum but this did have me concerned with how well the bronze finish would hold up. No problems so far.
One problem I am having was the silicone caulking did not stick to the door frame so I need to redo it? I used the same tube in my other shower to redo it and it stuck fine to plain aluminum?
Hi thanks, sure would like to hire you! Good job! I like those marble shelves in the corners and the thresshold are they available somewhere through the Internet? PS I like the black too!
Lol thank you very much. I appreciate that! I actually bought the granite from a local granite place anywhere that sells granite should be able to make you them.
Hi I watched your video and I am also concerned about drilling into my marble topper on the curb, it is 1 1/4 in thick, I like your solution of crimping the bottom, I am just concerned how it will age. Has anyone mentioned this as a problem?
I have not had any problems with mine yet if you’re referring to how does the frame age mine has held up well but I do not use any abrasive cleaners on it I just use a magic eraser to clean it with water.
Thank you so much dude. i don't know about you but i feel like their instructions were horrible. I also notice there a minor differences between my instructions and yours. Their instructions are really stupid and unclear in my opinion.
If you don’t start on an angle the bit will walk all over the place. This makes it much easier to get it started then you tilt it up and it will stay where you want it.
I've been an installer for about 21 years, I estimate around 1500 doors so far. You did fine, but here's a few tips.
Milwaukee makes horrible tools, but their diamond tipped bits last the longest. Home depot sells them.
Before using, use a masonry bit to start a hole, you can drill the hole completely with them if you like, but they will wear out depending on the hardness of the tile.
Bosch Blue Granite Turbos are the best, Home Depot.
Bosch Blu Mol from Lowes, they look the same but are crap.
You can use a cordless hammer drill on PROPERLY INSTALLED tile, but avoid it within an inch of an edge. Never use a corded one, they have a harder percussion, you want it to feel more like a vibration than a hammer. I've been through probably seven dills so far, Ridgid hammer drills are so far the longest lasting with the right percussion.
Properly installed means the tile was set in wet cement. If you can touch the cement and it doesn't stick to your finger, it's too dry.
Forget the grinder and Sawzall, use your miter saw with a standard carbide thick kerf finish blade (lots of teeth), you can make 100s of cuts in aluminum and still do trim, even cheap blades last. Aluminum is very soft, cut slowly. Grinder will create heat, heat ruins coated finishes.
Only caulk the outside of the door, you can caulk the inside of the uprights if you want to smooth out the look of uneven tile, but leave the bottom inside uncaulked for drainage.
The answer to the finish question, most chrome finishes aren't really chrome, they are polished aluminum, Brushed Nickel is plated over aluminum.
Black is usually a type of powder coat, ORB, if it is a solid brown will likely be a powder coat, but the ORB that has variation, actually looks "rubbed", is usually a type of paint.
Use a non ammonia based glass cleaner and you should be fine. Sprayaway foaming works well.
Actually, I'd avoid ammonia or vinegar altogether, many glass doors come with the slick coatings now, ammonia and vinegar will destroy it.
I probably have a hundred more tips, but these ones seemed relevant.
Wow thanks for all the good tips from a professional they are very helpful!
I don’t use any cleaners on the door I just squeegee the glass after a shower and use a wet magic eraser for cleaning but it does seem like the slick coating is already gone🤔
Thanks. Add a few more tips...
Juan Marin ok.
When you apply caulk, take the sprayaway cleaner and go over the caulk, when you tool it with your finger, the caulk won’t stick to any surface with the cleaner on it. This tip works on any surface, even flat paint, the cleaner will evaporate.
A good steamer will clean anything off glass and tile, the worst soap scum you’ve ever seen will run right off the walls.
I use a McCullough (much hotter than a store bought)I got from amazon. They clean everything else too, grills, cooktops, car interiors, bugs, windows, patio furniture etc. even had good luck on the scum ring in the pool.
A suction cup is something you’ll never regret having around the house, pump style not the lever ones. I use them for moving appliances, setting tubs, tile work, freeing stuck windows, installing windows.
Latex coated gloves are a godsend.
The only caulk I use is GE II kitchen and bath clear. I’ve tried them all, the ones that say they are for glass are the worst. Flexibility is key. Anything with a color is less flexible.
Hope that helps.
Jeremiah Mcintosh you can buy aftermarket coatings, Home Depot has one called euroshield. I think you have to apply them periodically thought.
Thanks I thought about maybe trying rain x as well?
I had a lot of trouble with the inner door installation. I could not get it to hang on the top slide bar. It took numerous tries to get ahold of DreamLine but when I finally talked to someone, he told me to remove the rollers from the door. Put the door in track and shim it up until I could get the rollers re-attached. Happy to say it worked. Finally, after 10 days of trying, getting frustrated and ignoring the job to start and finish multiple other jobs, I can say the DIY job is complete.
I’ve had these doors laying flat in my garage for almost a year. TWO contractors said no way they’d install because they wall was slightly out of tolerance exactly where yours was. We did it ourselves following your video. Perfect! No issues. None. Thank you for allowing us to reclaim our garage and getting the doors installed. But - I couldn’t find where to follow the links so I could order the bits via your video
Great glad to help! To see the links you need to open up the description by tapping the arrow next to the title. Links are in there.
I got the dream line sapphire and it wants me to put a screw through the tub to hold the stopper and I was thinking the same thing you were saying that I don’t wanna put a screw in an area like that so I’m glad to see what you did there, and I’m gonna take your advice and do the same thing to mine
Yours is the only video I've found on this install. Thanks!
Thanks 👍
Great explanations!! I love the ziploc bag trick to catch the dust.
Overall very good job I might add for someone who is doing this work by themselves when it comes to having to lift a track up to WinStar the last door take a block of wood prior to lifting the door and said that track on top of the piece of wood this will create the space you need so that you can mount the door and then free your hands up to be able to remove the block!
Thank you so much for this video. We'll be installing the shower door within the week as soon as it arrives. Great instructional video, nice pace, and phenomenal job explaining what to do. Also big shout out to Jim Gilman for all the wonderful tips. Highly professional and it's greatly appreciated!
Thank You. I hope it helps you with your install!
Watched this video a couple of times before installing my similar sliders. The one thing I did different was to wait until install was complete before applying silicone around the frame (I was concerned that the wet silicone would be disturbed when installing the glass). I could have followed the instruction, but your tutorial was much better. This video was very helpful, thanks for posting. Subscribed 👍
Awesome and thank you! I’m glad it was helpful for you in your installation and is good to hear.
The silicone I put on during installation was underneath the tracks and then I put the final bead around after it was all installed.
I'm installing this same shower door, so this was very helpful. From their instructions, I never would have guessed to dry-fit the whole thing, and then fasten it all down. Your video was excellent!
I prefer the diamond bits with the side-slot. I believe they are Bosch and I got them from Home Depot. I always clean the bit out between holes and it makes the job faster. Plus, an extra kid running around can operate the bottle and your bag trick was excellent as well!
Side note: You mentioned having an issue with the side-rails and silicone not sticking to them. It appears that out of their protective poly-bag wrap from the box, that there's a bit of a film on the aluminum. I gave the threshold, top channel and side-rails a wipe-down with alcohol prior to installation.
Thanks for the update. I removed some of the caulking and reapplied it doesn’t seem like it’s had a problem sticking the second go round so you might be right there may be a slight film on the tracks.
Thanks for video, learning from your experiences vicariously is better than me guessing alone! I need to install shower station into porcelaine tiles with cementboard in back...I'm hoping drilling 3/16" through tile then tapcon drill cement with screws will hold
Thanks for the video. Helped answer a few of my questions as I moved through my own install. Turned out great. Thanks again!
Awesome! Glad to help!
I'm having the same identical shower door installed and the same color rubber bronze, so this was VERY HELPFUL thank you very much.
You’re welcome!
I use a wet sponge , works out good and makes the bits last longer for sure.
Thanks! the instructions with the door are confusing doors have been in my shop for a year!👍✌
Very good video , help me a lot thanks😊😊😊
Fantastic Video, informative, honest, well thought-out and planned, well shot. Greet personality and and positive. Now let me go install my doors with your helpful tips! I'll be back.
Haha thank you and it’s much appreciated!
The diamond tipped bits are pricey but worth every penny. Right tool for the right job.
Thanks for filming your installation. It is a great help to answering some of my uncertainties installing the same shower door. The only difference is the color. Thanks again, it looks great!
Thank you! It’s nice knowing my videos are helpful to others!
I didn't know abut the 18v to 20v convertor, great tip. Thanks.
No problem! Glad I could help!
I didn't know that either. Thanks
thanks for the bit/screw size info Boss
Your welcome
Thank you so.much the trick to.keep the door inside really helped us.
Thanks I have mine cut and ready just scared of hurting my tile. Just a fyi I used my miter saw cut slow and use a aluminum blade cut smooth like butter. I did roll over a piece of tape so it wouldn't slide on the miter saw because it's slick and that could be a super oops in many ways. And yes the black is worth the poor warranty looks super sharp. Now just waiting to get some longer screws thanks that was confusing me because my tile has tons of layers behind it and the screws seemed to short to me also. Thank you great info
No problem! Just keep in mind longer screws will only work if you have something solid behind the tile like wood, if not you will have to use wall anchors.
Great video my base is out of plumb across the front by 1/8 th inch. Do you think this door will work Thanks?
You mean out of level?
I just tiled my shower, and am about to install glass shower doors similar to yours, but not the same brand. I have two tips for you. When drilling with the diamond bit, keep a shallow cup of water (tuna can, or Dixie cup for example, and dip the drill bit in the water occasionally. It will cool the bit, and also coat the bit with a few drops of water. That way, you can use two hands to steady the drill, and it it not so messy. I like your plastic bag idea to catch the water. I will have to try that. Also, the second tip. When applying silicone caulk to tile, apply a thin bead, put some denatured alcohol in a spray bottle, and lightly spray the bead. Then run a caulk tool down the bead, cleaning the extra caulk off the tool as needed. The tool puts a nice finish to the caulk, and the caulk will not stick to the alcohol. So you keep the bead narrow. No need to tape, and the alcohol dries in about 20 seconds. I tried this for the first time this week, and it worked great!
The problem I had was the silicone caulking did not stick to the door frame for some reason. it seemed like it did but when you touch it and push on it it comes right off The frame but stuck to the towel and granite? I’m wondering if maybe there was an oily residue on the frame?
Have you ever had any problems like this?
I use the Diamond Plus by Milwaukee. It has the hole for the waste to leave the bit.
Awesome thank you for the tip, I will try that one next time!
Just a tip . Dewalt also makes guards for the grinder
Do you have a video on how to adjust the raising of a Dreamline encore shower doors that you have installed?
No sorry.
Thank you so much for this video. I've had these doors for a few weeks and a bit nervous to install. Hoping to get them in this weekend. Just curious how different the measurements for your top and bottom were? In other words, how plum were your walls. Also, for the additional screw you added to the right side, did you have to drill through the tile or go through the grout? Thank you.
Helped us. But our door in front is so tight and I have trouble moving it. How do we fix it??
Is it rubbing somewhere?
Great video......why did you not come out flush to your shower tray ??
Thanks Ken! I wanted it to be centered because I thought it looked better.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to install this same shower door system and am curious to know if you've had any problems with NOT drilling the base plate into the curb as the instructions direct. I, too am reticent to drill into the acrylic base.
No I have not had any problems yet just silicone it down and silicone both inside and outside. It basically just keeps the bottom of the doors from swinging in or out the rest of the door hangs on the top track.
Dreamline makes good enclosures. Were your walls plumb? My Dreamline is frameless (frameless glass and sides) and I can’t use it. Both walls are not plumb and the directions say “no room for out of plumb walls.” The walls are about 3/4” wider at the top than they are at bottom. I think I’m out of luck. Your unit allows for some discrepancies as it hides the gaps in an out of plumb side wall.
Oh dang that sucks. Yes my walls were pretty plum I had one little recess in the middle on one side but for the most part they were pretty plum. You are correct though you can hide some more with the doors I used versus frameless.
Thanks for the helpful video. I'm thinking of buying the same shower. The manufacturer says 2 1/4 inch minimum for the threshold on the shower base, but do you know the width of the side rails (from the front to the back of the side rails)? I have some trim that overlaps my shower base a little, and I want to make sure the side rails will fit within the width of the threshold of my shower base. Thanks!
I just measured them for you…The Bottom rail is 2” and the side rails are 2 1/8 in
The same door like mine but mine is hard to open I can't find where the problem is
I'm doing this install right now. Thanks a ton! I didn't see you drill the holes in the vertical rails for the top/bottom bump stops. Did you drill additional holes in your tile or did you cut them flush like the center door track curb hardware? If possible, let me know since this is my first time and trying to get it done. Totally appreciate your video. Big thumbs up!
No problem glad you found it helpful. When I installed mine there was no need to drill the side walls for the bump stops because the screws were not long enough to go through past the backside.
Excellent video. Thanks
How do you like the shower door so far Jeremiah? Would you buy it again?
Yes I would it is holding up really well. I
Nice video thank you, the bottom part did you screw the bottom rail to the threshold or just apply silicone.
It recommend screwing the center down but I just used silicone because I did not want to put a hole there.
How do u clean the satin black and bronze finishes. Anything to clean the grime off?
I just use a magic eraser and water. You don’t want to use any harsh chemicals.
Great video bro!! What type of stone did you use on the threshole? Looks real nice!!!💯👍 Thanks!!
Thank you I appreciate that!
The threshold, seat and shelves are granite that I had made from a local granite shop.
I am looking to do this to my shower door, but my shower is just over 55.5" wide. The kit says it is for widths 56
" to 60" widths. In your opinion is that half an inch going to make it unusable in my situation?
Probably a problem with getting the doors in.
We are considering getting one of these, but like you mentioned it only has 1 yr. warranty. Are you satisfied with the quality after a year? Thanks for your input.
Yes we are. We have not had any issues with them so far and they have been holding up great. We do not use any harsh chemicals when cleaning them and we squeegee the glass after we get our shower and only use magic erasers with water to clean them. Hope this helps.
@@JeremiahMcintosh Magic erasers are basically ultrafine sandpaper. I have to think this will eat through the coating.
Yeah it’s easier to put the threshold guide on after you put the door in
Does it matter which side the inside or outside door must be? can either go left or right
No but you should be able to read dream line in the correct direction from the outside of the shower because there is a coating on the inside.
You want the inner door closet to the shower head. The overlap between the inner and outer doors prevents the water from the shower going out the gap between the doors.
hi, i have a opening width of 54 1/2" and i bought a 58" minimum width sliding door. can i make it fit by over lapping?
My walls are not plumb what do I do? They are 3/4" off
So what did you do about the silicone not sticking?
I whipped it down really good after peeling the caulking off that didn’t stick with a magic eraser and then recaulked it. I haven’t had any issues after re-caulking it.
What screws do I use for porcelain side brackets to walls?
If you do not have framing behind the tile where you’re going to put the screws you’ll have to use wall anchors. In my case I had framing but I had to buy longer screws to go through the ceramic and cement board before we hit the framing and I believe I put a link to those screws in the description of the video that I purchased.
Jeremiah, how long did the install take?
Haha 3 times longer than it should have because of me filming what I was doing.
@@JeremiahMcintosh trying to assess how many hours it should take. Any ideas?
It probably would have taken me about 2hrs or so if I wasn’t filming it.
I didn't see your video until gluing down the bottom piece and the screws in the box were too small and didn't bite into the predrilled holes.
I saw you squeezed the underside of the track to grab the screws.
Wish I would have watched this prior to following the directions that came with the door
Hmm that’s weird mine were long and I cut them off🤔
I think the warranty difference has to do with the coating on the bronze. Both are probably made from the same material, but the bronze is a finish. People file warranty claims for the dumbest reasons so Dreamline probably got tired of the folks with the bronze ones and cut their warranty period.
Yes you are probably right. I’m sure they are all made of aluminum but this did have me concerned with how well the bronze finish would hold up.
No problems so far.
One problem I am having was the silicone caulking did not stick to the door frame so I need to redo it? I used the same tube in my other shower to redo it and it stuck fine to plain aluminum?
Hi thanks, sure would like to hire you! Good job! I like those marble shelves in the corners and the thresshold are they available somewhere through the Internet? PS I like the black too!
Lol thank you very much. I appreciate that! I actually bought the granite from a local granite place anywhere that sells granite should be able to make you them.
Is the gap between the top bar and the glass gona be a problem if my shower is comin from the ceiling?
No it shouldn’t be.
What is that stuff coming out of the wall?
What stuff?
Hi I watched your video and I am also concerned about drilling into my marble topper on the curb, it is 1 1/4 in thick, I like your solution of crimping the bottom, I am just concerned how it will age. Has anyone mentioned this as a problem?
I have not had any problems with mine yet if you’re referring to how does the frame age mine has held up well but I do not use any abrasive cleaners on it I just use a magic eraser to clean it with water.
@@JeremiahMcintosh how flush does the screw in underneath need to be, I was thinking of screwing on a wall anchor then sawing the screw off.
Thank you so much dude. i don't know about you but i feel like their instructions were horrible. I also notice there a minor differences between my instructions and yours. Their instructions are really stupid and unclear in my opinion.
why do you start the holes in the tile at an angle??
If you don’t start on an angle the bit will walk all over the place. This makes it much easier to get it started then you tilt it up and it will stay where you want it.