As master carpenter who had to tile my entire shower from start to finish your expertise has been beyond helpful. Now having to install the Shower door once again you have made the object very clear. My skills with wood are like yours with tile and your expertise has transferred to a beautiful master bathroom. God bless your skills it is so refreshing to see a young craftsman like you in this day and age. I am 62 and you can teach a old dog some new tricks.
I love your approach and also your comments about getting younger people into this trade. I also appreciate the fact that you're giving people the confidence to do work around the house themselves. That being said- there's a LOT of absolute no's here when installing these type of doors. 1- Always use drop cloths / moving blankets on your tile floors inside and outside the shower. It protects your beautifully finished tile work from getting dust, dirt and silicone on it, but more importantly protects the glass from shattering. Tempered glass doesn't just crack- it explodes, and all it takes is knocking a corner into a hard tile surface, and BOOM. 3- Always keep a cup of water handy to cool down your tile bits when drilling holes. 3/16" and 1/4" carbide bits work great. 2- NEVER use a framing or metal hammer to knock in anchors. Use a rubber mallet instead- 3- NEVER use an impact driver- you can crack the tile or strip out the screw heads on your hinges like you did on the bottom hinge during your installation. 4- ALWAYS keep corner protectors on the glass corners when setting in place, even on shims. Once you've fastened the clamps to the glass you can cut them away- and use a little bit of krazy glue to adhere the gaskets to your clamps and hinges ahead of time. 5- ALWAYS use a clear setting block inside your top hinge to rest the door glass on. Just sitting the glass on the hinges without blocks can give it a treason to blow up. There's many more tips and tricks I could expound upon, but I had to just put a few out there for anyone who is attempting this type of work. I have been installing shower doors for 25 years, and have 17 employees currently. Superior Shower Doors installs thousands of shower doors a year, and have seen way too many homeowner nightmares than we can count. Safety first ! and keep up the good work Tile Coach.
Right on brother. I'm a minute into video and read the description. Like it just for addressing the stigma of not having gone to college. I had now clue how many people think building and designing is magic to them.
Definitely recommend putting hinges on the door first and dry fiitting! Grab your shims (7/16) set the glass door BEFORE DRILLING and make sure height is the same as inline panel. Once the height is correct you mark your holes by using a pen note you might need someone inside to mark your inside holes. This allows you to have a little more adjust in case you need to raise your door a little more to keep it flush with the panel. You can you a básic clamp to hold your your door up. Also I personally wouldn’t use the impact drill to put the 2 inch screws in because of bad experiences (cracking tiles). Just a few recommendations from my end but your work is also very good! Very clean and awesome work with the tile! It’s hard to find someone who does good tile work while leaving walls plumb! Cheers mate!
Great job - I putter with reno's, but for those who do not have time, patience, or skill - your videos clearly show you are a professional. It's rare for me to subscribe - and I did.
My neighbor down the street just had his wife's son move in with them.. early 20's. He's been sleeping on a park bench the last 2 years. I've had a chance to talk to him along with his step-dad and we both recommended learning a trade skill as a way for him to find some focus. Will forward this video to him. The time you took to write out this video's description just may change his life! Thank you.
You shouldn't need a impact dril for this delicate finish work. Get a regular drill, one that you can shift into low speed for driving finish screws. Or all screws, less chance of slipping off the screw into your finger. just my opinion. Very nice work sir, I watch all your videos and learn alot from you. I've been a carpenter 37 years and learn something new every day. Thanks
Good tip on putting silicone in the screw holes! Just getting ready to install a frameless shower door myself and the manufacturer missed that one in the instrructions. Also like the use of painters tape instead of trying to mark the tiles
solid quality job, I got here because I was having issues with my shower doors rollers but I decided to watch your video I was impressed with your ability, very nice!
As a professional shower door installer i do have a few tips that will prolong the life of the door 1.you need to fill those holes in the tile with silicone as well as inside the clamp on top of the screw 2. The curb needs to be sloped inwards so that the water that runs down the glass runs into the shower and doesn't pool against the glass or run out 3. Test fit, test fit, test fit, the best way to make sure your glass will fit properly is to test fit the door with the hinges on the door and measure off the door the height and width and then test fit the panel to make sure everything is going to fit perfectly and will ensure the top of your door and panel line up perfectly so one is not higher than the other 4. There are many more tips that will save you thousands of dollars down the road
@@evelynscott4955 this size can be done alone but having a second person will make it safer, never set the glass directly on tile or concrete, first measure your glass and opening to double check everything came correctly, place tape along the curb and wall where the panel goes and mark an even line on the tape across the curb (usually center or on a grout line) from that line at the wall mark up the wall a plumb line as high as the panel goes, put hinges on the door centered up and down in the cutout and test fit the door by setting it in place with two 7/16" blocks under the door, shim either side untill both hinges touch the wall while making sure the tile doesnt belly toward the glass too much, check the height at the stike side and the open space where the panel would go write it down, remove the door and make sure the curb has no protruding features like bellied or bumpy tile, test fit the panel on your line using 1/16 or 1\32 shims (may need to start taller if any features of the curb protude up to the glass) add shims as needed to make panel even with the wall measure gap where door goes and height at the stike.... This cannot sit lower than the door, if it does raise the panel to have a max 3/16 gap under panel to get to same height as door, NO SHORTER, if this all checks out make sure panel is held plumb and mark the center of the clamp cutouts on the wall and curb, make cross hairs at your marks so when you drill you will know where the center of your hole is supposed to end up so if your bit walks you can correct it, drill using a 3/16 relton "groo-v" bit (CRL calls them "super tips) fiberglass curbs will need to be drilled out with regular bits that match the size of the screw careful not to drill through a stud when the holes are drilled make sure the srew will fully thread into the hole, if the the screw isnt half threading into wood you should use a molly anchor, fill the holes with mold resistant silicone or CRL RTV408 (best) put in anchors and mount clamps with the clamping screw holes on the inside then cover the topst of the mounting screws with silicone, put gaskets in place and mount the panel with provided clamping screws with a hand driver (if it came with allen screws, they hold better but can strip easier) now using the 7/16 blocks and the same shims set the door in place with the other person insidemake sur both clamps touch the wall, your gap is even along wall and strike and the heights match, if not adjust panel as needed (if you were double checking the measurements at the steps i said to it should be perfect) line up door in line with panel by measuring panel to edge of curb and door strike to edge of curb and door hinge glass to edge of curb adjust till all three match perfectly, when satisfied place one and on top of the door up against the wall and manipulate the door without touching the panel untill the top of the door and panel are in line mark the hinge holes and drill, (may need to step up to a 1/4 inch hole depending on screws that came with door) fill holes with silicone and needed anchors, adjust door and tighten hinges, remove setting blocks, cut sweep and place on door adjust sweep down if needed to meet curb, mount handle, clean the glass wall and curb, make sure it is dry and silicone gaps on panel as desired wait 24-48 hours and enjoy
@@jesseking4815 I might have missed it but you said not to have the glass panel directly on tile. So what should it sit on once it's permanently secured?
@@OGCJ10 there are clear setting blocks specific for shower doors made of a rubber material in various thicknesses, use those to create a gap and adjust tilt
Decent work man!, I follow you often..Two things..it helps to always use a spray bottle and a good spear-point bit when drilling holes in a hard material, which is used specifically for drilling holes in tile and glass. When you are drilling without a cooling method, you always risk cracking or damaging the tile by heat fracture...it happens....Second..I would install the hinges on the door, centered, and then move the door into the opening. That way there is never any measurements to take to line your door up. You simply get the door where it goes, plumb and level, then make your marks with the hinges already on..move the door out of the way, and drill. And for god sakes!, hand-tighten those screws..we’re all proficient in feathering the impact trigger, but if you ever slip or over-torque...you’ll have to change a tile or two.....you obviously do whatever you feel is best, but maybe for the homeowners out there wanting to try this for their first time..they may not want to rip their glass out to fix a broken tile, before getting back to the original job at hand. I’ve installed over 300 plate glass showers of all shapes and sizes..it is never fun when you have to reorder glass or fix a tile....just my two cents!
Yeah man, impacts can be great, but can quickly cross thread, over tighten, and snap screws. I love them for taking stuff apart, but will almost always tighten/assemble things by hand, or with a good variable speed drill driver. Just so much better to FEEL what you’re doing, and make a correction before it’s too late, or you strip some threads, etc.
I would value your opinion. I am installing 4×12 painted glass tile in a shower . Got a 5 foot Kohler Cast Iron Pan , Full length wood backing behind the half inch Hardi backer board in the walls. Question : Would a glass tile break and fail by the weight of this same glass shower doors ?
If you have a good quality screw gun and you have a tremendous amount of experience using it, it becomes an extension of your arm and you can have VERY accurate control of it. But it does take a good quality driver to do this. As for cross-threading goes, if you are used to gently touching the trigger to get a screw started you will know right away if the driver stops turning that you need to try reverse for a revolution to get the threads to match up and then try again. All this almost goes out the window if you don't have a quality tool with a good trigger. If you have a tool that has a bit of a quick start when pressing the trigger only slightly, then you can expect problems. Get good equipment and use it enough for it to become an extension of your body. Of course, there's times where you absolutely must be precise and must use a screw driver. Speed isn't always everything.
you are brave using your impact on stainless screws. If you break one off in the wall in can really mess up your day. Also if you get some laminate flooring samples with the foam backing they are 7/16" and make a perfect shim for holding the door up while you tighten the hinges.
I love this channel and all the great info! BUT,,, plastic anchors and an impact gun, sheeesh. Not only the stainless screw risk of breaking but the plastic anchors are the cheapest method possible.
This is great work Isaac. I have 4 bathrooms that i have been wondering how to have the shower panels and doors done well and you have given me some great ideas and the confidence that it is doable. I hope i can get all i need here in Kenya. Thanks for sharing.
Looks stunning. I can only imagine the mess I would make trying to install the glass door and screen. First, drill slightly off correct position, followed by using blunt drill bit, crack the tile and off square door for sure! And that would be after hours and multiple runs to the diy store.
Beautiful tile install Isaac. The grout looks like it set up a bit too much before it was sponged imo. Favorite bits are Vega bits. They last nearly forever for me. I buy them through Atlas Machinery in Toronto. Can probably be gotten elsewhere. Price is very good. I wish I could post a photo here. They are ultra slim, fit through electrical box punch holes easily. Machined precision.
I will say you get a good job on this install. I have installed hundreds of these doors and your is pretty informative. I would recommend siliconing the holes you drilled into the curb even though you siliconed the glass edge. Also recommend try attaching the hinges to the door and setting on blocks to set the door up to mark. Also have to keep in mind that glass doesnt always come in straight, they will warp in the heating process when being tempered and can belly or dive in and or out on top/bottom corners. I also recommend to us 1/4 wall plugs for when you hang your door, instead of silicone. I have seen doors sag a little because of the gap between the tile and the wood stud if there is one, and if there is no stud then you need a plug for sure! Just a little fyi. Ive been installing frameless euro shower doors for over 8 yrs. But Love all your videos man keep up the good work
Been installing shower doors over 17 years. For basic frameless. Less hardware is more. 3 clips on fixed panel only, clip on curb closest to wall is unnecessary. Those hinges are dated, use Geneva or Vienna (from CRL) with solid backplate for cleaner look. Square clips better. And always use BM8X8CH, BN (brushed nickel) handles with the metal washers. The plastic ones break too easily. Use wood shims to put up panels, once you tighten up the screws on clips, plastic shims are unnecessary. Plus customers might all you over to point them out, then you have to explain what they do and waste your time. Install door in line with the panel, adjust before marking and drilling holes. No need for a laser and tape on the walls and measuring for where everything is gonna land. Ain’t nobody got no time for that! Just put the panel up, mark the hole with the clip, drill it, put it up and repeat with the door. A pair of doubled up wood shims under the door should get you your height you want and space under the door for the sweep. Good job on the tile. I hope this helps you out in future installs. Also, Relton makes the best drill bits for tile. Use a 3/16 bit. We also use these for glass tile. If drilling in to porcelain or granite or glass, just keep em wet
Hi Matt - The shower glass guys that I have talked to all want to drill deep in the curb and penetrate the membrane. They say that the method shown here won't be strong enough and the silicone in the holes will be sufficient. Is this the industry standard or are there a lot of shower door companies that do it the way that Isaac does it here with the 3/8 in hole and cut screws?
@@tadelbridge we have always drilled through curbs. We have also for slab curbs drill a 1in down just to get through the curb and then cut screw bc some of our contractors don't want us to hit the membrane. But we have never had a water issue driving all the way through. But I drill through with 3/16 bit then backfill hole with silicone till silicone comes out the hole then clean then use a plus then fill again. Then ill install the channel use stainless steel screws then fill the channel with silicone all around the screw head. Then once everything else is installed will silicone glass to metal and tile/slab to channel inside and out. And as I silicone I double check to make sure I have no misses on my seal. We also fill the corners on wall side with silicone as well. I'm not a fan of clamps on the curb whatsoever because water can sit under the glass and in those clamps. I prefer channel on the curb (personally) but I have dont a ton of just clamps. I know some people like to silicone under the glass if using clamps but I don't like that bc most people are not diligent enough to always clean the curb and silicone can get moldy and then cleaning the old silicone out and resealing is a pain and I feel never looks as good afterwards. But I'm kinda picky about all that so wouldn't notice
Our experience with the similar installation, is to set up the water blocking strip where the door meets the panels so that the glass door opens inward. When it was opening outwards, we could not adequately control the dripping water from the door towards the bottom end at the hinges. If we were to do it again, I would tell the person that the bottom of the door should have a very minor slope towards the hinges so that dripping off the glass door would be interior to the shower. We manoeuvred the bottom plastic gutter to guide the drip to the hinge side. It works with door opening outward. The person who sold us the panels and did the installation was someone from the local newspaper. We tested with the shower spray before deciding to open the door inwards.
Liked and subscribed at the very beginning. Key words - plumb level. Wish you were in my area. Pray I can find someone with your skill and patience. ❤️👍🏽
In NZ the glass guys just silicone channel on and then wait 48 hrs,no drilling required ,they also hang the doors off of a smaller 7-10 “ glass panel with hinge cut outs on them. It is a much safer way to prevent breaking the waterproofing system
Good clean job.i just installed one shower door almost similar, but sliding. By the way, It was me that pointed out the Milwaukee drive bit. From my experience, Dewalt the best one
try to avoid touching rubber washers with fingers . we had cases where pure grease from naked hands made glas slip . area where holders are should be cleaned with acetone as well :) . anyways awesome job !!!! clean work as always !!!!
We do our installations the same except we put the door hinges on first then set the door and drill in place...!!! you did a good job looks good....we use reg 90% rubbing alcohol to tool our silicone , Ive seen some guys use glass cleaner, but I like alcohol .
Use your glass shims to create a gap between panel and door. I just tape 2 1/8" spacers tape onto the top and bottom. Perfect gap everytime. I also install the door in a closed position, hinges installed on the glass and tighten the screws up into the wall. We also install these doors by ourselves, so we use suction cups, they are great on plate glass doors.
Thanks for sharing Isaac. It’s very smooth. I am going to do mine too. Where do you order the hardware, hinges, handles? Does the glass company pre-drill the hole for you?
I would highly recommend getting some glass cups for moving those panes of glass. They just make the whole process of moving the glass and setting it a bit easier, especially with bigger unwieldy pieces.
I install those kits for a living. Try the CR Laurence 3 inch number 2 Phillips heads. You will have to order them online, they are one of the distributors for those hinges as well. It is the best fitting Phillips heads I have ever used hands-down
At 13:18 he says we have to adjust the door to bring it outward to close the gap, or bring the panel inward. But he did not tell what actually he did. I have a gap like that and I want to close the gap but before attempting to do that, I want to make sure I have right information as I will be doing that single handedly. Very good video though, thanks for that, it's really helpful
Carolina Glass from SC, Conway sends a big HI!!!! Also, use silicon dipped screws on clips. CR Lawrences has great silicon. We use Spade bits. They brake off if not careful.
I personally like using disposable #2 tips instead of those impact bits. All the brands round over just having a box full of tips that you can switch out works best for me.
I've always despised using silicone UNTIL the LAST minute of this video taught me a TIP I can't wait to try,.Denatured alcohol? Fml,the struggle ends finally
Using Maximo durable thin tile I kept cracking tiles when the door hinge was put under stress. In talking with my glass installer he said we must always use masonry anchors in the tile to cushion/stabilize the screw. I learned the hard way, hope this helps someone avoid my mistake 😂
First of all, awesome video! Can you show how you measured and laid out for the hinges and holes for the hinges? Your way is way easier then putting them on the door and marking the holes while holding the door in place.
Hey! Thanks for sharing this helpful video. Question: Do I apply caulk into the drilled rolls before adding the screws? My husband and I will attempt to install a shower door we received as a gift for our firs home and we are freaking out about the complexity of this. Thanks in advance!!!
Great video Isaac. You make it look so easy. I’m just finishing up a total bath remodel and have been referencing your videos along the way - best ones out there, especially for tiling. However, the only part I’m not doing myself is the frameless shower door. I’m paying $1000 for just the installation which seems to be the going rate for these doors. After seeing this s video, I’m tempted to cancel the installation crew and do it myself (but I won’t because I already paid a large deposit). What is so special about frameless shower door installations that justify the exorbitant cost everyone seems to charge?
I'm right there with you about the high prices for framelss shower doors. I think that is due to the transportation and handling of the heavy glass panels. Installation seems to be well within the reach of a DIYer. I'm doing mine myself. However, I have not found a place to order the glass panels where the price of the materials is not close to what my local glass shop charges me to do it themselves. I compared a few places online, but the estimates I received was pretty close to what my local shop charges for installing it. So I see no point in doing it myself until I can find a place with prices that justify doing the installation myself.
Nice demonstration. I didn't see any silicone going into the glass clamp holes. Even though you didn't penetrate the membrane, I would always seal the every hole that is drilled. Was the hardware CRL? Thanks for the upload. TII
For the bits, I always get a bit holder with a to easily swap out bits, I prefer the shorter ones so they don't slip as easily. Also for the silicone I use windex instead of alcohol, does the same thing 👍
A few tips I would share, I install these for a living, Do not use clamps like the video unless the tile is as close to 100% true as you can get or you will regret it (huge silicone filled gaps) use U channel on the panel instead you can fit silicone spacers in there and use them to line your in line up (panel and a door). Another tip I would do if you have 2 guys is put your hinges on and handle while the other is setting the track or clamps for the panel, then help them set the panel and set your door on spacers line the height up within reason so your door isnt too high If it needs to be higher adjust the panel if possible with said spacers, then you set the door pre drill pilot holes remove the door drill the holes then set the door and screw it in, much faster and on a real job with imperfect tile it lines it up much cleaner. Last thing Get some good drill bits and water to dip them in between drilling because most tile is not subway and it takes forever with crappy bits usually you can find good ones on amazon, also get a rubber mallet much better than swinging a hammer against tile. The video looks easy but remember he has good tile work that he did in real production building this is not the case so If you want to do this yourself be prepared for the worst glass is true it doesn't bend or form to your opening and it gets expensive fast if you need to order a new door or panel etc don't get over your head and skip the installers if you are not prepared to pay for mistakes possibly made when ordering.
So on the curb you didn't want to penetrate past the tile into the water proofing. But what about the hardware that goes on the walls? Looked like you drilled all the way through. What do you do about water proofing that? Is that silicone in the hole is all that is needed? And how hard is it to remove screws with silicone in hole? If you have kerdi board on wall, what do you do? Just penetrate tile and use anchors?
Yep......That's what happens when you use the "dissolve" transition. It dissolves the audio along with the video. Hard cuts would preserve the trailing audio at the edit point.
Hey Issac, if you're worried about slippage I would suggest Makita Gold's. They always them at Home Depot, at some point I want to upgrade to wiha's or any kind of engineered driven bit. Thanks for the content!
The alcohol is a good trick , I’ve heard that silicone gets moldy and discolored because most people wet rag it with dirty water , not sure how true that is but regardless alcohol works better
We ordered the glass panels. The installer came and with a laser setup, took measurements that were to 1/16 inch accuracy. The panels were installed, about 1/16th inch above the floor. The pan began about 1/8th inch inside. Silicon, and alignment, which was perfect. Everything is fine. Our shower door swings either in or out. We chose out.
Hey Isaac thanks for all the videos. Enjoying watching your channel. Tile guy here and I’m wondering about your shower pan. I read below you said it was deck mud smooth finish? How is that Installed? Would love to see a video on that as I couldn’t find anything on here about that. Mahalo
Firstly, I want to say you have a nice and relaxed manner in front of the camera. It's easy to follow what you're doing and I have subscribed to the channel based on this. However, you should've shown us, at least briefly, what exactly you did to remedy the out of plumb issue. "I lifted up the bottom and pushed in the top" doesn't really help. I 'd like to know, how?
The glass panel doesn't sit on the tile. It "floats" because it is clamped in the metal plates of the glass clip. To adjust the glass position, loosen the screws, move the glass and place appropriate shims to hold glass until clips are re-tightened. Thin tapered shims help with this a LOT!!
@@willowmobilesystems4008 Cheers, appreciate the reply. I think I understand. The panel has some lateral movement when you loosen the screws. You just have to support the panel while you get it plumb. 😬
Try Wiha Terminator Impact Bits... I think I went 8 months of daily use on one bit. Then I misplaced it, it still had life left but was starting to slip. I am now using the second bit I have pulled out of the pack and loving it.
thanks for the video. when you size the panels. do you have to take the hardware into consideration?....like if the hardware will take up 1/4-3/8 of shower opening?
Isaac Ostrom is there anyway to adjust vertically as well? I have a shower door installed and it could use about a 1/4 inch raise but it’s not totally bothering me since it’s my first shower door install :)
@@radiospank These types of hinges have about 1/8" 'wiggle room'. If yours has been installed at the other end of the adjustment scale then by loosening both clamps *slightly* (only enough to allow the glass to move) and very carefully lifting the door up as far as the clamps will allow, you may get somewhere nearer to less annoying but 1/4" will not be possible. I'd advise a helper but you might get away with some plastic wedges to do the lifting if you are on your own. Do NOT use anything metallic to lift the glass directly or you stand a VERY good chance of breaking the glass panel. They really, really do not like point loads.
@@radiospank Depends on how much room you have in the hinges and or how much room was used on installation. Normally, when installing the hinge in the cutout for the glass, you try to center it. That way once installed if it has to move up or down, you get roughly 1/8" +/- using normal hinges. On heavy duty hinges you typically get a tad more. Beyond that, you could remove the hinge and try to grind down the interior block, but its hard to do and you should know what you are doing.
Several good impact-bit options. I really dig Wera and Felo; the Wera’s come in a couple of varieties (I use the regular, not the diamond-coated-what have you’s) I really like that you can buy them twenty at the time. Felo makes some of the most excellent bits I have used; they are a little more spendy. Both can be found on KC tools.
I use & am happy with the Milwaukee impact bits (usually check home Depot deal of the day every day anyway & buy a couple sets when they're 10$ or so for the set). Nobody has made an everlasting bit...yet😁 I also use mine for automotive, not pounding screws into wood (only impacting for a second to break free)...that probably makes them last a bit longer😁
@Supa Trending Daily my dad was a maintenance guy for apartments and said he rounded out screws with them... I've never had that problem. I wonder if he got one bad set and then stuck with DeWalt never looking back.🤔
Hi.. this video was great.. did you pre-drill the glass yourself or were they ordered to specs? if you did yourself how did you go about drilling the door hinges? thanks..
I prefer to use slabs of granite or quartz at full 3cm thickness for the curb. DO NOT drill through the slab. Measure and leave about 1/8in by marking the drill bit. This helps ensure waterproofing is not compromised.
Good idea. I commented about this above. I don't see how tile can hold sufficiently. I would want my glass to be mounted in something more substantial (would rather compromising waterproofing layer than have brackets come undone). But your idea allows for both.
@@oicfas4523 never compromise the water proofing ever, the curb is the most know place to be compromised and to have a leak . the bottom screws holding the glass are to mostly hold the weight. think about this let say bracket comes lose and some how the glass breaks, to make a new thicker curb and buy new glass few thousand dollars.. now let's say you puncture the water proof it leaks water for years without you knowing the 1 day you can't use the shower because the floor feels unsafe .. now you have structural damage and I shower that size probably cost around 12k-17k in repairs and I've seen shower repairs high as 40k because all the floor joist rotted out .
I did the exact same injury to my thumb nail as well, right on the same spot slipping with an electric screwdriver. Luckily no nail bed damage. The black spot is almost now at the end of the thumbnail.
2:43 in " I don't like to use foam on the floor" So many of your newer videos tout the RSS Foam custom pans and wall system. Have you changed your approach or do you do both? Another great video, thank's Issac.
It's not the bit its the drill. Use a drill driver that can be switched into low speed and it will not slip off the screw. You sure don't use an "impact drill" for finish work.
Tile is enough to anchor a solid glass door? That seems like it wouldn't work. If you have to go through the waterproofing, what can you do to finish it so it's still waterproof?
Looks Great! Question - is that curb slopped and if so, how does the glass hardware accommodate for that? Looks to be vertical and with a slope it would angle in.
Double edge sword Only drill into tile only. I didn’t do job was called in to repair it. Installer only put screws into tile and 1 tile cracked. The other bracket was very lose. 1 yr after install. What I do. Drill for length of screw plus 1/4. Fill half way red guard and install. Clean up any spill over. Now I have been lucky to rip out a bathroom I did years and years ago And it was 100% dry. Zero moisture or water underneath. Also doing that job I put a water alarm system into the floor. Customer loved the idea of knowing a alarm would go off before massive damage could ever occur. FYI you better be very sure of your work to install a alarm. You can set alarm up and even have zones. You can set it up to know where it’s leaking at. Curb. Drain. Corners. Under tile,pan. And it keeps you honest
I always enjoy your videos. Both well done and educational. Just curious why don’t you use collar stops/depth stops on your bits? Have you put this into an application where there is no shower curb and the floor slopes from mid room to drain. If so, do you have a video.
As master carpenter who had to tile my entire shower from start to finish your expertise has been beyond helpful. Now having to install the Shower door once again you have made the object very clear. My skills with wood are like yours with tile and your expertise has transferred to a beautiful master bathroom. God bless your skills it is so refreshing to see a young craftsman like you in this day and age. I am 62 and you can teach a old dog some new tricks.
I love your approach and also your comments about getting younger people into this trade. I also appreciate the fact that you're giving people the confidence to do work around the house themselves. That being said- there's a LOT of absolute no's here when installing these type of doors.
1- Always use drop cloths / moving blankets on your tile floors inside and outside the shower. It protects your beautifully finished tile work from getting dust, dirt and silicone on it, but more importantly protects the glass from shattering. Tempered glass doesn't just crack- it explodes, and all it takes is knocking a corner into a hard tile surface, and BOOM.
3- Always keep a cup of water handy to cool down your tile bits when drilling holes. 3/16" and 1/4" carbide bits work great.
2- NEVER use a framing or metal hammer to knock in anchors. Use a rubber mallet instead-
3- NEVER use an impact driver- you can crack the tile or strip out the screw heads on your hinges like you did on the bottom hinge during your installation.
4- ALWAYS keep corner protectors on the glass corners when setting in place, even on shims. Once you've fastened the clamps to the glass you can cut them away- and use a little bit of krazy glue to adhere the gaskets to your clamps and hinges ahead of time.
5- ALWAYS use a clear setting block inside your top hinge to rest the door glass on. Just sitting the glass on the hinges without blocks can give it a treason to blow up.
There's many more tips and tricks I could expound upon, but I had to just put a few out there for anyone who is attempting this type of work.
I have been installing shower doors for 25 years, and have 17 employees currently.
Superior Shower Doors installs thousands of shower doors a year, and have seen way too many homeowner nightmares than we can count.
Safety first ! and keep up the good work Tile Coach.
Thank you
Great tips…& you guys installed two of mine in Lincoln!
You’re a class act my friend, great videos with great information, zero arrogance, zero attitude, just good vibes man, keep up the great work.
Right on brother. I'm a minute into video and read the description. Like it just for addressing the stigma of not having gone to college.
I had now clue how many people think building and designing is magic to them.
Makita gold bits Phillips all. The way.
Rock-on durock screws supplied t-20, I have eleven of them in bottom of spacer bucket
Definitely recommend putting hinges on the door first and dry fiitting! Grab your shims (7/16) set the glass door BEFORE DRILLING and make sure height is the same as inline panel. Once the height is correct you mark your holes by using a pen note you might need someone inside to mark your inside holes. This allows you to have a little more adjust in case you need to raise your door a little more to keep it flush with the panel. You can you a básic clamp to hold your your door up. Also I personally wouldn’t use the impact drill to put the 2 inch screws in because of bad experiences (cracking tiles). Just a few recommendations from my end but your work is also very good! Very clean and awesome work with the tile! It’s hard to find someone who does good tile work while leaving walls plumb! Cheers mate!
Awesome to hear that! 👌
Great job - I putter with reno's, but for those who do not have time, patience, or skill - your videos clearly show you are a professional. It's rare for me to subscribe - and I did.
My neighbor down the street just had his wife's son move in with them.. early 20's. He's been sleeping on a park bench the last 2 years. I've had a chance to talk to him along with his step-dad and we both recommended learning a trade skill as a way for him to find some focus. Will forward this video to him. The time you took to write out this video's description just may change his life! Thank you.
I’ve switched to Makita XPS impact bits. I’m a Milwaukee groupie, but these bits work best for me. Thanks for posting these videos
You shouldn't need a impact dril for this delicate finish work. Get a regular drill, one that you can shift into low speed for driving finish screws. Or all screws, less chance of slipping off the screw into your finger. just my opinion.
Very nice work sir, I watch all your videos and learn alot from you.
I've been a carpenter 37 years and learn something new every day.
Thanks
Good tip on putting silicone in the screw holes! Just getting ready to install a frameless shower door myself and the manufacturer missed that one in the instrructions. Also like the use of painters tape instead of trying to mark the tiles
Where you bought your frameless glass?
solid quality job, I got here because I was having issues with my shower doors rollers but I decided to watch your video I was impressed with your ability, very nice!
As a professional shower door installer i do have a few tips that will prolong the life of the door
1.you need to fill those holes in the tile with silicone as well as inside the clamp on top of the screw
2. The curb needs to be sloped inwards so that the water that runs down the glass runs into the shower and doesn't pool against the glass or run out
3. Test fit, test fit, test fit, the best way to make sure your glass will fit properly is to test fit the door with the hinges on the door and measure off the door the height and width and then test fit the panel to make sure everything is going to fit perfectly and will ensure the top of your door and panel line up perfectly so one is not higher than the other
4. There are many more tips that will save you thousands of dollars down the road
Any other tips for this project
@@evelynscott4955 this size can be done alone but having a second person will make it safer, never set the glass directly on tile or concrete, first measure your glass and opening to double check everything came correctly, place tape along the curb and wall where the panel goes and mark an even line on the tape across the curb (usually center or on a grout line) from that line at the wall mark up the wall a plumb line as high as the panel goes, put hinges on the door centered up and down in the cutout and test fit the door by setting it in place with two 7/16" blocks under the door, shim either side untill both hinges touch the wall while making sure the tile doesnt belly toward the glass too much, check the height at the stike side and the open space where the panel would go write it down, remove the door and make sure the curb has no protruding features like bellied or bumpy tile, test fit the panel on your line using 1/16 or 1\32 shims (may need to start taller if any features of the curb protude up to the glass) add shims as needed to make panel even with the wall measure gap where door goes and height at the stike.... This cannot sit lower than the door, if it does raise the panel to have a max 3/16 gap under panel to get to same height as door, NO SHORTER, if this all checks out make sure panel is held plumb and mark the center of the clamp cutouts on the wall and curb, make cross hairs at your marks so when you drill you will know where the center of your hole is supposed to end up so if your bit walks you can correct it, drill using a 3/16 relton "groo-v" bit (CRL calls them "super tips) fiberglass curbs will need to be drilled out with regular bits that match the size of the screw careful not to drill through a stud when the holes are drilled make sure the srew will fully thread into the hole, if the the screw isnt half threading into wood you should use a molly anchor, fill the holes with mold resistant silicone or CRL RTV408 (best) put in anchors and mount clamps with the clamping screw holes on the inside then cover the topst of the mounting screws with silicone, put gaskets in place and mount the panel with provided clamping screws with a hand driver (if it came with allen screws, they hold better but can strip easier) now using the 7/16 blocks and the same shims set the door in place with the other person insidemake sur both clamps touch the wall, your gap is even along wall and strike and the heights match, if not adjust panel as needed (if you were double checking the measurements at the steps i said to it should be perfect) line up door in line with panel by measuring panel to edge of curb and door strike to edge of curb and door hinge glass to edge of curb adjust till all three match perfectly, when satisfied place one and on top of the door up against the wall and manipulate the door without touching the panel untill the top of the door and panel are in line mark the hinge holes and drill, (may need to step up to a 1/4 inch hole depending on screws that came with door) fill holes with silicone and needed anchors, adjust door and tighten hinges, remove setting blocks, cut sweep and place on door adjust sweep down if needed to meet curb, mount handle, clean the glass wall and curb, make sure it is dry and silicone gaps on panel as desired wait 24-48 hours and enjoy
@@jesseking4815 I might have missed it but you said not to have the glass panel directly on tile. So what should it sit on once it's permanently secured?
@@OGCJ10 there are clear setting blocks specific for shower doors made of a rubber material in various thicknesses, use those to create a gap and adjust tilt
@@jesseking4815 gotcha.. Are those pretty much left in place and silicone over ?
Decent work man!, I follow you often..Two things..it helps to always use a spray bottle and a good spear-point bit when drilling holes in a hard material, which is used specifically for drilling holes in tile and glass. When you are drilling without a cooling method, you always risk cracking or damaging the tile by heat fracture...it happens....Second..I would install the hinges on the door, centered, and then move the door into the opening. That way there is never any measurements to take to line your door up. You simply get the door where it goes, plumb and level, then make your marks with the hinges already on..move the door out of the way, and drill. And for god sakes!, hand-tighten those screws..we’re all proficient in feathering the impact trigger, but if you ever slip or over-torque...you’ll have to change a tile or two.....you obviously do whatever you feel is best, but maybe for the homeowners out there wanting to try this for their first time..they may not want to rip their glass out to fix a broken tile, before getting back to the original job at hand.
I’ve installed over 300 plate glass showers of all shapes and sizes..it is never fun when you have to reorder glass or fix a tile....just my two cents!
Isaac Ostrom wood shims seem to work the best. You’re all over it, nice work!
Yeah man, impacts can be great, but can quickly cross thread, over tighten, and snap screws. I love them for taking stuff apart, but will almost always tighten/assemble things by hand, or with a good variable speed drill driver. Just so much better to FEEL what you’re doing, and make a correction before it’s too late, or you strip some threads, etc.
I would value your opinion. I am installing 4×12 painted glass tile in a shower . Got a 5 foot Kohler Cast Iron Pan , Full length wood backing behind the half inch Hardi backer board in the walls. Question : Would a glass tile break and fail by the weight of this same glass shower doors ?
If you have a good quality screw gun and you have a tremendous amount of experience using it, it becomes an extension of your arm and you can have VERY accurate control of it. But it does take a good quality driver to do this.
As for cross-threading goes, if you are used to gently touching the trigger to get a screw started you will know right away if the driver stops turning that you need to try reverse for a revolution to get the threads to match up and then try again.
All this almost goes out the window if you don't have a quality tool with a good trigger. If you have a tool that has a bit of a quick start when pressing the trigger only slightly, then you can expect problems.
Get good equipment and use it enough for it to become an extension of your body. Of course, there's times where you absolutely must be precise and must use a screw driver. Speed isn't always everything.
you are brave using your impact on stainless screws. If you break one off in the wall in can really mess up your day.
Also if you get some laminate flooring samples with the foam backing they are 7/16" and make a perfect shim for holding the door up while you tighten the hinges.
I love this channel and all the great info! BUT,,, plastic anchors and an impact gun, sheeesh. Not only the stainless screw risk of breaking but the plastic anchors are the cheapest method possible.
This is great work Isaac. I have 4 bathrooms that i have been wondering how to have the shower panels and doors done well and you have given me some great ideas and the confidence that it is doable. I hope i can get all i need here in Kenya. Thanks for sharing.
Looks stunning. I can only imagine the mess I would make trying to install the glass door and screen. First, drill slightly off correct position, followed by using blunt drill bit, crack the tile and off square door for sure! And that would be after hours and multiple runs to the diy store.
Beautiful tile install Isaac. The grout looks like it set up a bit too much before it was sponged imo.
Favorite bits are Vega bits. They last nearly forever for me. I buy them through Atlas Machinery in Toronto. Can probably be gotten elsewhere. Price is very good. I wish I could post a photo here. They are ultra slim, fit through electrical box punch holes easily. Machined precision.
I will say you get a good job on this install. I have installed hundreds of these doors and your is pretty informative. I would recommend siliconing the holes you drilled into the curb even though you siliconed the glass edge. Also recommend try attaching the hinges to the door and setting on blocks to set the door up to mark. Also have to keep in mind that glass doesnt always come in straight, they will warp in the heating process when being tempered and can belly or dive in and or out on top/bottom corners. I also recommend to us 1/4 wall plugs for when you hang your door, instead of silicone. I have seen doors sag a little because of the gap between the tile and the wood stud if there is one, and if there is no stud then you need a plug for sure! Just a little fyi. Ive been installing frameless euro shower doors for over 8 yrs. But Love all your videos man keep up the good work
Thanks! Yes, I have learned so much since I uploaded this video thanks to viewers like you!
Been installing shower doors over 17 years. For basic frameless. Less hardware is more. 3 clips on fixed panel only, clip on curb closest to wall is unnecessary. Those hinges are dated, use Geneva or Vienna (from CRL) with solid backplate for cleaner look. Square clips better. And always use BM8X8CH, BN (brushed nickel) handles with the metal washers. The plastic ones break too easily. Use wood shims to put up panels, once you tighten up the screws on clips, plastic shims are unnecessary. Plus customers might all you over to point them out, then you have to explain what they do and waste your time. Install door in line with the panel, adjust before marking and drilling holes. No need for a laser and tape on the walls and measuring for where everything is gonna land. Ain’t nobody got no time for that! Just put the panel up, mark the hole with the clip, drill it, put it up and repeat with the door. A pair of doubled up wood shims under the door should get you your height you want and space under the door for the sweep. Good job on the tile. I hope this helps you out in future installs. Also, Relton makes the best drill bits for tile. Use a 3/16 bit. We also use these for glass tile. If drilling in to porcelain or granite or glass, just keep em wet
Hi Matt - The shower glass guys that I have talked to all want to drill deep in the curb and penetrate the membrane. They say that the method shown here won't be strong enough and the silicone in the holes will be sufficient. Is this the industry standard or are there a lot of shower door companies that do it the way that Isaac does it here with the 3/8 in hole and cut screws?
@@tadelbridge we have always drilled through curbs. We have also for slab curbs drill a 1in down just to get through the curb and then cut screw bc some of our contractors don't want us to hit the membrane. But we have never had a water issue driving all the way through. But I drill through with 3/16 bit then backfill hole with silicone till silicone comes out the hole then clean then use a plus then fill again. Then ill install the channel use stainless steel screws then fill the channel with silicone all around the screw head. Then once everything else is installed will silicone glass to metal and tile/slab to channel inside and out. And as I silicone I double check to make sure I have no misses on my seal. We also fill the corners on wall side with silicone as well. I'm not a fan of clamps on the curb whatsoever because water can sit under the glass and in those clamps. I prefer channel on the curb (personally) but I have dont a ton of just clamps. I know some people like to silicone under the glass if using clamps but I don't like that bc most people are not diligent enough to always clean the curb and silicone can get moldy and then cleaning the old silicone out and resealing is a pain and I feel never looks as good afterwards. But I'm kinda picky about all that so wouldn't notice
Our experience with the similar installation, is to set up the water blocking strip where the door meets the panels so that the glass door opens inward. When it was opening outwards, we could not adequately control the dripping water from the door towards the bottom end at the hinges.
If we were to do it again, I would tell the person that the bottom of the door should have a very minor slope towards the hinges so that dripping off the glass door would be interior to the shower. We manoeuvred the bottom plastic gutter to guide the drip to the hinge side. It works with door opening outward.
The person who sold us the panels and did the installation was someone from the local newspaper. We tested with the shower spray before deciding to open the door inwards.
My shower glass guy would not have installed my glass if there was no 2x4 behind both sides. Nice way to not Penatrate the membrane. Nice job
Liked and subscribed at the very beginning. Key words - plumb level. Wish you were in my area. Pray I can find someone with your skill and patience. ❤️👍🏽
Hey dude! Very inspirational. If I werent an old dude, I follow your advice and take up the trade. Good work
In NZ the glass guys just silicone channel on and then wait 48 hrs,no drilling required ,they also hang the doors off of a smaller 7-10 “ glass panel with hinge cut outs on them. It is a much safer way to prevent breaking the waterproofing system
Good clean job.i just installed one shower door almost similar, but sliding. By the way, It was me that pointed out the Milwaukee drive bit. From my experience, Dewalt the best one
try to avoid touching rubber washers with fingers . we had cases where pure grease from naked hands made glas slip .
area where holders are should be cleaned with acetone as well :) . anyways awesome job !!!! clean work as always !!!!
Do you install it yourself?
The good brackets/hinges have the gasket or rubber packer glued onto the metal so it doesn't fall off
We do our installations the same except we put the door hinges on first then set the door and drill in place...!!! you did a good job looks good....we use reg 90% rubbing alcohol to tool our silicone , Ive seen some guys use glass cleaner, but I like alcohol .
Plastic shims can be pushed together to get just the right elevation and spacing. Use as tools for the install.
Best bits ever...HILTI. I do woodworking and im using impact drill all the time....never sissapointed fith HILTI.
Use your glass shims to create a gap between panel and door. I just tape 2 1/8" spacers tape onto the top and bottom. Perfect gap everytime. I also install the door in a closed position, hinges installed on the glass and tighten the screws up into the wall. We also install these doors by ourselves, so we use suction cups, they are great on plate glass doors.
@@TileCoach Drill or impact, 6 inch extension. Just to snug and then 1-2 hit past. BTW thanks for all the great videos!
Looks great but you made the install so much more tedious than it needed to be, also you are a brave man using an impact on tile.
Thanks for sharing Isaac. It’s very smooth. I am going to do mine too.
Where do you order the hardware, hinges, handles? Does the glass company pre-drill the hole for you?
I would highly recommend getting some glass cups for moving those panes of glass. They just make the whole process of moving the glass and setting it a bit easier, especially with bigger unwieldy pieces.
Cr Laurence makes pads you can put under the door during installing that have hand pumps so you can get you door perfect before tightening the hinges.
How to move?
my favorite bit is the one that I can find when I need it!!
I install those kits for a living. Try the CR Laurence 3 inch number 2 Phillips heads. You will have to order them online, they are one of the distributors for those hinges as well. It is the best fitting Phillips heads I have ever used hands-down
At 13:18 he says we have to adjust the door to bring it outward to close the gap, or bring the panel inward.
But he did not tell what actually he did.
I have a gap like that and I want to close the gap but before attempting to do that, I want to make sure I have right information as I will be doing that single handedly.
Very good video though, thanks for that, it's really helpful
Milwaukee 12v & 18v drills with dewalt screw tips has been my setup for years.
Carolina Glass from SC, Conway sends a big HI!!!!
Also, use silicon dipped screws on clips. CR Lawrences has great silicon.
We use Spade bits. They brake off if not careful.
Thank you!
Dude, you make it look easy, nice looking shower!!
You know it's good install when you can tap the tiles with a hammer 💪👍 good job !!!!
honestly bro was gonna knock you about the tile and hammer comment, but I checked your you tube channel beautiful work!!
I personally like using disposable #2 tips instead of those impact bits. All the brands round over just having a box full of tips that you can switch out works best for me.
I've always despised using silicone UNTIL the LAST minute of this video taught me a TIP I can't wait to try,.Denatured alcohol? Fml,the struggle ends finally
Using Maximo durable thin tile I kept cracking tiles when the door hinge was put under stress. In talking with my glass installer he said we must always use masonry anchors in the tile to cushion/stabilize the screw. I learned the hard way, hope this helps someone avoid my mistake 😂
Makita bits are the best man. I use all makita everything
You hit your thumb with the power screw driver?..... So...WELCOME TO THE CLUB...!!!
First of all, awesome video! Can you show how you measured and laid out for the hinges and holes for the hinges? Your way is way easier then putting them on the door and marking the holes while holding the door in place.
Hey! Thanks for sharing this helpful video.
Question: Do I apply caulk into the drilled rolls before adding the screws?
My husband and I will attempt to install a shower door we received as a gift for our firs home and we are freaking out about the complexity of this. Thanks in advance!!!
Great video Isaac. You make it look so easy. I’m just finishing up a total bath remodel and have been referencing your videos along the way - best ones out there, especially for tiling. However, the only part I’m not doing myself is the frameless shower door. I’m paying $1000 for just the installation which seems to be the going rate for these doors. After seeing this s video, I’m tempted to cancel the installation crew and do it myself (but I won’t because I already paid a large deposit). What is so special about frameless shower door installations that justify the exorbitant cost everyone seems to charge?
I'm right there with you about the high prices for framelss shower doors. I think that is due to the transportation and handling of the heavy glass panels. Installation seems to be well within the reach of a DIYer. I'm doing mine myself. However, I have not found a place to order the glass panels where the price of the materials is not close to what my local glass shop charges me to do it themselves. I compared a few places online, but the estimates I received was pretty close to what my local shop charges for installing it. So I see no point in doing it myself until I can find a place with prices that justify doing the installation myself.
EXCELLENT...THANBK YOU FOR TAKING YOUR TIME....
Nice demonstration. I didn't see any silicone going into the glass clamp holes. Even though you didn't penetrate the membrane, I would always seal the every hole that is drilled.
Was the hardware CRL?
Thanks for the upload.
TII
For the bits, I always get a bit holder with a to easily swap out bits, I prefer the shorter ones so they don't slip as easily. Also for the silicone I use windex instead of alcohol, does the same thing 👍
A few tips I would share, I install these for a living, Do not use clamps like the video unless the tile is as close to 100% true as you can get or you will regret it (huge silicone filled gaps) use U channel on the panel instead you can fit silicone spacers in there and use them to line your in line up (panel and a door). Another tip I would do if you have 2 guys is put your hinges on and handle while the other is setting the track or clamps for the panel, then help them set the panel and set your door on spacers line the height up within reason so your door isnt too high If it needs to be higher adjust the panel if possible with said spacers, then you set the door pre drill pilot holes remove the door drill the holes then set the door and screw it in, much faster and on a real job with imperfect tile it lines it up much cleaner. Last thing Get some good drill bits and water to dip them in between drilling because most tile is not subway and it takes forever with crappy bits usually you can find good ones on amazon, also get a rubber mallet much better than swinging a hammer against tile. The video looks easy but remember he has good tile work that he did in real production building this is not the case so If you want to do this yourself be prepared for the worst glass is true it doesn't bend or form to your opening and it gets expensive fast if you need to order a new door or panel etc don't get over your head and skip the installers if you are not prepared to pay for mistakes possibly made when ordering.
The Wera diamond tips are really good, they bite into the screws but it’s $50 for 10 ph2 I love them
So on the curb you didn't want to penetrate past the tile into the water proofing. But what about the hardware that goes on the walls? Looked like you drilled all the way through. What do you do about water proofing that? Is that silicone in the hole is all that is needed? And how hard is it to remove screws with silicone in hole? If you have kerdi board on wall, what do you do? Just penetrate tile and use anchors?
Somebody's heavy-handed with editing mid-sentences. Good info.
Yea, please 🙏 we lost a couple of good notes
Yep......That's what happens when you use the "dissolve" transition. It dissolves the audio along with the video. Hard cuts would preserve the trailing audio at the edit point.
great looking shower. nice job!
Hey Issac, if you're worried about slippage I would suggest Makita Gold's. They always them at Home Depot, at some point I want to upgrade to wiha's or any kind of engineered driven bit. Thanks for the content!
i like that when you say you're "out of plum," it's barely even off. #details
plumb ENOUGH to an ironworker... I I IOI I I I I
Great job on the shower, flawless...
The alcohol is a good trick , I’ve heard that silicone gets moldy and discolored because most people wet rag it with dirty water , not sure how true that is but regardless alcohol works better
My favorite bits are the free ones in the box of fasteners. I have a hundred
Love the video. Please tell me how you adjusted the door to tighten up the gap in the middle. Thank you
Your forearms are ripped as hell. Great training.
lol...I didn't know we were on the Work out channel....LOL
@@malibuglassandshowerdoorll7782 1:20
@@steamsteam6607 I know, just playin. He is in good shape. Funny you pointed it out.
I'm using Wera bits and those work pretty good as well as the screw driver set. Very nice job btw
We ordered the glass panels. The installer came and with a laser setup, took measurements that were to 1/16 inch accuracy. The panels were installed, about 1/16th inch above the floor.
The pan began about 1/8th inch inside. Silicon, and alignment, which was perfect. Everything is fine. Our shower door swings either in or out. We chose out.
Do you mind telling me where did you order the glass from?
How do you adjust it so that it only swings out ?
Hey Isaac thanks for all the videos. Enjoying watching your channel. Tile guy here and I’m wondering about your shower pan. I read below you said it was deck mud smooth finish? How is that Installed? Would love to see a video on that as I couldn’t find anything on here about that. Mahalo
Firstly, I want to say you have a nice and relaxed manner in front of the camera. It's easy to follow what you're doing and I have subscribed to the channel based on this. However, you should've shown us, at least briefly, what exactly you did to remedy the out of plumb issue. "I lifted up the bottom and pushed in the top" doesn't really help. I 'd like to know, how?
The glass panel doesn't sit on the tile. It "floats" because it is clamped in the metal plates of the glass clip. To adjust the glass position, loosen the screws, move the glass and place appropriate shims to hold glass until clips are re-tightened. Thin tapered shims help with this a LOT!!
@@willowmobilesystems4008 Cheers, appreciate the reply. I think I understand. The panel has some lateral movement when you loosen the screws. You just have to support the panel while you get it plumb. 😬
Hey there. Great video thanks. 1 question, water doesn’t leak out from between the door and panel? I usually use a pc10 to avoid that
A little water will come out if it hits the crack directly. But most of my customers would rather have that than another polycarb strip.
Try Wiha Terminator Impact Bits... I think I went 8 months of daily use on one bit. Then I misplaced it, it still had life left but was starting to slip. I am now using the second bit I have pulled out of the pack and loving it.
Chris V Wiha is good shit. Hard to beat German tools, German anything really
Very helpful and informative. Thanks for sharing this video.
T25's when possible. My fav. Good vid bro, thanks.
alcohol for silicone Definitely just learned something!
Use denatured
thanks for the video. when you size the panels. do you have to take the hardware into consideration?....like if the hardware will take up 1/4-3/8 of shower opening?
How did you adjust the door to close the gap at 3:18? There was a cut in the video. Also, why don't you caulk from the inside?
Isaac Ostrom is there anyway to adjust vertically as well? I have a shower door installed and it could use about a 1/4 inch raise but it’s not totally bothering me since it’s my first shower door install :)
@@radiospank These types of hinges have about 1/8" 'wiggle room'. If yours has been installed at the other end of the adjustment scale then by loosening both clamps *slightly* (only enough to allow the glass to move) and very carefully lifting the door up as far as the clamps will allow, you may get somewhere nearer to less annoying but 1/4" will not be possible. I'd advise a helper but you might get away with some plastic wedges to do the lifting if you are on your own. Do NOT use anything metallic to lift the glass directly or you stand a VERY good chance of breaking the glass panel. They really, really do not like point loads.
@@radiospank Depends on how much room you have in the hinges and or how much room was used on installation. Normally, when installing the hinge in the cutout for the glass, you try to center it. That way once installed if it has to move up or down, you get roughly 1/8" +/- using normal hinges. On heavy duty hinges you typically get a tad more. Beyond that, you could remove the hinge and try to grind down the interior block, but its hard to do and you should know what you are doing.
I like the herringbone design of the tile.. I wonder why you didn't do it all around?
Several good impact-bit options. I really dig Wera and Felo; the Wera’s come in a couple of varieties (I use the regular, not the diamond-coated-what have you’s) I really like that you can buy them twenty at the time. Felo makes some of the most excellent bits I have used; they are a little more spendy. Both can be found on KC tools.
I like to have a little glass of water nearby, and i just drill for about 5-10 seconds then dip the bit in the water, prolongs the bits by a lot
That's something I'd never have thought of
Fact
Yeah I tried that. Still burned up 4 bits. Took my 40 minutes to drill 6 holes. What a joke.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 use relton groo-v split tip bit or crl super tip
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 yea, depends on the tile
I use & am happy with the Milwaukee impact bits (usually check home Depot deal of the day every day anyway & buy a couple sets when they're 10$ or so for the set). Nobody has made an everlasting bit...yet😁
I also use mine for automotive, not pounding screws into wood (only impacting for a second to break free)...that probably makes them last a bit longer😁
@Supa Trending Daily my dad was a maintenance guy for apartments and said he rounded out screws with them... I've never had that problem. I wonder if he got one bad set and then stuck with DeWalt never looking back.🤔
nice install,and shower ,glad you showed it as we may need this glass on our zero entry ,hoping we dont,backing is in though
Hi.. this video was great.. did you pre-drill the glass yourself or were they ordered to specs? if you did yourself how did you go about drilling the door hinges? thanks..
Hi great vids keep it up. The tile drill bits work a lot better if you spray them with wter as you are drilling. Just a thought, cheers
thanks for the tip about denatured alcohol. I am ok with a caulk gun, but damn that silicone can be a pain.
I prefer to use slabs of granite or quartz at full 3cm thickness for the curb. DO NOT drill through the slab. Measure and leave about 1/8in by marking the drill bit. This helps ensure waterproofing is not compromised.
Good idea. I commented about this above. I don't see how tile can hold sufficiently. I would want my glass to be mounted in something more substantial (would rather compromising waterproofing layer than have brackets come undone). But your idea allows for both.
@@oicfas4523 never compromise the water proofing ever, the curb is the most know place to be compromised and to have a leak . the bottom screws holding the glass are to mostly hold the weight.
think about this let say bracket comes lose and some how the glass breaks, to make a new thicker curb and buy new glass few thousand dollars..
now let's say you puncture the water proof it leaks water for years without you knowing the 1 day you can't use the shower because the floor feels unsafe ..
now you have structural damage and I shower that size probably cost around 12k-17k in repairs and I've seen shower repairs high as 40k because all the floor joist rotted out .
@@handydandyhomes Some monetary cost is better than someone being severely injured by heavy glass falling or breaking on them.
This doesn't make it a true curbless shower then. You'll have an edge. That, or you plan to raise your floor about an inch.
I may be dense but would have liked to see the fix for the gap bw doors. Do the hinges allow u to correct easily like a cabinet hinge?
man , you are very good and a really clean job.
Dude.Freaking bravo! You make that shit look easy. I've been watching alot of your videos. You're very good at what you do.
He edites out all the cussing and struggling 😅
I would say I have tried all bits and best I found are from ace hardware #2 no slip and actually fits the screw heads .hard to believe. 😎
I really appreciate the video you posted. I am installing this same door on the weekend and this helps a lot.
I did the exact same injury to my thumb nail as well, right on the same spot slipping with an electric screwdriver. Luckily no nail bed damage. The black spot is almost now at the end of the thumbnail.
2:43 in " I don't like to use foam on the floor" So many of your newer videos tout the RSS Foam custom pans and wall system. Have you changed your approach or do you do both? Another great video, thank's Issac.
Great job Isaac, nice proffesional finish and very thoroughly explained with alot of attention to detail, keep up the magnificent work 👍
Hi. Try Bosch bits. They are amazing.
No need to thank me, just keep up the good work :)
Edit: forgot to say "Impact controll bits"
It's not the bit its the drill. Use a drill driver that can be switched into low speed and it will not slip off the screw. You sure don't use an "impact drill" for finish work.
Best way is to install all hardware on door and dry set door so to speak. Mark holes drill then mount
Hey where is the best place to order these doors
Tile is enough to anchor a solid glass door? That seems like it wouldn't work. If you have to go through the waterproofing, what can you do to finish it so it's still waterproof?
Shower looks great! Good hustle.
Looks Great! Question - is that curb slopped and if so, how does the glass hardware accommodate for that? Looks to be vertical and with a slope it would angle in.
Good point! Maybe the mounts come with shims for leveling?
Double edge sword
Only drill into tile only.
I didn’t do job was called in to repair it.
Installer only put screws into tile and 1 tile cracked. The other bracket was very lose. 1 yr after install.
What I do. Drill for length of screw plus 1/4. Fill half way red guard and install. Clean up any spill over.
Now I have been lucky to rip out a bathroom I did years and years ago
And it was 100% dry. Zero moisture or water underneath.
Also doing that job I put a water alarm system into the floor.
Customer loved the idea of knowing a alarm would go off before massive damage could ever occur.
FYI you better be very sure of your work to install a alarm.
You can set alarm up and even have zones. You can set it up to know where it’s leaking at. Curb. Drain. Corners. Under tile,pan.
And it keeps you honest
If you silicone behind the clips then you can go through the membrane. Also mount hinges to the door first and then set in place and mark the holes
@@TileCoach Yes use 1/2' shims to off set the provided sweep. If 100% silicone is good enough for aquariums then no ?
Do you mind sharing what hardware manufacturer you went with for the mount and handle? Excellent work!
thank you for very informative video sir.,. i learn a small tips from your video.,..
I always enjoy your videos. Both well done and educational.
Just curious why don’t you use collar stops/depth stops on your bits?
Have you put this into an application where there is no shower curb and the floor slopes from mid room to drain. If so, do you have a video.