I appreciate you tuning in and I hope to produce more content up to par 😄 I definitely agree with the cylinder heads, Edelbrock makes some immaculate aftermarket heads that flow much better than OEM. I’d love to have Edelbrock heads on my 300C, I’m currently searching for a nice pair that aren’t out of stock/on backorder
John 3:3-Jesus answered and said unto him, Verily, verily, I say unto thee, Except a man be born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God. John 3:7-Marvel not that I said unto thee, Ye must be born again. John 3:16-For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. ✝️🙏🏼🤍
Perfect video with realistic great information. Most are filled with garbage about a cold air intake and a tune will get you near. While a tune will definitely help and likely needed after doing the mods you gave to get the most of out everything this is definitely the best way to get there NA. If had some numbers on cost would be great but that differs from location and time of course. Thanks much for this video!
Just as a rough estimate on his costs… comp cam kit ~$1,600, long tube headers ~$2,000, ported & polished heads ~$2,500, and a tune ~$400. Assuming he got a torque converter as well, add another ~$700. Assume he did the work, ~$7,200. That’s not accounting for possible other components like a water pump, timing chain set, push rods, or oil pump. Along with install costs if someone chooses not to do the work $1,000-1,500 for the cam and components to do with it, $600-800 for the torque converter, another $1,000+ for the headers, and another $600-800 for the head install. Now those costs are for the jobs themselves, doing it all at once through the same mechanic will most likely save a buck or two as it won’t be as tedious and take as much time. The motor will be taken apart. So you could get quite a deal having it all installed at once. The cam in with all supporting mods, The headers onto the heads, the heads on, etc. it would be a bit easier on that mechanic. Installing something like headers by themselves may require something like the heads to be removed or the engine cradle to be dropped. Hope this helped. Have a great day!
Thank you for checking out the TH-cam content! And I really appreciate that, I’m hoping to improve the car tremendously over the next year or so! Any plans for your 06’ 300C?
Yeah, if I was educated more, I would've gotten the scatpack rt challenger over the rt challenger I have now. The scats power just made me smile and I want to put the same feeling- if not more- in my RT. I'll be keeping a lookout for the exact parts you recommend in your next video. With so many to choose from out of each category, I'm afraid to mess up. Other than that. Good, nice and simple video my man.
@@aaronmalloy9884 I feel that brother! There’s aren’t too many good comparison videos out there honestly. I’ve seen a couple but with many of the videos the 392 and 345 HEMIs look pretty similar in acceleration and ETs, but in real life, that’s not the case at all. I appreciate you watching man, I’ll be getting the more detailed video up here very soon! (I want to make sure I get all the information I can organized for the video so I can accurately articulate my thoughts) I’ll most definitely be including a whole lot of parts! (For both the Pre-Eagle and Eagle owners) as well as including even the smallest variations such as the Pre-eagle 300Cs making 340hp while the Pre-Eagle Charger R/Ts make 350hp, a slight difference but nonetheless still notable! And I know exactly what you mean, when buying parts I’m extremely weary and i usually research them for months before pulling the trigger, haha. I appreciate the kind words🙏 I’ll be working on improving the quality of the videos over time and trying to push better content overall🤞🏼🫱🏻🫲🏼
Thank you man🙏 I appreciate you and the kind words! I’m working on becoming better with the production of these videos (the upload schedule, recording, and editing!) thank you for tuning in and I hope to see you around the channel in the future!😄🕺🏼
What's wild, my 2015 RT challenger Super track pack 6spd came with LSD, suspension, an stock ecu "track mode," and everything else i need...but still a 5.7. So i could drop in a 6.4, or...i could make 550+ with the list you gave.
Actually, there are a few cams out there designed for our motors that can net you ~67 HP on and otherwise stock motor! You just have to spend some nice money as the non-mds cams tend to make more. A custom grind cam has been shown to net ~75 HP with no other modifications. If you go with a cheaper drop in cam that’s mds, you’ll gain about 50 HP and paired with the long tubes, you’d see in the ballpark or 70-80 HP gained. The camshaft I’m going with nets 70-75 HP on an otherwise stock motor but 6.1l springs are necessary. At that point a torque converter will be going in as well, the build process has been researched thoroughly for many many months. The stock stall is the most beneficial for the stock camshaft and drive-ability, one the new cam goes in, the next torque converter will be dropped in (3000 stall). At that same time I’ll be having my heads reworked, begs around 35-45HP. I’ll be doing all of that all at once, I’ll be doing everything except the torque converter myself as well 🙂 (I don’t want to deal with touching the trans as of yet so I won’t be doing the stall myself) the car will be fully converted into a drag car as things have finally lined up. She’s basically put away for the winter already and we’re working on making the build list become a reality. And yes, I had my family friend take care of it at his shop. The previous owner had things welded in place so me and my buddy doing it in his at home garage turned into make taking it to his shop lol. I 100% agree, Diablo is more sketchy and I’ve also heard that it’s a little more restrictive, I’ll be swapping to HP tuners in the future but for now I’ll be running with Diablo. I’ll be dropping a full video detailing the plans for the boat as the goal is ~900 RWHP & high 10s to low 11s in the 1/4. She’ll be being fully built. A blower will be going on very very soon!
@@Underdogbuilds which cams are those? Cause if i’m not mistaken longtubes are a supporting mod to a cam. I put in a cam in my truck that supposedly gained you 80hp. But what they dont tell you is about the supporting mods. Which are longtubes. I have a cammed r/t and it was neck n neck with with my srt with just longtubes. After i put shorties and catless mids on my cammed r/t it pulled on my srt with longtubes. I’m sure if i had put longtubes on my r/t the gap would be even more. And yes i have 2 5.7’s and a 6.1. 1 stock 5.7 and 1 cammed 5.7 and a 6.1 with longtubes
@@joellasierra there are quite a few cams that offer around 70 HP, the comp 274 cam with a nice tune up, custom grind MMX cams, etc. Long tube headers will always help produce better numbers but on an otherwise stock motor long tubes can net 15-20HP without a tune due to the natural scavenging effect, with a tune accounting for them and adjusting the A/F ratio you’ll see ~25HP+. With supporting mods, you can see as 30-35 HP+ Also, on an otherwise stock motor people have dropped in these cam kits and gained ~70 HP. @RTlife has really nice examples of many cars on his page. Long tubes will allow your other modifications to produce more power due to freeing up flow on the back end. The stock 5.7L manifolds are absolute garbage. Usually long tubes and a cam will be installed together, as well as heads. The 70 HP figure was a gain at the crank for the cam only, with the 17% drivetrain loss associated with the NAG1 transmission, that’s roughly 55-59 RWHP depending on a couple other factors as well. Also, that’s impressive for a cam only R/T to keep up with a long tube equipped 6.1L! Those shorties allowing your motor to pump more air more efficiently is where that extra spike in power came from. With long tubes, I’m sure the R/T would have made a bit more power and for sure pulled harder. My idea of supporting mods for a camshaft are valve springs, retainers, a torque converter, etc. but long tubes could be considered a supporting mod as well. They can also be looked at as an independent mod as they can net power even without a tune. (They also change your car from 3000 RPM on for sure) There are many different factors that play into the power numbers but the numbers for those cams are typically “stage 3” high lift, high duration, torque converter necessary type cams. I agree with your analysis, many of the cams on the market don’t produce the numbers that they advertise. People such as Mack built and MMX produce quality cams so you can 100% see those gains.
I really appreciate you watching, Thank you! I’m going to do another video to deep dive into some subjects! (Sorry for the late response pal, I’ve been in and out of the hospital with some family things)
Yessir it is! The more they sleep the cheaper they stay 😄 I love when I cruise through parking lots and people are genuinely shocked! We’ll be making improvements to try and shock some more folks!
Those numbers do look realistic after some dyno runs, prolly a fuel upgrade like 91 or ethanol would make a spike in the HP numbers too 💪🏿💪🏿 good video dawg
Thank you man🙏🤞🏼 I appreciate you! Very good point, those one piece driveshafts handle that power a whole lot better than the stock 2 pieces, as well as delivering it more quickly. I can’t wait until I grab one up!
Fbo 5.7 Vs stock 392 on any respectable tire is a win for the 392 fbo 5.7s still make less torque than these so it’s easier to launch them but I’ve raced countless fbo cammed 5.7s I beat them every time badly and I’ve only got a tune exhaust and intake 5 speed 392
100% man, this was more so a run down to keep up. I also forgot a couple things like a 1 piece driveshaft that would help slightly to keep up with those 392s. And a couple small things like the throttle body. Built nicely, with quality parts (such as a posi rear end, suspension, a full exhaust job including headers, a 392 intake, a shift kit, that 1 piece driveshaft, etc) and a good tune up in the car you could give a 392 a run for its money. Also, not to be picky but we’re they just FBO or were they FBO and cammed? FBO Hemis (intake, headers, full exhaust, & a tune) is ~70HP down from what I was trying to convey with a camshaft upgrade. That cam can change the game with a good tune up in the car and a great driver behind the wheel, especially seeing that with a cam the 5.7 would cease to shift at 5600 RPM and rather shift up at ~6500 RPM.
@@Underdogbuilds I’ve raced fbo cammed and regular fbos of course the cammed cars are more competitive but I smoke tuned 6.1s I’ve beaten tuned 10r80s I have some shorts on my page but the 5.7 always seems to fall behind a few car lengths. I just recently raced a quick 5.7 my tires were bald and I needed an oil change he was a head of me I was walking him down then he crashed I don’t think I should upload that video tho it was pretty bad
I think it’s a fantastic idea! Haha. I absolutely love the fact that it’s a possibility now. People have found ways to mount them previously but MMX came in clutch with that adapter kit! The one thing I do want to mention is the fact that the pre-eagle folks will need to have their valve covers tapped for an oil fill as the one on intake manifold will be removed. It’s a fantastic idea and I love to see it!
I’m based out of metro-Detroit and Congratulations on the 300C man! Life hasn’t allowed for much to be done based around the Chrysler in the last couple of months sadly but now I’m getting back into the swing of things (sadly as the cold fronts about to kill the season). I’m most definitely down to collaborate! We’ll have to see what we can get planned out! At the very least, next season we can collaborate as we will be hosting multiple meets & events based out of the metro-Detroit area. Cruises, Meets, and things like drag strip days. As well as attending meets & events hosted by others throughout the state of Michigan! Follow metrodetroitcarclub on Instagram, Snapchat, and Facebook to stay up to date on future Meets & Events📅 what city are you located out of?
The simple answer is 600HP, around 500-550 WHP. If you’d like to get technical, you could gap the rings and push up to 700WHP and then some. I’d rather forge the motor even though it costs more and will take longer. The transmissions tend to get upset at 550-600 HP, but a nice valve body from somewhere like Ding Racing or Southern Hotrod will hold 750+ HP. It’s rumored that the Dings Racing 200% valve body for the NAG1 transmission will hold 1,000hp. You me have to keep in mind the driveshaft and differential, they will eventually give out on you. This is typically around the same range - 500-600HP. Some differentials and 2 piece driveshafts hold together well and surpass these numbers and some don’t make it to these numbers. It all depends, I recommend upgrading the driveshaft before attempting too much power as you don’t want to test the limits and have it come flying off.
I appreciate you man😄🙏 if you’re ever in the Detroit/Metro-Detroit area, slide out to one of the meets I co-host! We’d love to have you come out!🙂 (@metrodetroitcarclub is the car clubs page)
Well I did a bunch of mods to my car and finally added boost a few weeks ago, now it's breaking lol 😂😢😭 my coolant temps are spiking randomly so I think the head gasket is gone. and I still have a few parts that aren't even installed yet 😕
That would technically be the smartest route, but some people don’t have the finances or some people would just like the entry level V8 to begin with and then get attached to that vehicle. I’ve also heard some people mention it’s for reasons to do with boost but both motors have to be forged anyways to withstand any notable boost so in my eyes it’s a moot point, people do mention it though. Although, another route that’s similar in price is going with a 392 stroker kit, depending on the market, labor, and network you have, it could be cheaper than trading up for a 392 equipped car.
@@Underdogbuilds my finances was good either but I still made it to the 6.4 and 5.7 rt’s can handle procharger with 7-8 pounds of boost no forged needed . But yeah a stroker kit is a good way to go too
@@JonathanDiaz-vm5mb I feel that, I just know some people are not willing to take that leap. Also, yessir 100% but I was thinking notable boost as in 10-12psi. With a good tune up people have pushed 9-10 psi on the stock block for a good little while but then again, there’s some people who were at 7psi for a year or two and their 5.7s blew. If people can make the jump, it is more cost effective comparing buying a brand new charger R/T and modifying it to keep up Vs the price of just grabbing the 392. The stroker kit is a pretty neat route if people have a reputable shop that can take care of them, but for those who don’t, it’s probably best to just swap up.
The 392 HEMIs come with a posi rear end 100%, they come with shorty headers from factory, 2015+ 392s HP peak is @ 6100 RPM and the TQ peak is @ 4200 RPM so somewhat in relation to the valve springs with the cam having you rev higher in the RPM band, they most definitely on average come with better/more wide wheels from factory, a lot of them have 8 speeds that feel in the 5 speeds after 1st gear so the shift kit is somewhat in relation to that, I forgot to mention a one piece driveshaft but it would definitely help shave off some weight as well increase responsiveness (and help prepare for future power), the intake manifold I threw in is a great mod for people to do if they’re willing to wire it up to use the long/short runner toggle. Then, lastly the 180° thermostat is a common mod to keep temps down (especially for guys like me with big ol long tubes heating up that engine bay) but the 392s do not come stock with one, that’s something the 392 guys would have to swap out/upgrade. I hope I included everything that you were wondering about🫱🏻🫲🏼🙂
I have a 12 rt awd charger with 118k. I feel if I did any of these upgrades, I’d have a blown motor or no more awd! Love the car, but the awd system isn’t upgrade friendly
You can upgrade the awd rt bro . I have a ‘14 awd rt at 130k miles and the stuff I’ve done to It so far hasn’t blown my motor . If you do shit correct and take the time to do research then you’ll be fine . Upgrade your 5.7 bro don’t be scared . Just do things one at a time
I’m sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment previously! You could get away with some modifications 😄 I do know the AWD cars are a different story than the RWD cars though. I have seen some AWD 300Cs racing, many of them are a bit limited in the wheel and tire department and such. I’m sure you can find some nice threads across some forums that will let you know the limits of the AWD system and such. I do understand wanting to leave it alone though!
100%! These builds typically are “brick by brick” per se. I’ve been doing research for 3 years now and I still look into things very precisely. There are so many avenues for these cars it’s ridiculous and awesome. I do know the AWD system is different than my RWD 300C, I’ve gotta learn more about the AWD models. I think it’s cool how they’re RWD until the system detects slip of some sort. I want to see a fully build AWD model that is built into a dig monster.
Sounds like a blast! What are your plans? I need another car with a standard transmission, I miss having 3 pedals. The next daily will probably be a standard, i need one in my life again lol.
Hey I have a 2014 rt with around 125,000 miles on it, my goal is to have a 500 hp engine is it worth even modding it or just swapping it to a 6.4. I want to mod it instead of getting a newer car because it’s paid off but I don’t know what I should do any advice?
You can most definitely make 500HP with that engine! I would say the quickest and all around least expensive choice would be boost in the long run. I know $8,000 doesn’t seem cheap, but the car can handle 7-8 psi with a safe tune up and produce 500-550 hp to the crank, typically 470-500 RWHP. I only say this because to achieve those numbers without boost, you’ll have to upgrade quite a bit more within your motor. For instance a cam, valve springs, retainers, a torque converter, CNC porting your heads, upgraded push rods, long tube headers with a nice catback, and a tune would set you just around 480 HP crank or more, but you’d be spending around $6,000-8,000 in that situation as well. If you’re concerned about milage, there have been many 5.7L HEMIs cammed around 120,000 miles that lasted well over 200,000 miles on a safe tune up. But speaking on the milage and internals, as well as you mentioning the displacement of the 392… you’re could opt to stroke the motor and that would replace your rotating assembly as a whole. That would give you piece of mind as well as giving you that extra power on par with a 392. This does cost a decent amount of money though, so a typical person would just slap on a blower. It can be problematic but it has been proven to be A-Okay even on motors up to higher mileage than yours. Some people have introduced forced induction to these motors around 160,000-200,000 miles and had them running for another 50,000-80,000 miles, all documented on forums as well. It’s all about which way you’d like to take your build but in my opinion, the cheapest, most direct, least stressful way to make that power consistently is a blower around 6-7PSI. I hope I could help 😃
I personally don’t think a LSD would be very beneficial on AWD applications. They have been installed on AWD Dodge/Chrysler vehicles based on some forum write ups that I have seen, but it wouldn’t be worth while unless you’re looking to disconnect the front drive physically. Also, there’s no option to change gear ratios with AWD, so you would have to stick with the stock gear ratio even if you chose to install a LSD. To be honest, I believe the money would be better spent elsewhere. I hope this helped, have a great day man!
I currently lay 11s with my oem diff as well, a LSD would just further improve the vehicle and I agree 100%. The wrong wheel and tire set-up can hinder performance rather than improve it, it all depends.
I got a 07 Chrysler 300c 5.7l and it’s not Reving past 3k rpm and doesn’t shift I’ve change the rear speed sensors and valve body the esp and the same problem it has the esp abs and trac control lights on 🤷♂️ need help
@@JR3600FRK I’m glad you got the shifting part of the debacle figured out! I got in contact with my buddy who works in corporate and I’ll let you know when he gets back to me. Hopefully we have some insight for ya 😄
So the pre-eagle 5.7L motors were produced between 2003-2008, starting it 2009 the VVT Eagle motor was produced. So anything 2009+ is eagle, 2008 or before is pre-eagle. Have a good day!
This depends on quite a few variables. The model year of your vehicle (pre-eagle vs eagle equipped vehicles), the parts that are chosen (i.e. reworking your current heads vs. grabbing something like Edelbrock heads), the tuner you decide to go with, the camshaft you decide to go with (if you need springs, retainers, and a torque converter or not), etc. I would estimate the cost to be $6,000+. This also can depend on the milage of your motor, if it’s higher milage it would be wise for you to replace the water pump, serpentine belt, spark plugs, and replace or upgrade the oil pump. The MAJOR deciding factor in the price of everything put together will be whether you install these modifications yourself or have a shop do it. If you’ll be doing it at home there’s the break it procedure that’ll need to be followed for the cam, extra fluids and such will be needed comparative to bringing the parts and vehicle to a shop and having them do it. But I would definitely say $6,000-10,000. If you have an older model that you got for something like $8,000-10,000 then this would be cheaper than getting into a 392 model, but if someone were to have a new R/T, it would be the equivalent of trading up for the 392 equipped model.
I appreciate you family 🙏🫱🏻🫲🏼 and of course! More informational content coming soon along with vlogs, part installs, part/product/vehicle reviews, and more! Im excited to have the car back out
😏😁 haha, exactly! There’s plenty of cheap 300Cs floating around to grab up and with the right budget and work, you could have yourself a Camaro SS, 392, etc killer at a fraction of the cost!🫱🏼🫲🏽
Thank you brother!🙏🏼🤞🏼 most definitely built>bought! I absolutely love working to make it faster, handle better, put down the power more smoothly and efficiently! It’s exciting
I’ll be touching on this subject in a video dropping here within the next couple of days! I’ll also be touching on it in another video to due with camshafts as if you’re going with a non-mds cam it’s necessary anyways. I dislike MDS and have a small part in the upcoming video that addresses it. 🙂🫱🏻🫲🏼
Man, those 6.1L HEMIs are some amazing units! I’d grab a 6.1L over a 6.4L HEMI any day in all honesty. They can both be stroked to a 426 in the long run if someone really wanted but I enjoy the 6.1L platform more than the 6.4L. It would have to be a BGE block for me to remotely consider touching a 6.4L HEMI. My buddy bullies scats with his FBO x custom grind cam 300C SRT8
They’re typically done together, but there have been many folks who choose to cam the car before long tubes. I personally think they should be done at the same time. Might as well save and get the intake, exhaust, and camshaft all at once if possible. I’ve seen folks who are cammed and/or running silly spray running stock exhaust manifolds and it never makes sense to me.
@@Twofrogsonecup long tubes will result in more power on the long run, shorties aren’t a bad option either though. If you have the money and you plan to build your motor I would recommend long tubes. Shorty headers generate better low to mid range power and they’re an easier install than long tubes. Long-tube headers make their power in the mid- to high RPM range and are superior to both stock and most aftermarket shorty headers. Equidistant long tubes result in better power gains and scavenging at the collector, if each primary is the same length they will be superior in total.
@@Underdogbuilds my dad had a 5.7 ram with shorties and a borla s type and I really liked the way it sounded, but if long tubes make more power I might go that route
True, i see your point on it being a monetary situation. Also, this video is naturally aspirated, no motor swaps, etc. if you research the cost of dropping a 392 in, you’d be surprised. Trading in for a 392 would be more expensive as well as swapping in a 392. Many people including myself view the 5.7L HEMI as a more viable option to build. The actual block will typically hold up better unless you go with a BGE 392, which is more expensive. There’s many reasons to build a 5.7L HEMI over a 6.4L, but most people do it because they already have the 5.7L motor. The idea of grabbing a 392 over stroking the 5.7L to a 392 or even a 397 is more expensive. Most drag applications use a 5 speed auto also, the 8 speed doesn’t interest me like it does most. That doesn’t include my main point, the first generation of 300s never had a 6.4L. I love this body, more than any generation of modern chargers or challys. And lastly, my goal since starting the channel is to see what this specific motor can do, once this motor cannot be improved or cannot handle what I’d like, it’ll be time for a 426 Stroker based off of a 392 BGE block. If this motor goes before a 426 is viable, a 392 would replace it rather than a 5.7 however. It’s honestly preference and convenience for most. (But check out modern red hemi, the 5.7L can outperform hellcats for relatively cheap comparative to the cost of a hellcat, ZL1, etc.) I hope you have a good day man!
Solid point. The main reasoning behind it would be the fact that most of the people in a 5.7 already don’t have the money to just dump to swap or stroke, it’s more so a progression throughout time type deal. I’ve also had some people tell me they’d rather have a built 5.7 over a built 6.4 because of specs having to do with the block. Personally, I want to see how far I can take a pre-eagle 5.7L on the stock block, then forged. There’s always time for more projects and fun in the future. I’d love to build a forged short block 6.4 with cnc ported heads, a hellcat oil pump, a hellcat blower, etc but it’ll all come in due time my friend
😂 you ain’t lyin! (I’m interested to see a 5.7L based 392 stroker vs. a factory 392. It would have to be contained to either NAG1 or ZF 8HP vehicles to be more accurate. Also, the model of the vehicles would need to be the same for accurate results. I’m curious to see how the 5.7L based stroker would compare to a 392 HEMI. The pre 2015 392s also made 15 HP less, but that’s somewhat minimal. 392 cars comes with a LSD from factory, which would be a slight advantage from a dig. An Eagle 5.7L HEMI based stroked would produce more power over the pre-eagle 5.7L just due to the Eagle heads being D port vs the small square port on pre-eagles. Just food for thought 🤔
The biggest bang for you buck would definitely be forced induction 🙂 procharger is a great supercharger, the kit is inclusive and bolt on as well. Especially if you own a stock 5.7L, it’ll be super reliable. These kits will set you around 470-500 RWHP, which scars make to the crank. So it’ll be no slouch! This is the most HP per Dollar you will get. Then there’s a multitude of options afterwards as well! I’ll be uploading a video this week called “how to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat”. It will not only include talking about that boost, but it’ll include other modifications to keep in mind to add power or perform better overall. I hope you have a blessed day my man!
Check out “How to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat”! The video is live now😁🫱🏻🫲🏼
Bro got car seats in back like me😂
Yessirr 😂 that dad life
Screaming facts. We sun kid hauling monsters. Kids in the back yelling “ dad go fast”
love to hear “go fast daddy”🥹🤣
This was the first comprehensive video I’ve seen about supe-ing up a 5.7. Take your advise plus some Edelbrock cylinder heads.
I appreciate you tuning in and I hope to produce more content up to par 😄 I definitely agree with the cylinder heads, Edelbrock makes some immaculate aftermarket heads that flow much better than OEM. I’d love to have Edelbrock heads on my 300C, I’m currently searching for a nice pair that aren’t out of stock/on backorder
Good looking my boi you most definitely dropping gems ….
I appreciate you family! A new video on the limitations of 5.7L HEMI powered cars is about to drop!
As a person in the market for one thank you for this video and God Bless! 🙏🏼
No problem and I appreciate you!🙏🏼🫶🏼 stay blessed!
John 3:3-Jesus answered and said unto him, Verily, verily, I say unto thee, Except a man be born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God.
John 3:7-Marvel not that I said unto thee, Ye must be born again.
John 3:16-For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.
✝️🙏🏼🤍
@@islandRT God gave his son therefore Jesus isn't God amen 🙏🏼
Got one for sale lmk
Perfect video with realistic great information. Most are filled with garbage about a cold air intake and a tune will get you near. While a tune will definitely help and likely needed after doing the mods you gave to get the most of out everything this is definitely the best way to get there NA. If had some numbers on cost would be great but that differs from location and time of course. Thanks much for this video!
I have an eagle Hemi, currently getting a stage 2 comp cam hrt kit, long tube headers, ported and polished heads and dyno tuned ofc.
how much does all of that cost
Ohhhh man, sounds like it’s going to be great! I see gains of 120-150 HP in your future! Has it been completed yet? I’m curious as to how you like it.
Just as a rough estimate on his costs… comp cam kit ~$1,600, long tube headers ~$2,000, ported & polished heads ~$2,500, and a tune ~$400. Assuming he got a torque converter as well, add another ~$700. Assume he did the work, ~$7,200. That’s not accounting for possible other components like a water pump, timing chain set, push rods, or oil pump. Along with install costs if someone chooses not to do the work $1,000-1,500 for the cam and components to do with it, $600-800 for the torque converter, another $1,000+ for the headers, and another $600-800 for the head install. Now those costs are for the jobs themselves, doing it all at once through the same mechanic will most likely save a buck or two as it won’t be as tedious and take as much time. The motor will be taken apart. So you could get quite a deal having it all installed at once. The cam in with all supporting mods, The headers onto the heads, the heads on, etc. it would be a bit easier on that mechanic. Installing something like headers by themselves may require something like the heads to be removed or the engine cradle to be dropped. Hope this helped. Have a great day!
👑👑👑I came from Instagram! Your car is amazing! I have a 2006 300C 5.7
Thank you for checking out the TH-cam content! And I really appreciate that, I’m hoping to improve the car tremendously over the next year or so! Any plans for your 06’ 300C?
I will be doing this video over in more detail🫶🏼
Yeah, if I was educated more, I would've gotten the scatpack rt challenger over the rt challenger I have now. The scats power just made me smile and I want to put the same feeling- if not more- in my RT.
I'll be keeping a lookout for the exact parts you recommend in your next video. With so many to choose from out of each category, I'm afraid to mess up. Other than that. Good, nice and simple video my man.
@@aaronmalloy9884 I feel that brother! There’s aren’t too many good comparison videos out there honestly. I’ve seen a couple but with many of the videos the 392 and 345 HEMIs look pretty similar in acceleration and ETs, but in real life, that’s not the case at all.
I appreciate you watching man, I’ll be getting the more detailed video up here very soon! (I want to make sure I get all the information I can organized for the video so I can accurately articulate my thoughts) I’ll most definitely be including a whole lot of parts! (For both the Pre-Eagle and Eagle owners) as well as including even the smallest variations such as the Pre-eagle 300Cs making 340hp while the Pre-Eagle Charger R/Ts make 350hp, a slight difference but nonetheless still notable! And I know exactly what you mean, when buying parts I’m extremely weary and i usually research them for months before pulling the trigger, haha.
I appreciate the kind words🙏 I’ll be working on improving the quality of the videos over time and trying to push better content overall🤞🏼🫱🏻🫲🏼
This is how a proper vid should be great job
Thank you man🙏 I appreciate you and the kind words! I’m working on becoming better with the production of these videos (the upload schedule, recording, and editing!) thank you for tuning in and I hope to see you around the channel in the future!😄🕺🏼
Informative video! Well done! I learned a lot! Looking forward to your next video....
Thank you very much! I appreciate you! Thank you for tuning in😄🙏
What's wild, my 2015 RT challenger Super track pack 6spd came with LSD, suspension, an stock ecu "track mode," and everything else i need...but still a 5.7. So i could drop in a 6.4, or...i could make 550+ with the list you gave.
Starting a wish list for my magnum 😂😂
😂 that’s exactly what I did! Just gotta slowly chip away at what you can! Good luck on your maggy build man, I’d love to build one!
Good job explaining💯💯
You have to do longtubes before cam and heads. Your cam won’t make 70hp without the longtube headers
Actually, there are a few cams out there designed for our motors that can net you ~67 HP on and otherwise stock motor! You just have to spend some nice money as the non-mds cams tend to make more. A custom grind cam has been shown to net ~75 HP with no other modifications. If you go with a cheaper drop in cam that’s mds, you’ll gain about 50 HP and paired with the long tubes, you’d see in the ballpark or 70-80 HP gained. The camshaft I’m going with nets 70-75 HP on an otherwise stock motor but 6.1l springs are necessary. At that point a torque converter will be going in as well, the build process has been researched thoroughly for many many months. The stock stall is the most beneficial for the stock camshaft and drive-ability, one the new cam goes in, the next torque converter will be dropped in (3000 stall). At that same time I’ll be having my heads reworked, begs around 35-45HP. I’ll be doing all of that all at once, I’ll be doing everything except the torque converter myself as well 🙂 (I don’t want to deal with touching the trans as of yet so I won’t be doing the stall myself) the car will be fully converted into a drag car as things have finally lined up. She’s basically put away for the winter already and we’re working on making the build list become a reality. And yes, I had my family friend take care of it at his shop. The previous owner had things welded in place so me and my buddy doing it in his at home garage turned into make taking it to his shop lol. I 100% agree, Diablo is more sketchy and I’ve also heard that it’s a little more restrictive, I’ll be swapping to HP tuners in the future but for now I’ll be running with Diablo. I’ll be dropping a full video detailing the plans for the boat as the goal is ~900 RWHP & high 10s to low 11s in the 1/4. She’ll be being fully built. A blower will be going on very very soon!
@@Underdogbuilds which cams are those? Cause if i’m not mistaken longtubes are a supporting mod to a cam. I put in a cam in my truck that supposedly gained you 80hp. But what they dont tell you is about the supporting mods. Which are longtubes. I have a cammed r/t and it was neck n neck with with my srt with just longtubes. After i put shorties and catless mids on my cammed r/t it pulled on my srt with longtubes. I’m sure if i had put longtubes on my r/t the gap would be even more. And yes i have 2 5.7’s and a 6.1. 1 stock 5.7 and 1 cammed 5.7 and a 6.1 with longtubes
@@joellasierra there are quite a few cams that offer around 70 HP, the comp 274 cam with a nice tune up, custom grind MMX cams, etc. Long tube headers will always help produce better numbers but on an otherwise stock motor long tubes can net 15-20HP without a tune due to the natural scavenging effect, with a tune accounting for them and adjusting the A/F ratio you’ll see ~25HP+. With supporting mods, you can see as 30-35 HP+ Also, on an otherwise stock motor people have dropped in these cam kits and gained ~70 HP. @RTlife has really nice examples of many cars on his page. Long tubes will allow your other modifications to produce more power due to freeing up flow on the back end. The stock 5.7L manifolds are absolute garbage. Usually long tubes and a cam will be installed together, as well as heads. The 70 HP figure was a gain at the crank for the cam only, with the 17% drivetrain loss associated with the NAG1 transmission, that’s roughly 55-59 RWHP depending on a couple other factors as well. Also, that’s impressive for a cam only R/T to keep up with a long tube equipped 6.1L! Those shorties allowing your motor to pump more air more efficiently is where that extra spike in power came from. With long tubes, I’m sure the R/T would have made a bit more power and for sure pulled harder. My idea of supporting mods for a camshaft are valve springs, retainers, a torque converter, etc. but long tubes could be considered a supporting mod as well. They can also be looked at as an independent mod as they can net power even without a tune. (They also change your car from 3000 RPM on for sure) There are many different factors that play into the power numbers but the numbers for those cams are typically “stage 3” high lift, high duration, torque converter necessary type cams. I agree with your analysis, many of the cams on the market don’t produce the numbers that they advertise. People such as Mack built and MMX produce quality cams so you can 100% see those gains.
Spitting game
I appreciate you🤞🏼🙏 New videos of this nature coming very soon as well as a video dropping by the end of the weekend!
Bro knows!!
My car is identical to yours I got mmx custom ground cam, eagle heads ported, eagle intake, arh long tubes , hp tuners I made 440 to the engine.
Excellent video pal. Very informative
I really appreciate you watching, Thank you! I’m going to do another video to deep dive into some subjects! (Sorry for the late response pal, I’ve been in and out of the hospital with some family things)
it's good to have a sleeper
Yessir it is! The more they sleep the cheaper they stay 😄 I love when I cruise through parking lots and people are genuinely shocked! We’ll be making improvements to try and shock some more folks!
Those numbers do look realistic after some dyno runs, prolly a fuel upgrade like 91 or ethanol would make a spike in the HP numbers too 💪🏿💪🏿 good video dawg
Thanks dude. I think my hemi is cammed and tuned or not tuned.. it diesnt shift in any gear past 1/2 throttle.. and im pretty sure it revs past 6000
Good Job
Thank you, I appreciate you giving the video a watch!🙂🙏
Great video man 🔥🔥 I'd also add a DSS 1-piece to your list here and you should be all set
Thank you man🙏🤞🏼 I appreciate you! Very good point, those one piece driveshafts handle that power a whole lot better than the stock 2 pieces, as well as delivering it more quickly. I can’t wait until I grab one up!
Nice vid man 🔥
Thank you, I really appreciate it man!🙏🏼
Fbo 5.7 Vs stock 392 on any respectable tire is a win for the 392 fbo 5.7s still make less torque than these so it’s easier to launch them but I’ve raced countless fbo cammed 5.7s I beat them every time badly and I’ve only got a tune exhaust and intake 5 speed 392
100% man, this was more so a run down to keep up. I also forgot a couple things like a 1 piece driveshaft that would help slightly to keep up with those 392s. And a couple small things like the throttle body. Built nicely, with quality parts (such as a posi rear end, suspension, a full exhaust job including headers, a 392 intake, a shift kit, that 1 piece driveshaft, etc) and a good tune up in the car you could give a 392 a run for its money.
Also, not to be picky but we’re they just FBO or were they FBO and cammed? FBO Hemis (intake, headers, full exhaust, & a tune) is ~70HP down from what I was trying to convey with a camshaft upgrade. That cam can change the game with a good tune up in the car and a great driver behind the wheel, especially seeing that with a cam the 5.7 would cease to shift at 5600 RPM and rather shift up at ~6500 RPM.
Sometimes its the driver because I have beat plenty 392s even 5.0s & SS sometimes its the driver mod 🤷🏽♂️
@@Underdogbuilds I’ve raced fbo cammed and regular fbos of course the cammed cars are more competitive but I smoke tuned 6.1s I’ve beaten tuned 10r80s I have some shorts on my page but the 5.7 always seems to fall behind a few car lengths. I just recently raced a quick 5.7 my tires were bald and I needed an oil change he was a head of me I was walking him down then he crashed I don’t think I should upload that video tho it was pretty bad
@@Amg_leftyyyou most definitely should upload that video
What do you think about putting a hellcat blower on a 5.7 ?
I think it’s a fantastic idea! Haha. I absolutely love the fact that it’s a possibility now. People have found ways to mount them previously but MMX came in clutch with that adapter kit! The one thing I do want to mention is the fact that the pre-eagle folks will need to have their valve covers tapped for an oil fill as the one on intake manifold will be removed. It’s a fantastic idea and I love to see it!
@@Underdogbuilds I have a 2014 5.7 RT auto how much HP do you think the hellcat blower will add on top ?
Hey so I’m thinking about grabbed a 08 Chrysler 300c hemi could you tell me the right setup exhaust etc for the car to keep up
saw the michigan license plate in a video, what city you in? i just got my 07 300c last week, lets collab soon💯
I’m based out of metro-Detroit and Congratulations on the 300C man! Life hasn’t allowed for much to be done based around the Chrysler in the last couple of months sadly but now I’m getting back into the swing of things (sadly as the cold fronts about to kill the season). I’m most definitely down to collaborate! We’ll have to see what we can get planned out! At the very least, next season we can collaborate as we will be hosting multiple meets & events based out of the metro-Detroit area. Cruises, Meets, and things like drag strip days. As well as attending meets & events hosted by others throughout the state of Michigan! Follow metrodetroitcarclub on Instagram, Snapchat, and Facebook to stay up to date on future Meets & Events📅 what city are you located out of?
what can the 5.7L HEMI handle power wise? love the videos, keep it up man!
Up to 600 before shit gets real inside of the block and blow on you
The simple answer is 600HP, around 500-550 WHP. If you’d like to get technical, you could gap the rings and push up to 700WHP and then some. I’d rather forge the motor even though it costs more and will take longer. The transmissions tend to get upset at 550-600 HP, but a nice valve body from somewhere like Ding Racing or Southern Hotrod will hold 750+ HP. It’s rumored that the Dings Racing 200% valve body for the NAG1 transmission will hold 1,000hp. You me have to keep in mind the driveshaft and differential, they will eventually give out on you. This is typically around the same range - 500-600HP. Some differentials and 2 piece driveshafts hold together well and surpass these numbers and some don’t make it to these numbers. It all depends, I recommend upgrading the driveshaft before attempting too much power as you don’t want to test the limits and have it come flying off.
Yessirr!
wish i knew you in person 😭
I appreciate you man😄🙏 if you’re ever in the Detroit/Metro-Detroit area, slide out to one of the meets I co-host! We’d love to have you come out!🙂 (@metrodetroitcarclub is the car clubs page)
Stupid question 🙋. Does this apply too the DD also.
Well I did a bunch of mods to my car and finally added boost a few weeks ago, now it's breaking lol 😂😢😭 my coolant temps are spiking randomly so I think the head gasket is gone. and I still have a few parts that aren't even installed yet 😕
What camshaft would you recommend for a 2013 5.7 300s
Just get a 6.4 I had the 2016 v6 se , 2016 v8 rt road and track and now scatpack r/t plus
That would technically be the smartest route, but some people don’t have the finances or some people would just like the entry level V8 to begin with and then get attached to that vehicle. I’ve also heard some people mention it’s for reasons to do with boost but both motors have to be forged anyways to withstand any notable boost so in my eyes it’s a moot point, people do mention it though. Although, another route that’s similar in price is going with a 392 stroker kit, depending on the market, labor, and network you have, it could be cheaper than trading up for a 392 equipped car.
@@Underdogbuilds my finances was good either but I still made it to the 6.4 and 5.7 rt’s can handle procharger with 7-8 pounds of boost no forged needed . But yeah a stroker kit is a good way to go too
@@JonathanDiaz-vm5mb I feel that, I just know some people are not willing to take that leap. Also, yessir 100% but I was thinking notable boost as in 10-12psi. With a good tune up people have pushed 9-10 psi on the stock block for a good little while but then again, there’s some people who were at 7psi for a year or two and their 5.7s blew. If people can make the jump, it is more cost effective comparing buying a brand new charger R/T and modifying it to keep up Vs the price of just grabbing the 392. The stroker kit is a pretty neat route if people have a reputable shop that can take care of them, but for those who don’t, it’s probably best to just swap up.
I have a 2014 300s 5.7 awd
Not that it makes any actual difference, but as a point of reference; do the 392s or better have these mods as stock engine specs?
The 392 HEMIs come with a posi rear end 100%, they come with shorty headers from factory, 2015+ 392s HP peak is @ 6100 RPM and the TQ peak is @ 4200 RPM so somewhat in relation to the valve springs with the cam having you rev higher in the RPM band, they most definitely on average come with better/more wide wheels from factory, a lot of them have 8 speeds that feel in the 5 speeds after 1st gear so the shift kit is somewhat in relation to that, I forgot to mention a one piece driveshaft but it would definitely help shave off some weight as well increase responsiveness (and help prepare for future power), the intake manifold I threw in is a great mod for people to do if they’re willing to wire it up to use the long/short runner toggle. Then, lastly the 180° thermostat is a common mod to keep temps down (especially for guys like me with big ol long tubes heating up that engine bay) but the 392s do not come stock with one, that’s something the 392 guys would have to swap out/upgrade.
I hope I included everything that you were wondering about🫱🏻🫲🏼🙂
I think the 5.7and the 6.4 engine is the same that is got different internals that's what makes them faster
It can be argued the 5.7 has better internals which is why they handle boost better then 6.4l, 6.4 just has a bigger bore for obvious reasons
Good vid
Thank you! I appreciate you tuning in to watch, we have many many more videos on the way! (First car meet vlog coming June 11th!)
I just wanna build my 5.7 to a 6.1
I’ll definitely make a video on how to make a 5.7L as quick as a 6.1L 😄
I have a 12 rt awd charger with 118k. I feel if I did any of these upgrades, I’d have a blown motor or no more awd! Love the car, but the awd system isn’t upgrade friendly
You can upgrade the awd rt bro . I have a ‘14 awd rt at 130k miles and the stuff I’ve done to It so far hasn’t blown my motor . If you do shit correct and take the time to do research then you’ll be fine . Upgrade your 5.7 bro don’t be scared . Just do things one at a time
I’m sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment previously! You could get away with some modifications 😄 I do know the AWD cars are a different story than the RWD cars though. I have seen some AWD 300Cs racing, many of them are a bit limited in the wheel and tire department and such. I’m sure you can find some nice threads across some forums that will let you know the limits of the AWD system and such. I do understand wanting to leave it alone though!
100%! These builds typically are “brick by brick” per se. I’ve been doing research for 3 years now and I still look into things very precisely. There are so many avenues for these cars it’s ridiculous and awesome. I do know the AWD system is different than my RWD 300C, I’ve gotta learn more about the AWD models. I think it’s cool how they’re RWD until the system detects slip of some sort. I want to see a fully build AWD model that is built into a dig monster.
My 6sp has a 3.90 Limited Slip, The Engine Mods are Coming!
Sounds like a blast! What are your plans? I need another car with a standard transmission, I miss having 3 pedals. The next daily will probably be a standard, i need one in my life again lol.
Hey I have a 2014 rt with around 125,000 miles on it, my goal is to have a 500 hp engine is it worth even modding it or just swapping it to a 6.4. I want to mod it instead of getting a newer car because it’s paid off but I don’t know what I should do any advice?
You can most definitely make 500HP with that engine! I would say the quickest and all around least expensive choice would be boost in the long run. I know $8,000 doesn’t seem cheap, but the car can handle 7-8 psi with a safe tune up and produce 500-550 hp to the crank, typically 470-500 RWHP. I only say this because to achieve those numbers without boost, you’ll have to upgrade quite a bit more within your motor. For instance a cam, valve springs, retainers, a torque converter, CNC porting your heads, upgraded push rods, long tube headers with a nice catback, and a tune would set you just around 480 HP crank or more, but you’d be spending around $6,000-8,000 in that situation as well. If you’re concerned about milage, there have been many 5.7L HEMIs cammed around 120,000 miles that lasted well over 200,000 miles on a safe tune up. But speaking on the milage and internals, as well as you mentioning the displacement of the 392… you’re could opt to stroke the motor and that would replace your rotating assembly as a whole. That would give you piece of mind as well as giving you that extra power on par with a 392. This does cost a decent amount of money though, so a typical person would just slap on a blower. It can be problematic but it has been proven to be A-Okay even on motors up to higher mileage than yours. Some people have introduced forced induction to these motors around 160,000-200,000 miles and had them running for another 50,000-80,000 miles, all documented on forums as well. It’s all about which way you’d like to take your build but in my opinion, the cheapest, most direct, least stressful way to make that power consistently is a blower around 6-7PSI. I hope I could help 😃
@@Underdogbuilds you most definitely did I appreciate you fr🫶🏾
I got a 2016 AWD 5.7 with 370HP should i still get a LSD even with the AWD
I personally don’t think a LSD would be very beneficial on AWD applications. They have been installed on AWD Dodge/Chrysler vehicles based on some forum write ups that I have seen, but it wouldn’t be worth while unless you’re looking to disconnect the front drive physically. Also, there’s no option to change gear ratios with AWD, so you would have to stick with the stock gear ratio even if you chose to install a LSD. To be honest, I believe the money would be better spent elsewhere. I hope this helped, have a great day man!
Thanks bro, but I do plan to get a tazer so I CAN have that on/off option. But I’ll definitely keep in mind what you said. 🫡💯
Where do I even start as someone who doesn’t know engines or about different parts
Who's car is that in the video it's nice
Good tune helps a lot. Hmu, I'll get you dialed in!
Yo what’s your insta
A good tune is most definitely needed🤞🏼
@@beastmode5814 search my name
Wider tires can aid that open diff.. i can smoke mine leaving 2 black lines :) with my ebay 3.06 open dif.. 350 bucks
I currently lay 11s with my oem diff as well, a LSD would just further improve the vehicle and I agree 100%. The wrong wheel and tire set-up can hinder performance rather than improve it, it all depends.
Tell,em!!!
lmfao bradley cooper character
I got a 07 Chrysler 300c 5.7l and it’s not Reving past 3k rpm and doesn’t shift I’ve change the rear speed sensors and valve body the esp and the same problem it has the esp abs and trac control lights on 🤷♂️ need help
I strongly believe what you’re dealing with is a TCM issue. My buddy has dealt with the same issue in his 06 Charger SRT8
@@Underdogbuilds I’ve changed it too Tcm esp module
@@Underdogbuilds but it’s shifting now it was a wire that was chewed up and now it shifts but still not reving past 3k rpm
@@JR3600FRK I’m glad you got the shifting part of the debacle figured out! I got in contact with my buddy who works in corporate and I’ll let you know when he gets back to me. Hopefully we have some insight for ya 😄
What year are the pre/current eagle 5.7 engines?
So the pre-eagle 5.7L motors were produced between 2003-2008, starting it 2009 the VVT Eagle motor was produced. So anything 2009+ is eagle, 2008 or before is pre-eagle. Have a good day!
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Oh yeah one thing i forgot that transmission kit can handle up to 1300hp with same match transmission and everything so y’all think that frfr
Hi, how much do these modifications cost?
This depends on quite a few variables. The model year of your vehicle (pre-eagle vs eagle equipped vehicles), the parts that are chosen (i.e. reworking your current heads vs. grabbing something like Edelbrock heads), the tuner you decide to go with, the camshaft you decide to go with (if you need springs, retainers, and a torque converter or not), etc. I would estimate the cost to be $6,000+. This also can depend on the milage of your motor, if it’s higher milage it would be wise for you to replace the water pump, serpentine belt, spark plugs, and replace or upgrade the oil pump. The MAJOR deciding factor in the price of everything put together will be whether you install these modifications yourself or have a shop do it. If you’ll be doing it at home there’s the break it procedure that’ll need to be followed for the cam, extra fluids and such will be needed comparative to bringing the parts and vehicle to a shop and having them do it. But I would definitely say $6,000-10,000. If you have an older model that you got for something like $8,000-10,000 then this would be cheaper than getting into a 392 model, but if someone were to have a new R/T, it would be the equivalent of trading up for the 392 equipped model.
@@Underdogbuilds Thanks, I would definitely consider these
Does it matter if you get a all-wheel drive RT or a rear wheel drive rt?
All wheel drive will be faster since you'll get traction easier. But u won't be able to swing it which is hella fun
👍👍
🙏🫱🏻🫲🏼🤞🏼
w vid
Thanks, w manz 🙏🤞🏼
Thank you for tuning in!
I fucc with you bruh thx ❤
I appreciate you family 🙏🫱🏻🫲🏼 and of course! More informational content coming soon along with vlogs, part installs, part/product/vehicle reviews, and more! Im excited to have the car back out
He putting you up on game because its a fleet of 300C for cheap so you can run through them to perfect your craft 😏
Dropping gems! Built not bought 🔥😤😈
😏😁 haha, exactly! There’s plenty of cheap 300Cs floating around to grab up and with the right budget and work, you could have yourself a Camaro SS, 392, etc killer at a fraction of the cost!🫱🏼🫲🏽
Thank you brother!🙏🏼🤞🏼 most definitely built>bought! I absolutely love working to make it faster, handle better, put down the power more smoothly and efficiently! It’s exciting
🙏🏼🤞🏼I appreciate you, thank you for tuning in to the video!
Stop putting out these vids
Who's black Challenger is that
You didnt mention mds deletes
I’ll be touching on this subject in a video dropping here within the next couple of days! I’ll also be touching on it in another video to due with camshafts as if you’re going with a non-mds cam it’s necessary anyways. I dislike MDS and have a small part in the upcoming video that addresses it. 🙂🫱🏻🫲🏼
💯🔥🔥
🙏🏼🤞🏼 I appreciate you man!!!
Throttle body n fuel injection will bring up 520
Yessir, especially a flex fuel kit. Running that E will of course keep your running cooler, manage detonation, and burn way cleaner!😄
I'm spanking 6.4's with my built 6.1.....
Man, those 6.1L HEMIs are some amazing units! I’d grab a 6.1L over a 6.4L HEMI any day in all honesty. They can both be stroked to a 426 in the long run if someone really wanted but I enjoy the 6.1L platform more than the 6.4L. It would have to be a BGE block for me to remotely consider touching a 6.4L HEMI. My buddy bullies scats with his FBO x custom grind cam 300C SRT8
Lets not forget brakes....lol.....Its cool to go fast, its not cool when you cant stop quick enough...😂😂😂😂😂
Lol 5.7 dudes are doomed if you are doing a cam swap before long tube headers. Whoever told you that doesn't have a clue.
They’re typically done together, but there have been many folks who choose to cam the car before long tubes. I personally think they should be done at the same time. Might as well save and get the intake, exhaust, and camshaft all at once if possible. I’ve seen folks who are cammed and/or running silly spray running stock exhaust manifolds and it never makes sense to me.
@@Underdogbuildsso you would recommend long tubes over short tubes?
@@Twofrogsonecup long tubes will result in more power on the long run, shorties aren’t a bad option either though. If you have the money and you plan to build your motor I would recommend long tubes. Shorty headers generate better low to mid range power and they’re an easier install than long tubes. Long-tube headers make their power in the mid- to high RPM range and are superior to both stock and most aftermarket shorty headers. Equidistant long tubes result in better power gains and scavenging at the collector, if each primary is the same length they will be superior in total.
@@Underdogbuilds my dad had a 5.7 ram with shorties and a borla s type and I really liked the way it sounded, but if long tubes make more power I might go that route
Lol you can make a prius faster than a 392. It all about how much you willing to spend. Dumping money into a r/t instead of a 392 is odd.
True, i see your point on it being a monetary situation. Also, this video is naturally aspirated, no motor swaps, etc. if you research the cost of dropping a 392 in, you’d be surprised. Trading in for a 392 would be more expensive as well as swapping in a 392. Many people including myself view the 5.7L HEMI as a more viable option to build. The actual block will typically hold up better unless you go with a BGE 392, which is more expensive. There’s many reasons to build a 5.7L HEMI over a 6.4L, but most people do it because they already have the 5.7L motor. The idea of grabbing a 392 over stroking the 5.7L to a 392 or even a 397 is more expensive. Most drag applications use a 5 speed auto also, the 8 speed doesn’t interest me like it does most. That doesn’t include my main point, the first generation of 300s never had a 6.4L. I love this body, more than any generation of modern chargers or challys. And lastly, my goal since starting the channel is to see what this specific motor can do, once this motor cannot be improved or cannot handle what I’d like, it’ll be time for a 426 Stroker based off of a 392 BGE block. If this motor goes before a 426 is viable, a 392 would replace it rather than a 5.7 however. It’s honestly preference and convenience for most. (But check out modern red hemi, the 5.7L can outperform hellcats for relatively cheap comparative to the cost of a hellcat, ZL1, etc.) I hope you have a good day man!
Why not just buy the proper motor? With what all of this will cost you may as well buy a bigger better setup.
Solid point. The main reasoning behind it would be the fact that most of the people in a 5.7 already don’t have the money to just dump to swap or stroke, it’s more so a progression throughout time type deal. I’ve also had some people tell me they’d rather have a built 5.7 over a built 6.4 because of specs having to do with the block. Personally, I want to see how far I can take a pre-eagle 5.7L on the stock block, then forged. There’s always time for more projects and fun in the future. I’d love to build a forged short block 6.4 with cnc ported heads, a hellcat oil pump, a hellcat blower, etc but it’ll all come in due time my friend
@@Underdogbuilds gotcha
Add .7 hemi duh😂
😂 you ain’t lyin! (I’m interested to see a 5.7L based 392 stroker vs. a factory 392. It would have to be contained to either NAG1 or ZF 8HP vehicles to be more accurate. Also, the model of the vehicles would need to be the same for accurate results. I’m curious to see how the 5.7L based stroker would compare to a 392 HEMI. The pre 2015 392s also made 15 HP less, but that’s somewhat minimal. 392 cars comes with a LSD from factory, which would be a slight advantage from a dig. An Eagle 5.7L HEMI based stroked would produce more power over the pre-eagle 5.7L just due to the Eagle heads being D port vs the small square port on pre-eagles. Just food for thought 🤔
why not just buy a 6.4.
Take off the hat get a hair cut
I’m good. 👍🏼
Im trying to build my R/T for cheap and reliable should I just get a procharger 😅 🥲
The biggest bang for you buck would definitely be forced induction 🙂
procharger is a great supercharger, the kit is inclusive and bolt on as well. Especially if you own a stock 5.7L, it’ll be super reliable. These kits will set you around 470-500 RWHP, which scars make to the crank. So it’ll be no slouch! This is the most HP per Dollar you will get. Then there’s a multitude of options afterwards as well! I’ll be uploading a video this week called “how to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat”. It will not only include talking about that boost, but it’ll include other modifications to keep in mind to add power or perform better overall. I hope you have a blessed day my man!