My father in law had a 2008 ram hemi that is now in our possession he used it daily for work and personal use he took care of that truck religiously and at 512xxx miles piston rings finally decided to leave the chat room so I agree 100% with proper maintenance engines will last longer. Now time for a rebuild I will keep these tips in mind during the rebuild. Like the saying goes “you take care of it, it will take care of you”
This video has touched on ALOT of different causes and issues! Very well detailed and informative! Although I do recommend having pictures and videos posted up on screen for more visualization capture just so more people can grasp and understand the informative details alot more better, for future videos ofc, but other than that, fantastic video!! 👌🔥
I got 300,000 on my 03 hemi. It still takes me every were .. I just got another motor from wreck yard I trust. Looking to upgrade and give it a refresh. Thanks for content
That’s impressive! I’m happy it’s served you well, you must be on top of your maintenance like I am, haha! Sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment before. Do you plan to replace the lifters and cam for the most part or were you going to throw new pumps and a timing chain at it as well? I hope things are going well with the 03’!
@@Underdogbuilds My family used to own a 2003 ram 2500 hemi and it had 300,000 miles going strong until a family member ran a red light and hit a car totaling it.
Very informational. Probably a little long for those with ADHD, but its a video about problems with a specific engine. Its gonna be long. Theres a lot of odds and ends to these pre eagle 5.7s that I feel needs to be brought to attention. With the increase in prices with second hand market V8s, the 300c has officially become the poor mans scat. That means a lot more people are going to be buying and building these boats, and with that will be a need for more information like this. Sure there are videos out there that touch on this subject, but nothing will compare to someone who actually owns and dailys this car making the videos.
I appreciate you very much man! Sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment before! It was a bit longer for sure, it’s hard to condense all of the odds and ends of the motor as you said, haha. I definitely agree with you about the 300C! There are quite a few people price gouging already, it’s getting a bit harder to find a clean and/or lower milage example for a reasonable price! I paid $9k out the door, but she was garage kept and all. I’m surprised to see other examples getting closer to the 7-10k range😲 And I wholeheartedly agree, I’m hoping to provide as much information as I can to those who need it, while learning as well of course! Even the oldest dogs learn new tricks sometimes despite popular opinion, we’re all still learning no matter how knowledgeable we are. Also, that’s 100% right! Only owners, engineers, and technicians can offer this information up! And some folks don’t bother to learn, they just enjoy driving the car, haha. Which is perfectly understandable. Luckily, I only had to daily her for a while, my transmission in my old daily gave out. I have her put up in a climate controlled warehouse for the extremely terrible Michigan winter, but when she’s out in the spring you can bet that I drive her almost every day! I enjoy getting out of the daily, taking the car cover off the C, giving her a nice cold start, and cruising around with the windows down and the sunroof cracked. Nothing beats it!
@@Underdogbuilds You and Pandadriven have actually inspired me to start my own car vlogging journey on instagram. I want to start with what I would consider "New to you vehicle repairs". Front suspension overhaul, Engine accessory and top end rebuild, proper draining, flushing, and refilling procedures, and understanding how to track down hidden problems with Diablo's live action logger. I got my 06 300c for only $3500, but she had 196k (now 199k). So a lot of things have needed to be done/replaced. Youre only about 4 hours north of me, so I hope to catch you at a meet sometime 🤙
Most definitely! Reignited has some of the best videos pertaining to the HEMI platform, it’ll be sad watching him take a step back from TH-cam. I do wish the best of him and his family though.
Sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment! How was the swap? I hope everything went well. I’m personally going non mds here in about a month or so when I do this camshaft swap and toss new heads at the car. I hope you’re happy with the new cam! Also, I’m curious. Did you end up going with a melling pump or OEM?
It could be broken exhaust bolts causing the extra noise. My leaks until the exhaust manifold heats up because of a broken bolt. I hope to fix it soon.
my 05 chrysler 300 motor took a dump at 120,000 miles so now im boring it out to a 5.8L with 10:1 compression and twin turbos, just looking for what all i need to do and what i should do.
Yes, that is a viable option. At 20:35 this is what I was speaking about, within a tune on a handheld device or through a local tuning service. The MDS lifters themselves are less durable though and have still caused issues with MDS disabled. Some people never disabled MDS, drove the vehicles 200,000 miles with no issue, and argue that it has no negative effects. I have MDS disabled with my handheld tuner, but when doing my cam swap on the spring those lifters will be swapped for Non-MDS lifters.
Yessir, at 20:30 I discuss disabling MDS within the tune. The more so brittle MDS lifters can still cause issues with MDS disabled, MDS being disabled of course helps though. Some folks also attribute a lack of lubrication at idle and low rpm operation to these lifters failing.
Thankfully, once in a while, I hear some words from a RAMM owner or 350 hemi owner knows pretty well with talking about at least has done some research, a bit more than the average person that tends to lay blame When there is no plane to be made, without back scientific evidence rather than speculation. Case in point would be your reference towards some of the issues regarding the MDS system, and the truth of the matter is that the MDS kicking on and off happens so quickly and doesn't stay on for very long or long enough for any type of overheating to occur or uneven cylinder wear yes, in previous generations there were some uneven cylinder issues, but that was simply due to the fact that it was the same cylinders shutting on and off whereas now with all of the advancements in the computer ships running the PCM it's so random that there is no one even not to mention that the PCM keeps track of what cylinder what, and how often in Order to mitigate uneven cylinder potential. It's really only about a 3 to 8% fuel savings for the pre-periods in MDS actually kicks in in my view it's just Negligible with regards to any of the problems that the hemi motor has had. It's human nature to lay blame or to add reason as to why something is occurring if we don't know why we have to put anything that's occurred that we don't understand and for most people that aren't educated as you are it's completely understandable and completely reasonable as to why some may lay blame on the MDS system because the problem seem to pop up once those major changes were made. One of the major factors was the distance of which the overhead cams were lifted much higher than in previous generations. This created an unintentional lack of lubrication from a fixed displacement, oil oil pump, undersized for its application. we can simply learn from the 6.4 L hemi with an oil pump that is also fixed displacement but larger volume of approximately 12% which is quite a bit when you take consideration the motor holds is it 7 quarts or 6.622L in Canadian. So at 12% more oil by volume equals 795 mL which is very close to full quarter of oil. That is a significant amount of added lubrication in my view the leading cause of the cam and lifter failures on the Newer HEMI engines. Contributing factors, as I'm sure you are aware was excessive idling times and increased service intervals at the hands of the vehicle manufacturer, making claims of longer oil change intervals in order to increase sales. One company did it. Every company had to follow suit and sadly enough one of those companies was Toyota, for decades was a leader, rather than the weight and see approach that failed them with their poorly designed or I should say poorly assembled. V6 twin turbo platform. So it kind of comes down to your tips at the end of the video that are hands down the best advice any vehicle owner should follow. In the end, common sense to some people may be uncommon sense to others. If you look at the owners of the DODGE DEMON IT WAS WHERE A LOT OF THE OWNERS WERE GOING AGAINST THE KNOWLEDGE OF ENGINEERS, WITH DECADES OF EXPERIENCE AND COMPUTER MODELS THAT TOLD THEM WHAT IS ENGINE MUST HAVE DONE DURING THE BREAK AND PROCEDURE PRIOR TO TAKING IT TO THE TRACK OR DRIVING IT MORE AGGRESSIVELY, THEN A NON-PERFORMANCE CAR. These owners knew more than the engineers that designed the motors with all of the R&D that went into high-performance engine. Had these customers understood the reasoning and thought a little bit more about it. I don't think there would be nearly as many engine failures had the breaking procedures been followed. We can control what we do, and give advice if asked in order to help others....
First vid ive seen on this channel, love the vid concept. Personally prefer shorter more concise vids around 10 min mark (+ u get ad revenue) but keep it up bro
Thank you for tuning into the channel! I really appreciate it and I do agree with you on shorter length videos, haha. I’ll be trying to organize my thoughts better in upcoming videos that I know will be on the longer side. 😄 I hope to see you tune in to future videos and I hope you have a great day man! (A new video “How to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat” will be dropping very soon!)
I’m own a 2018 5.7 truck all factory and just rolled over 250k. There’s a lot of info on upgrading fuel pumps, cam, lifters, springs, headers, etc. (all mentioned here) Is it best to run a full kit from one company or mix and match certain pieces? Looking at long tube headers, tsp stage 2 cam, with their mds delete kit. Safe bet or no?
Love the content, please keep up the great work...really good stuff. I am curious what year your 3 is. Reason being is i own an '05 and if i am to understand correctly that year was not able to completely disable traction control. Ive looked around and all i get is misinformation. Could you please clear this up for me? Thank for your time and help. Have a blessed day sir.
Thank you, I really appreciate that! I’m excited to keep producing content and improving as I go😄 it is truly appreciated greatly, my 300C is also a 2005! Rolled off the assembly line in 04, I believe October. She’ll be 19 years old this year, wow… back on topic. You can disable traction control completely, but you cannot do it with the ESP button. I’ve been told to try the key trick probably 1,000 times and that doesn’t work on the 2005 models either. The two true ways that you can disable your traction control are with a handheld tuner or by pulling your ABS fuse. I do want to warn you, when the traction is completely off, ABS, ESC, and traction control are all disabled. Why I mention this is because if you cruise with all of this disabled, you run the risk of boiling your brake fluid, warping your rotors, or having a malfunction with the brakes. I had to give you a heads up 🫱🏻🫲🏼 Have fun sliding that back end around and I hope you have a blessed day man!🙏🤞🏼
Thank you very much for the heads up my man!! Sounds like a tuner is a great investment. Thank you for your time, and I look forward to many years of amazing content!!!
Best thing to do to avoid hemi tick is don’t let the car sit and idle keep the oil changed and get an oil catch can also if you have a 5.7 plus v8 more meaning a scatpack as well get a tuner and take off the 4 cylinder mode if you can’t afford a tuner run it in sport mode and it will not kick into the 4 cylinder mode so that valve don’t stick to make it 4 cylinder if your in a dodge truck and don’t have sport tow or tow haul works the same way or manual mode same for cars works and keep the motor from dropping the cylinders to make it 4 cylinder mode just a few tips for new mopar guys
I have mixed feelings, on one front, they have failed on some motors, but not many so I don’t really view them as such an issue. They’re also relatively easy to repair and get to if need be. On the front of deleting MDS, this is where it gets interesting. Many people have left them in after swapping to non MDS lifters and had absolutely 0 issues, I haven’t heard of any issues occurring from someone leaving them in place. I have however heard about them causing problems when being pulled. Some people are adamant on pulling them and replacing them with plugs, which can turn into a headache. If they’re coming out easy, I’d throw in MDS solenoid plugs, if they weren’t wanting to come out so easy, I’d leave them in place personally.
You would think so! It seems that build quality has somewhat diminished throughout the years sadly. It seems that all motors/cars have their own issues and quirks nowadays.
Yeah the manual says 7500-10k which out of the 5 hemi 5.7 platforms we own the oldest one 2007 commander at 200k I got lazy and followed that 7500-10k and that oil vs 3500-5k looked like I was charging oil on my 6.7 Cummins before it was deleted. And funny thing is that's the only one of the 5 that has a rear main seal leak but no surprise as dirty oil kills seals as well as lifters and cams . These newer synthetic oils might lubricate for 10k plus but it still doesn't change the fact the oil gets dirty . I use the 5w20 full synthetic despite the oil change intervals still being about what I'd do with regular Dino oil because the pour point of full synthetic is much lower than regular oil which if you've ever poured oil into the filler after an oil change it should be obvious that even temps well below 32 the synthetic is far less viscous and pours through the funnel just as easy as it does on a 90 degree day ... regular oil not so much despite having the same 5w20 viscosity rating .
I have 2016 dodge ram with a hemi leaks coolant a round the upper radiator hose at radiator I replace thermostat upper hose it does the same thing i'm going o replace thermostat again with a 192 to see if that helps
Sorry to hear about that man. Have you gotten around to replacing the thermostat again? I’ve heard of them leaking from the water inlet tube on the water pump housing. I hope you get it fixed! Keep me updated.
If the hose leaks at the radiator why on earth are you looking at the thermostat side of that hose for a leak solution . That's like having a flat tire and changing the gear oil in the differential. If it leaks at the hose connection to the radiator it's either your hose is crappy, crappy clamp, or the inlet tube where the hose slips over is somehow crap ...or you're missing the actual leak and it's not really from the hose .
I appreciate you fammo!🤞🏼🙏 the next video will be improve drastically 😄 currently working on setting up a space to record in, I just got an improved camera, and I’ll be using my expensive Rhode mic as well✊🏻
And honestly the worse part of a charger after you get the cylinder issues fixed is the fucking front ends have to be rebuilt every 50k prob I have never owned a charger that didn’t have a rattle in the front upper and lower ball joints idk why but they just wear out I have had older modes and just got a newer body 5 months ago but it’s 2015 one owner was a women never beat on bone stock 2 days after I buy it front end started to rattle 98k on the body go figure the only good thing about that is it’s not n have to get fixed asap I drove my 09 like that for 4 years and never a issues now that don’t mean it can’t get worse or won’t but I drove it from Knoxville tn to Gary IN and then to key west all to car shows and it was fine when I sold it still needed front end fixed my new charger again have had it 5 months it’s don’t it from the same week I bought it and it’s fine yes it will wear tires on the inside or outside a little so expect that but if your broke at the time your good for a min bur most importantly get a oil catch can
I appreciate you man😂😭 sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment before! You should definitely grab one up before the market gets too to crazy with em! (Many people are already trying to price gouge, it’s a bit ridiculous, haha.)
After having 5 5.7 hemi platforms one MDS but pre eagle and vvt the rest all eagle head and vvt mds I've yet to see lifter failure or any valve train failure on any of them. I have seen broke exhaust manifold bolts on the 2007 commander pre vvt which I fixed and the fucking gaskets leaked 3 months later 😅...the others don't leak there yet . Out of the 5 I've personally known the history of the 2007 I got lazy with and started to deviate from the 5k oil and filter changes since they claim 7500-10k in the manuals using the 5w20 full synthetic and I use that with an extended life premium filter , well that oil at 7500 plus looks like dog shit it's full of shit and yes it probably still lubricates but it's full of shit and that shit kills seals and other shit and guess what out of all 5 of our 5.7 Hemi powered vehicles it only that one commander that got fucked with my laziness and 7500+ oil changes that has a leaky rear main which dirty oil kills seals as well as lifters ...so I'm willing to bet many follow the 7500-10k in the owner's manual ... I'll take the hassle of more frequent oil and filter changes than having to pull my heads and pull bolts out of the oil pan to pull the timing cover to swap in a new cam shaft and lifters 😅
Somewhat. Most people don’t care to touch the stock oil pump unless they’re swapping or replacing the cam and/or lifters. Also, the ticking noise can also come about in other ways. Exhaust manifold studs snapping is very common and causes the same or a similar noise. The heads are also an issue for pre-eagles 5.7L HEMIs, dropping a valve is more detrimental typically. Also, some 5.7L HEMIs have none of these issues whatsoever and still have a ticking noise, which is from piston slap within the motor due to the piston rings, some come this way from factory. Some people never have a lifter failure, some people experience lifter failure as early as 60k miles. There are many factors that play into the ticking. the mds lifters specifically have issues as well due to having the spring to compress and deactivate cylinders, non-mds lifters don’t have the same issue but can still have issues. Lubrication definitely plays a major factor on lifter wear. I wish they would’ve had a better oil pump installed from factory. It’s a debacle brother. Thanks for watching!
The majority of the time non-mds lifter do tick, but there are non mds lifters that tick and fail as well. it is normal for a vehicle to have a slight/quiet lifter tick on start up. Many vehicles do this from corvettes to ford trucks. This lasts around 30 seconds, beyond that isn’t normal. It takes a bit of time for the oil to be pumped to the top of the motor and for things to become properly lubricated. Roller lifters are more noisy when cold, as the engine warms up and proper lubrication is achieved they will quiet down. There are new vehicles performance oriented and economy based that tick slightly on start up. I know about the lack of lubrication, this is at idle and during low RPM operation. You can have a tick last shortly after start up, then the vehicle run as smooth as can be with no tick whatsoever.
I definitely understand and see where you’re coming from. I’m not indicating that a constant tick is okay, if it’s a short while after a cold start, this is normal. Specifically on cold starts. Low oil, oil pressure, or worn tolerances in the valvetrain, can trigger a very distinguished ticking sound that needs to be evaluated and diagnosed ASAP if it’s consistent or if it worsens.
Not say that I’m right but the tick from the lifters is from the poor design from factory where the roller part of the lifter has excessive play there supposed to be nice nd firm if not then when the cam rollers over the hydraulic roller it bounces because of the excessive play. Just finished my 06 5.7 build last week did a big cam nd Amsr lifter they have very minor to none play enough to get rid of the ticking not like you can here it over the cam anyways 8:22
Hey man, I’m sorry that I hadn’t previously seen this comment! Thank you for the information and real world feedback! I definitely agree that a poor design from factory was partially to blame, I can’t believe the issue continued into the present day. That’s what truly blows my mind! I do also believe that the lack of lubrication at idle and low rpm operation plays a factor as well. How are you enjoying the cam man? I’m about to refresh my motor and install a new camshaft as well! I’ve got ported & polished heads, the cam package, melling pumps, a heavy duty timing chain set, and a tune coming real soon for the 300C.
95 percent of the time the tick from a hemi is exhaust manifold bolts they snap ff most towards rear of engine. i know i own one with two broke and still drive you know because it has 240k and it i barely hear it so i dont care. if it gets worse ill have it fixed
Great point, it’s does in fact turn MDS off. There’s also is not evidence that 100% connected issues specifically to the MDS system, many people just hate the DOD system and believe it causes issues. The main reason I see people completely disable MDS is to get a better performing cam in the car as they’re typically non-mds 😄 I hope you have a great day man!
Well you wipe out cam ... You can fix that without pulling the engine I think you can even leave the pan on with just removing the front bolts to get the timing cover off . The oil pan would be the hardest thing to get off on most of 5.7 platforms since they're kind of buried in there .
There is nothing that's going to fix an inherent bad design, the lack of lubrication in the upper valve train area is the all-around problem with the developing wear of the lifters and cam, coupled with the fact that low idles RPM does not provide proper oil to those areas, poor design! And you can put as many upgraded oil pumps in as you want, the distant valve train areas are still not going to be lubricated at idle and hence the problem! Junk design!
At 12:12 u said a upgraded oil pump can stop the lifter issue, should i buy some lifters from the eagle motor or should i keep the regular lifters? Help .new to this car stuff
Yessir, it is believed that the lack of lubrication at Idle and low RPM operation is at least partially to blame. An upgraded oil pump could be beneficial for sure. @ReignitedAuto has an in depth video specifically touching on this subject, I recommend that you give it a watch 😄 As for the lifters, that depends on a couple of things. If you plan to install a non MDS camshaft or just simply delete MDS it would be beneficial to grab some heavy duty non-mds lifters (non-MDS lifters can only be used if MDS is deleted or disabled within a tune). I will say I personally have stuck to OEM lifters from Mopar, but some folks have been talking about “Isky” lifters. I cannot attest to them, but I have heard good things. It may be worth doing some research about them and weighing them against the OEM lifters. Non-MDS lifters will not be able to be installed if you retain MDS. I hope this helps!! Oh, and if someone says “get hellcat lifters”, they’re referring to the heavy duty non-MDS lifters, they’re ran in the hellcats. I wanted to mention that because many many people will say “go get “hellcat” lifters!”
Best thing to do to avoid hemi tick is don’t let the car sit and idle keep the oil changed and get an oil catch can also if you have a 5.7 plus v8 more meaning a scatpack as well get a tuner and take off the 4 cylinder mode if you can’t afford a tuner run it in sport mode and it will not kick into the 4 cylinder mode so that valve don’t stick to make it 4 cylinder if your in a dodge truck and don’t have sport tow or tow haul works the same way or manual mode same for cars works and keep the motor from dropping the cylinders to make it 4 cylinder mode just a few tips for new mopar guys
@@Ariel0104 that’s why they get the tick the motor puts too much oil into it when it sets and idles for some reason I don’t know exactly why but that’s the main thing that don’t let it idle anymore then you have too and never use the street mode or use it in manually shift and don’t let it drop cylinders they have this mod all them do where you are in drive and it will go from a v8 to v6 when your around 55-60-70 you can hear the cylinders drop out it’s horrible for the cars that and idling idk bro look it up but promise that will help and idc what anyone says I never ram anything but 87 and never have had the tick and have had a 09 and 2015
My father in law had a 2008 ram hemi that is now in our possession he used it daily for work and personal use he took care of that truck religiously and at 512xxx miles piston rings finally decided to leave the chat room so I agree 100% with proper maintenance engines will last longer. Now time for a rebuild I will keep these tips in mind during the rebuild. Like the saying goes “you take care of it, it will take care of you”
This video has touched on ALOT of different causes and issues! Very well detailed and informative! Although I do recommend having pictures and videos posted up on screen for more visualization capture just so more people can grasp and understand the informative details alot more better, for future videos ofc, but other than that, fantastic video!! 👌🔥
I got 300,000 on my 03 hemi. It still takes me every were .. I just got another motor from wreck yard I trust. Looking to upgrade and give it a refresh. Thanks for content
300,000 miles or kms ????
That’s impressive! I’m happy it’s served you well, you must be on top of your maintenance like I am, haha! Sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment before. Do you plan to replace the lifters and cam for the most part or were you going to throw new pumps and a timing chain at it as well? I hope things are going well with the 03’!
@@Underdogbuilds My family used to own a 2003 ram 2500 hemi and it had 300,000 miles going strong until a family member ran a red light and hit a car totaling it.
Very informational. Probably a little long for those with ADHD, but its a video about problems with a specific engine. Its gonna be long. Theres a lot of odds and ends to these pre eagle 5.7s that I feel needs to be brought to attention. With the increase in prices with second hand market V8s, the 300c has officially become the poor mans scat. That means a lot more people are going to be buying and building these boats, and with that will be a need for more information like this. Sure there are videos out there that touch on this subject, but nothing will compare to someone who actually owns and dailys this car making the videos.
I appreciate you very much man! Sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment before! It was a bit longer for sure, it’s hard to condense all of the odds and ends of the motor as you said, haha. I definitely agree with you about the 300C! There are quite a few people price gouging already, it’s getting a bit harder to find a clean and/or lower milage example for a reasonable price! I paid $9k out the door, but she was garage kept and all. I’m surprised to see other examples getting closer to the 7-10k range😲 And I wholeheartedly agree, I’m hoping to provide as much information as I can to those who need it, while learning as well of course! Even the oldest dogs learn new tricks sometimes despite popular opinion, we’re all still learning no matter how knowledgeable we are. Also, that’s 100% right! Only owners, engineers, and technicians can offer this information up! And some folks don’t bother to learn, they just enjoy driving the car, haha. Which is perfectly understandable. Luckily, I only had to daily her for a while, my transmission in my old daily gave out. I have her put up in a climate controlled warehouse for the extremely terrible Michigan winter, but when she’s out in the spring you can bet that I drive her almost every day! I enjoy getting out of the daily, taking the car cover off the C, giving her a nice cold start, and cruising around with the windows down and the sunroof cracked. Nothing beats it!
@@Underdogbuilds You and Pandadriven have actually inspired me to start my own car vlogging journey on instagram. I want to start with what I would consider "New to you vehicle repairs". Front suspension overhaul, Engine accessory and top end rebuild, proper draining, flushing, and refilling procedures, and understanding how to track down hidden problems with Diablo's live action logger. I got my 06 300c for only $3500, but she had 196k (now 199k). So a lot of things have needed to be done/replaced. Youre only about 4 hours north of me, so I hope to catch you at a meet sometime 🤙
I’m completely new to the Hemi and had my motor blown, and deciding to upgrade the parts for the next motor to prevent my motor clowning up again
Reignited has been the best for explaining the mds and the high volume pumps
Most definitely! Reignited has some of the best videos pertaining to the HEMI platform, it’ll be sad watching him take a step back from TH-cam. I do wish the best of him and his family though.
I need a parts list or a recommended site for a full kit
I'm pulling my motor this weekend upgrading lifters, oil pump and cam. just trying to deside msd or non msd
If you upgrade cam you have to delete the mds
Sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment! How was the swap? I hope everything went well. I’m personally going non mds here in about a month or so when I do this camshaft swap and toss new heads at the car. I hope you’re happy with the new cam! Also, I’m curious. Did you end up going with a melling pump or OEM?
@@curtisparker9978MMX makes an upgrade cam that can be had in either non MDS or retain MDS .
The 4.7l has the TICK as well!
It could be broken exhaust bolts causing the extra noise. My leaks until the exhaust manifold heats up because of a broken bolt. I hope to fix it soon.
my 05 chrysler 300 motor took a dump at 120,000 miles so now im boring it out to a 5.8L with 10:1 compression and twin turbos, just looking for what all i need to do and what i should do.
very good stuff my dude
Thank you man! I appreciate it very much. Content is about to pick up as the car should be coming out of storage soon 😄🙏
You can get a Diablo tuner and disable mds instead of changing your cam and lifters and do much more.
YES
Yes, that is a viable option. At 20:35 this is what I was speaking about, within a tune on a handheld device or through a local tuning service. The MDS lifters themselves are less durable though and have still caused issues with MDS disabled. Some people never disabled MDS, drove the vehicles 200,000 miles with no issue, and argue that it has no negative effects. I have MDS disabled with my handheld tuner, but when doing my cam swap on the spring those lifters will be swapped for Non-MDS lifters.
Yessir, at 20:30 I discuss disabling MDS within the tune. The more so brittle MDS lifters can still cause issues with MDS disabled, MDS being disabled of course helps though. Some folks also attribute a lack of lubrication at idle and low rpm operation to these lifters failing.
A little less ya da ya da and more directly to the point and I would have watched the whole video, but !!!!!!!!!!!
I’ll keep that in mind, I most definitely expected that feedback. I had to test the waters though! I appreciate you for tuning it, have a great day!🙏🙂
I'm sure he meant nothin bad by that, keep doin ur thing bro I learned som things
I appreciate you family🤞🏼🫱🏻🫲🏼🙏 I’ll be dropping consistently and trying to dial everything in😁 I’m glad I could provide some new information for you!
Thankfully, once in a while, I hear some words from a RAMM owner or 350 hemi owner knows pretty well with talking about at least has done some research, a bit more than the average person that tends to lay blame When there is no plane to be made, without back scientific evidence rather than speculation. Case in point would be your reference towards some of the issues regarding the MDS system, and the truth of the matter is that the MDS kicking on and off happens so quickly and doesn't stay on for very long or long enough for any type of overheating to occur or uneven cylinder wear yes, in previous generations there were some uneven cylinder issues, but that was simply due to the fact that it was the same cylinders shutting on and off whereas now with all of the advancements in the computer ships running the PCM it's so random that there is no one even not to mention that the PCM keeps track of what cylinder what, and how often in Order to mitigate uneven cylinder potential. It's really only about a 3 to 8% fuel savings for the pre-periods in MDS actually kicks in in my view it's just Negligible with regards to any of the problems that the hemi motor has had. It's human nature to lay blame or to add reason as to why something is occurring if we don't know why we have to put anything that's occurred that we don't understand and for most people that aren't educated as you are it's completely understandable and completely reasonable as to why some may lay blame on the MDS system because the problem seem to pop up once those major changes were made. One of the major factors was the distance of which the overhead cams were lifted much higher than in previous generations. This created an unintentional lack of lubrication from a fixed displacement, oil oil pump, undersized for its application. we can simply learn from the 6.4 L hemi with an oil pump that is also fixed displacement but larger volume of approximately 12% which is quite a bit when you take consideration the motor holds is it 7 quarts or 6.622L in Canadian. So at 12% more oil by volume equals 795 mL which is very close to full quarter of oil. That is a significant amount of added lubrication in my view the leading cause of the cam and lifter failures on the Newer HEMI engines. Contributing factors, as I'm sure you are aware was excessive idling times and increased service intervals at the hands of the vehicle manufacturer, making claims of longer oil change intervals in order to increase sales. One company did it. Every company had to follow suit and sadly enough one of those companies was Toyota, for decades was a leader, rather than the weight and see approach that failed them with their poorly designed or I should say poorly assembled. V6 twin turbo platform. So it kind of comes down to your tips at the end of the video that are hands down the best advice any vehicle owner should follow. In the end, common sense to some people may be uncommon sense to others. If you look at the owners of the DODGE DEMON IT WAS WHERE A LOT OF THE OWNERS WERE GOING AGAINST THE KNOWLEDGE OF ENGINEERS, WITH DECADES OF EXPERIENCE AND COMPUTER MODELS THAT TOLD THEM WHAT IS ENGINE MUST HAVE DONE DURING THE BREAK AND PROCEDURE PRIOR TO TAKING IT TO THE TRACK OR DRIVING IT MORE AGGRESSIVELY, THEN A NON-PERFORMANCE CAR. These owners knew more than the engineers that designed the motors with all of the R&D that went into high-performance engine. Had these customers understood the reasoning and thought a little bit more about it. I don't think there would be nearly as many engine failures had the breaking procedures been followed. We can control what we do, and give advice if asked in order to help others....
No such thing as a modern 350 hemi the 5.7 hemi is a 345 cid not a Chevy 350 so unless it's been rebuilt and the cylinders cleaned up it's a 346 .
First vid ive seen on this channel, love the vid concept. Personally prefer shorter more concise vids around 10 min mark (+ u get ad revenue) but keep it up bro
Thank you for tuning into the channel! I really appreciate it and I do agree with you on shorter length videos, haha. I’ll be trying to organize my thoughts better in upcoming videos that I know will be on the longer side. 😄 I hope to see you tune in to future videos and I hope you have a great day man! (A new video “How to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat” will be dropping very soon!)
I’m own a 2018 5.7 truck all factory and just rolled over 250k. There’s a lot of info on upgrading fuel pumps, cam, lifters, springs, headers, etc. (all mentioned here)
Is it best to run a full kit from one company or mix and match certain pieces?
Looking at long tube headers, tsp stage 2 cam, with their mds delete kit. Safe bet or no?
Love the content, please keep up the great work...really good stuff. I am curious what year your 3 is. Reason being is i own an '05 and if i am to understand correctly that year was not able to completely disable traction control. Ive looked around and all i get is misinformation. Could you please clear this up for me? Thank for your time and help. Have a blessed day sir.
Thank you, I really appreciate that! I’m excited to keep producing content and improving as I go😄 it is truly appreciated greatly, my 300C is also a 2005! Rolled off the assembly line in 04, I believe October. She’ll be 19 years old this year, wow… back on topic. You can disable traction control completely, but you cannot do it with the ESP button. I’ve been told to try the key trick probably 1,000 times and that doesn’t work on the 2005 models either. The two true ways that you can disable your traction control are with a handheld tuner or by pulling your ABS fuse. I do want to warn you, when the traction is completely off, ABS, ESC, and traction control are all disabled. Why I mention this is because if you cruise with all of this disabled, you run the risk of boiling your brake fluid, warping your rotors, or having a malfunction with the brakes. I had to give you a heads up 🫱🏻🫲🏼 Have fun sliding that back end around and I hope you have a blessed day man!🙏🤞🏼
Thank you very much for the heads up my man!! Sounds like a tuner is a great investment. Thank you for your time, and I look forward to many years of amazing content!!!
Best thing to do to avoid hemi tick is don’t let the car sit and idle keep the oil changed and get an oil catch can also if you have a 5.7 plus v8 more meaning a scatpack as well get a tuner and take off the 4 cylinder mode if you can’t afford a tuner run it in sport mode and it will not kick into the 4 cylinder mode so that valve don’t stick to make it 4 cylinder if your in a dodge truck and don’t have sport tow or tow haul works the same way or manual mode same for cars works and keep the motor from dropping the cylinders to make it 4 cylinder mode just a few tips for new mopar guys
What you think about mds solenoids?
I have mixed feelings, on one front, they have failed on some motors, but not many so I don’t really view them as such an issue. They’re also relatively easy to repair and get to if need be. On the front of deleting MDS, this is where it gets interesting. Many people have left them in after swapping to non MDS lifters and had absolutely 0 issues, I haven’t heard of any issues occurring from someone leaving them in place. I have however heard about them causing problems when being pulled. Some people are adamant on pulling them and replacing them with plugs, which can turn into a headache. If they’re coming out easy, I’d throw in MDS solenoid plugs, if they weren’t wanting to come out so easy, I’d leave them in place personally.
What an inclusive and informative video! I enjoyed this very much so
Mine is not wanting to idle I have a 06 rt hemi it stalls and has a bad misfire, hooking a code reader up to it in a few days when I get one
No power steering pump failure? I had a 3.5 and finally upgraded to a 5.7, both 2008 where the power steering blew completely
You would think in this day and age they would be able to make a motor without any problems
You would think so! It seems that build quality has somewhat diminished throughout the years sadly. It seems that all motors/cars have their own issues and quirks nowadays.
It seems that all cars/trucks are designed to have a serious issue that pops up at 100k miles to encourage the owner to get a new one.
Extended idling causes lifter wear. Change oil 4k miles or less. Change brand of oil also
Yeah the manual says 7500-10k which out of the 5 hemi 5.7 platforms we own the oldest one 2007 commander at 200k I got lazy and followed that 7500-10k and that oil vs 3500-5k looked like I was charging oil on my 6.7 Cummins before it was deleted. And funny thing is that's the only one of the 5 that has a rear main seal leak but no surprise as dirty oil kills seals as well as lifters and cams . These newer synthetic oils might lubricate for 10k plus but it still doesn't change the fact the oil gets dirty . I use the 5w20 full synthetic despite the oil change intervals still being about what I'd do with regular Dino oil because the pour point of full synthetic is much lower than regular oil which if you've ever poured oil into the filler after an oil change it should be obvious that even temps well below 32 the synthetic is far less viscous and pours through the funnel just as easy as it does on a 90 degree day ... regular oil not so much despite having the same 5w20 viscosity rating .
Im here to buy an 1/8th of weed, not for car knowledge. 😂
I have 2016 dodge ram with a hemi leaks coolant a round the upper radiator hose at radiator I replace thermostat upper hose it does the same thing i'm going o replace thermostat again with a 192 to see if that helps
Sorry to hear about that man. Have you gotten around to replacing the thermostat again? I’ve heard of them leaking from the water inlet tube on the water pump housing. I hope you get it fixed! Keep me updated.
If the hose leaks at the radiator why on earth are you looking at the thermostat side of that hose for a leak solution . That's like having a flat tire and changing the gear oil in the differential. If it leaks at the hose connection to the radiator it's either your hose is crappy, crappy clamp, or the inlet tube where the hose slips over is somehow crap ...or you're missing the actual leak and it's not really from the hose .
Yo yo just came from ig
Yerrr
I appreciate you fammo!🤞🏼🙏 the next video will be improve drastically 😄 currently working on setting up a space to record in, I just got an improved camera, and I’ll be using my expensive Rhode mic as well✊🏻
I appreciate you man🤞🏼🙂 I can’t wait to drop the next video!
Lol first thing i said when i first saw him he definitely been to some bbqs real bbqs lol
Best way to avoid all them issues.... is getting a 5.0 Coyote lol
You’ve got a point there! 😂 I do love those Coyote motors, that 11:1+ CR is gnarly!
And honestly the worse part of a charger after you get the cylinder issues fixed is the fucking front ends have to be rebuilt every 50k prob I have never owned a charger that didn’t have a rattle in the front upper and lower ball joints idk why but they just wear out I have had older modes and just got a newer body 5 months ago but it’s 2015 one owner was a women never beat on bone stock 2 days after I buy it front end started to rattle 98k on the body go figure the only good thing about that is it’s not n have to get fixed asap I drove my 09 like that for 4 years and never a issues now that don’t mean it can’t get worse or won’t but I drove it from Knoxville tn to Gary IN and then to key west all to car shows and it was fine when I sold it still needed front end fixed my new charger again have had it 5 months it’s don’t it from the same week I bought it and it’s fine yes it will wear tires on the inside or outside a little so expect that but if your broke at the time your good for a min bur most importantly get a oil catch can
Your vids might make me fuck up and get a 5.7 Hemi c 😭.
Get it just got my 08 300c this mf stupiddd
I appreciate you man😂😭 sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment before! You should definitely grab one up before the market gets too to crazy with em! (Many people are already trying to price gouge, it’s a bit ridiculous, haha.)
Buy once, cry once
After having 5 5.7 hemi platforms one MDS but pre eagle and vvt the rest all eagle head and vvt mds I've yet to see lifter failure or any valve train failure on any of them. I have seen broke exhaust manifold bolts on the 2007 commander pre vvt which I fixed and the fucking gaskets leaked 3 months later 😅...the others don't leak there yet .
Out of the 5 I've personally known the history of the 2007 I got lazy with and started to deviate from the 5k oil and filter changes since they claim 7500-10k in the manuals using the 5w20 full synthetic and I use that with an extended life premium filter , well that oil at 7500 plus looks like dog shit it's full of shit and yes it probably still lubricates but it's full of shit and that shit kills seals and other shit and guess what out of all 5 of our 5.7 Hemi powered vehicles it only that one commander that got fucked with my laziness and 7500+ oil changes that has a leaky rear main which dirty oil kills seals as well as lifters ...so I'm willing to bet many follow the 7500-10k in the owner's manual ... I'll take the hassle of more frequent oil and filter changes than having to pull my heads and pull bolts out of the oil pan to pull the timing cover to swap in a new cam shaft and lifters 😅
4real just tell them to upgrade yo oil pump nd that prevent thr tick
Somewhat. Most people don’t care to touch the stock oil pump unless they’re swapping or replacing the cam and/or lifters. Also, the ticking noise can also come about in other ways. Exhaust manifold studs snapping is very common and causes the same or a similar noise. The heads are also an issue for pre-eagles 5.7L HEMIs, dropping a valve is more detrimental typically. Also, some 5.7L HEMIs have none of these issues whatsoever and still have a ticking noise, which is from piston slap within the motor due to the piston rings, some come this way from factory. Some people never have a lifter failure, some people experience lifter failure as early as 60k miles. There are many factors that play into the ticking. the mds lifters specifically have issues as well due to having the spring to compress and deactivate cylinders, non-mds lifters don’t have the same issue but can still have issues. Lubrication definitely plays a major factor on lifter wear. I wish they would’ve had a better oil pump installed from factory. It’s a debacle brother. Thanks for watching!
98% of the time its the msd lifters that tick and no its not normal for it to tick on start up the tick is caused by lack of oil in the lifters
The majority of the time non-mds lifter do tick, but there are non mds lifters that tick and fail as well. it is normal for a vehicle to have a slight/quiet lifter tick on start up. Many vehicles do this from corvettes to ford trucks. This lasts around 30 seconds, beyond that isn’t normal. It takes a bit of time for the oil to be pumped to the top of the motor and for things to become properly lubricated. Roller lifters are more noisy when cold, as the engine warms up and proper lubrication is achieved they will quiet down. There are new vehicles performance oriented and economy based that tick slightly on start up. I know about the lack of lubrication, this is at idle and during low RPM operation. You can have a tick last shortly after start up, then the vehicle run as smooth as can be with no tick whatsoever.
I definitely understand and see where you’re coming from. I’m not indicating that a constant tick is okay, if it’s a short while after a cold start, this is normal. Specifically on cold starts. Low oil, oil pressure, or worn tolerances in the valvetrain, can trigger a very distinguished ticking sound that needs to be evaluated and diagnosed ASAP if it’s consistent or if it worsens.
Not say that I’m right but the tick from the lifters is from the poor design from factory where the roller part of the lifter has excessive play there supposed to be nice nd firm if not then when the cam rollers over the hydraulic roller it bounces because of the excessive play. Just finished my 06 5.7 build last week did a big cam nd Amsr lifter they have very minor to none play enough to get rid of the ticking not like you can here it over the cam anyways 8:22
Hey man, I’m sorry that I hadn’t previously seen this comment! Thank you for the information and real world feedback! I definitely agree that a poor design from factory was partially to blame, I can’t believe the issue continued into the present day. That’s what truly blows my mind! I do also believe that the lack of lubrication at idle and low rpm operation plays a factor as well. How are you enjoying the cam man? I’m about to refresh my motor and install a new camshaft as well! I’ve got ported & polished heads, the cam package, melling pumps, a heavy duty timing chain set, and a tune coming real soon for the 300C.
I bullet proofed my hemi by swapping an ls in the ole girl.
Haha, you’re onto something there!
yep yep don't Gotta worry about it now just gotta make sure the tow service has done their routine maintenance.
95 percent of the time the tick from a hemi is exhaust manifold bolts they snap ff most towards rear of engine. i know i own one with two broke and still drive you know because it has 240k and it i barely hear it so i dont care. if it gets worse ill have it fixed
dont get me wrong i maintain my truck from oil changes to trans service to rear end fluids myself
Just ride around in sport mode … that shuts the mds off 😅😅😅
Great point, it’s does in fact turn MDS off. There’s also is not evidence that 100% connected issues specifically to the MDS system, many people just hate the DOD system and believe it causes issues. The main reason I see people completely disable MDS is to get a better performing cam in the car as they’re typically non-mds 😄 I hope you have a great day man!
If you don’t solve the tick early you wipe out the motor
Well you wipe out cam ... You can fix that without pulling the engine I think you can even leave the pan on with just removing the front bolts to get the timing cover off . The oil pan would be the hardest thing to get off on most of 5.7 platforms since they're kind of buried in there .
There is nothing that's going to fix an inherent bad design, the lack of lubrication in the upper valve train area is the all-around problem with the developing wear of the lifters and cam, coupled with the fact that low idles RPM does not provide proper oil to those areas, poor design! And you can put as many upgraded oil pumps in as you want, the distant valve train areas are still not going to be lubricated at idle and hence the problem! Junk design!
A little less shouting
To much rambling.
At 12:12 u said a upgraded oil pump can stop the lifter issue, should i buy some lifters from the eagle motor or should i keep the regular lifters? Help .new to this car stuff
Yessir, it is believed that the lack of lubrication at Idle and low RPM operation is at least partially to blame. An upgraded oil pump could be beneficial for sure. @ReignitedAuto has an in depth video specifically touching on this subject, I recommend that you give it a watch 😄 As for the lifters, that depends on a couple of things. If you plan to install a non MDS camshaft or just simply delete MDS it would be beneficial to grab some heavy duty non-mds lifters (non-MDS lifters can only be used if MDS is deleted or disabled within a tune). I will say I personally have stuck to OEM lifters from Mopar, but some folks have been talking about “Isky” lifters. I cannot attest to them, but I have heard good things. It may be worth doing some research about them and weighing them against the OEM lifters. Non-MDS lifters will not be able to be installed if you retain MDS. I hope this helps!! Oh, and if someone says “get hellcat lifters”, they’re referring to the heavy duty non-MDS lifters, they’re ran in the hellcats. I wanted to mention that because many many people will say “go get “hellcat” lifters!”
@@Underdogbuildsthank you i appreciate it.
Best thing to do to avoid hemi tick is don’t let the car sit and idle keep the oil changed and get an oil catch can also if you have a 5.7 plus v8 more meaning a scatpack as well get a tuner and take off the 4 cylinder mode if you can’t afford a tuner run it in sport mode and it will not kick into the 4 cylinder mode so that valve don’t stick to make it 4 cylinder if your in a dodge truck and don’t have sport tow or tow haul works the same way or manual mode same for cars works and keep the motor from dropping the cylinders to make it 4 cylinder mode just a few tips for new mopar guys
I understand how everything else could aid in preventing a tick but can I ask how a catch can could help?
@@Ariel0104 that’s why they get the tick the motor puts too much oil into it when it sets and idles for some reason I don’t know exactly why but that’s the main thing that don’t let it idle anymore then you have too and never use the street mode or use it in manually shift and don’t let it drop cylinders they have this mod all them do where you are in drive and it will go from a v8 to v6 when your around 55-60-70 you can hear the cylinders drop out it’s horrible for the cars that and idling idk bro look it up but promise that will help and idc what anyone says I never ram anything but 87 and never have had the tick and have had a 09 and 2015