Very good information. My 2016 5.7 shaker started the hemi tick and failing lifter. Never planned to build it until that happened. Texas speed stage 3 kit Hellcat lifters Bbk headers - cat delete Flowmaster exhaust And a great tune by the shop. You can throw parts at these cars, but the tune makes the build. Pro charger is next.
Definitely recommend a tune. 93 octane from Hemi Fever runs great with HellCat lower airbox and HellCat stock air filter which outflows a Cold Air Intake usually and brings in actually cooler air then under the hood temperatures. Also a lower temperature thermostat which changed the tune for the fans to come on earlier to keep the temperatures down.
These 5.7s are capable of 4.6 0-60s bone stock with just a tire mod. You won’t win any roll races in these slow boats but you can catch a lot of people sleeping on a dig in stop light races with some traction and good reaction time. Fun car to have as a modest daily.
@midnight347 especially because most everyone who quotes it says 0-60 but really they mean with roll out. It's not actually stupid not every car has a good 0-60 but in drag racing the hit is probably the best most important. Not all cars 60ft well even though they have the same tire because a class says they need to all tun the same. A muscle car was made to drag race which means 0-60 especially on the street matters.
for my 09 R/T chally 6m (3.92 rear diff) owned since 2012, all my mods are , 6.4 srt cam, 6.1 srt headers and mids, full 6.4 srt cat back ,6.4 ported active intake and yes wired to function, 180 deg thermostat custom CAI breathing from the left fender ,IAT relocated) ported fastman TB, regular copper ngk core plugs, zeitronix wide band o2, 18" rims and tires, full urethane rear cradle bushing kit (wheel hop no more) i have done numerous 0-60 runs on average 4 sec with good launches , never got a dyno or took her to the track ,but what im sensing low 12's and about 430 hp , just guessing but it keeps right up with or even nudges out every 6.4 srt's and beats my buds 09 6m srt 6.1 chally easily.
I have a 17 300 5.7. Intake, 85mm throttle body, mid muffler delete, 180 t-stat, long tube hi Flo catted stainless works headers all tied together with a Hemi fever engine and trans tune. Car feels very healthy. Still haven’t dynoed it yet. I’ve had 4.6 runs to 60. How much whp do you think I added?
Been thinking of throwing a procharged 5.7 build into a foxbody with a 6-speed manual. Not going for high HP just looking for 550-650rwhp Nothing crazy
@@thesupersaiyan6454 yeah I want to keep it for street use, maybe just a drift build lol (Thinking of a 397 stroker with procharger).. would be cool, different and Nasty compared to the usual LS stuff
My 2015 r/t has 6.4 headers , tuned , 2.62 diff which is the most bad one in mopar , did 13.09 in dragy for 1/4 mile with china tires , i think it will hit around 385 to 390 hp in dyno
I have a 2022 Challenger RT with BBK Shorty Headers, 90mm BBK Trottlebody, Inject Cold air intake and a mid muffler delete How much horsepower do you think I can increase? I haven't tune the vehicle yet.
@@8020Media the mods i messaged you are the ones I currently have and I was just curious to see how much horsepower I might have and would you recommend for me to tune the vehicle?
G - We misunderstood your comment. You've maybe added 30hp depending on the exact setup. We always recommend tuning as it makes the engine more efficient depending on the tune you run.
@@8020Media Got it. One thing I didn’t want to do was add a cam and a 392 intake manifold, but I was told that you need to tune the vehicle once those two parts
I have a 2022 Challenger RT with BBK Shorty Headers, 90mm BBK Trottlebody, Inject Cold air intake and a mid muffler delete How much horsepower do you think I can increase? I haven’t tune the vehicle yet .
Owning two hemi. I agree top 5 mods but not cold air intake I rather put 6.4 intake manifold. Cold air intake don't do anything just looks good and nice engine nosie.
I got to the end of the vid when u mentioned the intake manifold upgrade. Anyone reading this, avoid the edelbrock 7179. I fills up my catch can so fast that I have to check it at most every 2 weeks. by then it's about 1/2 full and that's using the extra large mishimoto can. I have to switch it out at some point so that's about 2k down the toilet. if ya'll look up reviews, you'll see I'm not the only one experiencing that. I've called edelbrock and they said they have no idea what I'm talking about sooo yeah. & yes, I took the car in to be diagnosed as soon as it happened. I noticed about a week after installing that intake
An intake manifold swap alone won’t cause any change to how much oil is in your catch can. The manifold doesn’t change the crankcase pressure or how much vacuum you see on deceleration Excessive oil in catch cans is usually caused by blow by from piston rings
The SUV are the same only 360/390 vs 395/410 for the 1500 . I have an afe cold air , MMX ported TB, MMX 6.4 intake manifold swap, long tube headers, cat back and msd packs with hemi fever tuning I also have billet valve body in the 65rfe as I have 13 AWD Durango and missed the 8spd by 1 year . I made stock 270/320 after the parts and tuning I make 335/375 at the wheels peak and there are even bigger gains in low mid torque I figure crank power is now 420-430 and torque 440-450 . I'm thinking of a mild cam like the mmx 5.7 no tune VVT cam but I can't easily swap that over to my next Durango or Jeep with a 5.7 . I have a wet nitrous throttle plate kit coming will probably run 75-100 . I will probably keep the 91 octane tune and run octane booster like torco to get the added points in octane vs dropping points in timing . The 65rfe seems to do well with the much improved performance valve body vs the stock if you have an 8spd it's even better power handling. I'm trying to keep all my stock parts and keep the parts added to things I can realistically pull off and return to stock when I retire this 65rfe Durango RT the 300s I believe go the w5a580 (nag1) 5 speed it it's pretty zf 8spd which is a great geared transmission vs the shit RFE which also has no aftermarket regearing support for the newer independent axles like the jeep and Durango so it will always be a dog compared to a newer 8spd or even a 1500 RFE since they can regear to deep gears for performance .
It's a tune thing. SUVs and Sedans are aimed at comfort, smoothness, and efficiency. So they tune it to have a flatter torque curve at the low end but less peak power at the top.
These cars are simply that. Cars with a trucks engine stuffed under the hood. FCA was crippled by the EPA and had to kill the 5.7 power in lieu of economy. With that said, with all that ive done to this car, i get 2 more MPG than my wifes Acura, and itll walk all over it with half throttle. Yes. Shes tried 😂 My pic was a stock benchmark. It was raining which you can see upon closer inspection. XD
The 5.7 is underwhelming in all respects. Maybe if it wasn't in overly heavy vehicles or wasn't overrated from the factory or it wasnt so peaky...it wouldn't be comparable (0 to 60 and quarter mile times) to everyone else's v6 and turbo 4 engines. If you have a 5.7...don't bother with bolt on mods...just add forced induction so you can play with the big boys. I have owned 3 vehicles with the 5.7 hemi and wouldn't bother with anything less than a 6.1 or 6.4.
9:08 Over rated ? Let me guess you think crank power should be wheel power because that's the only way you can say it's not meeting rated power which no engine manufacturer or car manufacturer rates engine output by wheel power 😅. I have a 13 Durango RT it's always going to be slower than a 14+ due to it not having the benefit of better final gearing due to the 65rfe vs the 8spd and there being no gears available for these Durango and jeep axles lower than 3.70 so you can't get your gearing in the pumpkins it has to come from the gear boxes unless you swap axles which isn't worth the cost . I got 335 /375 AWD wheel power up from 270/320 after just bolt ons and tune I'm adding a nitrous kit to this to bump it up to the 400s at the wheels it's reasonably cheap and the nitrous kit and other bolt ons can be swapped to my next Durango or Jeep that will have the 8spd and get a gear swap from 3.09 to 3.45-3.70 the 65rfe has 3.45 but it only has a 3.00 1st , 1.66 2nd and 1.50 "3rd" then 1.00 4th 5-6 are od gears the 8spd is 4.71 3.16 2.10,1.66 1.25 ,1.00 then 7-8 od gears...even the w5a580 (nag1) has a 3.68 1st . The rfe trans equiped vehicles will always suck in gearing without a swap to deep diff gears and some platforms that can't really be done . For reference to gearing the 6.1 in the jeep had the w5a580 and 3.70 rear axle gearing combo giving it a 13.2:1 first gear final drive vs a 10.35:1 with the RFE 3.00 and 3.45 ...alot of the performance of comparison of a 5.7 vs the 6.1 is from the platforms they came in having a better performance gearing in the 6.1 platforms.
How is it possible to be so inefficient with almost 6 liters of displacement...... Not even getting into mds issues, lifter failures, poor quality control and most importantly cheap metals. Theres a large list of excellent motors for modifying, the 5.7 "hemi" aint one of them. This is not meant as disrepect to anyone who owns a 5.7 motor just putting some truth out there. Seeing alot of comments saying things like "the 5.7 is a great motor!" again not saying its the worst thing ever but lets stop the cap plz.
Because the 5.7 is a more basic and bare bones design than any other v8 engine made after the early to mid 2010s. It's a simple, large v8 pushrod engine, minimal electronic assistance for the engine itself. Compare it to something like the coyote which has dohc then yes, obviously the more modernized dohc engine with electronic help will be faster. The hemi is actually great for modifying, but leaves a lot desired when it's stock. BTW, the 5.7 hemi never even got direct injection, only port injection which just shoes it's a simple engine. If you wanna talk reliability, the LS engines are also known for lifter issues and cylinder wear issues, the ecoboost has cam phaser issues and turbo issues along with using plastic everywhere, and the coyote has cam phaser issues, and oil consumption issues.
Very good information.
My 2016 5.7 shaker started the hemi tick and failing lifter. Never planned to build it until that happened.
Texas speed stage 3 kit
Hellcat lifters
Bbk headers - cat delete
Flowmaster exhaust
And a great tune by the shop. You can throw parts at these cars, but the tune makes the build.
Pro charger is next.
J - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps. Thanks for sharing your build!
Would you be able to keep the shaker with that procharger?
@@jonmcrae7839 yes. Pro charger makes one that fits along the right side of it.
@@jonmcrae7839 th-cam.com/video/0yuTRPE-8S4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ida10ih9bmEoyfXY
@@JefferyOtis-g3qThanks for the info!
Definitely recommend a tune. 93 octane from Hemi Fever runs great with HellCat lower airbox and HellCat stock air filter which outflows a Cold Air Intake usually and brings in actually cooler air then under the hood temperatures. Also a lower temperature thermostat which changed the tune for the fans to come on earlier to keep the temperatures down.
M - Thanks for sharing!
These 5.7s are capable of 4.6 0-60s bone stock with just a tire mod. You won’t win any roll races in these slow boats but you can catch a lot of people sleeping on a dig in stop light races with some traction and good reaction time. Fun car to have as a modest daily.
T - Well said! Thanks for sharing.
0-60 is a stupid stat imo. It's more about the tire and surface than how fast the car is.
@midnight347 especially because most everyone who quotes it says 0-60 but really they mean with roll out. It's not actually stupid not every car has a good 0-60 but in drag racing the hit is probably the best most important. Not all cars 60ft well even though they have the same tire because a class says they need to all tun the same. A muscle car was made to drag race which means 0-60 especially on the street matters.
You want real power get a bge block from a scat or a hellcat then build that it will be much more capable 2000hp plus capable factory block.
They are capable of faster than that
for my 09 R/T chally 6m (3.92 rear diff) owned since 2012, all my mods are , 6.4 srt cam, 6.1 srt headers and mids, full 6.4 srt cat back ,6.4 ported active intake and yes wired to function, 180 deg thermostat custom CAI breathing from the left fender ,IAT relocated) ported fastman TB, regular copper ngk core plugs, zeitronix wide band o2, 18" rims and tires, full urethane rear cradle bushing kit (wheel hop no more) i have done numerous 0-60 runs on average 4 sec with good launches , never got a dyno or took her to the track ,but what im sensing low 12's and about 430 hp , just guessing but it keeps right up with or even nudges out every 6.4 srt's and beats my buds 09 6m srt 6.1 chally easily.
F - Hell yeah. Sounds like a sick build. Thanks for sharing!
I added a 3.09 limited slip diff and shorty headers. Cold air intake and a throttle body
R - Nice! Sounds like a sweet build. Any idea on hp?
@ I will dyno as soon as I put a tune on it. I will also deleted the rear resonator.
R - Keep us updated!
update?
Dodges 5.7L crate motor that they say is the Exact motor in the 2015+ challenger,chargers. They rate it at 383 H.P. 417 lbft Torgue.
D - Thanks for the added info!
Incredible Hemi was about to run 12.7 1/4 mile with stock cam and mostly just bolt on/offs. And thats with a quad cab 4x4.
B - Thanks for sharing.
I have a 17 300 5.7. Intake, 85mm throttle body, mid muffler delete, 180 t-stat, long tube hi Flo catted stainless works headers all tied together with a Hemi fever engine and trans tune. Car feels very healthy. Still haven’t dynoed it yet. I’ve had 4.6 runs to 60. How much whp do you think I added?
I’m going straight for the Whipple charger on my Durango then other supporting mods there after
E - Nice!
Been thinking of throwing a procharged 5.7 build into a foxbody with a 6-speed manual. Not going for high HP just looking for 550-650rwhp Nothing crazy
Thats more than enough for that light foxbody
@@thesupersaiyan6454 yeah I want to keep it for street use, maybe just a drift build lol (Thinking of a 397 stroker with procharger).. would be cool, different and Nasty compared to the usual LS stuff
@@mariQ09 hellyeah 🤘🏽
M - Nailed it on the head. Sounds like a sick build. Keep us updated.
My 2015 r/t has 6.4 headers , tuned , 2.62 diff which is the most bad one in mopar , did 13.09 in dragy for 1/4 mile with china tires , i think it will hit around 385 to 390 hp in dyno
B - Nice build! Keep us updated on numbers when you have them.
Did you even talk about the eldabrock blower?
P - Guess not.
I have a 2022 Challenger RT with BBK
Shorty Headers, 90mm BBK Trottlebody, Inject Cold air intake and a mid muffler delete
How much horsepower do you think I can increase?
I haven't tune the vehicle yet.
G - You can add all of the mods we list in the video.
@@8020Media the mods i messaged you are the ones I currently have and I was just curious to see how much horsepower I might have and would you recommend for me to tune the vehicle?
G - We misunderstood your comment. You've maybe added 30hp depending on the exact setup. We always recommend tuning as it makes the engine more efficient depending on the tune you run.
@@8020Media Got it. One thing I didn’t want to do was add a cam and a 392 intake manifold, but I was told that you need to tune the vehicle once those two parts
G - Correct. Do what you're comfortable doing. At the end of the day, it's your build and you can do what you want. Hope the video helped!
The cheapest way is to just swap the the car out to a 6.1L hemi if you want the 425 hp I sold my 57 for a 6.1L
Z - Would have to disagree that it's the "cheapest" way. Some may not be able to afford it.
5.7 can beat the 6.1 with the money spent
B - True.
I have a 2022 Challenger RT with BBK Shorty Headers, 90mm BBK Trottlebody, Inject Cold air intake and a mid muffler delete
How much horsepower do you think I can increase?
I haven’t tune the vehicle yet .
@@8020Mediaand you can add more boost on a 5.7
My 5.7 Daytona came with a cold air intake. Would I see any difference if I went with a aftermarket brand like JLT?
T - Came with an aftermarket intake?
@@8020Media no sir it’s stock. Daytonas and challenger T/A come with mopar CAI
T - It depends, but more than likely you can keep the stock one.
@@8020Media yeah probably was kinda hoping to get a JLT lol
T - Not saying you can't, just don't know if that would be worth the money.
Why do 2018 ram make 420. ?.
M - What?
can you do a vid on the 5,7 vortec or 7.4 liter
M - We will add it to the list!
Owning two hemi. I agree top 5 mods but not cold air intake I rather put 6.4 intake manifold. Cold air intake don't do anything just looks good and nice engine nosie.
L - This is always has and will be a debate. We stand by the cold air intakes, but appreciate your opinion!
I got to the end of the vid when u mentioned the intake manifold upgrade. Anyone reading this, avoid the edelbrock 7179. I fills up my catch can so fast that I have to check it at most every 2 weeks. by then it's about 1/2 full and that's using the extra large mishimoto can. I have to switch it out at some point so that's about 2k down the toilet. if ya'll look up reviews, you'll see I'm not the only one experiencing that. I've called edelbrock and they said they have no idea what I'm talking about sooo yeah. & yes, I took the car in to be diagnosed as soon as it happened. I noticed about a week after installing that intake
An intake manifold swap alone won’t cause any change to how much oil is in your catch can.
The manifold doesn’t change the crankcase pressure or how much vacuum you see on deceleration
Excessive oil in catch cans is usually caused by blow by from piston rings
P - Thanks for taking the time to share this! It will certainly be helpful for future viewers.
why is the 5.7 in the 300 S sooooo underpowered @ 363 hp vs the RAM 1500 which comes out the factory @ 395 hp..
The SUV are the same only 360/390 vs 395/410 for the 1500 . I have an afe cold air , MMX ported TB, MMX 6.4 intake manifold swap, long tube headers, cat back and msd packs with hemi fever tuning I also have billet valve body in the 65rfe as I have 13 AWD Durango and missed the 8spd by 1 year . I made stock 270/320 after the parts and tuning I make 335/375 at the wheels peak and there are even bigger gains in low mid torque I figure crank power is now 420-430 and torque 440-450 . I'm thinking of a mild cam like the mmx 5.7 no tune VVT cam but I can't easily swap that over to my next Durango or Jeep with a 5.7 . I have a wet nitrous throttle plate kit coming will probably run 75-100 . I will probably keep the 91 octane tune and run octane booster like torco to get the added points in octane vs dropping points in timing . The 65rfe seems to do well with the much improved performance valve body vs the stock if you have an 8spd it's even better power handling. I'm trying to keep all my stock parts and keep the parts added to things I can realistically pull off and return to stock when I retire this 65rfe Durango RT the 300s I believe go the w5a580 (nag1) 5 speed it it's pretty zf 8spd which is a great geared transmission vs the shit RFE which also has no aftermarket regearing support for the newer independent axles like the jeep and Durango so it will always be a dog compared to a newer 8spd or even a 1500 RFE since they can regear to deep gears for performance .
It's a tune thing. SUVs and Sedans are aimed at comfort, smoothness, and efficiency. So they tune it to have a flatter torque curve at the low end but less peak power at the top.
I have the 5.7 hemi tow and go. I meed to open her up.
It has the same power as the 1500 ran 5.7 hemi 395 hp . Hence the "Tow N Go'😂
I need more SpeeD
E - Hope this video helps! Keep us updated on your build.
These cars are simply that. Cars with a trucks engine stuffed under the hood. FCA was crippled by the EPA and had to kill the 5.7 power in lieu of economy. With that said, with all that ive done to this car, i get 2 more MPG than my wifes Acura, and itll walk all over it with half throttle. Yes. Shes tried 😂
My pic was a stock benchmark. It was raining which you can see upon closer inspection. XD
M - True! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Stop preaching cold air intakes on stock cars!!!!!! #hotairintake
B - This argument is comical and we get it all the time.
The 5.7 is underwhelming in all respects. Maybe if it wasn't in overly heavy vehicles or wasn't overrated from the factory or it wasnt so peaky...it wouldn't be comparable (0 to 60 and quarter mile times) to everyone else's v6 and turbo 4 engines.
If you have a 5.7...don't bother with bolt on mods...just add forced induction so you can play with the big boys.
I have owned 3 vehicles with the 5.7 hemi and wouldn't bother with anything less than a 6.1 or 6.4.
M - Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
9:08 Over rated ? Let me guess you think crank power should be wheel power because that's the only way you can say it's not meeting rated power which no engine manufacturer or car manufacturer rates engine output by wheel power 😅. I have a 13 Durango RT it's always going to be slower than a 14+ due to it not having the benefit of better final gearing due to the 65rfe vs the 8spd and there being no gears available for these Durango and jeep axles lower than 3.70 so you can't get your gearing in the pumpkins it has to come from the gear boxes unless you swap axles which isn't worth the cost . I got 335 /375 AWD wheel power up from 270/320 after just bolt ons and tune I'm adding a nitrous kit to this to bump it up to the 400s at the wheels it's reasonably cheap and the nitrous kit and other bolt ons can be swapped to my next Durango or Jeep that will have the 8spd and get a gear swap from 3.09 to 3.45-3.70 the 65rfe has 3.45 but it only has a 3.00 1st , 1.66 2nd and 1.50 "3rd" then 1.00 4th 5-6 are od gears the 8spd is 4.71 3.16 2.10,1.66 1.25 ,1.00 then 7-8 od gears...even the w5a580 (nag1) has a 3.68 1st . The rfe trans equiped vehicles will always suck in gearing without a swap to deep diff gears and some platforms that can't really be done .
For reference to gearing the 6.1 in the jeep had the w5a580 and 3.70 rear axle gearing combo giving it a 13.2:1 first gear final drive vs a 10.35:1 with the RFE 3.00 and 3.45 ...alot of the performance of comparison of a 5.7 vs the 6.1 is from the platforms they came in having a better performance gearing in the 6.1 platforms.
Y - Thanks for sharing this insight.
@@yerwrngI swapped my 2.62 open to the 3.09 Limited Slip…night and day difference
@@mattieice4689 thank god i got the 6-speed manual which came with the 3.09 LSD from factory
Best 5.7 mod: buy a 6.1😂
A - We like the 5.7! But 6.1 is also good!
How is it possible to be so inefficient with almost 6 liters of displacement...... Not even getting into mds issues, lifter failures, poor quality control and most importantly cheap metals. Theres a large list of excellent motors for modifying, the 5.7 "hemi" aint one of them. This is not meant as disrepect to anyone who owns a 5.7 motor just putting some truth out there. Seeing alot of comments saying things like "the 5.7 is a great motor!" again not saying its the worst thing ever but lets stop the cap plz.
D - Lol. The 5.7 isn't a bad engine..
It sounds great stock, makes enough power to be fun, and in case you didn’t watch the video, it’s extremely receptive to mods. Great engine.
B - Well said!
Because the 5.7 is a more basic and bare bones design than any other v8 engine made after the early to mid 2010s. It's a simple, large v8 pushrod engine, minimal electronic assistance for the engine itself. Compare it to something like the coyote which has dohc then yes, obviously the more modernized dohc engine with electronic help will be faster. The hemi is actually great for modifying, but leaves a lot desired when it's stock. BTW, the 5.7 hemi never even got direct injection, only port injection which just shoes it's a simple engine. If you wanna talk reliability, the LS engines are also known for lifter issues and cylinder wear issues, the ecoboost has cam phaser issues and turbo issues along with using plastic everywhere, and the coyote has cam phaser issues, and oil consumption issues.
The 5.7 is actually extremely reliable