I just bought a 2023 Kia Sportage, & I researched all the carbon issues associated with Direct injection engines & the pitfalls, luckily mine has a SmartStream 2.5L engine that has duel injections, GDI & MPI , with both injections the carbon isn’t supposed to buildup. You can find videos explaining the differences. FYI carbon is NOT singular to Kia’s. I’m glad I have what I have & manufactures have realized the concerns & addressed them. Good 👍🏾 job Kia.
@mikeheckman4995 my 2018 Ford F150 2.7 v6 has dual fuel injectors (6 direct injection and 6 conventional port injectors) and i have not see any oil comsumption with extended 10,000 mile oil changes. I currently have 110,000 miles on the odometer.
One of my coworkers owned a hyundai oil user of the same era. He had good luck lowering oil consumption by doing Berryman B12 piston ring flush when oil usage got excessive. Low tension piston rings and poor oil ring design are the issue causing oil burning not the GDI which does cause intake valve fouling.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194I'm in the process of soaking my piston rings now with the Berryman B12. My 2014 Sportage started burning oil at 80,000 and has gotten much worse. One explanation that made sense was that carbon from the valves flakes off and clogs up the oil rings. Some people swear by the soak method even on other makes.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 Heres a reply I did on another vieo. I have a 2014 Kia Sportage that started using oil at 80,000 miles. I wracked my brain trying to figure out where the oil was going cause it smoked vey little. Only when I gave it a lot of gas. It was using over a quart every 1000 miles and getting worse. I noticed it wasnt like any other car I ever had that burned oil because of bad rings or valve seals. The car still had lots of power and great MPG around 30 combined driving. The engine is a 2.4L. It had to be the oil rings either clogged with carbon or stuck. I soaked the rings with Sea Foam after I watched a video of a guy doing it. After that I changed the oil filter. Plus I added 5 ounces of Sea Foam to the oil. I then drove the car on an open road with little traffic by dropping the transmission into a lower gear and getting it up to 4000-5000 rpms then letting off the gas letting the engine brake the car. I kept doing this vigorously for maybe 2-3 miles. I drove back home checked the oil level which was on full and after driving now for 1200 miles it hasnt used a drop. Now you tell me what fixed it because I dont know which of the 2 that did or if the 2 things combined fixed it but I am still in shock and very happy. The car has 154,000 miles on it.
Number one rule: AVOID DIREKT INJECTION CARS!!!! Two: Regular oil/filter changes. Better too often than too long. Three: A vehicle that is easy too service! Happy Motoring.
Thanks, Justin! Absolutely, there are many makes and models that suffer from this problem. It's great to hear that manufacturers are paying attention and making changes to remedy carbon build-up issues. Would love to hear what you are experiencing in your Sportage around 70,000 miles.
No doubt, 👍🏾 I’ll definitely will be posting my experiences, I drive highway miles to work daily of about 90 miles daily and have every intention of getting my 100K mileage warranty. 😊 I think I lucked up on getting a duel injection engine, but Kia knew better. Lol 😂
There are many ways to possibly reduce oil consumption: Change pcv valve Use engine flush like BG EPR Use high quality Synthetic oil Go up an oil grade Use combustion chamber cleaner occasionally like BG 44k The best by far is a piston soak process to free the oil rings. You really should have Dealership do a oil consumption test. When excessive they will replace the engine usually for free.
Those final thoughts about those issues being the price of a nomad life, those have me a warm cozy feeling! Yes! A low price to be paid in order to go where the wind takes us. I will keep researching to find a cart drawn by horses. It will be my alternative!!! 😂
Yep, walnut blast is the best cure for carbon build up on GDI engines. Gets ‘em like new. I suggest using Amsoil 100% synthetic Signature Series motor oil and Shell premium fuel. To prevent further build up, use CRC intake valve cleaner 100-300 miles before each oil change. A quality oil catch-can is a must for turbo engines. That’s my two cents. I hope that you’re trouble free for many miles!!
I had no idea this comment thread would become a Wikipedia of sorts for this issue, but I'm happy to provide a spot for troubleshooting. Thanks everyone!
Probably so, but search around on TH-cam and compare the notes of some if the pros out there. A quality catch can is fairly inexpensive and requires very little maintanance. Any mediocre mechanic should have no problem installing it correctly within 30 minutes.
I have a 2017 Sorento with same problem. It has 58,000 miles on it now. Uses a quart about every 1000 miles. I have had the intake valves/manifold cleaned twice. (Dealer engine cleaner) It is under warranty and the next time they do a mileage check, if the oil usage is 1 quart for less than 1000 miles they will do a ring cleaner solution down spark plug holes ..overnight sits according to Kia technical service bulletin. If that doesn't work, I am told by the dealer that I will get a new free engine. I take it to the dealer for every oil change. I bought a new PCV valve but didn't put it on yet. Not surprised at no response by dealer on walnut shell approach. They don't do that stuff. Some people on TH-cam have had success with ring cleaner approach.
Top tier gas and typical fuel injection cleaners will not stop the valves getting carboned up. This is because no fuel washes off the back of the valves like port injection does.
I use Costco, Synthetic dexos rev 3 oil,, 5W-30 which is slightly better than dealer who uses Dexos 2. The engine cap says 5W-20 but I think dealers know the trouble on these engines..so they use 5W-30 anyway.
I am not sure how the carbon buildup and oil consumption are related. These engines are known for oil consumption and in some cases, if it is severe enough, you can get a replacement engine under warranty. You have to hound the dealership though. No amount of cleaning will solve the oil consumption issue. Only a proper engine rebuild will. So try to get a motor if you are still under warranty.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 The manufacturer's warranty is vehicle-specific by law, it does not matter whether the car has had 10 owners. For a Hyundai or Kia, it is up to 100k miles.
Kia's/Hyundais have bad engine designs. Lots of oil consumption due to stuck oil rings due to carbon. They also have major engine failure due to bearing failure. They are replacing lots of blown engines.
2016 Kia Sorento - 3.3L Engine. 86k miles. Oil burnt out within 3k miles causing the car to knock and loose power. Diagnostic test stated bad Right and Left Exhaust Solenoid need replacing. When they were pulled out, there was aluminum particles wrapped around them and throughout the head. When the new solenoids where installed it did not help. Engine is dead. Kia will do nothing...... I am livid... any suggestions.
Im in a similar predicament, my engine seized on the highway in the fast lane. Vehicle has always been serviced by Kia dealer, who refused to honour warranty after the failure. Its been a year now of huggling with Kia. An independent technician is coming to inspect vehicle tomorrow to determine causation so hopefully we can use his report to get kia to replace. I honestly dont know why people are still buying these cars or choosing to keep them.
Here's the list of items and cost: -Compressor with appropriate hose length (already had) -Wet/dry shop vac with appropriate hose length (already had) -Walnut shells (we used 5 pound bag) $22 on Amazon -Harbor Freight dispensor for walnut shells $30 -Harbor Freight nozzle for compressor $30 -Adaptor cover for chamber openings with nozzle opening for walnut shells $15 on Amazon -1-1/4" nozzle and 1-1/4" hose for shop/vac to remove walnut shells from intake valve chamber $15 on Amazon
I personally don't plan on buying any vehicle with turbo (or supercharger) or mechanical CVT or GDI only injection. If you buy an European or Korean car don't keep it past warranty.
The gas mileage remains where it is supposed to be, but the oil consumption is still excessive. I've inquired with two mechanics that say as long as I don't have stalling or blue smoke to just keep adding oil when needed. It sounds like the job is tedious to dismantle the engine enough to fix adequately, and no one wants to take the time to do that.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 okay so you're still having that issue even after the walnut blasting , My 2017 Kia Sorento with a GDI engine is constantly having the same issue too by burning through oil like crazy
@knowmadyourownnomad8194 I'm telling you as a person who can hear piston slap from 300 yards away and can smell when a car needs spark plugs. Get rid of it. Get a Toyota or Honda or a Mazda. Kia is a time bomb. Please. Save yourself the 12 to 15k loss a blown motor saddles you with.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 GEi engines also also gasoline to seep into the oil, which degrades it rapidly. Change the oil every 3,000 miles and ever miss a change by 10 miles.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 +1. My 2015 Forte has a GDI engine and after 100K still runs like new. Yes it does burn some oil but in my research this issue is not by any means limited to Kia/Hyundai. Many European and Japanese makes and models (including, in one source, Toyota) can burn significant amounts of oil between engine services. Bottom line, regardless of what you drive, everyone should check their oil level on a regular basis, especially if your vehicle has more than 70K miles on the engine.
I don't know about that, I've got 414,000 miles on my 2008 Optima with no problems other then a new alternator and the usual rust for my area. Oil changes were done at 5-6k with the cheapest conventional on sale at the time of service. It still runs strong but is showing its age, pre GDI 4 cylinder. EDIT: watching this video to try and help a friend with a 2012 Sonata oil eater, GDI with 160,000 miles
I just bought a 2023 Kia Sportage, & I researched all the carbon issues associated with Direct injection engines & the pitfalls, luckily mine has a SmartStream 2.5L engine that has duel injections, GDI & MPI , with both injections the carbon isn’t supposed to buildup. You can find videos explaining the differences. FYI carbon is NOT singular to Kia’s. I’m glad I have what I have & manufactures have realized the concerns & addressed them. Good 👍🏾 job Kia.
Yes, KIA is not the only one!
Duel injectors are a great idea.
@mikeheckman4995 my 2018 Ford F150 2.7 v6 has dual fuel injectors (6 direct injection and 6 conventional port injectors) and i have not see any oil comsumption with extended 10,000 mile oil changes. I currently have 110,000 miles on the odometer.
We have a 2020 Sorento with a V6 . Bought it new, I have done all oil changes with Mobil 1 5-30w. Zero oil usage and zero problems at over 70k miles.
Congratulations! I've talked with owners of many other makes and models with similar issues since making this video, so you are fortunate indeed.
One of my coworkers owned a hyundai oil user of the same era. He had good luck lowering oil consumption by doing Berryman B12 piston ring flush when oil usage got excessive. Low tension piston rings and poor oil ring design are the issue causing oil burning not the GDI which does cause intake valve fouling.
I've not seen that in the research we've done. Thanks for your contribution!
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194I'm in the process of soaking my piston rings now with the Berryman B12. My 2014 Sportage started burning oil at 80,000 and has gotten much worse. One explanation that made sense was that carbon from the valves flakes off and clogs up the oil rings. Some people swear by the soak method even on other makes.
@@KiskassklanHope that method worked for you!
@knowmadyourownnomad8194 I haven't driven it since soaking the rings but I'll be able to tell within 500 miles.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 Heres a reply I did on another vieo. I have a 2014 Kia Sportage that started using oil at 80,000 miles. I wracked my brain trying to figure out where the oil was going cause it smoked vey little. Only when I gave it a lot of gas. It was using over a quart every 1000 miles and getting worse. I noticed it wasnt like any other car I ever had that burned oil because of bad rings or valve seals. The car still had lots of power and great MPG around 30 combined driving. The engine is a 2.4L. It had to be the oil rings either clogged with carbon or stuck. I soaked the rings with Sea Foam after I watched a video of a guy doing it. After that I changed the oil filter. Plus I added 5 ounces of Sea Foam to the oil. I then drove the car on an open road with little traffic by dropping the transmission into a lower gear and getting it up to 4000-5000 rpms then letting off the gas letting the engine brake the car. I kept doing this vigorously for maybe 2-3 miles. I drove back home checked the oil level which was on full and after driving now for 1200 miles it hasnt used a drop. Now you tell me what fixed it because I dont know which of the 2 that did or if the 2 things combined fixed it but I am still in shock and very happy. The car has 154,000 miles on it.
Number one rule: AVOID DIREKT INJECTION CARS!!!!
Two: Regular oil/filter changes. Better too often than too long.
Three: A vehicle that is easy too service!
Happy Motoring.
You as well.
You hit every remedy I’ve seen about GDI technology. Very knowledgeable 👍🏾
Thanks, Justin! Absolutely, there are many makes and models that suffer from this problem. It's great to hear that manufacturers are paying attention and making changes to remedy carbon build-up issues. Would love to hear what you are experiencing in your Sportage around 70,000 miles.
No doubt, 👍🏾 I’ll definitely will be posting my experiences, I drive highway miles to work daily of about 90 miles daily and have every intention of getting my 100K mileage warranty. 😊
I think I lucked up on getting a duel injection engine, but Kia knew better. Lol 😂
There are many ways to possibly reduce oil consumption:
Change pcv valve
Use engine flush like BG EPR
Use high quality Synthetic oil
Go up an oil grade
Use combustion chamber cleaner occasionally like BG 44k
The best by far is a piston soak process to free the oil rings.
You really should have Dealership do a oil consumption test. When excessive they will replace the engine usually for free.
@zzman5306 Are you a mechanic, or someone who has had to deal with this painful issue before?
I have a 2021 Sportage. One of the first things I did was put on a catch can. I also change pcv valve every 10,000 miles.
Just curious what the volume is that accumulates in the catch can.
Those final thoughts about those issues being the price of a nomad life, those have me a warm cozy feeling! Yes! A low price to be paid in order to go where the wind takes us.
I will keep researching to find a cart drawn by horses. It will be my alternative!!! 😂
I'll join you!
Yep, walnut blast is the best cure for carbon build up on GDI engines. Gets ‘em like new. I suggest using Amsoil 100% synthetic Signature Series motor oil and Shell premium fuel. To prevent further build up, use CRC intake valve cleaner 100-300 miles before each oil change. A quality oil catch-can is a must for turbo engines. That’s my two cents. I hope that you’re trouble free for many miles!!
I had no idea this comment thread would become a Wikipedia of sorts for this issue, but I'm happy to provide a spot for troubleshooting. Thanks everyone!
I see you mentioned turbo engine. Is one beneficial for the 3.3l v6
Probably so, but search around on TH-cam and compare the notes of some if the pros out there. A quality catch can is fairly inexpensive and requires very little maintanance. Any mediocre mechanic should have no problem installing it correctly within 30 minutes.
I have a 2017 Sorento with same problem. It has 58,000 miles on it now. Uses a quart about every 1000 miles. I have had the intake valves/manifold cleaned twice. (Dealer engine cleaner) It is under warranty and the next time they do a mileage check, if the oil usage is 1 quart for less than 1000 miles they will do a ring cleaner solution down spark plug holes ..overnight sits according to Kia technical service bulletin. If that doesn't work, I am told by the dealer that I will get a new free engine. I take it to the dealer for every oil change. I bought a new PCV valve but didn't put it on yet. Not surprised at no response by dealer on walnut shell approach. They don't do that stuff. Some people on TH-cam have had success with ring cleaner approach.
Good luck with finding your best solution!
Hello what oil viscosity you're using ?
@@mooauto2388 I use 5W-30 synthetic
You could try using a heavier weight synthetic oil..ie 10w40, best to research on that first though
Yes, everyone should research what oil type is appropriate for their vehicle.
please document your oil changes, you may need that for kia in case they warranty the engine in the future
I document all maintenance on my vehicle
Top tier gas and typical fuel injection cleaners will not stop the valves getting carboned up. This is because no fuel washes off the back of the valves like port injection does.
Interesting
I use Costco, Synthetic dexos rev 3 oil,, 5W-30 which is slightly better than dealer who uses Dexos 2. The engine cap says 5W-20 but I think dealers know the trouble on these engines..so they use 5W-30 anyway.
That's my understanding as well, 5W-30 is what gets used by dealers.
I am not sure how the carbon buildup and oil consumption are related. These engines are known for oil consumption and in some cases, if it is severe enough, you can get a replacement engine under warranty. You have to hound the dealership though.
No amount of cleaning will solve the oil consumption issue. Only a proper engine rebuild will. So try to get a motor if you are still under warranty.
Unfortunately for many of us, we are not the original owners of these vehicles, and that avenue of recourse is not open to us.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 The manufacturer's warranty is vehicle-specific by law, it does not matter whether the car has had 10 owners. For a Hyundai or Kia, it is up to 100k miles.
@@moshet842I am past that now, but maybe this will help someone else. Thanks!
Carbon can make the rings stick as they use low tension rings. This can cause oil consumption.
Kia's/Hyundais have bad engine designs. Lots of oil consumption due to stuck oil rings due to carbon. They also have major engine failure due to bearing failure. They are replacing lots of blown engines.
Have you had one replaced?
I have kia sportage 2017 .I did every possible senario to solve oil consumption burning. None is working. I hope ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,?
The walnut shell treatment is definitely a commitment in time and process, but it worked for me. Good luck!
Eventually a replacement engine when it gets bad enough. Have dealership do a consumption test.
2016 Kia Sorento - 3.3L Engine. 86k miles. Oil burnt out within 3k miles causing the car to knock and loose power. Diagnostic test stated bad Right and Left Exhaust Solenoid need replacing. When they were pulled out, there was aluminum particles wrapped around them and throughout the head. When the new solenoids where installed it did not help. Engine is dead. Kia will do nothing...... I am livid... any suggestions.
I would be livid too!
If the car is still under warranty, threaten to see a lawyer. They might listen.
Im in a similar predicament, my engine seized on the highway in the fast lane. Vehicle has always been serviced by Kia dealer, who refused to honour warranty after the failure. Its been a year now of huggling with Kia. An independent technician is coming to inspect vehicle tomorrow to determine causation so hopefully we can use his report to get kia to replace. I honestly dont know why people are still buying these cars or choosing to keep them.
Oil catch can
Thank you
What was the cost to clean the intake valves?
Here's the list of items and cost: -Compressor with appropriate hose length (already had)
-Wet/dry shop vac with appropriate hose length (already had)
-Walnut shells (we used 5 pound bag) $22 on Amazon
-Harbor Freight dispensor for walnut shells $30
-Harbor Freight nozzle for compressor $30
-Adaptor cover for chamber openings with nozzle opening for walnut shells $15 on Amazon
-1-1/4" nozzle and 1-1/4" hose for shop/vac to remove walnut shells from intake valve chamber $15 on Amazon
I personally don't plan on buying any vehicle with turbo (or supercharger) or mechanical CVT or GDI only injection. If you buy an European or Korean car don't keep it past warranty.
Good advice when one buys new, different for those of us who choose not to deal with the drop in value once the vehicle leaves the lot.
Do you still have this issue
The gas mileage remains where it is supposed to be, but the oil consumption is still excessive. I've inquired with two mechanics that say as long as I don't have stalling or blue smoke to just keep adding oil when needed. It sounds like the job is tedious to dismantle the engine enough to fix adequately, and no one wants to take the time to do that.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 okay so you're still having that issue even after the walnut blasting , My 2017 Kia Sorento with a GDI engine is constantly having the same issue too by burning through oil like crazy
Kia are not made well. You need to get rid of it.
My overall experience with this vehicle has been positive. I'll definitely be keeping in mind what owning a GDI engine requires for future rigs.
@knowmadyourownnomad8194 I'm telling you as a person who can hear piston slap from 300 yards away and can smell when a car needs spark plugs. Get rid of it. Get a Toyota or Honda or a Mazda. Kia is a time bomb. Please. Save yourself the 12 to 15k loss a blown motor saddles you with.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 GEi engines also also gasoline to seep into the oil, which degrades it rapidly. Change the oil every 3,000 miles and ever miss a change by 10 miles.
@@knowmadyourownnomad8194 +1. My 2015 Forte has a GDI engine and after 100K still runs like new. Yes it does burn some oil but in my research this issue is not by any means limited to Kia/Hyundai. Many European and Japanese makes and models (including, in one source, Toyota) can burn significant amounts of oil between engine services. Bottom line, regardless of what you drive, everyone should check their oil level on a regular basis, especially if your vehicle has more than 70K miles on the engine.
I don't know about that, I've got 414,000 miles on my 2008 Optima with no problems other then a new alternator and the usual rust for my area. Oil changes were done at 5-6k with the cheapest conventional on sale at the time of service. It still runs strong but is showing its age, pre GDI 4 cylinder. EDIT: watching this video to try and help a friend with a 2012 Sonata oil eater, GDI with 160,000 miles