I did this to a SCION XB that was burning 1.5 quarts between OCI. Did two soaks of Berrymans, let it soak 24 hrs. MAKE SURE to flush the oil that was used in soaks BEFORE firing engine!!! Oil is cheap, engines aren’t! After I installed VALVOLINE Restore & Protect 0w-20 oil(only oil that can clean piston rings and internals). Zero oil usage in this first interval. Very impressed!
Thanks a lot for the video I followed your instructions step by step, in europe we dont have B12 so I used STANDARD THINNERS from EURO CAR PARTS, I have already done 5000 miles, 8000 km without adding oil. my audi q5 tfsi 2011 before this tratment I used to add 1 liter oil every 500 miles and in summer with high temperatures I added oil every 300 miles. Cheers
Thanks for sharing this. I have 2015 Q5 with 130kkm and had this soak one week ago, and like to share some info. My Q5 started oil level warning 2-3 years ago, and we had to add 1L oil ourself when the light came (the dealer recommended). 2 month ago it got worse needed adding oil in couple of weeks (less than 300km). After doing research over a year and watching several videos, I decided do this Soak with the method in this video. I order 3 Berryman 0116 B-12, and used 2 of them, mostly it went well. 2 notes from my soak: (1) could not turn the crank clockwise; had to turn counterclockwise for level the cylinders; (2) had low engine pressure (engine shaking) when starting the car after replacing spark plugs, oil and filter; the issue disappeared after reattaching the oil cap, oil check cap, and pushing all spark plugs connectors. Will update the result after months. I believe it will help adding the B12 into gas regularly like every 6 month.
This method does work. I have a 2009 Audi A4 with 146,000 miles with an APR Stage II tune. I did the soak about a few months ago. I went from 100ish miles per quart to 765 Miles a quart. I would probably get 1000+ miles per quart but I do a lot of high RPM pulls with my spirited driving style. I was contemplating redoing the pistons but this is definitely a more cost effective way to take care of the oil consumption. Sure it is not a permanent fix but at my mileage I rather spend the money on something else haha.
When I did my Q5, I experienced a complication that all should be cautious of. The B-12 loosened so much carbon that it settled in the low point of the sloped cylinder and when the piston hit the head with carbon, it wouldn't pass TDC. Thus I recommend that before rotating, borescope and check. I finally got it past TDC with much worry. 8000 miles later, haven't had to top off the oil between oil change at 4500 miles.
@@silentyouber2816 misspelled, it wouldn't pass top dead center with much worry. Now near 9k since B-12 treatment, 121200 miles on engine, no abnormal oil consumption.
Just finished up! Driving for 30 min scared the hell out of me for running rough haha but once I changed the oil it’s purring smoothly! Will update on my oil consumption after a few weeks. Appreciate the help brother!
Yup liqui moly and a little liqui moly oil saver with Mann filter. Considering using rislone engine treatment, word is you pour that 400ml every oil change and the rings will never foul up like that again but haven’t found anywhere else where that product was used on these b8s so gonna hold off for now
That is not what Valvoline claims. They state several oil changes to notice a difference. If the oil control rings are coked with hard carbon deposits however, an agressive solvent is required. There are nowhere enough detergents in any engine oil to clean hardened carbon out of oil rings or lands on a known oil consuming design.
@@xlightssx he said it as a "matter of fact". I am just stating that it won't help coked oil rings. Will it gently clean up other things? I am sure it will. Superheated hardened carbon though? Not a chance.
When I do that I also drain the oil put in T6/T5 Rotella 15W40 and put in 1 quart of Toluene and idle it for 30 minutes then dump and refill... It is basically the same cleaning wise as a BG Dynamic flush for freeing up oil control rings and drainback holes.
Ok i just finished piston soak and everything went smooth. New oil, oil filter and new spark plugs! Old spark plugs did not look good at all they looked like it was never replaced with 86,000 miles. I am 3 owner and just wonder if they are ever replaced? Cylinder #1 was good ,#2,#3,#4 are all cover with white residue witch indicates burning oil. Cylinder #3 was all wet from oil . After piston soak and after i run car for 15 min and driving for 20 min, When i was installing new plugs all pistons look cleaner and dry. Will see what will be final outcome after some time?
Hi, thks for sharing n I did the piston soak with B12 n it did clean all the piston’s nicely. Waiting to see the end result of how it will effect on the engine oil consumption 😊
I have the same issue but now I’ve put new plugs and they’re becoming soiled with black soot only after a couple days driving and covered in oil. Wondering if this may be a last resort?
Hi Josh, thanks for these extensive instructions that fixed your oil consumption! I have a Mini Cooper (16 years old) with GDI engine and 135.000 km (+- 85.000 miles) running. I have extensive oil consumption of 1 liters per 1000 km (1 liter per 600 miles), and I expect dirty piston rings. I dont have a car lift or any other way to raise my car, so I have to ask the garage to do the oil change. Do you think I can use your way of working to soak with b12 (which will end up in the carter, mixed with the oil) and drive afterwards to the garage for an oil change? The garage is a 20 kilometer (20 miles) drive. I expect it will not be good to drive to the garage with B12 (fuel injector cleaner) in your oil carter.
So if you don’t mind me asking why do you need to make sure the pistons are level? Also did you disconnect the fuel somehow so it didn’t pump gas into the cylinders?
The main reason for leveling the pistons is so there’s enough room in each for the fluid. If one piston is at the top the fluid will just pour into the valves and not stay in the cylinder.
How was the oil consumption after? Another thing: this definitely gets into the crankcase/oil pan past the pistons - does it do any harm to lubrication properties? Probably a smart thing to do the oil change at the same time
@@ActionHeroAntics how much oil did it consume before you did this treatment? I have 12 q5 104k miles burning 1 qt every 300 miles! thinking abut this treatment, will it do any other damages in piston? saw few videos related but still i am skeptic if i mess something up!
@@johndroc11 it was burning roughly one litre for everyone 600 kms. I’m not a mechanic and admit I was nervous doing this. Pouring the B12 into the pistons just seemed wrong lol. But I watched a couple videos and went for it. Will it damage the pistons…not sure, but my Q5 is running better than it has since I started burning oil. Think of the likely damage caused by all that oil burning…that’s way more of a risk in my opinion.
When it comes to the M54 that I tried was running valvoline 5w30 restore and protect, 1k miles and then change again 3x I know that sounds insane but works. Fuel injector cleaner from liquid moly also improved the mpg, did that 3x back to back on half a tank. Then last I switched to a group 5 oil which a pure synthetic, redline 5w40, 10w40. Liquid moly, is pretty mid tier it’s like Mobil 1 and castrol they’re just group 3 semi synthetic claiming full synthetic when they arent
@@aidenp5768 I'm currently using Shell Rimula (Rotella in the US) 10W40 in mine, have done 3k so far and oil consumption has definitely decreased. It's a fully synthetic oil made for heavy trucks and buses.
@@aidenp5768Group 3 and 3+ base oils match and best PAO base oils in 2024. This is a fact. The additive package isn’t even considered in your false beliefs. Just because a product contains group 4/5 base oils DOES NOT mean it’s automatically superior! Facts
I have the same problem on the same car in europe but i cant find here b12 berryman do you recommend any other oil fuel injector cleaner ? Can you told me what i can use for this process
@@ActionHeroAntics completed the process in my old Acura MDX with V6 engine yesterday. I tried blowing the cylinder after soaking. Blew out dirt and B12. Took me some time to fire it up. Misfire in all cylinders from the code when starting but it run normally after about 20 minutes. However, it still have 3 errors in the front panel when I start again, evern after I run 60 km highway. 3 errors are "check emission system", "check VSA system", " check trailer stability assist". Hope they can disappear later by itself. I run the car about 30 minutes with B12 in oil case. And I changed engine oil and filter before run 60km highway. Today I changed oil and filter again.
He removed most of it. That's what he was doing around 6:18. He just didn't show it. In that step, you get into the car and start it a couple times without the plugs. It spits most of the B12 out, along with some carbon chunks.
After you are done with soaking, better to remove oil pan and give it a nice cleaning. The crud accumulated there after this procedure is pretty nasty.
This is not possible. The oil burns out inside the piston due to physical damage to the piston rings that scrub the oil out of the chamber. B-12 may only help in cleaning the valves.
Audi had lots of problems with that engine, the rings weren't seating properly when new. I think there was a recall on that engine, Audi didn't make any real effort to notify owners.
They didn't really make any effort on fixing it with the B8.5 and B9 too. 😂 Oh well, the car is simple to work on, not too expensive on parts, and when you sort out these issues & develop healthy maintenance schedules it'll run for 250K. I wouldn't push it past that for ANY car unless you have no other choice.
Kudo's for the vid, however really wacky way of doing it. I understand you're following the standard recipe how that SOP is kind of dumb. It will take almost no extra time to do some measuring while doing this work to help you get a better idea of what is happening in each cylinder. Suggest the following: 0: Get 4/6/8 straws from McD or someone and mark at 1-2" from bottom 1. Put a straw in each cylinder and turn the crank until the straws are all about level 2. Measure/fill cylinder to bottom of straw mark, note amount and fill the rest with same 3. I would screw the plugs in 3-4 turns to reduce evaporation 4. After first hour, check each cylinder and note how much B12 is left If some are much lower than others, then you know which rings less clogged, and which need the most work. You are also not blindly adding and cranking every 6 hours when the fluid has possibly been gone for 3-4 hours. 5. Depending on cylinder empty rate, you may want to bump the crank every 2-3-4 hours, and/or add more fluid to the faster empying ones so that when you bump the crank there is a good amount of fluid already inside that will only help. 6. It might be better to alternate pushing and pulling the crank 90' so all of them are equally going up and down an inch or two in the bore the same amount. Start with all straws level, the pull the crank and 1 & 3 will go up and 2 & 4 will go down, next bump is opposite where you push the crank past where they are all level til 1 & 3 are down and 2 & 4 are up, rinse and repeat. At some point, you'll probably end up with most of the cylinders emptying quicker than the worst one. You can now focus mostly on that 1 problem child, and maybe try moving the crank every hour or two. I don't think anyone's actually done an experiment as to whether or not bumping the crank more often is giving more gains or not. Assuming the piston is fully submerged beneath an inch or so of B12, its possible bumping it up and down is enough agitation to really enhance absorption and infilatration into the control ring and those drain holes. It might be worthwhile to not just push or pull the crank every x hours, but push and pull it 5-6 times back and forth to really get into the rings. Since my Murano requires the intake manifold to be pulled, I'm not going to mess around but really get things in there moving a bit and do the above so I can hopefully end up with 1 or 2 problem cylinders to focus on as the worst of the worst.
Don’t drive the car hard with all that B12 in the crankcase. It’s not a lubricant, and you’ve really thinned out the oil. Dangerous for bearings. Also if you add a splash of oil to the cylinders and turn the engine over before starting it won’t be so rough because it’ll actually have compression.
Hi everyone, I’ve posted a 6,000 km / 6 month update here: th-cam.com/video/J-MliKhjIaM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uY31_AtaSIIXMcXf
Josh, yours is the best detailed video on the soak. Thanks for being organized.
I did this to a SCION XB that was burning 1.5 quarts between OCI. Did two soaks of Berrymans, let it soak 24 hrs. MAKE SURE to flush the oil that was used in soaks BEFORE firing engine!!! Oil is cheap, engines aren’t!
After I installed VALVOLINE Restore & Protect 0w-20 oil(only oil that can clean piston rings and internals). Zero oil usage in this first interval. Very impressed!
Any update on the consumption?
Thanks a lot for the video I followed your instructions step by step, in europe we dont have B12 so I used STANDARD THINNERS from EURO CAR PARTS, I have already done 5000 miles, 8000 km without adding oil. my audi q5 tfsi 2011 before this tratment I used to add 1 liter oil every 500 miles and in summer with high temperatures I added oil every 300 miles.
Cheers
Which europe ones do you recommend?
@@zarko19870 in the United Kingdom, I bought the brand Tetrosyl Standard Thinners. The shop is Euro Car Parts.
If you need more help feel free to ask
i heard mannoil 9970 is good i want to do mine too @@zarko19870
@@zarko19870 in the UK... I bought the brand Tetrosyl Standard Thinners from Euro Car Parts
Thanks for sharing this. I have 2015 Q5 with 130kkm and had this soak one week ago, and like to share some info. My Q5 started oil level warning 2-3 years ago, and we had to add 1L oil ourself when the light came (the dealer recommended). 2 month ago it got worse needed adding oil in couple of weeks (less than 300km). After doing research over a year and watching several videos, I decided do this Soak with the method in this video. I order 3 Berryman 0116 B-12, and used 2 of them, mostly it went well. 2 notes from my soak: (1) could not turn the crank clockwise; had to turn counterclockwise for level the cylinders; (2) had low engine pressure (engine shaking) when starting the car after replacing spark plugs, oil and filter; the issue disappeared after reattaching the oil cap, oil check cap, and pushing all spark plugs connectors. Will update the result after months. I believe it will help adding the B12 into gas regularly like every 6 month.
Update 2+ month and about 2600km driving, the oil level has little changed about 1/8 of max-min. The soak seemed working very well.
@@paulyang9992 wont turning counter clockwise mess the timing chain?
This method does work. I have a 2009 Audi A4 with 146,000 miles with an APR Stage II tune. I did the soak about a few months ago. I went from 100ish miles per quart to 765 Miles a quart. I would probably get 1000+ miles per quart but I do a lot of high RPM pulls with my spirited driving style. I was contemplating redoing the pistons but this is definitely a more cost effective way to take care of the oil consumption. Sure it is not a permanent fix but at my mileage I rather spend the money on something else haha.
When I did my Q5, I experienced a complication that all should be cautious of. The B-12 loosened so much carbon that it settled in the low point of the sloped cylinder and when the piston hit the head with carbon, it wouldn't pass TDC. Thus I recommend that before rotating, borescope and check. I finally got it past TDC with much worry. 8000 miles later, haven't had to top off the oil between oil change at 4500 miles.
What do you mean past TDC with "must worry"? What does must worry mean? Thanks!
@@silentyouber2816 misspelled, it wouldn't pass top dead center with much worry. Now near 9k since B-12 treatment, 121200 miles on engine, no abnormal oil consumption.
@@MM-fq9gidid you soak at tdc or bdc? And did you use a air compressor to clean the carbon once its dry?
When you crank the engine without the spark plugs. At the 24h mark. How do you know it removed all the b-12 remaining if its covered?
would like to know what happened with your gas mileage after the b-12 procedure and changing out plugs/oil/filter.
So far it’s been about the same. If that changes I’ll let you know!
Just finished my round 1 of the piston soak. Prayers up!
@@brianl764 how did it go?
Just finished up! Driving for 30 min scared the hell out of me for running rough haha but once I changed the oil it’s purring smoothly! Will update on my oil consumption after a few weeks. Appreciate the help brother!
@@brianl764 I felt the same way haha. Those misfires were freaking me out. Did you use Liqui Moly? So far my oil consumption hasn’t dropped at all.
Yup liqui moly and a little liqui moly oil saver with Mann filter. Considering using rislone engine treatment, word is you pour that 400ml every oil change and the rings will never foul up like that again but haven’t found anywhere else where that product was used on these b8s so gonna hold off for now
@@brianl764 right on. I might do this piston soak once a year.
Nice video. The only point I have any opinion on is the timing of the oil change. It’s risky to drive with the b12 in the crankcase .
I am on it right now so ..I let’s you guys know my result ! Besides that this is amazing video ! Thanks a lot ! ❤
@@AnderSm-ek6wk good luck!
Run Valvoline restore & protect for 5 to 6000miles and your smoking/oil burning will go away. That is if dirty oil control rings is your problem.
Was thinking about trying this
Amsoil high mileage has the Valvoline beat and has been out a while longer.
That is not what Valvoline claims. They state several oil changes to notice a difference. If the oil control rings are coked with hard carbon deposits however, an agressive solvent is required. There are nowhere enough detergents in any engine oil to clean hardened carbon out of oil rings or lands on a known oil consuming design.
@@9ZERO6 he won’t know until he tries.
@@xlightssx he said it as a "matter of fact". I am just stating that it won't help coked oil rings. Will it gently clean up other things? I am sure it will. Superheated hardened carbon though? Not a chance.
When I do that I also drain the oil put in T6/T5 Rotella 15W40 and put in 1 quart of Toluene and idle it for 30 minutes then dump and refill... It is basically the same cleaning wise as a BG Dynamic flush for freeing up oil control rings and drainback holes.
Will star piston soak this weekend on my Audi A4 2016 2.0T. Currently making 600 miles before i need to ad 1 quart of oil! Hope piston soak will help!
Ok i just finished piston soak and everything went smooth. New oil, oil filter and new spark plugs! Old spark plugs did not look good at all they looked like it was never replaced with 86,000 miles. I am 3 owner and just wonder if they are ever replaced? Cylinder #1 was good ,#2,#3,#4 are all cover with white residue witch indicates burning oil. Cylinder #3 was all wet from oil . After piston soak and after i run car for 15 min and driving for 20 min, When i was installing new plugs all pistons look cleaner and dry. Will see what will be final outcome after some time?
Hi, thks for sharing n I did the piston soak with B12 n it did clean all the piston’s nicely. Waiting to see the end result of how it will effect on the engine oil consumption 😊
You started the car without changing the oil? Not sure if I should change the oil first
I have the same issue but now I’ve put new plugs and they’re becoming soiled with black soot only after a couple days driving and covered in oil. Wondering if this may be a last resort?
@@raysentana991 Give this piston soak a shot! I’m blown away with how well it has worked
@@ActionHeroAntics any alternative to this b12? Can’t get it in the UK
@@raysentana991 I’m not too sure. I have seen others reference Seafoam.
Hi Josh, thanks for these extensive instructions that fixed your oil consumption! I have a Mini Cooper (16 years old) with GDI engine and 135.000 km (+- 85.000 miles) running. I have extensive oil consumption of 1 liters per 1000 km (1 liter per 600 miles), and I expect dirty piston rings. I dont have a car lift or any other way to raise my car, so I have to ask the garage to do the oil change. Do you think I can use your way of working to soak with b12 (which will end up in the carter, mixed with the oil) and drive afterwards to the garage for an oil change? The garage is a 20 kilometer (20 miles) drive. I expect it will not be good to drive to the garage with B12 (fuel injector cleaner) in your oil carter.
Hows the car going? Did you notice better oil consumption?
B12 outstanding product! I use in fuel tank and oil crankcase.
So if you don’t mind me asking why do you need to make sure the pistons are level? Also did you disconnect the fuel somehow so it didn’t pump gas into the cylinders?
The main reason for leveling the pistons is so there’s enough room in each for the fluid. If one piston is at the top the fluid will just pour into the valves and not stay in the cylinder.
hello i have a question ,your car was smoking? and did the piston soak worked for you?
Are you able to share where you were able to get the Berryman's B-12 in Alberta?
Just following up on this one in case you didn't see it.
@@dropsiclesadamI purchased on Amazon
How was the oil consumption after?
Another thing: this definitely gets into the crankcase/oil pan past the pistons - does it do any harm to lubrication properties? Probably a smart thing to do the oil change at the same time
So far I've driven about 250 kms and oil is still showing as full. Will post an update once I've driven more.
Also I can't say with 100% certainty about it doing any harm. So far there seems to be quite a bit of success by others from using this method.
@@ActionHeroAntics how much oil did it consume before you did this treatment? I have 12 q5 104k miles burning 1 qt every 300 miles! thinking abut this treatment, will it do any other damages in piston? saw few videos related but still i am skeptic if i mess something up!
@@johndroc11 it was burning roughly one litre for everyone 600 kms. I’m not a mechanic and admit I was nervous doing this. Pouring the B12 into the pistons just seemed wrong lol. But I watched a couple videos and went for it. Will it damage the pistons…not sure, but my Q5 is running better than it has since I started burning oil. Think of the likely damage caused by all that oil burning…that’s way more of a risk in my opinion.
Curious has it consumed any since?
I reckon this would also cure the oil burning issue on BMW M54 engines as well.
Perhaps, i might try this, will see.
Yeah I will also try this, will clean up carbon on the low tension piston rings so they seal better and we won't lose oil
When it comes to the M54 that I tried was running valvoline 5w30 restore and protect, 1k miles and then change again 3x I know that sounds insane but works. Fuel injector cleaner from liquid moly also improved the mpg, did that 3x back to back on half a tank. Then last I switched to a group 5 oil which a pure synthetic, redline 5w40, 10w40. Liquid moly, is pretty mid tier it’s like Mobil 1 and castrol they’re just group 3 semi synthetic claiming full synthetic when they arent
@@aidenp5768 I'm currently using Shell Rimula (Rotella in the US) 10W40 in mine, have done 3k so far and oil consumption has definitely decreased. It's a fully synthetic oil made for heavy trucks and buses.
@@aidenp5768Group 3 and 3+ base oils match and best PAO base oils in 2024. This is a fact. The additive package isn’t even considered in your false beliefs. Just because a product contains group 4/5 base oils DOES NOT mean it’s automatically superior! Facts
R u in dubai? Since i saw u using a mai dubai bottle if so can u do this process for my car if u have a garage?
I have the same problem on the same car in europe but i cant find here b12 berryman do you recommend any other oil fuel injector cleaner ? Can you told me what i can use for this process
@@Irem-tg6rb I believe some people have used Seafoam, but I can’t say for certain.
The main ingredient in Berryman’s is toluene.
When you put the old spark plugs back in and restarted the car did you change oil first or run and drive it with the berrymans in
@@RayHadler I drove the Q5 with the Barrymans in for about 20-30 mins, then changed the oil and put in new spark plugs.
you may want to check out BG dynamic engine clean kit?
Can I do this in a Kia optima? And I have to change the spark plugs?
i did it for our sorento 2.4L and it seems to be working so far!
@@cgsouthernhow is going?? Fixed? Any improvement??
Man I looked up just the flush and the car I needed was first☠️ it really is a problem lol
do this pistons have to be at the same level?
Yes if you want to pour 100 ml of b12 in the cylinder
Thank you for making the video. I will try that tomorrow.
@@eric6218 Good luck! Report back
@@ActionHeroAntics completed the process in my old Acura MDX with V6 engine yesterday. I tried blowing the cylinder after soaking. Blew out dirt and B12. Took me some time to fire it up. Misfire in all cylinders from the code when starting but it run normally after about 20 minutes. However, it still have 3 errors in the front panel when I start again, evern after I run 60 km highway. 3 errors are "check emission system", "check VSA system", " check trailer stability assist". Hope they can disappear later by itself. I run the car about 30 minutes with B12 in oil case. And I changed engine oil and filter before run 60km highway. Today I changed oil and filter again.
@@eric6218 hopefully it resolves itself. I haven’t done this soak to any other vehicles, so cant say for sure.
@@ActionHeroAntics the errors disappeared yesterday by itself.
@@eric6218 nice!
How did you go mate is it still burning oil
That’s a salutation for oil burning
So you never removed the b-12 at all?
He removed most of it. That's what he was doing around 6:18. He just didn't show it. In that step, you get into the car and start it a couple times without the plugs. It spits most of the B12 out, along with some carbon chunks.
Ok bet thank you @@mrhyde7019
@@mrhyde7019I tried this but now my car isn't starting ugh
@@Alex-rb5fs Did you do it exactly as he did? My car is nearing the 24-hour mark. I'll post here if I manage to start it. 2018 Elantra GT Base 2.0L
@@mrhyde7019 yep. I did the same. Going to try again today. Wish me luck!
After you are done with soaking, better to remove oil pan and give it a nice cleaning.
The crud accumulated there after this procedure is pretty nasty.
Did you jack the car up for manually cranking it?
Why would one need to jack the car up?
B12 guarantee your engine, never gonna burn oil again 1000% proof
I hope so 🤞
1000% = 10 times out of 1.
So you start a race with 1 car and finish the race with 10 cars?
Are you a Trump voter? 🤣
This is not possible. The oil burns out inside the piston due to physical damage to the piston rings that scrub the oil out of the chamber. B-12 may only help in cleaning the valves.
Audi had lots of problems with that engine, the rings weren't seating properly when new. I think there was a recall on that engine, Audi didn't make any real effort to notify owners.
They didn't really make any effort on fixing it with the B8.5 and B9 too. 😂
Oh well, the car is simple to work on, not too expensive on parts, and when you sort out these issues & develop healthy maintenance schedules it'll run for 250K. I wouldn't push it past that for ANY car unless you have no other choice.
Barrymans B12 is basically acetone.
Kudo's for the vid, however really wacky way of doing it. I understand you're following the standard recipe how that SOP is kind of dumb.
It will take almost no extra time to do some measuring while doing this work to help you get a better idea of what is happening in each cylinder.
Suggest the following:
0: Get 4/6/8 straws from McD or someone and mark at 1-2" from bottom
1. Put a straw in each cylinder and turn the crank until the straws are all about level
2. Measure/fill cylinder to bottom of straw mark, note amount and fill the rest with same
3. I would screw the plugs in 3-4 turns to reduce evaporation
4. After first hour, check each cylinder and note how much B12 is left
If some are much lower than others, then you know which rings less clogged,
and which need the most work.
You are also not blindly adding and cranking every 6 hours when the fluid has possibly been gone for 3-4 hours.
5. Depending on cylinder empty rate, you may want to bump the crank every 2-3-4 hours, and/or add more fluid to the faster empying ones so that when you bump the crank there is a good amount of fluid already inside that will only help.
6. It might be better to alternate pushing and pulling the crank 90' so all of them are equally going up and down an inch or two in the bore the same amount.
Start with all straws level, the pull the crank and 1 & 3 will go up and 2 & 4 will go down, next bump is opposite where you push the crank past where they are all level til 1 & 3 are down and 2 & 4 are up, rinse and repeat.
At some point, you'll probably end up with most of the cylinders emptying quicker than the worst one.
You can now focus mostly on that 1 problem child, and maybe try moving the crank every hour or two.
I don't think anyone's actually done an experiment as to whether or not bumping the crank more often is giving more gains or not. Assuming the piston is fully submerged beneath an inch or so of B12, its possible bumping it up and down is enough agitation to really enhance absorption and infilatration into the control ring and those drain holes.
It might be worthwhile to not just push or pull the crank every x hours, but push and pull it 5-6 times back and forth to really get into the rings.
Since my Murano requires the intake manifold to be pulled, I'm not going to mess around but really get things in there moving a bit and do the above so I can hopefully end up with 1 or 2 problem cylinders to focus on as the worst of the worst.
Jesus you are annoying. Nobody cares Mr I like to hear myself talk. You over complicate a simple procedure. Go take your ADHD meds…..
Don’t drive the car hard with all that B12 in the crankcase. It’s not a lubricant, and you’ve really thinned out the oil. Dangerous for bearings.
Also if you add a splash of oil to the cylinders and turn the engine over before starting it won’t be so rough because it’ll actually have compression.
Too bad nobody carries b12 in Canada.
@@chriss.600 Amazon does
change ya oil more often
From my prospective I thought to myself, maybe you put too much of that chemical 🤔