Createx 4053 high gloss clearcoat test, review, and spray out! For modelers and so much more!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มี.ค. 2022
- Let’s spray out the new 4053 high gloss uvls clearcoat by createx! Is it really glossy enough? What kind of performance can you expect from a spraygun as well as an airbrush!
And we will go over how to lay out a nice clearcoat finish with this product!
This is a fantastic product for scale modelers, cosplay crafts, art projects, signs and soo much more!
The Airspace is dedicated to all things atomized! Primarily teaching airbrushing tips tricks, reviews and much much more to come!
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Thanks!
My brother just showed me this, great stuff. Love the samples.
Thanks!
Excellent video....2K is your left bottom then right.... I'm very impressed with this gonna be going broke between the 4053 and new wicked opaques and the flairs
Thanks Adam! Ill let you know how you scored :)
@@TheAIRspace Have the scorecard yet?
@@adamakins9748 Left top and right! 2 out of 3! That reminds me I need to make a PINNED post! :)
@@adamakins9748 wait no.. the 2k the 2k is in my right hand in the beggining then on the bottom then on my left hand.. the UVLS is LEFT TOP and RIGHT> Sorry 1 out of 3 in that case.. you can actually see the lettering inside the shape in the first image which the second lemon lime shape didnt get labeled. :)
This is all kinds of good info.
This is an amazing product! Im just literally tickled with the off the airbrush and spraygun finish i am getting with this. See they sent me some free... like a crack dealer knowing ill be back for more :)
Thanks for a great vid.. I've been refreshing spraygunners page for this stuff since I first heard about it. Question - we all know it's not "automotive grade" but do you think it's durable enough for bicycle frames? I just can't do 2k in my environment, but need something and spray can 1k makes me cry over my nicely sprayed created colors! Not to mention they are too soft!
I would be hesitant to use on something that sees significant abuse like feet hitting them.. drops etc. Its durable but not as mar resistant as a 2k. im soon to make a video on the car rep 2k clearcoat. something ive been putting off for far too long.. Hopefully ill get it out this week :)
I love the Createx wicked paints when I see them on a model but I have never been able to get it to airbrush right for whatever reason. I just don’t get it.
Finally tried this. Works well. 100pct not like 2k. Doesn't cover as well nor stay with the wetlook gel the way a 2k does at all. A good alternative to spray can clear and an improvement over 4050. Worth trying but this definitely can't replace a 2k system perfect surfaces like speedshapes are already in the mix. Great second watch of video btw :)
No it will not replace a 2k system. However if you are losing the "wet" look. I found on larger items the best results are lay a couple of coats and let it set a day then flowcoat it the next day. But on small models and items it was not necessary at all.
What i've found with some time with it.
One it CAN rewet previous layers of paint if laid thick or if the previous layers have not fully cured.
2 if getting dry spray add some retarder and lower pressure.
3 as mentioned lay a couple coats and sand if you got any peel, and lay a third coat after letting the previous layers cure completely.
And absolutely it is not as thick as 2k. My first test i found it marginally better than 4050. after a few adjustments It was much more impressive
Thanks!
@@TheAIRspace Interesting, I may try that flowcoat method. I appreciate the feedback something new to try. :)
I can't tell the difference the 2. I use a ton of the 4050 just as a primer/adhesion promoter on just about everything I paint which is mostly hard surfaces (rifle stocks, skate boards , clear lexan panels ,fishing lures etc. ) a wide array of substrates and I really don't like spraying 2 K clears because of the dangers they present. Although you have to put a 2k clear on the fishing lures . I agree with you about not wanting to have to sand and buff now I can use this new product . Thanks for the test run brother. As always your knowledge cam only be compared to a super computer. Lol. Thanks Bill ,really
You could dip your lures instead of spray a lot of folks do. And yeah createx does not recommend this as a long term submerged product.. on a sign outside sure :) It does look very good, very impressive product.
I'm not so sure about a super computer, but I am wired a bit different than most. And I have to know the how of how and why of things. I'm a natural tinkerer.. i broke a lot of stuff as a kid, fixed a lot of things too.. then became an adult and did the same thing :/ I'm really thinking for skate decks that are display boards this will be a good enough product. It honestly is hard for ME to tell the difference. Now if I sprayed a really high quality 2k euro clear, cut and polished and sprayed this and cut and polished it... i do believe id be able to see a depth difference side by side. But its really getting close now.
On a side note. I am very blessed Createx sent me these even before release. I had the final UVLS high gloss in my hands Saturday. Which means I had plenty of time to play with them. Ironically I intended to do some panel work on this video, but my dessicant filter decided it was a good time to let water get through ;/ Wanting to get a video done I decided hey lets do an airbrush version. It did take several small samples to figure out how best to spray it with an airbrush. I thought It might benefit from a retarder to flow out but it wasn't necessary at all.
Thanks Keith!
I feel the same. Love the finish but 2k Isos are dangerous AF. Heavy user of 4050 but it's definitely a step below 2k and even rattle can. So this 4053 has me interested.
@@TheAIRspace I'm gonna check into the dipping. It's not like I've got orders upon orders of lures but I hear what your saying.
Whats your guess? Lets hear it!
BTW you can buy this NOW
HERE!
spraygunner.com/airbrush-paint/createx-colors-paint-center/additives-and-reducers/adhesion-promoter/createx-4053-high-gloss-uvls-clear/?aff=15
"aff link"
Thank you for this. Createx videos for whatever reason are really pixelated so I can't see much detail.
I think I may purchase a bottle to try it out now that I see this comparison.
Are all the samples 3 layers straight from gun or did you buff these and add the other 3 ?
3 layers straight from the airbrush on the spoons. On the speed shape I did 3 coats, waited a full day and did one more coat. I originally had intended to sand and buff it. And decided there was no need. It also was applied a little thicker but through a fan pattern airbrush.
@@TheAIRspace thats very impressive them. Seems way shinier than the 4050.
@@TheAIRspace Would love to see how the 4053 looks over the new wicked color shifting or their pearlescents.
@@mml3140 That green is one of their colorshifts :) unfortunately i cannot respond with pics.. but up on my instagram i have that colorshift in other lighting.
@@TheAIRspace Awesome man. I will check that out. Keep up the cool content 😎
I have a quick question for ya. I need to mix the color for a horse that's called a Bloodred Bay. I'm having a hard time coming up with that deep red sheen color. Any suggestions?
I did one recently really the trick is finding your lightest highlight shade.
How I would approach it is situational.
On the last one I created all my texture with a dark brown over a slightly pink tone. And then used a transparent to shift the tones where I needed.
There is no single bullet of a color because the shadow and highlight colors are going to swing wildly
@@TheAIRspace thank you I'll try that. 🙂👍
What needle size did you use in your airbrush thanks
The Omni is a .5 I believe. However the taper is steeper and flows a lot more than say an iwata .5.
I have no idea which is which but I'm going to get some of that clear for my decorative panels I think 👍 Now if only someone could come up with a water based single pack clear good for automotive that would surely be the holy grail for the home painter?
I am sure there's a lot of chemists working on trying.
When scenix came out, with the crosslinker. And with my rudimentary understanding of how cross link formulas work, I thought people would be very much into it. However according to Dennis, and Artem i'm one of the few who really liked using the crosslinker.
But make no mistake thats less voc's and less toxic than 2k clear. Its still not nearly as safe as these.
Having had some experience with wood finishes i had already had some experience with crosslinked waterbased finishes.. which is what most prefinished wood flooring has on it. But you wont find those on the big box shelves readily available for home owners for a good reason ;)
From a clarity level this is as good as any of the high end waterbased lacquers i've seen.
@The AIR space yeah I use to use a lot of the scenix ssr clear with the Cross linker. I would still use it but it's hard to find when you are not looking for a gallon and not wanting to have 3 or 4 orders out with different materials on each . I do 95% of my paint and clears orders from spraygunner but they are always out of the ssr clear scenix.
@@therealworldaccordingtokei8201 I grabbed up some of the satin when it was discounted. My kitchen counters and the big long shelf in my studio you see behind me in videos are brushed on ssr. And they have both seen significant abuse. The studio counters are just cheap glued wood shelving boards with a dark stain.. good enough for the studio.. they present well but nothing expensive enough id care if they got destroyed. Which was the plan.. make the studio presentable enough for customers... while not being too nice id care when i eventually mess it up.
Are you supposed to dry sand or wet sand after? Also what grit do you recommend?
1500 -3000 grit if you need to sand it, dry. Then buff.
Instead of the 4050. Can you use isopropyl alcohol? What are the problems you might encounter? Products are limited where I am..
I think you mean the 4011 reducer?
If you can get the 4053 the 4011 should be not much trouble. Could you get away with a different reducer perhaps, but a specialty product like this would be a lot of experimenting and possible issues.
Alchohol would definitely not be on my recomendations.
i came from yhe modeling side i stoped 16 years ago and got into guitars because someone wanted close to 2 hundred dollers to swap pickups in my jackson with emghz qiuckplug so i did it myself in 309 min. and off that the model comunity they are hardcore when it comes to finishi g and stuff they will buff them out. i actually seen a guy go through all the steps on a lage scale model car kit 1/12/or 1/18 . ive seen them do it to 1.24 to and its crazy. they leave some things outthatu casnt do to plastic but ive seen them mod dremels and all sorts to detail a model. lol so this will help them guys ouit alot i us3 U-pol clear now i like it it has no run capabilatys with i dont mix reducer with and the only time it ran or it sagged is when i screwd up and hit it rweal heavy an a guitar and did not wait for the fjash time and hung it up in my shed it sagged not bad though.
oh yeah some of those modelers will go to serious extremes. But this is a friendly product that should help a lot of people out. This is suitable as a guitar finish and buffed you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between this and the old nitro lacquer.
Do you think this'll spray fine out of a 0.35mm nozzle, or should I get a 0.5mm one?
You can reduce it and use a .35. the question would be how large of an area on if that will work out well or not. Its not recomended but it can work on small things
@@TheAIRspace thanks for the reply! I'm planning on coating very small model parts with this (for tabletop game miniatures, Gundam models, etc.). Usually the profile for these is less than a square inch and at most maybe 2 to 2.5 square inches.
The one on the right... How are you liking the gloss black, i just got a bottle but havent sprayed it yet and it looks grey in the bottle?
The bottle is milky. If you open it up and it’s grey shake it up really good. It should be like looking in a black pool
It’s very nice. Looks like you sprayed a single stage black urethane. The only thing I’ve not used yet is the gloss white.
ohh and ill give the answer after some weekend viewers get in here!
There is something wrong with the bottle i got then, i have shaken and stirred and made sure there was no clumps in it, and its still sprays like its a transparent grey. I emailed spraygunner on getting it replaced. The gloss white i got at the same time sprayed beautifully BTW.
It does spray the first coat transparently, and takes a couple of coats to get opaque coverage. And I suppose i should do a video JUST on the gloss black maybe a quick one. (i don't think createx has had time to even do a dedicated video to the 4053 OR the new gloss products yet)
However give them the batch code, several of us had product early release that was not ready for sale. I suspect you got a pre release sample on accident. In comparison looking at the paint the not ready for sale paint was blue grey in the bottle, and the released product is literally a dark black.
Spraygunner will get you taken care of I am positive!
The gloss white if it sprays anything like the gloss black should be very smooth and beautiful!
I don't like their gloss black. It has weird properties. The autoborne sealer black is much more consistent.
How do you get it to be glossy like that? When I spray it looks like it’s been hand held by someone with grease on there fingers and doesn’t look clear
im not sure what your describing. However i showed examples of exactly how I spray it. If you are spraying too thick it will run and be glossy when dry but will take a long time, too thin and too high pressure it will dry spray and be rough.
WHat are you spraying it over and what size airbrush ?
what was the ratio of reducer to clear coat
im usually around 5% reducer never more than 10%
While a lot of people will reduce it way heavier they don't realize they lose film thickness which is important.
More reducer is both thinner laying coats, and when the reducer evaporates a thinner cover coat. And enough will cause significant loss in gloss.
At the end of the day you need to experiment how much reducer it takes to flow through your airbrush. The larger the nozzle the less reducer you need. With clear you want it to be as thick as possible while leveling and flowing well.
THE ANSWER
UVLS is
Left hand in first image
Top in second
my right hand in the third!
I think it is the green speed shape.
wow you got that fast :) ;0
@@TheAIRspace couldn't resist being a bit of a smart alek.
@@darrellwilliams1870 thats how i roll too :)
A couple years ago maybe longer when I got back into airbrushing
Had to was working and building guitars from sourced part and TCL globle had a sale on autoair by createx now 8ts all under the wicked colors label. But the whole cure/dry with blow dryer or what not w fit old fast and ass of now Iam looking for a paint like base coat enamel or acrylic lacquer that does not have a catalyst or have to dry it by blow-dryer or heat gun I ruined alot of graphics in the early days of getting back into the art. But having tape pul.it off the surface and a bunch of other stuff I've Evan used adhesion promoter and had issues so no longer using that stuff. And HOK is to darn expensive along with everything else.
You actually shouldnt use a heat gun on water based paints unless its for textiles.
The newer createx paints are very easy to use. And very durable when applied to a properly cleaned and prepped surface.
@@TheAIRspace ive prep asi normally do . iam in Az and ive had issue in the colder night ime temp. ive evan contacted them about some of the issues like my clear coat lifting and it was like a week down the line sometimes i cant shoot everything in a hour. recoat windows i hate them lol
I think the one in your right hand is 4050
answer is the pinned comment :)
Look the same unless they use an epoxy in it