Using Candy2o Effectively
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- Incorporating candies into your airbrush artwork can produce some dramatic effects. This video discusses some of the basics behind using candies effectively.
Createx Technical Data Sheets creatextech.com/
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Createx 4011 Reducer amzn.to/30wRBuo
Wicked Detail Cerulean amzn.to/3kE44Df
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Well done video in explaining all the differences in how you go about using the candies. I really appreciate you taking the time to give us your knowledge and all the different tips. Thank you.
Thanks Josh! I appreciate the kind words and support my friend!
Such a great reference video! Thanks for posting this - it's extremely helpful to see the differences.
I'm glad you found it helpful and I appreciate the kind words! Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Thanks Trevor..as always appreciate your time and videos
Thanks Richard!
Great lesson! Lots of good info and an exceptional demonstration.
Thank you my friend!
Thank you Trevor!! Appreciate all the lessons.
Hi Bill! Thank you for the kind words and support my friend!
Wow! What an informative and explicit explanation of candy usage. Answered so many of my questions. Truly appreciate the time and effort you put into this video
Thank you, John! I appreciate the kind words very much!
All I can say is Dude !! Thanks it made so much sense I saw the hulk one with straight candy and remembered you said you did that to show there is a better way. Glad you followed up Man !! Thanks
I appreciate the kind words my friend!
Good job. Those pearl colors r beautiful!
Hey Pete! Thank you my friend!
Very informative. I appreciate your willingness to spread knowledge to better us artists out there! Thank you
Thank you!
Love the rip aways, great way to show your point.
Hey Ron! I appreciate the support my friend! By the way, I did see your email. I just haven't had time to reply yet, but I will get back to you!
This was by far the best vid i have ever watched!!!! Very good job doing this vid, thank you for the great information
Thank you!
Awesome demonstration. Very professional. Thank you sir.
Thank you!
Thankis Trevor, that was the most awesome and informitive video. I have been inlighten so much.
I appreciate the kind words William!
cheer for this video trevor loads of good useful info
Thank you my friend!
This helped me plan projects better utilizing candy
Awesome! I'm glad the information helped you out my friend!
What a great explanation. It all came together for me Thanks
Awesome! Thank you John!
This was a great explanation and demonstration thank you
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I have used a few candies on my model cars so I will now tryout this brand and use your tips. Thanks.
Thank you!
Thank you for the info, super helpful 😊
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Thank you for activating the subtitles is Spanish, now I can appreciate your explanations much better, a greeting and thank you very much for everything.
Hey Pedro! Good deal! I wasn't completely sure if I did it correctly or not. Again, I'll work on translating all of my other videos as time permits. I appreciate the kind words!
Great videos - Thank you!
Hey Barry! Thank you my friend!
Thanks for this video.
Thank you!
Well informed video..thanks
Thank you!
Great info, I am actually going to do my 1st candy rc body
Awesome! Thanks for the kind words my friend!
Thanks Trevor. I now have some ideas on when to use and not use CandyO2. I’ll definitely take these tips onboard and think about which paint to use more carefully I’ve tended to use transparents for dropping in shadows but it makes a lot of sense to use CandyO2 so I can slowly build the right depth and not end up killing it outright with too much saturation using a transparent
Hey Jeff! I'm glad all of that made sense and gave you some ideas on other ways you can use candies in your artwork!
Great info 👍
Thank you!
Well done video 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you my friend!
Another great video...I also mix on the fly with the candy... Typically over reduced. it is a great product however I haven't gotten any UVLS yet . still working with a bunch of the 4030 I have,,,,,,I will be getting some along with other goodies I need
Hey Adam! As I said, either product works, but I do prefer UVLS over 4030 with candy2o.
Very informative.
Thank you!
Yes Sir That Help Out A Lot
Awesome! Thank you!
Great videos man. Just shared
Thank you my friend!
Gracias por tu aportación, hoy realice mi primer trabajo de pintura con Createx Color Perlado y para darle un toque más interesante o intenso del color aplique varias capas de Candy en tres tonos y bueno ya mañana con la luz de dia vere como quedo el trabajo. Saludos
¡Impresionante! ¡Espero que haya resultado tan bueno como esperabas!
gracias ótimo video ajudou tirei minhas duvidas amigo
Obrigado! Estou feliz que você achou isso útil!
Bobby hill's dad busting out some fresh fades
Hahaha! Thanks!
Excellent demo and great explanationZ on the various uses. I love Candy2o and UVLS! Anyway a guy could get the Createx vector file logo from ya?
Hey Jake! Thanks for the kind words my friend. As with pretty much everything I do related to vinyl, I had to manually draw out the Createx logo in Corel Draw. I don't normally give those files away because I have time invested creating it. Having said that, I can't legally sell copies of a trademarked logo that doesn't belong to me either. So, shoot me an email and I'll give you the file.
I have mixed the candy2o into the flat UVLS clear. I creates a nice effect paint. I assume the satin works too.
I would assume all of the clears will work as a candy carrier as well. Createx does recommend using the gloss because it has the best adhesion properties. I'm not willing to risk using the matte or satin finish on a client's paint job for obvious reasons. I haven't had the time to test the durability and longevity of the matte or satin clears mixed with candy2o yet. I'm glad there are others like yourself testing them out. Ultimately, if the job requires a matte or satin finish that will be addressed with the final catalyzed clear coat in most cases on my end anyway.
Wow beautiful! Do u prefer metallic or pearl for a base coat under the candies? I did see your video explaining the difference between the two, I was just curious about your personal preference. Love the way u explain everything by the way! You always do a phenomenal job and I really appreciate that!!
I appreciate the kind words! I generally prefer a metallic base under candy. Metallic particles are normally larger and more brilliant compared to a pearl.
I think you helped me understand the part I was missing! The uvls clear! I tried painting them directly to an automotive surface and they melted off in the morning dew. I lost all of my color. Maybe the clear would make it more permanent?? I really hope so, because the candy colors look great.
Yes, candies are a concentrate. They require a "carrier", in the case of candy2o that is UVLS Clear or 4030 Balancing Clear. Adding UVLS Clear will make them more permanent on an automotive surface; however, you still need to apply a catalyzed urethane clear for the ultimate in longevity and durability.
Great video Trevor! Being new to airbrushing I refer to your channel constantly for quality information such as this. Can you tell me what you painted this demo on and how much of a role does surface play into getting your work to pop? If you did this entire video on a wall in your house as opposed to the hood of a car would the work itself on the wall be less brilliant only because the metal is much more reflective? Or if it was all done on yupo paper as compared to canvas? I look forward to your reply and keep up the great work!
Hey Justin! I appreciate the kind words and support my friend!
I painted this demo on a cheap gesso artist board. The surface does play a role as far as making your work pop is concerned; however, it doesn't necessarily require a reflective surface. The exception to that would be if you were painting candies over bare metal or ground metal. Aside from that, it has more to do with how smooth the surface is and whether the surface is absorbent or nonabsorbent. For example, you mentioned painting something on a wall in a house. Most interior walls are coated with some type of texture. In my experience, interior walls in homes tend to absorb paint as well. Painting over the texture by itself makes it more difficult to really make your work pop because light will reflect from all the raised areas on the texture. That can create false highlights and shadows when your work is viewed. If the wall also absorbs paint, that makes it even more difficult because you'll likely be left with muted areas where paint was absorbed more in some areas than it was in others. The same challenges are present when working on canvas that hasn't been prepped to a very smooth surface. Don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting you cannot make your work pop when painting a surface like either of those. It just makes it more difficult depending on what you're trying to achieve. Working on a smooth, nonabsorbent surface like a car hood or synthetic paper just makes things easier. Does that make sense?
@@wickedartstudio first off let me thank you for taking the time to give me such an in depth answer to my question and yes this makes perfect sense. I am experiencing some of these very things painting on a wall but I'm good with it because everything is trial and error right now as I am a true newbie. Bottom line is I am enjoying the experience. Thanks again Trevor for getting back to me. Looking forward to your next video and many more after that. Take Care!
@@acandnine12 I'm glad to help when I can. That is the basis behind this channel. I can reach far more people on this platform than I ever could teaching live classes in a studio environment. I am an artist first, but teacher/instructor comes in at a very close second. All of us were once in the same position you find yourself in now, a newbie trying to figure things out. I'm glad to know you're enjoying the experience!
Hi Trev.
Nice vid as usual. I always read a lot of the comments before I comment as they cover a lot of the questions I would ask.
A couple of things? Are you going to show the Folds of Honour tank & complete images of the job?, Color theory. Can you explain how to use a color wheel. I have one exactly the same as yours, but I don't really know how to use it?
You said that you had to draw the createx logo. I found a great little program called vector magic. Basically you can inport any Logo or graphic and it will convert it to a vector. Click ,cut and it will send it straight to your plotter. I use it for all my motorcycle graphics.
Hope it helps my friend.
Guy
Hey Guy! Yes, I will show the completed Folds of Honor tank and fender in a future video. Activity on my channel took a dive last month and I believe it had to do with those particular videos. I needed to break up the monotony a bit.
I have plans to create some specific videos on color theory. I'm not exactly sure when those will be produced yet, but they are on the list. I have to admit I've never thought about explaining how to use a color wheel in a color theory video. I guess that's something I've just taken for granted without thinking there are likely other people out there that don't understand how to apply that information. That's a great suggestion and one that has been added to the list!
The software I use (Corel Draw) has a jpeg to vector conversion built into it; however, it's not that great most of the time. It does a fairly good job if I have a very high resolution, crystal clear image to work from. Even with a very good image to start with, I still find I spend a lot of time manually repairing all of the little sections the software doesn't get right. Most of the time it's actually faster for me to just manually draw out what I need compared to repairing all the sections the software didn't get right. That portion of the software in the newest version of Corel Draw is supposed to be a lot better, but I'm not willing to upgrade yet. That's a big expense. I haven't been a full time shop for many years now. So, I tend to hang onto older versions for as long a I can. I'll definitely check out the vector magic though. I appreciate the tip my friend!
I like doing a white on black underpainting and candies over that. I just picked up some candy2.0, and haven't tried them yet. I'm making the jump from solvent based paints like House Of Kolor and Sem.
I switched from solvents a long time ago and struggled with the water-based paint for a long time because I expected the water-based paint to spray the same, react the same, lay down the same, etc. as the solvents I'd been using for fifteen years before that. I was resistant to change the way I worked and that led to a lot of frustration. The technology has improved a lot in every way since I made the switch. They are not as temperamental as they once were, but they are still a different animal compared to solvent-based paint. So, my advice would be don't fall into the same trap I did, and you'll probably be happy with the performance on the water-based side.
@@wickedartstudio Thanks for the reply.I'm looking to do some videos. I have like a 5 part video on my channel showing a piece I did years ago. The camera was junk, and the editing was real bad. I want to put more into production this time around..
@@Dude_Slick I checked out your Orc airbrush videos. I agree, the picture could've been a lot better. I'm far from a professional at this video thing, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I have found I get a far better response from videos that I attempt (attempt being the key word here) to teach the viewer how to do what I'm doing as opposed to just letting them watch what I'm doing. If that's something you're interested in doing, I would encourage you to get back into it. You've obviously got talent and skill based on what I just watched! Creating these videos isn't easy as you already know. I wasn't comfortable being on camera initially. The editing thing is an art of its own. When I watch some of my earlier content, I can't help but think about how bad it actually is, lol. At the end of the day, creating content is just like airbrushing, you get better with time and experience (and sometimes better equipment). We also need a larger airbrush community on TH-cam in my opinion. If I can help you out in any way, let me know and I'll do what I can. Who knows, we may end up collaborating at some point!
Great video. I'm interested in trying the createx candy paint. Can you tell me if this range of paints is color fast. I would hate to have the paint fade after a year in the sun. Thanks
I have been using the Createx paint system exclusively for about twenty years now. To date, I've not experienced any color fade over time on any of my work using regular colors. I've not had anything come back due to fading either.
There are exceptions though. Fluorescent colors will absolutely fade over time (and relatively quickly if exposed to UV on a daily basis). It's always a good idea to spray a similar color and/or sealer under a fluorescent rather than a white for that reason. The colored base will make the fade less noticeable. I generally only use fluorescent colors in race applications because the life of the vehicle and/or helmet is normally far less comparatively.
Candies are also known to fade because they are dye based as opposed to pigment based. I will use the same strategy with a colored base under a candy when practical, but that's not normally an option depending on what the artist is trying to achieve. It's worth mentioning I haven't seen significant fading with the Createx candy2o system and I use candies a lot in my work. I just completed a job that required all of the artwork to be rendered with only candy2o colors. So, I have no hesitation when it comes to using Createx candies.
Finally, a lot of fade prevention comes down to the final clear coat you decide to use if you're doing custom automotive type work. Don't cheap out on the clear coat. Pick a quality brand that contains UV inhibitors and you'll have no issues based on my own experience.
Thank you for the kind words and taking the time to leave a comment! I hope that helps!
Love the vid, quick question instead of a white base I use a grey or silver base would everything just come out a little darker? Thank you.
My impression is that candy paints more or less just tint/wash the color underneath. So classic candy paint jobs, which have a metallic feel, were done over a very reflective/ shiny metallic (chrome, silver, gold, etc) base. So doing candy dye over reflective silver will get you a metallic candy, gold warms it up, etc.
It is worth noting that if you are using a metallic paint, use a glossy undercoat like a glossy black. The glossier the undercoat, the more reflective the silver, the better the metallic candy effect.
Correct, for the most part. A silver base won't affect the color as much as a grey base will. How dramatic the change is will depend on the color of the candy you choose to use. For example: a dark candy, like a violet, won't change as noticeably as a yellow will. Does that make sense?
Just watched the Createx video they recommend 1 to 1 for airbrush and 6 to 1 for spray gun
Yes, but it really comes down to the end user and what you're trying to achieve. I normally prefer 5:1 with a spray gun for slightly faster coverage. I use anything from 1:1 to 5:1 with an airbrush.
@@wickedartstudio you do a great job and I spoke too soon, I did not watch both candy videos. I know now
It's all good and just part of learning. There are few absolute right or wrong things one can do within the Createx paint system. It is a good idea to learn those rules before attempting to bend or break them though. I appreciate the kind words!
so is it possible/usefull to use candies when painting lexan bodies for rc cars as they are being painted from the inside?
Absolutely. You just have to plan it out a little more carefully because you are painting in reverse.
is it possible to use candy paint on fabric and get the same effect, if so what would be the base
That's a good question! I have never used candies on fabric. So, I can't give you a first hand experience answer, but I can give you my opinion based on years of experience. I see no reason why it wouldn't be possible to use candies on fabric. I would assume they would need to be heat set (in the case of t-shirts) along with all of the other paint on the garment. I'm not sure how durable they would be after being heat set though. Personally, my gut tells me this would be a waste of candy. It would be very similar to what I talked about in the video when comparing candy2o sprayed over a plain white base to the Wicked Detail Colors sprayed over the same base. You can use metallic and/or pearl flakes on fabrics as a base for better effects under candies. I've used House of Kolor Ice Pearl (a dry pearl) mixed with a Createx Transparent Base on t-shirts in the past with good results. The pearl flakes do tend to wash away relatively easy compared to the rest of the paint though. The downside to working with fabrics is your working on a dull, nonreflective surface to begin with and most fabrics will absorb paint. Based on that, I don't think you'll be able to achieve the same dramatic effects on fabric that you can achieve on other surfaces with candies. I think you'd be better off sticking with fluorescents which have worked flawlessly in that industry for a long time. Having said that, I could be completely wrong too. It's definitely worth experimenting with.
Thanks for responding...I am new to airbrushing and work at Home Depot. I have always used Alcohol markers to do names on the orange aprons and wondered what paint would really pop on those aprons?
@@seanwvaughan I'm glad to help when I can. I would recommend sticking with Wicked Colors for that type of work. The Wicked Fluorescents really pop on fabrics, but you want a white base over the orange fabric to really make the colors stand out.
@@wickedartstudio thank you
I use the 4030 because I'm mostly painting plastic. How does the UVLS clear compare on plastic? Also I've had problems with spraying bleed checker from an airbrush. Does the UVLS clear work as a bleed checker?
UVLS has very good adhesion properties on plastic as well. Createx recommends using Gloss UVLS for problem substrates when it comes to possible adhesion issues. They say the gloss has better adhesion compared to the matte or satin. I'm not certain why that is. Just fyi.
As far as using UVLS as a bleed checker goes, no. UVLS will not prevent candy from leaching, or bleeding into subsequent layers of paint, especially if you are using UVLS as a carrier for your candy. The idea behind preventing, or stopping candy from bleeding has to do with using dissimilar materials. I've actually used a solvent-based white paint (which is a dissimilar material because it's a completely different system) over candy2o in the past to prevent bleed. If you're using UVLS as a candy carrier and you apply a coat or two of UVLS over the candy in order to prevent bleeding, you're using a similar material. The UVLS can, and likely will, reactivate the dye in the candy and that's what ultimately causes the color to bleed into subsequent layers. That's why Createx developed 4040 Bleed Checker.
4040 is pretty thick and harder to spray through an airbrush without bumping up your air pressure or reducing it; however, reducing 4040 creates the same problem. Adding the same reducer used in the candy mix to 4040 adds a similar material to the equation again. That can, and likely will, reactivate the dye in the candy causing it to bleed. I'm no chemist and some of the ingredients in Createx reducers are a closely guarded secret. You can look up the Safety Data Sheets though and see there are similar ingredients in all of them (4011, 4012, 4013, 4020). So, using a different Createx reducer than was used in the original candy mix is still going to introduce a similar material into the equation which will probably reactivate the dye and cause it to bleed. That's why Createx recommends spraying 4040 straight out of the bottle with no reduction. Again, bumping up your air pressure will help get the product to flow through your airbrush. I'm normally around t-shirt pressure (around 50 or 60 psi) when spraying Bleed Checker through an airbrush.
Another method that reduces or prevents candy bleed in most cases based on my experience is simply using weaker concentrations. In the video I said I generally prefer to mix my candy about 1:1. A 1:1 ratio obviously means about half of that mix is candy2o which is a high concentration. The higher concentration allows faster coverage and builds to a darker value faster, but it also means there's a lot of dye that is prone to bleeding in the mix (depending on the color, some candy colors are more prone to bleeding than others). Using a weaker concentration, say 4:1, 5:1 or 6:1 drastically reduces the amount of dye in the mix which also reduces the tendency for it to bleed because the concentration is less. The downside is it requires more coats to cover.
You might be thinking about using 4030 Balancing Clear as a candy carrier as opposed to UVLS. Would that allow using UVLS to seal the candy? I haven't actually tried this, but looking at the Safety Data Sheets for those two products it is clear they share some of the same ingredients. So, my gut tells me that solution won't work either. I hope all of that makes sense.
@@wickedartstudio Thanks Trevor, that's a lot of information, and it makes sense. I'll try using less candy like 4:1 or more. I'm painting crankbaits and they are small. I spray about six or so of the same colors at a time so a few extra coats will be OK. Sometimes I want some color bleed. On my candy craw for example, I spray everything white, then cover it with pearl white. I then spray the top section with blood read candy and the lower section with tequila yellow. I get a hint of orange at the mix line. I then allow both to bleed into the pearl black I use down the back and for the lines on the sides. Bass love them !!! I also spray a candy bluegill but I'll spare you the details. Thanks again !!!
@@N5KDA You've got the right idea. Some people have a hard time grasping the idea that candy bleeding can be used to your advantage!
Can I use the createx high gloss 4053 or gloss 4050 as my clear coat over pearlized candy as my clear coat?
You can. I wouldn't recommend using it as a final clear coat for an automotive application though.
The blood-red Candy is very...yellow coppery especially in under 4-5 coats. Every find a mix to get it more cherry/true red ?
You have to keep in mind the underlying color will affect the final color, sometimes dramatically, especially when using a dye based candy. For a true red, using a yellow or gold base produces the best results in my opinion.
AHHHH ok im startin to understand abit more lol i think so im using water base paint and so no matter how i mixs it ... ill alway have the pigamit in it ?? trevor . cuase certain colours will be awsome while other not so great alway cleanin the tip .
Hey Dale! Yes, with the exception of the candy2o line, all of the other colors (Auto Air, Wicked & Illustration) are pigment based and do contain pigment regardless of how you mix them.
Theres ONE thing I need to know.... I fully get the (auto Paint part) thats what I do, BUT >... YES you can waste candy 2.0 faster by spraying it by itself,.. but although the sunlight brings out color characteristics vs indoors will not show color as well, I still did not catch (the best reason) or purpose for using the balancer and or in your case the UVLS clear? My guess is that for indoor art work where lighting is limited and not strong, your candy2.0 colors will POP more and be vibrant because it has gloss mixed into it. MY BREAKDOWN....>> Lets say you DONT use the uvls clear as a carrier OR gloss additive BUT your (indoors) art work is going to get an overall clear coat at the end, will that clear coat do the same thing with color pop as the uvls clear will do? Or does the uvls clear do more than just color pop? ALSO....> When it comes to LEXAN rc bodies, because the body serves as a clear coat, DO WE NEED to use the uvls clear for color pop or a carrier for the candy2.0? OR.... This leaves us with either spraying the candy2.0 by itself on the clear lexan body OR using the balancer as a carrier when spraying the clear lexan rc body?
I've been away for a while, so I apologize for the late reply. To clarify, candy2o is a concentrate just like a solvent based aniline dye candy. You would add an intercoat clear (as a carrier) and reducer (to reduce the viscosity) to a solvent based candy in order to spray it correct? The same applies for the water-based candy2o aniline dye based candies. You need to dilute the color with a carrier and then reduce as needed. In the Createx water-based system, UVLS Gloss Clear or 4030 Balancing Clear are the preferred carriers. These are essentially the equivalent of a solvent based intercoat clear. They are both colorless binder more or less. I don't recommend spraying candy2o without mixing it with a carrier (reducer isn't always necessary) for the same reasons we don't do that with a solvent based system. Createx recommends using the Gloss UVLS rather than matte or semi-gloss because they say the gloss has better adhesion properties compared to the other two. I don't know why that is. In my experience, using UVLS Gloss as the carrier does not increase the "pop" of the colors. It doesn't cure to a super glossy finish when mixed with candy2o. You would be better off spraying additional coats of only UVLS Gloss to finish off the project and increase the gloss finish for indoor artwork. For anything that will be subjected to the elements, a good 2k clear is still the best option. Does that make sense?
I know you've done an RC body video before but since the Candy 2.0 has been revised and so much has changed with Createx paints could ,you do a demo video on using Candy 2.0 on some RC bodies? Preferably how to do a rootbeer candy body. Also what's better for RC bodies 4030 or Gloss 4050?
I'll add your request to my list. Either 4030 or 4050 should work well on RC bodies. I don't normally paint RC bodies (there's just not a demand for it where I'm located), but I've pretty much switched to using only 4050 for everything I do. It is a far better product compared to 4030 in my opinion.
Is there a pot life once you mix this like with solvent ? I'm new to waterbase
For best and most complex answer download the technical data sheets. 😉
Generally speaking no, there's no pot life with Createx water-based products like you have with solvent-based systems. There are certain products that will drastically affect the pot life though (4030 Balancing Clear for example). Having said that, Createx paint is not good indefinitely once it has been mixed. I've successfully used mixed paint up to three months later without issue, but I wouldn't advise doing that on a regular basis. I agree with the advice BigAndTall666 gave. Always check the Technical Data Sheet from the manufacturer for answers to technical questions like this. You can find them here creatextech.com/
Do you need to intercoat clear before spraying candy over pigment paint? Or visa versa if you're spraying pigment over candy?
It's not needed. I will use an intercoat clear to protect artwork in some cases, but it is not a requirement.
@@wickedartstudio thank you so much for the response, I truly appreciate it! Your videos have been helpful and inspiring🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@anthonysantos3629 You're very welcome, my friend!
Your videos are very good but I think you may be misinformed on how to mix Createx candy 2o. Chris Arpin from createx says that it is a 1 to 1 mixture, 1 part candy to 1 part 4050 UVLS gloss clear for airbrush use and 6 to 1 mix, 6 parts 4050 UVLS gloss clear to 1 part Candy 2o for spray gun use.
Chris definitely knows what he's talking about; however, there is no hard and fast rule for mixing candy2o for airbrush use (the same is true for spray gun use). I've used a number of different ratios over the years, including a 1:1 with 4050 Gloss. It's really up to the end user to find what works the best for them. A word of caution though... candies are known for bleeding or leeching into subsequent layers of paint. Some colors are worse than others. Using a high concentrated mix, like a 1:1 ratio, comes with a higher risk of contaminating future layers of paint. My artwork is generally completed in multiple layers. I've found that using a lower concentrated candy mixed ratio minimizes the bleeding risk. So, there is no right or wrong answer. It depends on what the artist is trying to achieve.
what did you use to clear over the top?
I use House of Kolor clears.
When do you use bleed checker?
Very rarely. I've honestly had mixed results using Bleed Checker. Sometimes it works well and sometimes it doesn't seem to work at all. I normally plan ahead by using the bleed I assume will happen to my advantage. In areas where I don't want the bleed, I'll generally keep the overlap to a minimum.
I build 1:25 scale models. This sounds too complicated to use on a car model. Too many components to mix b4 you can paint.
Either way, thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Will the UVLS clear seal the candy?
Are you referring to sealing the candy to prevent bleeding?
@@wickedartstudio Yes
@@ronniecb112868 Generally speaking, no. UVLS will not prevent candy from leaching, or bleeding into subsequent layers of paint, especially if you are using UVLS as a carrier for your candy. The idea behind preventing, or stopping candy from bleeding has to do with using dissimilar materials. I've actually used a solvent-based white paint (which is a dissimilar material because it's a completely different system) over candy2o in the past to prevent bleed. If you're using UVLS as a candy carrier and you apply a coat or two of UVLS over the candy in order to prevent bleeding, you're using a similar material. The UVLS can, and likely will, reactivate the dye in the candy and that's what ultimately causes the color to bleed into subsequent layers. That's why Createx developed 4040 Bleed Checker.
4040 is pretty thick and harder to spray through an airbrush without bumping up your air pressure or reducing it; however, reducing 4040 creates the same problem. Adding the same reducer used in the candy mix to 4040 adds a similar material to the equation again. That can, and likely will, reactivate the dye in the candy causing it to bleed. I'm no chemist and some of the ingredients in Createx reducers are a closely guarded secret. You can look up the Safety Data Sheets though and see there are similar ingredients in all of them (4011, 4012, 4013, 4020). So, using a different Createx reducer than was used in the original candy mix is still going to introduce a similar material into the equation which will probably reactivate the dye and cause it to bleed. That's why Createx recommends spraying 4040 straight out of the bottle with no reduction.
Another method that reduces or prevents candy bleed in most cases based on my experience is simply using weaker concentrations. In the video I said I generally prefer to mix my candy about 1:1. A 1:1 ratio obviously means about half of that mix is candy2o which is a high concentration. The higher concentration allows faster coverage and builds to a darker value faster, but it also means there's a lot of dye that is prone to bleeding in the mix (depending on the color, some candy colors are more prone to bleeding than others). Using a weaker concentration, say 4:1, 5:1 or 6:1 drastically reduces the amount of dye in the mix which also reduces the tendency for it to bleed because the concentration is less. The downside is it requires more coats to cover.
You might be thinking about using 4030 Balancing Clear as a candy carrier as opposed to UVLS. Would that allow using UVLS to seal the candy? I haven't actually tried this, but looking at the Safety Data Sheets for those two products it is clear they share some of the same ingredients. So, my gut tells me that solution won't work either. I hope all of that makes sense.
@@wickedartstudioYes it did, thanks for the info. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks again.
What clear are you using?
I use House of Kolor clear.