Saw this video a bit too late, but have since switched over to the 4011 and tossed out the 4012 which was gelling up my airbrushes. Since switching over to only 4011, I have had no issues.
Hi Dan, I'm a model build and new to airbrushing. I have started using Createx paints and this has helped out a lot. I gave you a sub! Thanks for the video 😎👍
I had the clumping problem and couldn't figure out why my Airbrush would just clog and drive me nuts ! I build plastic car models and what a pain when you have to strip and start over. I finally tried the 4050&4011 what a game changer!
would the uvls clear work good for model cars ? I'm new to air brushing and trying to find a good clear I do like the createx line of paints so id like to stick with there clear if possible. great video by the way ive watched a few of your and there a great help keep up the good work
Hi Phil, I personally like and use the UVLS as a carrier for the Candy 2o only. I have tried it as a clear coat over projects and it is difficult to work with. Spraying any clear through an airbrush and getting it to lay down smooth is hard. I use off the shelf rattle can (usually Krylon) clear for interior projects and Spay Max 2K clear (in a can) for exterior projects. I hope this helps and thanks for your support.
Great video, my local Art store only has 4012 & 4013, so I ordered 4011 online. Can you clarify what 4012&4013 are supposed to be used for? It seems odd they have so many reducers but 4011 is what’s recommended for most reducing…
John, through out the years like any other company Createx continually tries to improve there products but sometimes it's not always a winner. 4012 has Acetone in it which make it more hazardous and it also was not playing nice with the 4030 balancing clear. So they decided to scrap the 4012 and return to the 4011 which is proven to work with all there products. If you want to or need to use a balancing clear please use the UVLS 4050 they shouldn't even sell the 4030 in my opinion. There is no need for it and the 4050 is a superior product. As far as the difference between the 4011 and 4013, 4011 Contains Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether Acetate and the 4013 Contains Isopropyl Alcohol. So...4013 is a little milder and environmentally friendly. 4013 Reducer is compliant with clean air regulations and jurisdictions including South Coast AQMD Rule 1401. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Hello Dan, does 4040 have uvls protection? I candy 2Oed something then gave it two coats of 4040 , do I still have to add 2 coats of 4050 to get uv protection under 2k clear?
Hogman22, 4040 Bleed Checker is not used for exterior or uv protection and if you are going to use a 2k clear you will not use the uvls. The 2k has all the exterior durability and protection you need. I only use the uvls as a carrier for the candy 2o. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Julian, Createx recommends 10% or 1 drop per 10 uvls. Not an exact science. I actually use a little more like 3 to 10. Hope this helps and rhanks for watching.
Hi Dan, just re-watched this video as first time around I didn’t really understand the uses of these additives. You talked about using the clears for doing inter coats and I just wondered when and why you would inter coat on a piece of art work?
You would use an inner coat to prevent colors from bleeding through when layering colors. A good example of this would be when layering the candy 2o's. Createx has now come out with a Bleed Checker that basically does the same thing. Some paints even though dry can be reactivated by another paint and bleed through. A good example would be a red color and you Spray white highlites over it, and now you have pink highlights. So the inner coat locks down the color so this doesn't happen. Search out a video of Tru fire with candies being used. That will best show how and why an inner is used. Thank you for the question. And thanks for watching.
Hector, Ceatex Wicked Colors. Start with 10 percent 4011 and 5 percent 4030. Increase reducer if needed to until get good flow. I like the UVLS clear in place of the 4030. But 4030 is fine just make sure you use the 4011 NOT the 4012.
Thanks for the video. It raised a couple of questions for me. If 4012 was what was recommended by Createx for the 4030 and it gelled how could that have ever left the lab? Much less made it onto the TDS and sent out for distribution? Then the customers who bought it had to raise the flag to Createx. I probably don't have the full picture, just going by what I gleaned from your video. Thanks.
Tom, two things. If you ever watch Craig Frasier (rep for Createx) explain how to mix 4012 with the 4030 he says when you add the 4012 to the 4030 let it sit for a few minutes and then start mixing slowly or you can "shock" (gel) the mixture. Also I have noticed that if the 4012 is "fresh" (new) I had a much better shot of it not gelling but yet that same 4012 that was gelling up my 4030 seemed to work fine with my paint. Bottom line is Createx came out with a product that worked but was hard to work with and if a costumer contacted them with a problem with using the 4030 they send you a sample pack of the UVLS clears and the 4011, hmmmmm. Also as I said in the video Createx has reverted back to the 4011 as there "go to" reducer. Some say it is because the 4011 has Acetone in it and his harmful when airborne and some think it is because it didn't work well universally across all of their products. Either way I only use the UVLS clears and the 4011 now and there is no issue's. Thanks for the comment and watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage Dan thanks for the reply. I've just started airbrushing and chose the Createx line largely because of your channel and its overall popularity on the net. I appreciate you taking the time to explain. Your line . . . "Createx came out with a product that worked but was hard to work with . . ." was nicely worded. I have many years with full-size paint guns on cars, boats, RV's, etc. I'm usually shooting something in my shop just about every day. Besides your own skillset and equipment, the product is just as important. Hope you don't mind the questions, just trying to make sure I get off on the right foot with this new venture. Cheers.
Are there still uses for the 4012 reducer? I’ve got a 32 ounce bottle sitting here that has never been used and I sure wouldn’t want to just throw it out. These reducers weren’t cheap either.
You can still use it with your paints or as a cleaner. Just know that it has asatone in it and is not that great to breathe any airborn particles from it. I also fond it can be finicky with so.e Createx products. I never had a problem mixing it with Wicked or illustration colors. So....the answer is yes you can still use it. Thanks for watching. Much appreciated.
thanks for sharing this info, I'm rather new to airbrushing, question,on my finished piece which is on a pretty thick GSM watercolor paper can I spray a uvls clear on it straight out of bottle? or should I mix the uvls with 4011 for the finished product clearcoat? thanks man
Sprawl, All Createx products are made to spray right from the bottle but depending on what you are spraying it through you probably need to reduce to get a good flow. Createx recommends to start at 10% reducer and add from there until you get a good flow. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Not sure the answer, but there is a reason createx changed their spec sheets from 4012 to 4011 to be used with the 4030. Now that I switched to the 4011 it is very consistent for me. Thanks for the comment and watching. Well appreciated.
Saw this video a bit too late, but have since switched over to the 4011 and tossed out the 4012 which was gelling up my airbrushes. Since switching over to only 4011, I have had no issues.
Hi Dan, I'm a model build and new to airbrushing. I have started using Createx paints and this has helped out a lot. I gave you a sub! Thanks for the video 😎👍
I am glad you liked the video. Thank you for subscribing.
I use 4012 with 4030 and uvls both with no gel issue. Wonder what the difference is.
I had the clumping problem and couldn't figure out why my Airbrush would just clog and drive me nuts ! I build plastic car models and what a pain when you have to strip and start over. I finally tried the 4050&4011 what a game changer!
David, thanks for sharing your experience. Thanks for watching.
Deje de usar el 4012 para reducir y lo comencé a utilizar para limpiar el aerografo porque con el 4011 realmente obtienes buenos resultados
Raul, agreed. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the great tips. Just started air brushing and love it. Just got the Createx candy2o. Just subscribed 🤙🏽
Nucollector, thank you for subscribing. I am glad you like the channel. Please let me know if there are certain topics you would like me to cover.
What about 5620? 4050 as a topcoat causes candy2o to bleed.
Hi Ben, I wish I could help but I never used that before.
great info
would the uvls clear work good for model cars ? I'm new to air brushing and trying to find a good clear I do like the createx line of paints so id like to stick with there clear if possible. great video by the way ive watched a few of your and there a great help keep up the good work
Hi Phil, I personally like and use the UVLS as a carrier for the Candy 2o only. I have tried it as a clear coat over projects and it is difficult to work with. Spraying any clear through an airbrush and getting it to lay down smooth is hard. I use off the shelf rattle can (usually Krylon) clear for interior projects and Spay Max 2K clear (in a can) for exterior projects. I hope this helps and thanks for your support.
Great video, my local
Art store only has 4012 & 4013, so I ordered 4011 online. Can you clarify what 4012&4013 are supposed to be used for? It seems odd they have so many reducers but 4011 is what’s recommended for most reducing…
John, through out the years like any other company Createx continually tries to improve there products but sometimes it's not always a winner. 4012 has Acetone in it which make it more hazardous and it also was not playing nice with the 4030 balancing clear. So they decided to scrap the 4012 and return to the 4011 which is proven to work with all there products. If you want to or need to use a balancing clear please use the UVLS 4050 they shouldn't even sell the 4030 in my opinion. There is no need for it and the 4050 is a superior product. As far as the difference between the 4011 and 4013, 4011 Contains Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether Acetate and the 4013 Contains Isopropyl Alcohol. So...4013 is a little milder and environmentally friendly. 4013 Reducer is compliant with clean air regulations and jurisdictions including South Coast AQMD Rule 1401. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Hello Dan, does 4040 have uvls protection? I candy 2Oed something then gave it two coats of 4040 , do I still have to add 2 coats of 4050 to get uv protection under 2k clear?
Hogman22, 4040 Bleed Checker is not used for exterior or uv protection and if you are going to use a 2k clear you will not use the uvls. The 2k has all the exterior durability and protection you need. I only use the uvls as a carrier for the candy 2o. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Using this on miniatures so I have a smaller airbrush, what is the ratio uvl to reducer, for every drop of uvl how many drops of reducer?
Julian, Createx recommends 10% or 1 drop per 10 uvls. Not an exact science. I actually use a little more like 3 to 10. Hope this helps and rhanks for watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage wow thank you so much for such a quick response! I’ll get some today and mess around with it to see what works best
Hi Dan, just re-watched this video as first time around I didn’t really understand the uses of these additives. You talked about using the clears for doing inter coats and I just wondered when and why you would inter coat on a piece of art work?
You would use an inner coat to prevent colors from bleeding through when layering colors. A good example of this would be when layering the candy 2o's. Createx has now come out with a Bleed Checker that basically does the same thing. Some paints even though dry can be reactivated by another paint and bleed through. A good example would be a red color and you Spray white highlites over it, and now you have pink highlights. So the inner coat locks down the color so this doesn't happen. Search out a video of Tru fire with candies being used. That will best show how and why an inner is used. Thank you for the question. And thanks for watching.
Weathering so you only add colors not smudge them or pull the lower layers up. Just helps ensure your colors stay in place and safe.
Hello, What ratio and createx paint do you recommend for paint a Lexan RC bodie, using reducer and 4030 clear balance ?
Hector, Ceatex Wicked Colors. Start with 10 percent 4011 and 5 percent 4030. Increase reducer if needed to until get good flow. I like the UVLS clear in place of the 4030. But 4030 is fine just make sure you use the 4011 NOT the 4012.
Thanks for the video. It raised a couple of questions for me. If 4012 was what was recommended by Createx for the 4030 and it gelled how could that have ever left the lab? Much less made it onto the TDS and sent out for distribution? Then the customers who bought it had to raise the flag to Createx.
I probably don't have the full picture, just going by what I gleaned from your video. Thanks.
Tom, two things. If you ever watch Craig Frasier (rep for Createx) explain how to mix 4012 with the 4030 he says when you add the 4012 to the 4030 let it sit for a few minutes and then start mixing slowly or you can "shock" (gel) the mixture. Also I have noticed that if the 4012 is "fresh" (new) I had a much better shot of it not gelling but yet that same 4012 that was gelling up my 4030 seemed to work fine with my paint. Bottom line is Createx came out with a product that worked but was hard to work with and if a costumer contacted them with a problem with using the 4030 they send you a sample pack of the UVLS clears and the 4011, hmmmmm. Also as I said in the video Createx has reverted back to the 4011 as there "go to" reducer. Some say it is because the 4011 has Acetone in it and his harmful when airborne and some think it is because it didn't work well universally across all of their products. Either way I only use the UVLS clears and the 4011 now and there is no issue's. Thanks for the comment and watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage Dan thanks for the reply. I've just started airbrushing and chose the Createx line largely because of your channel and its overall popularity on the net.
I appreciate you taking the time to explain. Your line . . .
"Createx came out with a product that worked but was hard to work with . . ." was nicely worded.
I have many years with full-size paint guns on cars, boats, RV's, etc. I'm usually shooting something in my shop just about every day. Besides your own skillset and equipment, the product is just as important. Hope you don't mind the questions, just trying to make sure I get off on the right foot with this new venture. Cheers.
Are there still uses for the 4012 reducer? I’ve got a 32 ounce bottle sitting here that has never been used and I sure wouldn’t want to just throw it out. These reducers weren’t cheap either.
You can still use it with your paints or as a cleaner. Just know that it has asatone in it and is not that great to breathe any airborn particles from it. I also fond it can be finicky with so.e Createx products. I never had a problem mixing it with Wicked or illustration colors. So....the answer is yes you can still use it. Thanks for watching. Much appreciated.
thanks for sharing this info, I'm rather new to airbrushing, question,on my finished piece which is on a pretty thick GSM watercolor paper can I spray a uvls clear on it straight out of bottle? or should I mix the uvls with 4011 for the finished product clearcoat? thanks man
Sprawl, All Createx products are made to spray right from the bottle but depending on what you are spraying it through you probably need to reduce to get a good flow. Createx recommends to start at 10% reducer and add from there until you get a good flow. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@TheAirbrushGarage ok gotcha, ya that makes sense, no problem, love your content 😎
I only use the 4011 now found the 4012 to be to hot. Would make every thing curdl like milk.
SRB, yes. That became the the problem. Thanks for the comment and watching.
Not sure the answer, but there is a reason createx changed their spec sheets from 4012 to 4011 to be used with the 4030. Now that I switched to the 4011 it is very consistent for me. Thanks for the comment and watching. Well appreciated.
question sir🙏🏾 is 2k clear still better for parts like motorcycle fairings and gas tanks
nvm..u clearly said to still use automotive clears
Awesome video, new sub here
Thanks Mike, very much appreciated.
Damn 4012 was a failure, i guess. I never get a good mix for 4030 with 4012. Ty so much for information.
Glad you liked the video. thanks for watching.
Water works fine😂