Excellent video. I just bought the kit for only £13 but couldn't see how the large plate went on, until you explained that it goes over the handle! Thank you.
Brilliant video! Just purchased the same kit to do the rear pads on my Fiesta ST over here in the UK and your vid has made life so much easier thank you for posting it.
Thank you for a beautiful, straightforward video with no performance garbage. Most (nearly all) people doing these clips do a mediocre-to-woeful job. Many are in love with their own imagined presentation skills, resulting in appalling, drawn-out, garbled, low-content crap. Great to hear your advice on aspects of calipers that others don't know or care about! 👍 I subscribed, of course. Some thoughts on the wind back kit... Firstly, it's vastly superior to other methods. My car is approaching classic status; if I heave at it with pliers and screwdrivers, and tear a rubber boot or do other damage, I'll heartily regret it. So I invested in the kit, and I can say it's well worth it. My calipers are installed with no hose to spare; I can't blame Honda, they were running low on brake line hose that day. So my calipers are very awkward to handle once they're off the bracket, which is not easy to achieve to start with. With the wind back kit, what I found is that even with a very stiff piston, the tool handle is wide enough to generate sufficient torque using only one hand, leaving my other hand free to continually take up the slack on the adjusting collar. It's actually quite easy to keep them both turning together, rather than advance the screw, and then stop to tighten the collar. Thanks again, Richard!
Yes you are so right. Nothing worse than having to scroll through a video to get to the core information. Your comment brought to mind the kruger-dunning effect. Worth reading up on.
@@TheIrishMegaphone Wow, a passive-aggressive pop-psychologist, that's unusual. Per the approved modern style, you can't merely disagree, lol; if someone thinks differently to _you,_ they are by definition mentally ill. 😆
@@lucasgroves137 I think you have misunderstood my comment. I was actually agreeing with your comment regarding such videos (not this one which was excellent). Apologies if you didn’t pick up on that. Maybe I should have written with more clarity. Regards.
@@TheIrishMegaphone I was starting to get nervous since it's late in the evening and I still hadn't done anything appalling all day. At least now that tension's resolved. Please accept my apologies for hastily slapping someone normal... possibly the only sane person in 50 Internet miles. My only, albeit pitiful, excuse is that I'm not used to meeting them. I'm certainly conditioned to expect contempt for the notion that standards of a recently bygone era are still useful, let alone important. 🙏
Great video with excellent narrative. I just bought this tool at Amazon for $19. I don't need to do any brake jobs but remember last time without the tool, it was a bugger. I did the front brakes on my 2002 SAAB 9-5 at 77K miles and now have 172K miles on those same pads. Still around 50%. I bought Akebono pads back then and hated them. Yet years later, still have them on. I had Pagid Pads before and the SAAB stopped on a dime but ate the rotors. With the Akebono's, no dusting or rotor wear but doesn't stop like it should. Now I have this tool and will put on some aggressive pads on the SAAB again.
Thanks so much for this fella. Saved my bacon this afternoon. Haven’t changed pads for a while and couldn’t work out where I was going wrong with my kit. Your video showed me the problem and then it was plain sailing. 😊
Remember to lubricate the jack screw and only crank it by hand. Do not use an air tool or you can strip the screw. Also, I want to mention in the video I removed the steering knuckle and did the job on a bench vise. It is not necessary to remove the steering knuckle as you can use the kit right on the car. Let me know how you make out.
THANK YOU! I was just about to chuck this tool in a lake. I was convinced I had to use the LH tool for the left side. Not on a 2007 Jaguar S-Type....RH tool worked like a charm. Thanks again for that crucial detail! SUBSCRIBED.
Thanks for the comment. So far I have only found one vehicle that used the left hand wind back tool. That was as I recall a 2004 or 2005 Ford 500. On that vehicle the caliper wound back clockwise on the right side and counter clockwise on the left side. That is the only time I have ever used the left hand wind back tool. I am sure there must be others. Thanks for watching my channel.
Not sure why people keep saying this. Regardless of how much torque is required to compress the piston, the collar simply loosens as the tool is wound; it's easy enough to tighten by hand. 🤔
@@lucasgroves137 the collar doesn't loosen ,if u look the collar turns with the thread,if u put a open end spanner or better still vice grips on the nut ,this holds the caliper and keeps the plate tight ,2 second job♥️🇬🇧
Thank you for the suggestion. Yes, you are right, currently the collar spins the same time the t-bar spins. Somehow, the t-bar only rotates one direction which is clockwise, hence the tool does not compress piston down. Will try again, in the meantime, Any other thoughts will be welcome. 😊
@@sopissedoff Condolences if you have a kit which -works like that- does that to you. Mine doesn't; instead, as I mentioned, the pressure plate loosens as the piston is compressed, and I simply advance the nut by hand to keep it engaged; no need to juggle extra tools. Perhaps my kit's a special, high-tech version.
Thanks heaps for this- saved me heaps of $ doing it myself using this set, which I brought at a garage sale for $5 and was told they were for changing brake pads etc. so glad I purchased it. Also got this other set for removing hose clamps of different types
I bought this very tool for a brake job on my 2015 Fiat 500L (in the blue case) and it worked like a charm! Used same winder on left and right sides, used a thumb wrench to hold the adjustment sleeve as someone else suggested. Just check every so often that the rubber isn't getting mangled!
Thanks for your comment. What I do sometimes if the boot looks like it is going to get damaged is spray some silicone on it. I don't spray the silicone unless it looks like I need it because I want to watch for brake fluid seepage as I am winding back the piston. Thanks for watching my channel.
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. No, just remove the cap to the master cylinder. Watch the fluid level to make sure it does not go above the max line, if need be, use a turkey baster type tool to remove any excess fluid.
That is how I do it. i pick out several adaptors that look like they might fit the top of the piston, then try them to find the one that fits the best.
Yes quite possibly; The slots in the piston must line up with the raised bosses on the backing of the inner pad if so equipped. These said bosses will fit into the slots on the caliper piston. Next time I do a video on that type of rear caliper I will clear that up. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching my channel.
I was hoping you´d go through the kit itself and talk about the different adapters, the two pin plate is to small to fit in the notches of a golf v rear piston , the next sizes up only have one notch on the plate... I mean htf is that supposed to work ?
You did not mention what year your car is? some of the newer Volkswagens utilize an Electonic parking brake servo. you will need to plug in a scan tool into the computer port to make the car retract the servo, then you can press the piston back in by the convectional means, you will not need to turn the piston as you press it in.
Used the tool on the wrong side, and now the piston is all the way to the top, could not get the tool out. Any suggestions to force the piston down? Thank you!
I don't see how that could be possible! If you had the tool on the wrong side, it would be trying to press the piston in as the piston would be trying to wind outward. The whole thing should have just jammed in place, and you should not have been able to turn it at all. I wish I had been with you to see exactly what you did and how you did it. My only suggestion is to disconnect the brake hose and take it to a repair shop and show them exactly what you did. Perhaps they can get you out of it. Worst case you will have to replace the caliper and the tool. Keep in touch as I am very interested in the outcome. I wish I could be of more help.
@@richardspaulding5035 thanks for the reply! Will take the caliper off and see if the shop can help. Didn’t know the side matters this much, and the shop I rented from didn’t remind me either. What caused it is the RH thread locks the position once piston is up, and leaves no space to get the tool out. Ordered a new caliper just in case, the jammed part in the caliper will be a badge of honor hanging in my garage for future work. 😂
@@freedomrevival1375 Sounds like you somehow managed to back the piston out instead of inward. The idea is to push the piston back into the caliper bore to make room for the new much thicker pads. You may well have been using the correct tool but turning it the wrong way, if that is possible. For most vehicles the RH tool works for both sides. The only vehicle I have encountered that required the RH tool on one side and the LH tool on the other is a 2005/2006 Ford 500. I understand some foreign vehicles will require the LH tool as well.
Thanks again, that’s good to know I might have some hope to get this tool out from the caliper. As I replied to the other comment, currently the middle collar spins as the t-bar spins, so a spanner might worth trying, BUT the t-bar in my case only rotated clockwise, is that supposed to be or I did something wrong? Should’t it be both ways, so can be used for both side? That’s where I got stick. Thank you!!
Hi Rick....another well explained and interesting video so thank you for posting. Im presuming if this operation is being carried out on the vehicle in situ and there is ABS fitted, then the rubber brake line would need to be clamped, and the bleed nut opened, so that when you wind back the brake caliper piston you do not force brake fluid back through the ABS modulator and master cylinder seals which could potentially cause damage, is that correct please? Thank you, best regards, Stefano (UK)....
@@richardspaulding5035 Thank you for your reply, can you please explain the difference between the open and closed braking system, best regards, Stefano
@@stefanobio7045 I don't fully understand the difference. With an open system you can bleed as normal as the fluid will pass through the abs module. In a closed system the module must be blead separately with an expensive scan tool. The scan tool communicates with the vehicles computer and instructs the car to perform the task. I recently replaced a master cylinder in a Nissan. I was not sure what type of system the car had so I called my local dealership. They told me it was an open system and bleed as normal. Had it been closed I would have bought the car in to them. It is not worth it for me to invest in the equipment. Call your local dealership as i did if you are not sure what you have.
@@richardspaulding5035 Hi Rick thank you for your reply....so in a closed braking system you have to use some form of diagnostic scan tool (expensive) and then you can activate the ABS pump which would then cause pressure in the brake lines, so then you can open the caliper nuts and bleed air from the braking system, would that be correct? If you do not have the correct scan tool to operate the ABS to bleed air from the braking system, then how can you drive the vehicle to the dealer with potentially air in the braking sysyem?
@@stefanobio7045 I would find out before hand what I had. There are very few vehicles that actually have a closed system. There are some GM models but beyond that I would not worry.
I wish I had an answer for your question. There are many adaptors in the kit for a large variety of vehicles. As of yet I have not had an occasion to used them all. It would have been nice if they had a label on each one as to its purpose.
@@richardspaulding5035 no worries man I have the neiko one and it has the same thing and does not fit the tool so I was trying to figure out it’s use is all ! Thanks for the reply
A Turning-Pressing motion required for these types of disk brakes. Without a good video & explaination, I would never have dreamed that this tool was required. It is required and it is not possible to push back the hydraulic cyliner piston without it.
Sorry I took so long to reply. It is possible but it takes a little more mussel to twist and push in at the same time. Later in the video I demonstrated using plyers and an attachment that looks like a big dice to accomplish resetting the piston.
@@richardspaulding5035 Just the very concept that a disk brake caliper would be a different design & not what was encountered in the past doing my own brakes took a few days to sink in, that it is virtually impossible to use a HUGE C-Clamp and still not be the winner.
@@wonderfulworld5134 I dont think we are quite on the same page. The kit is only for a certain style rear caliper that have the emergency brake cable attached to a built-in lever that cranks the piston outward when you apply the emergency brake. Most other calipers can use a c clamp as you described.
Sadly, I have the tool kit as you are showing. My piston was not even budging. Left screw on the left side of the vehicle. Now I will just leave it at a garage. Hope they can fix it. We will see.
You know it is not always left handed screw on the left side and right handed screw on the right side. On most all vehicles the right handed screw is for both sides. The only vehicle I have ever come across requiring the left handed screw is a 2010 Ford 500. You may well be attempting to turn the piston the wrong way. Let me know
No, this kit is only for the rear calipers that require the piston to rotate as it is pressed back in. This is to accommodate the parking brake mechanism. The front calipers do not have parking brakes.
@@uphill248Come to think of it I have an old front caliper on my scrap pile. I am going to retrieve it and see if it is possible to press the piston with this kit. I will get back to you in a day or so. Otherwise there are separate tools available for the front. Some guys use c clamp.
I just use a 10-inch C-clamp to squeeze the piston back into the housing (screw on center of piston, anvil on back of cylinder housing). Piston does not have to rotate which sometimes may twist and damage to boot. Works all the time.
Thanks for the comment zuko; Most of the modern rear calipers have a built in lever that cranks the piston out when the e brake is engaged. Those type calipers require the piston to rotate as you press the piston back in. That is what the kit is designed to do. Obviously you are working on the old style caliper that does not have this feature. On those calipers you would never try to rotate the piston. Thanks for watching.
No, sometimes it is counter-clockwise. That is why they provide both a left and right-handed turn tool. The last time I worked on a car that required the left-handed tool was a 2005 ford 500. The Ford 500 was in response to the very successful Chrysler 300. Ford only produced the car for a couple of years. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching my channel.
It should turn clockwise. Is it posible that the e brake is applied or the cable is frozen in the on position. Or possibly the actuator lever is stuck. Try lightly taping the lever back with a small hammer to release any tension. Let me know
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for responding, I got it, just needed the proper silicone lubricant and proper leverage. Now onto bleeding the brake fluid! Some videos say to evacuate the old fluid out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster and fill with new fluid before the bleeding process. Is this necessary or can I just hook up the bleeder and proceed from there? Thanks
@@richardspaulding5035 Wait, ok so all the bleed points went well except for the front right caliper which didn't bleed at all. The pressure bleeder otherwise kept its pressure and I couldnt see any leaks to the front right. I read that it could be a faulty caliper sliding pins, but I just did all 4 wheels discs and pads and lubed all caliper sliding pins. What do you think?
Wow Excellent video. Clean, Swift, Cut to the point. Smart fella.Thank you! Sir. Maybe one day . You can show us how to use Pittsburgh Brake Tool set. From Harbor Freight 7 pec. Tool set. item 57235 👍😉🇺🇸🙏
I've had one of these stuck on my caliper for about 6 hours now. Wrongly used the left hand thread and once tightened I can't get it off. Over 6 hrs now trying to get this POS OFF the bleeping caliper. Everything combination of moving the body and handle. It will start to loosen a bit but then 2 turns later it's tight again. Doing the small movements as you show. Totally frustrated and po'ed. LOL
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. I hope you got it apart. The kit comes with both left and right-handed handles. Sometimes people mistakenly think they are for each side of the vehicle. Very seldom will you be needing the left-handed handle. In recent years the only car I have needed the left-handed handle was on a 2006 Ford 500.
@@richardspaulding5035 Hi, thanks. No worries. Bad internet advise said my car WAS one of the few that use a lefty on the passenger side. As usual that's for the full sized Transit vans and not a Transit Connect that people are advising..... Still, it woudn't loosen, no matter and I spent HOURS trying it. 1/2 hr with angle grinder and cutting wheel.
Needle nose pliers and the cube tool work in a pinch, but they will make you reevaluate your life choices. I can't see a situation where you would really need one "in a pinch." Buy or rent the proper tool. They're so affordable now, there's no reason not to.
I recommend changing the speed to 1.5 for this slow talker. Great info though, more thorough than most. You actually made a pretty good case for the dice tool and the needle nose pliers! If this is a job that you're only doing once in a blue moon, one of those methods should cover it. Thanks.
Thanks for your concern, you are very observant to notice the vehicle in the background is only being supported by a jack. Being that it has been 3 years or more I do not recall what I was doing to the car at that time. I do however assure you I never get under a car without it both being supported by a stand and a jack after a close call I had once. I was under a car being supported by 2 stands on the front frame rails of a front wheel drive car. Stupidly I did not set the E brake or block the rear wheels, furthermore the car had an oil leak, and the frame rails were wet. Complicating things my loyal German Shepherd crawled under there with me. Suddenly I noticed the car starting to slip on the stands because of the oil, I rolled out with the dog right behind me. We both got out just as the car came crashing down. I don't think my wife at the time cared much about me but would have been pissed if I killed the dog LOL. Thanks again, by all means don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035 I meant it only for a lookout for you & anyone else who might watch. Glad you and doggie were good in that mishap. I’ve been working on cars for over thirty years. I’ve heard a lot of bad stories over the years… to the point I have a phobia. But, it’s a fear that is a good one imo. My jack stands even have pins. I put wheels under the side rails too. Have a good one.
@@zigwil153 I meant no disrespect, your suggestion was well taken. Over the years it is easy to get a little careless, I have a few more years on you however, I opened my first shop in 1977. I am retired now and have a small shop at my home. I only work on friends and family vehicles these days as I will be 71 next month. My Beloved shepherd passed away this past September. Enjoyed our conversation.
Thanks for the question Happy; The bolt / nut is only there to maintain contact between the end of the tool and the caliper piston. Every 1/2 turn or so of the handle causes the tool to separate a little from the piston. This is because the piston threads back into the caliper a little faster than the pitch of the threaded rod in the tool will allow. By continually adjusting that bolt / nut you can maintain contact. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 thank you for your response, and beautiful dog, So on a front caliper, one that does not need to be twisted down, can you use just the nut and wrench on it rather then the T handle? That seemed to make life really easy
@@happytrails5342 Thanks; the dogs name is Hi Ho. I do not use this tool for calipers that don't require wind back in such as front calipers. If you check out this video th-cam.com/video/iE1lwU_yATs/w-d-xo.html at 13:30 you will see what I use for front calipers. It is part of a Snap-On puller set that I purchased off the Snap-on truck in the 1970s. It is not what the tool was intended for but it works great for that purpose. I have been using it in that manner for more than 40 years. I have enjoyed the opportunity to respond to your questions. My channel is still small enough that I try to respond to all my comments. By all means don't be a stranger.
Thanks for the comment Fabian; However I think would much nicer if you could possibly elaborate as to how you feel the demonstration had failed. Thanks for watching.
@@richardspaulding5035 Ok, put an open end spanner on the hex on the piece that keeps coming loose as you turn the handle. You turn the spanner anti clockwise while turning the handle clockwise at the same time. It avoids all the stuffing around you did.It takes me about 5 sec to wind them in this way. Good on you for making the video either way.On some calipers a angle grinder spanner works well too.
@@Hahehhwgajshah72726.. Thanks; Now I will be able to sleep tonight. Next time I use the kit I will most certainly try it your way. Thanks again, don't be a stranger.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 91 | คู่เอก "คมอาวุธ vs อเล็กเซย์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V0RkEfYFsgM/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video. I just bought the kit for only £13 but couldn't see how the large plate went on, until you explained that it goes over the handle! Thank you.
glad the video was helpful
Thanks so much for a great explanation...really liked the demo on the wrong tool as well .
Thanks for the kind words. I am glad you found my channel and found the video helpful.
Brilliant video! Just purchased the same kit to do the rear pads on my Fiesta ST over here in the UK and your vid has made life so much easier thank you for posting it.
Thanks for the very kind comment. I am in Massachusetts, it is fun to hear from people in other countries.
Thank you for a beautiful, straightforward video with no performance garbage. Most (nearly all) people doing these clips do a mediocre-to-woeful job. Many are in love with their own imagined presentation skills, resulting in appalling, drawn-out, garbled, low-content crap. Great to hear your advice on aspects of calipers that others don't know or care about! 👍 I subscribed, of course.
Some thoughts on the wind back kit... Firstly, it's vastly superior to other methods. My car is approaching classic status; if I heave at it with pliers and screwdrivers, and tear a rubber boot or do other damage, I'll heartily regret it. So I invested in the kit, and I can say it's well worth it. My calipers are installed with no hose to spare; I can't blame Honda, they were running low on brake line hose that day. So my calipers are very awkward to handle once they're off the bracket, which is not easy to achieve to start with. With the wind back kit, what I found is that even with a very stiff piston, the tool handle is wide enough to generate sufficient torque using only one hand, leaving my other hand free to continually take up the slack on the adjusting collar. It's actually quite easy to keep them both turning together, rather than advance the screw, and then stop to tighten the collar. Thanks again, Richard!
Thanks for sharing that information, it will be helpful to other viewers. Enjoy hearing from you.
Yes you are so right. Nothing worse than having to scroll through a video to get to the core information. Your comment brought to mind the kruger-dunning effect. Worth reading up on.
@@TheIrishMegaphone Wow, a passive-aggressive pop-psychologist, that's unusual. Per the approved modern style, you can't merely disagree, lol; if someone thinks differently to _you,_ they are by definition mentally ill. 😆
@@lucasgroves137 I think you have misunderstood my comment. I was actually agreeing with your comment regarding such videos (not this one which was excellent). Apologies if you didn’t pick up on that. Maybe I should have written with more clarity. Regards.
@@TheIrishMegaphone I was starting to get nervous since it's late in the evening and I still hadn't done anything appalling all day. At least now that tension's resolved. Please accept my apologies for hastily slapping someone normal... possibly the only sane person in 50 Internet miles. My only, albeit pitiful, excuse is that I'm not used to meeting them. I'm certainly conditioned to expect contempt for the notion that standards of a recently bygone era are still useful, let alone important. 🙏
Perfect video now I know how to use my caliper rewind tool set
Thanks Mike; I am glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching my channel.
Great video with excellent narrative. I just bought this tool at Amazon for $19. I don't need to do any brake jobs but remember last time without the tool, it was a bugger. I did the front brakes on my 2002 SAAB 9-5 at 77K miles and now have 172K miles on those same pads. Still around 50%. I bought Akebono pads back then and hated them. Yet years later, still have them on. I had Pagid Pads before and the SAAB stopped on a dime but ate the rotors. With the Akebono's, no dusting or rotor wear but doesn't stop like it should. Now I have this tool and will put on some aggressive pads on the SAAB again.
Thanks for sharing, Scott, I am glad you found my channel. don't be a stranger.
Thanks so much for this fella. Saved my bacon this afternoon. Haven’t changed pads for a while and couldn’t work out where I was going wrong with my kit. Your video showed me the problem and then it was plain sailing. 😊
Thanks Edd, I am glad you found my channel and found the video helpful. Don't be a stranger.
Thanks heaps mate. Good clear info/explanation and demonstration.
Thanks rodneys for the kind words. That is what I am striving for, a steady camera and no nonsense. Thanks for watching my channel.
You have answered all my doubts in one video. You are really knowledgeable. Salute to you. Subscribed and Liked very much.
Thanks Richard for the very kind words; I am glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching my channel and thanks very much for subscribing.
Thanks just received that kit! And your video really teached me how to use it! Once again thank you!
Remember to lubricate the jack screw and only crank it by hand. Do not use an air tool or you can strip the screw. Also, I want to mention in the video I removed the steering knuckle and did the job on a bench vise. It is not necessary to remove the steering knuckle as you can use the kit right on the car. Let me know how you make out.
THANK YOU! I was just about to chuck this tool in a lake. I was convinced I had to use the LH tool for the left side. Not on a 2007 Jaguar S-Type....RH tool worked like a charm. Thanks again for that crucial detail! SUBSCRIBED.
Thanks for the comment. So far I have only found one vehicle that used the left hand wind back tool. That was as I recall a 2004 or 2005 Ford 500. On that vehicle the caliper wound back clockwise on the right side and counter clockwise on the left side. That is the only time I have ever used the left hand wind back tool. I am sure there must be others. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035. Ford Taurus are the same as the 500
@@georgeburns7251 Yes, I believe 2009 and 10 are the same with slightly modified panels
Using an adjustable wrench to hold the middle piece so it doesn't rotate while you compress the piston will help.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Not sure why people keep saying this. Regardless of how much torque is required to compress the piston, the collar simply loosens as the tool is wound; it's easy enough to tighten by hand. 🤔
@@lucasgroves137 the collar doesn't loosen ,if u look the collar turns with the thread,if u put a open end spanner or better still vice grips on the nut ,this holds the caliper and keeps the plate tight ,2 second job♥️🇬🇧
Thank you for the suggestion. Yes, you are right, currently the collar spins the same time the t-bar spins. Somehow, the t-bar only rotates one direction which is clockwise, hence the tool does not compress piston down. Will try again, in the meantime, Any other thoughts will be welcome. 😊
@@sopissedoff Condolences if you have a kit which -works like that- does that to you. Mine doesn't; instead, as I mentioned, the pressure plate loosens as the piston is compressed, and I simply advance the nut by hand to keep it engaged; no need to juggle extra tools. Perhaps my kit's a special, high-tech version.
Thanks heaps for this- saved me heaps of $ doing it myself using this set, which I brought at a garage sale for $5 and was told they were for changing brake pads etc. so glad I purchased it. Also got this other set for removing hose clamps of different types
I love garage sales, glad the video was helpful.
Hold a open ended spanner on the plate it stops it from going loose, good vid👍🏻
I have tried that; does not work as I still have to keep adjusting it every couple of turns
You can use a wrench on the adjustment sleeve so you don’t have to keep winding it back after each turn. Just a tip for someone...nice vid!!
LOL thanks, I never thought of that. too simple. I will do that next time.
I was thinking the same thing 👍🏻
I bought this very tool for a brake job on my 2015 Fiat 500L (in the blue case) and it worked like a charm! Used same winder on left and right sides, used a thumb wrench to hold the adjustment sleeve as someone else suggested. Just check every so often that the rubber isn't getting mangled!
Thanks for your comment. What I do sometimes if the boot looks like it is going to get damaged is spray some silicone on it. I don't spray the silicone unless it looks like I need it because I want to watch for brake fluid seepage as I am winding back the piston. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 Are you Capt. Spaulding, 🙄
@@richardspaulding5035 th-cam.com/video/5BMtqqHRvB8/w-d-xo.html
@@acehandler1530 LOL
Great video, a great help. Thank you!
I am glad you found my channel, Thanks B1R for watching
Thank you so much for making this video!
Thanks James, I am glad you found my channel and found the video helpful. Thanks for watching.
Should it be necessary to open the bleeder screw to compress the piston?
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. No, just remove the cap to the master cylinder. Watch the fluid level to make sure it does not go above the max line, if need be, use a turkey baster type tool to remove any excess fluid.
thank your for showing how to use this tools i bought one do you know what size i use for hrv 2020? by chance or i just have to try them all
That is how I do it. i pick out several adaptors that look like they might fit the top of the piston, then try them to find the one that fits the best.
Do i have to line up the slots vertical when fully contracted?
Yes quite possibly; The slots in the piston must line up with the raised bosses on the backing of the inner pad if so equipped. These said bosses will fit into the slots on the caliper piston. Next time I do a video on that type of rear caliper I will clear that up. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching my channel.
Best instructions ! Thank you .
Glad it was helpful, Thanks for the kind words.
I was hoping you´d go through the kit itself and talk about the different adapters, the two pin plate is to small to fit in the notches of a golf v rear piston , the next sizes up only have one notch on the plate... I mean htf is that supposed to work ?
You did not mention what year your car is? some of the newer Volkswagens utilize an Electonic parking brake servo. you will need to plug in a scan tool into the computer port to make the car retract the servo, then you can press the piston back in by the convectional means, you will not need to turn the piston as you press it in.
Thank you for showing how to actually using this kit!
Thanks for watching. I am glad you found the video helpful.
Used the tool on the wrong side, and now the piston is all the way to the top, could not get the tool out. Any suggestions to force the piston down? Thank you!
I don't see how that could be possible! If you had the tool on the wrong side, it would be trying to press the piston in as the piston would be trying to wind outward. The whole thing should have just jammed in place, and you should not have been able to turn it at all. I wish I had been with you to see exactly what you did and how you did it. My only suggestion is to disconnect the brake hose and take it to a repair shop and show them exactly what you did. Perhaps they can get you out of it. Worst case you will have to replace the caliper and the tool. Keep in touch as I am very interested in the outcome. I wish I could be of more help.
@@richardspaulding5035 thanks for the reply! Will take the caliper off and see if the shop can help. Didn’t know the side matters this much, and the shop I rented from didn’t remind me either. What caused it is the RH thread locks the position once piston is up, and leaves no space to get the tool out. Ordered a new caliper just in case, the jammed part in the caliper will be a badge of honor hanging in my garage for future work. 😂
@@richardspaulding5035 By the way, the tool I rented was RH only tool, which I thought it was universal.
@@freedomrevival1375 Sounds like you somehow managed to back the piston out instead of inward. The idea is to push the piston back into the caliper bore to make room for the new much thicker pads. You may well have been using the correct tool but turning it the wrong way, if that is possible. For most vehicles the RH tool works for both sides. The only vehicle I have encountered that required the RH tool on one side and the LH tool on the other is a 2005/2006 Ford 500. I understand some foreign vehicles will require the LH tool as well.
Thanks again, that’s good to know I might have some hope to get this tool out from the caliper. As I replied to the other comment, currently the middle collar spins as the t-bar spins, so a spanner might worth trying, BUT the t-bar in my case only rotated clockwise, is that supposed to be or I did something wrong? Should’t it be both ways, so can be used for both side? That’s where I got stick. Thank you!!
Hi Rick....another well explained and interesting video so thank you for posting.
Im presuming if this operation is being carried out on the vehicle in situ and there is ABS fitted, then the rubber brake line would need to be clamped, and the bleed nut opened, so that when you wind back the brake caliper piston you do not force brake fluid back through the ABS modulator and master cylinder seals which could potentially cause damage, is that correct please? Thank you, best regards, Stefano (UK)....
That would only be the case on a closed system. Most of the major manufacturers have.open systems. Thanks for watching and thanks for the question.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thank you for your reply, can you please explain the difference between the open and closed braking system, best regards, Stefano
@@stefanobio7045 I don't fully understand the difference. With an open system you can bleed as normal as the fluid will pass through the abs module. In a closed system the module must be blead separately with an expensive scan tool. The scan tool communicates with the vehicles computer and instructs the car to perform the task. I recently replaced a master cylinder in a Nissan. I was not sure what type of system the car had so I called my local dealership. They told me it was an open system and bleed as normal. Had it been closed I would have bought the car in to them. It is not worth it for me to invest in the equipment. Call your local dealership as i did if you are not sure what you have.
@@richardspaulding5035 Hi Rick thank you for your reply....so in a closed braking system you have to use some form of diagnostic scan tool (expensive) and then you can activate the ABS pump which would then cause pressure in the brake lines, so then you can open the caliper nuts and bleed air from the braking system, would that be correct? If you do not have the correct scan tool to operate the ABS to bleed air from the braking system, then how can you drive the vehicle to the dealer with potentially air in the braking sysyem?
@@stefanobio7045 I would find out before hand what I had. There are very few vehicles that actually have a closed system. There are some GM models but beyond that I would not worry.
What is the adapter for with the 3/8 hole in the middle?
I wish I had an answer for your question. There are many adaptors in the kit for a large variety of vehicles. As of yet I have not had an occasion to used them all. It would have been nice if they had a label on each one as to its purpose.
@@richardspaulding5035 no worries man I have the neiko one and it has the same thing and does not fit the tool so I was trying to figure out it’s use is all ! Thanks for the reply
A Turning-Pressing motion required for these types of disk brakes. Without a good video & explaination, I would never have dreamed that this tool was required. It is required and it is not possible to push back the hydraulic cyliner piston without it.
Sorry I took so long to reply. It is possible but it takes a little more mussel to twist and push in at the same time. Later in the video I demonstrated using plyers and an attachment that looks like a big dice to accomplish resetting the piston.
@@richardspaulding5035 Just the very concept that a disk brake caliper would be a different design & not what was encountered in the past doing my own brakes took a few days to sink in, that it is virtually impossible to use a HUGE C-Clamp and still not be the winner.
@@wonderfulworld5134 I dont think we are quite on the same page. The kit is only for a certain style rear caliper that have the emergency brake cable attached to a built-in lever that cranks the piston outward when you apply the emergency brake. Most other calipers can use a c clamp as you described.
Sadly, I have the tool kit as you are showing. My piston was not even budging. Left screw on the left side of the vehicle. Now I will just leave it at a garage. Hope they can fix it. We will see.
You know it is not always left handed screw on the left side and right handed screw on the right side. On most all vehicles the right handed screw is for both sides. The only vehicle I have ever come across requiring the left handed screw is a 2010 Ford 500. You may well be attempting to turn the piston the wrong way. Let me know
Just ordered me a kit tonight from Ebay 😮
great let me know how you like it
Do you use the kit for the front caliper too?
No, this kit is only for the rear calipers that require the piston to rotate as it is pressed back in. This is to accommodate the parking brake mechanism. The front calipers do not have parking brakes.
@@richardspaulding5035 which kit should I get for both? And why is there a blue one and a red kit.
@@uphill248Come to think of it I have an old front caliper on my scrap pile. I am going to retrieve it and see if it is possible to press the piston with this kit. I will get back to you in a day or so. Otherwise there are separate tools available for the front. Some guys use c clamp.
@ ok thank you.
@@uphill248 Yes it will work, I never noticed before but there is a flat adaptor included with the kit that allows you to use it with front calipers.
I just use a 10-inch C-clamp to squeeze the piston back into the housing (screw on center of piston, anvil on back of cylinder housing). Piston does not have to rotate which sometimes may twist and damage to boot. Works all the time.
Thanks for the comment zuko; Most of the modern rear calipers have a built in lever that cranks the piston out when the e brake is engaged. Those type calipers require the piston to rotate as you press the piston back in. That is what the kit is designed to do. Obviously you are working on the old style caliper that does not have this feature. On those calipers you would never try to rotate the piston. Thanks for watching.
Well done. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. I am glad you found my channel and found the video helpful.
Isn't it always clockwise to push the piston back? left or right?
No, sometimes it is counter-clockwise. That is why they provide both a left and right-handed turn tool. The last time I worked on a car that required the left-handed tool was a 2005 ford 500. The Ford 500 was in response to the very successful Chrysler 300. Ford only produced the car for a couple of years. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching my channel.
Wery nice video.Thanks
Thanks for the kind words simba and thanks for watching
Great Demo.... thank you
Thanks, I am glad it was helpful.
Great explantation!
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching my channel.
My piston won't turn AT ALL. I'm using the exact same tool kit in the video. 1998 Jetta. 1A Auto are no help at all. Somebody please help!!!
It should turn clockwise. Is it posible that the e brake is applied or the cable is frozen in the on position. Or possibly the actuator lever is stuck. Try lightly taping the lever back with a small hammer to release any tension. Let me know
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for responding, I got it, just needed the proper silicone lubricant and proper leverage. Now onto bleeding the brake fluid! Some videos say to evacuate the old fluid out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster and fill with new fluid before the bleeding process. Is this necessary or can I just hook up the bleeder and proceed from there? Thanks
@@drittttt if you are just trying to get the air out it is not necessary, however if you are trying to flush the system yes by all means.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks again!!
@@richardspaulding5035 Wait, ok so all the bleed points went well except for the front right caliper which didn't bleed at all. The pressure bleeder otherwise kept its pressure and I couldnt see any leaks to the front right. I read that it could be a faulty caliper sliding pins, but I just did all 4 wheels discs and pads and lubed all caliper sliding pins. What do you think?
im sure if you hold the nut or put a wrench on it and itll not become loose
Thanks for the suggestion but I only have two hands.
@@richardspaulding5035 thats all you need
I have that tools, thanks the video. worth it to watch.
Thanks for the kind words, I am glad you found the video helpful.
Nicely done. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words birdoguapo and thanks for watching my channel.
Great video, thanks
Thanks dennis; I am glad you enjoyed the video
Wow Excellent video. Clean, Swift, Cut to the point. Smart fella.Thank you! Sir. Maybe one day . You can show us how to use Pittsburgh Brake Tool set. From Harbor Freight 7 pec. Tool set. item 57235 👍😉🇺🇸🙏
I don't own that one, I will take a look at it
The caliper has arrows on it that will tell you right or left
Thanks, I never noticed before. I have only used the left hand side once, that was on a 2008 Ford 500 as i recall.
I've had one of these stuck on my caliper for about 6 hours now. Wrongly used the left hand thread and once tightened I can't get it off. Over 6 hrs now trying to get this POS OFF the bleeping caliper. Everything combination of moving the body and handle. It will start to loosen a bit but then 2 turns later it's tight again. Doing the small movements as you show.
Totally frustrated and po'ed. LOL
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. I hope you got it apart. The kit comes with both left and right-handed handles. Sometimes people mistakenly think they are for each side of the vehicle. Very seldom will you be needing the left-handed handle. In recent years the only car I have needed the left-handed handle was on a 2006 Ford 500.
@@richardspaulding5035 Hi, thanks. No worries. Bad internet advise said my car WAS one of the few that use a lefty on the passenger side. As usual that's for the full sized Transit vans and not a Transit Connect that people are advising..... Still, it woudn't loosen, no matter and I spent HOURS trying it. 1/2 hr with angle grinder and cutting wheel.
Very informative
Thanks A Z; I am glad the video was helpful, Thanks for watching.
Use an open ended spanner on the Hex Nut to keep it from turning.
Thanks for the suggestion. Perhaps if I had 3 hands.
Why? It stays quite loose on the screw shank, and is super-easy to tighten by hand.
Needle nose pliers and the cube tool work in a pinch, but they will make you reevaluate your life choices. I can't see a situation where you would really need one "in a pinch."
Buy or rent the proper tool. They're so affordable now, there's no reason not to.
well said thank you
Thanks
Thanks to you for watching!
Many thanks..Perfect..
Glad you enjoyed the video, Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment
I recommend changing the speed to 1.5 for this slow talker. Great info though, more thorough than most. You actually made a pretty good case for the dice tool and the needle nose pliers! If this is a job that you're only doing once in a blue moon, one of those methods should cover it. Thanks.
I'm not just a slow talker.
Good info I have the same kit the needle nose pliers trick looks dangerous wear welding gloves and a full face safety shield !!
Thanks; Great advice. Thanks for watching my channel
huge help!
Thanks Pat; I am glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching it.
Those "dice" things are garbage. Nice demo video. (Floor jacks can fail. Use jack stands. 👍)
Thanks for your concern, you are very observant to notice the vehicle in the background is only being supported by a jack. Being that it has been 3 years or more I do not recall what I was doing to the car at that time. I do however assure you I never get under a car without it both being supported by a stand and a jack after a close call I had once. I was under a car being supported by 2 stands on the front frame rails of a front wheel drive car. Stupidly I did not set the E brake or block the rear wheels, furthermore the car had an oil leak, and the frame rails were wet. Complicating things my loyal German Shepherd crawled under there with me. Suddenly I noticed the car starting to slip on the stands because of the oil, I rolled out with the dog right behind me. We both got out just as the car came crashing down. I don't think my wife at the time cared much about me but would have been pissed if I killed the dog LOL. Thanks again, by all means don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035 I meant it only for a lookout for you & anyone else who might watch. Glad you and doggie were good in that mishap. I’ve been working on cars for over thirty years. I’ve heard a lot of bad stories over the years… to the point I have a phobia. But, it’s a fear that is a good one imo. My jack stands even have pins. I put wheels under the side rails too. Have a good one.
@@zigwil153 I meant no disrespect, your suggestion was well taken. Over the years it is easy to get a little careless, I have a few more years on you however, I opened my first shop in 1977. I am retired now and have a small shop at my home. I only work on friends and family vehicles these days as I will be 71 next month. My Beloved shepherd passed away this past September. Enjoyed our conversation.
@@richardspaulding5035 no disrespect taken at all. Same here.
Why don't you spin the bolt instead of the t handle
Thanks for the question Happy; The bolt / nut is only there to maintain contact between the end of the tool and the caliper piston. Every 1/2 turn or so of the handle causes the tool to separate a little from the piston. This is because the piston threads back into the caliper a little faster than the pitch of the threaded rod in the tool will allow. By continually adjusting that bolt / nut you can maintain contact. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 thank you for your response, and beautiful dog,
So on a front caliper, one that does not need to be twisted down, can you use just the nut and wrench on it rather then the T handle?
That seemed to make life really easy
@@happytrails5342 Thanks; the dogs name is Hi Ho. I do not use this tool for calipers that don't require wind back in such as front calipers. If you check out this video th-cam.com/video/iE1lwU_yATs/w-d-xo.html at 13:30 you will see what I use for front calipers. It is part of a Snap-On puller set that I purchased off the Snap-on truck in the 1970s. It is not what the tool was intended for but it works great for that purpose. I have been using it in that manner for more than 40 years. I have enjoyed the opportunity to respond to your questions. My channel is still small enough that I try to respond to all my comments. By all means don't be a stranger.
Hello sir. We're selling a set of pneumatic Brake Caliper Wind Back Kit that can be sent to you for testing and making videos if you are interested.
Quite possibly, Please by all means send me more information.
@@richardspaulding5035 Could I have your mail?
@@kittoolv1334 Not yet. What is the name of your company and the product you want me to test?
TH-cam blocks my links.
@@kittoolv1334 purhaps there is a reason for that
Most people are not going to have it in a vice. Everyone please by the kit. Any other way is awful.
Thanks, yes, the only reason the caliper was in a vise was for demonstration purposes. It will most always be used on the car.
That squad tool is worthless.
I have used it but it takes much effort
Learn to use tools before demonstrating would be nice.
Thanks for the comment Fabian; However I think would much nicer if you could possibly elaborate as to how you feel the demonstration had failed. Thanks for watching.
@@richardspaulding5035 Ok, put an open end spanner on the hex on the piece that keeps coming loose as you turn the handle.
You turn the spanner anti clockwise while turning the handle clockwise at the same time.
It avoids all the stuffing around you did.It takes me about 5 sec to wind them in this way.
Good on you for making the video either way.On some calipers a angle grinder spanner works well too.
@@Hahehhwgajshah72726.. Thanks; Now I will be able to sleep tonight. Next time I use the kit I will most certainly try it your way. Thanks again, don't be a stranger.
@@richardspaulding5035 😂😂😂try it mate.Spanner anti clockwise, handle clock wise if it winds in clockwise.Cheers.
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