I just want to reiterate, I don’t believe this is the only issue causing problems. There have been so many reports of things with the ICCU and charge port doors that I can’t imagine this is the only thing causing problems. I’ll keep pressing and making sure your concerns are heard though.
It is definetely not what they are saying. 3/4 they blame it on 3rd party Apps and 99% of the people buying these IONIQ 5 in Germany are 70+ and they NEVER install 3rd party apps. Pure b...sh.t
I posted a lengthy description of our 12V drain issues with 2023 ioniq5 sel in the previous video/comments (saga still not resolved by the way). Bottom line, as you and others previously stated, Hyundai’s explanations don’t appear to apply to some of us, and it does not seem to be the only problem. We don’t use any 3rd party apps. We barely use the bluelink app and we charge the car pretty much daily the same way/time. Also, in addition to our car dying while plugged in at home, the car died twice while waiting for us to pick it up at the dealership’s parking lot without being plugged in or being used (besides some initial and unsuccessful diagnostic tests by the dealer). @The Ioniq Guy - as you and some stated, there is a rumor about issues involving ICCU assembly/high power fuse and/or charge port doors (and a recall in S. Korea?). Can this be verified?
Just went through this with my 2022 nine month old IONIQ5. After a few dealer visits due to dead 12V battery, the dealer advised that a new software update from Hyundai was just released to fix the problem. I have been Monitoring the 12v battery voltage for the last few days- seems to have fixed the problem/ the 12V battery is now being properly charged
My car has been in the dealer for a month already. They did say it was the ICCU, sadly they havent received the part they need to change. Very sad to have a nice car and it’s been there too long. Thanks for the updates.
Just had dead 12v battery from normal use. First noticed back trunk door wouldn't close. Manually closed it. Got into car, and saw screen flashing with emergency lights as well as 12v battery symbol. I needed to go into work, so I powered down the whole car. But now the car doors won't lock. Tried turning car back on, but it no longer turns on. Used a portable jumper to start up 12v & car. The car was able to move, and I could close and lock the door. When I came out from work later on, 12v battery was dead again. Oh, I don't use any 3rd party app, and rarely use bluelink to check car status.
Had 2 more dead 12V battery events this month: The first one happened when the Ioniq high-voltage battery SoC was at 15% and was plugged into the home charger (Tesla) waiting for the scheduled charge time. The second one happened a few days later when the high-voltage battery was at 37% and was again plugged into the home charger, waiting for the scheduled charge time. I don't use any third-party apps, and we rarely use the Bluelink app, so I don't believe Hyundai has 100% figured this one out. I really wish they would change the software to charge the 12V when the HV battery is below 35%. It seems 20% or even 15% should be manageable. Also, if it's plugged into a charger, it shouldn't matter what the SoC is.
Me too! First event on March 4 2023, battery at 15%. Second one a couple weeks ago. I'm now turning the car on every day so that the 12V battery gets topped off at 14V by the DC-DC converter.
@@AlexanderRodriguez-ni4kt That's not an issue, that's by design. Also, not the issue I'm having. The HV battery is not below 20% when the car is fully charged and connected to the charger. That's when it fails to charge the 12v battery on my car.
Hey Corbin, so I got my car back from this exact issue last Friday and I can confirm so far that I've had no issues in the last 10 days. Hyundai must have known a bit more about this a couple weeks ago when they sent the field tech back out to do some final testing. They ended up replacing the 12v battery, unplugging the AVN, and ran some diagnostics. I did reset my blue link password over a month ago as per their request and did not use the app until they told me to. Once they confirm their testing they called for me to pick up my car. It was out of my hands for 127 days and I'm very glad to have it back. I wish they could have figured it out sooner. There are other electrical system issues out there that are a little different than what I was experiencing but it's possible that back in November when I dropped off my car I just didn't get the notifications on the screens about them. I wish everyone out there with these issues good luck and I hope you get your cars fixed asap. Thanks for the great video!!
@@AeschylusShepherd you're telling me. It was mostly the dealership having no clue what to do and waiting for the Hyundai field tech get info from the engineers on what to do. I think around mid February, they were starting to get an idea of what's going on because they were being more active with everything. Changing blue link password, replacement of the 12v battery (again) and more diagnostics. Glad it's back though!
The only issue I had with the 12v battery was a 3rd party carplay device I had plugged into the USB port. I got it for wireless android auto, and it also let me watch videos on the right display from hulu, Netflix, etc while charging. Now I only leave it plugged in while I'm in or around the car. Thankfully I took your advice and had a small 12v jump pack. Thanks.
@@ricardohd1991 At times for me the SoC is always dropping, there is a constant bleed of the high powered battery, I can see a 1-2% drop each day on my IONIQ 5. Other days 0% change. It's very strange and not consistent.
When I first got my car it did drain but I have heard that new cars may have batteries that have been partially drained and maybe my Theft Patrol anti theft could have been the culprit. Wasn’t there a software upgrade to address this issue? Never had any issues since.
It does exactly that. The problem is, if it has to do it 10 times in a row (without a car start) it just assumes the 12V battery is faulty. The system is implemented naively, and the telematics power design is bad. The “apps are causing it” thing is true- that’s the proximate cause. The root cause is bad implementation.
1. This is just confirming what i’ve been reporting on my channel for the last 6 months. In the UK Octopus Go faster tariff which used a beta version of the Hyundai/Kia API to request status from the car was the main culprit (this method has been suspended for a few weeks now) 2. If the cars SOC falls below 20% it will not charge 12v battery by design. 3. Certain types of 3rd party dash cam that do not switch off can also cause it & other devices can also create a parasitic 12v drain. Once the 12v has been fully drained just 1 time it has been permanently damaged and will need replacing.
I have been driving my IQ5 for some more than a year now, partly in very cold conditions, and I have used the Bluelink almost daily. Km is now 23.000 and no issues.
We had several warnings about the 12v battery, but it seemed to resolve itself on our 2700 mile trip. BUT, we parked our car in Two Harbors, MN, turned it off, and it would not start. We ended up buying and installing a new battery ourselves. Have talked to Hyundai and are hopeful they will send us reimbursement for the battery. But, NO ONE seems to know anything about why it happens, even the EV tech at our dealer. My husband has sent a request to Hyundai Technology to see if they can give more insight. This video is VERY helpful - thanks.
Hello. I got the same problem today. Can't do anything. Tried charging the 12v battery today and it seems to help. Now I can start it 😀. But must clear at the workshop. But thank you very much for a super channel, you are doing well👍
i think there is no need to use bluelink app at all. We all keep forgeting cars 10 years ago there was no apps !!!!!!!!!!! unlock the car start it and drive .
@@triplextriplexxx8225 So state of charge doesn't matter to you? My charger charges exces solar into the car but in the evening i check if it's enough or not to get to my next destination. If not i force charging. Maybe for people who drive every day the same short distance. But for me its sometimes 200km and the next day 40km. And charging exces solar doesn't cost me. If I inject it first into the grid i get 5 cent/kWh. When I charge from the grid it cost 45 cent/kWh. So thats 1-2 times a day
We just returned from a 18 trip out of the country. Our 22 Limited AWD started right up with no issues. I ended up needing the battery jump booster purchased for the IO5 on our Jeep. I'm happy to hear Hyundai is working to fix any major bugs and glitches. We love our IO5 and appreciate Corbin being a go between with Hyundai as not of the dealership service departments are learning on the fly.
My Kia EV6 12V battery eventually failed in the sub -20°F weather I live in. I put in a NAPA AGM and it seems to be doing well. I'm still trying to get my old battery in for warranty replacement.......I will then put it back in my car next Winter to see how it handles the Artic weather here....lol
Thanks for sharing the info. I'm having a hard time understanding this explanation, though-a smartphone makes far more than 5000 transmissions a day, and the vast majority of energy used goes to the screen. Why would waking the eGMP computer to do something similar be any different? And why would the energy draw be significantly higher? All the data should be stored in the inboard computers via CANBUS, right? It's not like the car needs to power up a drivetrain motor to read data; it's already got that data, stored from when it was last used. Then, even if we ignore all that, the traction battery is supposed to charge the 12v automatically. Even if these requests are somehow burning through the 12v, the traction battery should keep it charged. So, at minimum, why is the traction battery failing to keep up the 12v? And why would (even 5000 Tx) burn down the 12v? Just... doesn't make sense to me.
Justin im totally with you. The "solution" is just crippling there Bluelink service they themselves offer. I have a VW ID as well and that one has an option in the app to increase the app usage capability by reducing the range by a bit. This just means the 12v battery is being recharged more often. Limiting the amount of interactions with the car is just a stupid idea. Just charge there 12v battery every time it's getting low. They car have a gigantic hv battery to do that from. Also the 20 interactions a day is a lie. At least when using it from Europe you can still do over 200 a day and I know because I do.
You can try it yourself. Connect an ampere meter to your 12V Battery, close the car amd wait like 30 minutes to let the whole car go to, lets say, sleep mode. Than just do a status update on Bluelink and watch how many amps you draw from your 12V... It was something like 25-30A for quite some time if i remeber right😅 My ioniq 5 looses some days around 4% SOC in about 8h due to recharging the 12V battery even if i do nothing on bluelink.
Once you hand over your credentials to a 3rd party app, it can pass that info on to a cloud server and ping your car forever even if your phone is turned off. Not saying this is the problem in every case but it does make some sense.
It's not the transmission using power, it is probably that all the many constant requests are keeping the car from sleeping and going into a 12v battery care/charge mode. Sort of like humans, if the car can't get some "sleep" periods where the car can do some hidden maintenance of things, it gets run down.. Still, it seems odd that the car can't just charge the 12v battery at ANY time..? especially, I assume the car needs the contactors engaged (eg car awake) so the HV can power the DC:DC converter to charge the 12v... maybe some Hyundai programming design, as to when they charged the 12v, only while sleeping? or, maybe while awake, the DC:DC converter is busy powering the car systems only, instead of charging the battery?
Thank you. My wife couldn't start her car today. She waited about 20-30 minutes and tried starting the car again and it started. The service department said they didn't know what was happening and suggested we bring it in. We only use the Hyundai app to communicate with the car and at a minimum. She drove about 60 miles without issue and the car seems fine now.
I had the 12V battery issue on my 2022 EV6 at 2200 miles, and I use NO external apps, and none with the power company (I don't home charge). I am sure there is something else. They replaced the ICCU and a major fuse. So far, so good after repair.
I had the same issue with my 2021 Ioniq. I just replaced the battery a couple days ago. I hope the issue doesn’t eventually damage this new battery in less than three years too!
Hello from Israel, I am the owner of an Ionik 5 from 2023 and I really enjoy your channel and learn a lot about the car from it, I wanted to tell you that I saw a film by an Israeli electrical engineer who is also the owner of an Ionik 5 who researched the problem of dehydration in the 12 volt battery and connected test equipment to the car and discovered that the drive battery charged at less than 20% so it does not charge the 12 volt battery,
Thank you very much for this very informational video! My hope is that someone will come out very soon with the list of the offending 3rd party apps so that we can against having our 12v batteries fully drained. Luckily, we haven’t experienced this issue yet on our 2023 Ioniq5 Limited yet.
Thank you for this video! I've been having this 12v issue since November 2022 and have been in and out of the dealership. In the beginning of February, the dealership told me that a Hyundai engineer is coming out to investigate and that mine was not the only Ioniq 5 with this issue at their shop. Unfortunately, since I have been stranded several times with this car I have lost all confidence in it so I chose to go the lemon law route (just this car I'm sure not all have encountered this issue). After about 6 weeks, Hyundai approved my lemon law claim and re-purchased it. I plan on buying a Kona EV now since I have had it as a loaner car and fulfills my needs. Turns out I didn't really need a bigger car.
Thanks for this. I"ve never had an issue but I don't use bluelink much and don't let the car go below 20. Looking forward to your review of the hotrod KIA.
I had my first 12v issue today after 10 months of ownership. The car was plugged in to charge on the EVSE at around 60% this morning and this afternoon it failed to start. Mine is a 2022 Australian model which was not equipped with bluelink so that blows away Hyundai's theory as the sole cause
The vehicle computer should be monitoring the 12 volt battery voltage and when it gets low it should begin to recharge no matter if the car is on or off regardless of what is pulling voltage from the 12 volt battery. Keep a 12 volt mini battery jumper on board and you can at least get the car to start with a jump at the 12 volt battery. I have owned my 2022 EV6 for 11 months now and so far no problems, it just seems like an issue with software monitoring of the 12 volt battery state of charge.
Thank you, this makes sense, and if it’s THE issue, we should see the battery issue decrease shortly we hope. Mine is fine for almost a year, I check once a month but also no 3rd party or utility apps. I hope it works out for others.
Seems this isn't quite solved just yet... I just had a dead 12V on a brand new (less than 2 months old) 2024 European (Scandinavian?) Ioniq 5. The main battery was at 79%, so it wasn't due to the main battery being below 20%. And the car was even plugged into a level 2 charger.
Thanks for being a great customer advocate. Hyundai should be more investing in communication. Actually this is a strength of the bigEV company. Openness would improve market share.
Great Video and thanks for the update......bring a good understanding of the issue.....I my self have a 2022 limited for a year(27000 miles) and have never experienced this ....but I also don't use the bluelink very often once or twice a month if that. Keep up neither the great videos and information
Regarding the Ioniq 5N, at page 1-12 of the "Introduction/Getting started" manual, I read: "If you do not use the vehicle for a long time, charge the vehicle at least once every three months to prevent both the high voltage and the 12 V battery from fully discharging. When the battery level has low level, immediately charge the vehicle." Then I could charge the vehicle only 4 times in one year.
I'm in the UK with a 2022 Ioniq 5 long range. In freezing conditions yesterday (Dec 2) the car was completely dead. The recovery guy I called said the 12V battery was at 4V. He boosted it, the car came back to life and is fine today.
hi, after owning the Hyundai Ionic 5 car for 3 years now, I had the first 12v battery issue today. The car was on charge and had completed for 80% as usual. Today when I wanted to start\power on the car using the fob it did not work. It was dead. Had to call AA for help. He came and jump started the car using his battery kit. He said the 12v battery was drained. Then he told to drive the car for an hour so that the 12v battery is charged. It looks ok now. The car main battery was at 80% though. Such an expensive car but not sure why Hyundai chose to put cheap quality 12v lead battery. Why cant they put a permanent fix to it. Very disappointed and nervous if it happens again.
Thanks for this video. A couple of months ago I had a major 9V issue with my AWD Ioniq 5. The battery died multiple times and had to give it a jump to get it to the dealer. They kept it for a week and ultimately replaced the battery saying it was a "bad one." So far there have not been further issues (knock on wood) but I have changed my daily practices. I always unplug and and all items from the USB ports when powering down the car. Secondly, and maybe related but I don't know, is a fairly annoying charge port door issue. Every few weeks I'll arrive home and go to charge the car but cannot open the port. Voice command, key fob, significant heavy pushing...nothing. I've learned that if I leave it and come back in the morning (or after a while) I can then magically open the door easily. It's happened about 6 times since I've had the car (November 22). I've mentioned it to the dealer but haven't received any helpful info.
My EV6 is going on 2 years old in Feburary (posted January). Never had a 12V problem until this past Weekend. Charged the main battery to 100% in case I needed to use VTL. We just had a storm blow through with sub-Zero temps. Took car out on Saturday.. drove it down to around 75% charge... did NOT plug back into my home L1 charger. Monday night (it was a 3-day weekend) I went out to top it off (to 80%) and realized it was dead. 12V battery was down to 6.6V. Attached a charger to it and car immediately came back to life. Car was not attached to a charger that may have been interrogating it for charge info. My simple portable home charger doesn't have any fancy features like an off-peak charge timer. I'm not aware of any other mobile Apps I've installed that would be connecting to the car. This seems to me to simply be a case of the EV6 not recharging the battery fully while it was running.. definitely not recharging it from the main pack while it was idle.. and the battery failing in the cold (-7°F early this morning). I took it to work today after it recharged (main and 12V) overnight. I'm hoping I don't need to stand around in the cold waiting for someone to jump me. BTW.. I've got a charger in the car which would easily allow me to power up the 12V from the Main battery if I just plug it into the VTL or the in-cabin inverter.. the problem is, all the systems that control these features are powered by the 12V. So you could recharge your own 12V while away from home,.. if ONLY the 12V was charged. :-/
Hi. Thanks for the info. We have the Same problem. No evidence of 3rd party apps. Use Bluelink but only occasionally. One prob we have is that there is no way to open the charge port door (even doing the stuff recommended). So we are kind of goosed for the time being.
Thanks for sharing this information. I have had the car over a year now and luckily the 12V battery did not die on me. I have had a lot of bluelink issues though. I hope Hyundai improves the reliability of bluelink communications. Could you also ask Hyundai why Ioniq 5 does not charge at Tesla Superchargers with the new Magic Dock?
It isn't just Hyundai having problems with V3 Superchargers. All the Stellantis brands, MG, Honda and Dacia also have problems. The list of cars that work is probably shorter than those that don't.
Because Hyundai and Tesla have not reached an agreement. Only announced brand/model can use the magic dock but expect an announcement this year from Hyundai.
@TheIoniqGuy I own a 2023 KIA EV-6 GT-Line AWD. Tried googling if this issue exists with the EV-6 but cannot find anything on it. Would you happen to know? Also, I use a CarPlay adapter to be able to use CarPlay wirelessly. I leave it plugged in the USB port when car is not in use. Not sure if this is smart. Anyways, totally enjoy your videos … and these videos are a big reason why I pulled the trigger on an EV. Keep up the great work. Much appreciated.
I got my Ioniq5 in May 2023. This week (Sept 23) I had my first 12v failure 🙄 I rarely use Bluelink to do stuff like lock the car, but I had heard there was maybe an issue with the charging port flap weirdly draining the batteries.
IONIQ 6 LTD dead this morning. already had the ICCU check. Don't think it's extral apps connected through Bluelink because I don't believe I have added any of these. Don't see anywhere to check though in the app. Going to jump start it and see if that gets me going but I fear this problem will continue.
I recently leased a 2024 ioniq5 and parked it for two days. The first day out, the car wouldn't get into drive or reverse to let me drive and the battery light was on. The car was towed to the dealer. They test-drove it over 20 miles and did diagnostic tests The service dept. thought the Bluelink had been trying to upload a lot of updates while I was parked and to call them whenever the car asks to download another update. When I drove the car the next day, the message appeared again to download updates, but the dealership was closed because it was a weekend. I pressed okay and parked the car. All was good the next day after parking it overnight. Three days later, it happened again after I had been parked while running errands. The car wouldn't start with the same battery indicator light on. There had been no request for a Bluelink update this time. I was able to start the car about 6 minutes later. As of this post, I have had the car for two weeks, and I am concerned about the reliability of this vehicle.
Same issue with my kona EV and 12v battery after 25,000 miles. Apparently a common issue, and a dangerous one. Happend to me on side of road with a flat tire. Just thankful it wasn’t a “smart motorway” because no lights there is a death wish
I have the 23 EV6 (love it). Correct me if I'm incorrect, but I understand that the 12V batt does not charge unless the car is ON. With all this flak about it, I'm getting a monitor to watch it. Thanks for the vid!
Tonight we had our second 12v battery drain issue. We used the car just yesterday and returned home tonight (with another car) to a dead 12v. The first time this happened, we had to jump the car and move it out of our garage to be towed. Although we would have liked to have simply jumped the battery and allowed the traction battery to charge the 12v, it sat "running" in the driveway and we received a red error message that the 12v battery was discharged and we had to pull over to safety just before it completely shut off again. I am not going to risk driving the vehicle and having to suddenly pull over. When the dealership addressed the issue the first time, they said they ran some updates and charged the battery. Less than two months later, here we are again with the car about to be towed. The dealership report says "VCMS Upgrade," "VCU Update," and "Performed updates as required for fault code C182C000, C182B00, U130F87."
I have a 2017 original Ioniq owned from new and have needed 4 batteries under warranty? This car (here in Norway) does not have Bluelink but still drained. How I got round the problem over the last 18 months is I leave the car in my secure garage unlocked and have never had this problem since. I believe the battery problem is something to do with either central locking or folding mirror systems. A tip for the Ioniq 5 owners is never leave the car for an extended period with less than 20% charge in the traction battery to allow the auxiliary battery to be kept topped-up.
i’m a technician at hyundai and there’s this certain ioniq 5 that’s i’m currently working on. The customer states that the 12 volt battery keeps having issues after having it replaced, also that they got a warning that it was low while driving. There are no iccu codes, they even had their iccu update which is a recall. i performed a parasitic draw test and have gotten no excessive draw. we have let it sit in our lot for 4 days now and we have had no issues with the battery being dead although the first time i pulled it in it was dead. i wonder if blue link could be the issue.
This just happened to me last week. I have an IONIQ 5 with 46K miles, and was doing 90% of my charging using public Electrify America stations because I had the 2-year free charging deal that came with the car. This expired on 7/15/24, so I've been using my level 2 home charger 100% of the time since. Last Tuesday I was out of town taking care of a 2-year old grandson for the day, and got in the car with him and it was dead. I called my home Hyundai service department and they had no clue. Needless to say I freaked. Managed to get it jumped and drove directly to the local Hyundai dealer to ask them, and they had no clue either. Made it home, and then bought a new battery the next day. I'm wondering if the fact that I started using the home charger on a daily basis - with its BlueLink connection - is the reason that all of a sudden this happened. Any insights? This whole thing is SO messed up - I instantly have no confidence in my car being reliable.
Have had my I5 since April 2022 (and 26,000miles) and was 12v battery problem free until today. Now I'm waiting for AAA. Hope they know what to do. The limiting of BlueLink was problematic last weekend on a road trip to Las Cruces. No warning was given that I had a limited number of checks. There is very little charging infrastructure in Las Cruces so we were monitoring when we had enough charge to go anywhere. Spoiler alert. We had to wait until Monday to leave bc the ONLY fast charger is behind locked gates of a Hyundai dealership (even tho you have to pay), so it was unavailable after hours and on Sunday.
I just had my first dead battery issue today. Plugged in my car which was at 19%. When I came out to the garage I noticed it was not charging and the 12V battery was dead. Note, when I wnet to plug it in there must have been enough battery power to unlock the plug-in lid but then the car went dead. I do not use Hyundai BlueLink.
Bought a like new used EV6 two months ago. Suddenly this week the dreaded 12v issues. It all started after I used the Kia app to make sure my car was locked. It’s died 5 times since. Replaced battery today but seems to still be draining, tho not to death. I don’t know what Bluelink even is. I’ve deleted the Kia app and am doing all the other things suggested on forums. Didn’t do anything with the last battery, but maybe the new battery will solve it. I was keeping windows open and key in the car in my garage so I def stopped those. Heard to lock also so no unlock alerts being sent.
When you want the answer to a problem a car is having you don’t go to that car companies PR department. I have a Kia and have had to replace the 12 V battery before it’s even a year old. The only time I ever use the app is to set up a charge. I have no other outside apps contacting my car. Our electric utility asked me if I would take part in a survey where they would check to see when I was charging, my car, I opted out of that because of this reason.
My 2022 IONIQ 5 is in the shop right now for this issue. They said my 12v battery is fried and needs to be replaced. They claim that they are not aware of the issue and need to replace the battery before they can diagnose the cause of the issue. Since my 12v battery first died I have had various electrical issues in the car.
Our brand new 2023 Ioniq 6 SEL (3200mi) had a complete 12 v battery discharge today for no discernable reason. We drove a long distance three days ago, have driven shorter distances since every day. We have not used Blue link yet, know of no lights left on or failure to shut down the electronics completely. We called roadside assistance and got a jump and we'll put it on a trickle charger tonight. We are very concerned about this and we're grateful to learn that it's been happening to other owners and that Hyundai is finally responding. We'll try to work through our local dealership to get the issue solved.
Thank you! I have noticed my battery charging light on the dash operating several times per week and have not had any issues with my 12v battery on my 2023 Ioniq 5 SEL. I am looking forward to your working on the charging issues with the Tesla Superchargers. I suspect you will be the first to get a response and proposed fix from Hyundai. Again, thanks!
@@TheIoniqGuy Thanks! I ran across an article in a British e-pub (Electrifying?) implying that the European Tesla 150 kW Magic Dock chargers work with the HI5, but not the 250 kW chargers. That may be interesting.
I have a 2021 hyundai sonata hybrid limited with a solar roof, and have been experiencing the same random dead 12v battery issue. I have no third party apps, and I use bluelink maybe twice a week. Thing is, my car is literally sitting out in the sun 90% of the time because I work at home, but I still experience dead battery issues maybe once every 2-3 weeeks. It just seems to be completely random. The solar panel should also asisst in charging the battery, so it has to be another issue.
I've got a 2022 Sonata Limited hybrid w/solar panel, and I've have the exact same issue. Like you, it's been random. Pushing the 12 volt reset switch doesn't resolve the problem, However, I can jump start it using the procedure set down in the manual. The dealership made a cursery inspection and couldn't locate the problem. It made an appointment for me for October 10! Given the multiple other electrical issues with this car (like the display settings returning to their defaults when the car is turned off, the heating/ac turning off, the "miles since last refueling" data resetting to 0, etc), it's always a crapshoot what will happen when I try to use it. I also have metastatic cancer and a severe heart problem, so I absolutely need a reliable vehicle to get to chemo or to cardiac procedure appointments. This car has done this since the week after I drove it away from the dealership as a new vehicle and the dealership has simply dismissed my complaints. I will be pursuing the "lemon law" statute procedure in my state. I don't use BlueLink at all - in fact, I disabled it for a time to see if it made a difference - nada.
I have a 2022 Ioniq 5 AWD with the ICCU recall done and a 2 month old battery that dies if the car sits for more than 2 days. Dealer says nothing is wrong and I will figure this out myself I guess. The metal key opens the door and I have a little 12v battery jumper. Car starts right up with that and leaving the car on charges the battery. These 12v batteries can only take so many of these dead events. Going to get a cigar lighter voltmeter to know when to charge the battery. Have noticed the car charges the battery when a v2l dongle is plugged in. FYI. Considering an agm battery and will be canceling the bluelink apps.
H^ May 22 //ev6 GT line, Currently at the Service guys, they are doing further tests. We keep getting the "Low 12v battery " warning and the battery tests as fully charged!!
Bought the 2023 ioniq5 in September 2023. It is now April 22, 2024. The car has shut down four times during that seven month period 😅because the 12 volt battery has drained down, shutting off the car completely. The most recent occurrence was yesterday. After the first three occurrences requiring roadside-assistance visits from CAA. After the third time, I bought a handheld 12 volt battery booster (similar to the type used by CAA tow trucks) and used it yesterday to successfully restart the car. Today the vehicle😅 is at the dealership being serviced for a Hyundai-issued security recall. The car was serviced by the dealership in january after the second time it happened and was kept there for three days because they had to order a “special” part which they installed and then returned the vehicle to us. There were no further battery drains until about a month later. When I took it in today I reported that this was the fourth such occurrence. (Sigh…)
I've had my EV6 back from the dealer for over a month now. it's been in to them 3 times with the 12volt battey draining. All they did was to disable the mobile phone link in the car. Since this was done I have had no issues. I'm taking it in for it's first service tomorrow (1 year after purchase) and have asked them to fix the problem as I have not been able to use the Kia connect app at all. I'm not confident they will be able to fix it.
I have had dead 12v battery several times after long trips with multiple charging stops in cold weather (norway). Seems to happen. When I arrive home with less than 20% charge and leave the car notbcharging over night. The next morning the 12v is completely dead (like 5v). Then I have to remove it and charge it because its so low that the boost type charges don't work. Super frustrating.
Have a 2024 Kona and dead battery this morning after car sitting approximately 8 days. Had not been an issue before. I loaded Apple CarPlay and given your explanation, now wonder if my Apple apps could be demanding battery in excess. I will delete CarPlay (which is not needed) and see if I have this again.
This is the 7th time we have had dead 12v battery issues in the 6 months we've owned our new Ionic 5. Each time the 12 v battery is completely drained, requiring us to recharge tge battery before it will start. We have had the battery replaced once so far. There appears to be nothing we can do to prevent this from happening. In earlier cases, the car had not been started for a few days only to find the car completely dead. This last time, it was literally just hours. It's not being towed to the dealership for repair. We are super frustrated since we are a 1-car household. We are hoping to get this resolved or we will pursue a buyback based on tge lemon laws.
I’ve used Optiwatt on my Tesla S Plaid without incident. Although I was never able to sync the app to my 22 SEL Ioniq5, I wouldn’t rule out the repeated background attempts to synch with the that caused my 12v phantom draw.
I've been locked out of my hyundai sonata 2020 several times. Key fab dead can't get in car, have to hit restart battery button inside once you get in....not easy to remove outside key lock cover...stuck if you can't. I even replaced battery in fab today when it happened ...nothing
12v battery drain started for me this past week, and it came out of nowhere. I’ve had to jump start the car multiple times since. Hoping to get into Hyundai this coming week. It’s really frustrating.
This unbelievable it happen to me a couple days ago. The battery shouldn’t die! I never use bluelink and I came out to a dead car. I had to jump it and it’s now ok but this should be happening for an expensive car like this! I have all the updates
Yep! Dead 12 V battery after doing a 100% charge overnight at a public ChargePoint station. How can that be? The car is less than 2 years old. The main battery was at ~ 15% (guessing). I don't use BlueLink more than a few times per day. The question I have is whether I need to replace or just jump start it?
THANKS, but this has just happened to us so the mitigation has not worked. The worst thing is that you can’t open the door to main battery charger. We had 10% left on that battery and now the recovery person has charged the battery and I could plug the car in, it seems to be charging the 12vbatttery
I have had this 3 x in one week on the EV6. I don’t have any of those apps. I just gave the Kia connect app. Which is the same as the Hyundai one I believe. I had heard that the app can cause the issue by polling the car.
From my own experience using a device through the OBD port, this is plausible, but IMHO it's highlighting a bug in the BMS where the BMS occassionally fails to kick in to charge the 12V. Obviously the quicker the battery drains, the more frequently the 12V is needed to charge from the traction battery, and the more likely it is to hit the fail-to-charge bug. I had a device (OVMS - I'm implementing the Ioniq 5 link) that used to continually poll the ECU for various states (doors, car on etc), which would cause the battery to drain in 3-4 hours. Once I stopped doing that it lasts considerably longer (I now hold back on requesting the values by monitoring the 12V line for quick changes / charge events before doing any polling) . So yeah, this seems likely the problem that reveals the issue, but I believe there are better ways of handling it in firmware. (I think they don't retry actions over the CAN bus often enough).
I guess part of the problem is we (well at least me) has no idea what their battery charging strategy is. I see the light go on my dash but have no idea why it went on at that moment. My 12v likes to hang out at about 82%, and I have not had any battery issues. I question why I never see it up close to 100% though. I would have thought anytime you had the car on it would be charging the 12v up to full capacity. The 12v is tiny compared to the traction battery so I don't get what is going on. Toyota had a similar issue with the 12v battery in my 2002 Prius. The fix for both that and this would be to have a manual switch that you could connect the traction battery to the 12v when it was dead. This while not fixing the problem would basically make it almost a non-issue as you could just unlock the car with the metal key and hit that switch and be on your way.
this is looks like true. BUT! But I think that they do not have adequate measurement for battery current charge cause if they had, - they would move power from the main battery to 12v. But they are not doing that. Meaning it not perfect design. Hopefully they will do "recall" and will install some more sensors or do some other things. I noticed another day, - that I didn't have anymore bluelink requests. I thought it was weird. THat was the only day that I left my car charging on 30Amp charger (22m/h) and I needed to know when it's gonna reach 80 (it was set to 100 and to change 100 to 80 is the pain).
I had my 12v fail for the first time on 3/29/2023. That night was only the 2nd time I've ever left the car overnight with a low SOC (11%). It was dead the next morning. I can jump the car, but when even hooked up the 12v to a battery tender, it won't hold the charge. Seems completely dead. Going to the dealer tomorrow, so we'll see what they say.
Hello. Hyundai bought my car back after ongoing 12 volt battery issues. Duke energy offers a monthly credit for off peak charging. I took advantage of that. Now, it seems, that was the reason for my issues.
My 2015 Kia Soul EV without Bluelink had a dead 12V battery and luckily I was stranded in front of my house. I also used to own a 2016 Kia Soul EV without this issue and I now own a 2022 Hyunda Kona EV and it's been fine. For my Kona EV, once in a while, through the yellow light in front of the Hyundai emblem, I see that the 12V battery is being charged by the high voltage battery automatically - does the Ioniq5 have this feature?
I have a 2023 Ionic 5 with 17000 miles on it. About a month ago I took it to the dealer because of the 12 volt battery problem. They did the latest update on about August 2024 and checked my battery as good. Today I was to go to a meeting and my car battery was dead. I can drive it if I plug a second jumper battery in under the hood and took it to the dealer. The tech said they have four cars there with the same problem right now. I don't think I have any software on my phone that would interact with the car. My solution is to keep a second battery charged and with me in case I can't start the car.
My Ioniq 5 has just 30k miles and battery was dead on Friday. I never let it go under 20% charge but I had returned from a 2 week vacation a week before. But it started for 5 days after returning. Took it to the dealership today and they replaced the battery. No idea if the 2 weeks of no use impacted this
I have a 2009 Hyundai Genisis bought in 2012. It worked fine until 2019 when I hadn't driven it for 5 days at the lake; a boost from a neighbor started it immediately. Recently it has been getting much worse. I have a trickle charger which I plug in all the time when I'm home. I can't make two stops now while shopping without it dying. The last one, I was gone from the car for one-half hour. My brother-in-law said he had a similar problem with a different make and he found it was the fuse that was the problem. I have another garage appointment on Novemer 1 and hopefully they can check out the fuses. I'm always told that my battery is fine and also my alternator. Any suggestions on the fuse situation?
i had this issue. i think whats happening is after 2 yrs long story short, just buy a new battery. the large battery always feeds electricity in the small battery so it always tests good . but its not good . i changed my battery , spent my $250 for the best battery at oreilly , and installed it myself as they wont assist w electric/hybrid cars. so if your having this issue. buy a new battery asap and be done!
Just had issue twice now. First time opened door to get jacket and could no longer close it. Two days later opened car, started it, it demanded to shut down due to 12V battery. Can’t even lock car on public street now. Front door can be locked but others can’t. Completely irresponsible.
Well bluelink let’s me know at least six times a day that the car is unlocked. Car resides in my attached garage and no need to lock it. (Covered in other forum threads. On iphone there is no way to disable that specific message)
Plus ionic uses cheap batteries, for a relatively expensive vehicle they should use a good lithium ion 12 volt battery. We had a similar issue with the battery in our Kia Nero plugin they replaced it on warranty. I have an EV6 and am careful to use the utility mode if I am sitting in the car listening to music or whatever.
I just want to reiterate, I don’t believe this is the only issue causing problems. There have been so many reports of things with the ICCU and charge port doors that I can’t imagine this is the only thing causing problems. I’ll keep pressing and making sure your concerns are heard though.
It is definetely not what they are saying. 3/4 they blame it on 3rd party Apps and 99% of the people buying these IONIQ 5 in Germany are 70+ and they NEVER install 3rd party apps. Pure b...sh.t
I posted a lengthy description of our 12V drain issues with 2023 ioniq5 sel in the previous video/comments (saga still not resolved by the way). Bottom line, as you and others previously stated, Hyundai’s explanations don’t appear to apply to some of us, and it does not seem to be the only problem. We don’t use any 3rd party apps. We barely use the bluelink app and we charge the car pretty much daily the same way/time. Also, in addition to our car dying while plugged in at home, the car died twice while waiting for us to pick it up at the dealership’s parking lot without being plugged in or being used (besides some initial and unsuccessful diagnostic tests by the dealer). @The Ioniq Guy - as you and some stated, there is a rumor about issues involving ICCU assembly/high power fuse and/or charge port doors (and a recall in S. Korea?). Can this be verified?
Just went through this with my 2022 nine month old IONIQ5. After a few dealer visits due to dead 12V battery, the dealer advised that a new software update from Hyundai was just released to fix the problem. I have been
Monitoring the 12v battery voltage for the last few days- seems to have fixed the problem/ the 12V battery is now being properly charged
My car has been in the dealer for a month already. They did say it was the ICCU, sadly they havent received the part they need to change. Very sad to have a nice car and it’s been there too long. Thanks for the updates.
uninstall the bluelink and see if it resolves (divide & conquer) I dont have an ioniq5... im sorry these issues are there as i was planning to buy it
Just had dead 12v battery from normal use. First noticed back trunk door wouldn't close. Manually closed it. Got into car, and saw screen flashing with emergency lights as well as 12v battery symbol. I needed to go into work, so I powered down the whole car. But now the car doors won't lock. Tried turning car back on, but it no longer turns on. Used a portable jumper to start up 12v & car. The car was able to move, and I could close and lock the door. When I came out from work later on, 12v battery was dead again. Oh, I don't use any 3rd party app, and rarely use bluelink to check car status.
Had 2 more dead 12V battery events this month: The first one happened when the Ioniq high-voltage battery SoC was at 15% and was plugged into the home charger (Tesla) waiting for the scheduled charge time. The second one happened a few days later when the high-voltage battery was at 37% and was again plugged into the home charger, waiting for the scheduled charge time.
I don't use any third-party apps, and we rarely use the Bluelink app, so I don't believe Hyundai has 100% figured this one out. I really wish they would change the software to charge the 12V when the HV battery is below 35%. It seems 20% or even 15% should be manageable. Also, if it's plugged into a charger, it shouldn't matter what the SoC is.
Me too! First event on March 4 2023, battery at 15%. Second one a couple weeks ago. I'm now turning the car on every day so that the 12V battery gets topped off at 14V by the DC-DC converter.
@@masina9447 You still have this issue when charging? Mine dies within 18 hours of plugging it in to the charger.
The issue is in the programming, if the main battery is below 20% it will not charge the 12volt battery
@@AlexanderRodriguez-ni4kt That's not an issue, that's by design. Also, not the issue I'm having. The HV battery is not below 20% when the car is fully charged and connected to the charger. That's when it fails to charge the 12v battery on my car.
Hey Corbin, so I got my car back from this exact issue last Friday and I can confirm so far that I've had no issues in the last 10 days. Hyundai must have known a bit more about this a couple weeks ago when they sent the field tech back out to do some final testing. They ended up replacing the 12v battery, unplugging the AVN, and ran some diagnostics. I did reset my blue link password over a month ago as per their request and did not use the app until they told me to. Once they confirm their testing they called for me to pick up my car. It was out of my hands for 127 days and I'm very glad to have it back. I wish they could have figured it out sooner. There are other electrical system issues out there that are a little different than what I was experiencing but it's possible that back in November when I dropped off my car I just didn't get the notifications on the screens about them. I wish everyone out there with these issues good luck and I hope you get your cars fixed asap. Thanks for the great video!!
Over four months in the shop! That's insane. I'm very glad for you that you finally have your car back.
127 days? That's absolutely insane.
@@robin2821 ugh I know it's absurd and Hyundai won't talk to me since I have lawyers at the helm
@@AeschylusShepherd you're telling me. It was mostly the dealership having no clue what to do and waiting for the Hyundai field tech get info from the engineers on what to do. I think around mid February, they were starting to get an idea of what's going on because they were being more active with everything. Changing blue link password, replacement of the 12v battery (again) and more diagnostics. Glad it's back though!
The only issue I had with the 12v battery was a 3rd party carplay device I had plugged into the USB port. I got it for wireless android auto, and it also let me watch videos on the right display from hulu, Netflix, etc while charging. Now I only leave it plugged in while I'm in or around the car. Thankfully I took your advice and had a small 12v jump pack. Thanks.
Why doesn't the DC-DC converter just monitor the voltage and charge when voltage hits a low threshold? This doesn't seem that hard.
Then people will be mad for the random drop in range.
@@ricardohd1991 the ability to get in and drive your car seems more important to me.
@@ricardohd1991 At times for me the SoC is always dropping, there is a constant bleed of the high powered battery, I can see a 1-2% drop each day on my IONIQ 5. Other days 0% change. It's very strange and not consistent.
When I first got my car it did drain but I have heard that new cars may have batteries that have been partially drained and maybe my Theft Patrol anti theft could have been the culprit. Wasn’t there a software upgrade to address this issue? Never had any issues since.
It does exactly that. The problem is, if it has to do it 10 times in a row (without a car start) it just assumes the 12V battery is faulty.
The system is implemented naively, and the telematics power design is bad. The “apps are causing it” thing is true- that’s the proximate cause. The root cause is bad implementation.
1. This is just confirming what i’ve been reporting on my channel for the last 6 months. In the UK Octopus Go faster tariff which used a beta version of the Hyundai/Kia API to request status from the car was the main culprit (this method has been suspended for a few weeks now) 2. If the cars SOC falls below 20% it will not charge 12v battery by design. 3. Certain types of 3rd party dash cam that do not switch off can also cause it & other devices can also create a parasitic 12v drain. Once the 12v has been fully drained just 1 time it has been permanently damaged and will need replacing.
I have been driving my IQ5 for some more than a year now, partly in very cold conditions, and I have used the Bluelink almost daily. Km is now 23.000 and no issues.
We had several warnings about the 12v battery, but it seemed to resolve itself on our 2700 mile trip. BUT, we parked our car in Two Harbors, MN, turned it off, and it would not start. We ended up buying and installing a new battery ourselves. Have talked to Hyundai and are hopeful they will send us reimbursement for the battery. But, NO ONE seems to know anything about why it happens, even the EV tech at our dealer. My husband has sent a request to Hyundai Technology to see if they can give more insight. This video is VERY helpful - thanks.
Hello. I got the same problem today. Can't do anything. Tried charging the 12v battery today and it seems to help. Now I can start it 😀. But must clear at the workshop.
But thank you very much for a super channel, you are doing well👍
My ioniq already had the 12V issue... I don't use 3th party software. Just bluelink 1-2 times a day. So this can't be the only thing.
i think there is no need to use bluelink app at all. We all keep forgeting cars 10 years ago there was no apps !!!!!!!!!!! unlock the car start it and drive .
@@triplextriplexxx8225 So state of charge doesn't matter to you? My charger charges exces solar into the car but in the evening i check if it's enough or not to get to my next destination. If not i force charging. Maybe for people who drive every day the same short distance. But for me its sometimes 200km and the next day 40km. And charging exces solar doesn't cost me. If I inject it first into the grid i get 5 cent/kWh. When I charge from the grid it cost 45 cent/kWh. So thats 1-2 times a day
@@andyverbeken1527 for me price is always 6 cent and for me in the last 10 years all commutes i did were under 300km mostly 100km to 250km
Yes, it seems to be just an excuse by the OEM to avoid another billion $ vehicle recall to change to a more appropriate battery!
@@andyverbeken1527 for me price is always every night 4 cent max
We just returned from a 18 trip out of the country. Our 22 Limited AWD started right up with no issues. I ended up needing the battery jump booster purchased for the IO5 on our Jeep. I'm happy to hear Hyundai is working to fix any major bugs and glitches. We love our IO5 and appreciate Corbin being a go between with Hyundai as not of the dealership service departments are learning on the fly.
My Kia EV6 12V battery eventually failed in the sub -20°F weather I live in. I put in a NAPA AGM and it seems to be doing well. I'm still trying to get my old battery in for warranty replacement.......I will then put it back in my car next Winter to see how it handles the Artic weather here....lol
Thanks for sharing the info.
I'm having a hard time understanding this explanation, though-a smartphone makes far more than 5000 transmissions a day, and the vast majority of energy used goes to the screen. Why would waking the eGMP computer to do something similar be any different? And why would the energy draw be significantly higher? All the data should be stored in the inboard computers via CANBUS, right? It's not like the car needs to power up a drivetrain motor to read data; it's already got that data, stored from when it was last used.
Then, even if we ignore all that, the traction battery is supposed to charge the 12v automatically. Even if these requests are somehow burning through the 12v, the traction battery should keep it charged.
So, at minimum, why is the traction battery failing to keep up the 12v? And why would (even 5000 Tx) burn down the 12v?
Just... doesn't make sense to me.
I’m with you but as long as it’s preventing further 12V issues, I’m all for it.
Justin im totally with you. The "solution" is just crippling there Bluelink service they themselves offer. I have a VW ID as well and that one has an option in the app to increase the app usage capability by reducing the range by a bit. This just means the 12v battery is being recharged more often.
Limiting the amount of interactions with the car is just a stupid idea. Just charge there 12v battery every time it's getting low. They car have a gigantic hv battery to do that from.
Also the 20 interactions a day is a lie. At least when using it from Europe you can still do over 200 a day and I know because I do.
You can try it yourself. Connect an ampere meter to your 12V Battery, close the car amd wait like 30 minutes to let the whole car go to, lets say, sleep mode. Than just do a status update on Bluelink and watch how many amps you draw from your 12V...
It was something like 25-30A for quite some time if i remeber right😅
My ioniq 5 looses some days around 4% SOC in about 8h due to recharging the 12V battery even if i do nothing on bluelink.
Once you hand over your credentials to a 3rd party app, it can pass that info on to a cloud server and ping your car forever even if your phone is turned off. Not saying this is the problem in every case but it does make some sense.
It's not the transmission using power, it is probably that all the many constant requests are keeping the car from sleeping and going into a 12v battery care/charge mode.
Sort of like humans, if the car can't get some "sleep" periods where the car can do some hidden maintenance of things, it gets run down..
Still, it seems odd that the car can't just charge the 12v battery at ANY time..? especially, I assume the car needs the contactors engaged (eg car awake) so the HV can power the DC:DC converter to charge the 12v... maybe some Hyundai programming design, as to when they charged the 12v, only while sleeping? or, maybe while awake, the DC:DC converter is busy powering the car systems only, instead of charging the battery?
Thank you. My wife couldn't start her car today. She waited about 20-30 minutes and tried starting the car again and it started. The service department said they didn't know what was happening and suggested we bring it in. We only use the Hyundai app to communicate with the car and at a minimum. She drove about 60 miles without issue and the car seems fine now.
I had the 12V battery issue on my 2022 EV6 at 2200 miles, and I use NO external apps, and none with the power company (I don't home charge). I am sure there is something else. They replaced the ICCU and a major fuse. So far, so good after repair.
I had the same issue with my 2021 Ioniq. I just replaced the battery a couple days ago. I hope the issue doesn’t eventually damage this new battery in less than three years too!
Hello from Israel, I am the owner of an Ionik 5 from 2023 and I really enjoy your channel and learn a lot about the car from it, I wanted to tell you that I saw a film by an Israeli electrical engineer who is also the owner of an Ionik 5 who researched the problem of dehydration in the 12 volt battery and connected test equipment to the car and discovered that the drive battery charged at less than 20% so it does not charge the 12 volt battery,
Nice catch.
Thank you very much for this very informational video! My hope is that someone will come out very soon with the list of the offending 3rd party apps so that we can against having our 12v batteries fully drained. Luckily, we haven’t experienced this issue yet on our 2023 Ioniq5 Limited yet.
Thank you for this video! I've been having this 12v issue since November 2022 and have been in and out of the dealership. In the beginning of February, the dealership told me that a Hyundai engineer is coming out to investigate and that mine was not the only Ioniq 5 with this issue at their shop. Unfortunately, since I have been stranded several times with this car I have lost all confidence in it so I chose to go the lemon law route (just this car I'm sure not all have encountered this issue). After about 6 weeks, Hyundai approved my lemon law claim and re-purchased it. I plan on buying a Kona EV now since I have had it as a loaner car and fulfills my needs. Turns out I didn't really need a bigger car.
DONT GET THE KONA EV. WE ARE HAVING EXACTLY THE SAME ISSUE NOW!!
Thanks for this. I"ve never had an issue but I don't use bluelink much and don't let the car go below 20. Looking forward to your review of the hotrod KIA.
I had my first 12v issue today after 10 months of ownership. The car was plugged in to charge on the EVSE at around 60% this morning and this afternoon it failed to start. Mine is a 2022 Australian model which was not equipped with bluelink so that blows away Hyundai's theory as the sole cause
My Australian delivered 23 Ioniq 5 just died today. Just had the recall done last week…
The vehicle computer should be monitoring the 12 volt battery voltage and when it gets low it should begin to recharge no matter if the car is on or off regardless of what is pulling voltage from the 12 volt battery. Keep a 12 volt mini battery jumper on board and you can at least get the car to start with a jump at the 12 volt battery. I have owned my 2022 EV6 for 11 months now and so far no problems, it just seems like an issue with software monitoring of the 12 volt battery state of charge.
Ioniq 5 N owner here. Same warning. Will not charge. Tested multiple charging stations. Scheduling service.
Thank you, this makes sense, and if it’s THE issue, we should see the battery issue decrease shortly we hope. Mine is fine for almost a year, I check once a month but also no 3rd party or utility apps. I hope it works out for others.
Seems this isn't quite solved just yet... I just had a dead 12V on a brand new (less than 2 months old) 2024 European (Scandinavian?) Ioniq 5. The main battery was at 79%, so it wasn't due to the main battery being below 20%. And the car was even plugged into a level 2 charger.
Thanks for being a great customer advocate. Hyundai should be more investing in communication. Actually this is a strength of the bigEV company. Openness would improve market share.
Great Video and thanks for the update......bring a good understanding of the issue.....I my self have a 2022 limited for a year(27000 miles) and have never experienced this ....but I also don't use the bluelink very often once or twice a month if that. Keep up neither the great videos and information
Regarding the Ioniq 5N, at page 1-12 of the "Introduction/Getting started" manual, I read: "If you do not use the vehicle for a long time, charge the vehicle at least once every three months to prevent both the high voltage and the 12 V battery from fully discharging. When the battery level has low level, immediately charge the vehicle." Then I could charge the vehicle only 4 times in one year.
I'm in the UK with a 2022 Ioniq 5 long range. In freezing conditions yesterday (Dec 2) the car was completely dead. The recovery guy I called said the 12V battery was at 4V. He boosted it, the car came back to life and is fine today.
You’re going to want to get the battery tested for damage as going to that low of a level likely killed it for long term use
hi, after owning the Hyundai Ionic 5 car for 3 years now, I had the first 12v battery issue today. The car was on charge and had completed for 80% as usual. Today when I wanted to start\power on the car using the fob it did not work. It was dead. Had to call AA for help. He came and jump started the car using his battery kit. He said the 12v battery was drained. Then he told to drive the car for an hour so that the 12v battery is charged. It looks ok now. The car main battery was at 80% though. Such an expensive car but not sure why Hyundai chose to put cheap quality 12v lead battery. Why cant they put a permanent fix to it. Very disappointed and nervous if it happens again.
So did you have to replace the 12 V battery or is it still staying charged?
Thanks for this video. A couple of months ago I had a major 9V issue with my AWD Ioniq 5. The battery died multiple times and had to give it a jump to get it to the dealer. They kept it for a week and ultimately replaced the battery saying it was a "bad one." So far there have not been further issues (knock on wood) but I have changed my daily practices. I always unplug and and all items from the USB ports when powering down the car.
Secondly, and maybe related but I don't know, is a fairly annoying charge port door issue. Every few weeks I'll arrive home and go to charge the car but cannot open the port. Voice command, key fob, significant heavy pushing...nothing. I've learned that if I leave it and come back in the morning (or after a while) I can then magically open the door easily. It's happened about 6 times since I've had the car (November 22). I've mentioned it to the dealer but haven't received any helpful info.
There is a manual charge port release that can grant access to the charging port. It’s in the car’s manual. Best wishes.
My EV6 is going on 2 years old in Feburary (posted January). Never had a 12V problem until this past Weekend.
Charged the main battery to 100% in case I needed to use VTL. We just had a storm blow through with sub-Zero temps.
Took car out on Saturday.. drove it down to around 75% charge... did NOT plug back into my home L1 charger. Monday night (it was a 3-day weekend) I went out to top it off (to 80%) and realized it was dead.
12V battery was down to 6.6V. Attached a charger to it and car immediately came back to life.
Car was not attached to a charger that may have been interrogating it for charge info. My simple portable home charger doesn't have any fancy features like an off-peak charge timer. I'm not aware of any other mobile Apps I've installed that would be connecting to the car.
This seems to me to simply be a case of the EV6 not recharging the battery fully while it was running.. definitely not recharging it from the main pack while it was idle.. and the battery failing in the cold (-7°F early this morning).
I took it to work today after it recharged (main and 12V) overnight. I'm hoping I don't need to stand around in the cold waiting for someone to jump me.
BTW.. I've got a charger in the car which would easily allow me to power up the 12V from the Main battery if I just plug it into the VTL or the in-cabin inverter.. the problem is, all the systems that control these features are powered by the 12V. So you could recharge your own 12V while away from home,.. if ONLY the 12V was charged. :-/
Hi. Thanks for the info. We have the Same problem. No evidence of 3rd party apps. Use Bluelink but only occasionally. One prob we have is that there is no way to open the charge port door (even doing the stuff recommended). So we are kind of goosed for the time being.
I like the new intro. I've been lucky to not have the 12 volt battery issue.
Thanks for sharing this information. I have had the car over a year now and luckily the 12V battery did not die on me. I have had a lot of bluelink issues though. I hope Hyundai improves the reliability of bluelink communications. Could you also ask Hyundai why Ioniq 5 does not charge at Tesla Superchargers with the new Magic Dock?
It isn't just Hyundai having problems with V3 Superchargers. All the Stellantis brands, MG, Honda and Dacia also have problems. The list of cars that work is probably shorter than those that don't.
Because Hyundai and Tesla have not reached an agreement. Only announced brand/model can use the magic dock but expect an announcement this year from Hyundai.
@TheIoniqGuy I own a 2023 KIA EV-6 GT-Line AWD. Tried googling if this issue exists with the EV-6 but cannot find anything on it. Would you happen to know? Also, I use a CarPlay adapter to be able to use CarPlay wirelessly. I leave it plugged in the USB port when car is not in use. Not sure if this is smart. Anyways, totally enjoy your videos … and these videos are a big reason why I pulled the trigger on an EV. Keep up the great work. Much appreciated.
I got my Ioniq5 in May 2023. This week (Sept 23) I had my first 12v failure 🙄 I rarely use Bluelink to do stuff like lock the car, but I had heard there was maybe an issue with the charging port flap weirdly draining the batteries.
IONIQ 6 LTD dead this morning. already had the ICCU check. Don't think it's extral apps connected through Bluelink because I don't believe I have added any of these. Don't see anywhere to check though in the app. Going to jump start it and see if that gets me going but I fear this problem will continue.
I recently leased a 2024 ioniq5 and parked it for two days. The first day out, the car wouldn't get into drive or reverse to let me drive and the battery light was on. The car was towed to the dealer. They test-drove it over 20 miles and did diagnostic tests The service dept. thought the Bluelink had been trying to upload a lot of updates while I was parked and to call them whenever the car asks to download another update. When I drove the car the next day, the message appeared again to download updates, but the dealership was closed because it was a weekend. I pressed okay and parked the car. All was good the next day after parking it overnight. Three days later, it happened again after I had been parked while running errands. The car wouldn't start with the same battery indicator light on. There had been no request for a Bluelink update this time. I was able to start the car about 6 minutes later. As of this post, I have had the car for two weeks, and I am concerned about the reliability of this vehicle.
Same issue with my kona EV and 12v battery after 25,000 miles. Apparently a common issue, and a dangerous one. Happend to me on side of road with a flat tire. Just thankful it wasn’t a “smart motorway” because no lights there is a death wish
I just got mine 12 v discharge issue, thanks for your video otgerwise i thiught my main battery died
I have the 23 EV6 (love it). Correct me if I'm incorrect, but I understand that the 12V batt does not charge unless the car is ON. With all this flak about it, I'm getting a monitor to watch it. Thanks for the vid!
Mine charges while the main battery is being charged also. It also charges when the v2l dongle is in the charge port.
Same with the Kona , mine , 4 months old , now at dealers !
Tonight we had our second 12v battery drain issue. We used the car just yesterday and returned home tonight (with another car) to a dead 12v. The first time this happened, we had to jump the car and move it out of our garage to be towed. Although we would have liked to have simply jumped the battery and allowed the traction battery to charge the 12v, it sat "running" in the driveway and we received a red error message that the 12v battery was discharged and we had to pull over to safety just before it completely shut off again. I am not going to risk driving the vehicle and having to suddenly pull over. When the dealership addressed the issue the first time, they said they ran some updates and charged the battery. Less than two months later, here we are again with the car about to be towed.
The dealership report says "VCMS Upgrade," "VCU Update," and "Performed updates as required for fault code C182C000, C182B00, U130F87."
I have a 2017 original Ioniq owned from new and have needed 4 batteries under warranty? This car (here in Norway) does not have Bluelink but still drained. How I got round the problem over the last 18 months is I leave the car in my secure garage unlocked and have never had this problem since. I believe the battery problem is something to do with either central locking or folding mirror systems. A tip for the Ioniq 5 owners is never leave the car for an extended period with less than 20% charge in the traction battery to allow the auxiliary battery to be kept topped-up.
i’m a technician at hyundai and there’s this certain ioniq 5 that’s i’m currently working on. The customer states that the 12 volt battery keeps having issues after having it replaced, also that they got a warning that it was low while driving. There are no iccu codes, they even had their iccu update which is a recall. i performed a parasitic draw test and have gotten no excessive draw. we have let it sit in our lot for 4 days now and we have had no issues with the battery being dead although the first time i pulled it in it was dead. i wonder if blue link could be the issue.
How to fix issue. Is it possible to fix our self. Assume the vehicle is under warranty
This just happened to me last week. I have an IONIQ 5 with 46K miles, and was doing 90% of my charging using public Electrify America stations because I had the 2-year free charging deal that came with the car. This expired on 7/15/24, so I've been using my level 2 home charger 100% of the time since. Last Tuesday I was out of town taking care of a 2-year old grandson for the day, and got in the car with him and it was dead. I called my home Hyundai service department and they had no clue. Needless to say I freaked. Managed to get it jumped and drove directly to the local Hyundai dealer to ask them, and they had no clue either. Made it home, and then bought a new battery the next day. I'm wondering if the fact that I started using the home charger on a daily basis - with its BlueLink connection - is the reason that all of a sudden this happened. Any insights? This whole thing is SO messed up - I instantly have no confidence in my car being reliable.
Have had my I5 since April 2022 (and 26,000miles) and was 12v battery problem free until today.
Now I'm waiting for AAA. Hope they know what to do.
The limiting of BlueLink was problematic last weekend on a road trip to Las Cruces. No warning was given that I had a limited number of checks. There is very little charging infrastructure in Las Cruces so we were monitoring when we had enough charge to go anywhere. Spoiler alert. We had to wait until Monday to leave bc the ONLY fast charger is behind locked gates of a Hyundai dealership (even tho you have to pay), so it was unavailable after hours and on Sunday.
I just had my first dead battery issue today. Plugged in my car which was at 19%. When I came out to the garage I noticed it was not charging and the 12V battery was dead. Note, when I wnet to plug it in there must have been enough battery power to unlock the plug-in lid but then the car went dead. I do not use Hyundai BlueLink.
Bought a like new used EV6 two months ago. Suddenly this week the dreaded 12v issues. It all started after I used the Kia app to make sure my car was locked. It’s died 5 times since. Replaced battery today but seems to still be draining, tho not to death. I don’t know what Bluelink even is. I’ve deleted the Kia app and am doing all the other things suggested on forums. Didn’t do anything with the last battery, but maybe the new battery will solve it. I was keeping windows open and key in the car in my garage so I def stopped those. Heard to lock also so no unlock alerts being sent.
Was there ever an official PR message from Hyundai about this 12v issue that anyone can share?
No longer have my I5, but good to see you are still putting out quality content for the community.
When you want the answer to a problem a car is having you don’t go to that car companies PR department. I have a Kia and have had to replace the 12 V battery before it’s even a year old. The only time I ever use the app is to set up a charge. I have no other outside apps contacting my car. Our electric utility asked me if I would take part in a survey where they would check to see when I was charging, my car, I opted out of that because of this reason.
what mileage does everyone have when they begin to experience issues?
My 2022 IONIQ 5 is in the shop right now for this issue. They said my 12v battery is fried and needs to be replaced. They claim that they are not aware of the issue and need to replace the battery before they can diagnose the cause of the issue. Since my 12v battery first died I have had various electrical issues in the car.
Just happened to one of my 2 ioniq 5s
How’d you resolve the issue?
time to switch to 48v architecture instead if 12v
energy is energy no matter what the voltage is
Our brand new 2023 Ioniq 6 SEL (3200mi) had a complete 12 v battery discharge today for no discernable reason. We drove a long distance three days ago, have driven shorter distances since every day. We have not used Blue link yet, know of no lights left on or failure to shut down the electronics completely. We called roadside assistance and got a jump and we'll put it on a trickle charger tonight. We are very concerned about this and we're grateful to learn that it's been happening to other owners and that Hyundai is finally responding. We'll try to work through our local dealership to get the issue solved.
What did the dealership say about the fix for your battery issue?
Haven't seen any recent comments about this problem, has the issue been resolved? (New EV-6 owner here..)
Nope, many people still dealing with this everyday
@@TheIoniqGuy Thanks. I purchased a jump pack - just in case.
Good call
Same with my 2023 kona ev. Have to open the door with key and boost it quit often
Thank you! I have noticed my battery charging light on the dash operating several times per week and have not had any issues with my 12v battery on my 2023 Ioniq 5 SEL. I am looking forward to your working on the charging issues with the Tesla Superchargers. I suspect you will be the first to get a response and proposed fix from Hyundai. Again, thanks!
I let them know about what’s going on. PR didn’t Know what was happening internally about superchargers but said they’d look into what they know
@@TheIoniqGuy Thanks! I ran across an article in a British e-pub (Electrifying?) implying that the European Tesla 150 kW Magic Dock chargers work with the HI5, but not the 250 kW chargers. That may be interesting.
Where is this yellow charging light that everyone keeps talking about? Which screen? Is it a picture of a battery?
The light is on top of the dash, almost directly under the rear view mirror. It is not in the menus.
I have a 2021 hyundai sonata hybrid limited with a solar roof, and have been experiencing the same random dead 12v battery issue. I have no third party apps, and I use bluelink maybe twice a week. Thing is, my car is literally sitting out in the sun 90% of the time because I work at home, but I still experience dead battery issues maybe once every 2-3 weeeks. It just seems to be completely random. The solar panel should also asisst in charging the battery, so it has to be another issue.
I've got a 2022 Sonata Limited hybrid w/solar panel, and I've have the exact same issue. Like you, it's been random. Pushing the 12 volt reset switch doesn't resolve the problem, However, I can jump start it using the procedure set down in the manual. The dealership made a cursery inspection and couldn't locate the problem. It made an appointment for me for October 10! Given the multiple other electrical issues with this car (like the display settings returning to their defaults when the car is turned off, the heating/ac turning off, the "miles since last refueling" data resetting to 0, etc), it's always a crapshoot what will happen when I try to use it. I also have metastatic cancer and a severe heart problem, so I absolutely need a reliable vehicle to get to chemo or to cardiac procedure appointments. This car has done this since the week after I drove it away from the dealership as a new vehicle and the dealership has simply dismissed my complaints. I will be pursuing the "lemon law" statute procedure in my state. I don't use BlueLink at all - in fact, I disabled it for a time to see if it made a difference - nada.
I have a 2022 Ioniq 5 AWD with the ICCU recall done and a 2 month old battery that dies if the car sits for more than 2 days. Dealer says nothing is wrong and I will figure this out myself I guess.
The metal key opens the door and I have a little 12v battery jumper. Car starts right up with that and leaving the car on charges the battery. These 12v batteries can only take so many of these dead events. Going to get a cigar lighter voltmeter to know when to charge the battery. Have noticed the car charges the battery when a v2l dongle is plugged in. FYI. Considering an agm battery
and will be canceling the bluelink apps.
H^ May 22 //ev6 GT line, Currently at the Service guys, they are doing further tests. We keep getting the "Low 12v battery " warning and the battery tests as fully charged!!
Bought the 2023 ioniq5 in September 2023. It is now April 22, 2024. The car has shut down four times during that seven month period 😅because the 12 volt battery has drained down, shutting off the car completely. The most recent occurrence was yesterday. After the first three occurrences requiring roadside-assistance visits from CAA. After the third time, I bought a handheld 12 volt battery booster (similar to the type used by CAA tow trucks) and used it yesterday to successfully restart the car. Today the vehicle😅 is at the dealership being serviced for a Hyundai-issued security recall. The car was serviced by the dealership in january after the second time it happened and was kept there for three days because they had to order a “special” part which they installed and then returned the vehicle to us. There were no further battery drains until about a month later. When I took it in today I reported that this was the fourth such occurrence. (Sigh…)
I've had my EV6 back from the dealer for over a month now. it's been in to them 3 times with the 12volt battey draining. All they did was to disable the mobile phone link in the car. Since this was done I have had no issues. I'm taking it in for it's first service tomorrow (1 year after purchase) and have asked them to fix the problem as I have not been able to use the Kia connect app at all. I'm not confident they will be able to fix it.
I have had dead 12v battery several times after long trips with multiple charging stops in cold weather (norway). Seems to happen. When I arrive home with less than 20% charge and leave the car notbcharging over night. The next morning the 12v is completely dead (like 5v). Then I have to remove it and charge it because its so low that the boost type charges don't work. Super frustrating.
Have a 2024 Kona and dead battery this morning after car sitting approximately 8 days. Had not been an issue before. I loaded Apple CarPlay and given your explanation, now wonder if my Apple apps could be demanding battery in excess. I will delete CarPlay (which is not needed) and see if I have this again.
My Kona EV lost a 12v battery at 1 year. They said it reported one of its internal cells as dead. Replaced under warranty, no problems since.
This is the 7th time we have had dead 12v battery issues in the 6 months we've owned our new Ionic 5. Each time the 12 v battery is completely drained, requiring us to recharge tge battery before it will start. We have had the battery replaced once so far. There appears to be nothing we can do to prevent this from happening. In earlier cases, the car had not been started for a few days only to find the car completely dead. This last time, it was literally just hours. It's not being towed to the dealership for repair. We are super frustrated since we are a 1-car household. We are hoping to get this resolved or we will pursue a buyback based on tge lemon laws.
I’ve used Optiwatt on my Tesla S Plaid without incident. Although I was never able to sync the app to my 22 SEL Ioniq5, I wouldn’t rule out the repeated background attempts to synch with the that caused my 12v phantom draw.
I've been locked out of my hyundai sonata 2020 several times. Key fab dead can't get in car, have to hit restart battery button inside once you get in....not easy to remove outside key lock cover...stuck if you can't. I even replaced battery in fab today when it happened ...nothing
In Puerto Rico we don't have Bluelink and we have the same problem.
12v battery drain started for me this past week, and it came out of nowhere. I’ve had to jump start the car multiple times since. Hoping to get into Hyundai this coming week. It’s really frustrating.
This unbelievable it happen to me a couple days ago. The battery shouldn’t die! I never use bluelink and I came out to a dead car. I had to jump it and it’s now ok but this should be happening for an expensive car like this! I have all the updates
Yep! Dead 12 V battery after doing a 100% charge overnight at a public ChargePoint station. How can that be? The car is less than 2 years old. The main battery was at ~ 15% (guessing). I don't use BlueLink more than a few times per day. The question I have is whether I need to replace or just jump start it?
THANKS, but this has just happened to us so the mitigation has not worked. The worst thing is that you can’t open the door to main battery charger. We had 10% left on that battery and now the recovery person has charged the battery and I could plug the car in, it seems to be charging the 12vbatttery
Hello I have a 2019 hyundai accent and I'm sometimes getting a battery discharge warning
I have had this 3 x in one week on the EV6. I don’t have any of those apps. I just gave the Kia connect app. Which is the same as the Hyundai one I believe. I had heard that the app can cause the issue by polling the car.
Bonjour merci pour les infos oui aujourd'Hui j'ai eu un avertissement pour batterie faible
From my own experience using a device through the OBD port, this is plausible, but IMHO it's highlighting a bug in the BMS where the BMS occassionally fails to kick in to charge the 12V. Obviously the quicker the battery drains, the more frequently the 12V is needed to charge from the traction battery, and the more likely it is to hit the fail-to-charge bug. I had a device (OVMS - I'm implementing the Ioniq 5 link) that used to continually poll the ECU for various states (doors, car on etc), which would cause the battery to drain in 3-4 hours. Once I stopped doing that it lasts considerably longer (I now hold back on requesting the values by monitoring the 12V line for quick changes / charge events before doing any polling) . So yeah, this seems likely the problem that reveals the issue, but I believe there are better ways of handling it in firmware. (I think they don't retry actions over the CAN bus often enough).
Oh, and BTW, I only had 1 dead-battery event which was when I realised I had a problem.
I guess part of the problem is we (well at least me) has no idea what their battery charging strategy is. I see the light go on my dash but have no idea why it went on at that moment. My 12v likes to hang out at about 82%, and I have not had any battery issues. I question why I never see it up close to 100% though. I would have thought anytime you had the car on it would be charging the 12v up to full capacity. The 12v is tiny compared to the traction battery so I don't get what is going on. Toyota had a similar issue with the 12v battery in my 2002 Prius. The fix for both that and this would be to have a manual switch that you could connect the traction battery to the 12v when it was dead. This while not fixing the problem would basically make it almost a non-issue as you could just unlock the car with the metal key and hit that switch and be on your way.
I’m the owner of 2022 Ioniq 5 I still have an issue a couple time dead battery on 12v. I have to take it dealer again this Friday same issue.
this is looks like true. BUT! But I think that they do not have adequate measurement for battery current charge cause if they had, - they would move power from the main battery to 12v. But they are not doing that. Meaning it not perfect design. Hopefully they will do "recall" and will install some more sensors or do some other things. I noticed another day, - that I didn't have anymore bluelink requests. I thought it was weird. THat was the only day that I left my car charging on 30Amp charger (22m/h) and I needed to know when it's gonna reach 80 (it was set to 100 and to change 100 to 80 is the pain).
I had my 12v fail for the first time on 3/29/2023. That night was only the 2nd time I've ever left the car overnight with a low SOC (11%). It was dead the next morning. I can jump the car, but when even hooked up the 12v to a battery tender, it won't hold the charge. Seems completely dead. Going to the dealer tomorrow, so we'll see what they say.
Hello. Hyundai bought my car back after ongoing 12 volt battery issues. Duke energy offers a monthly credit for off peak charging. I took advantage of that. Now, it seems, that was the reason for my issues.
I’d say it’s pretty likely that was the issue. What are you driving now?
My 2015 Kia Soul EV without Bluelink had a dead 12V battery and luckily I was stranded in front of my house. I also used to own a 2016 Kia Soul EV without this issue and I now own a 2022 Hyunda Kona EV and it's been fine. For my Kona EV, once in a while, through the yellow light in front of the Hyundai emblem, I see that the 12V battery is being charged by the high voltage battery automatically - does the Ioniq5 have this feature?
I have a 2023 Ionic 5 with 17000 miles on it. About a month ago I took it to the dealer because of the 12 volt battery problem. They did the latest update on about August 2024 and checked my battery as good. Today I was to go to a meeting and my car battery was dead. I can drive it if I plug a second jumper battery in under the hood and took it to the dealer. The tech said they have four cars there with the same problem right now. I don't think I have any software on my phone that would interact with the car. My solution is to keep a second battery charged and with me in case I can't start the car.
My Ioniq 5 has just 30k miles and battery was dead on Friday. I never let it go under 20% charge but I had returned from a 2 week vacation a week before. But it started for 5 days after returning. Took it to the dealership today and they replaced the battery. No idea if the 2 weeks of no use impacted this
I have a 2009 Hyundai Genisis bought in 2012. It worked fine until 2019 when I hadn't driven it for 5 days at the lake; a boost from a neighbor started it immediately. Recently it has been getting much worse. I have a trickle charger which I plug in all the time when I'm home. I can't make two stops now while shopping without it dying. The last one, I was gone from the car for one-half hour. My brother-in-law said he had a similar problem with a different make and he found it was the fuse that was the problem. I have another garage appointment on Novemer 1 and hopefully they can check out the fuses. I'm always told that my battery is fine and also my alternator. Any suggestions on the fuse situation?
Just had the same issue in my 2021 kona turned my Bluelink offline and the problem
Returned a month later… definitely more than a Bluelink problem
I just had the issue last night. I dropped my car off at the dealership this morning so hopefully they can resolve this.
What is a good 12 volt battery jump pach for Ioniq 6
i had this issue. i think whats happening is after 2 yrs long story short, just buy a new battery. the large battery always feeds electricity in the small battery so it always tests good . but its not good . i changed my battery , spent my $250 for the best battery at oreilly , and installed it myself as they wont assist w electric/hybrid cars. so if your having this issue. buy a new battery asap and be done!
Just had issue twice now. First time opened door to get jacket and could no longer close it. Two days later opened car, started it, it demanded to shut down due to 12V battery. Can’t even lock car on public street now. Front door can be locked but others can’t. Completely irresponsible.
Well bluelink let’s me know at least six times a day that the car is unlocked. Car resides in my attached garage and no need to lock it. (Covered in other forum threads. On iphone there is no way to disable that specific message)
Owner for the past year and do not have that problem. Super car. What is the app that you use to check charge level? Thanks and have a good day.
It’s called Recurrent
Plus ionic uses cheap batteries, for a relatively expensive vehicle they should use a good lithium ion 12 volt battery. We had a similar issue with the battery in our Kia Nero plugin they replaced it on warranty. I have an EV6 and am careful to use the utility mode if I am sitting in the car listening to music or whatever.