The 12V Battery In My Ioniq 5 Died After 2.5 years
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Please read this update!: Someone informed me that AGM requires higher voltage to fully charge versus a standard lead acid battery like the car came with and after digging around some more, that appears to be true so I dont think AGM is a drop in replacement. I'm going to monitor this battery over the next week and see what happens but I might just return this and get a regular battery from Autozone. If you want to preemptively replace, just use a standard 12V. You can get one at any auto parts store like Autozone, Napa or O'reilly's. It’s possible that AGM will work perfectly fine but i sont have enough data to know for certain.
📺Ingineerix battery teardown: • Tesla 12v battery - Pr...
📺Learn about ICCU recall here: • Hyundai & Kia Issue RE...
💸Battery booster to keep in your car: amzn.to/3V4tkbw
💸Puchase my products here: www.theioniqgu...
😎Support the channel by becoming a channel member and get lots of extras like Ioniq 5 emojis in comments, discounts on my stores, early access to new videos and much more! Membership starts at $3/month.
👍Be sure to join the 10K members of The Ioniq Guy community on Facebook to share your experiences with our EVs: groups/theioniqguy/
🍺If you'd like to support the channel further, you can always buy me a beer: www.buymeacoff...
✅Ioniq Guy Approved Accessories:
▶️USB LED Lights: amzn.to/3QGkP13
▶️FitcamX Integrated Dashcam: amzn.to/41OLlLL
▶️Autel 50A Hardwired Charger: amzn.to/44C9Rk9
▶️Autel 40A NEMA 6-50 Charger: amzn.to/3NtiF56
▶️Autel 40A NEMA 14-50 Charger: amzn.to/3PH8ZXw
▶️Tesla Charging Adapter: amzn.to/3Pb3Ncy
▶️Cabin Air Filter: amzn.to/3IWwhUc
▶️OBDII Scanner for Monitoring Battery Temps: amzn.to/3GYBI1N
▶️Bosch Icon Wiper Blades 26A & 18A: amzn.to/3sFlzcq
▶️RainX Wiper Blade (Driver): amzn.to/461Xb70
▶️RainX Wiper Blade (Passenger): amzn.to/3PajIHZ
▶️28MM LED Bulbs for Trunk and Vanity Lights: amzn.to/3GXr11t
▶️Padded Armrest Cover: amzn.to/3elUbx2
▶️Black Mirror Caps: amzn.to/3eVWuqP
▶️Black Bezel Cover: amzn.to/3dCeB4u
▶️Retractable Cargo Cover: amzn.to/3QBCG9E
▶️LinerX Ioniq 5 Floor Mats (SE/SEL): amzn.to/3Pfljfs
▶️LinerX Ioniq 5 Floor Mats (Limited): amzn.to/3sMKeQ7
▶️Trunk Mat: amzn.to/3vUYzc8
▶️Seat Back Covers: amzn.to/3JPx21p
▶️Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray: amzn.to/3xXAao9
▶️Motorola MA1 for Android Auto: amzn.to/3wUftHf
▶️CarlinKit 5.0 for Apple CarPlay/Android Auto: amzn.to/3LgHReX
▶️Screen Protector: amzn.to/3xFQW9s
▶️4 Dot Emblem: amzn.to/3yfbk2w
▶️4 Dot Open Emblem: amzn.to/3EAJ0eO
▶️Armrest Organizer: amzn.to/3A0eecI
▶️Center Console Organizer: amzn.to/3OFAMnw
▶️Door Handle Bowls: amzn.to/3Sc1aas
▶️Rubber Liners: amzn.to/3ScVRHW
💵As an Amazon Influencer, I earn from qualifying purchases.
📷Follow me on Instagram: @theioniqguy
#ioniq5 #ioniq6 #ev6 #ev9 #gv60 #hyundai #genesis #kia #ioniqguy
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
Please read this update!: Someone informed me that AGM requires higher voltage to fully charge versus a standard lead acid battery like the car came with and after digging around some more, that appears to be true so I dont think AGM is a drop in replacement. I'm going to monitor this battery over the next week and see what happens but I might just return this and get a regular battery from Autozone. If you want to preemptively replace, just use a standard 12V. You can get one at any auto parts store like Autozone, Napa or O'reilly's.
📺Ingineerix battery teardown: th-cam.com/video/i27lApNWkyA/w-d-xo.html
📺Learn about ICCU recall here: th-cam.com/video/eV8owdnQvck/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YbMYZta0fy7StA8F
💸Battery booster to keep in your car: amzn.to/3V4tkbw
💸Puchase my products here: www.theioniqguy.com/
😎Support the channel by becoming a channel member and get lots of extras like Ioniq 5 emojis in comments, discounts on my stores, early access to new videos and much more! Membership starts at $3/month.
👍Be sure to join the 10K members of The Ioniq Guy community on Facebook to share your experiences with our EVs: facebook.com/groups/theioniqguy/
🍺If you'd like to support the channel further, you can always buy me a beer: www.buymeacoffee.com/theioniqguy
I'm sure your OEM 12v was craptasticly cheap, but I wonder if it might be a better practice to leave your Ioniq 5 plugged in if disused for a while, so the ICCU can charge the 12v if needed. I don't think the 12v gets charged ever with the car off unless it is L2 charging and the ICCU is active and HV contactors open
re: "Someone informed me that AGM requires higher voltage to fully charge versus a standard lead acid battery like the car came with..." that is correct when AGM's are fully charged if/when you put a meter on them they have a noticeably higher standing voltage (13.0 to 13.2) VS a traditional Flooded Lead Acid battery (12.6 to 12.8) so consequently they DO require a specific charge profile to maintain them, so yeah if an AGM isn't what what Hyundai specs for EGMP...? then it's very possible the output of the DC to DC isn't matched to support an AGM, however it WILL technically work. for reference: modern alternators on Gas cars are designed to output 14V (+/- 2V) at idle to, so as to properly maintain sealed AGM batteries regardless if the car is driving down the road or not...
perhaps though of even greater importance, the AGM's put in Gas cars are expressly designed with the CCA's for repeatedly TURNING A STARTER (especially with many OEM's now fitting start/stop for fuel savings). of course EV's don't have starters, so the appropriate AGM replacement battery will be one designed NOT for high CCA, no, but for Deep Cycle/Marine type usage. ie. lower amp draw but over longer periods. trust me, you can kill off an AGM Lead Acid Starter Battery by incorrectly using it in a Deep Cycle application even FASTER, than if you simply give it less than ideal charging voltage. starting AGM's absolutely HATE deep cycling.
12V battery is constantly monitored by the car and will be charged even if the car is unplugged. However if the the 12V is damaged and/or below a certain state of health the car refuses to charge it anymore and it has to be replaced.
Good video and thanks for the update.
My battery maintainer puts out a higher voltage when you switch it to AGM mode.
Master ASE Hyundai/ KIA/LEXUS/TOYOTA Tech. SO many points to cover but the first thing I will mention Is, His videos are informative, and he does a great job in speaking. Lets Explain a little further on going to the dealer to warranty your bad 12v battery. At the dealer we have to follow Hyundia guidelines for the warranty process. This means you leaving the vehicle over night for us to follow the warranty replacement guidelines. Starting with charging the Battery overnight. It then has to be tested using only Hyundia's provided tester. If it passes, we will return your vehicle to you. If it fails, we will then replace your battery but that is provided we have one in stock. If not, your vehicle will have to remain at the dealer tell we are able to receive a new battery for your vehicle. So don't think you will come in and have your battery tested and replaced as you wait.
Well, something has to be replaced as this is new vehicles we're talking about here and not leave it a hassle to the costumer. That charging and testing 12v is a joke, if you had to charge (boost) to get it going, there's a problem. This is EV, so the rules do not apply same as the ice vehicle, for example, you can kill (discharge) ice vehicles battery if you use it with engine not running (alternator not charging), leave light on etc. EV has insane size main drive battery that can top up little 12v battery when ever needed, driving or not. So if 12v battery failed in the ioniq 5, there's a problem either with charging or battery itself (I personally think Hyundai charging logic is wrong letting those 12v discharge too low and killing them way too early in life). Either way, Hyundai should just eat up the cost and replace 12v batteries or other components responsible no questions asked until they figure out why 1-2 year old 12v batteries fail like nowhere else in the industry.
@@RCmodelVideos It is the process we have to go under to warranty the battery it is not the dealer's choice. The charging data under the AMS system shows it is charging at the correct rate Both voltage and amperage. I have simply found by people replacing the 12v Battery with a Lithium battery has resolve any 12v issues they were having.
@@RickLancaster-w2x I understand the process, and I said, "Hyundai" should replace or allow replace/repair no questions asked and stop putting it on the customers to get a "better" battery that can take abuse of the ioniq 5 charging logic. I'm saying this because there're so many people that have to fight this with the Hyundai or dealers. That is wrong regardless what excuse Hyundai has.
@@RCmodelVideos I agree with you.
@@RickLancaster-w2x I had it fail on my EV6 twice., also after the first year the battery replacement is prorated plus the need to go to a dealer and fuss around. So I just bought a glass mat 12. Volt which weights twice as much as the OEM Battery from a local auto shop which has a full replacement warranty for 5 years. As most folks I have a lithium booster battery kit just in case. 😊
2024 model ioniq 5 single motor bought in Luxembourg October 2023. Dead 12v battery at the end of April. Went to dealer on a Monday in person. First appointment Thursday even with a dead car. Kept it until Tuesday. Blamed it on a faulty light bulb and replaced the battery. Still waiting now 3 weeks later for the replacement light bulb.
Lesson 1 was the lithium jump start battery I bought when I got the car. I knew I might have 12v problems from new. So I was ready. With this I managed to start the car.
Lesson 2 was using camping mode to keep the traction battery active and the car alive. Turn off climate and auto lights, roll driver window down, get out with the key, lock the door from the door button and then hit window up and get your arm out quickly. I survived like this for the days until I could take it to the garage. Open again with the app or the physical key
The pain continues with this car! Had the iccu fixed last year. Then same error came up again 2 months ago and that was related to the water pump. NOW this week the AC has gone and doing some research it appears this is yet another common issue. Unreal.
You’re the man, Ioniq guy. The exact same thing happened to my 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD two days ago. Car is 2 years and 3 weeks since I bought it with about 12,000 miles. What a coincidence! By the way I had all the software recalls performed regarding the ICCU and they didn’t need to replace any fuses.
Did they replace the battery for free?
Thanks for the deep dive into your situation and the explanation about AGM vs lithium. Appreciate your work!
I've had my 2022 Ioniq 5 for a little over 2 years.I've been careful to make sure all recalls are addressed as quickly as possible. EV's being a fairly new technology, I think they take a bit more diligence to keep them in tip top shape. When people first started reporting issues with the 12V batteries a couple of years ago, I was careful to monitor my car and make sure the 12V was getting charged (the amber light on the dash). So far, I've had really good luck with my car and I love it. It has found it's forever home.
Happened to us at almost 2 years in too. And the Hyundai dealer tried to blame us and gave us the complete run around. In spite of the fact it’s happening to Ioniq owners EVERYWHERE.
my general rule with dealers is to try and avoid going to them. I'd pay $140 easily to not have to talk anyone at a car dealer.
Corbin- I watch your video about 2 weeks ago. I have a 9/2022 Ioniq 5….after driving from Philadelphia to Maine my battery died! 21 months, I’m glad I watched your video to really know what was happening and what to do about it. Thank you
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I had my battery die on 23 I5 twice. Just spent 30 days at the dealer going back and forth. Finally, they were able to get the 12V battery replaced inder warranty (I had to argue with Hyundai on that for a week!) they also found that the battery sensor was broken. So fingers crossed.
Anyway, a few points.. You should see your car charging the 12v pretty frequently. You can tell by the little yellow light on the dash. If you dont see this light coming on, consider that your warning that it's gonna die soon.
One point ill disagree with you on is that it's "ok" to replace the 12v battery every few years. With proper maintenance a lead acid battery can last 10 years. In all my cars I've owned or my parents owned we have never replaced the 12v battery and they are all over 10yrs old.
So Hyundai needs to get their act together on this one
AGM is a good option. Just be sure whatever you get is intended for Deep Cycle use and not SLI (starting, lights, instruments) use. My hybrid had a 12V battery that never saw a starting load, but was an SLI battery. I was replacing it every 3 years due to failuer. There was not a compatible deep cycle battery available.
Just had our 12 volt die after almost exactly 24 months. Got it to charge up and will hopefully be able to drive it to the dealership. Thank you Ioniq Guy! Your videos have been very helpful.
I was having 12v battery issues. Went to dealer for recent recall and assess battery, they did the update and said battery was fine but the 12v still continued to die. Then the car stopped charging.
The next service visit, they changed battery and did some testing. They tried changing charge port, didnt fix, they ended up replacing the iccu and now its working fine.
What kind of issues were you having with charging? I'm having an issue where it won't charge according to the schedule but if I disable or override the schedule it charges fine. Still have our original 12V but have not had the most recent ICCU update. Had car since Feb 22.
@garethw001 specifically level 1 and level 2 charging was not working at all. Level 3 was chargjng.
My 2023 Ioniq 6 just experienced the first dead 12v battery. It has been at the Hyundai Dealership so far about 1 week (and yes the 12v was jumped and also died on their parking lot while it was sitting there for 2 days). They have been “so-called” trying to do diagnostics test on it and communicating to “Hyundai Tech-line”. They have tested and stated the 12v seems to be fine, whatever else test they did seems fine. So now they are saying it must be a “parasitic draw” somewhere draining the 12v battery. I have no apps connected to my Ioniq 6 other than Bluelink. No bluetooth electricity company, no 3rd party self-installed apps. Nothing.
My Ioniq 6 is 1 yr and 3 months old now. All recalls have been performed up-to-date. All updates such as ICCU has been performed for as long as I've been driving this car.
Here’s a recap before I brought this in on “Saturday July 27”.
On that week “Wednesday July 24”, I went into the dealership with NO problems other than needing to get my “key fob” reprogrammed to my ioniq 6 because it was a new FOB. When they reprogrammed it, they decided to do a “new update” that was available on my car relating to “charging”. Keep in mind, I did not know they did an update on that same day (Wednesday).
Now fast forward to Thursday/Friday, I walk out to my car at night. DEAD 12v batttery!
So fast forward about 1 week (todays current state), they are trying to still diagnose it and they said they don’t see anything wrong with the 12v battery, they dont see any other things “so-far”. So now, they say it’s a “Parasitic draw” somewhere that they are trying to figure out.
It’s frustrating because they are barely working on diagnosing the car (they claim they are too busy and they don't have enough EV techs). They are barely talking to “hyundai tech-line”.
I can only think that the “reprogramming of the key fob” could be the possible culprit because when re-programming, the key has to talk to all the computer modules in the car (50+ of them I was told). OR it could be the “charging update” that they installed on my Ioniq 6. Maybe it was a BAD update that was installed on my car and possibly on other people’s cars as they bring it in.
What’s strange is, they seem to not be able to “re-install” an older version update to even test the theory out! or test if the car performs proper (before i brought it into the dealership on July 24th).
I’m lost for words right now and HYUNDAI is constantly ducking and dodging my phone calls for “status updates”.
@The Ioniq Guy
If you know of so possible issues that might sound like what I could be dealing with, please provide me with some suggestions. OR ANYONE.
Hope this is interesting to someone!
I've been trying to reach out to Hyundai Corporate, NO LUCK because they don't let customers interact with corporate.
I've reached out to customer service, this is too high level techy for them to comprehend.
I've reached out to Hyundai Case Managers, they are just a "high level" fancy customer service team.
I need Hyundai CORPORATE because there are so many issues with this dealerships lack of "communication", experience level, and service level. They duck and dodge all phone calls and calling ANYONE back for status updates.
Thanks for the honesty!
I don't need this for my 23 SEL but it's very timely information to have. Thanks Corbin. All the best
Our Ioniq 5 and its 12V battery are about the same age as yours. I too have been looking into an AGM replacement even though we have had no issues. Perhaps this will prompt me into being more proactive and getting it done. BTW isn’t pulling the high voltage cutoff switch recommended before disconnecting the old 12V battery?
dont bother getting an agm,,, get a 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery
yes get a "quality" AGM, and not the "Billionaire Cheapskates" AGM. you do this for the same reason you DON'T put 12V "Starter Batteries" in a Golf Cart. yes technically they'll work, but they'll also fail prematurely simply because they're NOT designed for the use case (hint: that's why they make specific Marine/Deep Cycle batteries)...
yeah, i've got a half dozen pictures on my phone of FULL PALLETS (3 layers high) of dead 12V Group 31 batteries headed off to the recyclers for the 2 reasons being, #1- they got used in the WRONG APPLICATION, and #2 - they got spec'd FOR the application simply because THEY WERE CHEAP.
If you live in a cold climate, I'd also advise go AGM instead of lithium. There's some really nice lithium 12v drop in replacements out there, but they all require their own BMS and warming circuitry to keep up to temperature. If you're in a cold place like I am (Colorado), you may find you can't use the car in the cold only if the 12v is anemic in the cold. I'm planning on replacing my battery with an Optima Yellowtop when the time comes
You had better luck than my 2020 Kia Soul EV, just past 1 year full battery replacement warranty my 12 volt died, and I wasted several trips into town (via ferry at my expense) all those times Kia claimed the battery was fine so I just replaced it with AGM and never looked back.
Mine happened on my GV60 at about 15 months. ICCU checked and found no faults. Dealer did a replacement under warranty.
How long ago was that?
@@TheIoniqGuy About a month ago. They took three weeks to source a replacement, but the car was drivable (they said there was one sick cell).
I just went ahead and put Ohmmu batteries in both my eGMP cars when I got them to just not ever have to worry about this. They're Lithium Ion , and have their own BMS that is tuned for the eGMP platform specifically -- and can be updated OTA. They have an app that lets you monitor the battery, and these things have so much capacity I hardly ever see (or need!) the orange light of ICCU 12v charging. Expensive? Yes, but just one incident of my wife and kiddos being stranded somewhere because the cheap Hyundai 12v battery failed, and it wouldn't seem that expensive at all.
BTW I've not seen one eGMP complaint or failure due to an Ohmmu on any forum or reddit (just early Tesla failures), I think the tear-down criticism of them is probably pretty overblown. I also don't live in an area of the country that gets that cold to need battery heating in my 12v battery....
@@ev_kimchi they are pretty new. We shall see after 2+ yrs.
I do plan to replace mine with Ohmmu. Can I just buy one and keep it in the trunk?
im dreading this happening to our ioniq now :(. But a portable jump starter doesnt charge up a battery - gives it a boost to start a car. Did you try 12v trickle or smart charger?
No but once the car is jumped it should begin charging the battery again. No I didn’t. If the battery is at that low of a voltage there’s no saving it
I don't understand why Hyundai/Kia can't figure this out! My 2016 BMW i3 BEVs 12 volt battery lasted for almost 7 years. just replaced it 1 year ago. the car also have remote GPS locating and preconditioning via app and most other features which the Ioniq 5 has.
Interesting video. My '23 I5 limited gave me a "dead" battery after about 8 months. Dealer messed with it for 30 days, fortunately they gave me an I5 as a loaner. They decided it was software pinning the car too much and had me delete Bluelink and reinstall with new password. They told me there was no damage to 12v, even though it was down to 6.5 to 7 volts when it had died on me. They told me the same thing to have it towed. I instead put it on a external charger and brought it up to full charge and watched it for a day or two and then drove it to dealer. It has been fine for six months and is holding a charge just fine, so you never know. As far as batteries dying in 3-5 years on ICE cars, I guess it depends. My wife's battery on an Elantra died after 6 years, but my Sonata Hybrid was 8.5 years old when I got rid of it with the original 12v. I checked the battery you got on Amazon and it says if I order it today sunday 5/19, I will have it on 5/22 so perhaps they have improved the shipping. One suggestion based on your experience loosing the history data from the computer, I bet if you kept your jump pack connected to the terminals when you changed the battery you would retain that data - just an idea.
I've just been changed this ordinary 12 Volt battery for an 12 volt / 100 amps iron - phosphate one,( LiFePO4) no troubles anymore and also in winter ❄️ have always 13.3 volts constantly
As for people inquiring about the Ioniq 6 Yes we are replacing the 12v battery's on a regular basis for the same condition even if the ICCU update was completed Prior.
Thank you so much for the information! That kind of stinks so maybe I won’t be buying one then if it’s going to have issues like that but I’ll still test drive one though.
@@2021PorscheTaycanTurboS Remember it is simply a 12v battery issue that can be resolved with a 12v Lithium replacement
The owners manual states that owners should only be installing Hyundais OEM battery so I’m a little confused why you’re recommending anything but. Wouldn’t switching to a lithium be grounds for denying a warranty claim?
@@TheIoniqGuy No it would not. It is no different than replacing your battery in an ICE vehicle. As for the OEM battery you have to understand you will continue to be in the same 12v Battery failure issue
To create a warranty issue, you have to take the Vehicle outside of the designed operating parameters. Example would be converting it to a 24-v system
We have 2017 and 2018 Chevy Bolts. I put a cheap plug-in voltmeter in each and watch it frequently. The BMS maintains the charge at 12.6 volts in each. I replaced both batteries at the four year mark. I also use a cheap desulphater once a month on each. Obviously, the 12 v system is important to me, as most of the internal operating electric components are operated by this system. Chevy didn't "cheap out" and use lead acid batteries, but AGM types. Still, they are the most vulnerable system in your car ! And I consider them as short lived, and disposable items. Basically, 19th century in a 21st century car...
When the 12V on my 2022 first 'died' last fall I couldn't get it going with a jump start pack at all it just displayed an error. Measured the voltage with a multimeter and it was showing 3-4V when connected to the car's terminals but 7.xV when disconnected. Put it on a trickle charger for a few hours to get it back up to 12-13V. I installed a Bluetooth battery monitor at that time and realized that something was blocking the car's systems from topping the 12V off as it is supposed to. I discovered that it was related to my recent enrollment in my local utility's demand management program which connected to the car through Bluelink. As soon as I removed my car from this program it went back to topping up the 12V every ~24 hours (according to logs from the battery monitor which stores 30 days) regardless of whether it was plugged in or not, or driven. It has not given me any issues since, knock on wood. Now close to 50,000km on the car. I'm debating replacing it proactively this fall anyway which would be close to 3 years of ownership but still haven't decided if AGM is worth the extra cost or just get a new standard lead acid more often.
Costco actually now sells only interstate AGM batteries.
Very good report...Too bad yours didn't fail sooner....lol...So we could have gotten the details of the problem and the fix sooner. I hesitated with the lithium too. I was a bit worried about the cold weather functionality and the huge cost compared to the AGM, which is known to take extreme heavy use.
i have got my ioniq 5 dealer replaced iccu. today when i parked it home for 1hour and came back turned car on it had all sorts of errors check foward safety systems, regenerative braking wouldnt work, blind spot safety systems many errors. i disconnected 12v battery for 15 minutes and when i reconnected it back i didnt had errors. later after i went for a drive for a drink for 1h. when i finished drink i turned car on and again all those error messages came back. is this issue with 12v battery failing or ? did you had simmilar experience ?
0:30 Hi, I don’t drive an Ionic, I have a 2022 Hyundai Tucson hybrid that I bought new. I arrived at your channel after searching “Hyundai 12v battery failure” after previously searching “2022 Hyundai Tucson hybrid dead”. I found a couple of videos that allowed me to unlock the car and then start it, but nothing as comprehensive as you offer on your channel. But, the question is, will you extend a hand to Hyundai hybrid owners and include our models on your surveys? If Hyundai does take such feedback into consideration, they should know that the list of unhappy owners with nearly identical issues is growing over this 12v battery row!
It is interesting that this happened even though you had left your main battery at 82% which you would expect would keep the 12v active regardless of not being driven.
One thing I’ve tried is to not use apps like Ohme, Bluelink, TRONITY etc unless I’m actually using or planning to use the car - basically minimising the number of times the car gets ‘pinged’ causing the car to wake up and draw power. From the battery monitor data I can see there are days where there are zero ‘wake up’ blips and just a top up charge.
Hyundai lowered the limit of how many times external apps can use its API to ping the car last year so it shouldn’t be much of an issue anymore but yeah, I don’t really recommend people use those apps
I bought an Ioniq 5 (‘23) in Sept of 2023. My 12v just died yesterday (July 23rd). It didn’t last a year. I do already have 32000 miles on my car but some people said that shouldn’t matter.
Regarding your Update on voltage on AGM vs standard Lead Acid.
I believe the Car charges the 12V battery with 14,7-14,8 V so I Think That voltage is sufficient for an AGM battery.
Excellent presentation
It's commendable that at leat the car tells you what the problem is! I've had to replace the 12V batteries in both of my previous EVs, my LEAF and my Model 3, and they do seem to give up the ghost sooner than in a gas car. I assume that this will prove a real problem -for ANY EVs- in the future, because all the telematics and software routines that depend upon the 12V battery are much more intensive and constant. I mean… every time I approach the locked car, and it extends the door handles, it's using the 12V battery! Every time! I predict that, with time, automakers will transition to better solutions. 24V? 48V? Li-ions? Gel? I'm not that worried about it. I already have a jump starter on board for when and if the 12V dies. Plus battery chargers and tenders in my garage. It's Murphy's law, after all.
This is not a problem in modern Tesla's. When parked, Tesla's will use the HV battery. From Tesla Model 4 manual: "Model 3 has an energy-saving feature that reduces the amount of energy being consumed by the displays when Model 3 is not in use. On newer vehicles, this feature is automated to provide an optimal level of energy saving. However, on older vehicles, you can control the amount of energy being consumed by the displays by touching Controls > Display > Energy Saving. For more information on maximizing range and saving energy, see Getting Maximum Range."
@@ericgregori Too bad other features of the car are so erratic. I was happy to get rid of mine.
@@Yanquetino I have had my Model Y for a year. Best car I have ever owned. I especially like the over-the-air software updates. No trips to the dealer are required.
It sounds like Hyundai is learning from its mistakes on the E-GMP platform: Hyundai says the IMA platform is a “significant advancement” over E-GMP and will enable “maximum cost reduction through economies of scale.” As the automaker explained, “Over 80 common modules can be utilized across different segments, irrespective of vehicle type, allowing for versatile combinations. This breakthrough allows for greater flexibility and efficiency in the development process, paving the way for significant cost savings.”
Hello. Is this an issue that specifically impacts the Ioniq 5 or all EVs? I'm coming from gas car and am considering purchasing the refreshed Ioniq 5 later this year, but am now worried of all the issues related to this car. Should this issue and other common issues for this car deter me from making the jump?
this is more specific to 2022 and 2023 Ioniq 5s -- hopefully the issue has been resolved with 2024 and/or 2025 model year. other EVs have had troubles here and there with the 12v but as far as i'm aware nothing like this. if you're looking at a newer 2024 or 2025 it's probably not a big concern -- just keep a 12v jumper pack in the frunk (see ioniq guy's video on using one) but you'd probably be wise to have a 12v jumper pack regardless.
In my opinion Both Kia and Hyundai tend to release the vehicles and allow the customers to complete the Testing in a variety of conditions then release soft wear updates to address different issues. This goes for all their vehicles. As for my 2022 Rav 4 Hybrid I have not had a single recall or a single software update that has had to be completed. That being said I think the Kia Hyundai brand has a lot to offer with their 100.000 Mile Warranty and their entry level price.
Great advice Corbin! Thank you!
Did your plug in monitor tell you that the 12 volt battery was dying? I thought you showed it gave a SOC or health indication for the 12 volt battery
It’s not something I regularly checked
What was your state of charge for the week it was in the garage? Did you notice lately the charging light being on at a greater frequency?
80%
My daughter’s 2019 Kia Niro EV is coming up to 5 years old on September 21, 2024. After 64,000 kms in Canada she is still using her original 12v battery and has never had a 12v battery issue.
Disclaimer: My experience may not apply to anyone else's situation. Based on early reports in the Chevy Bolt Forum, in 2017 I purchased a battery minder ($21.47) and ran it overnight once a month (the last day of each month was an easy reminder). The indicator (functioning) light was always blinking on hook up and solid the next am. I used my original 12V battery for over 6 years (when I sold the Bolt) without any glitch in battery performance. I now do the same to my Ioniq 5 and so far, at 15 months, it is still doing well. Whether this has anything to do with "removing dendrites which lead to internal short circuits" is left to the opinion of someone more knowledgeable than I. IMHO, spending $21.47 once rather than $150 every 2 years has been the better choice.
My battery failed 6 weeks ago since then it has been off the road in the dealership waiting for a replacement battery under warranty i got the car back a few days ago and i also noticed that all my reading had changed like yours according to it i have averaged 4.5 kWh over 15000 miles which is totally wrong apparently the reason it took so long to get a replacement battery is there is a shortage of them in the UK.
If i had known that i could of bought one my self I don’t think i would of bothered to get one under warranty and put up with all the hassle in the last 6 weeks and I to would advise other owners to go for that option instead of putting up with a hired car that only does 30mpg I could of easily bought one with the extra cost of the fuel I had to pay for out of my own pocket.
You didnt need to disconnect the high voltage fuse first before disconnecting the 12v battery?
2.5 years is not bad for a battery although it depends on the weather a bit.
We have been lucky on ours or we just happened to get a good battery. 52k miles on it now and still no 12V battery problems, think it said 98% SOH on a battery tester.
Sorry if this was already asked and answered but can you just put the 12v on a battery tender every few months to increase its life?
Is the key anywhere close to the car while it's been sitting? If the car senses the key nearby it won't go to deep sleep mode. There are a number of reports of people leaving their EV6 for months and coming back to it working just fine.
Just had my battery die in my ‘23 SEL AWD (32,000 mi), bought in April of ‘23, unlocked the car and all lights turned on, but didn’t turn off. I tried to start it and it immediately started sounding that ‘12v Battery Low’ warning. Currently waiting on Hyundai service lol. I guess I’ll see how we’ll go.
The issues stem from the fact that in EV'S the lead acid battery doesn't get that regular start up jolt of a heavy draw of power. LA batteries will naturally build up sulphate and that jolt helps to shake it loose.
What's needed is for a 6 monthly regeneration of the battery to remove the sulphate electrically. I'm due to do mine but I'm worried about disconnecting the battery for 12 hours for the process to complete, because I don't think that it should be done with the battery still connected.
Any ideas?
Curious as to why you did not pull the tab to disable the HV battery before you replaced the 12V
From my understanding charging AGM battery requires a different voltage than standard lead acid battery. “AGM batteries generally charge at 14.6-14.8V, not the 13.6-14.4 of standard lead acid. Charging at 14.4v will undercharge the AGM battery”
Ugh I think you’re right. Everything I read said AGM could just be dropped in but it looks like the car only outputs about 13.5V which like you said will lead to an under charged battery. But who knows maybe because AGM can handle deeper discharges and it has a wider operational range vs standard lead acid, it’ll be fine. I’m not going to drive the car this week so I’ll see what happens over the next 5 days
Do you have a video about the install in more detail? There’s a frunk in the way I don’t know how to remove!
Open the lid to the frunk and you just pull straight up on the plastic panel above the battery and it comes off
My Ioniq 5 is 01/2022. I had to call Hyundai assistance twice because the car sat dead in the garage due to a low 12V Battery. Both times my Ioniq sat dead, connected to my charger at home. The second time the battery had 3.1 Volt. Later I was told by Hyundai Belgium, to disconnect my home charger asap after charging the car and not let it sit connected. This will continue communications between the car and the charger and these might drain the 12V battery. I have been carefully disconnecting the car from my home charger since, and so far (40 days later) had no further problems. (both times the original battery was jump started, still using the original battery today)
I really wish manufacturers would stop placing parasitic drains on their batteries. Honda has this problem with Odyssey and Pilot, I got rid of them because I was flat out sick of getting stranded and replacing batteries with no possible fix for the issue.
Same here. My Ioniq 5 12v battery died after 2.5 yrs. Dealer tested and replaced at 50% discount.
Not bad!
Hmm, just before I got rid of my Prius 3 the battery died. It had 7.5 years on it's back. 2-2.5 years for those batteries in EVs seems very short (from an ICE-guy perspective) and wasteful. Not to mention the additional cost of purchasing a battery every other year. For me, buying a car is mainly a cost perspective. I have several must-haves and then I look which car fits that at what cost. EVs already have a hard time in this comparison, but having to buy batteries 3-times that often might be a complete showstopper for them in my situation.
I was hoping you’d be the unicorn to not suffer this issue and then, in turn, I could be one too. Oh well.
I started a 3 year lease of an IONIQ 5 in December of 2023. It had been on the dealer lot for 140 days, so I’m considering proactively replacing the 12v in early 2025.
I figure the dealer probably did not baby the 12v much and had doors open all the time, etc. So, I look at my 12v as already a year old.
A Hyundai technician was commenting earlier that he has heard of EV9s coming off the truck with dead batteries. Yeah I think that might be a good idea.
On a 2022 EV6, as soon as I became aware of the ICCU/12V battery issues I replaced the 12V OEM battery with a highly-rated AGM. This within the first 6 months after purchase of the car. We have had no ICCU or 12V battery issues. The ICCU was inspected per the recall last week, and no issue was found Can't say that replacing the 12V battery prevented any problems, but I considered it to be relatively cheap insurance. Why have a crap battery in an expensive EV?
I never thought I would say this but you're completely wrong in saying "we need to accept this" I do not think customers need to accept a lower quality experience than what they have become accustomed to...the truth is 1) Lower quality battery used on the I5 2) You stopped using your I5 as your daily driver and has been sitting there that caused the 12 Volt to deplete so much that YOUR ICCU did not maintain an adequate charge. This is unacceptable, EV's need to be designed to be SUPERIOR to ICE vehicles if we expect wide adoption of this technology and get ride of toxic gas ICE vehicles. This is why I returned my IONIQ 5 because I don't need to worry that my car is going to get bricked because the 12 volt dies or the ICCU is not maintaining the 12 volt properly.
I completely agree with you that it’s unacceptable that they put in a sub par battery and maybe the AGM will last longer, but what else is somebody going to do besides accept this is the reality of the situation and just replace it? Is the trouble of getting a car towed and hashing it out with a dealership to replace it worth $140? For me, absolutely not. Maybe for someone else it is. I got 2.5 years out of it. I knew it was coming and I can live with that.
I didn’t know you got rid of yours? What are you driving now?
That brand of battery is probably made side by side with other brands you'd mentioned. I would invest in a very good intelligent "trickle charger" and add a "dongle" so you can maintain the new battery - I would think that the 12v charging software is pretty much garbage. I'm aware that there's been discussion around not using battery maintainers on some of the forums but unless the car manufacturer is willing to revise the software that may be your only choice....
I’d have no issue replacing it on a scheduled timeframe, what I don’t want is to be stranded. Right now some peoples die in 6 months to never so it’s a crap shoot on when and if it will die. Hyundai needs to fix or mitigate this problem.
Could you also please link to the tools you used?
10 and 12mm socket wrench and 6 inch extension. That’s all you need
One thing I didn’t know would happen. My Ioniq 6 will just turn on the a/c when no 1 is in it to cool down the battery. So yeah…our battery will be used up more frequently
Thanks!
By all means, all Hyundai EV owners should get the recall software update done. However, don’t expect it to do anything special for your 12 V battery issues. I have a feeling the recall efforts were mostly service theater.
Boss. If I go to my closest dealer (almost 2hrs driving one way) in case my 12V battery died. Will my dealer pay for the tow truck? Assuming it is under warranty of course. Or should I just go after 2 years of purchase the ioniq5, I just go and tell them if they could please replace it? Will they replace it just because we say it to prevent the hussle for the ones that lives way far from the dealership?
I believe if they determine it’s under warranty, you can file a claim to get reimbursed for the tow but if you call Hyundai roadside assistance I think they only offer a 100% complimentary toe a few miles. Keep a 12V battery booster in you car at all times so that if you do experience this you can at least get the car started again and on your way. Either way, I’d say preemptively replace it at a couple years of age
The battery booster you mention is the same as a portable jump starter?
Yeah
@TheIoniqGuy thank you boss. I'm ordering one of those portable cable just now. I'm at my 7months of ownership. Good timing.
It’s cheap insurance to save yourself from being stranded with a pricey tow truck bill
I purchased my 22 Ioniq 5 12/31/21 and have had zero problems with my 12 volt battery. I’m a former auto tech and have lots of tools and equipment at home. After watching your video I went into my garage and tested my battery. It 0:02 specs out exactly as manufactured. 550 CCA at 12.4 volts. With that said, I only have 8,000 miles on it. I think I saw you have around 22,000 miles on your 5.
So maybe it’s not age, maybe it’s the length of time the vehicle is in the on position. I drive only short distances daily. 15 to 20 minutes once or twice daily.
Possibly when in the on position the 12 volt battery does not get charged at all or properly. It’s being discharged then when it’s back in the off position it charges.
As you stated, basically, it’s death to a lead acid battery being discharged then recharged. Food for thought anyway.
With your new battery check the voltage immediately after you have driven it after a longer drive.
Have had my Ioniq 6 for just over a year and have had no problem with my 12 volt battery.
Awesome!
Well maybe I should still consider getting it then!
@@2021PorscheTaycanTurboSOther than this 12v issue, the Ioniq cars are very nice vehicles. I’ve loved mine 🤷🏾♂️
@@reduxith I’m sure. They do seem like great EVs to me to be honest.
Is the situation any better for Kia EV cars, like the 2024 Niro?
I admittedly don’t follow Niro too much
@@TheIoniqGuy We have a new Niro, bought in February. A friend has as owned a Niro for about a year. I'll let you know if the has a similar battery issue.
Here is some 'field news' of the Niro, from an owner. He owns a 2019 Niro BEV[01st yr for the car]. It came with the original battery. I got the car 16months ago. I have replaced the battery at about 08 months into the ownership. Thankfully, the battery is easy to get to and replace [not buried like a Tesla}. No warning, just POOF no start. I could not find an AGM thru the dealer, who I had fix the battery, so its still LA. The tech admitted that Kia et al cheaped out with the stock battery to save money [or increase profits?}. My guessed recommendation? replace the stock battery with an AGM NOW before it fails 'in the rain, in a combat zone of a major city, on a long weekend'.
I guess Chevy did the right thing and used AGM 12v in the Bolt since the beginning.
I am going on 7 years with the original Bolt battery! (2107)
For the genera public, this is a problem unique to the ICCU on the Hyundai, Kia, and genesis EV's. This is not a general EV issue. The E-GMP platform has had ICCU issues since its release. Tesla's do not have this issue. Tesla replaced the 12 volt lead acid battery with a modern Lithium Ion battery in all their cars years ago.
I recently informed a 2017 Bolt owner that his car has a 12v battery and my sister’s Bolt never had issue after 4 years. Meanwhile my 2024 Kona 12v battery died after one week after I got it. It definitely looks like a Hyundai/Kia specific issue.
Kona EV is now 3 years old, my Ioniq 5 is 2.5years old. Original 12v batteries. Think I may just replace them now, rather than have it happen at the most inconvenient time. 😅. Thanks for the videos.
Here in Florida we change 12 volt batteries every 2 years because after 2 years you are on borrowed time., Doesn't matter what type of vehicle
This issue continues to plague the Ioniq 5. Clearly, to the same extent that one needs to check the tire pressure of one’s car on a regular basis, the same applies to the 12 V battery on an EV. Not on ICE car, though. You measure the CCA (or CA) of the battery when you get your EV, and compare it to its rating displayed on the battery itself. You might even get a so-so/damaged battery with the new car… As time passes, you’ll be able to see, by this regular battery health check, that it’s aging. You can replace it before it unexpectedly fails on you… It’s the same type of health check that you can do on your home’s alarm system if you don’t want it to fail on you unexpectedly. One last conclusion: If you going to leave your EV parked for two weeks, it might make sense to put a battery maintainer on the battery…
Corbin, I bit the bullet and bought a brand new 2024 Ioniq 6 about three weeks ago. I ate my own dog food and tested the 12-volt battery about two weeks ago. Interestingly, I got a voltage reading of 12.32 volts, and my battery load tester told me to recharge the battery!!! I thought that was odd since I use the car every day since I bought it. The 12-volt battery has a rating of 550 CCA. It tested at 617 CCA. This is good. I retested the battery yesterday and I got a reading of 12.5 volts. I come to the conclusion that Hyundai is using a starting battery as a “heavy-duty” accessory battery whereas an AGM battery is better suited for such task. So, yes, when the time comes, I’ll also buy an AGM battery as a replacement to the OEM’s 12-volt battery for my Ioniq 6. Tks for the video.
Thank you!
How could the failure of a 12 volt battery possibly be any sort of news?
I didn’t refer to it as news but people are here to follow my journey with my Ioniq 5, so anything that happens with it is news
I went through this exactly the same a month or so ago.
Did you replace your battery?
Interesting that you say that Hyundai told you the car was designed to use AGM, and then you backtrack and say don’t use one. I will 100% be replacing mine with an AGM when the time comes.
I ended up not returning the AGM and have been using it since with zero issue since doing so.
@@TheIoniqGuy Good to know, thanks. I have been following a Hyundai tech on Reddit that also says AGM is fine, just no lithium like you mention. AGM just makes sense, since they can handle the depth of discharge better. I’ve had a ‘24 Limited AWD for about 8 months, so hopefully my 12 V lasts another year. 🤞
It's ridiculous that they designed the car using an AGM battery and then they cheaped out. It's also ridiculous that they can't get the software integration between the main battery and 12v to maintain the 12v for longer.
My 12V died one day after the sw update 9B5. The service advisor at Hyundai explained to me that the 12V battery charges the main EV battery! I told him that doesn’t make any sense that the main battery would draw current from the 12V, but he explained that is how Hyundai does it. I am confused and asked why the orange light comes on (although I haven’t seen it after these Iccu and charging sw updates) because I thought it was the 12v battery getting charged up from the main battery. Again he told me that it was not they way Hyundai works.
I think he was right that something is draining current from the 12v battery, and they will troubleshoot it by running diagnostics. Has anyone been able to locate sources of current draw, while the vehicle is turned off?
Here is an update to my 12 V battery problem. It may confirm what others already know. I took my car in after trickle charging it for four hours to approximately 14 V although it was not 100% charged. I got to the dealer and they were unable to start the car as the 12 V battery was completely dead at 0% according to their meter. They kept it overnight. Put a new battery in and check to see if it was draining any current. They couldn’t find anything. So I don’t know if it’s solely the battery or if all the software updates are not allowing the 12 V battery to be recharged. I kind of think I haven’t seen the orange dash Light come on for weeks and makes me suspicious that the 12 V battery just isn’t being recharged anymore?!
What about the ohmmu 12V lithium battery?
I discuss that in the video
Any Idea when Tesla will let we Ioniq people start charging at their Superchargers ?
Remember they would have to prove that the 12v battery was directly related to a failure of the vehicle. As you stated you replaced yours with a battery from amazon Not a Hyundai factory battery which is completely fine
Right, but a lithium ion battery isn't like for like as lithium batteries have different internal resistance and charging preferences that are not similar to lead acid and many have their own BMS that will cut 12V power completely when fully charged.
I just feel like a customer would be able to argue putting in a new lead acid but a completely different chemistry is a stretch in my mind
Have used olm lithium 12 volt for 11,000 miles , no problems.
2.5 year old Ioniq 5 and my battery has just died. 23000km’s and I live in Sydney. I also just had the battery ICU update.
I'm in identical situation - who's your dealer? Phil Gilbert at Lidcombe says they need the car for a few days to run diagnostics, want to charge $240 for that exercise, but if battery is faulty they will replace it under warranty. We all know the fault is with the 12V charging algorithm so it may be time to threaten a class action to stop the mass consumer fraud!!
@@argystar Tynan Hyundai Sutherland is my dealer. I got NRMA to give be a jump start. They said the battery was fine. Went for a drive and topped it up over night with a slow charger. Not had a problem since. Asked to check the 12v battery on the recent service. Surprise Surprise no issues with it. Again not failed since.
@@wilkothewiz Thanks - my experience was less fortunate because as soon as the jumper source was removed the 12V low battery warning was displayed and then everything died within 10 seconds. There was no opportunity to drive anywhere or for the main battery (at 90%) to charge the 12V battery :(
get a 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery,,, the best opinion
He discussed why not to get the Ohmmu battery
@@GraysonA that doesnt mean that is fact or not to use another makes ,, he opinion right
@@MAGApepe I have no idea, but he mentioned that the car is not made to charge a lithium based battery, lithium has different resistance, and not as good as smoothing out noise on the 12V bus.
@@GraysonA pretty much all lith batteries have a Battery management system,, bms,, that protects itself and makes them a direct drop in replacement
@@MAGApepe Good to know! I didn't know that applied to the 12V.
Has anyone experienced similar issues with their ioniq 6?
Yes, Ioniq 6 owners are also having 12V problems sooner than they should
As I have said before, the average consumption isn’t the average over the mileage shown. It is only for the last 1-2 weeks. You didn’t lose anything of value.
What do you mean? I’m not referring to the range estimate. I’m referring to the 3 separate trip computers
@@TheIoniqGuy Yes. The average shown for the global total is not the average of the global total but only the average of the last 1-2 weeks. It’s misleading but that is what it is. There is no global total average.
My global total doesn’t shift more than .1-.2 m/kWh. If that were the case when winter rolls in I’d see it drop to around 2.5
@@TheIoniqGuy Interesting, because I do actually see these large swings depending on season/recent driving style. So maybe this reading is model or country specific.
tesla update to a 16v lithium ion battery that's is 1/10 size of a lead acid battery. And it design to last life time. Also, the price of making this battery is actually cheaper than lead acid battery. Whether you like Elon or not, you have to know the right information about tesla
Why don't you buy a battery charger??? And connect it regularly every month or so during the night. The 12V battery would easily last two or three times longer! I use a excellent Ctek 5A charger. Your Ioniq will be more reliable that way.
Mine died 36k miles 3 years on my kona 64kw gave me plenty or warning mind
With my wife's Tiguan I had to program it for the different battery type.
How did you do that?
Few different tools for VWs, I used carista but odbEleven is popular. I have not been able find the equivalent for Hyundai. I wonder if the dealership can program it?
No one though has explained to me how 48v makes for cheaper wiring, when 48v can electrocute you, so you cannot use the car chassis as ground.
Plus, one third party teardown found out that the windows in the cybertruck are 12v.
It cuts the amperage to deliver the same power by 4x. Even if you have to add a return cable, that would still be much less copper.
Don't forget that heat loss from electricity transmission is i^2r, so cutting the amps to 1/4th isn't quartering the heat and thus size of conductor you need,, it's 1/16thing it.
@BillyONeal look at the typical wires used all over any current car, and you'll find that they aren't big to begin with.
All you did was fall for muskovich marketing. He needed 48v only for the steering - everything else already is better off with either 12 or battery voltage.
@@sprockkets That there are advantages to higher voltages is not marketing. I^2R is not marketing. I'm not saying I necessarily think doing 48V was a good idea, only that this is the benefit one gains doing so.
(I'm far from a Musk rat. Even if I was totally convinced every car needed 48V low voltage sections I doubt Musk even knows what a volt is)
Why Teslas has not this issue?
I just received a call from Hyundai Germany to see the local repairshop because of the 12V battery. Reason: no proper charging of the 12V on board battery. Reason: problem with the onboard - must be replaced charger.
That all sounds like some really bad electrical and software engineering! Unless the vehicle battery is run down to zero, there ought to be hardware and software that will constantly monitor and maintain the 12v battery. I'm looking for an EV, but may scratch Hyundai/Kia off my list, Yes, it's a relatively minor issue, but completely inexcusable IMO.
My car is 15 months old and has 32k miles… (I drive a lot!) My battery died and I had to replace! So annoying!!
All Lithium batteries require heating elements for charging below 32 REG. F.