IONIQ 5’s 12-volt battery is dead: here's how I jump-started it
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- I came to the IONIQ 5 this morning and it wouldn’t open. Nothing! Dead! Here I show how to get it started again by using a small portable battery starter/jump starter.
You could say I’ve had a bit of experience with 12-volt batteries dying prematurely. I made three videos about it in my old Kia e-Niro. Worryingly, it looks like history’s going to repeat itself! Nooooo!
I can’t find the jump starter I have any more, but here are a couple of options that should be suitable (I haven’t tested them though!):
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3tLIuo0
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3LakBNO
And the battery monitor (which I'll show in a video soon) is here...
Amazon UK: amzn.to/32XzTnT
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3onhiJo
Tweet me: / tillathenun
Please support the channel! Please use my referral links if you're looking to change to Octopus Energy or hire an EV with Onto:
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Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
00:28 - Getting into the car
01:36 - Using the jump starter
03:49 - Turning on Utility Mode
04:39 - Why did this happen? Who knows. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I’m one step ahead of you Andrew. I’ve got my jump starter stored in the frunk! Haven’t need it so far!🤞
but can you open it if the car is dead?
@@Martinedo_ Yeah, the frunk has a manual release. That’s why it’s in there, and not in the boot!
@@chrisrowe22 great. I see you commented last year, did you have to use the starter since then?
@@Martinedo_ No, never needed it….yet! I’ve sold the Ioniq 5 now and have Tesla Model Y, but I still keep the jump starter charged up and stored in the frunk.
I had 3 batteries on my e-Niro on 112 000 km as a taxi. They were replaced free of charge. No problems on my Ioniq 5 RWD. Keep the charger in the frunk.
It really is amazing the Hyundai and Kia have not learnt from the Kona and Niro 12V disaster, especially since the Kona received and updated software to fix the issue. You would think they would have implemented a similar programming to the Ioniq 5. Also, this is why I leave my booster pack in the glove box.
*learned
I am not sure that they really acknowledged the issue.
i also had issues on the even older soul ev. so this is around since 2015 or so
They have learned, at least on the Hyundais it's in the FW-code, but something else is still going on with the EVs randomly experiencing a 12V-drain without the battery being charged accordingly. I get the message that the "aux battery has been charged" message three or four times a week and without exception if the car has not been driven for more than 24 hours.
@@paulfisher7303 the 2020 Kona Electric received an updated software that changed the 12V maintenance charging patter from several hours to every hour.
One idea is to get a deep cycle 12V marine battery rather than the "starting" batteries that all new EVs seem to come with. You don't need the high amperage kick that ICE vehicles need from a 12V starting battery. But what EVs do need is the deep cycle storage that marine batteries have. I replaced the starting battery in my Nissan Leaf with a deep cycle marine battery, and it has been golden.
Don't forget if the drive chain battery fails the essentials such as powersteering & brakes will use the accessory battery, so just make sure it'll provide the necessary current.
Thank you .The size does not change anything but it’s very confusing some manufacturers stating groos sizes some netto better sizes.
This should be sorted in the future so that anyone knows.
From the very beginning everyone was telling that the usable battery in Ioniq5 is 72.6kwh now it looks like 70 kWh even more confusing.
@@irekfilms No, the 72,6 kWh is what is made available to the driver by the BMS. It's not confusing, but why you are bringing this up in a thread about the 12V battery is...
EVs need to figure out their fucking battery charging. There is a very good electricity supply with a good working battery charger. Why would you not just charge the battery when it is going low?? I don't understand it...
@@rkan2 thats not how 12v battery cells work
Your videos are an education. As soon as I get my Ioniq 5 back (no idea how long that's going to be) I will be making use of your tips and tricks. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this video Andrew. I thought it possible I might have to do this sometime and your demo was as clear as a bell, I even have the same back up charger (having bought it for my previous Prius which gave me this problem a couple of times). I agree this is a ridiculous problem which they should have sorted out ages ago given the history on previous models.
Thanks so much. We were stuck in an underground car park in Belgium with no other option than calling for recovery until we found this video! ❤️❤️❤️ Your advice saved us!
That’s wonderful to hear! Do make sure you take your car to the dealer so they can install the BMS update. It should solve the issue going forward.
Thanks, Andrew. Ordered a jump starter as soon as I had watched this yesterday, which is now charging in readiness . . . Back in October, I asked my Hyundai dealer to charge the 12v battery as part of the PDI, as I had read of problems with the batteries discharging during transit. I was grandly told by the service manager that they couldn't, because the Ioniq 5 didn't have a 12v battery! When I sent them the relevant page from the owner manual, they then sent me an email telling me how to access the 12v battery - which I had just told them. Messaged them a week ago to ask for a firmware update; received an auto-response but nothing since, despite e-mailing a reminder. This is my first Hyundai and my first EV. On the basis of the dealer experience so far, it might well be my last Hyundai, but I like the EV driving, so thanks for your various informative videos, which encouraged me to take the plunge.
The quality of the Hyundai dealers is - to put it politely - uneven... I live in Denmark and within 50 km there's both a really, really bad and incompetent dealer (with an even worse repair shop), a fair one and an absolutely brilliant one. The good ones will help with anything and they even cooperate with the official agent to help people in a bad situation with zero warranty due to their car being unofficially imported by people speculating in the waiting lists.
I wonder if they were confusing it with the old Ioniq hybrid, which actually did not have a separate 12V battery. (I think it is weird that they took this seeming step backward.)
I keep a Battery Tender 12v charger in my garage and hook it up to the 12v terminals on my vehicle once a month or so and let it trickle charge overnight. So far, my 2018 Honda Clarity has had no 12v issues with the tiny OEM battery that Honda installed at the factory. I agree, the 12v jump pack is a must have for any owner. Simple jumper cables won't help you if your car is parked in a tight spot where a second vehicle can't pull alongside to provide a jump start.
Thanks Andrew for another refreshingly honest video. Totally agree how in this day and age where the technology you are driving is so accomplished are we still dependent on elderly lead cell 12 volt batteries to power ups he internal technology? Come on manufacturers get this sorted across the board.
Not just a Hyundai/Kia issue. The Polestar 2 has this same problem according to the many posts on the Polestar forum. I just can't wrap my head around why it's so difficult for these manufacturers to get the BMS to recharge the 12V
Whilst not a 'pure EV' the prius (yeah I know everyone hates them) has the same issues, drives me nuts, as you said why is there no simple BMS keeping the 12v recharged?
Think the issue is that despite the rest of the car evolving, they still slap in a classic, old, heavy lead acid battery for the 12v side. Think a real fix is not just BMS, but to update this to LFP instead (believe Tesla recently made this change).
@@daemorhedron No, that is a stupid idea. The reason that EV's use lead acid battery is that a 12V battery is constantly charged and discharged in both an ICE and EV cars due to alarms, and other ancillary items even when off. This means that the 12V battery is treated very badly and constantly cycled. There is often high discharge rates too.
The 12V lead acid battery is the best technology for the problem, but is still a weak link in ICE and EV cars.
People who tried to change their lead acid to any lithium technology usually kill the replacement in months, and EV battery should last between 2-5 years (like an ICE car).
I'm conviced that these BMS/SOC problems were not causing any problems in ICE's with their always running engines. The 12V equipment was needed in an EV and the whole system was just copied to the EV. Only one new module, the DC-toDC converter to charge the 12V battery. Problem: No active monitoring on stand-by or when the car is on-charge, only monitor the SOC of the 12V when driving (like in the ICU, like if controlling the load-parameters for the modern alternator in an ICU) : problem - The 12V systems of the EV drain the 12V battery more than those of a locked ICU car. These problems are fixable, given the right parameters, use-cases, budget and the WILL to solve them.
Not just to recharge, but also don't run various systems at 100% cpu load when parked. Which I'm sure they are doing. They were probably rushing these cars out of factory and were planning to fix the issue later. If ever. I remember this happened to tesla roadster in 2013 and that was a huge thing. Can't believe this is still happening.
Thankful to have found your videos. I just bought an ionic 5 and was wondering what to do if this happened. Cheers
Has happened 3 times now in our new Kia Soul. Same as yourself: after a longer journey or after at least >100 combined miles. Many thanks for your previous videos about the e Nero 12 v issue; they saved us a lot of stress. We are hoping Kia will replace the 12v battery…..
Funny i just rewatched your last 12volt video. My IoniQ 38kwh was warning me this week that it was low before completely going flat yesterday. I jump started it plugged it in at work all is fine now! Booked it in but have a 2 week wait! I have put a battery monitor on like your Niro. Thankyou very much for this great info.
Thank you so much for this! Got my Ioniq back up and running with your help. Lifesaver!
Thank you! I'm so pleased to hear that!
Very useful info as I have ordered the Ioniq5 but the wait time is long in Canada but the good thing they confirmed yesterday I will be getting a 2023 which means with all the updated .
3 years and 32,000 miles of owning my Kona without 12v battery issues. I've enabled the 12v battery saver option and occasionally see the yellow light on the H logo in the front illuminated to indicate the car is topping up the 12v battery. Lucky I guess.
not to jinx it, but same with the e-nira that is 2 months younger than Andrew's...
Lee what is "the 12v battery saver option" ? Thanks.
Thanks! This helps! We just got our car 2 days ago and I saw this warning. I just bought it from your link just in case. Have a great day!
Always enjoy your informative videos. Puzzled by the comment on recommended jump starter "Please do not start vehicles when there is less than 50% of electricity left" Maybe its lost in translation. For what its worth, I have an E niro and no problems at all (20 months)but should be collecting Ioniq 5 in April and know several people who have had battery issues.
I think this is the typical Ioniq 5 problem I have seen many times on TH-cam. Because of the charging port cover is closing to hard, the closing button is permanently pressed, which is causing a trigger loop in the software logic. So the battery gets down after some hours. So, this is a known issue, ask your Hyundai dealer. Some owners fixed this problem by fastening some pads between the charging port and the cover to prevent that the closing button is pressed by the cover.
Brilliant, that could easily explain the drain. Thank you, I will pass that on! I guess your EV6 does not have the same "feature"?
@@MovieViking No, the construction is another one and not exactly the same, but I think, I should observe this button and avoid pressing it to open the cover. I think the problem can be caused by often pressing this button, so that the restoring force decreases over the time.
This is valuable info. On behalf of every owner that might read this, thank you!
Sorry to hear you're starting a new 12v saga. Your previous series has me wondering about my Niro EV. Hope it doesn't turn into a multi-month challenge.
On an upbeat note, I love the videos with you and your wife. They're informative whilst being pure comedy. Thank you for the great content! ☺️🍻
I have had the problem with a Prius PHEV and understand it happens with the VW ID3 as well.
My wife's 66 reg Kia EV Soul has been having 12V battery issues, found it dead a few times over recent months, even had to jump start it from my diesel once. Bought the battery jumper you recommended, used it for the first time today, and it worked a treat👍
Great to hear!
I’ve had this happen twice in 2 years with our e-Niro. As others have pointed out this is almost certainly a software fault as all batteries go flat it not being charged. The second time I bought a fancy jump start battery but it failed to fix the issue as its logic required some voltage to sense it was corrected correctly. The recovery man brought something similar which failed too - but his had an override button that fixed the issue. I was going again in only a minute or two. I so wish I’d noted the model of jump starter.
Thanks for the link on what to buy, I've ordered it!
Ordered the jump starter from your link. Have a BMW i3 and many owners have also had 12V issues. Good idea to have this at the ready.
Thanks Andrew. Would you recommend updating to a better quality 12v battery? I pick mine up in a week.
Looking in from the outside this is almost a rite of passage for every EV i.e. the 12V battery causing issues. Thanks for keeping us informed.
On my 2nd BMW I3, current one almost 4 years old, never a day’s problem with 12v. Given that many people had a similar problem with eniro it’s about time Kia/Hyundai sorted this problem which is all down to battery management. Inexcusable!!
@@jhawkins2049 I've read about the early VW ID.3 issues and James May's Tesla Model S having 12v issues. I also see the Model S Plaid has a different 12v solution. As you say it isn't the most difficult problem to solve on an EV Platform.
@@jhawkins2049 The question of 12V issues in the E Niro is a myth. I suspect that Andrew has drained his 12V with accessories attached with the motor and utility mode off or failed to close a door/boot. The E Niro is the second most popular EV in UK and EU so lots have been sold, including to naive new EV owners. Some - TLDR the manual - assume that the car’s electrics are always powered by the bloody great 64kWh traction battery. They use accessories, infotainment, lights etc with the motor or utility mode off and they drain the 12V battery. ALL 12V car batteries will perform badly if they are drained including EVs. I. this video Andrew admits the E Niro fault only occurred after he had drained the 12V by using an attached accessory. Two polls about 12V batteries on the E Niro owner’s group (2500 members) proved that less than 10% of members had any issue. All the individual posts complaining about the 12V in the group eventually admit they drained the 12V from ignorance.
@@ellistreloar2047 fair point, but I still think there’s a problem. There’s no such thing as utility mode in the i3. I use infotainment, lights etc etc as much as any eniro owner and have never experienced any 12v problems whatsoever.
The car is sitting on a huge battery reserve. It should be a simple fix for the drive battery to keep the 12v topped up as and when necessary. There is no reason whatsoever for people to be able to drain the 12v. Utility mode or whatever should be completely unnecessary, as it is with BMW. It’s all down to software and proper battery management.
It’s a disgrace that people with £45k cars are buying battery monitors and jump starters. Mine will be going straight back to the dealer.
@@jhawkins2049 The point I’m making is that the number of people reporting 12V problems in the E Niro group is less than 10% and going by the individual posts faults are caused by owner’s error. 90+% owners have no need to run utility mode to keep the 12V topped up. The E Niro BMS regularly tops put the 12V either whilst driving or when the car is parked, as necessary. During my winter monitoring when we were driving only short journeys, 4-8 miles, I observed the BMS maintaining the 12V between 65 and 90% SoC with charging typically taking place overnight. I would regularly see a single green battery light flashing on the dash from outside the car, which indicates this mode.
Great job Andrew !👍
After reading loads and loads of rambling forum threads and a bucket full of videos none of which really helped I found your video. Wonderful, and thank you so much for sharing a simple, straightforward solution.
Cheers, Simon
Great to hear, thank you.
I had the same issue with a 2022 Toyota RAV4 PHEV. Drove 200 miles and parked up on holiday for a week and didn’t use the car. When I went to load our cases the 12v battery was completely flat. Couldn’t open the boot or doors electronically. Had to use the emergency procedure to get in the car and then use jump leads to put the car in ready mode.
Took it Toyota who kept it overnight but said the battery was ok, and advised that it was ‘normal’ for electric cars! I went straight to Halfords to buy a battery pack like yours which fits in the glove box (don’t keep it in the boot!).
A couple of months later when we took the car in for a service we were told it needed a software update to tackle a 12v battery problem- surprise surprise:). Haven’t had the issue since but having the battery box in the glovebox sure is reassuring.
Thanks for this video and sorry to see you continue to have problems with sub standard 12V lead acid batteries and poor battery management software in the Kia eNiro and now the Hyundai Ioniq 5. Hope Kia & Hyundai sort this out soon. One thing you mentioned is to press the brake pedal before pressing the Start button to put it in Ready mode so that the electronics don’t drain the 12V battery. Is this the same as the Utility mode? What’s the difference between the two? I searched Lia documentation but can’t find an explanation.
Hiya Andrew, I had a test drive in the Ioniq5 yesterday, was just about to go out and put my deposit on an ultimate RWD now I'm not so sure.Keep up the good work I think that you are one of the most honest helpful and informative person on TH-cam,your videos are excellent.
Thanks very much!
The wait time is so long for any EV right now, by the time you get it I'm sure it'll be fixed. Hyundai have acknowledged elsewhere (not to me, yet) that they're aware of a 12v issue and have been able to reproduce it. So fingers crossed, they'll sort it soon.
@@MrEV Thank-you for your quick response, I do like the car it's the best EV out there at the moment. I test drove both the EV6 and the ID4 and the Ioniq5 blows both of them clean out the water. At the moment I have a Toyota CHR and it's a great car was tempted to wait for the BZ4 but I want something with more battery life. 🔋
My new KIA EV6 has the same problem. I had the problem once with my E-Niro got no start but a swarm of false alarms.
My dealer recommended that I charge the 12 volt battery often with a traditional charger during the winter.
He said that the system goes crazy when the voltage goes too low (11 volt he guessed).
He also said that every time you open a door or punch in with the app the car wakes up the 12 volt system for 30-40 minutes. That seems to deplete the battery without waking the "charge me" signal.
Good luck!
I had exactly same problem with my KIA e soul, had RAC come out and apply power to the existing battery to start the car, the chap then changed the battery for a better model. Like you I also bought a jumper.
I have a battery in my Mitsubishi Colt Ralliart and it’s original from 2008! I cannot believe that it still works in the Swedish winter. Btw, my Ioniq 5 should arrive in march! So exited! 😁
I have deployed homeassistant and used the Kia and Hyundai plug in. Gives me lovely live(ish) and historic data of the 12v and much more.
Oh no! That's a real Victor Meldrew moment isn't it?!
Andrew I can't thank you enough for being one of those people to whom **it always happens...!
We are also of that persuasion and its so good to see how you deal with these things... including learning that perhaps the glove box is a better place to store the jump starter. 😂 Especially as we're neither of us as young slim and limber as yourself.
Still another 18 months or so before we can make the change but I'm kind of leaning towards a secondhand Ioniq Premium 28kW as the best car for us, boot could be a problem but overall the pros outweigh that con.
Good luck with the 12v, let it not be saga eh?!
Had this exact issue on mine, but realised after that I had stupidly sat in shopping park, waiting for the boss, with the radio on and my dash cam without being in ready or utility mode.
I got a traditional jump start from a neighbour and now keep jump leads in the frunk, but after typing this will be clicking on your link to grab a battery... thank you :-)
Good advice, will put my order in for a jump starter, have an i3 so have been lucky
I had the 12v battery fail on our Soul. My jump start pack (which was identical to yours) wasn't powerful enough to hold the relay closed for the main battery to take over. In my case the battery had dropped to about 9v. Maybe if the 12v battery is low enough it sucks all the power from the jump start pack preventing the 12v system rising high enough for the 400v battery to take over. In the end I managed to get the system back to normal by using a 12v battery charger for 30 minutes. I now carry a battery charger as well as the jump start unit. I provided Kia with the graph off the voltage monitor app which they appreciated but even having had the car for a week they couldn't find the problem. The car has run since for 6 weeks without a problem but like you I don't trust it not to fail again.
Thank you so much for posting this video, I used this to jump start my ioniq 5,
ThAnk You👍🏼 Worked like a charm. So relieving that it wasnt as hard as on my previous gas car. Brilliant.
Unbelievable how this is an issue on EV's. Thanks for this video. It brings awareness to the issue.
Why couldn't they have a built-in battery monitor that would alert you that the battery is critically low? Even better have a module that automatically comes on to top up the 12V from the high voltage/bigger battery. The smartest minds at Tesla couldn't fix this? sheeesh.
Hi Andrew my Ioniq5 12v woes continue. Hyundai Assist(AA) out four times in two days! They confirmed the 12v was goosed and not accepting a charge. My dealer would not accept the AA findings and said to book my car in…..six weeks until the earliest slot. I have just simply replaced the duff battery for a new one.
What is interesting the last AA patrol guy told me he was part of a team called in to help do PDI checks at Tilbury docks as Hyundai themselves could not cope with the work. He said the amount of replacement parts including main batteries was astonishing.
As I mentioned before a great video. Keep on posting. You and your family keep safe.
What a ridiculous situation. Hyundai really need to pull their finger out and use better batteries - it must be costing them a fortune, both financially and in terms of brand damage.
I hope things improve for you now you have a new 12v.
I've been anticipating this issue with my modest vauxhall Corsa,after seeing your problems,but no issues so far.
I'm really surprised to hear there are 12v battery issues with the current car of EVs. My 2017 e-Golf has an AGM battery and has never given me any issues. The car will turn off the radio if the level starts to get low, but putting the car in Ready mode starts the recharging process. Thanks for the video.
We've had 12V issues with our 22kwh Zoe - never been completely flat, but eventually traced weird intermittent electrical issues to a low ish 12v battery. Replaced it myself and problems went away. Think I worked out there was a time I was sitting in it reading a book while waiting for a rapid charge - kept opening the door to keep interior light on when the car went to sleep. I realise now this caused a big drain on the 12V battery which probably wasn't getting charged even though the car was plugged in and charging.🤦♂️
This happened to classic Ioniq's as well but thought they fixed it with the Aux Battery saver option which my car has on by default and works all the time never had any issue with 12v on my classic Ioniq 2019 model. Is there some setting to keep the 12v aux battery charged off the main battery? Odd they didn't sort it from Kona/Ioniq issue with new Ioniq 5 but one reason I try to avoid being first to get a new model, like to wait a year or two for all the bugs to come out and get fixed prior to considering one, no matter which car it is.
Thanks for showing us what to do. I have already bought a 12V battery jump starter, but I'd buried it for safe keeping right at the bottom of my e-Niro's boot. Having seen you have to go over the back to get it I realised I would have had real problems getting it out of the boot in an emergency🤔 Have now put it in a bag just floating around at the back of the car.
I thought the same thing. I reckon I'll store mine in the glove box, just in case!
I would have thought that the most obvious place to store would be the Frunk - right next to the battery. If you have an AWD, you're not going to get much more in there :)
@@moomintroll2067 yes, that would be the best place, but the e-Niro doesn't come with a frunk. I'll add it to my Christmas present wish list!
Does the ioniq5 have a battery saver mode via the steering wheel buttons as in my old ioniq
The jump pack is great, lesson is keep it in the glove box. Shocked the 12 Volt i snot topped up by the main battery charger, pretty poor oversight. Good thing you are well prepared.
Yes, that does seem pretty darn stupid since it happens when the car is driven.
I have had the same problem with my Ford Fusion hybrid, which uses the 12v battery to run the computer and contactors for the high voltage battery. I have a similar device for the occasional emergencies. Sorry to hear that this happens with the P45 but not surprised.
Hi,
I've posted about this several times on Speak EV. My Ioniq38 had a similar issue and was in the dealer 4 times with dead 12v, I was about to trade it in as I was so fed up with it. However, in the nick of time, the 4th time this happened, by a fluke I noticed that one front door was locked and the was unlocked (this may have been the case on the earlier occasions but was not noticed). This gave an error code to the dealer saying there was an issue with one door lock. What was happening was water ingress into the front doors past the glass as normal was impinging on non waterproofed electrics (the mechanic said he had never seen that before on any car usually there is at least a plastic shield to protect the electrics). The car thought the door was open due to the water droplet(s) bridging the contacts and kept the car awake. I was getting lots of "you have left the doors unlocked messages" through bluelink which I had dismissed as nonsense since I could see the mirrors were folded in...... So the dealer waterproofed the door electrics and I haven't had a problem since. If this happens after rain or washing your car then look out! One time the AA came and were actually measuring a 2A vampire drain but couldn't say or didn't have the time to diagnose where it was coming from, they said the dealer will have to diagnose that. So, one close of the door, the droplet falls away and hey presto the evidence is gone! No idea why the error code didn't flag the other 3 times... "Friday afternoon manufacturing error" or not I can't say, as I know lots of people have similar issues but have said that at the time it happened to them it was dry.
2A vampiric drain isn't good, that'll drain (potentially to the point of being dead) a 12V in under a day :(
n.b. you shouldn't discharge lead acid batteries more than 50% (unless they are "Leisure" batteries Andrew mentioned), normal car batteries are considered to be “fully discharged” at 10.5 volts, discharging them further allows lead sulfate crystals to form that can't re-dissolve in the sulfuric acid, effectively shortening the lifespan of the battery in an empirically measurable way.
@@CED99 Agreed. That vampire drain killed the 12volt, the dealer replaced it under warranty
Hi Andrew. Thanks for the video. My ioniq 5 RWD 77K 12 v battery went flat the other day. Yellow light on dash lit up and I determined that it was being charged on its own from the big battery. BUT current problem is, since this, I can't get the vehicle to charge! Plug in the evse and nothing happens. No timers set. Dealer bewildered. Tried with category 1 and and 2 evse plug but not dc fast charge. Hoping to try this at some point. Any ideas on this one??
Thank you so much, this just happened to us and we had no idea what to do until we saw your very helpful and easy to follow video....what a legend you are! The car is charging as I type.
That’s great to hear. Sorry you’ve had trouble with the 12v though! Do talk to Hyundai and make sure you have the latest firmware update which should reduce the likelihood of the issue.
th-cam.com/video/YmfkvL_O1IA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks so much, btw great easy to understand videos so thank you! @@MrEV
Great video for a bad problem. Waiting for ever for my Ioniq5 but bought one of these from your Amazon referral.
Thanks.
Thanks Phil!
Can you back charge the 12v battery using the 12v ports from the cabin? If it just needs small amounts of power to get going, that should work?
I bought a 12V USB charger socket which also has a readout of the battery voltage. It's usually showing around 14.8V when I check it.
Hi Andrew I have a 40kwh leaf I noticed the other month when my car was off and parked up not connected to the mains that it suddenly had a blue light flashing on the dash. It appears that the 12 volt battery is monitored and the main battery will keep it topped up if it gets too low in voltage. I think the first leaf used to have a little solar panel to keep the 12 volt topped up also but they have done away with these.
Would LiFePO4 work better than lead acid? It has a flatter discharge curve. Why not have a spare (weekly) charged battery in the frunk and get terminal extenders just in case?
Same issue with my ioniq 5, was off the road for over 6 weeks waiting on parts from Korea. Was told that it was faulty charge door actuator and on board charger
Mate, I could almost dive into my computer screen and give you a big hug! I have a BYD Atto 3 here in Western Australia and have heard that there problems with the 12V lead acid battery used by BYD. This problem however is not limited to BYD as I've heard that Tesla, MG and now from your video, KIA have this problem too. Your video is absolutely invaluable to me. I'm just going on eBay and have found a Baseus unit which offers 3 different output currents so I'll just select the cheaper 8000 mAH version rather that the 20000 mAH version. Do you think that replacing the LA battery to a Lithium unit would be the answer to all of this? THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!
My Nissan LEAF was 9 years old before I changed the 12v battery. It was still working fine, but I would notice the right blue dash light flashing more often, which was the car topping it up.
Very useful video sir. Thank you for sharing. I will be ready when I acquire an EV.
Andrew, we get our I5 next week on the 1st March - lucky us - so I've just ordered both the gadgets so we can keep on eye on the 12V and jump the car if needed. Thanks for the tip.
Congratulations! You’ll love it. Do make sure your dealer installs the latest (February) update though as it fixes some nasty bugs. Refuse to pick up the car if they don’t!
I use the same jump starter gadget but i always forget the order in which you need to do things with the little button on the side of the black plug in
Most people in Norway (and here in Sweden) that had this happen reported that they had used Bluelink to open charge port. Somehow motor keeps drawing power then. So weird!
I had that with my classic Ioniq PHEV. The sensor in the trunk hatch was stuck and left the light on in the trunk. I quickly recognized that, because I had something similar with an Audi long time ago and the analysis cost me two weeks in the garage back in the days. I uncluttered the lock sensor and everything was fine except it did not charge, because - like here - the electronics runs on 12V. So I charged the battery for 15 minutes and then plugged the car into the charger, afterwards the drive battery charged up the 12V and everything was fine ... however 2 years later it turns out that the 12V was actually damaged by deeply draining it.
I should have added in my comment a thanks for showing how to remove the cover over the battery. I cannot find this in the owner's manual. They talk a lot about charging the battery and removing connections but not access to the battery.
Great video Andrew, thank you! I've recently had the same problem with our MG ZS ! I'm looking to get a booster pack but there's so many choices! What would you recommend as a minimum amp output for a booster pack?
It's a minefield isn't it? Apparently anything should work. EVs don't require much juice to get them going again as there's no engine that needs turning over.
No need to spend too much. This one looks like a pretty good deal and is highly rated: amzn.to/3LJfaZ4
Thanks for taking the time to reply Andrew, much appreciated!
Thanks for the link, I'll have a look at the one you suggested!
Watching with interest as I'm about to order an Ioniq 5 very soon, I will get my backup jumper too! At 2:29 you can see the battery rating plate - Hyundai are definitely fitting ICE starter batteries to their EVs, as your battery has a CCA (cold cranking amps) rating of 550A, which is all about the current surge it can supply to crank a starter motor. Totally unneccesary for an EV. The batttery should be a deep-cycle type, which will provide a steady current output for much longer than a starter motor of equal Ah capacity, or even better a Li-Ion type with greater capacity and less weight.
But even so, there is clear a system design issue here. The 12V battery shouldn't be getting allowed to go flat at all, since charging of the main battery seems to depend on it. Would be interesting to see how Hyundai/KIA have modelled the partitioning between the high voltage drive system and the low voltage electrical system, 'cos they are definitely missing something.
an Odyssey deep-cycle battery (AGM) would be good for that.
I had the same problem with my wife's EV6 having it for just 2 days, now I also bought a small battery charger that is in the armrest storage.
Another great video from this channel. As I don’t own an EV I had no idea about the 12 volt battery nightmare. I’m so conflicted about EVs with their pros and cons. Watching you have to climb through to the boot and yank plastic covers off from under the bonnet doesn’t help, yet this honest and gritty delivery technique helps me process and prepare what I might be up for. How does battery management compare across brands? Can I assume Tesla owners don’t have the same problem as Hyundai owners or is this misguided? Thanks for sharing your lived experience - keep it up.
Tesla also has a 12v battery to run all the electronics.
can you replacer the lead acid battery with a lithium type with a small solar panel to keep it topped up?
Thanks Andrew same issue with my Kona and the e Niro. My car was fine until the ECU was reflashed with update.
I'm still on the "green software" with the e-Niro. This issue never happened to me and now that I read your comment, I'll keep the old software indefinitely...
Due to get an ioniq 5 in April and now I’m dreading it! I work away a lot and I hope this doesn’t happen 😬 thanks for the video.
Don’t dread it! You’ll love the car, just get that battery starter just in case. Also, I have one of the first ones - there’s a good chance they’ll have fixed any issues by the time you get yours.
@@MrEV Thanks for the reply! I hope you’re right, you would like to think that they’ve sorted it. Keep the videos coming. I love learning new things about the ioniq 5. 😊
First time I hear of this. Had a Kia Soul for 3 years, no issues even when it sat for 3 months. On the I5 I see the amber light come on showing it's charging the 12v while stationary. I never park the car overnight with less than 50% charge.
Maybe keep the booster in the front storage. Weakest link.. I purchased a similar booster. for the Niro-EV . Not needed in the almost 3 years I've had the car. Handy thing as my Lincoln hybrid car might need it. I've replaced several batteries over the past 10 years. They suddenly go so flat that there are no interior lights and there is an Airbag warning light.
One morning our diesel tractor had a flat battery. I used that booster to just to test it (supposedly it should start a 4 cylinder gas car) . The booster did not have enough juice to to turn the starter but I could hear the fuel pump and fuel heater buzz. Probably good enough to turn on the 12 volt relay on a BEV.
Great video, I googled the reason EV car still uses 12v battery, lead acid battery to boot. There are actually some very legit reasons. One of the major reason is so your main lithium ion battery will not brick and costing you $20k-$40k to replace.
Sorry you have to endure 12v battery a little longer until engineers figure out a good cheap solution for this. Meanwhile, I'm going to get that battery jump starter you recommended. Looks very handy even for ICE cars.
My 2017 Ioniq has a 12v battery saver mode, does the new ioniq have this? It doesn’t come set “on” from the factory. I found it buried in the settings.
Apologies if I missed it, do you work out why the battery went flat? lack of charging with main low battery? or using the OBD port?
I've absolutely no idea yet. I had nothing plugged-in, no lights on. I'm monitoring the 12v now so I'll keep an eye on it and report back.
Good information thank you. I have not had a problem with my 3s 12 volt battery. It is now about 4 years old. This is about when the original 12 volt would fail on a ICE car. I wonder if it is covered under the Tesla 8 year 130000 mile drivetrain warranty.
We cut the power at all MV accidents. Now I know where it is.. thanks.
Hi got one in my old mgev now its in my e niro just incase lol cheers keep up the good work
There always seems to be these 12v issues with newly released EVs. The ID.3 was the same although they’ve fixed that with an update now - I still have a BT 12v monitor attached to mine just in case though.
Nissan Leafs were supposed to have this problem and many folks experienced it but my leaf is over 6 years old now and I've (so far) never had a problem. I did get the version with the solar spoiler which trickle charges the 12v so I do wonder if that has helped. I have no idea if that is still working though it gets pretty grubby!! Think I better get ones of those jump starters just in case anyway they don't cost much now. Thanks for the reminder!
Your correct, it’s crazy , Honda E had same problem
Thanks for the information as I thought that the 12v would have been automatically charged or topped up once it got to a certain point while the car was charging. Unless the car we intend to buy next year has a 12v lithium battery as standard I'm afraid it'll be the first thing I'll be changing when we get it. I know it probably seems daft of me to do this to a new car but I would have thought they'd be a standard feature as you're been powered by lithium anyway and just for the convenience of fully charging it in a couple of hours instead of overnight.
It is not alway the batteries that fail, most of the time something is fooling the car to not shut down (and charge the 12V as necessary) or an either logical or mechanical vampire drain. Such a drain could also easily brick your lithium 12V overnight.
Omg thanks for heads up. I have Ioniq 5
Thanks for the video. Can you jump start the 12v battery with the V2L (vehicle to load) plug? Just curious.
Sadly not.
Have you considered adding a remote battery kill switch (used in old petrol cars having parasitic battery drain)
i have 64% battery after I did your jump cable test.. I was able to turn on the car. but when unhooked the jumper cable. the car turns off.. how did your turn stay on?
I just had this problem with my Niro, garage says everything is OK, which it obviously isn't! Thanks for this video, I've just ordered the jump starter 😃
Thanks!
Frustrating situation. I’m not sure about the Niro but if it’s like the IONIQ 5, there’ll be a BMS update available for the dealer to do which should help fix it. Trying to get them to do anything is the hard part!
@@MrEV Ha, it should be the garage that mentions the BMS update, not some random guy from TH-cam 😆
Question Andrew: If you say the the port charger door draws 12 volt power when opened, and your timer did not kick in, would it be possible that’s how the 12v drained? Just asking!
Funnily enough, Hyundai called me today and did confirm there are two possible issues: charging module and the charging door when closed - it presses on the 'close' button. Since the door was open, it's unlikely that caused the issue in my case so it's more likely to be the charging module.
I'll report back!
Do you leave the Monitor connected whilst using the booster?? thanks for video.
You can jump start the battery with the monitor connected, yes.
How did you open the charge door? Others have discovered the opening of the door via the app ends up draining the 12v battery.
I thought you also had a bm2 battery monitor? It should give you an idea if it died after opening the charge door.
We have not had the 12v issue (yet) but carry a booster in the frunk for that reason, I'm sure you'll be keeping yours there going forward.
I had this exact problem on day 1 and day 2 when I just got my Ioniq 5. The 12V battery measured 3 volts. I should have known about the utility mode, the old fashioned mechanic with the jumpstarter said that I should have a drive for half an hour.
I think that the battery management system for the 12V battery is not turned on often enough. It should turn on periodically to charge the 12V, because the 12V is also used to update the remote control systems via the Bluelink app. My Bluelink app didn't tell me anything about the 12V battery when it happened to me. The dealership measured the 12V battery a few days later, they said that everything was fine. I actually never had this problem again afterwards.
I have the Kona , had the same problem twice now, took it back to the dealer "Nothing wrong mate". So anyway I now keep the backup battery under the front seat now, but it shouldn't be necessary at all. Clearly there is a design/ software issue as there was now warning via the app.
Great video. Tnx for your info
It would be a good idea to keep jump starter in the frunk?