I use this stuff on everything, all my vehicles, all my friends and family's vehicles, four wheelers, mowers, door hinges. I love it. I mix in a little clean 15w40 engine oil into the fluid film for vehicle undercoating. It works great!
I do live in Canada too. It’s the worst country so far for vehicles, machinery, any metal equipment which are subjected to its weather. To the point that even inside your house, like door laches tools in bags, etc… they go rusty if you don’t treat them. I learned hard lesson by neglecting my vehicle and not rustproofing it, after some years, the jack points side of frame literally fell off like a sand. It was a big mess and finally the vehicle made its way to junk yard. It’s a big investment in a long run if you take care of your vehicle by rustproofing every year. It’s just a price of couple pack of beers anyways. You doing a great job here. Whether the vehicle is new or old, it needs to be protected from this awful humid/ street salt and it’s elements . I recommend to anyone reading this Not To Neglect you car like i did.
You're entirely right! Up here in Canada we get a lot of salted roads and lots of swings in temp/moisture/precipitation and things definitely rust if you don't take care of them.
Nice job! I use the black version, because it's easier to see where I have sprayed... plus it covers over the rust better for a little while. I usually spray as late into the season as possible, so it doesn't get washed off with rain... So what I do is make a double boiler out of an old pot and hotplate from the dollar store... I put the gallon in the pot with water... I check every 10 minutes or so and stir until the wool wax reaches 100F. I can then pour without slapping the funnel and it goes on so quickly.
Nice tips. I haven't seen the black version up here yet in stores, whereas most carry the original. Other than the slow pour, the spraying even when cold with this sprayer has worked well...but I have heard warming it up can make it spray even better.
Just don’t want to wait too long, once the salt is down, you start sealing it in, I know a couple places around where I live stop doing it as soon as the first salting is done.
@@steved8714 Best time to rustproof is every spring when the weather warms up. This stuff doesn't seal in salt. You are talking about a rubberized coating. Those are garbage and should never be used.
The bubbling from the aerosol cans is the propellant boiling off. I'm pretty sure. I'm not a rocket scientist but I did stay at a holiday inn express. I'm in Canada and on rennlist as well. I'm using corrosion free for my rust proofing but may switch to fluid film when my corrosion free runs out. To mask the smell of FF, I bought a glade plug in air freshener refill which is basically scented oil and mixed it into the product. Now it smells like apple cinnamon
05:39 100% correct If you want it done right, do it yourself. Because of time constraints, I've paid nearly $500 to have 2 vehicles initially coated with FF and none were done as thorough as I would have expected for that price. I still applied more to missed areas when I got the cars home. Good video! I use Fluid film Woolwax, NHOU, and PB SS as well as Amsoil MP HD. All do a really good job, WW for wheel wells is def. better. But any initial coat I like FF since it creeps so well.
of course brand new vehicle is always better but it will work on whatever condition. applying anything is better than doing nothing! it will at least slow down the rust
I have the same gun but use rust check. Also in Canada and it’s worked great for my vehicles over the years. You should pull the plugs in rockers and spray in there as well. Also the inner fender panels, bottoms of the doors etc.
The set-up minus compressor is about what a shop would charge, I'd imagine. I'm definitely going to get set-up with this, as I like older vehicles and road treatments seem to get more and more corrosive each year.
Yup, a gallon is usually $50-75 or so, sprayer is $50-100. A single gallon can do 2-3 vehicles first time depending on size. So after the first year, you're really looking at $20/year to rust proof a vehicle. Well worth it!
Bought multiple spray cans of the black one. Really nice adhesion to spots, skirt corners behind the wheels, at the bottom corner below every door hinge etc. Also i'd rather have black spots of oil than exposed rust lmao.
I've heard Wool Wax which is similar - also lanolin based doesn't smell as bad. And I think they claim it's a bit thicker and stays on better. Hard to get though, online only I think. I got to try it out.
The bubbling when using spray cans comes from the liquid propellant gas that the fluid film is mixed with. in the can. It evaporates and creates bubbles when it gets out into normal atmospheric pressure.
use a drill and paint stiring attachment and it will pour easily, you can't mix it good enough with a stick , also ya can leave the cans in hot water for 30 min before and it will spray much better
How would you recommend washing the undercoating after applying the fluid film? I'm in Michigan, and I'm buying a new 2023 car. I want to protect it with fluid film, but should I not use a pressure washer to wash the undercarriage after applying it? If I should wash it, I read that people said it'd take it off... and if it does take it off, should I re apply it every 6 months.. every year? If you can help, I'd really appreciate your opinion and time.
Yes, it will wear off with pressure washing, not all at once but eventually will. Frankly I don't bother washing under the vehicles in winter, it's just driving more moisture into places IMO. I apply fluid film once yearly in the fall.
It's best applied to relatively clean undercarriage. Mostly want to get any serious build up off, since it will never actually get down to the metal to protect it...but you also don't have to be completely spotless. It can be damp when applied (not dripping wet) so keep that in mind too.
@@SomeGuysGarage Thanks.. But I was not asking about application, I was asking if you wash the undercarriage of your vehicle during winter AFTER the product is already applied to it..
@@can-cruiser Oh sorry, I misunderstood. No, I've never washed the undercarriage of the vehicle during the winter (or ever really lol I only wash the top side maybe once or twice in the winter).
Hey Dude, thanks for the vid. It was very helpful. @9:51, you were talking about 'access holes'. How do we know if a certain hole is an access hole and not a hole that is not supposed to be sprayed into? OR Can we just spray into every hole we can find and we will be safe? Ty 4 the reply!
Almost anything in the frame/body is okay. If it looks like steel inside, go for it. Just avoid exhaust, heat shields, and anything that passes through to interior.
For the smell, I read someone say that they mixed a Glade air freshener in the Fluid Film before application, and it left their vehicle smelling like apple cinnamon. I'm not sure if that's true though, and I wonder if you could mix a small bottle or two of essential oils if you wanted to do something similar (and it might help thin the Fluid Film a bit for application).
@@jacksonvang2946 gallons just determine how long you can run without the compressor kicking on. Pretty much all compressors will have enough psi to spray, just the bigger the compressor, the longer you can spray without stopping.
Start doing it when the vehicle is new so it doesn't rust :) But just wash off the underside, don't bother scraping/grinding away any rust, and coat right over top. This stuff will soak in, it's not a paint, so prep to clean metal isn't required to stop further rusting.
I have the lemmer rp100 gun. I think its the same. My quick connector to the wands started leaking on the 2nd year of use. Anyone else have issues witn the quick connect?
Welcome I don't clean the gun out, just leave it with whatevers left but making sure it's standing up when stored...I do blow the spray wands out though (just with a normal air blow gun).
@@torontoguy8043 I have a 60 gallon 5hp Ingersoll Rand two stage...it's a big one, but a smaller one could work. I do use 80-90psi which is higher than recommended but sprays better.
@ thanks for the quick response. I found the same gun and its accessories for sale on amazon. I think I will buy it. Would a 8 gallon air compressor work with this gun? I will also spray fluid film
@@torontoguy8043 technically yes, you'll just have to slow down to let it catch up once and a while. Think of the spray gun like an air blow gun, it uses similar amounts of air. Also, I left some links to amazon in the vid description, not sure if it's the same one, but have a look just in case!
@ one last question, how important is CFM when using this gun with a 6 gallon pancake compressor or a 8 gallon hotdog compressor. will I run into any issues?
@@torontoguy8043 CFM of the compressor is how fast it will recover when you draw down the tank, CFM of the spray gun is how much it will use while in use. If your compressor CFM is greater than the tools CFM, then you will generally not have to wait for the compressor at all. If it's less, then you'll sometimes have to wait for the compressor to build back up before starting to spray again.
Hey bro its me again, my spray gun(identical to yours) was delivered today. On the instructions, it says “ a pressure regulator gauge must be used”. Is a pressure regulator gauge a must to have? I don’t have one. Thanks again.
@ by the way, could you please recommend an ideal hose inner diameter for my setup? my air compressor is 8 gallon. is 1/4 inch inner diameter ok or is 3/8 inch inner diameter good? or does it not really matter? thanks again
@@torontoguy8043 3/8" hose with 1/4" ends is the standard and what you'll easily find out there. Smaller 1/4" hose is used for very low draw tools, like air brushing or micro die grinders or similar.
I haven't had any issues with bushings or rubber parts swelling, but I don't actively try to spray them. The big thing is it won't hurt paint or other materials and won't drip, it's quite a good product.
@@SomeGuysGarage Thanks,,I've got the cheap one already. I used it once with very little FF coming out. I found a hack that they pressurized the pot with zerk fittings going from the sprayer to the pot. I'm going to up the pressure at my own risk and loosen the fitting on the wand. Thanks
@@SomeGuysGarage thank you for the response. What about using high temperature paint or high temperature ceramic coat on the exhaust system? can that work?
@@alvinanthel2757 I'm sure there could be options of high temp exhaust coatings, but it's almost never worth it...most exhaust components are stainless steel of various grades (some better than others, hence the low grade ones will still get corrosion), so they should hold up alright without coating. Even if you could do the outside, the exhaust gasses (which have a lot of moisture in them) will corrode it from the inside out just as quickly.
the single most important aspect of this video is...... have a hoist. doing this stuff without a hoist is brutal and borderline impossible to do it well. if you don't have a hoist kicking around your garage, i don't know what to tell you, but good luck.
6 ton jack stands (enough height but still stable) and a creeper...it's how I used to work on vehicles before I had a lift, not as pleasant but totally workable.
Por 15 works great been using it for 25 years, clean important, use in a gun with a tad of reducer and spray pre treatment Ammonia they sell to turn rust to neg ION if rusty, use to be cheap but not anymore. Price And don,t forget your Body Flush HAHA
Ok, practically speaking, you can't coat every single square inch of your vehicle in it...so yes, something is bound to rust eventually. However, realistically speaking, if you keep up with coating, the stuff coated will outlive the useful life of the vehicle.
Lots of tests on TH-cam. Used motor oil is terrible at preventing rust. Fluid Film consistent comes out on top of compounds that stay tacky. The only thing that might be better is Cosmoline that essentially dries and is more durable. Cosmoline needs much more prep and is more expensive though.
@@peterscott2662 agreed! Fluid Film is easy to get, easy to apply, and safe to work with too...as a DIY product it's awesome, but there are a few other good options out there too...like the guy who mentioned the POR products. @ProjectFarm has also done some great comparison testing!
Can I ask you which woke province you are living? Because in my province of socialist Ontario the corrupt government put a lot of salt on the roads. I am curious if fluid film better than Krown rustproof.
Anyone else using this stuff? It's awesome!
I use this stuff on everything, all my vehicles, all my friends and family's vehicles, four wheelers, mowers, door hinges. I love it. I mix in a little clean 15w40 engine oil into the fluid film for vehicle undercoating. It works great!
I use corrosion free 3000.. Canadian product
Use fluid film for working on everything. Do the larger undercoat job with Surface Shield it lasts longer and does not slump as much
Yeah surface shield is a better product, better than fluid film!
Krown.
I do live in Canada too. It’s the worst country so far for vehicles, machinery, any metal equipment which are subjected to its weather. To the point that even inside your house, like door laches tools in bags, etc… they go rusty if you don’t treat them.
I learned hard lesson by neglecting my vehicle and not rustproofing it, after some years, the jack points side of frame literally fell off like a sand. It was a big mess and finally the vehicle made its way to junk yard.
It’s a big investment in a long run if you take care of your vehicle by rustproofing every year. It’s just a price of couple pack of beers anyways.
You doing a great job here. Whether the vehicle is new or old, it needs to be protected from this awful humid/ street salt and it’s elements .
I recommend to anyone reading this Not To Neglect you car like i did.
You're entirely right! Up here in Canada we get a lot of salted roads and lots of swings in temp/moisture/precipitation and things definitely rust if you don't take care of them.
Nice job! I use the black version, because it's easier to see where I have sprayed... plus it covers over the rust better for a little while. I usually spray as late into the season as possible, so it doesn't get washed off with rain... So what I do is make a double boiler out of an old pot and hotplate from the dollar store... I put the gallon in the pot with water... I check every 10 minutes or so and stir until the wool wax reaches 100F. I can then pour without slapping the funnel and it goes on so quickly.
Nice tips. I haven't seen the black version up here yet in stores, whereas most carry the original. Other than the slow pour, the spraying even when cold with this sprayer has worked well...but I have heard warming it up can make it spray even better.
Just don’t want to wait too long, once the salt is down, you start sealing it in, I know a couple places around where I live stop doing it as soon as the first salting is done.
Can u spray then on car coil over to prevent rust?
@@steved8714 Best time to rustproof is every spring when the weather warms up. This stuff doesn't seal in salt. You are talking about a rubberized coating. Those are garbage and should never be used.
The bubbling from the aerosol cans is the propellant boiling off. I'm pretty sure. I'm not a rocket scientist but I did stay at a holiday inn express. I'm in Canada and on rennlist as well. I'm using corrosion free for my rust proofing but may switch to fluid film when my corrosion free runs out. To mask the smell of FF, I bought a glade plug in air freshener refill which is basically scented oil and mixed it into the product. Now it smells like apple cinnamon
That's awesome, apple cinnamon rust proofing :)
05:39 100% correct If you want it done right, do it yourself. Because of time constraints, I've paid nearly $500 to have 2 vehicles initially coated with FF and none were done as thorough as I would have expected for that price. I still applied more to missed areas when I got the cars home. Good video! I use Fluid film Woolwax, NHOU, and PB SS as well as Amsoil MP HD. All do a really good job, WW for wheel wells is def. better. But any initial coat I like FF since it creeps so well.
Agreed! I'm a big proponent of DIY, you can take your time and do things right.
Can it be sprayed over rust or should it be used on new vehicle's only?
of course brand new vehicle is always better but it will work on whatever condition. applying anything is better than doing nothing! it will at least slow down the rust
I have the same gun but use rust check. Also in Canada and it’s worked great for my vehicles over the years. You should pull the plugs in rockers and spray in there as well. Also the inner fender panels, bottoms of the doors etc.
Yup, I have done more than what's shown in the video, definitely want to get into every little cavity you can, great tip for those reading this!
I even remove the front and rear bumper covers headlight and tail lights. I agree, Canadian winters suck.
@@georgespoirier481 same here. When I hear people saying 2-4 cans to do an entire vehicle I kinda laugh. Better than nothing I guess
Love me a good Fluid Film video 😁
Hell ya brother, we all do!
woah, just realized what channel you are...thanks for stopping in and watching :)
The set-up minus compressor is about what a shop would charge, I'd imagine. I'm definitely going to get set-up with this, as I like older vehicles and road treatments seem to get more and more corrosive each year.
Yup, a gallon is usually $50-75 or so, sprayer is $50-100. A single gallon can do 2-3 vehicles first time depending on size. So after the first year, you're really looking at $20/year to rust proof a vehicle. Well worth it!
My Ram gets a blast of this every year....I did my big drill press sitting in an open quonset this year
It works so well! I use it on my mill, lathe, drill press, and even lawn mower for the winter too...not just for vehicles.
Bought multiple spray cans of the black one.
Really nice adhesion to spots, skirt corners behind the wheels, at the bottom corner below every door hinge etc.
Also i'd rather have black spots of oil than exposed rust lmao.
Yup, nice they have the black option too these days...glad to hear it's working for you, black spots and all lol
I've heard Wool Wax which is similar - also lanolin based doesn't smell as bad. And I think they claim it's a bit thicker and stays on better. Hard to get though, online only I think. I got to try it out.
Yup, Fluid Film is wool wax lanolin base, so ya, same idea...just probably different mixes of exact ingredients.
The bubbling when using spray cans comes from the liquid propellant gas that the fluid film is mixed with. in the can. It evaporates and creates bubbles when it gets out into normal atmospheric pressure.
That makes sense :) thanks for adding that!
use a drill and paint stiring attachment and it will pour easily, you can't mix it good enough with a stick , also ya can leave the cans in hot water for 30 min before and it will spray much better
Good tip...it doesn't separate too much, but a drill stir would definitely do a better job!
Start by taking off all of the plastic inner wheel wells and door plugs and clean the underside very well. I use Surface Shield myself.
Good tips...especially for the first application!
How would you recommend washing the undercoating after applying the fluid film? I'm in Michigan, and I'm buying a new 2023 car. I want to protect it with fluid film, but should I not use a pressure washer to wash the undercarriage after applying it? If I should wash it, I read that people said it'd take it off... and if it does take it off, should I re apply it every 6 months.. every year? If you can help, I'd really appreciate your opinion and time.
Yes, it will wear off with pressure washing, not all at once but eventually will. Frankly I don't bother washing under the vehicles in winter, it's just driving more moisture into places IMO. I apply fluid film once yearly in the fall.
Do you wash off the salt and grime from the undercarriage of your car during winter, or do you just leave it be knowing it's covered with the product?
It's best applied to relatively clean undercarriage. Mostly want to get any serious build up off, since it will never actually get down to the metal to protect it...but you also don't have to be completely spotless. It can be damp when applied (not dripping wet) so keep that in mind too.
@@SomeGuysGarage Thanks.. But I was not asking about application, I was asking if you wash the undercarriage of your vehicle during winter AFTER the product is already applied to it..
@@can-cruiser Oh sorry, I misunderstood. No, I've never washed the undercarriage of the vehicle during the winter (or ever really lol I only wash the top side maybe once or twice in the winter).
Hey Dude, thanks for the vid. It was very helpful. @9:51, you were talking about 'access holes'. How do we know if a certain hole is an access hole and not a hole that is not supposed to be sprayed into?
OR
Can we just spray into every hole we can find and we will be safe?
Ty 4 the reply!
Almost anything in the frame/body is okay. If it looks like steel inside, go for it.
Just avoid exhaust, heat shields, and anything that passes through to interior.
Spraying into every hole you can find is always risky, god only knows how many illegitimate children you’ll have out there.
For the smell, I read someone say that they mixed a Glade air freshener in the Fluid Film before application, and it left their vehicle smelling like apple cinnamon. I'm not sure if that's true though, and I wonder if you could mix a small bottle or two of essential oils if you wanted to do something similar (and it might help thin the Fluid Film a bit for application).
Entirely possible...the smell doesn't bother me but for someone who doesn't like it those might be worth a shot and I can't see the harm in it either!
Would you suggest removing existing rust before doing this procedure?
Light surface rust? Probably not.
Flaking/heavy rust? Yes, but the vehicle likely needs more work at that point than a coat of rust proofing.
Do I need a 30 gallons air tank to push out rite PSI to spray it out ?
@@jacksonvang2946 gallons just determine how long you can run without the compressor kicking on. Pretty much all compressors will have enough psi to spray, just the bigger the compressor, the longer you can spray without stopping.
@SomeGuysGarage Thank you ! I love All your video too. Do more pls.
@jacksonvang2946 thanks, always working on them! Doing something I haven't done before in the next week or two for a new video, so watch for that :)
Can you buy the hoses separate that you have because the kit that I have I do not care for need something thin
@@leardi58 I haven't seen them, but you could probably use clear tubing
I just finished my truck using cans
Hopefully it holds (Canada)
And yeah it does smell
How many cans did it take?
I don't mind the smell :)
Rustiest thing is the oil plug! I also spray the dust plate for the rotors being careful not to get the caliper and rotor.
Those pesky splash shields rust out no matter what you do, just like exhaust, all the heat cycling.
@@SomeGuysGarage Damn it! Just give me this one that will work!
Is my little porter cable 6 gal pancake compressor enough for this gun?
@@steve8803 you'll have to stop every few min to let it catch up, but ya, this thing isn't too air hungry that you couldn't make it work
Have you noticed it soften any finishes at all? Paint on the undercarriage, any rubber boots, brake lines etc.? Does it soften anything long term?
Not anything I've noticed, vehicle in the video is getting on 8 years now, still all good!
@@SomeGuysGarage alrighty, thanks for the reply!
@@jakeb9520 welcome :) thanks for stopping by!
So its easy. If you have a vehicle with no rust. Who has that? Advice on prepping the typical rusty vehicle? Thank you.
Start doing it when the vehicle is new so it doesn't rust :)
But just wash off the underside, don't bother scraping/grinding away any rust, and coat right over top. This stuff will soak in, it's not a paint, so prep to clean metal isn't required to stop further rusting.
I have the lemmer rp100 gun. I think its the same.
My quick connector to the wands started leaking on the 2nd year of use.
Anyone else have issues witn the quick connect?
Not here...there should be an o-ring in there somewhere though, check it's seated properly and not torn.
Does this sprayer have a flow adjustment it looks similar to one on ebay here in the states
Not that I'm aware of or have adjusted in the past, just adjust airflow
Hey thanks for the vid. I just bought the same gun. My question is how do you clean it....or do we need to?
Welcome
I don't clean the gun out, just leave it with whatevers left but making sure it's standing up when stored...I do blow the spray wands out though (just with a normal air blow gun).
Excellente many thanks
@@jeanmarcblanchet7393welcome, if you have any other questions, happy to help :)
Thanks for the great vid. Do I need to put a primer/paint pre or post coating with Fluid Film?
Nope, it's just a rust protection coating for pre-finished metal surfaces...on vehicles the frame and such should have been coated originally
@@SomeGuysGarage Thank you!
what size was your air compressor? and what PSI did you use?
@@torontoguy8043 I have a 60 gallon 5hp Ingersoll Rand two stage...it's a big one, but a smaller one could work. I do use 80-90psi which is higher than recommended but sprays better.
@ thanks for the quick response. I found the same gun and its accessories for sale on amazon. I think I will buy it.
Would a 8 gallon air compressor work with this gun? I will also spray fluid film
@@torontoguy8043 technically yes, you'll just have to slow down to let it catch up once and a while. Think of the spray gun like an air blow gun, it uses similar amounts of air.
Also, I left some links to amazon in the vid description, not sure if it's the same one, but have a look just in case!
What pressure do you set your compressor to for this gun application?
Depends on what your spray gun states...but I'm usually up 80-90psi.
@@SomeGuysGarage Thanks.
would a 6 gallon pancake compressor or 8 gallon hotdog compressor work with your gun to spray fluid film? thanks
See other answer, but yes...just have to slow down, it uses similar air to a blow gun.
@@SomeGuysGarage awesome, thanks so much for your help. appreciate it
@@torontoguy8043 welcome, good luck!
@ one last question, how important is CFM when using this gun with a 6 gallon pancake compressor or a 8 gallon hotdog compressor. will I run into any issues?
@@torontoguy8043 CFM of the compressor is how fast it will recover when you draw down the tank, CFM of the spray gun is how much it will use while in use. If your compressor CFM is greater than the tools CFM, then you will generally not have to wait for the compressor at all. If it's less, then you'll sometimes have to wait for the compressor to build back up before starting to spray again.
I have the same gun, it won't spay surface shield at 80psi am i missing something? It came with no instructions. Did i just get a dud gun?
I do run it higher than recommended pressure...do so at your own risk...but I spray unthinned cold fluid film with no issues this way.
Where did you buy the spray gun ? Thank you
Napa up here in Canada...you can get it on amazon.ca but not .com it's an underbody spray gun.
Here's a link: amzn.to/3RQnl8r
Hey bro its me again, my spray gun(identical to yours) was delivered today. On the instructions, it says “ a pressure regulator gauge must be used”.
Is a pressure regulator gauge a must to have? I don’t have one. Thanks again.
@@torontoguy8043 should just be the regulator on your air compressor (I've never seen a small compressor without one), doesn't need to be external
@ understood, thank you
@ by the way, could you please recommend an ideal hose inner diameter for my setup? my air compressor is 8 gallon. is 1/4 inch inner diameter ok or is 3/8 inch inner diameter good? or does it not really matter? thanks again
@@torontoguy8043 3/8" hose with 1/4" ends is the standard and what you'll easily find out there. Smaller 1/4" hose is used for very low draw tools, like air brushing or micro die grinders or similar.
@ thanks so much, you are a lifesaver
FluidFilm is safe for any kind of suspension parts. only soft door seals are not safe. the squishy stuff.
I haven't had any issues with bushings or rubber parts swelling, but I don't actively try to spray them. The big thing is it won't hurt paint or other materials and won't drip, it's quite a good product.
Man,, you got good presure and coverage out of that sprayer.
What psi did you spray at ?
@@driver902 higher than recommended, 80-90psi static on the line... do so at own risk 🤪
@@SomeGuysGarage
Thanks,,I've got the cheap one already. I used it once with very little FF coming out. I found a hack that they pressurized the pot with zerk fittings going from the sprayer to the pot. I'm going to up the pressure at my own risk and loosen the fitting on the wand.
Thanks
@@SomeGuysGarageah that’s why. Mine doesn’t spray anything out at the recommended 40psi
@@WyattH yeah, you'd have to thin it to get it to spray at lower psi
What pressure do you spray at?
Depends on the gun, though I find a little bump up from this ones recommended pressure helps.
why shouldn't you apply to the exhaust?
Exhaust gets hot, it will burn off the first time you drive it and make a lot of smoke and slight fire risk.
@@SomeGuysGarage thank you for the response. What about using high temperature paint or high temperature ceramic coat on the exhaust system? can that work?
@@alvinanthel2757 I'm sure there could be options of high temp exhaust coatings, but it's almost never worth it...most exhaust components are stainless steel of various grades (some better than others, hence the low grade ones will still get corrosion), so they should hold up alright without coating. Even if you could do the outside, the exhaust gasses (which have a lot of moisture in them) will corrode it from the inside out just as quickly.
the single most important aspect of this video is...... have a hoist. doing this stuff without a hoist is brutal and borderline impossible to do it well. if you don't have a hoist kicking around your garage, i don't know what to tell you, but good luck.
6 ton jack stands (enough height but still stable) and a creeper...it's how I used to work on vehicles before I had a lift, not as pleasant but totally workable.
Thanks for the video.
welcome, hope it was helpful! :)
Cans of fluid film are now $18.99 at canadian tie. Sucha a large jump in a short time. Welcome too greedflation.
You can still sometimes find them for $10-12 at princess auto or peavey mart on sale.
Just checked, peavey mart has them on for $13 right now...that's something at least
@@SomeGuysGarage It seems they read your comment. They jacked the price to 18.99$, to match CT.
@@amunkhufu yeah, probably supplier pricing is up...they do still go on sale for less though.
Stuff works great but has gone way up in price unfortunately. $16CAD/can now 😢
Or even $18...but wait for sales, can go down to $10-12. Watch princess auto and peavey mart and canadian tire
$10 a can on Amazon
TY!
Welcome :)
I use POR415. One and done.
I've heard good things about the POR products too, haven't tried them myself though.
@@SomeGuysGarage I have been using it for years and have had no dramas. Your method and product work no doubt though
@@rickchowsr2532 right on, will have to check it out one of these days :) Thanks!
Por 15 works great been using it for 25 years, clean important, use in a gun with a tad of reducer and spray pre treatment Ammonia they sell to turn rust to neg ION if rusty, use to be cheap but not anymore. Price And don,t forget your Body Flush HAHA
NEVER?
Ok, practically speaking, you can't coat every single square inch of your vehicle in it...so yes, something is bound to rust eventually.
However, realistically speaking, if you keep up with coating, the stuff coated will outlive the useful life of the vehicle.
Used engine oil only way to go
No way...drippy mess that doesn't stay on.
Though is cheap lol
Lots of tests on TH-cam. Used motor oil is terrible at preventing rust. Fluid Film consistent comes out on top of compounds that stay tacky. The only thing that might be better is Cosmoline that essentially dries and is more durable. Cosmoline needs much more prep and is more expensive though.
@@peterscott2662 agreed! Fluid Film is easy to get, easy to apply, and safe to work with too...as a DIY product it's awesome, but there are a few other good options out there too...like the guy who mentioned the POR products.
@ProjectFarm has also done some great comparison testing!
Nope
Why
@@kenj.8897
Can I ask you which woke province you are living? Because in my province of socialist Ontario the corrupt government put a lot of salt on the roads. I am curious if fluid film better than Krown rustproof.
I assure you we get a salt bath here all winter long...fluid film does an amazing job keeping it at bay.
dude. never heard anyone call dougie a socialist.....