Great video especially the video quality and narration for the belt replacement including repositioning the guard. I have some tips here 1) unplug the spark plug wire whenever working the blade 2) use a vice grip to clamp the fuel line when tipping 3) adjusting the rear wheels temporarily will provide socket access to the screws behind the rear wheels for the guard 4) although not the video purpose, sharpen the blade on a grinder while it is off. Lastly, nice of you to be a good neighbor.
I didn't reed to replace the belt. Good thing, my undercarriage had the belt hood on it which it looks like you'd already removed for this video. So my fix was simply to go and loosen the transmission cable locking nut, push the transmission cable toward the engine, as you showed early-on in this video, then lock that nut back down again. I replaced the blade in the same session. It's like a whole new mower now.
great video-- I followed some other video and got the part from Amazon, but the belt was too tight to go on both pulleys - this video clearly explained how you can do it... thanks
Thanks for the video. Yours is more helpful that the one by Toro! This is the exact configuration for my mower. I guess I am lucky that my belt had lasted 10 years. I'll throw in a couple tips. First, if you are having problems removing the side srcews for the baffle, move the rear wheel beyond the highest setting and the wheel will be out of the way. Then it's not much trouble to remove screws from both sides and get the whole baffle out of the way. My owners manual recomends tightening the blade bolt to 60 ft-lbs. This is where a 6-12 inch piece of 2x4 is very useful for holding the blade from turning while tightening/torquing as shown in the owners manual.
Thanks! My Toro lost power drive with about 15 feet left on my lawn. I thought it had jumped off or jammed on the "clutch" end of the mechanism, but couldnt figure out how to get to it to fix it. You gave me the information and its running great now. Thanks again.
Thanks for saving me a ton of time today! My belt was in good shape but somehow came off the wheel by the gear box. I honestly don't know how it worked itself off. I'm thinking a stick wedged in there just right. Long story short I disassembled just like you did and put the belt back on and reassembled. It works good again and the belt tension seems good to me! Just in case I noted the belt part number. Thanks again!!
This video saved me today. The belt broke half way through my cut and I didn't know what was going on. It was smoking and not propelling. Fortunately, my local hardware store had the right belt and I got it fixed in time to finish the cut. Thanks so much!
just replaced the belt on my Toro Personal Pace lawn mower with the help of this video, lawn mower is back up and running again..thank you for the very helpful video!!
Thanks for the great video. Very informative and loved the trick of loosening the rear guard to turn the transmission for access to the cover versus the hassle of removing/disassembling the wheels. Big time saver.
Thanks for the video! These lawnmower videos have really helped. Some of your up close shots are great. The belt isn’t my problem, but still helpful. My personal pace quit working, too. Looks like that black bracket on the gear box that the spring on the end of the cable is attached to isn’t attached anymore. Looks like the bracket is the only thing moving when I move the handle, not good. Going to have to find another video to see how the bracket attaches to the trans and why mine isn’t attached anymore. Thanks, again!
This was exactly what I needed, thanks. The belt had gotten stuck between the pulley and housing on the back end. It was still in good shape, so it didn't need replacing. I was running over a lot of sticks when it happened, so I must have gotten a twig in there that spun it off or something.
@@hdkevin4387 Yeah, I would have never figured all those parts to move, or that stupid square drive, otherwise. It took me an hour and a half to find all the right tools, and get it all apart, but seven minutes to put it all back!
Thanks, very helpful when I thought I broke my Dad's mower. Didn't need to replace the drive belt, it was just jammed with a stick, but your video really helped access the problem area.
Hey, everybody, here's a hint. Rake and pick up sticks that fall out of trees. They seem to cut or mulch easily, but a chunk the size of a short pencil can ruin a belt if it gets stuck in the pulley.
What Robert Blake said. If you have a lot of junk( sticks, rocks, etc.) sooner or later something gets between belt & pulley. Takes less than 1/2 hour to put on new belt with this video.And that’s the first time !
Glad I went for the FWD version of this machine,seen a lot of videos of the RWD with a ton of different problems and they usually require more work and more parts.
@@hdkevin4387 Yes I am satisfied with the machine and it does propel very good wouldn't know how good it would be on a hilly property but for flat yards like mine it actually gives me a workout.
5:53 why they used square screws are beyond me. They will be stripped by 2-3rd belt change. I've only changed my belt once on my 2010 toro recyler 20332
Ok, here is some critical information, for those of us, with an electric/pull start system, and the black battery box on the deck of the mower. Ok, YES, there is a bolt underneath the box. But, it is towards the back of the mower, and you will see a slightly raised section of the box, that does not touch the deck, but sit's above it, about 1/4-3/8". The bolt you have to access is, literally in that notch, towards the backside of the black box/mower. And, I have found, that the box is riveted to the deck. So, for full access, you will have to rip the box off of the top of the deck, revealing 2 of the 3 bolts, as the 2nd bolt is, along the left side of the black battery box, just underneath the side front corner. But, if you are able to remove all of the plastic covers off of the back, including the flapper, for the bag. As, the top of the flapper for the bag hatch, is literally what has you blinded from seeing the bolt in the first place, besides the battery box itself. And, since I can't start it with the key anymore(Long story short, the cable harness was ripped out of the key starter switch, and ruined it), so it's pretty useless to me, at the moment. So, I decided to just rip the black box itself off. Which, made it much more simpler to access all 3 bolt's, for the plastic belt guard underneath. Also, it is a good idea to take a plastic bag(Walmart bags will do fine), and use it underneath the gas cap, by taking the cap off, then draping the bag(Double layer, by using whole bag) over the open hole, then screw the cap back on, and you now have a sealed gas cap, from leaking...
Thanks man. Great video and saved me some money. My belt fell off but it is a little loose so may need to replace in near future but this was very helpful. Thanks again!!
Great job on that. Thanks a lot. Will see what else you did on the 20332. Hoping you changed plugs, air filter, and any thing else needed when mower is hard as heck to start. I have my second one of these mowers and they are terrific. But, get hard as heck to start even on warm day.
Interesting. Mine worked flawlessly for probably 5-6 years but all of a sudden mine has started giving me problems when starting at times. When I bag the grass I'm stopping numerous times to empty the bag. Sometimes starts on the first pull and other times it will take 3-4 pulls. I can't put my finger on it. It's like it gets a little flooded. I've got the 20334 model which looks almost identical to the 20332.
@@wisbacks Take your fuel system apart from the gas tank hose to the carb and clean it thoroughly. Use a very small wire to clean the ports on the carb. What works best is the wire that comes wrapped around a bread loaf. Strip the colored part of it off to get to the wire. Also get one of those small fuel filters and a couple of clamps and install it in your fuel line. Change it each year and it will solve a lot of starting problems. I've been there done that a couple of times with my Briggs engine on my Toro.
@@hdkevin4387 That is true. I did spend a day organizing my tool boxes and bags and of course I found the right sockets. So next time I will know better. It's been about 2 weeks since I replaced the belt, and it's working as expected. Thanks again for the video.
This was a very helpful video I did a little motion sickness from the Camera moving around a bunch. It could’ve been me though with the lawnmower cocked on an angle and some gas dripping out I might’ve gotten a little dizzy from that haha
That was very helpful. Have new belt and new blade going on my 4 yr old Toro PP Lawnmower. Am sure I could have figured it out, but like the way you didn't have to take rear wheels off.. Probably not a bad idea anyway to grease those gears up. Now, if you can figure out how to keep from wearing out a $60 grass catcher, that would be nice. They last about 2 years for me.
Just as I was finishing my front yard the mower self propel stopped and there was like a screaming when I would try to engage it, I'm thinking something's going on with the belt. Hate to tear it apart but looks like I got to. I'm hoping your video helps. thanks Kevin
Thanks to your video I was able to change the belt on my Toro 20332 Self Propelled mower. Now, the back wheels run by themselves and much too fast. I tried adjusting the wire on the side handle both ways and the mower still wants to run by itself. What am I missing? Is it possible I stretched the cable when I struggled to put the spring back on? What would cause the wheels to run by themselves?
Hello. You’re very welcome. It means the belt is too tight. Well the cable could be pinched if you had to struggle with it. Does it move freely back and forth? Also could the belt be the wrong size? If it’s too small it will bite on the pulley even if not engaged. Could the spring be misaligned perhaps?
Wondering if you got this figured out? I literally just did this today. I'm wondering if maybe the wire going to the gear box got kinked making it shorter and and in rest position the drive is already engaged. I know getting that spring reconnected was a pain in the butt for me!! I would watch the part again where he reconnects the spring to make sure the position is correct. I know I made a mental note of that when I was reassembling.
The repair description is great. There is a repaired model. Broken rear pivot arm nut hole. How can I fix it? No matter how much I search on the internet, I can't find the part. please. (model 20340 (7.25/163cc)
Thanks. I was wondering about greasing the rear drive system. Any pointers? I’m getting some grinding when I try to go up big hills. Both drive wheels have good gears, so I’m thinking it’s a dry ratcheting mechanism somewhere.
Word of advice, to not have to fight with that spacer, just use a bit of grease on the backside, that is closest to the blade, as it act's as a suction cup, to hold it in place. While, not making it a permanent fix to the bottom of the cylinder it sit's in...
Did you have any trouble getting the belt cover back on because I can't get mine back on. I can't get the screws to line up. Do I have to take the blade off in order to get it on
I have a 28 year old Lawnboy Gold series made by Toro where the entire belt is on the top of the deck . The belt and the 3 speed transmission have never failed in all that time and I cut a 1/4 acre once a week. Why can't they make them like that anymore? Planed obsolescence ? Except for cleaning and greasing the small drive gears so they will slip when going backwards and replacing the wheels when they wore out and split the drive train has been trouble free. What recently failed the blower housing from metal fatigue where it bolted to the engine from so many pull starts and I replaced the pull cord itself once.
Be sure to check your model # . This belt is for 2009 and up. Just drove myself crazy for 2hours wondering what's going on bc I needed a bigger 91-2258 belt is about 2" bigger
Thanks for the video. I have a personal pace from 2015 and the belt just now needs changing. But...there is no way that can be the correct blade for that mower. It should fit the entire width of the holding carrier that it sets in. That blade looks to narrow.
Square 'Robinson' heads are not a hard find. A square recess is a good choice here because the recess goes deeper than with the more popular screw drives. This means you can apply a decent amount of torque to undo stubborn, crudded up screws, without risking 'cam out'. Clean out any grass from the recess first, to ensure you make use of the full depth. The Pastite thread is also an interesting choice, given the screw doesn't thread into plastic. Perhaps it was chosen to help resist vibration loosening.
Thanks for the video, I found it after I had already replaced my slipped and chewed up belt. I replaced belt with identical OEM belt and it lasted about a month and new belt slipped off again, what should I be adjusting to increase tension of the new new belt before I replace it again?
Simple...the pulleys are worn so even a new belt runs looser than it should. The pulley on the mower shaft takes most of the wear so replace it (about $25) and this should help eliminate the problem.
That's exactly what happens to mine quite frequently! I always thought Toro was a good brand but now I wonder! The repair shop charges me over $60 to pick it up and replace the belt it. Gonna look for something else. Any suggestions please?
I can only think a component could be bent that is causing contact to the belt? I adjusted the belt guard under the mower deck and it hasn't had any problems since. Did you do your last repair or did the repair shop perform it?
@@hdkevin4387 Hi Kevin, thanks for answering back! I don't know anything about lawnmowers so the Toro guy in my town picks it up, charges me for that and for repairing. It's only 3 years old and last summer he claimed the transmission went out and that was almost $400! I don't want to put any more money into it, so I'm kinda stuck.... Thanks for your help!
@@susan5301 you’re welcome! I have a lawnboy that has been excellent the last 10 years. It doesn’t have the personal pace, but it has been very reliable
@@hdkevin4387 if you have a small yard 1/4 or less i would suggest a Ego battery mower. Cost about $ 500 but i've had mine 5 years and zero problems. No gas to buy or store. I love it.
We have an older Torrell probably 15 years old. It’s a little over engineered. Had to takeoff nine different pieces including the wheels to get the belt off. It’s a monster
To remove the bolts holding the clippings chute just rotate the wheels to a different position as though you are changing cutting height for each bolt and you can take the bolts out with conventional socket and ratchet wrench. I removed the clippings chute completely, not sure about just bending it back out the way. I'm concerned it might crack or tear or somehow be distorted. Worked OK in this video to bend it back. But, you never know. Not that much harder to just remove it completely.
Kevin, Have you ever compared that Personal Pace Toro from HD to the same model from a Toro dealer? I have one from the dealer and noticed several differences (minor) differences in this video. My mower is seven years old so that my be the reason. I just wonder if the HD model cuts any corners on quality.
My belt keeps coming off on the drive cable end of my 20332. I’ve tried two new different belts. The last one I tried was toro original. Any tips on how to fix this?
Brilliant. This is even easier than it was trying to get the local Ace to fix it. I haven't used My mower more than 5 or 6 times and already have to change the belt. Is there a TRICK to keeping it from happening so quick next time?
I have the same mower, Same thing happened to my belt in the first year. I replaced the belt like you did. 2nd year the cable broke. I replaced that. Now it won't move forward again. Belt is in tact. The tires and gear all look fine. The wheels won't spin at all. This model is trash, they should do a recall on it. We had a different mower that lasted 15yrs before the gears on the wheels went bad and it needed replacing.
@@hdkevin4387 yes, but even with the old belt I pulled the cable up and def over tensioned it but the wheels would not spin at all (even when lifted off the ground)
@@johnames6430 I’m trying to trace back in my head from the wheel…. Turn it over and hand spin the wheel forward and see where the last point of motion is. That may point you to the culprit
I can get the blade bolt off, but that plate underneath it is stuck on. I've beat the heck out of it underneath with a hammer and have trying prying it. Tried wd40 and PB Blaster.
@@hdkevin4387 Thanks. I was able to get the belt on and off without removing that blade mount. Only removed the blade. I have some other problems with the mower though. 1. The plate that the wheel screw goes into stripped so I bought another plate, but I can't get the old one off. It's the "yellowish" bare metal piece. 2. The spring under the push handle that pushes it back towards you broke. I bought a new one but can't figure out how to get the spring off/on that rod that it wraps around. Also one of the bolts holding that belt guard, and thus holding the engine, snapped off. I need to buy a bolt extractor.
Great video especially the video quality and narration for the belt replacement including repositioning the guard. I have some tips here 1) unplug the spark plug wire whenever working the blade 2) use a vice grip to clamp the fuel line when tipping 3) adjusting the rear wheels temporarily will provide socket access to the screws behind the rear wheels for the guard 4) although not the video purpose, sharpen the blade on a grinder while it is off. Lastly, nice of you to be a good neighbor.
Thank you kindly for the compliment!
The blade angle should be at 35° I'v made several templates. One cardboard and one a 4" wide aluminum one
Reference #2 The oil is more of a problem. Always tip the deck carb side UP.
Excellent video: thorough, comprehensive and detailed right down to the wrenches and sizes required for each step.
Thank you for the compliment!
I didn't reed to replace the belt. Good thing, my undercarriage had the belt hood on it which it looks like you'd already removed for this video. So my fix was simply to go and loosen the transmission cable locking nut, push the transmission cable toward the engine, as you showed early-on in this video, then lock that nut back down again. I replaced the blade in the same session. It's like a whole new mower now.
Awesome! Great to hear!
great video-- I followed some other video and got the part from Amazon, but the belt was too tight to go on both pulleys - this video clearly explained how you can do it... thanks
Thanks for the video. Yours is more helpful that the one by Toro! This is the exact configuration for my mower. I guess I am lucky that my belt had lasted 10 years.
I'll throw in a couple tips. First, if you are having problems removing the side srcews for the baffle, move the rear wheel beyond the highest setting and the wheel will be out of the way. Then it's not much trouble to remove screws from both sides and get the whole baffle out of the way. My owners manual recomends tightening the blade bolt to 60 ft-lbs. This is where a 6-12 inch piece of 2x4 is very useful for holding the blade from turning while tightening/torquing as shown in the owners manual.
Great tips! Everyone will benefit from them. Thank you!
Thanks! My Toro lost power drive with about 15 feet left on my lawn. I thought it had jumped off or jammed on the "clutch" end of the mechanism, but couldnt figure out how to get to it to fix it. You gave me the information and its running great now. Thanks again.
Thanks for listing the belt number. Was having a heck of a time finding a good number for it
You’re very welcome!!
Thank you . I just learned what I was not doing to get the belt straight . I needed to move that guard . 👍
You are very welcome!
Thanks for saving me a ton of time today! My belt was in good shape but somehow came off the wheel by the gear box. I honestly don't know how it worked itself off. I'm thinking a stick wedged in there just right. Long story short I disassembled just like you did and put the belt back on and reassembled. It works good again and the belt tension seems good to me! Just in case I noted the belt part number. Thanks again!!
Thank You! Very helpful. Don't Forget to remove the spark plug wire before starting this repair!
You’re welcome! And you’re absolutely right! Big fault on my part w the plug
It won't start if the bar on the handle isn't engaged .
@@glenthecarguy You really going to trust loosing some fingers based on that? If nothing else, just pull the plug wire off.
This video saved me today. The belt broke half way through my cut and I didn't know what was going on. It was smoking and not propelling. Fortunately, my local hardware store had the right belt and I got it fixed in time to finish the cut. Thanks so much!
Awesome! You’re very welcome!!!
just replaced the belt on my Toro Personal Pace lawn mower with the help of this video, lawn mower is back up and running again..thank you for the very helpful video!!
Do you recall the specific belt you used?
You are very welcome!
@@charliestoner9606 115-4669
I was able to correct the problems my self-propel system was having from watching this video .Thanks for guiding me through.
You are very welcome! Glad I could help
Thanks for the great video. Very informative and loved the trick of loosening the rear guard to turn the transmission for access to the cover versus the hassle of removing/disassembling the wheels. Big time saver.
You're welcome! Glad you could use it
Thanks, Kevin. Excellent tutorial. I have had many problems with Toro lawn equipment. They have been suffering from poor engineering.
You’re very welcome!
My recycler was new in 2008 and to this day it starts every time on the 1st pull. Great mower/engine.
Agree but yours and mine have the old style metal carb and the one in the video is el cheapo plastic.
Thanks for the video! These lawnmower videos have really helped. Some of your up close shots are great. The belt isn’t my problem, but still helpful. My personal pace quit working, too. Looks like that black bracket on the gear box that the spring on the end of the cable is attached to isn’t attached anymore. Looks like the bracket is the only thing moving when I move the handle, not good. Going to have to find another video to see how the bracket attaches to the trans and why mine isn’t attached anymore. Thanks, again!
This was exactly what I needed, thanks. The belt had gotten stuck between the pulley and housing on the back end. It was still in good shape, so it didn't need replacing. I was running over a lot of sticks when it happened, so I must have gotten a twig in there that spun it off or something.
Hello. Glad you got it all fixed up!
@@hdkevin4387 Yeah, I would have never figured all those parts to move, or that stupid square drive, otherwise. It took me an hour and a half to find all the right tools, and get it all apart, but seven minutes to put it all back!
I'm not a mechanic but thanks to you I was able to fix my Toro Personal Pace on my own! Much appreciated!!!
Hello! You are very welcome. Thank you for the comment
Me too. great stuff.
Going to use this tomorrow. Real pain in the neck without power wheels. Thanks
Great! Hope it worked out ok
Thanks, very helpful when I thought I broke my Dad's mower. Didn't need to replace the drive belt, it was just jammed with a stick, but your video really helped access the problem area.
Hello! You're very welcome!
Killer instructions - this was a massive help! Made this job a snap-thank you very much for taking the time to show this!!
You are very welcome! Thank you for the comment
Thank you! Storage over the Winter must have loosen the nut on the cable. I had the handle and with a few spins I was back in business.
You’re very welcome! Glad you got it squared away for free!
Same model as I have and I was looking for info on this, thanks so much for the video.
Great video! Thank you so much for putting the belt part number in the description!
You are very welcome!
Bro! This REALLY helped me change my drive belt. A million thanks for posting this. I really appreciate it!!
You are very welcome! Thank you kindly for the comment.
Thanks for the video. I think watching it kept me from taking some things apart I didn't need to!
You are very welcome!
Great video I replaced my belt a few times and this is the best video...THANK YOU!!
Thx .. I have that exact problem .. now I can try my mower
Thank you for this great video! It 100% help me replace the belt and figure out why the wheels were returning. All the best and thanks again
You’re very welcome! I enjoy paying it forward as so many have helped me also
Hey, everybody, here's a hint. Rake and pick up sticks that fall out of trees. They seem to cut or mulch easily, but a chunk the size of a short pencil can ruin a belt if it gets stuck in the pulley.
thank you for the helpful video - saved me from going to the mower repair
You are very welcome! Glad it was helpful
What Robert Blake said. If you have a lot of junk( sticks, rocks, etc.) sooner or later something gets between belt & pulley. Takes less than 1/2 hour to put on new belt with this video.And that’s the first time !
Very true!
Thanks so much for this video! and a second thanks for including the wrench sizes! Mower is running like new thanks to you. Much appreciated!
Glad I went for the FWD version of this machine,seen a lot of videos of the RWD with a ton of different problems and they usually require more work and more parts.
Does it propel effectively? Are you satisfied?
@@hdkevin4387 Yes I am satisfied with the machine and it does propel very good wouldn't know how good it would be on a hilly property but for flat yards like mine it actually gives me a workout.
@@JoseSanchez-wb5rz great to hear!
Great informative video. I am confident I can do this myself now. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. Thank you for the comment!
5:53 why they used square screws are beyond me. They will be stripped by 2-3rd belt change. I've only changed my belt once on my 2010 toro recyler 20332
Ok, here is some critical information, for those of us, with an electric/pull start system, and the black battery box on the deck of the mower. Ok, YES, there is a bolt underneath the box. But, it is towards the back of the mower, and you will see a slightly raised section of the box, that does not touch the deck, but sit's above it, about 1/4-3/8". The bolt you have to access is, literally in that notch, towards the backside of the black box/mower. And, I have found, that the box is riveted to the deck. So, for full access, you will have to rip the box off of the top of the deck, revealing 2 of the 3 bolts, as the 2nd bolt is, along the left side of the black battery box, just underneath the side front corner. But, if you are able to remove all of the plastic covers off of the back, including the flapper, for the bag. As, the top of the flapper for the bag hatch, is literally what has you blinded from seeing the bolt in the first place, besides the battery box itself. And, since I can't start it with the key anymore(Long story short, the cable harness was ripped out of the key starter switch, and ruined it), so it's pretty useless to me, at the moment. So, I decided to just rip the black box itself off. Which, made it much more simpler to access all 3 bolt's, for the plastic belt guard underneath. Also, it is a good idea to take a plastic bag(Walmart bags will do fine), and use it underneath the gas cap, by taking the cap off, then draping the bag(Double layer, by using whole bag) over the open hole, then screw the cap back on, and you now have a sealed gas cap, from leaking...
I turn wheel height adjustment to access the shield bolts
You are my hero for this damn video lol. Made my life easier, which is the best thing in the world.
Thanks man. Great video and saved me some money. My belt fell off but it is a little loose so may need to replace in near future but this was very helpful. Thanks again!!
Great video very helpful. If it wasn’t for your help I wouldn’t have just mowed my lawn after a week and a half! Thanks
You're very welcome! Glad I could help out!
Excellent instrucional video ! Thank you Ted Jasiewicz
Thank you. You are very welcome!
Very helpful used as a guide today and my mowers back working perfectly thanks!!
You’re very welcome! I’m happy to pay it forward
Great video. First safety step not mentioned:Step #1... remove spark plug wire anytime working around mower blade.
My father always told me that too. I failed him! Ha ha
don't forget safety glasses, gloves, earplugs and a giant insulating suit... ;)
Great job on that. Thanks a lot. Will see what else you did on the 20332. Hoping you changed plugs, air filter, and any thing else needed when mower is hard as heck to start. I have my second one of these mowers and they are terrific. But, get hard as heck to start even on warm day.
Interesting. Mine worked flawlessly for probably 5-6 years but all of a sudden mine has started giving me problems when starting at times. When I bag the grass I'm stopping numerous times to empty the bag. Sometimes starts on the first pull and other times it will take 3-4 pulls. I can't put my finger on it. It's like it gets a little flooded. I've got the 20334 model which looks almost identical to the 20332.
@@wisbacks Take your fuel system apart from the gas tank hose to the carb and clean it thoroughly. Use a very small wire to clean the ports on the carb. What works best is the wire that comes wrapped around a bread loaf. Strip the colored part of it off to get to the wire. Also get one of those small fuel filters and a couple of clamps and install it in your fuel line. Change it each year and it will solve a lot of starting problems. I've been there done that a couple of times with my Briggs engine on my Toro.
Great video. Of all the wrenches I have, not one 3/8, had to use my long needle nose. Works great now.
It’s probably hanging out with all your missing 10mm sockets. Ha ha
@@hdkevin4387 That is true. I did spend a day organizing my tool boxes and bags and of course I found the right sockets. So next time I will know better. It's been about 2 weeks since I replaced the belt, and it's working as expected. Thanks again for the video.
@@bobvanwest Great news! Thank you
This was a very helpful video I did a little motion sickness from the Camera moving around a bunch. It could’ve been me though with the lawnmower cocked on an angle and some gas dripping out I might’ve gotten a little dizzy from that haha
Excellent video, thank you so much for the break down.
That was very helpful. Have new belt and new blade going on my 4 yr old Toro PP Lawnmower. Am sure I could have figured it out, but like the way you didn't have to take rear wheels off.. Probably not a bad idea anyway to grease those gears up. Now, if you can figure out how to keep from wearing out a $60 grass catcher, that would be nice. They last about 2 years for me.
Just as I was finishing my front yard the mower self propel stopped and there was like a screaming when I would try to engage it, I'm thinking something's going on with the belt. Hate to tear it apart but looks like I got to. I'm hoping your video helps. thanks Kevin
It’s not too bad! I just blindly started digging in there and it was quick and easy. You got this
@@hdkevin4387 sure hope so, thanks Kevin
Nice video Kevin. It can be a challenge to do things one handed and film. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I don’t own this exact model, but someone stole the design from someone. I have the Briggs and Stratton version of this design. Thanks for the video.
The decks are all Toro.
Hey You Can Move The Rear Wheels Up And Down To Get To The "Bolts"
Thanks!
Man this was a ton of help 💯😁
You're very welcome!
Thanks to your video I was able to change the belt on my Toro 20332 Self Propelled mower. Now, the back wheels run by themselves and much too fast. I tried adjusting the wire on the side handle both ways and the mower still wants to run by itself. What am I missing? Is it possible I stretched the cable when I struggled to put the spring back on? What would cause the wheels to run by themselves?
Hello. You’re very welcome. It means the belt is too tight. Well the cable could be pinched if you had to struggle with it. Does it move freely back and forth? Also could the belt be the wrong size? If it’s too small it will bite on the pulley even if not engaged. Could the spring be misaligned perhaps?
Wondering if you got this figured out? I literally just did this today. I'm wondering if maybe the wire going to the gear box got kinked making it shorter and and in rest position the drive is already engaged. I know getting that spring reconnected was a pain in the butt for me!! I would watch the part again where he reconnects the spring to make sure the position is correct. I know I made a mental note of that when I was reassembling.
The repair description is great. There is a repaired model. Broken rear pivot arm nut hole. How can I fix it?
No matter how much I search on the internet, I can't find the part. please. (model 20340 (7.25/163cc)
Thanks. I was wondering about greasing the rear drive system. Any pointers? I’m getting some grinding when I try to go up big hills. Both drive wheels have good gears, so I’m thinking it’s a dry ratcheting mechanism somewhere.
Word of advice, to not have to fight with that spacer, just use a bit of grease on the backside, that is closest to the blade, as it act's as a suction cup, to hold it in place. While, not making it a permanent fix to the bottom of the cylinder it sit's in...
Thanks for the help brother! Same issue that happened to mine
Did you have any trouble getting the belt cover back on because I can't get mine back on. I can't get the screws to line up. Do I have to take the blade off in order to get it on
My mower is 11 yrs older but built the same way
Nice job! Those newer style gearboxes are much easier to change belts on than the old aluminum ones. Weird that it chewed the belt up so soon.
I agree. It must have been out of adjustment
A new OEM Toro drive belt is puny to say the least. No wonder they don't last. These are junk mowers.
Great video. Thanks
You are very welcome!
Thanks for this very helpful video.
Is there a way to adjust the belt. I bought a new one because the existing one was lose, installed the new one but still seems lose to me
Hello. I am trying to remember but I think you can tighten up the threads on the spring for the personal pace bar
@hdkevin4387 so to tighten the belt you use the same knob that you would use to adjust the self propel?
PERFECT !!!! thank you so much !!!
You are very welcome. Glad it helped!
TOUCHDOWN!!!!!!!
Thank u real good😊
I have a 28 year old Lawnboy Gold series made by Toro where the entire belt is on the top of the deck . The belt and the 3 speed transmission have never failed in all that time and I cut a 1/4 acre once a week. Why can't they make them like that anymore? Planed obsolescence ? Except for cleaning and greasing the small drive gears so they will slip when going backwards and replacing the wheels when they wore out and split the drive train has been trouble free. What recently failed the blower housing from metal fatigue where it bolted to the engine from so many pull starts and I replaced the pull cord itself once.
You’re absolutely right. They don’t make money on things that last 20 years
Thank you, thank you, thank you 🙏🏽
You are very welcome!
9:58 move the wheel all the way up or down I forget which way, you can get easy access to that screw
Thank You! Very helpful.
Very good video. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Thank you for your comment!
Nicely done
Thank you!
Thanks for this video!
You are very welcome. Thank you for your comment
Wish I saw how you got the spring out.
Be sure to check your model # . This belt is for 2009 and up.
Just drove myself crazy for 2hours wondering what's going on bc I needed a bigger
91-2258 belt is about 2" bigger
Can you work on one of these in the Stow position which would give full access to the underside of the mower?
Looks easy, thanks much!
You are very welcome!!
Thanks for the video. I have a personal pace from 2015 and the belt just now needs changing. But...there is no way that can be the correct blade for that mower. It should fit the entire width of the holding carrier that it sets in. That blade looks to narrow.
Video was excellent!! Thank you. By any chance do you know the Belt Length. I put a 3L350 on my mower and it's way too big.
You are very welcome. 3/8 x 33.25”circumference
I took an allen wrench and ground it square to get the transmission screws off that cover. Great idea Toro for using square headed screws LOL.
I know. Path of least resistance for these manufacturers....
Most all multi-bit tools have several square head bit included. Not a real hard to find bit
Square 'Robinson' heads are not a hard find. A square recess is a good choice here because the recess goes deeper than with the more popular screw drives. This means you can apply a decent amount of torque to undo stubborn, crudded up screws, without risking 'cam out'. Clean out any grass from the recess first, to ensure you make use of the full depth. The Pastite thread is also an interesting choice, given the screw doesn't thread into plastic. Perhaps it was chosen to help resist vibration loosening.
@@immaterialblonde4066 Very good point
Awsome tutorial thank you
You are very welcome! Thank you
Thanks for the video, I found it after I had already replaced my slipped and chewed up belt. I replaced belt with identical OEM belt and it lasted about a month and new belt slipped off again, what should I be adjusting to increase tension of the new new belt before I replace it again?
Yea...wheres this reply?
Simple...the pulleys are worn so even a new belt runs looser than it should. The pulley on the mower shaft takes most of the wear so replace it (about $25) and this should help eliminate the problem.
Great video....is it worth replacing the spring ??
This spring seemed ok. But while you’re in there never hurts
I got mine on without taking anything apart on the drive side. Kind of a bear to get it around the pulley but it is possible.
Good to know. Thank you!
Excellent video
That's exactly what happens to mine quite frequently! I always thought Toro was a good brand but now I wonder! The repair shop charges me over $60 to pick it up and replace the belt it. Gonna look for something else. Any suggestions please?
I can only think a component could be bent that is causing contact to the belt? I adjusted the belt guard under the mower deck and it hasn't had any problems since. Did you do your last repair or did the repair shop perform it?
@@hdkevin4387 Hi Kevin, thanks for answering back! I don't know anything about lawnmowers so the Toro guy in my town picks it up, charges me for that and for repairing. It's only 3 years old and last summer he claimed the transmission went out and that was almost $400! I don't want to put any more money into it, so I'm kinda stuck.... Thanks for your help!
@@susan5301 you’re welcome! I have a lawnboy that has been excellent the last 10 years. It doesn’t have the personal pace, but it has been very reliable
@@hdkevin4387 if you have a small yard 1/4 or less i would suggest a Ego battery mower. Cost about $ 500 but i've had mine 5 years and zero problems. No gas to buy or store. I love it.
@@rhalama1 that’s definitely the way to go!
Looks like someone was in there before. There are heat stains from welding, on the blade adaptor.
We have an older Torrell probably 15 years old. It’s a little over engineered. Had to takeoff nine different pieces including the wheels to get the belt off. It’s a monster
To remove the bolts holding the clippings chute just rotate the wheels to a different position as though you are changing cutting height for each bolt and you can take the bolts out with conventional socket and ratchet wrench. I removed the clippings chute completely, not sure about just bending it back out the way. I'm concerned it might crack or tear or somehow be distorted. Worked OK in this video to bend it back. But, you never know. Not that much harder to just remove it completely.
Good idea!
is it a square head bolt that holds the clippings chute to the back? mine is quite rusty... can't tell. need to get some liquid wrench.
Kevin, Have you ever compared that Personal Pace Toro from HD to the same model from a Toro dealer? I have one from the dealer and noticed several differences (minor) differences in this video. My mower is seven years old so that my be the reason. I just wonder if the HD model cuts any corners on quality.
I have. You are spot on. There is a reason why they don't last and are so cheap. It is disappointing. More plastic and stamped parts
@@hdkevin4387 Thanks.
My belt keeps coming off on the drive cable end of my 20332. I’ve tried two new different belts. The last one I tried was toro original. Any tips on how to fix this?
Very helpful
Thank you!
I did most of the same, only I tried to remove the belt guard. Snapped both bolt heads right off. Didn't know that didn't have to be removed.
Bummer.
Ah man. Well hopefully there isn’t a next time replacing the belt
How do you tighten the belt on this type of mower?
nice job!
Thank you!
Brilliant. This is even easier than it was trying to get the local Ace to fix it. I haven't used My mower more than 5 or 6 times and already have to change the belt. Is there a TRICK to keeping it from happening so quick next time?
Mine has bigger (taller) back wheels.
Pay attention to the engagement cable adjustment. If it’s too loose it could accelerate belt wear.
How do you check transmission on self propelled mowers
I have the same mower, Same thing happened to my belt in the first year. I replaced the belt like you did. 2nd year the cable broke. I replaced that. Now it won't move forward again. Belt is in tact. The tires and gear all look fine. The wheels won't spin at all. This model is trash, they should do a recall on it. We had a different mower that lasted 15yrs before the gears on the wheels went bad and it needed replacing.
Unfortunately nothing is made to last anymore. I just worked on a pressure washer with a 100% plastic carburetor. Unreal
@@hdkevin4387 I changed the belt, not sure if the old one was really bad or not but after changing it and attaching the cable it works again 🤷♂
@@johnames6430 perfect. Could have just been a tension issue?
@@hdkevin4387 yes, but even with the old belt I pulled the cable up and def over tensioned it but the wheels would not spin at all (even when lifted off the ground)
@@johnames6430 I’m trying to trace back in my head from the wheel…. Turn it over and hand spin the wheel forward and see where the last point of motion is. That may point you to the culprit
I can get the blade bolt off, but that plate underneath it is stuck on. I've beat the heck out of it underneath with a hammer and have trying prying it. Tried wd40 and PB Blaster.
The next step: Put some heat on it. Do you have MAP gas? That's my choice for stuck bolts.
@@hdkevin4387 Thanks. I was able to get the belt on and off without removing that blade mount. Only removed the blade. I have some other problems with the mower though.
1. The plate that the wheel screw goes into stripped so I bought another plate, but I can't get the old one off. It's the "yellowish" bare metal piece.
2. The spring under the push handle that pushes it back towards you broke. I bought a new one but can't figure out how to get the spring off/on that rod that it wraps around.
Also one of the bolts holding that belt guard, and thus holding the engine, snapped off. I need to buy a bolt extractor.