What a cool story Keith. Great how a chance meeting can bring so much pleasure to two guys, completely unconnected, except for an interest in old cars. You were a celebrity to him and that's all that matters.👍😁
Great to see another video Keith! As always I appreciate the knowledge and whimsy you pass along to other old car guys working to get and or keep their vintage cars on the road. Cheers!
I repaired the driver's door power window switch on my '73 Chrysler New Yorker by replacing the existing phenolic board with a new piece of fiber-glass board. The fiber-glass board had no circuit traces on it. I used some 16AWG solid wire to connect certain socket contacts together. I used the old phenolic board as a template to let me know where to drill holes for the socket contacts to fit into the new fiber-glass board. In a case like this one, you could likely find a number of ways to secure the contacts to new board material. The existing worn contacts could also be renewed by using silver solder to fill in the surface of each contact until they were level with the top of the outer edges of the original contacts. Some filing might be necessary. In some cases some very small screws and nuts (use brass) might be used to secure the contacts to the new board material. Alternatively use some brass rivets. Only use silver rosin core solder made for electronic use (do not use solder or solder flux made for plumbing work). Silver solder is more durable than lead-tin solder and if the silver solder wears down later on after years of use, just add a bit more silver solder to each worn contact. If the raised nubs on the moving contact are worn down - again use some silver solder to build them up. Use some silicone heat-sink type grease or plumber's silicone grease to lubricate the moving parts. A thin layer can also be spread across the stationary contacts to help prevent wear and oxidation. Normally silver would not need oxidation prevention since even the tarnish of silver is highly conductive. Overall a nice method of repair is shown and depending on tools available and skills of the repairman various ways can be found to make repairs. Have fun!
Very instructive and helpful video 👍🏼. I wish I had seen this video when I was at that stage of restoration 😄. I would like to see a video describing the assembly/disassembly of the original style reflector headlamps! (Not sealed beam).
Your such an inspiration, great video, you give me hope on getting my 47 plymouth back on the road some day, my project goes slow, but I plug away at it when I can, great video thank you so much
I don't think thats a spacer, more likely an insulation plate, to prevent a short. Thus reason for the burn out. Also, I think older vehicles only had a single 30 amp self reseting breaker. Love the video!
Loose electrical connections create heat. Those worn out contacts probably was the culprit for the heat. Electrical Contact cleaner works pretty well for corroded parts. Thanks for the Video Kieth. BTW, Can I have your autograph? lol
late 39 mopar changed to seal beam HL...took lots more current ..so bigger HL switch...bigger gen to keep up with extra current draw..bigger wires to HL's...short nite driving no problem but long nite driving bat will go dead and burn HL switch..have 37 ply coupe,37 dodge coupe,37 desoto convert coupe and 39 dodge coupe..spencer
@ OldCar_Inyo I Have A 38 Plymouth Coupe I Got From My Elderly Grandfather In The 1970's Before He Died, And Pretty Much Restored It When I Was In My Early 20's On A Young Fellows Budget. Cool Car Painted Red With Sport Wheels And A Redone Interior. I Swapped The Engine With The Last 1950's 230 Flattie For More Power, That Amazingly Had Everything Bolt Up To It. And Also Installed, (What I Was Told Back Then), Was A 1936 Chrysler Overdrive That Really Reduced The Engine RPM's When Going Highway Speeds. I've Been A Heavy Truck Mechanic During My Working Career, But At My Advanced Age, (And Already Having Undergone Laser Back Surgery), I'd Need A Car LIFT To Do The Repairs Myself. I'm Trying To Get A Friend Who Has A Car Repair Shop, To Have Him Help Me With The Work At His Place. As We Did With A 1950 Mercury I Finished Restoring A Few Years Ago. UNFORTUNATLY The Coupe Drove More Like An OLD TRUCK, The Steering Would Occasionally Start To "Shimmy" Even After I Put Wedge Plates Under The Front Leaf Springs, And The Amp Meter Would BARLEY Show A Positive Charge Above Idle Speed. I've Parked It Since The Early 80's After I Got Married, However I Want To Get The Old Coupe Roadworthy Again Before I Pass Away Because It's A Family Heirloom. A Friend That Has A 1947 International Truck With A 6-Volt Positive Ground System Had The Same LOW Charging Problem. And Installed A 6-Volt Positive Ground ALTERNATOR That Cured His Problem, Since The 6-Volt Systems Cranked The Engines Over Very Slowly, Hoping The Engine Would Even Fire Up. So As I'm Buying Parts To Resume My Continuing Planned 38 Plymouth Restoration Of The Entire Brake System, Exhaust System, Carbonator Rebuilding, Rear Axle Seal Replacements, Timing Chain And Gear Replacements, And New Coolant Circulation Tube In The Block; I Also Bought A 6-Volt Positive Ground ALTERNATOR From A Fellow, (That Specifically Builds Them), For My Old Coupe. Because Switching Everything Over To 12-Volt Negative As I Did With My Mercury, Was Only Necessary Because I Drive It More Than I Plan On Doing With The Plymouth. I Changed The Headlights Over To Sealed Beams Back In The 70's, But Don't Intend To Be Driving It At Night Anyway. However The Original Headlight Wiring Looks Heavy Enough, And Even Thicker Than The Plastic Coated Wiring That Was In The Plugs Used For The Sealed Beam Headlights. ALSO, (If I Remember Correctly), The Older Overdrive Transmission Didn't Have Synchronizer Rings In The Transmission. But I Have The Original 1938 NON Overdrive Transmission, (And Another Spare One), As Well As A Plymouth 3-Speed From The 1940's That ALL HAVE Synchronizers In Them. I Bought A New Bearing And Seal Kit For The 1938 Transmission, And Would Like To Put Synchronizers Into That Overdrive Box If I Could. You Sound As Though You Have Experience With Older Plymouth Vehicles. So Whatever Additional Information You Could Provide Me With Before I Begin Digging Into That Coupe Job Would Be Helpful And Greatly Appreciated Indeed. Thanks Ahead Of Time... Dave...
I've never had this problem with a 6v cars, but I've had this problem on TONS of 60s/70s Chryslers. On those, I run relays to the headlight switches, this way the high current goes straight from the battery to the head lights, and the headlight switch is a low current circuit that only activates the relays. I bet there is a 6v relay that could be used. It's too late for that old switch, but it could save melting the replacement switch.
my headlights on my 41 plymouth like to go out while driving specifically while braking and sometimes itll come back on sometimes bot and was wondering if you knew possible solutions
Love you vids I just got a 1938 Chrysler imperial c19 the steering is very hard any suggestions for better steering can I put like a power steering first classic car just learning
We're all fine. Just enjoying my cars and driving them. Not working on them very much lately as I have done so much work to them over the past 5 or so years. So I've not made many videos as I have not been repairing the cars.
What a cool story Keith. Great how a chance meeting can bring so much pleasure to two guys, completely unconnected, except for an interest in old cars. You were a celebrity to him and that's all that matters.👍😁
Great video, Keith. I always wondered how those knobs came off. The ending was a real kick, entertaining for sure.
Great to see another video Keith! As always I appreciate the knowledge and whimsy you pass along to other old car guys working to get and or keep their vintage cars on the road. Cheers!
I repaired the driver's door power window switch on my '73 Chrysler New Yorker by replacing the existing phenolic board with a new piece of fiber-glass board. The fiber-glass board had no circuit traces on it. I used some 16AWG solid wire to connect certain socket contacts together. I used the old phenolic board as a template to let me know where to drill holes for the socket contacts to fit into the new fiber-glass board. In a case like this one, you could likely find a number of ways to secure the contacts to new board material. The existing worn contacts could also be renewed by using silver solder to fill in the surface of each contact until they were level with the top of the outer edges of the original contacts. Some filing might be necessary. In some cases some very small screws and nuts (use brass) might be used to secure the contacts to the new board material. Alternatively use some brass rivets. Only use silver rosin core solder made for electronic use (do not use solder or solder flux made for plumbing work). Silver solder is more durable than lead-tin solder and if the silver solder wears down later on after years of use, just add a bit more silver solder to each worn contact. If the raised nubs on the moving contact are worn down - again use some silver solder to build them up. Use some silicone heat-sink type grease or plumber's silicone grease to lubricate the moving parts. A thin layer can also be spread across the stationary contacts to help prevent wear and oxidation. Normally silver would not need oxidation prevention since even the tarnish of silver is highly conductive. Overall a nice method of repair is shown and depending on tools available and skills of the repairman various ways can be found to make repairs. Have fun!
Plumber's silicone grease comes in small plastic containers and they use it for lubricating rubber "O"-rings in modern faucets.
Very instructive and helpful video 👍🏼. I wish I had seen this video when I was at that stage of restoration 😄.
I would like to see a video describing the assembly/disassembly of the original style reflector headlamps! (Not sealed beam).
Your such an inspiration, great video, you give me hope on getting my 47 plymouth back on the road some day, my project goes slow, but I plug away at it when I can, great video thank you so much
I don't think thats a spacer, more likely an insulation plate, to prevent a short. Thus reason for the burn out. Also, I think older vehicles only had a single 30 amp self reseting breaker. Love the video!
Loose electrical connections create heat. Those worn out contacts probably was the culprit for the heat. Electrical Contact cleaner works pretty well for corroded parts. Thanks for the Video Kieth. BTW, Can I have your autograph? lol
It's a cool story. Will you be doing a video on wiring the 6V relays into the car? Thanks, really enjoy these and it helps me with my 49 Plymouth.
late 39 mopar changed to seal beam HL...took lots more current ..so bigger HL switch...bigger gen to keep up with extra current draw..bigger wires to HL's...short nite driving no problem but long nite driving bat will go dead and burn HL switch..have 37 ply coupe,37 dodge coupe,37 desoto convert coupe and 39 dodge coupe..spencer
@ OldCar_Inyo I Have A 38 Plymouth Coupe I Got From My Elderly Grandfather In The 1970's Before He Died, And Pretty Much Restored It When I Was In My Early 20's On A Young Fellows Budget. Cool Car Painted Red With Sport Wheels And A Redone Interior. I Swapped The Engine With The Last 1950's 230 Flattie For More Power, That Amazingly Had Everything Bolt Up To It. And Also Installed, (What I Was Told Back Then), Was A 1936 Chrysler Overdrive That Really Reduced The Engine RPM's When Going Highway Speeds. I've Been A Heavy Truck Mechanic During My Working Career, But At My Advanced Age, (And Already Having Undergone Laser Back Surgery), I'd Need A Car LIFT To Do The Repairs Myself. I'm Trying To Get A Friend Who Has A Car Repair Shop, To Have Him Help Me With The Work At His Place. As We Did With A 1950 Mercury I Finished Restoring A Few Years Ago. UNFORTUNATLY The Coupe Drove More Like An OLD TRUCK, The Steering Would Occasionally Start To "Shimmy" Even After I Put Wedge Plates Under The Front Leaf Springs, And The Amp Meter Would BARLEY Show A Positive Charge Above Idle Speed. I've Parked It Since The Early 80's After I Got Married, However I Want To Get The Old Coupe Roadworthy Again Before I Pass Away Because It's A Family Heirloom. A Friend That Has A 1947 International Truck With A 6-Volt Positive Ground System Had The Same LOW Charging Problem. And Installed A 6-Volt Positive Ground ALTERNATOR That Cured His Problem, Since The 6-Volt Systems Cranked The Engines Over Very Slowly, Hoping The Engine Would Even Fire Up. So As I'm Buying Parts To Resume My Continuing Planned 38 Plymouth Restoration Of The Entire Brake System, Exhaust System, Carbonator Rebuilding, Rear Axle Seal Replacements, Timing Chain And Gear Replacements, And New Coolant Circulation Tube In The Block; I Also Bought A 6-Volt Positive Ground ALTERNATOR From A Fellow, (That Specifically Builds Them), For My Old Coupe. Because Switching Everything Over To 12-Volt Negative As I Did With My Mercury, Was Only Necessary Because I Drive It More Than I Plan On Doing With The Plymouth. I Changed The Headlights Over To Sealed Beams Back In The 70's, But Don't Intend To Be Driving It At Night Anyway. However The Original Headlight Wiring Looks Heavy Enough, And Even Thicker Than The Plastic Coated Wiring That Was In The Plugs Used For The Sealed Beam Headlights. ALSO, (If I Remember Correctly), The Older Overdrive Transmission Didn't Have Synchronizer Rings In The Transmission. But I Have The Original 1938 NON Overdrive Transmission, (And Another Spare One), As Well As A Plymouth 3-Speed From The 1940's That ALL HAVE Synchronizers In Them. I Bought A New Bearing And Seal Kit For The 1938 Transmission, And Would Like To Put Synchronizers Into That Overdrive Box If I Could. You Sound As Though You Have Experience With Older Plymouth Vehicles. So Whatever Additional Information You Could Provide Me With Before I Begin Digging Into That Coupe Job Would Be Helpful And Greatly Appreciated Indeed. Thanks Ahead Of Time... Dave...
Great video again, thank you!
I've never had this problem with a 6v cars, but I've had this problem on TONS of 60s/70s Chryslers. On those, I run relays to the headlight switches, this way the high current goes straight from the battery to the head lights, and the headlight switch is a low current circuit that only activates the relays. I bet there is a 6v relay that could be used. It's too late for that old switch, but it could save melting the replacement switch.
I have installed dual 6V relays in my 38 Plymouth. 1 each for high beam and low beam. They work great and make for a failsafe headlight system.
another fine tutorial thx
my headlights on my 41 plymouth like to go out while driving specifically while braking and sometimes itll come back on sometimes bot and was wondering if you knew possible solutions
Love you vids I just got a 1938 Chrysler imperial c19 the steering is very hard any suggestions for better steering can I put like a power steering first classic car just learning
See my videos on the steering gear box.
Hey Keith,
Where ya been? I love watching your videos, but, you haven’t been making any lately!? Are you and the family well?
Regards,
Dave K
We're all fine. Just enjoying my cars and driving them. Not working on them very much lately as I have done so much work to them over the past 5 or so years. So I've not made many videos as I have not been repairing the cars.
Great video I just got 50 imperial with flat head 8
Always appreciate your videos, they help me with my '55 Savoy 2 door project, which I have running down the road now!
Beautiful car.