I can't wait to see the finished product. I may be able to tweak your design to fit my Meanwell power supply in it. I truthfully have put it off because I knew it would take some time and work to get it right.
Thanks! I think you're gonna like it. I also have ordered a cheap PSU that will fit this size case to test with. The case would definitely need to grow quite a bit to fit a PSU that would provide the 1kW that the 6018 could dish out, but I want to keep this thing to a size that someone can fit on a realistic hobby-sized bench.
The temperature probe is to thermal glue to the hottest heatsink of the PSU, so the riden can monitor its PSU's temperature isn't going crazy. You can also either get a temp controller for the fan, or a simple bi-metal switch (that again, you stick to the hottest heatsink) so it turns on when it gets above X degrees.
I have the same model sitting in the box waiting for me to put it in a case along with a Meanwell power supply I recently purchased. If I remember correctly, it's a buck boost PS. That means if you have a 12v input, you can still get up to 60v at a lower current than your input. It also has constant voltage and constant current control.
@@ivolol yeah I went back and looked again. I have some 60v batteries so I can get from 60v down. I have small Ruiden units that are buck/boost but lower max voltage. I have a 120v DC unit coming to take care of my higher voltage equipment. I have some that are 80v. It'll be handy for charging batteries I don't have chargers for that are 60v
Couple of things that I have to say: 1) The temperature probe is for the psu (the main 55v one), and in teory, if you want to copy a professional rigol psu, you should buy one of those temperature controlled fan regulators. You can find them for a couple of dollars (take in consideration the number of wires the fan needs, if it's 2 wire, it needs a voltage regulated fan (cheaper but louder), if it's 3 or 4, it needs a pc-like pwm regulated fan (the one you are using, more expensive but silent)). I would not spend more than 4$ on the fan regulators, and even 4$ is expensive, tbh, I have desined and bought some of those myself. 2) AC is not DC, when it comes to PSUs you do not need to mark line and neutral, if you don't understand, go look how AC and power supplies work. P.S.: It looks like that the wire colors kinda follows the EU legistlation, even though having red and black isn't really legal here, but anyways. 3) And one last, very, very important thing, DO NOT plug a device in a hot psu, never, expecially if the voltage is above 5v, it's the first cause of damage in board components, you got lucky there. The reason why the components break when you do something like that, is (as far as I understand) because the spark that is created between the 2 connectors has a higher voltage and current. Hope this comment was helpful.
Thx, appreciate the info and gave it some thought and I understand what you mean about the input given it's really just alternating +/- in reference to the other lead regardless of which you reference from, but in instances like this where the PSU was out of a device that was originally grounded, I do wonder if there's some differences in the board layout that is designed to have one input or the other be the "neutral" (which would tie to ground in the main panel) if the output doesn't float (I didn't check to see if it does).
@@FunctionalPrintFriday No, because the waveform will look identical no matter which lead you decide to designate as "neutral". The only difference would be the phase of the power that PSU would see, compared to other separately mains connected devices, which tends not to matter much - you're not connecting the mains side of things together, you're connected the rectified sides. The main thing to get right is proper earthing practices for all products involved.
I'm chiming in before watching the whole video, so I'm sorry if this was addressed I just wanted to get my thoughts down before I move on in the video. I only know enough about power electronics to be dangerous, but I'd check to make sure the power supply has an isolated output. The reason being is if it doesn't, the dc bus from a non isolated power supply will have potential compared to ground on the positive and negative lines. You could get a shock when touching the negative dc output. You could also inadvertently fry electronics that you power through this device.
I just finished watching the second part and decided this was a dumb comment. There's no way a POE unit would come without an isolated power supply. It might be good for others to consider though if they're scavenging their own power supplies from old electronics.
The reason there is no battery is because of import restrictions. It costs much more to ship something containing a battery from China, even if it’s a dinky coin cell battery. Some vendors will hide the battery in the product, others just leave it out and require you to supply it yourself.
China sometimes have crap quality check on products so it might work for what's it stated, but it might not. And even if the manufacturer is trustworthy, they might get a bad delivery because of a shady subcontractor. So either you quality check it yourself if you know how, or you only turn it up to 7 🙂
China *can* make top-quality products, but they're also willing to export barely-functional garbage to, which is why it feels like a lottery. I'm impressed with this Riden unit so far.
You wouldn't use the Wago clamps in a wallbox because they are more expensive? I wouldn't use the nuts because they are cheaper. There's things in life you shouldn't cheap out on
that's fair. I should have been more specific. I use simple wire nuts for two copper wires of the same color in wallboxes, but anything else gets wago's nowadays. Night and day for when you have to join like 5 neutrals together lol
I can't wait to see the finished product. I may be able to tweak your design to fit my Meanwell power supply in it.
I truthfully have put it off because I knew it would take some time and work to get it right.
Thanks! I think you're gonna like it. I also have ordered a cheap PSU that will fit this size case to test with. The case would definitely need to grow quite a bit to fit a PSU that would provide the 1kW that the 6018 could dish out, but I want to keep this thing to a size that someone can fit on a realistic hobby-sized bench.
The temperature probe is to thermal glue to the hottest heatsink of the PSU, so the riden can monitor its PSU's temperature isn't going crazy. You can also either get a temp controller for the fan, or a simple bi-metal switch (that again, you stick to the hottest heatsink) so it turns on when it gets above X degrees.
Yeh I think it'll use it for battery charging too. I need to add a socket to still be able to use it.
I have the same model sitting in the box waiting for me to put it in a case along with a Meanwell power supply I recently purchased.
If I remember correctly, it's a buck boost PS. That means if you have a 12v input, you can still get up to 60v at a lower current than your input. It also has constant voltage and constant current control.
I think it's only buck, but I'm not 100% certain. Would be sweet if it does both.
Only the DPH series from Riden is buck boost. This module, and most other RIDEN modules, is buck only.
@@ivolol yeah I went back and looked again. I have some 60v batteries so I can get from 60v down. I have small Ruiden units that are buck/boost but lower max voltage. I have a 120v DC unit coming to take care of my higher voltage equipment. I have some that are 80v. It'll be handy for charging batteries I don't have chargers for that are 60v
Couple of things that I have to say:
1) The temperature probe is for the psu (the main 55v one), and in teory, if you want to copy a professional rigol psu, you should buy one of those temperature controlled fan regulators. You can find them for a couple of dollars (take in consideration the number of wires the fan needs, if it's 2 wire, it needs a voltage regulated fan (cheaper but louder), if it's 3 or 4, it needs a pc-like pwm regulated fan (the one you are using, more expensive but silent)). I would not spend more than 4$ on the fan regulators, and even 4$ is expensive, tbh, I have desined and bought some of those myself.
2) AC is not DC, when it comes to PSUs you do not need to mark line and neutral, if you don't understand, go look how AC and power supplies work.
P.S.: It looks like that the wire colors kinda follows the EU legistlation, even though having red and black isn't really legal here, but anyways.
3) And one last, very, very important thing, DO NOT plug a device in a hot psu, never, expecially if the voltage is above 5v, it's the first cause of damage in board components, you got lucky there. The reason why the components break when you do something like that, is (as far as I understand) because the spark that is created between the 2 connectors has a higher voltage and current.
Hope this comment was helpful.
Thx, appreciate the info and gave it some thought and I understand what you mean about the input given it's really just alternating +/- in reference to the other lead regardless of which you reference from, but in instances like this where the PSU was out of a device that was originally grounded, I do wonder if there's some differences in the board layout that is designed to have one input or the other be the "neutral" (which would tie to ground in the main panel) if the output doesn't float (I didn't check to see if it does).
@@FunctionalPrintFriday No, because the waveform will look identical no matter which lead you decide to designate as "neutral". The only difference would be the phase of the power that PSU would see, compared to other separately mains connected devices, which tends not to matter much - you're not connecting the mains side of things together, you're connected the rectified sides.
The main thing to get right is proper earthing practices for all products involved.
I'm chiming in before watching the whole video, so I'm sorry if this was addressed I just wanted to get my thoughts down before I move on in the video. I only know enough about power electronics to be dangerous, but I'd check to make sure the power supply has an isolated output. The reason being is if it doesn't, the dc bus from a non isolated power supply will have potential compared to ground on the positive and negative lines. You could get a shock when touching the negative dc output. You could also inadvertently fry electronics that you power through this device.
I just finished watching the second part and decided this was a dumb comment. There's no way a POE unit would come without an isolated power supply. It might be good for others to consider though if they're scavenging their own power supplies from old electronics.
Nice video, thanks for sharing, well done :)
The reason there is no battery is because of import restrictions. It costs much more to ship something containing a battery from China, even if it’s a dinky coin cell battery. Some vendors will hide the battery in the product, others just leave it out and require you to supply it yourself.
Thanks for that! That actually makes a lot of sense.
Awesome vid man!
Thanks!
China sometimes have crap quality check on products so it might work for what's it stated, but it might not. And even if the manufacturer is trustworthy, they might get a bad delivery because of a shady subcontractor. So either you quality check it yourself if you know how, or you only turn it up to 7 🙂
China *can* make top-quality products, but they're also willing to export barely-functional garbage to, which is why it feels like a lottery. I'm impressed with this Riden unit so far.
You wouldn't use the Wago clamps in a wallbox because they are more expensive?
I wouldn't use the nuts because they are cheaper. There's things in life you shouldn't cheap out on
that's fair. I should have been more specific. I use simple wire nuts for two copper wires of the same color in wallboxes, but anything else gets wago's nowadays. Night and day for when you have to join like 5 neutrals together lol