Good on you for fixing the dryer. Too many people are too quick to replace something like this with a new one rather than putting in any effort to repair it.
GE Repair Tech here…. I see this quite often. There is a knob available that has an “I” shape handle on it that I often use for customers who can’t grip the smooth knob that yours came with.
Great job! I received a 3D [printer for my birthday in June. I've been tuning and printing a lot of D&D minis. I've been looking for more 'practical' prints. I too have a broken dryer knob (different model/brand) so this video is spot on for me. Thanks for effort put into this - it's a great platform for all of us with broken knobs! (innuendo on purpose)
Been here a few times. Most recently a spout that a supplier didn't include with the new seal for our front loader washing machine. Loyal viewer here, love ya work.
I bought a Maytag washer and dryer about 3 years ago and I am really happy with the build quality. You are right. All others seemed really cheaply made.
The best part of doing this is that the part you made is better than the part it came with and you can print a new one very cheap at any time. Great work!
I haven’t watched this yet but just wanted to share my excitement at this one. I’ve been down this exact road with poor results I look forward to seeing your solution!
excellent, as always! I never had a knob break off for a dryer. I've replaced multiple things on my dryer in the past. I've had multiple ac knobs break, over the years.
I would make it less bulky (kind of old style one "wall" in middle switch). Anyway best channel out there as functional prints are my favorite type of prints!
Yeah i have kits of many things just to figure out what i seem to use the most, like the heat inserts that i have m3 in 5 sizes and i only really use one of the sizes, so i just buy 1000 of them when i need some again. I would properly have fillet the cylinder/shaft to give it more meat, and made it in abs/petg, but if it works it works :)
It can be tricky getting the d shaft to be just the right fit, save drilling a hole in the side it's easier to put a little shim piece on the flat side of the shaft or you can print it slightly undersize, heat the shaft with a soldering iron and push it on, I've done all three and they work great and yes your wife was right, a black control knob would have looked horrible.
Whirlpool, not so much anymore. They make several brands to include KitchenAid and JennAir both of which I've had/have and have been pretty troublesome.
This was one of my first functional prints. Mine pretty closely replicates the original, but I should put a set screw on it. I think you could have put the set screw completely behind the faceplate with and not had it showing, but that's a design decision.
Interesting....I never had a dryer knob that liked turning backwards (counter clockwise). For a long time people said Speed Queen was the last good appliance, but they get mixed reviews now too.
Can you show how “taper at the top” feature realized? Is it two sketches, first sketch at the bottom from which offset made to make second sketch at the top and lofted boss/base feature made from both sketches?
I use sketchup because I'm stubborn and it's free, so I just resized the top geometry, but extrude with taper in a parametric design app would be the correct way to do it
Why use supports for something like rhis? Split it so the bottom part is separate and just fits / snaps into a hole of the actual knob. That way you need zero support and in some cases you can also play with the print orientation of the bottom part for more strength.
Siemens-Bosch (the German made for the German market), Miele, some of the NEFFs (Bosch' premium brand), all build well, too well actually, but they cost more than an used car, probably none of them available in the US though.
I'm honestly not sure. I thought about it for a few minutes when I was designing it, and I came to the conclusion that since both parts are plastic, that it would be better to force the two flat faces together by putting the screw on the opposing side, and maximize the contact surface for torque transfer. If both parts were metal, I think set screw would be better on other side as you suggested.
Branding doesn't mean much anymore. That GE was probably made in Mexico or overseas, possibly in a factory with a dirt floor. We don't make anything anymore, we just order stuff. Aren't you 'bout ready to switch over to Fusion? You don't know what you're missing.
I didn't even have to watch this video to suggest to you that you should have made the knob a little more of an obnoxious but funny shape. Got to pump the viral views somehow ...
There's not much heat up there in the control panel. People tend to overlook PLA too much in my opinion. It's cheap, readily available, easy to print, has excellent layer adhesion, and is one of the stiffest filaments out there. Yeh, it doesn't suffer heat exposure as well as other filaments, and ASA/PETG is more UV stable, but if those things don't matter, PLA is a great choice.
I should add, even though other filaments are *more* UV stable, I just recently did a vid on PLA outside, and it holds up way better than most people think
This is what i enjoy doing with my 3d printers, awesome channel,
Good on you for fixing the dryer. Too many people are too quick to replace something like this with a new one rather than putting in any effort to repair it.
Spends 10’s of thousands on tools and equipment. Spends 100 bucks on a dryer. My man!
GE Repair Tech here…. I see this quite often. There is a knob available that has an “I” shape handle on it that I often use for customers who can’t grip the smooth knob that yours came with.
Happen to have the part number for the I shaped knob handy?
@@CoreyStup WE03X25285 This is from the Hotpoint version of this dryer.
Great job! I received a 3D [printer for my birthday in June. I've been tuning and printing a lot of D&D minis. I've been looking for more 'practical' prints. I too have a broken dryer knob (different model/brand) so this video is spot on for me. Thanks for effort put into this - it's a great platform for all of us with broken knobs! (innuendo on purpose)
Been here a few times. Most recently a spout that a supplier didn't include with the new seal for our front loader washing machine.
Loyal viewer here, love ya work.
thx!
I bought a Maytag washer and dryer about 3 years ago and I am really happy with the build quality. You are right. All others seemed really cheaply made.
The best part of doing this is that the part you made is better than the part it came with and you can print a new one very cheap at any time. Great work!
I haven’t watched this yet but just wanted to share my excitement at this one. I’ve been down this exact road with poor results I look forward to seeing your solution!
Man, i love little projects like these.
excellent, as always! I never had a knob break off for a dryer. I've replaced multiple things on my dryer in the past. I've had multiple ac knobs break, over the years.
I would make it less bulky (kind of old style one "wall" in middle switch). Anyway best channel out there as functional prints are my favorite type of prints!
Yeah i have kits of many things just to figure out what i seem to use the most, like the heat inserts that i have m3 in 5 sizes and i only really use one of the sizes, so i just buy 1000 of them when i need some again.
I would properly have fillet the cylinder/shaft to give it more meat, and made it in abs/petg, but if it works it works :)
Now, you need to print another one for the temp control. I think your design is waaaaaay nice than the original.
I just might. . could probably just scale down the features
No trinket of the week here ..... 👍👍😎👍👍
It can be tricky getting the d shaft to be just the right fit, save drilling a hole in the side it's easier to put a little shim piece on the flat side of the shaft or you can print it slightly undersize, heat the shaft with a soldering iron and push it on, I've done all three and they work great and yes your wife was right, a black control knob would have looked horrible.
she's always right :)
I did the same for a handle on a Bosch dishwasher. The repair part out lasted the dishwasher.
Dude, the Mrs. is always right. You know that 😂
100%
You should print a TPU insert for the inside. That would make things nice and tight while still being flexible enough to put the knob on the shaft.
Excellent job!
thx
Now that worked out very well
That looks like the same dryer I have (or at least really close).
Nice Job as usual... I would have just put some epoxy on it and not added the set screw... 😁
How do you smooth/round your cornes? Is that done by using a certain plugin?
Thanks.
Fredo6 plugin called RoundCorner
There still are good appliance brands. I don’t know if you have Siemens, Miele and Whirlpool in the US?
Whirlpool, not so much anymore. They make several brands to include KitchenAid and JennAir both of which I've had/have and have been pretty troublesome.
This was one of my first functional prints. Mine pretty closely replicates the original, but I should put a set screw on it.
I think you could have put the set screw completely behind the faceplate with and not had it showing, but that's a design decision.
Interesting....I never had a dryer knob that liked turning backwards (counter clockwise).
For a long time people said Speed Queen was the last good appliance, but they get mixed reviews now too.
this one seems not to care
Can you show how “taper at the top” feature realized? Is it two sketches, first sketch at the bottom from which offset made to make second sketch at the top and lofted boss/base feature made from both sketches?
Most 3d software should have a "draft" function, pick a normal plane and then pick the side you wish to taper.
Why not just extrude with a taper?
That's part of the extrude feature in at least F360.
I use sketchup because I'm stubborn and it's free, so I just resized the top geometry, but extrude with taper in a parametric design app would be the correct way to do it
Very nice fix.
Why use supports for something like rhis? Split it so the bottom part is separate and just fits / snaps into a hole of the actual knob. That way you need zero support and in some cases you can also play with the print orientation of the bottom part for more strength.
amazing!
looks great, good job
See??? Five millimeters IS a lot! 😀
Hahaha!
What CAD software do you use?
SketchUP
I’m surprised at what sketchup could do. No need for F360.
Perfect!
Siemens-Bosch (the German made for the German market), Miele, some of the NEFFs (Bosch' premium brand), all build well, too well actually, but they cost more than an used car, probably none of them available in the US though.
we have a Miele cannister vac and a sebo stand-up vac and my gosh what nice machines they are. .
Wouldn't it have been better if the set screw went into the flat?
I'm honestly not sure. I thought about it for a few minutes when I was designing it, and I came to the conclusion that since both parts are plastic, that it would be better to force the two flat faces together by putting the screw on the opposing side, and maximize the contact surface for torque transfer. If both parts were metal, I think set screw would be better on other side as you suggested.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday good point 👍🏻
I have to say Speed Queen makes great quality laundry equipment.
I've heard that. . I might have to start looking for when this thing dies. I've fixed the washer twice already too (belt and vent tube)
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Do you only print in PVA? My first time watching your videos.
14:22 Almost like you dont even need the set screw ...
Great results!
thx!
Branding doesn't mean much anymore. That GE was probably made in Mexico or overseas, possibly in a factory with a dirt floor. We don't make anything anymore, we just order stuff. Aren't you 'bout ready to switch over to Fusion? You don't know what you're missing.
I didn't even have to watch this video to suggest to you that you should have made the knob a little more of an obnoxious but funny shape. Got to pump the viral views somehow ...
lol
I have an inkling that Mrs. FPF would have to draw the line somewhere.
Right down the middle of the shaft, it's prime for it.
to be fair, that dryer looks like it is about 20 years old. so ....
To be fair.......
with a dryer I would have used abs or psa or pet, cause i feel the pla will wear down quickly
As long as it doesn't actually get hot, PLA should be fine. PET is a bit soft.
PLA is super strong. Why would it wear down in a room temp environment?
There's not much heat up there in the control panel. People tend to overlook PLA too much in my opinion. It's cheap, readily available, easy to print, has excellent layer adhesion, and is one of the stiffest filaments out there. Yeh, it doesn't suffer heat exposure as well as other filaments, and ASA/PETG is more UV stable, but if those things don't matter, PLA is a great choice.
I should add, even though other filaments are *more* UV stable, I just recently did a vid on PLA outside, and it holds up way better than most people think