Because I don't own a AMS, I typically do labeling by extruding (or pocketing/recessing) the letters 1mm or so. Then it is easy to paint the the letters. I like the UV light curing nail polish I "borrowed" from my wife for that.
This is the way especially for those who don't have filament changing set up. If I didn't see this comment I was ready to suggest it myself. :) Dab of hot glue or CA glue for extra hold just in case.
This whole project was stunningly well executed. Beautiful work. :) On the video front, for smooth panning shots, if your camera is able try shooting at 120fps and moving the camera quickly through various arcs. When slowed down to 30fps they look buttery smooth, almost like they were on a gimbal.
FreeCAD is free for commercial use (free for ANY use). There have been huge improvements in the latest dev version (0.22) which is going to be released as Version 1.0.0 in August so if you try FreeCAD, use one of those versions, not the older versions. 😎
Yes that's also possible@@OttoGlassVPersonally I'm not a fan of the Ondsel Lens thing but others might like it. I like what Ondsel are doing to push the project forward and I think they're contributing all new features back to the parent project so they will likely appear in FreeCAD anyway at some point. 😎
It seems to be improving and it's hard to beat the price. One of the problems I found in trying it was discovering that commercial CAD programs spoil us with features and we also get comfortable using them, to switch is a very frustrating experience. For some one whos brain was not fixed on having used another it would be much easier learning curve I'm sure.
This was exactly the project that I have been putting off, Thank you for your channel and a great design! Printed in PETG black, no lettering printed great first try. Had to drill out the 3/32 hole. I've been using Sketchup for years for mostly architectural and woodworking projects. When I started machining, CNC, and 3D printing, I realized Sketchup wasn't the best tool for these. Solidworks is too expensive. The free ones were good, although I found Fusion 360 was worth the expense and learning curve. I look at it as the software is just another expensive tool as my lathe, CNC router, or X1C. Thank you
You could design in some supports to position the part on the build plate with the text surface parallel to the build plate so all the filament changes are done in the last few layers. You might end up needing supports for the storage compartment but they wont leave visible defects.
The storage space, labels and the cone shaped holes were great additions but the handle really made it pop. Very nice build. BTW, how do you like your 6 jaw chuck? What brand is it? Do you feel like you gain much over a 3 or 4 jaw, which all have there place, but for daily use? Great video!
thx! It's a shars, and I do really like it so far. It's not as nice as my Taiwanese 3-jaw, but it's better than most of the China imports. DO NOT buy a CME/Sanou. I have a nice 3-jaw Sanou on an indexer that tricked me into trying two of their larger chucks, and they were both garbage.
Excellent project. And as far as you getting carried away with the design, I do that all the time. I am currently in the middle of designing/printing a 500 watt, 640 Wh portable power station/Bluetooth speaker box. I continually refine the design as I test print the parts. When it is finally done it will be (hopefully) exactly as I envisioned it.
Regarding the M4 cap screw, if the handle is rounded, would the screw ever be flush? Would a printed push fit rounded cap meet aesthetic needs? Or is the size so small you wouldn't notice if the side of the screw head isn't flush with the handle curve?
I was aiming for the top of the cap being flush with the low points on the rounded handle, but the whole thing ended up ~1.5mm too low. I stopped in the right spot, tried the screw and thought I needed to go lower, but it was just hanging up on a burr :(
For this kind of lettering i sometimes design a small indentation where the letters need to be and in a second print i print little label plates with the letter/numbers i want and glue them with superglue to the Model
You should make a version with hollowed out lettering. That way those of us without a multi filament printer can still have the lettering and fill them in with enamel paint or epoxy if we choose.
since the lettering is a separate STL, that fills the hollowed out lettering, this is already how the STL is. Just bring in the STL for the base, but not the lettering
I enjoy your TH-cam videos. I think I would’ve made the handle out of hex stock, then it would’ve looked more like a Allen wrench. Look forward to your next video.
funny, my first thought was to actually just buy one of the long-handled 10 or 12mm wrenches from klein and use "it" as the handle, but I pivoted to just making my own as an excuse to play with the lathe and mill
Hey, I asked this on your last video, but maybe it got lost in the shuffle. Sorry for the copy/paste repost: I'm curious after following you for a while - What do you do (if anything) about material recycling? I'm at a point in my 3d printing where getting a shredder/extruder/spooler setup could pay for itself, but everyone who makes them wants thousands of USD for the machines. I'm not sure I'll ever be in a place where I can convince myself to spend $2.5k+ on a filament extruder.
I just don't think it's worth it, but I DO wish we had better recycling options. For now, mine are just going into the garbage. The cost/energy/time needed to recycle on a small scale just doesn't seem to make sense. Now throw in nozzle clogs unless everything you're putting in is perfectly clean (did static on the part pick up a wood chip, piece of metal, etc.?)
Have the same sets and thought now that would be a nice base, downloaded, thank you :), sliced then saw 19 hrs + print time and almost $24 cost using PET-CF. It's very nice but that nice isn't worth $24 to me. :( Time could be improved pretty easy with infill settings where the bulk of time is spent and PLA which would be fine for this would cut the cost substantially. May go that route, it would be a nice bench top addition.
Could have made a built in handle as a cavity at the rear top above the current cavity. Basically just some place to put your fingers in to lift it. Not sure if this means you need supports (quite possibly).
Pretty sure the fusion 360 cost is fixed for life as long as the seat is renewed each year. I got in early at $315, due again this October at some price.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday OnShape seems to be very popular, see it being used on TH-cam all the time. Does OnShape include CNC post processors? I do like the built in rendering in Fusion, just for fun.
Why didn’t you invert the order of one set of wrenches so on one side it goes from small to large and the other side goes from large to small? Then it wouldn’t have been as wide.
For lables i typically emboss and paint, rather than engraving, though uv resin in an engraved hole looks and feels much better though is more work and more expensive
These software subscription plans are just robbery, I've jumped over to plasticity(a reasonable one-time license fee.. like how software used to be..) and haven't looked back since, it's very unique in that you can make precise things, then you can shape and decimate them into oblivion and back again. It's basically become my ideal software for anything I'd like to print. Cons: not parametric, but I've never really needed that for my designs so..
an easy work around to the color change problem, is to print all in 1 color with the raised text, then after the print is done go over the lettering with a fine tipped paint pen, save the extra 8 hours, lol!
Why don't you turn the flat surface of the model with the numbers on it, the single piece in between the two sets of holes, into a separate plate with the numbers on it. Like a name place for an office but with the text turned sideways (compared to a normal name place) and the shape isn't a pure rectangle. I hope that makes sense. You could cut out a slot for label plate in the main model, and then print the label plate separately. Once it's printed, take off the build plate and then glue it in place. If the label plate is too long for the printer, cut it in 1/2. That in theory would save a lot of time and unnecessary filament changes as the label plate wouldn't need to be more than a few millimeters high.
If you print this on an angle (yes, it will require supports) then the top surface can be flat so that the lettering can be printed in colour with one change.
yes, however, the supports would be on the inverted funnels, which we want to be as smooth as possible, to enable self alignment when putting the wrenches in
Don't make a spacer for the cap screw, make a button cover for it that sits flush and superglue it into place. Flush it up with the handle and make it disappear.
That's a fair observation. In my shop, I do tend to hit all my towels with a rag if they are dirty before returning them to wherever they go, but eventual build-up is inevitable. At some point I'll have to hit them with the blow gun.
Fusion 360 is quite expensive and since I've learned it the price went up three times, me personally I've looking into 3d Solidworks for makers not super expensive seems to be just as good if not better than fusion
About the infill part @4:25 ; no gyroid is not necessarily the strongest infill. Thomas Sanladerer just recently testet this in his lastest video: th-cam.com/video/nV3GbN6hLjg/w-d-xo.html Ultra short summary: use cubic infill!
If it's not going to pay for itself you are not being cheap, and I hope people know that you don't need the purge tower it's just extra wasted filament.
You can probably get away with _drastically less_ infill. See @MadeWithLayers's (Thomas Sanladerer) latest video titled "Rethink how you use 3D printer infill!".
th-cam.com/video/0eXeOMuBtYo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VY_IB1eOAQDhLbi5 OnShape does sponsor some makers. Besides your vids, RVtestflight is my other favorite TH-camr. He actually sponsors OnShape and her makes great models. .
![[UNCUT] "บอสณวัฒน์" แฉ! แหล่งซุกเงินแก๊งบอส ขยันผิดที่ไม่กี่ปีก็เข้าคุก l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l17ต.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BL56qIfXYZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Because I don't own a AMS, I typically do labeling by extruding (or pocketing/recessing) the letters 1mm or so. Then it is easy to paint the the letters.
I like the UV light curing nail polish I "borrowed" from my wife for that.
Hey Mate, why don,t you make the lettering as a Inlay to print it seperatly?
great idea
This is the way especially for those who don't have filament changing set up. If I didn't see this comment I was ready to suggest it myself. :) Dab of hot glue or CA glue for extra hold just in case.
Freecad can be frustrating to use but the community support is great and the development is very active.
This whole project was stunningly well executed. Beautiful work. :)
On the video front, for smooth panning shots, if your camera is able try shooting at 120fps and moving the camera quickly through various arcs. When slowed down to 30fps they look buttery smooth, almost like they were on a gimbal.
thx, I'll have to give that a try!
FreeCAD is free for commercial use (free for ANY use). There have been huge improvements in the latest dev version (0.22) which is going to be released as Version 1.0.0 in August so if you try FreeCAD, use one of those versions, not the older versions. 😎
From what I've seen Ondsel might work as well since it has the same license with a more refined UI. (It's a freecad derivative)
Yes I also second freecad, it is more clunky than Onshape, but at least it does all the "cad things"
Yes that's also possible@@OttoGlassVPersonally I'm not a fan of the Ondsel Lens thing but others might like it. I like what Ondsel are doing to push the project forward and I think they're contributing all new features back to the parent project so they will likely appear in FreeCAD anyway at some point. 😎
It seems to be improving and it's hard to beat the price. One of the problems I found in trying it was discovering that commercial CAD programs spoil us with features and we also get comfortable using them, to switch is a very frustrating experience. For some one whos brain was not fixed on having used another it would be much easier learning curve I'm sure.
You could make the labels a separate part/ plate. Thank you can print it flat and it saves lots of fillement changes. And it saves fillement and time.
That’s a great idea that I’ve never considered. I’m now already thinking about how to cleverly utilize this in my next project. Thanks 🙏
Genius! Thanks!
yep, great idea
@@FunctionalPrintFriday great video btw😁
@@Florens1989 thx
I like the storage for regular L shape allen wrenches. Thanks for sharing.
This was exactly the project that I have been putting off, Thank you for your channel and a great design!
Printed in PETG black, no lettering printed great first try. Had to drill out the 3/32 hole.
I've been using Sketchup for years for mostly architectural and woodworking projects.
When I started machining, CNC, and 3D printing, I realized Sketchup wasn't the best tool for these.
Solidworks is too expensive. The free ones were good, although I found Fusion 360 was worth the expense and learning curve.
I look at it as the software is just another expensive tool as my lathe, CNC router, or X1C. Thank you
You could design in some supports to position the part on the build plate with the text surface parallel to the build plate so all the filament changes are done in the last few layers. You might end up needing supports for the storage compartment but they wont leave visible defects.
The storage space, labels and the cone shaped holes were great additions but the handle really made it pop. Very nice build. BTW, how do you like your 6 jaw chuck? What brand is it? Do you feel like you gain much over a 3 or 4 jaw, which all have there place, but for daily use? Great video!
thx! It's a shars, and I do really like it so far. It's not as nice as my Taiwanese 3-jaw, but it's better than most of the China imports. DO NOT buy a CME/Sanou. I have a nice 3-jaw Sanou on an indexer that tricked me into trying two of their larger chucks, and they were both garbage.
Excellent project. And as far as you getting carried away with the design, I do that all the time. I am currently in the middle of designing/printing a 500 watt, 640 Wh portable power station/Bluetooth speaker box. I continually refine the design as I test print the parts. When it is finally done it will be (hopefully) exactly as I envisioned it.
That handle is awesome, reminds me of an old school T shifter (thinking of hurst)
Regarding the M4 cap screw, if the handle is rounded, would the screw ever be flush? Would a printed push fit rounded cap meet aesthetic needs? Or is the size so small you wouldn't notice if the side of the screw head isn't flush with the handle curve?
I was aiming for the top of the cap being flush with the low points on the rounded handle, but the whole thing ended up ~1.5mm too low. I stopped in the right spot, tried the screw and thought I needed to go lower, but it was just hanging up on a burr :(
@@FunctionalPrintFriday LOL!
"Don't you hate when that happens!?"
Looks great. You could have the lettering print flat, as a 2-color inlay. Even comon printers can do that with a filament swap halfway through.
Looks really great, good work!
thx
For this kind of lettering i sometimes design a small indentation where the letters need to be and in a second print i print little label plates with the letter/numbers i want and glue them with superglue to the Model
great project. what font do you use for your prints?
thx! I enjoy your projects/vids as well. I most often just use Arial Black
could you have made the label area separate and insert it after to cut down on print time?
yes, great idea. if I ever revise it, I'll do this
I like your shop made handle but a classic Hurst shifter handle would be just plain cool! ;-)
You should make a version with hollowed out lettering. That way those of us without a multi filament printer can still have the lettering and fill them in with enamel paint or epoxy if we choose.
since the lettering is a separate STL, that fills the hollowed out lettering, this is already how the STL is. Just bring in the STL for the base, but not the lettering
I enjoy your TH-cam videos. I think I would’ve made the handle out of hex stock, then it would’ve looked more like a Allen wrench. Look forward to your next video.
funny, my first thought was to actually just buy one of the long-handled 10 or 12mm wrenches from klein and use "it" as the handle, but I pivoted to just making my own as an excuse to play with the lathe and mill
Looks great
Hey, I asked this on your last video, but maybe it got lost in the shuffle. Sorry for the copy/paste repost:
I'm curious after following you for a while - What do you do (if anything) about material recycling? I'm at a point in my 3d printing where getting a shredder/extruder/spooler setup could pay for itself, but everyone who makes them wants thousands of USD for the machines. I'm not sure I'll ever be in a place where I can convince myself to spend $2.5k+ on a filament extruder.
I just don't think it's worth it, but I DO wish we had better recycling options. For now, mine are just going into the garbage. The cost/energy/time needed to recycle on a small scale just doesn't seem to make sense. Now throw in nozzle clogs unless everything you're putting in is perfectly clean (did static on the part pick up a wood chip, piece of metal, etc.?)
For labeling... you could simply embosse them a couple of mm and fill the letter with playdoo of your favorite color
silicone caulk works well too
Have the same sets and thought now that would be a nice base, downloaded, thank you :), sliced then saw 19 hrs + print time and almost $24 cost using PET-CF. It's very nice but that nice isn't worth $24 to me. :(
Time could be improved pretty easy with infill settings where the bulk of time is spent and PLA which would be fine for this would cut the cost substantially. May go that route, it would be a nice bench top addition.
Could have made a built in handle as a cavity at the rear top above the current cavity. Basically just some place to put your fingers in to lift it. Not sure if this means you need supports (quite possibly).
You should check out the Community version of Siemens SolidEdge.
Love the video (as always) but I agree..... Please get Fusion!
thank you!
So question. Do you make your designs for downloads?
yes, link is in the description
Pretty sure the fusion 360 cost is fixed for life as long as the seat is renewed each year. I got in early at $315, due again this October at some price.
interesting, I need to look into this. I think i'd still rather use onshape though
@@FunctionalPrintFriday OnShape seems to be very popular, see it being used on TH-cam all the time. Does OnShape include CNC post processors? I do like the built in rendering in Fusion, just for fun.
Why didn’t you invert the order of one set of wrenches so on one side it goes from small to large and the other side goes from large to small? Then it wouldn’t have been as wide.
awesome
thx
Consider a printed handle for the masses. Printed hollow stem with all-thread as a spine.
The handle should be ok if done as two halves glued together, so the layer lines are working for you
For lables i typically emboss and paint, rather than engraving, though uv resin in an engraved hole looks and feels much better though is more work and more expensive
Forgot to mention, in your thinking on Fusion 360, it has quite a few tools to assist in converting STL's to solid's that may be of interest to you.
These software subscription plans are just robbery, I've jumped over to plasticity(a reasonable one-time license fee.. like how software used to be..) and haven't looked back since, it's very unique in that you can make precise things, then you can shape and decimate them into oblivion and back again. It's basically become my ideal software for anything I'd like to print. Cons: not parametric, but I've never really needed that for my designs so..
an easy work around to the color change problem, is to print all in 1 color with the raised text, then after the print is done go over the lettering with a fine tipped paint pen, save the extra 8 hours, lol!
What I used to do was print a color I don’t use, spray paint it black and hit the raised text with sandpaper! Worked every time
Why don't you turn the flat surface of the model with the numbers on it, the single piece in between the two sets of holes, into a separate plate with the numbers on it. Like a name place for an office but with the text turned sideways (compared to a normal name place) and the shape isn't a pure rectangle. I hope that makes sense.
You could cut out a slot for label plate in the main model, and then print the label plate separately. Once it's printed, take off the build plate and then glue it in place. If the label plate is too long for the printer, cut it in 1/2.
That in theory would save a lot of time and unnecessary filament changes as the label plate wouldn't need to be more than a few millimeters high.
yes, great idea. if I ever revise it, I'll do this
If you print this on an angle (yes, it will require supports) then the top surface can be flat so that the lettering can be printed in colour with one change.
yes, however, the supports would be on the inverted funnels, which we want to be as smooth as possible, to enable self alignment when putting the wrenches in
Plenty of people use the free version of fusion for educational videos on TH-cam.
Instead of making a spacer for the hex bolt why not just print a snap in cover for the hole.
Don't make a spacer for the cap screw, make a button cover for it that sits flush and superglue it into place. Flush it up with the handle and make it disappear.
The holes are closed at the bottom so if dirt or anything else falls in there it's a pain to clear it again.
That's a fair observation. In my shop, I do tend to hit all my towels with a rag if they are dirty before returning them to wherever they go, but eventual build-up is inevitable. At some point I'll have to hit them with the blow gun.
Fusion 360 is quite expensive and since I've learned it the price went up three times, me personally I've looking into 3d Solidworks for makers not super expensive seems to be just as good if not better than fusion
You need a fiber-laser for the labels, especially if you don't have one yet ;)
funny you should mention that :) stay tuned.
I would load it up with M4 t nuts.
Extrude the lettering up from the surface so they’re raised and hit with a paint pen.
make the label as an insert next time
About the infill part @4:25 ; no gyroid is not necessarily the strongest infill.
Thomas Sanladerer just recently testet this in his lastest video: th-cam.com/video/nV3GbN6hLjg/w-d-xo.html
Ultra short summary: use cubic infill!
Just raise the lettering and paint them, or emboss them.
If it's not going to pay for itself you are not being cheap, and I hope people know that you don't need the purge tower it's just extra wasted filament.
Could just recess the lettering, then come back through with a paint pen
You can probably get away with _drastically less_ infill.
See @MadeWithLayers's (Thomas Sanladerer) latest video titled "Rethink how you use 3D printer infill!".
th-cam.com/video/0eXeOMuBtYo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VY_IB1eOAQDhLbi5
OnShape does sponsor some makers. Besides your vids, RVtestflight is my other favorite TH-camr. He actually sponsors OnShape and her makes great models. .
Yeh, been sub'd on his channel for a long time. RcLifeOn is another great one.
@FunctionalPrintFriday thanks for the tip. I'll check him out.