Homemade digital power supply with Arduino
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
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⚠️I've just changed that switch with a plastic insulated one. Sorry!!!!!!
I've tried to amke a second digital power supply. The last one was a bit slow due to the use of an TFT display. I hope this project will teach you something. More details below.
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-----------------LINKS-------------------
Tutorial website: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardu...
Schematic: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardu...
Code: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardu...
Potentiometer support STL 3D files: www.electronoobs.com/images/A...
3D case files (extra): www.electronoobs.com/images/A...
-----------------VIDEOS-------------------
TFT display digital supply: • Arduino Digital Power ...
Homemade power supply: • DIY variable bench pow...
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#digital
#supply
#homemade - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Wow the idea with the potentiometers is so genius love it!!
You are just awesome. You are taking your tutorials to next level... well done. Well explained.
Nice job and I also like your hand Made rotary potentiometer.great idea sir.
For the last week i have been pondering making a power supply. Nice timing with this video.
Very interesting project, dude! Great work! 😃
all hail the FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER :)
I made something like this years ago. I didn't use a Buck Converter but a separate power supply for controlling the AVR and a relay to control the output.
May I point out a few things. The filter Capacitor is way too small, I would go with 2200uF if not more and also toss in a 100nF Capacitor to snub out any high frequencies after the main Filter cap and also one on the output of the Buck converter. You might be able to drop the BD139 and replace the MOSFET with a Logic Level MOSFET. The Output switch is nice to have but having the Switch like that on the high side can wear out the switch if there is a bunch of current draw. A relay or Optoisolator in line of the switch will work better, not to mention then you can easily add another feature such as a tactile switch to control the output from the Arduino. Same feature can be used to control the Mains power as well.
I always like your projects. thank you
Smart with the potentiometer. Nice power supply.
Nice job here.
I noticed that you mentioned that using, what looks like a Nextion display, @0:17, and saying that it just slowed things down.
I am a big user of these amazing Nextion displays. And there are some tricks to help in having it not slow things down.
On one project, where I'm using an Enhanced display, with a full Digital Clock feature, I found the code (inside the Nextion) really slowed things down. The code handles everything, from figuring out the seconds, minutes, hours, days, day of week, month, year, leap year, and auto Daylight savings time switching. Very cool.
BUT, OMG, it ran so slowly.
So I looked at my code and quickly figured out why. It was because, I was running the ENTIRE code blocks in a very fast timer (50ms).
Well of course that slowed things down. LOL
To address that, I did a couple of things.
- I used IF statements to ONLY execute the sections of code that really needed to be executed at that moment. Like, if the minutes changes, hours changed, day changed, month change, etc. Rather than ALL that code constantly running.
- I reduced the timer to 250 or 400 ms as 50 was just too fast and not necessary.
Basically, this made things way more efficient and things ran FAST!
Then, for the code in the Arduino, much the same where I used IF statements to ONLY run the needed code at that time.
I also use a NON-BLOCKING TIMER (Neotimer) in the main loop to ONLY execute code at certain intervals rather than saturating everything with super fast execution that just wasn't necessary.
By only executing what is needed at that moment, keeps things running fast.
The other thing I notice, is that many if not most people configure the Nextion to run at 9600 baud! THIS IS WAY TOO SLOW and not necessary. I run mine all at 115200 baud. I do create a "baud" page so that I can adjust the baud in case I need it. IT's just a button that cycles through several baud rates. Once set, I use BAUDS to lock it into the Nextion.
This makes communications very fast.
The one thing that does slow down and needs some fun coding to keep it fast, is the "wave form" object in the Nextion.
Usually, other than for fun or coolness, it's not actually necessary.
For this project of yours, I wouldn't be using it as the text displayed is more than sufficient.
I just mention all that because using a Nextion is so much easier to use that those old style strip LCDs and the Nextion really adds a professional look to projects.
So to sum up, the Nextion CAN BE very fast if coded correctly.
Awsome video, thanks for sharing this amazing project
a retro video of your 1st tv or radio? excellent video. your " mother-of-invention" (=necessity) cermet knob unique!
Perfect! Thank you
If you have 28V AC you would get 39,48V DC (VAC * 1.41) so what's correct here? Those eBay-DC-DC-modules rarely like high input voltages.
Nicely done
Muy bueno! Posteamos con pocas horas de diferencia una fuente con Arduino (la mía es solo concepto), me ha gustado tu proeycto. Tengo que terminar el mío en algo final como lo que mostraste aquí! Me gusta tu canal! Un Saludo desde Argentina!!
Muchas gracias! saludos de España!
Hii
Might be an idea to have the LCD Backlight flash when the power supply is into current limiting. It should be fairly easy to implement in software...
full bridge rectifier!!!
The world needs a good open source power supply, from the eevblog R&S teardown its pretty clear, modular pre-regulators followed by a linear regulator stage is the way to go. but who will commit to this engineering pilgrimage, its no dummy work. good first attempt! better improvement remains.
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⚠️I've just changed that switch with a plastic insulated one. Sorry!!!!!!
Bit late but love it .....thanks mate....
nice job man 👍
Great channel!. Keep it up
Thanks friend iam really interest for your project. I hope you always share your project to your youtube... Iam from indonesia. Good job
Hi, very god one , I have a doubt pls clarify. I saw the N-Mosfet used at high side , doesn't need gate driver ? u used it directly to arduino , can it work ?
GREAT BROO , KEEP TEACHING US . . .
please can you make video on Eeprom storage because i am only able to save 8bit par address and there is no video on bit shift please make it , i am sure you will explain very well . . . i think after your explanation would help so many electronic enthusias . . .
Hola, lo espero el proyecto por tu canal en español, no entiendo nada de inglés ( estudie francés 😢), gracias....son muy buenos tus proyectos, se aprende mucho.
For a better and powerfull powersupply what modification i have to do with the buck converter circuit??????
Nice vid!! At 5:18 looks like a rectifier, not transformer.
Can't you print a housing with your TronXY 3D Printer?
Greetings from Germany!
Nice ideas but flawed, as mentioned by others, including the fact that it REALLY isn't a good idea to enclose a fairly large heat generating device inside a plywood case. OK for testing maybe but definitely not for long term usage. This is especially true since building a metal case can just as easily be accomplished using scrap steel or aluminium sheet. Old PC case side panels make for an excellent basis for a metal casing and smart use of existing bends can help minimise the amount of work needed. Usually an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade and a decent file is all that is needed for preparation and a drill and bit/s plus screws, bolts or rivets according to choice or preference for assembly.
For the rectifier, can I use KBPC3510 instead of KBPC610?
I AM SO TRIGGERED BY "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER" !!! :D Cool!
When are you publishing the QnA...
And awesome project as always..
😊😊
soon!
Did you say what the power supply output voltage / current / power range was? (Other than “less than 15v” output)
Good project.......I like a lot....!!!!
You could have used switches to control voltage and current instead of knobs. The most difficult part was covered. Thanks for sharing!
Never mind, found part two of this video. ;-)
like your homemade potentiometer
Another idea is to intercept the buck module feedback path with Arduino for better regulation.
Perfect
There should buttons for output power presets like 3v3 , 5v , 12v etc. And timer functions too. That will be really Handy.
Hello, can I replace the current sensor (Acs712) instead of (MAX471)? How will the code be?
Красавчик! Так держать!
TH-cam/google is reading my mind.
I've literally had this project in mind.
Can i use dc dc buck converter module instead of making buck converter??
Nice and simple. Here in USA using 120 vac I like to build variables voltage and amp. However, need about 20 amp max and under 50 voltage. I like to use OLED meter instead. I could build metal case. I also like safety features like simple switches to turn on and off for low and high amp. Got ideas?
I could not find any match need from TH-cam, I like many idea you created enjoy your videos.
Perfection
I had a question about custom pcb... like where do you get the smd components from? Its hard to search in local online shop... do u know any electronic component supplier?
Try LCSC
I have problem with charge lead acid battery
I have 30 ampere trasformer but when I charge the 100Amh battery only takes 5 ampere
is there any circuit helps me to control current up to 30 ampere ?
Very good 👍
Can I replace max471 with acs712 current module?
Power electronics in a wooden case, what could possibly go wrong? :D Still thank you for the nicely made Video!
I made the same mistake, and one of the nuts holding the power output dropped between terminals of the 220V input. I was lucky it just sticked to a tape and didn't move a lot!
Bardzo cenię Twoje projekty jednak tutaj mamy tranzystor MOSFET-N sterowany w niewłaściwy sposób. Napięcie bramki U G-S zależy od napięcia wyjściowego. Im większe U out tym mniejsze U G-S. Użyj MOSFET-P albo zastosuj gatedriver np. IR2184 albo podobny. Popatrz na schemat popularnej ładowarki IMAX B6, przetwornica sterowana procesorem wytwarza napięcia niższe albo wyższe od zasilającego.
Pozdrowienia z Polski
You can replace the potentiometer of buck converter module with digital potentiometer
Can i made with rotary encoder control
How much ampere it can draw
Can you change potentiometer of buck converter with digital potentiometer and control with arduino?
Nice project! Be careful with this buck converter. Some modules from eBay uses fake electrolyte capacitors at incoming voltage. They have 50V description but they are more like 25V. I like pretty nice your knobs design but I don’t think is a good idea to use hot glue.
bravo!
6:15 am I seeing 30-80V rated cable used on 230V? And is that a 120V switch? :p
My man....♥️♥️
I think you have your MOSFET back to front in the schematic (source and drain swapped).
hello! did you measure frequency of PWM, and what period of 1 loop in ms or us?
Did you watch the video???? Look at the 'scope at 3:36!
Good video.
Uses transformer for linear power, then uses buck converter. Transformers are expensive, if you already have that, use that to its fullest extent and make linear power supply. Arduino shouldn't be responsible for power loop. It must be done in hardware and can control the current and voltage from potentiometers. Arduino is just for setting the values.
Your banana needs an upgrade. Looks a bit outdated...
Banana 😂😂😂😂 everyone got a default banana man😂😂😂😂😂
Messing with mains power is scary for me. I bought a 12v 10A PSU and connected a Step up/down to it myself
I use old laptop power supplies for this sort of thing, but if I didn't have one, I would buy an off the shelf switching power supply like you did. Transformers are heavy.
Where are you from
Yeah well you really get Scott this week...
What maximum voltage and current irfz44 can handle in this configuration. thanks in advance.
google irfz44n datasheet
Doesn't look bad, but for power supplies you should add a fuse and make use of the earth pin on your socket or use a 2 pin socket.
Also if youre not a professional electrical technician, you shouldn't build anything with 230v ac, it will kill you if you get a shock. Stay save guys!
Most of Europe is 230Vac 50 Hz mains.
He really needs a fuse and proper grounding!
NO high volage grounding... ?
+1 for the engineering skill with the potentiometer
Please make video on STEMpedia Very nice Arduino kit
You can use a better bigger transformer. You've more space in your wooden box.This particular transformer of yours is an Aluminium one and that is cheap. Use a good copper transformer with tight windings. You might get better output powers.
Why not control the lm2596 with arduino
Ce valoare au potentiometrele
how can i made DIGITAL HIGH VOLTAGE GENEATOR with LCD showing the Voltage The current and the frequency ?
I made my power supply based on ATX PSU, with LM723 and double TIP3055, the only thing which arduino\
0:50
YAY!!
Still I gig in my class when teacher says rectifier...
does the buck converter only supply to the nano???
Nano and LCD
@@ELECTRONOOBS Can i just use a 5v regulator instead
Yeah, I found that very weird as well. Why not use the integrated 7805?
PS: what the heck’s up with that face as avatar? I’m seeing it everywhere on TH-cam! Is it one of the default avatars or what?
U r awesome. 😍
Please make Arduino battery charger, I think code is available on Google for Imax b6 charger work on atmega ic
Can u make a packaging machine using Arduino
The schematic mosfet is P-ch but part list using N-ch MOSFET. which is right?
IRFZ44N is a N-Channel MOSFET
I've sued N-ch, sorry for the schematic!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Thank you for answering :)
@@ELECTRONOOBS wouldn't that make the fet hot because it's in linear mode, just above the Vgs(th) of the fet at that load, instead of fully turned on? That's also why your max voltage is Vin - Vgs(th). Use a charge pump to get above the incoming and drive the fet's gate with Vsource+5v: less heat, more stability (max voltage not dependent on I), and a higher max voltage on your final output.
nice
I wonder what Senor DiodeGoneWild would say about your "potentiometer engineering".
This is a great exercise in programming but NEVER NEVER use a microprocesor as a feedback element. It is too slow and can kill load. Response can be hundreds of milliseconds.
Example: Try setting +5V into 5 ohm (1A) load then open circuit load. The output voltage will overshoot until microprocessor senses high voltage and reduces mark-space ratio.
A better solution is to scrap the Arduino and use a conventional buck converter. Even the buck converter you use to generate +5V will be a better solution.
Thanks. I'm planning on using a digital potentiometer + normal buck converter and in that way all the feedback is hardware not software! Thanks!
Full Bridge Rectifier!!!
i am gonna make it
Nice
Will you please help me. in space there are no internet connection so how the satellite transfer data please make a step by step tutorial on it make me understand about it Por favor podría usted ayudarme. en el espacio no hay conexión a Internet, por lo tanto, la forma en que los datos de transferencia de satélites hacen un tutorial paso a paso sobre esto, háganlo comprender
hi am from india. can you pls make simple distance measuring device with multi output like 1)Centimeter 2) Inch 3)feet 4)mm with generic audirno, beardboard pls
Foool bridge rectifiyaah😂😂😂😂
Can go to 0volts output ?
no!
Thank you for sharing your ideas with us.
And no offense, but your housing would not even go through as a bird feeder. No mechanical stability, no serious isolation, so no protection against the mains voltage. And the rest: terribly bad and slow control system with feedback that probably will destroy some connected devices. Not necessarily characteristics that one would like to have with a stabilized laboratory power supply.
In this sense, this is a real "killer application";)
But all this is not a lost effort. Do a second part by showing what can go wrong. This certainly has high educational value and gives a interesting video
- The implications of "This has always worked for me" where you show statistics on deaths with electronics
- Have a nice tea with your power supply and demonstrate the absorbency of wood
- Do some pulse response tests and show off crazy voltages gone haywire
- Make a "burn-in" test, you know what i mean;)
- Reaction to mechanical stress: Get drunk(of course simulated), have a slippery with your elbow on top of the case. 10 Electroboom plus points:)
- EMI stress test: Turn this contraption into a radio emitter and communicate with aliens.
- Short-Circuit: They are the poor-man's equivalent of "pie in the face" from slapstick comedy and show if your device is reliable
- All comes with a cost! Show why switch mode supplies are a good thing in consumer devices. But they have a special or narrow range of operation. A linear regulator is worse in terms of efficiency but can be made with few parts that introduce no extra culprits and fit to a very wide output range with stable parameters. That is what you want in the laboratory and not an additional source of uncertainty.
Design considerations and what a laboratory power supply should do:
1) Adjust voltage and limit current.
2) Bring these values to your Device Under Test.
3) No. 1 and 2 safe, reliable, fast and accessible.
That means 2 handy Knobs under 2 Analog volt-/amperemeters with one output switch.
All other user interface stuff is luxury, in the best case an extension or make things worse. As an example take digital displays: They are slow and incompatible with the human mind(:P), like the 4.99999 - 5.00001V trap for the young players.
But where is the fun? Thanks for the video and stay innovative:)
HI there, off-topic; But I really need your help guys
I've been exploding my brain the whole day. in my arduino , when a condition is met
I want to turn a pin HIGH for one minute then go LOW ignoring the condition if is still on at that moment, without using delays.
So far, I managed to turn it on and off only when the condition is false (which is not what I want) any help please.
Greetings from Tanzania
this is my loop at a moment:
void loop() {
currentTime = millis();
if ( (digitalRead(sensor) == HIGH) || (timeRunning == 1)){
if (timeRunning == 0){
startTime =millis();
timeRunning = 1; // flag to show timer is started
digitalWrite(motor, HIGH); //make sure motor is powered
digitalWrite(fanPin, HIGH);
}
elapsedTime = currentTime - startTime;
if (elapsedTime >=oneMinute){
digitalWrite(fanPin, LOW);
digitalWrite(motor, LOW);// un-power the motor
timeRunning = 0;
}
}
}
I'm not good with arduino guys, sorry for the bad code, please advice
soo...its regulated power supply using microcontroller...great idea...
Terrible idea (except for theory / learning). I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. An 7805 voltage reg would have made so much more sense for the voltage reference (connected to the 2 pots to ground).
Hi you appear to have the wrong web links in the parts section from the toggle switch down..nice video keep them coming..
Sorry. I've just changed that. Thanks!
Using An MCU sounds scary to me for current limiting. I rather do it without a MCU! I forgot how to though. But its far harder and so much effort