QIDI Q1 3D Printer - Is it for you?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2024
- This 3D printer is far better than my previous 3D printer. They have come a long way baby.
Q1 Pro 3D Printer is On Sale Now for $469, save $130 before it goes back to $600.
This is Seeker's affiliate link: qidi3d.com?sca_ref=5959670.X0PNd9qMCR
Thank you for supporting the videos with your purchase.
There are also some Q1's at Amazon, they cost a little more, but you don't have to wait. amzn.to/4d8MsvN
PLA Filament amzn.to/49J0Esv
ASA Filament amzn.to/3xGjG5A
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"Trickin Pickin" performed by Doug Waterman
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Q1 Pro 3D Printer is On Sale Now for $469, save $130 before it goes back to $600. qidi3d.com?sca_ref=5959670.X0PNd9qMCR
There are also some Q1's at Amazon, they cost a little more, but you don't have to wait. amzn.to/4d8MsvN
Good Ad. You're a good spokesman: you speak directly do their target audience. And if it helps pay for your excursions for marine research... more power to 'ya.
@@lawrenceallen8096 Thanks. But if it was crap I'd tell ya. I don't think Dewalt is going to send me any of their new tools again. And l like their tools. ....well, the older ones that had lock-on switches and less safety garbage. : )
@@SVSeeker No worries. That's why your endorsements are worthwhile: you fans know you would say they're crap if they are. Nobody watches advertisements anymore.
This is great! But as you mentioned, I dont recommend using PLA for anything on the boat, that stuff degrades faster than my enthusiasm for interpretive dance lol. Use the engineering filaments, ABS, Nylon, and the fancy stuff that won't soak up water from the air and become brittle or won't start to decompose like the degradable PLA. I have parts made from PLA that were a model for a mechanical watch mechanism so they were under constant strain from a year ago they have broken sitting on a shelf indoor without even being used with no exposure to the elements, PLA is for prototyping not for actual implementation. PLA becomes brittle and weak, not that you cant make it stronger, you can print bulkier and denser with higher infill and get a hulking part, 100%, but I wouldnt risk it and I dont want your enthusiasm for this great technology to be bruised by using material not meant for long term use and exposure to the elements.
I had black PLA irrigation stakes in a flowerpot, exposed to sun and rain for about 5 years. They did not "degrade" one bit, though they got deformed by the heat and the constant pressure of the PVC capillary pipe they were holding. That said, I'd avoid PLA just because it melts at a way too low temperature and when it soaks moisture it becomes brittle. PETg is similar enough for printing quality and will survive a bit better when exposed to the elements. PLA is "in theory" biodegradable, but it has to be composted in some very specific conditions.
Nylon is notorious for picking up water.
Mate! The interpretive dance the students done for David Blaine when he was in the Ice Cube in London was lit!!!
@cwill6491 you're right, it is, but they also use nylon for toothbrush bristles so I wonder if nylon only has water concerns before printing due to the water causing sputtering in the heat chamber? Perhaps after printing is conplete the water absorbed doesn't have much drawback in nylon? I have never printed nylon so I'm just guessing here. My new fancy printer capable of nylon printing won't arrive for weeks sadly.
For utility parts that don’t require high resolution, swap the stock nozzle out for one with a larger diameter. Parts are stronger and print much much faster.
I've had all the traditional stuff in my workshop for years. Welder, drill press, various types of cutters and grinders, etc. I finally bit the bullet and bought a 3D printer last year and there is no going back. It is insane how much this thing contributes to damn near everything.
Additive manufacturing is an excellent resource to have on a boat in the open water!
PLA hates sunlight, but some spray paint will make it last longer.
been running a 3d print business for 5+ years now, they have come a long way. glad to see you have success!
It's sort of like a small version of Space X.
Fun Video Doug! Thanks you! Steve
Good Ad. You're a good spokesman: you speak directly do their target audience. And if it helps pay for your excursions for marine research... more power to 'ya.
its a learning curve at first but once you get in the groove and get comfortable with your slicer program it becomes a lot faster and easier!
Love this channel. Such a. great attitude to living and getting things done.
Thanks Doug. That was fantastic.
Hey Doug great video. I've been thinking about one of these and now you've gotten me hooked.
Wow! What a technology! Amazing stuff
hi richwaight, have you become a flat earther yet? If not I suggest viewing the 13 part series _what on earth happened_ in my about to learn how the earth is not a globe
That is one fancy printer.
Enjoy
Thank you my friend
As an "Old school Guy" I discovered 3D printing a couple of years ago & can't imagine not having it as part as my arsenal (with all my welders & machining equipment!) I think being bold enough to take on new tech is just as important & doing things "the old fashioned way" The possibilities in 3D printing just astound me!!
I think being bold enough to take on new tech is just as important & doing things "the old fashioned way" AMEN Brother!
Cool, Nice addition 👌🏻
What an amazing machine,
if you already have the CAD skills a 3d printer is the thing that just makes your ideas into reality
Doug. thank you for sharing this. Im definitely going to add this printer to my short list. This looks like the perfect upgrade from my ender 3s
it does look fancy for sure
I really like the hard TPU's. truly robust filament if you can handle a tiny bit of flex.
Looks pretty cool, glad to see you back.
More to come!
I purchased the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 last Black Friday. I love the printer, it is my second 3D printer. I also do not like the power switch being at the back.
I love the wifi connection. So easy to upload files to print.
That printer is cool 😎
nice printer you got there Doug, I love it! thanks!
So cool!
This is the best "Stupid" simple to the point video for the QIDI Q1 Pro. I am waiting on mine, should have it at the end of May. Great video no garbage talk infill.
Most of us like to make boats inside our 3d printers, but you have a 3d printer inside a boat 👏
A heads up for using TPU since you are in a marine environment. TPU is like Nylon with its sensitivity to relative humidity where it is stored. It isn't as bad as Nylon is, but it still needs to be stored in either a 5%-30% humidity environment or dried at 40 C to 45 C for 5 hours before printing with it. You can make storage boxes for your filament that have descant in them that you dry in the over periodically or you can dry the filament before printing. I won't go as bad as Nylon will with water in it, but your prints will still have problems if there is water in the filament.
yes, ASA would be the better choice for sunlight. Very nice video. Very helpful. Nice on the water fix of the filament out sensor!
All that's left is some science on how swell and pitching affect layer adhesion and that will have been a fruitfull purchase innit?
Joking aside it seems like a good machine, also flexible filament is good for making gaskets I hear. Should come in handy!
wow.,.,Tkzz for sharing,.,.,.peace
A lot of people have trouble running them in moist environments. I never have had that issue... Most of the improvements I have noticed had to do with the slicer program, as I still use the same printer from 10 years ago but I use the latest prusa slicer and get good results. Cura slicer too...Best of luck Doug, I am sure you find a million cool things to do with it.
It's not the printer that cares about humidity, it's the filament. Some types really absorb water quickly l and become difficult. A filament dryer is useful if required.
Doug, I suggested this a month or so ago and I seem to remember you laughing at me lol look at you go now!!
I do alot of cad and have designed thousands of prints and can help design strong parts if you need any help just let me know!! Glad to see the upgrades!
BTW Cura slicer is much easier to work with! PETG, Abs, and ASA are your best friends
Well now he's getting paid for it so it's different. Lol
Awesome! It IS almost like Star Trek! Replicate all kinds of custom parts. Great purchase.
Never messed with one of those--as always, enjoy learning from your videos!
It is an excellent "Think-A-Ma-Bob" maker for little stuff on a boat or around a house. It has been busy printing brackets and mounts for days and has weeks of work ahead of it.
Nice custom hooks Doug, the exact same ones from aft deck and some glued in foam from a piece of insulation will be great for fishing rods I think !
Next project on your list could be some multi piece spray chines for the red Whaley tender... 1 or 2 curved transitional pieces for bow on each side mirrored, and straight wider segments after that going aft ? Add a little wedge or dovetail for a tight fit between pieces for some sealer so they don't get scraped off easily by rubbing on hull or docks ? You could even sell or trade that enhancement back to the Whaley folks and have them make it in high density plastic or a rubber material... If you don't want to use riv-nuts in hull for mounting, could it be affixed with a tensioning cable or something running through the middle of 3D parts ?
All kinds of stuff comes to mind.
Highley suggest using PETG instead of PLA or ABS. Just as easy to print as PLA while being Cheaper, stronger, and much longer lasting. Pla falls apart even in the shade from moisture. Which is plentiful on a boat.
Hi Doug! A chamfer instead of a fillet is better on overhangs in my experience. im currently starting a 3d printing business where i print holders for coin stacking. its great to see sv seeker in the water after alle the hours watching it be built!
On the boat a filament dryer is probably a good investment especially if you go with abs
There are a lot if slicers out there. I recommend finding what works best for you.
Do you think you will do some PLA loss castings? I Just finished watching your furnace video I need to get on making one of those!
I started 3D printing a very long time ago (probably 11 years ago) and things have changed so much. That machine prints super well. I will say also that these days most people moved to prusa printables because thingiverse went through a lot of sketchy stuff.
Thanks I did not know about prusa printables.
I was already considering getting one. Now I see it’s a must for me, someone that likes the freedom of making their own parts.
Never used CAD though. That’ll be a learning curve.
Best of luck to you
Fascinating stuff Doug! I know nothing about the PLA material, but would painting the part before installation protect it from eventual UV/salt/air/water degradation?
that's a fancy printer you got there!
PLA kinda sucks for everything I have ever used it for and so i just use PETG as its the same as water bottle plastic
just a little bit harder to print then pla
there is even carbon fiber and wood you can print with :)
I have 2 3d printer. And a 3rd on the way. The new one is resin
Gotta snub everything down. To tie, lash, or otherwise secure something on a ship or to a ship.
Lots of talk about filament here. I’ve had PETG parts outside on my boat for 3 years and it’s holding up perfectly. Hope this helps.
PLA gets brittle exposed to the elements, and melts when it gets hot (like in a car in the summer or on your metal boat deck?) Make sure to use ASA in those cases, can handle higher temps and is UV resistant!
It sure started making parts a lot faster than the printer head we added to my CNC table. And thanks for the tips. I'm just starting with Blender. I like Fusion, but I refused to rent software. BobCAD-CAM is not Fusion in any way, but it's simplicity means I can leave it from months and then come back and go right to work.
Great 3d printer. I have the anycubic Kobra max and i have an 1/10 RC car chassis completed and a RC 19 inch boat chassis that i can add to the a chris craft runabout i designed. Yes the design is the learning curve. I use blender and Shapr3d and the Cura slicer. Also, KICad can design your PC boards to put RC and arduino components on it and they come back from china in about 5 days. $.40 each.
I've got to start learning CAD, how do you find bobcad, is it the best starter program and are the costs to the DYI reasonable (nothing on their web site about costs). Thanks!
BobCad is fairly simple so I find it easy to come back to after months of not touching it. That and I own it. I don't every want to rent software. It also works without any connection to the internet so it's good for a boat. But there are lots of offers out there and some them open source and free.
McMaster-Carr online offer CAD files for pipe fittings and other thing which can be converted to 3D print files. If you are out at sea and need a fitting
Doug, interesting video, and that QIDI printer looks good. Impressed by the speed and ease! Thingiverse is a great resource and after building a 3d printer from a kit, which works extremely well (I was surprised and amazed) I’ve been impressed with PLA, PET and flex filament printing. My Prusa is nowhere near as fast or as big as the QIDI, but the software is very similar indeed (odd or not?). I like ‘gyroid’ infill, but it will shake your table even more. I rarely go >35% infill in PLA or PET but having thicker walls etc is very handy. Am just starting to try Fusion 360 and have experimented with Blender and a few others. Investing time in the CAD is key as you say, but there are plenty that are free. TinkerCad is also very simple to use. Not come across BobCAD-CAM, so will have to check it out, but I don’t CAM (yet). I can understand why you use the same software for everything. It’s all about getting the part made for the slicer. After than it’s all just runny gravy!
Not sure what's more impressive - the print strength or that you can do a pull up with that gut ;)
👍👌👏 I definitely like sturdy stuff and overbuilding things too. Should outlast me and even my children! 😁 ;-)
Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health in particular.
Looking at some screenshots of the filament sensor before and after you used the pliers to remove the screw and it appears you ripped several components from the board
Scratched it up for sure.
use a 45 degree chamfer for easier printing.
I never knew how much I would use a 3D printer until I got a 3D printer. Those QIDI printers are really nice. BTW, it's pronounced "CHEE-DEE" because it's an english spelling of the Chinese name. That's also why you are getting emails at midnight.
It was midnight but the English was better than mine. : )
@@SVSeeker AI can be useful in all sorts of ways.
As long as you paint the pla in something that will block UV it'll hold up
I've had a 3D printer for a couple of years now, but I find I often still make stuff the hard way and then sometime a few days later, I think to myself, "aw man I shoulda just 3D printed that thing" 😂
I recently got a 🏴☠️ version of Solidworks to practice on. I must check out that Bobcad program next
If you already know Solidworks, I not bother.
20:19 Where is that lake? (that dam lake?)
input shaping is like noise cancellation headphones. measures the mechanical sound and sends a overlapping signal to the motors to counteract how it mechanicaly deviates from the theoretical control signal
I didn't finish watching the video but for "Support Enforcers only" you have to manually add enforcers in places you wanted support. You were effectively printing with no supports.
if your going to store rolls of filament i hope you get a filament heater or i guess use your oven to get rid of moisture... i mean i cant imagine there would be much moisture out on the ocean lol....
Looks awesome but PLA may not react well to UV. Petg prints great and considered an engineering material.
Ive been printing for over 15 years and besides the price.. I dont see any advantage over the build quality of the Bambu Labs X1C.. Am I wrong anyone?
That's the thing with 3D printers people don't think about the cheaper they are the more heartache there is
Not when it comes to ANY new car and my 1997 Toyota. : )
@@SVSeeker to be fair 90s toyotas will outlive modern humanity
Shapr3D pretty good cad software that is easy to use. Would probably take you few min to design that part. I believe that you can use it for free as long as you only make 2 workspaces.
try ASA plastic, elegoo has 16$ spool for 1kg
your going to want to vent that printer when you print asa and your going to want to use asa for outdoor use
i would go for PETG, because PLA degrades outside (its some kind of Starch after all)
I'll give it a try.
when you get your first ender 3 without knowing a thing it really is hard finding everything you have to tune that's making your prints bad lol
You my friend have no idea what you are in for with that 3D printer, once the ideas start they may never stop
Everyone could use a little 'input shaping' IRL :)
What happened to going sailing??
A ) Stop shit from flying around. B ) Go sailing again and see what we missed. You got to do the work.
For large parts use 3-6 wall thickness with 5-10% infill to make it plenty strong. There is absolutely no need for more infill. For smaller parts you can bump it to ~25%. Also orient your parts in a way that the XY direction takes the load. The Z direction is much weaker as it relies on the bond between layers.
Don't use PLA for outdoors, it gets soft at ~50C.
Seems like you knocked some SMD components off from the filament sensor.
Qidi is a clone of the Bambi Labs P1 and X1. If you don’t have the $ for the original… this is a low cost option.
PLA doesnt like heat or UV
Q1 is a versatile tool, for the name. Q is pronounced as Ch, hence Chidi. To the point, no BS run through Doug.
Waiting for the day when metal printers are affordable lol
careful, I can attest from experience that 3D printing can cause you to want another printer eventually. This can lead to building your own either from kits or self sourced parts which can and will lead to an empty wallet. This is not counting the countless hours of life 'tuning' that you can't get back trying to get that perfect Benchy in under 2 minutes. Lets not talk about room needed.
Nothing beats repairing a brand new item as your getting to know all about it!! Why are WE always the ones to get janky stuff right out of the box. Maybe because we took things apart as kids. Took later years to reassemble tho! Great job and glad your back. Ever talk to your old neighbor?
It's no longer a research vessel, it is now a research AND development vessel.
So the bottom line is this thing is a lazer guided hot glue gun
That's it. : )
Lost me😢
Knock off prusa slicer
Last week i couldn't spell it, but you put a photo of my 12 foot sharpie skiff, "Some Cats Swing", a shot of my cubist teapot, and a shot of my ceramic sculpture of a Chesapeake Bay Cat-Ketch Sharpie, "Talking Bird". Now I'm famous. Thanks Doug!
th-cam.com/channels/TZ0jl9KKEFgoSWtz4JBUFQ.html
th-cam.com/channels/dXQczZOYhYsmRBLgwVsZEg.html
Also for the strongest parts use 3-6 walls, and top/ bottom
25-50% gyroid infill
And 10° or so above recommended print heat for the hotend.
Chamfer the edges in cad will help with overhangs too!
I am finding 3D-Honeycomb does similar, if not the same, and faster - thoughts?
@JMS7410- I agree with the same strength, but I guess infill is subjective to alot of different factors for speed. I use a higher speed with gyroid because there are no major directional change or corners so in my mind I can push it a bit faster, but I your 100% correct it should be very similar in strength for 90% of parts. There are some parts like tall cylinders where the 3d honeycomb would be even better than gyroid. Also I have found that doubled infill walls with gyroid are vastly stronger but that's only with prints that need huge amounts of strength, to be honest I have not tried double honeycomb. I will do some tests and let you know!