@@NoWr2Run that is where DIY guys come in. i just got an 98 with 217,000. doing the timing set this weekend and a couple other things. im expecting to have to do the heads. i did one in frame before in a day. wasn't fun but not hard and not 2500. things are significantly cheaper with out labor. point being, you better really love THAT car and be ready to spend time or money on it or jsut buy a newer low milage one
I somewhat recently bought a one owner ‘07 Outback, manual transmission, with only 69k miles for $6k. Due to age I had the timing belt replaced, Spark plugs were worn so those were changed, and then there was an oil leak which was the head gaskets, so those were done as well. Total was just over $2800 in parts and labor having the work done at a Subaru dealership. But now I have a nice vehicle that will last me a very long time. It has enough technology to make it very comfortable, but not any excess that could break/make the car more expensive to repair). It is my first time ever owning a Subaru and I absolutely love the car! With the price of new vehicles it can make a lot of sense to put a 2-5 thousand into an older car and make it good as new :)
You just put real value on your videos. With all the knowledge you've shared, I've saved thousands doing repairs myself. Keep up the good work!!! Much thanks!
Having just picked up a 2007 outback basic with 215k miles this is perfect timing. I got lucky with the previous owner keeping all their repair records, including head gasket work, new catalytic converts, rebuilt front suspension and more. Also went for a manual car, which took a while to find out here in California. Mostly I have wear parts like hoses and bushings to deal with at this point, as well as basic maintenance like spark plugs.
Front wheel drive Legacy wagon, or a front wheel drive wagon from Honda or Toyota too would be nice...oh wait those aren't available any longer in the US. Not many choices for those who don't want an SUV.
Stereo is an easy fix. The problem is there is no ground wire on the display panel, just 3 flex tabs that ground to the frame when pressed in. Easy test is to press between the 3 and 4 buttons and if it works then it’s the ground. One of the ground springs is right behind that. Just clean the corrosion off them and good to go.
Honestly it’s so nice to have a resource like you Mr. Subaru, someone who takes the mystery out of car ownership and shows us what to expect at varying stages of vehicle life and how to maintain and prevent avoidable headaches.
As an intermediate diy mechanic (everything but engines) working on my 2011. This is the best possible format to learn from in troubleshooting, which i find is the hardest part.
If it were mine, or belonged to a friend who came to me for advice... I'd definitely do the head gaskets and related engine work. As well as replace the ATF and the front LCA bushings. Probably ensure the ball joints, axles, and front sway bar links are in good shape. But leave the entire rear end alone unless the customer is complaining about suspension noises or clunks. Likewise I'd leave the struts alone unless a test drive showed they were blown or there was a customer complaint of bouncy/rough ride. As you noted, it's a 2007 Subaru with 200k+ miles. Someone who's spending $2500 on a car isn't looking for a nice ride, they're looking for cheap but reliable transportation.
my experience with 07 was not pleasant! it was not the car though, i discovered eventually it was the previous owner who messed it up where nothing was how it was supposed to be, but it still ran! it was an amazing car. Unfortunately, after I fixed it, I gave it to my son who turned around and sold it! for good money too! HE GOT A HONDA!!!!!!!!it felt like a stab in the heart! !!!! It will not even overheat!!!! what kind of car is that?!
@@mgb... it was a son/dad project car. we rebuilt it together. maybe thats why he wanted nothing to do with either of us!!? LMAOL better luck with your niece, make sure she has roadside assistance
I mean at the end of all this work plus a really good cleanup and a detail + paint correction they will be in less than 10k have a completely overhauled car in great shape and if they commit to the car and keep it for another 10 years/ 100.000 miles or so its worth it.
Being into a car like that for $8k does sting, but the dynamics of the new and used market (shortages, price jumps, etc.) have made some cars worth fixing now when they didn't used to be. I had to think about similar stuff when I replaced the engine on my 2009 Outback Limited earlier this year.
I would pay for an engine rebuild on an ej25 so long as the body is good. Mostly, provided that it is a manual transmission car but those engines kick way more ass than (more power) than their successors although I will give it to the newer engine that they are more fuel efficient if that's what you really have a priority on.
@@crazytexasgypsy Agree. My 2007 Legacy interior is cherry compared to what that person did. Geez... Just did my front struts. He didn't mention wheel bearings or valve cover gasket. Guaranteed those are shot if the previous owner neglected all that other stuff.
@@lirider3932 Yeah, my car's interior is in better shape overall. However, I do have the dreaded sticky dash. Body and interior condition helped to tip my decision on a new engine. (I'm owner #2.)
Comes up to a big bill if customer decides to do everything. Beyond head gasket work I feel like some of the issues could be prioritized or triaged by need/safety impact/budget. Were the struts actually leaking or busted, for example? Of course it probably doesn’t make financial sense to replace eevvverything. Depends on customers budget. You could fix the main safety/reliability issues and leave the rest alone and still have a dependable mode of transportation
I agree. Headgasket and trans seal I would put them in the DO RIGHT NOW category. Rear bushings and front bushings would be the DO NEXT category, then the struts and catalytic converter (O2 sensor possibility?) in the DO LATER section. You can mix and match the DO NEXT and DO LATER category based on feedback from your mechanic and if you live in a state with inspection.
The head gasket was probably replaced at a Subaru dealer, they will use the same kind of gasket instead of upgrading. THEY got a friend of mine like that and he had to have the job done again at 202000 mi.
It’s what makes a Subaru a Subaru. I love them just did this on my 98 2.2 220k miles on the factory head gasket. Machined heads cleaned the valves up with stem seals. Runs good as new.
What an oil mess! Thanks so much for the education on our cars...love this kind of video to educate myself. I come from the 60's and drove my '67 Mustang GTA as a daily driver for many years before passing on the car to my son. I did al kinds of work on the Mustang and many used cars after until I bought my first new car, 2018 OB 3.6 touring. I have to reeducate myself with these new engines and the CVT transmissions. We still own a 1990 Ford 350 4WD...good back up work truck that never quits!
Picked up a 2010 a few earlier this spring and although the mileage was much much lower, there are some things that you've mentioned here I should probably take a look at.
i spend $6500 canadian on a subaru outback from 08 with 129,000 miles (car was original american). brand new headgasket not installed by subaru which he said was important, i dont think it matters but whos to say. oil changes every 4000 miles, full services done by the old owner, huge hobbyist the guy was. frame hasnt a drop of oil on it. cleanest car i ever crawled under. still driving it now, probably wont be for much longer as i dont care for subaru transmissions. I have major respect for subaru after experiencing it for myself. they arent what people think they are, take care of it, itll take care of you.
I keep seeing mention of sticky dashes. I've owned 3x Legacy/Outbacks in this generation and none of them had this issue? My stored outdoors '05 Outback has 320k KM on it and it's fine. The arm rests are crinkling a little bit but no where near as bad as shown here. My parked under cover 220k km '06 LGT's arm rests and dash are almost perfect.
I’ve seen some of those engine codes when the engine ground straps corrode and fall off. I also would deviate from your strong OEM preference on some of the parts to bring the cost down.
I may have commented on this before regarding the P0420 code on my '10 Outback at 100k miles. Popped up from nowhere and I started a search on reasons for bad cat efficiency. I had been experiencing unusual oil usage recent to getting the code and began looking for a reason for both issues showing up. I found the PCV valve had failed wide open and was drawing oil mist continuously into the intake during vehicle operation. I pulled both the pre- and after-cat O2 sensors and found them coated with oil coking and burned oil residue. I replaced the PCV with an OEM valve, replaced both O2 sensors with Denso OEM units, ran Cataclean through the fuel system twice. I'm 4,000 miles on since replacing these items with no P0420 code (it was coming on between 60 miles and 140 miles of driving previously after reset of the code). An additional benefit was vastly improved driveability - better throttle tip-in, smoother acceleration from a clean pre-cat sensor giving better fuel trim signals and a bit better fuel mileage as well as zero excessive oil consumption. Just food for thought - my belief is that catalytic convertors usually fail for two main reasons: Mechanical damage from overheating/broken cell structure and from the surface of the catalyst element being coated with foreign materials such as tetraethyl lead, non sensor-safe sealants, excessive non/partially-combusted oil, etc. I was "rolling the dice" on this a bit but figured that I'd replace both O2 sensors anyway if I had to replace the cat and it appears that my bet was correct and saved myself some money. Also, many thanks to Mr. Subaru - I just replaced my clutch with an Excedy as you recommended and a new flywheel and it is GREAT!
In Australia, this repair would be close to $8,000. Everything for this car is super expensive, most notably the Cat Converter. Wouldn't be worth repairing over here. Everything just so bloody expensive !!
My '06 is at 220k ...I've got a check engine light and am un need of a new DS front axel... These videos are fantastic considering how difficult it is for me to find a knowledgeable mechanic who I can "trust."I refuse to get rid of my Outback .I recently cut ties with a local so-called subaru specialist due to mistrust issues,thousands in repairs over the last 5 years.The dealerships are out of the question...
Loved the video, have an 07 with 190k and have kept up on maintenance fairly well, my son drives it now and probably be tackling the head gasket soon(no leakage yet) but just did the brakes(flushed the fluid too) , the ATF drain and fill, have a replacement power steering pump on order, and runs like a champ!! Thanks for all the tips and look fors to be aware of!! Keep up the videos!! 👍🙏😄
@@robertwessel6409 you will need the ASTRO ball joint removal tool. The parts break down showed to different bushings. They have different housing designs. Took a few hours it wasn't to bad of a job. The ball joints I used were mevo tech about 50 apiece, the bushings were oem subaru a hundred a piece, the sway bar end links were moog about 15 apiece. The ball joint tool was about 40(worth every dollar)
That's a nice lookin car and 8 grand.. What you gonna by for 8 grand that doesn't need any work? This will be a solid, reliable and paid for car after the work! If you buy and 8000.00 car anywhere, you'll have issues and costs after the purchase and what will that be? The nice thing about these years of Subaru are that the owner can do A LOT of repairs themselves and save tons of money! Me personally, I would get the engine work and cat done by a professional, then I would work on the things I can do at home and job out the stuff I can't do as funds become available!
Really important what you said about replacing the timing belt tensioner, and not just the belt. Made that mistake years ago, replaced just the belt, pulley went out six months later. Mechanic claimed he didn’t know that you’re supposed to replace the water pump and tensioner pulley with the belt, despite all the chat rooms and Subaru saying that you should.
I replaced my outback timing belt at the dealer. Even they did not change the water pump and tensioner. I too thought they will change water pump during belt change.
That guy was an cheap, crappy mechanic. If you do your belt you should do all the timing components with it. There's a sprocket pully that will go out as well, both my tensioner and pully we're failing, and somehow my belt didn't rip or jump timing. I got very lucky because both options would have totaled my engine. It's an extra 100 bucks but doing the job right every time will protect you in the long run
That's just a given with every car. Because of age and tensioners will slack over time and water pumps running off timing can leak from age or the pulley fails which can be very bad it's common sense to replace these with a timing belt. Usually a kit will have at least the tensioner and idler pulley (however many there are), belt and water pump and seal if that runs off the timing. That person shouldn't be a mechanic .
@@Davo_1991 Thank God he is not a mechanic anymore, a brick hit him in the head, so he is unable to function normally, but in my view that was Karma punishing him for ripping off so many customers over the years
Excellent video and super competent review of the car. I wish you lived nearby! Ironically I have the same car as this only now with 240,000 miles and still on the original timing belt. Has some minor head gasket leakage but nothing major. Chassis rust (NH car) is the sad part!
Hey there! Great videos!! Quick question, I'm looking at a 2017 Forester 2.5i Premium manual transmission with 190k miles on it, how reliable do you think it'll be? (Asking price 10k USD)
Honestly what your customer would pay to have that car done right plus what they paid for it to begin with is only a little more than what some of this generation of outback are selling for on the used market here in the west with well over 100k miles and likely a lot of the same problems so even if it costs 8 grand total they are getting a car that will last a while for that investment. I see a lot of these at the timing belt/head gasket replacement mileage going for 6-8000 dollars out here and it's obvious why they are being sold.
Thanks for this and all the other highly informative videos. I am the original owner of a 2005 Outback 2.5i with 218,000 miles on original head gaskets. They have been leaking oil externally for years, now just enough to where the oil smell from hitting exhaust is getting pretty bad and I’m thinking of pulling trigger on replacement as I’d like to continue using car, especially as a winter beater. Another issue it has is a lack of heat coming from passenger side air outlets. I reverse flushed heater core with no improvement (driver side is plenty hot). I’m aware of the air door actuator problems on dual zone climate control equipped cars of this generation, but mine has single zone dials. Has anyone had this issue with the single zone equipped Outback/Legacy and can offer suggestions before I tear into the dash? Thanks.
@@lirider3932 pretty sure the recall ran out. Last I checked a new dash was somwhere in the $700s plus several hundred in labor if you can get one. I haven't had much luck getting parts lately. Or $40 for a dash cover.
@@davepeters4955 yeah maybe. I got one only because they wrecked mine with the Takata recall. Just threw it out there in case it's still valid. They recalled the bags again. Sucks because I really don't like looking at a gashed dash.
@@lirider3932 If you find out they still cover it, let me know - they owe me a dash! I found out about the recall and it expiring when I took my car in for an airbag replacement and was told I missed it. It was a "quiet" recall - if you knew about it and brought a car in with the sticky dash during the right time frame they'd replace it, but they didn't go looking for you like they did with the airbags.
@@davepeters4955 yeah, I don't know. The airbag they put in was "temporary" so they keep sending me letters. I'm not going through that again. They basically scarred my dash, scratched up my shift plate and side rails. The manager felt my pain and saw how I kept my car and said he'd get me the dash. Super bummer. I wouldn't count on the dash a second time. The manager took me in while they were doing another car and showed me the mess it makes taking apart the dash. I have some rattling too. I'm living with the airbag for now. Hope it doesn't come back to bite me.
Just finished reassembling the EJ25 in my MY07 OBXT. Waiting for a map to account for the larger injectors (other upgrades) and will be starting it soon! Super excited!
I think it's safe to say that any used Subaru that you buy off the streets needs $3,000 worth of repairs, which you need to factor in when buying it. Also, assume that you will have to junk it at 250,000 miles.
Hi thanks for your videos that helps diyers immensely. I was curious about where you were able to get a 700 dollar cat. I have the 420 on my 07 OB @208k
I would go with a JDM engine if it did not have all the other issues. Now, I will no longer be looking for a used Subi with more than 130, 000 miles. Thanks
Could you prioritize the repairs and keep the estimate under the value of the car? I figure the value of the car is less than 3K. so just do the ball joints & front pads and keep it filled up with generic oil and water? They ALL drip, it's OK. The Evap wire fix for the Ck Engine light is the kind of costs this car can support. Get some new tires when they go on sale. I know you want to restore it but spending $5.8k on a 15-year-old $3k car will result in a $3.4k car, unless you just love it because its' been in the family for 15 years.
We in Europe can by 2007 outback four around 3000 USD in good condition so my guess is scrapyard this one and get new one for 3K and save the headache:)
Any mm Hey Mr. Subaru, and thoughts on 2014 2.5i legacy sport with 91k miles? I’m buying in a few days. It will be my first Subaru but never had a cvt and boxer motor before so I’m nervous!
I got the 420 code sometimes it goes off by itself for a week. What is odd sometime mine goes beeping while driving then it goes off no clue why it just beeps occassionally? Any thoughts?
If it’s not knocking then the bottom end should still be fine. And if it wasn’t run hot, then the heads are usually straight. This is from my experience from working on Subarus.
So for 8k this will be a good to go modernish Subaru Outback that's been thoroughly gone through by a very reputable Subaru mechanic. My question is can 8k buy a rust free clean Subaru Outback that is in comparable mechanical condition? I'm sure there are possibly newer models with less miles for around that price but if they are in need or about to be in need of mechanical repair then what's the true cost going to be of that car. Is 8k on a 2007 200k mile Outback a sweet spot for having an Outback that should be good for 100k miles? I appreciate any feedback, thank you.
How are you doing? I have a 2005 Outback EJ25 that I want to go through before I put it into a 1969 VW bus. Where are you located? Who might you recommend in Northern California area?
I have a 2008 impreza 2.5i woth 293k miles. Jave a jdm engine in the mail. Never getting rid of this thing until the minnesota roads melt it away to the poont i can fred flinstone my way to work
Cool, thanks for an informative video curious, if we (I) could send a short similar video of my OB, same areas, how much $ to do a diagnosis? Obviously the video needs to be short, edited or series of stills, to min your time thanks
Depot brand headlights eh? I need to beautify the headlights of my lovely 07 Impreza here in Canada, they look just like OEM! I thought I could only get weird looking aftermarket headlights... (McGuiars Plastx to the rescue...)
Hello Mr subaru I always watch your videos you're probably the best subaru dude on here and I was wondering if you know what would cause the gas nozzle to click out everytime at the pump when trying to fill up, I have an evap code similar to the one in the video and my 08 outback has 222,000 miles
Lmao my 07 was badass i use to ragg the piss out that engine and send her thru god knows what 😂😭 always stayed consistent tho and ran great. I really do miss it
I've been selling Subarus since 2016, in the business since 2003. We're looking for an affordable first car for our 17-year-old and this is exactly why I'm shying away from Subaru.
$800 for a catalytic converter? Wow that's a lot cheaper than the last time I checked on one. Wound up with aftermarket that's worked well for a couple of years. :
@@wim0104 I did. CC was clogged, sensors were fine. The replacement ones I got I think were Magnaflow, but not sure right off the top of my head. Still working a couple of years later, and much cheaper than replacing the old Outback. No repeat codes so far.
Okay I feel like I need to ask this. Just put a deposit on a 2023 Outback - where should my confidence meter hit? I had a 2012 Outback, traded it in rather than purchase a $9k transmission. I have mostly owned Hondas but the CRV is uncomfortable and the Pilot seems to have it's own issues these days. Lots to love about the Outback, but I appreciate care-free driving more. Are the 2023's care-free driving for a good long while or is there a fairly good chance I'll be frustrated? Would love a professional opinion, here. Thanks
Greetings. I have a 2006 outback 3.0 and the throttle body connector broke and the cables were out of order and I can't find the correct order if someone could post an image. Thanks
My 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i is stumbling at initial acceleration. What do you think might be causing this? I would appreciate your input, I have run BG 44K, and BG Engine performance restorer through her, and she seemed to be running better for a while but now I have this hesitation issue. Thank you for your time, I really appreciate it!
i might be getting an 07 with 210k on it. it's free i just have to cough up for repairs. I'm going to be paying close attention just in case i get the title handed to me.
unless you plan to sell the car, you should replace everything, the cost at a shop is mainly for labor not the parts, The Gates set with the belt and all the pulleys and tensioner is $130, not a bad deal, unless you want to go OEM
I hope you read this question, I have my outback 2007 when I got 4000 rpm the car lost power like if you turn it off the engine, it takes fractions of seconds once goes less than 4000 rpm the car keeps moving, Please help with a hint
Wow, this is the kind of vehicle inspection that would be worth paying for.
Yeah, hopefully before you buy it....
@@TheJawtech NO SHIT, WOW $5,500 " WITH LABOR ". Scares me away from these high mileage cars.
@@NoWr2Run that is where DIY guys come in. i just got an 98 with 217,000. doing the timing set this weekend and a couple other things. im expecting to have to do the heads. i did one in frame before in a day. wasn't fun but not hard and not 2500. things are significantly cheaper with out labor. point being, you better really love THAT car and be ready to spend time or money on it or jsut buy a newer low milage one
@@NoWr2Runnew ones are 28,000 and up to 42,000 expensive these days
I somewhat recently bought a one owner ‘07 Outback, manual transmission, with only 69k miles for $6k. Due to age I had the timing belt replaced,
Spark plugs were worn so those were changed, and then there was an oil leak which was the head gaskets,
so those were done as well. Total was just over $2800 in parts and labor having the work done at a Subaru dealership.
But now I have a nice vehicle that will last me a very long time. It has enough technology to make it very comfortable, but not any excess that could break/make the car more expensive to repair). It is my first time ever owning a Subaru and I absolutely love the car! With the price of new vehicles it can make a lot of sense to put a 2-5 thousand into an older car and make it good as new :)
And no car payments.👍
And cheaper insurance!
Very sensible.
That's a heck of a deal! I just picked up an 07' with 124,000 for $7000..
Aren't they great on my third engine and I couldn't be happier so busy fixing these things I don't have time to contemplate suicide anymore.
You just put real value on your videos. With all the knowledge you've shared, I've saved thousands doing repairs myself. Keep up the good work!!! Much thanks!
agreed
This is a perfect showcase for a pre purchase inspection
Having just picked up a 2007 outback basic with 215k miles this is perfect timing.
I got lucky with the previous owner keeping all their repair records, including head gasket work, new catalytic converts, rebuilt front suspension and more. Also went for a manual car, which took a while to find out here in California. Mostly I have wear parts like hoses and bushings to deal with at this point, as well as basic maintenance like spark plugs.
I didn't know you had Subarus in California, bless your heart! Greetings from the Great White North!
Front wheel drive Legacy wagon, or a front wheel drive wagon from Honda or Toyota too would be nice...oh wait those aren't available any longer in the US. Not many choices for those who don't want an SUV.
Stereo is an easy fix. The problem is there is no ground wire on the display panel, just 3 flex tabs that ground to the frame when pressed in. Easy test is to press between the 3 and 4 buttons and if it works then it’s the ground. One of the ground springs is right behind that.
Just clean the corrosion off them and good to go.
Honestly it’s so nice to have a resource like you Mr. Subaru, someone who takes the mystery out of car ownership and shows us what to expect at varying stages of vehicle life and how to maintain and prevent avoidable headaches.
As an intermediate diy mechanic (everything but engines) working on my 2011. This is the best possible format to learn from in troubleshooting, which i find is the hardest part.
If it were mine, or belonged to a friend who came to me for advice...
I'd definitely do the head gaskets and related engine work. As well as replace the ATF and the front LCA bushings. Probably ensure the ball joints, axles, and front sway bar links are in good shape. But leave the entire rear end alone unless the customer is complaining about suspension noises or clunks. Likewise I'd leave the struts alone unless a test drive showed they were blown or there was a customer complaint of bouncy/rough ride. As you noted, it's a 2007 Subaru with 200k+ miles. Someone who's spending $2500 on a car isn't looking for a nice ride, they're looking for cheap but reliable transportation.
perfect call !
valid
my experience with 07 was not pleasant! it was not the car though, i discovered eventually it was the previous owner who messed it up where nothing was how it was supposed to be, but it still ran! it was an amazing car. Unfortunately, after I fixed it, I gave it to my son who turned around and sold it! for good money too! HE GOT A HONDA!!!!!!!!it felt like a stab in the heart! !!!! It will not even overheat!!!! what kind of car is that?!
should have sold your unappreciative and ungrateful son instead. or smacked lire sense in _it_ when he was younger. 😏
Noo thats heart breaking!! I'm giving my 08 to my niece as her first car/learning
The Honda won't overheat? What?
Even my 2009 is a piece of work... my father spent almost five grand on this thing so far
@@mgb... it was a son/dad project car. we rebuilt it together. maybe thats why he wanted nothing to do with either of us!!? LMAOL better luck with your niece, make sure she has roadside assistance
I mean at the end of all this work plus a really good cleanup and a detail + paint correction they will be in less than 10k have a completely overhauled car in great shape and if they commit to the car and keep it for another 10 years/ 100.000 miles or so its worth it.
Yep fosho
Damn near what I did with my 09 legacy
I love that car
Being into a car like that for $8k does sting, but the dynamics of the new and used market (shortages, price jumps, etc.) have made some cars worth fixing now when they didn't used to be. I had to think about similar stuff when I replaced the engine on my 2009 Outback Limited earlier this year.
I would pay for an engine rebuild on an ej25 so long as the body is good. Mostly, provided that it is a manual transmission car but those engines kick way more ass than (more power) than their successors although I will give it to the newer engine that they are more fuel efficient if that's what you really have a priority on.
The problem for me would be even after all that, the interior is still pretty junky.
@@crazytexasgypsy Agree. My 2007 Legacy interior is cherry compared to what that person did. Geez... Just did my front struts. He didn't mention wheel bearings or valve cover gasket. Guaranteed those are shot if the previous owner neglected all that other stuff.
@@lirider3932 Yeah, my car's interior is in better shape overall. However, I do have the dreaded sticky dash. Body and interior condition helped to tip my decision on a new engine. (I'm owner #2.)
@@OnkelPHMagee You should get a dash mat, I got a super nice one from Dashcare. Awesome black suede and it was like ~$50
Thanks very much. I picked up a 03 Baja last month and you've given me a lot to look at and fret over. The pricing is quite helpful as well.
Comes up to a big bill if customer decides to do everything. Beyond head gasket work I feel like some of the issues could be prioritized or triaged by need/safety impact/budget. Were the struts actually leaking or busted, for example? Of course it probably doesn’t make financial sense to replace eevvverything. Depends on customers budget. You could fix the main safety/reliability issues and leave the rest alone and still have a dependable mode of transportation
I agree. Headgasket and trans seal I would put them in the DO RIGHT NOW category. Rear bushings and front bushings would be the DO NEXT category, then the struts and catalytic converter (O2 sensor possibility?) in the DO LATER section. You can mix and match the DO NEXT and DO LATER category based on feedback from your mechanic and if you live in a state with inspection.
Now I just hope that the customer will agree with your breakdown, as this would be perfect source of information for my Outback 👍 well apart of AT.
The head gasket was probably replaced at a Subaru dealer, they will use the same kind of gasket instead of upgrading. THEY got a friend of mine like that and he had to have the job done again at 202000 mi.
Sad.
It’s what makes a Subaru a Subaru. I love them just did this on my 98 2.2 220k miles on the factory head gasket. Machined heads cleaned the valves up with stem seals. Runs good as new.
What an oil mess! Thanks so much for the education on our cars...love this kind of video to educate myself. I come from the 60's and drove my '67 Mustang GTA as a daily driver for many years before passing on the car to my son. I did al kinds of work on the Mustang and many used cars after until I bought my first new car, 2018 OB 3.6 touring. I have to reeducate myself with these new engines and the CVT transmissions. We still own a 1990 Ford 350 4WD...good back up work truck that never quits!
Picked up a 2010 a few earlier this spring and although the mileage was much much lower, there are some things that you've mentioned here I should probably take a look at.
i spend $6500 canadian on a subaru outback from 08 with 129,000 miles (car was original american). brand new headgasket not installed by subaru which he said was important, i dont think it matters but whos to say. oil changes every 4000 miles, full services done by the old owner, huge hobbyist the guy was. frame hasnt a drop of oil on it. cleanest car i ever crawled under. still driving it now, probably wont be for much longer as i dont care for subaru transmissions. I have major respect for subaru after experiencing it for myself. they arent what people think they are, take care of it, itll take care of you.
I keep seeing mention of sticky dashes. I've owned 3x Legacy/Outbacks in this generation and none of them had this issue? My stored outdoors '05 Outback has 320k KM on it and it's fine. The arm rests are crinkling a little bit but no where near as bad as shown here. My parked under cover 220k km '06 LGT's arm rests and dash are almost perfect.
These newer Outback's look way better and they are slightly more fuel-efficient than the older ones.
Thank you for another great video. Cost breakdown was very useful. Your explanations are superb. Thanks.
This is why people buy new cars, cut your losses and get rid of the headache.
You do realize that new Outback is 5 times more expensive?
@@andrewcocosand also I love my 06 outback I hate the newer looking ones
I’ve seen some of those engine codes when the engine ground straps corrode and fall off. I also would deviate from your strong OEM preference on some of the parts to bring the cost down.
I may have commented on this before regarding the P0420 code on my '10 Outback at 100k miles. Popped up from nowhere and I started a search on reasons for bad cat efficiency. I had been experiencing unusual oil usage recent to getting the code and began looking for a reason for both issues showing up. I found the PCV valve had failed wide open and was drawing oil mist continuously into the intake during vehicle operation. I pulled both the pre- and after-cat O2 sensors and found them coated with oil coking and burned oil residue. I replaced the PCV with an OEM valve, replaced both O2 sensors with Denso OEM units, ran Cataclean through the fuel system twice. I'm 4,000 miles on since replacing these items with no P0420 code (it was coming on between 60 miles and 140 miles of driving previously after reset of the code). An additional benefit was vastly improved driveability - better throttle tip-in, smoother acceleration from a clean pre-cat sensor giving better fuel trim signals and a bit better fuel mileage as well as zero excessive oil consumption. Just food for thought - my belief is that catalytic convertors usually fail for two main reasons: Mechanical damage from overheating/broken cell structure and from the surface of the catalyst element being coated with foreign materials such as tetraethyl lead, non sensor-safe sealants, excessive non/partially-combusted oil, etc. I was "rolling the dice" on this a bit but figured that I'd replace both O2 sensors anyway if I had to replace the cat and it appears that my bet was correct and saved myself some money. Also, many thanks to Mr. Subaru - I just replaced my clutch with an Excedy as you recommended and a new flywheel and it is GREAT!
Mine aslo has the p04020 code too.. I got the 2 Denso OEM O2 from Amazon. I didnt use it yet.. Let me do the PVC 1st and see. thx
@@KLNYC I heard the Denso ones from Amazon are fakes and fail. Might wanna return those.
Do you guys have an update? How did your fixes go? I got the same code on an outback 08
In Australia, this repair would be close to $8,000. Everything for this car is super expensive, most notably the Cat Converter. Wouldn't be worth repairing over here. Everything just so bloody expensive !!
My '06 is at 220k ...I've got a check engine light and am un need of a new DS front axel... These videos are fantastic considering how difficult it is for me to find a knowledgeable mechanic who I can "trust."I refuse to get rid of my Outback .I recently cut ties with a local so-called subaru specialist due to mistrust issues,thousands in repairs over the last 5 years.The dealerships are out of the question...
I have a 2005 Subaru Forrester she has 306243
Loved the video, have an 07 with 190k and have kept up on maintenance fairly well, my son drives it now and probably be tackling the head gasket soon(no leakage yet) but just did the brakes(flushed the fluid too) , the ATF drain and fill, have a replacement power steering pump on order, and runs like a champ!! Thanks for all the tips and look fors to be aware of!! Keep up the videos!! 👍🙏😄
Great video, really liked the cost breakdown at the end. Thx
I just did ball joints and lower control arm rear bushings today on my 02 outback.
How did that work out for you cost and time? I have an 01 OB that has similar issues.
@@robertwessel6409 you will need the ASTRO ball joint removal tool. The parts break down showed to different bushings. They have different housing designs. Took a few hours it wasn't to bad of a job. The ball joints I used were mevo tech about 50 apiece, the bushings were oem subaru a hundred a piece, the sway bar end links were moog about 15 apiece. The ball joint tool was about 40(worth every dollar)
@@jerrymoore7669 thanks
Great videos! You make we want to get another Outback!
Damn my 17 outback already has 147k miles! I'm about to have to do CV Axles and wheel hubs on the front.
That's a nice lookin car and 8 grand.. What you gonna by for 8 grand that doesn't need any work?
This will be a solid, reliable and paid for car after the work!
If you buy and 8000.00 car anywhere, you'll have issues and costs after the purchase and what will that be?
The nice thing about these years of Subaru are that the owner can do A LOT of repairs themselves and save tons of money!
Me personally, I would get the engine work and cat done by a professional, then I would work on the things I can do at home and job out the stuff I can't do as funds become available!
i almost bought one recently, cheers for this vid man, much appreciated
Thank you. I
that's s a lot of work and parts for $5,500.
Really important what you said about replacing the timing belt tensioner, and not just the belt. Made that mistake years ago, replaced just the belt, pulley went out six months later. Mechanic claimed he didn’t know that you’re supposed to replace the water pump and tensioner pulley with the belt, despite all the chat rooms and Subaru saying that you should.
I replaced my outback timing belt at the dealer. Even they did not change the water pump and tensioner. I too thought they will change water pump during belt change.
That guy was an cheap, crappy mechanic. If you do your belt you should do all the timing components with it. There's a sprocket pully that will go out as well, both my tensioner and pully we're failing, and somehow my belt didn't rip or jump timing. I got very lucky because both options would have totaled my engine. It's an extra 100 bucks but doing the job right every time will protect you in the long run
That's just a given with every car. Because of age and tensioners will slack over time and water pumps running off timing can leak from age or the pulley fails which can be very bad it's common sense to replace these with a timing belt. Usually a kit will have at least the tensioner and idler pulley (however many there are), belt and water pump and seal if that runs off the timing.
That person shouldn't be a mechanic .
@@Davo_1991 Thank God he is not a mechanic anymore, a brick hit him in the head, so he is unable to function normally, but in my view that was Karma punishing him for ripping off so many customers over the years
Subaru doesn't require the tensioner to be replaced. I made that same mistake. Always replace your tensioner!!
Excellent video and super competent review of the car. I wish you lived nearby! Ironically I have the same car as this only now with 240,000 miles and still on the original timing belt. Has some minor head gasket leakage but nothing major. Chassis rust (NH car) is the sad part!
Hey there! Great videos!! Quick question, I'm looking at a 2017 Forester 2.5i Premium manual transmission with 190k miles on it, how reliable do you think it'll be? (Asking price 10k USD)
I wish I live near South Carolina to have my 2011 Tribeca inspected by Mr. Subaru!
Honestly what your customer would pay to have that car done right plus what they paid for it to begin with is only a little more than what some of this generation of outback are selling for on the used market here in the west with well over 100k miles and likely a lot of the same problems so even if it costs 8 grand total they are getting a car that will last a while for that investment. I see a lot of these at the timing belt/head gasket replacement mileage going for 6-8000 dollars out here and it's obvious why they are being sold.
I bought a carpet cover for the dash for mine that i just bought,was in mint condition apart from that and it really tidied up the inside.
Thanks for this and all the other highly informative videos. I am the original owner of a 2005 Outback 2.5i with 218,000 miles on original head gaskets. They have been leaking oil externally for years, now just enough to where the oil smell from hitting exhaust is getting pretty bad and I’m thinking of pulling trigger on replacement as I’d like to continue using car, especially as a winter beater. Another issue it has is a lack of heat coming from passenger side air outlets. I reverse flushed heater core with no improvement (driver side is plenty hot). I’m aware of the air door actuator problems on dual zone climate control equipped cars of this generation, but mine has single zone dials. Has anyone had this issue with the single zone equipped Outback/Legacy and can offer suggestions before I tear into the dash? Thanks.
Where are you located I have a 03 wrx that needs work. Like 3 grand of work
If I was going to fix that car, I would replace the sticky dash pad as well! (and the center console pad)
The dash has a recall for anyone interested.
@@lirider3932 pretty sure the recall ran out. Last I checked a new dash was somwhere in the $700s plus several hundred in labor if you can get one. I haven't had much luck getting parts lately. Or $40 for a dash cover.
@@davepeters4955 yeah maybe. I got one only because they wrecked mine with the Takata recall. Just threw it out there in case it's still valid. They recalled the bags again. Sucks because I really don't like looking at a gashed dash.
@@lirider3932 If you find out they still cover it, let me know - they owe me a dash! I found out about the recall and it expiring when I took my car in for an airbag replacement and was told I missed it. It was a "quiet" recall - if you knew about it and brought a car in with the sticky dash during the right time frame they'd replace it, but they didn't go looking for you like they did with the airbags.
@@davepeters4955 yeah, I don't know. The airbag they put in was "temporary" so they keep sending me letters. I'm not going through that again. They basically scarred my dash, scratched up my shift plate and side rails. The manager felt my pain and saw how I kept my car and said he'd get me the dash. Super bummer. I wouldn't count on the dash a second time. The manager took me in while they were doing another car and showed me the mess it makes taking apart the dash. I have some rattling too. I'm living with the airbag for now. Hope it doesn't come back to bite me.
He said he's not a rocket scientist but he is at what he does!
Just fix the gaskets and reseal the transmission harness it’s gonna run for a few years before the rest of issues become a pain in the butt.
There’s one I’m scouting right now 261k miles for 800 1 previous owner very minimal issues.
I hope you bought it
@@TheMEXICANBEEF I ending finding a 2007 Nissan versa non cvt with 100k for 1000
Just finished reassembling the EJ25 in my MY07 OBXT. Waiting for a map to account for the larger injectors (other upgrades) and will be starting it soon! Super excited!
Update
Thanks for the video slowly getting mine back together waiting on tie rod ends.
I think it's safe to say that any used Subaru that you buy off the streets needs $3,000 worth of repairs, which you need to factor in when buying it. Also, assume that you will have to junk it at 250,000 miles.
Hi thanks for your videos that helps diyers immensely. I was curious about where you were able to get a 700 dollar cat. I have the 420 on my 07 OB @208k
I would go with a JDM engine if it did not have all the other issues. Now, I will no longer be looking for a used Subi with more than 130, 000 miles. Thanks
Could you prioritize the repairs and keep the estimate under the value of the car?
I figure the value of the car is less than 3K. so just do the ball joints & front pads and keep it filled up with generic oil and water? They ALL drip, it's OK.
The Evap wire fix for the Ck Engine light is the kind of costs this car can support. Get some new tires when they go on sale.
I know you want to restore it but spending $5.8k on a 15-year-old $3k car will result in a $3.4k car, unless you just love it because its' been in the family for 15 years.
We in Europe can by 2007 outback four around 3000 USD in good condition so my guess is scrapyard this one and get new one for 3K and save the headache:)
Any mm
Hey Mr. Subaru, and thoughts on 2014 2.5i legacy sport with 91k miles? I’m buying in a few days. It will be my first Subaru but never had a cvt and boxer motor before so I’m nervous!
I got the 420 code sometimes it goes off by itself for a week. What is odd sometime mine goes beeping while driving then it goes off no clue why it just beeps occassionally? Any thoughts?
Hi from Spain!
Still a big risk that the engine's been run low on oil and the heads are warped or cracked. This might get into head or even short block replacement.
If it’s not knocking then the bottom end should still be fine. And if it wasn’t run hot, then the heads are usually straight. This is from my experience from working on Subarus.
So for 8k this will be a good to go modernish Subaru Outback that's been thoroughly gone through by a very reputable Subaru mechanic. My question is can 8k buy a rust free clean Subaru Outback that is in comparable mechanical condition? I'm sure there are possibly newer models with less miles for around that price but if they are in need or about to be in need of mechanical repair then what's the true cost going to be of that car.
Is 8k on a 2007 200k mile Outback a sweet spot for having an Outback that should be good for 100k miles? I appreciate any feedback, thank you.
My advice would be to buy one with impeccable maintenance records every time.
How are you doing? I have a 2005 Outback EJ25 that I want to go through before I put it into a 1969 VW bus. Where are you located? Who might you recommend in Northern California area?
I have a 2008 impreza 2.5i woth 293k miles. Jave a jdm engine in the mail. Never getting rid of this thing until the minnesota roads melt it away to the poont i can fred flinstone my way to work
Cool, thanks for an informative video
curious, if we (I) could send a short similar video of my OB, same areas, how much $ to do a diagnosis? Obviously the video needs to be short, edited or series of stills, to min your time
thanks
Depot brand headlights eh? I need to beautify the headlights of my lovely 07 Impreza here in Canada, they look just like OEM! I thought I could only get weird looking aftermarket headlights... (McGuiars Plastx to the rescue...)
Hello Mr subaru I always watch your videos you're probably the best subaru dude on here and I was wondering if you know what would cause the gas nozzle to click out everytime at the pump when trying to fill up, I have an evap code similar to the one in the video and my 08 outback has 222,000 miles
EVAP issue for sure. Likely a blocked or stuck vent or purge solenoid.
Lmao my 07 was badass i use to ragg the piss out that engine and send her thru god knows what 😂😭 always stayed consistent tho and ran great. I really do miss it
As a long-time mechanic I've found Autolite plugs to be quite reliable. So, what is the issue with running them in a Subie 2.5?
Mine is same year with 118k.. P0420 code on so far.. no oil leak yet.
Well I said $5,000.00 so I was off a little. Thanks for the information it helps me. 👍
Do you have a vid on the Fan knob not turning on the fan/ac. There used to be some tension on the knob, but not anymore. 2001 Outback
Don't forget to add new tires also Robert @ 600 bucks or so!
I would say $8k for a car that will go another 100k+ miles after all those repairs would be worth it if the rest of the car was in better condition.
On a 2011 3.6R, what should a front LCA replacement (both sides) cost? Bushings on mine are shot.
I've been selling Subarus since 2016, in the business since 2003. We're looking for an affordable first car for our 17-year-old and this is exactly why I'm shying away from Subaru.
At that point I would drive it until it dies. Can’t justify unless you are doing all the work yourself
Awesome video as always and very informative
$800 for a catalytic converter? Wow that's a lot cheaper than the last time I checked on one. Wound up with aftermarket that's worked well for a couple of years. :
I'd try replacing O2 and AF mixture sensors first.
@@wim0104 I did. CC was clogged, sensors were fine. The replacement ones I got I think were Magnaflow, but not sure right off the top of my head. Still working a couple of years later, and much cheaper than replacing the old Outback. No repeat codes so far.
Thank god Indiana doesn’t do emissions shit I’d rather cat delete it then spend 800 bucks on new cats
Okay I feel like I need to ask this. Just put a deposit on a 2023 Outback - where should my confidence meter hit? I had a 2012 Outback, traded it in rather than purchase a $9k transmission. I have mostly owned Hondas but the CRV is uncomfortable and the Pilot seems to have it's own issues these days. Lots to love about the Outback, but I appreciate care-free driving more. Are the 2023's care-free driving for a good long while or is there a fairly good chance I'll be frustrated? Would love a professional opinion, here. Thanks
Damn I thought my 2002 Liberty RX was in bad condition when I bought it 😂 mine is a dream compared to this
Dude knows his job.
Ugh I can't wait to diagnose my Dad's 2005 Forester... Jeez
thanks for this type of video.
Greetings. I have a 2006 outback 3.0 and the throttle body connector broke and the cables were out of order and I can't find the correct order if someone could post an image. Thanks
Email me a picture of it at MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
My 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i is stumbling at initial acceleration. What do you think might be causing this? I would appreciate your input, I have run BG 44K, and BG Engine performance restorer through her, and she seemed to be running better for a while but now I have this hesitation issue. Thank you for your time, I really appreciate it!
Seems to be too many problems for age and mileage of car. Is owner really in Subaru love?
I enjoy your channel. How do I have you inspect my 18 Impreza? Where in the south are you? Thanks
i might be getting an 07 with 210k on it. it's free i just have to cough up for repairs. I'm going to be paying close attention just in case i get the title handed to me.
If the customer does it and gets another 100k+ miles it's probably worth it
If the bearings are fine, the car could get another 200k miles or more
If it burns oil that it what killed the Cat. They become fouled and poisoned by an engine burning oil.
this week i bought a Subi 07 2.5 automatic
mr subaru is it normal for a valve body to fail early after replacement like 1k miles later or one month?
Nice job I wish I lived close to you ,u no your stuff
When you do a timing belt service , do you replace the expensive tensioner pulley?
Edit, you answered my question!
Thanks!
unless you plan to sell the car, you should replace everything, the cost at a shop is mainly for labor not the parts, The Gates set with the belt and all the pulleys and tensioner is $130, not a bad deal, unless you want to go OEM
I hope you read this question, I have my outback 2007 when I got 4000 rpm the car lost power like if you turn it off the engine, it takes fractions of seconds once goes less than 4000 rpm the car keeps moving, Please help with a hint
5:17 that lid looks like a certain male... sack... (trying to keep it semi-clean!)😂😂
Put a Rebuilt or Low milage engine in it.
"I'm no rocket surgeon"
205K and still runs great