Totally jealous watching how easy that hub bearing came out. Those of us in the rust belt find a whole new level of frustration with that particular job on a Subaru of that year range
Yeah, that came off easy. Same with the abs sensor. Astro last chance tool FTW in the rust belt. And I don't dare to touch to abs sensor. Try to leave them in place without sheering them off. Like the kids game of operation.
First time I did a Subaru wheel bearing in NY took me and my buddy a whole afternoon to pop the old one off only to be greeted with the one he got on Amazon being for the automatic transmission.
Even in the oversaturated market of TH-cam car mechanic videos, this is a cut above. You're pleasant to listen to, easy to understand, and your camera work on the repair and diagnosis processes is stellar. We bought a new 2023 Outback 2.5L and plan to keep it a long time!
Yeah, they seem to be a pretty modular brand at this point. At least in the U.S., isn't their whole lineup longitudinal 4-cylinder boxers, in 2.0L, turbo 2.4L, and 2.5L varieties?
@Chris Coleman they used to use sand for the roads here until about 20 years ago when they switched to pure salt or worse, salt brine. Our rivers, lakes, streams and well water is being polluted by the salt applications here. I read in Ohio and places they use coal ash cinders to treat icy roads. The coal ash has heavy metals and even potentially radioactive materials in it being spread all over communities
@Alex Nelson the only thing we can do up here in Maine is constant applications of fluid film and similar products, inside and out!!! Things still develop rust , but compared to same year and model vehicles which are not treated, its insane. We have a 1 owner 2010 Forester with 220k miles on it, almost unheard of these days!
Thanks, Robert! I always find new things to check on my old Outback whenever you post these inspections. Need to look at those rear differential bushings on mine.
I'm done with dealerships as well! I took my 13' WRX in for some clunk noise going over bumps and they tried to tell me that I needed all four struts and springs replaced. I got under the car myself and found that the stabilizer bar endlink was busted and loose. Dealership recommended 3k in parts and labor, I fixed it myself for $50!
Great video! These Outbacks are common for the front sub-frame to rot if you live in the rust belt. I've seen a couple or so on my customer vehicles here in Canada with holes in the sub-frame on those models.
very impressed with your clear descriptions and easy to follow info videos. Enjoying my own 2016 Outback Premium using your help to navigate troubles before they bite . Dealers are thin on the ground over here near Cognac in France, so its my hands and your knowledge from now on.
Friend had a 2010 580 with the torque converter issue. They had a tsb for it he had to find to show them. Fixed the issues. His would stall completely stopping.
Thanks for the video Robert, my Subaru outback has 287k just replaced the front hub as I had a Abs code. Take care of yourself and family and Girlfriend and be Blessed ❤️❤️.
I spent a lot of money at my local dealership and they never figured out the problem. Change the plugs, did the carbon cleaning inside the cylinders, but it still had irrational low speed idled at intersections. It’s the EGR valve. Pull that sucker out you’ll find carbon build up that stops it from closing at low idle. Dealerships love to charge for troubleshooting, they never mentioned the EGR valve carbon buildup issues. Super simple fix.
Been riding 1.5 years with check engine light on (2013 impreza 61k miles). Bluedriver says P0171 (lean). 3 times at the dealer, all they did was clear the code for it to come on 20 miles later. Watched you remove & clean throttle body. Decided to do the same. In the process, discovered a loose seam in the air intake. Electrical tape. Then the idle relearn process. Fixed it for free. Thank you!
My idle also was fluttering un my fb20, Y also apply 2 more things. A ground from the throttle body to the chassis ground under the pitch stop, and change the fuel filter. Now runs like new
I hope to keep my ej255 in my wrx going for 200k miles. It runs perfect and burns no oil. Sounds great and currently has 93k on it. Been taking good care of it thanks to this channel. It is pro tuned on stock boost pressure and a tiny bit above stock power. About 20 hp over. It’s been such a great car. I love my ej25
I wish I could bring my 17' 3.6R to ya. Get a little noise out of the CVT and don't trust the dealership. If that came out of the Lafayette plant, I built that exhaust. Well, was supervisor of department that built the exhaust. I really hate the rear break setup on these models with the caliper/pad brake and drum/shoe parking brake. Really sucks when doing wheel hubs. Had to order both dust cover assemblies here in Indiana.
I’ve “serviced” the temperature blend actuators and air mode actuators on three different Hondas by opening up the actuators, cleaning up the resistance strips and wipers and applying a fresh coat of dielectric grease.
Noise at the power steering could be the o-ring at the elbow of that suction line. Been the bane of my existence on every Subaru I’ve owned since 2002. A lot of the Impreza line including the STI have a plastic elbow that eventually warps or doesn’t provide enough clamping force to properly seal that o-ring and allows air into the system.
Mr.Subaru, I found your channel yesterday while doing research and really like what you are posting. I was wondering if you have a way that people like myself could request information and or videos that you could either answer or make videos of ? Kinda like a forum where we can ask questions, but only you could answer. I myself don't need 100 different opinions. I don't know your background but you seem very qualified and do a great job with explaining and teaching. I myself would be willing to support your channel especially if it was more personalized for what i and/or your audience is looking for. Thanks for listening and have a great day.
In my opinion Subaru is the Best engineered auto ever made, dyi friendly, engine comes out from the top so you do not need a 10000 pound lift to take it out like most modern Toyotas, my 2001 out back purs like a newborn kitten at 320,000.00 miles, I cannot wait to rebuild the auto transmission, what a learning experience that will be, I love Subaru
Robert, My squeaking turned out to be the sunglass holder in the headliner by where the switches are for the sunroof in my 2013 Outback. I don't know if they have that in theirs. Thank you for this helpful video. I had to replace two rear hub assemblies at 95k but then again I'm in the rust belt of Iowa.
The front hubs for my 2011 Forester were considerably cheaper from Amayama - even with shipping... of course, there is a bit of a wait. If you're not in a hurry, the price is worth the wait. If you get a deal from the dealer, it doesn't matter. Unfortunately, I ordered Moog when I changed the rear hubs - they are now made in PRC - that was a bummer.
You just inspected my everyday car, I bought it used in 2015 with over 40k and today it has around 105000k. No major issues, just basic maintenance, the only thing it has is that after 5 miles of driving the brake light starts to blink and the stability control light goes steady on, I plugged a scan tool and nothing came out, I believe it's just a sensor. I've been driving the car like that for over two years
Nice work, looking at the coolant crossover reminds me I forgot to change O rings when I did a coolant change last fall, good excuse to check my TG valves while I'm at it, my TB was pretty crusty and since the TGV's are upstream of the injectors they don't get a fuel spray other than a tiny bit from rebound when the intake valves close at high rpms
Yeah I got the same twitching coming from my climate control mixture door, what’s funny is if I put the airflow either down to the foot well or to the top of the dash it goes away so it must be just the Little contact switch for the center vents, but from what I understand it’s sort of a pain to get to you can finagle your way up in there by removing the TCM and then you can get up through there apparently.
The head gasket issue is still plaguing the FB’s. 196k miles on my ‘14 outback and mine went bad, it was pushing oil into the coolant. And I know I’m not the only one, a few others on the outback forums had theirs go out too. It better than the EJ’s, but to say it’s in the past is a bit far stretched, it’s still an issue. But I do like the FB better, aside from dealing with the rocker/lifters when redoing the heads for the gasket, what a pain!
Wow, difficult to believe the dealership apparently didn't check the throttle body. My interest in DIY vehicle repair/maintenance is less than a year old and I would have done that just from having watched a few of your videos. It's such a minimal effort thing to verify too vs. replacing spark plugs. Makes me wonder if they did check which was why the hose was misaligned and maybe even the clip was missing but decided they could make more money to change the spark plugs.
Definitely. My dealership quoted me $500 to change 4 spark plugs and I did it in less than two hours for the cost of the plugs. I stopped taking my Outback to the dealer. Too big of assholes up there for me.
@@OhhState Yeah, it's $500 for spark plug replacement at my nearest Subaru dealership too based on what I've seen from the difference between their 30K and 60K service package. I have a ways to go until 60K but I plan to do it myself.
Thank you for posting this excellent video. I watched the throttle body work you did with great interest. I had a similar issue with my 2019 Forester. The dealer did an "induction service" and I think that entails cleaning the throttle body. The dealer also did an ECM (engine control module?) update to a new software version. I was wondering if you do ECM updates as well? Of course I am not a qualified mechanic and never had any training as one. I'm just a kiddie here. 🙂
Awesome inspection.... good to know since I have a 2014 Outback with 126K miles... I really hope you do a video on the HVAC air blender actuator replacement since mine is in the process of failing,,,,,
What is the dial located on the side of a 4 EAT transmission on my 2001 Subaru Forester…??? When I first start up my Subie, and changed into reverse to back out I get a hard clunk that I feel under my drivers floor area…When it’s warm up, I don’t get that noise and recently I had a loud squeal / shutter when turning off the vehicle..Through this video, I’m think8ng a torque converter problem…
Rattle which I thought was rocks stuck behind the heat shield (because there were LOTS) was actually mid exhaust pipe which had a steel bracket tack welded onto it, which broke at the weld and caused a horrible noise when idling.
And love how easy you make pulling that bearing assembly out. When I did mine, it took about 4 hours of pounding and the thing was basically square when it finally came loose. for the second one, I soaked it with penetrating oil overnight and it was a bit easier, but not much. Salt is not our friend. thankfully I was able to get some in where the speed sensor usually resides as well.
Not all the TCVs fail just a batch up until a certain production date for the part, and as for the replacement you need to remove the intake manifold to even get to the valve
@@MS3BOI This is why I put a certain time frame in my original comment. I just don’t want to be stranded on the side of the road somewhere. I do fully understand that this repair may be too complex for some individuals to tackle with complete removal of the intake manifold being required.
@@MS3BOI They didn’t update the part in production cars until june 7, 2021. My 19 forester sport just hit 109K miles and I want to update it ASAP so I am not stranded on the side of the road when it fails. I should have put “19 to 21 Subarus” in my original post.
The engine stumbling was the throttle body on my car which is identical. Just had to clean it up too much buildup on the flap so it has less airflow than if it were clean
changing the camshaft position sensor did lots of work to fix the hesitation on my 4eat forester with 230k. wonder if the cps should be switched out on this too.
I had the rattle. Took it to a shop, and they couldn't figure it out. Then took it to an exhaust shop, and before I made it the one block walk to the sandwich shop; the guy at the shop had it fixed. It was a exhaust hanger bolt to the transmission. He tightened it, and 30k since with no problem. That said; it was pretty terrible before. Sounded like my car was falling apart. Just goes to show you that working with competent people is well worth the $.
I have a 2016 impreza that was having the stumbling issue when stopping hard, it also wouldn't want to go right away sometimes. I replaced the in-tank fuel filter (hard to find) and the problem went away. It has 70k miles on it.
Hey, I have a personal concern. I'm looking into a 2017 Outback 2.5i Limited, with almost 200k miles. What should I mostly be worried about? The maintenance history is very extensive, but it's done a lot of city driving. My worry with that mainly lies in the CVT, which isn't clarified on the maintenance records. It also makes a boat like sound. I took it for a test drive, and it's real loud. (OK maybe not horribly loud, but louder than I'd expect for a car that new. The engine rumbles. Not sure if it's normal) Thanks for all you do.
Heck yeah, these are my favorite kinds of your vids. The dx vids. Say, is it safe to assume that everything downstream of that throttle plate is full of schmutz too? Like in the runner or whatever they call em?
My 2013 was wanting to stall out, so I replaced the plugs and the cylinder 4 ignition coil. That didnt work. I ended up rebuilding the engine because the cat was clogged and burned up my valves. A mechanic told me the pistons/rings looked good so I didn't rebuild the block. (Big mistake) it only ran a month or two after spending months rebuilding it, because the piston rings were bad (that's why the cat was clogged) I really wish I would have just done the piston rings while I had it torn apart 😅
Our 2015 Outback 2.5i PZEV Limited also tends to bog down when it comes to a stop almost like it is going to stall, it does concern me a little since the car is at like 105,000 miles.
Southern Subs are less rust, like new. Northern Sub like mine-- rust and corrosion feast. Nice bearing check. Still trying to determine if it's winter tires and/or one or more gearings. Otherwise, Subs hold up incredibly good and will need maintenance or repair.
I have michellin defenders, and they work pretty well up here in MN for the snow and summer driving, ice not so much they are very bad on ice. In MN we don't get much ice all the time, mainly snow though.
A couple of questions: Why not change rear brakes while replacing the RR wheel bearing? Did you change/clean the intake screen along with the throttle? PVC cleaned? Does the throttle/idle relearn need specific software, or is this done by the ECM? Great video! Thanks
My 15 outback periodically does a weird thing when accelerating lightly at low speed where it feels like the torque converter clutch is cutting in and out. The car lurches a few times until I let off the gas and get back on it. Revs arent spiking when this happens so I dont think its cvt related directly. Dealer, of course, couldnt replicate the problem. Am I on the right track with that theory?
My 2015 rattles on certain types of bumps and certainly speeds and angles. I what to say its boots or bushings in the suspension, but I'm not sure how to pinpoint or distinguish whether I should replace them all in a package. I just bought it on line 4 months ago. I replaced an ignition coil which corrected a misfire sputter. But I want to check the throttle body as well. No torque wrench in my box
Robert: How about the Subaru engine maintenance kit SOA868V9341 like you have demonstrated in one of your videos? Wouldn't all three cleaners be recommended for this engine?
Good video. I had another question for you or the audience. 99 Outback 314K, 5MT, key fob not working, ordered two used FOB's,( replaced batteries) ( NorthCoast keyless) same P/N & FCC #'s, trying to reprogram them, and having no response from them, have followed the owners manual, getting the 10 key rotations done in 12.3 seconds , but no 1 honk of the horn, security system disable prior to reset's mode, got any ideas what else I could do? Troubleshooting I have tried so far -1. Disconnect the neg lead on battery, disconnected the positive lead for a battery clearance. 2. actuated the power door locks from inside, exit, close door open, honking because of security system enabled, 3 times on the ignition key, disables the security system, went behind the Drivers sill, connected the white plug for passive mode, tried again, still no entry into the reprogram for newer fobs? Got any other ideas??
It makes me a sad boy the EE20 isn't featured in this channel but I guess its a rare engine type in the states. Would love to see some walkthroughs of the diesel variant!
i have an "almost stalling/extremely rare stalling" on my '12 FB25 Forester, not even cleaning the throttle body helped. I also narrowed the rattling in exhaust to one of the mufflers.
@@siecieh atta boy, Keep Rowing, Right? Keep attacking those miles and enjoying the road via the FB25. I love mine just cleaned the throttle body I got an ‘11 with 96k
Another excellent video by my go-to Subaru expert! My local dealer doesn't like working on any models over 10 years old and doesn't stock many parts for my older ones that I have on the road. If you don't mind me asking, is there an alternative source for the plastic clips? I have had some luck with the assortment kits from Amazon, but there are a few that I just can't seem to find. It seems every Subaru I work on always has a few missing or that get broken when I remove them. The price for the Subaru genuine clips adds up pretty quickly when you need more than just a few. Thanks.
When you're not doing concours restorations, if it fits the hole and holds the part, it's a win. My life got a lot better when I discovered the box of plastic fasteners on the 'zon.
So, the rear rotors have brake pads and I noticed brake shoes. Are the brake shoes for the emergency brakes? I’d never seen a setup like that. I always enjoy watching your videos. Thank you
I have found that since Subarus are such reliable cars, dealerships have a difficult time keeping their flat rate mechanics occupied therefore they can be unscrupulous. If your car is out of warranty you probably won’t pay dealership rates to get it fixed.
My 2014 Forester sends me a oil low light at 1quart low. I've had it go off a few times, once in the mountains and once when I was braking hard/accelerating hard. So checking oil at ever fill up, seems excessive to me when the car will do it for you.
I always enjoy watching Mr Subaru go over a car. The front lower control arm bushings are bad on my 2016 Forester with 56,000 miles. The bushings may only be $30, but there must be a lot of labor involved. The Subaru dealership wants over $1000 to replace them with an alignment. I do travel much of that 56,000 miles off road, so it's not surprising they are bad I guess. The car does vibrate badly when you get up to speed on the hwy, I thought a tire was out of balance.
Yeah...the dealer here quoted $1200. But that was to replace the entire lower control arm assemblies, complete with new front bushings and ball joints. With the saved labor of not having to press those old bushings out and new back in, there was only $150 difference.
Subaru dealership have to replace my upper oil pan on an FA20dit, required the front cover to come off as well. They didnt end up doing for some sketchy reasons. I did it and found tons of huge gauges in all the mating surfaces, even the oil pan got messed up. Terrible. Sad you can't even trust a "professional" dealer.
Cleaning that TB gives me hope that my weird stutter will go away when I do the same. I'm having my doubts I won't be that lucky and my TR690 may be in trouble. Gonna swap CVT fluid as well and see if the combo gets her zippy again.
In an earlier video, he said "don't buy aftermarket bearings" - stick with OEM. If you're not in a hurry, you might be able to get OEM cheaper from Amayama.
Ha.....a rattle is noticed and then we see a wormgear clamp.......yep......someone tried to band-aid the heat shield. In the north, you take a pair of side-cutters (aka dykes) and you remove them since most of us don't park in tall grass! We park in snow.....so yeah....heat shield delete is appropriate. 🙂
My 97 Outback with 270k is throwing a P0740 code and the torq converter only locks up for 17 seconds before unlocking and the check engine light. Swapped out the torq conv lock up solenoid and it worked fine for one day before problems returned. Anybody have any ideas what this could be? Torq conv locks in smoothly, so I don't think it is the problem. Thinking it is electronic.
I have a 2013 outback, 121k. just had to get the valve body replaced, and within 500 miles it started having the same issue as before. im wondering if it is the torque converter, as i have had that same stutter problem since i bought it last year. love your videos!
I have the same exact vehicle with the same exact problem. Changed my cat and the car still starts misfiring after driving on the highway for 20 minutes. Only happens when I drive straight without stopping. I think the car is burning so much oil in this case n it causes misfiring.
Please excuse me, I know this is likely a dumb question. I don’t understand why cleaning the throttle body plate improved the engine stalling while you brake hard. Would you be able to explain that to me please? Thank you.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Totally jealous watching how easy that hub bearing came out. Those of us in the rust belt find a whole new level of frustration with that particular job on a Subaru of that year range
Yeah, that came off easy. Same with the abs sensor. Astro last chance tool FTW in the rust belt. And I don't dare to touch to abs sensor. Try to leave them in place without sheering them off. Like the kids game of operation.
Yep way better than the pressed in ones.
Glad my dealer does mine as part of the life time powertrain warranty. They have put two in.
This right here is making me dread my wheel bearings, I have to do all 4 before my road trip in august
First time I did a Subaru wheel bearing in NY took me and my buddy a whole afternoon to pop the old one off only to be greeted with the one he got on Amazon being for the automatic transmission.
Even in the oversaturated market of TH-cam car mechanic videos, this is a cut above. You're pleasant to listen to, easy to understand, and your camera work on the repair and diagnosis processes is stellar.
We bought a new 2023 Outback 2.5L and plan to keep it a long time!
I love how all Subaru engines look so similar
Aside from some of the yellow fluid caps it looks pretty much just like my 08 at first glance.
Yeah, they seem to be a pretty modular brand at this point. At least in the U.S., isn't their whole lineup longitudinal 4-cylinder boxers, in 2.0L, turbo 2.4L, and 2.5L varieties?
From Vermont... so nice to see a 10 year old Subaru without so much rust...
Crazy how clean and rust free @ 200k compared to vehicles here in New England.
Salt destroys everything up here😮
one thing i love about california is that we don't use salt on the roads, even in the snowy mountains. it's all crushed lava rock/sand
@Chris Coleman they used to use sand for the roads here until about 20 years ago when they switched to pure salt or worse, salt brine.
Our rivers, lakes, streams and well water is being polluted by the salt applications here.
I read in Ohio and places they use coal ash cinders to treat icy roads.
The coal ash has heavy metals and even potentially radioactive materials in it being spread all over communities
@Alex Nelson the only thing we can do up here in Maine is constant applications of fluid film and similar products, inside and out!!!
Things still develop rust , but compared to same year and model vehicles which are not treated, its insane.
We have a 1 owner 2010 Forester with 220k miles on it, almost unheard of these days!
$30 bushings for the control arms, but how much labor? Just had to have both replaced on my 13 XV Crosstrek and was over $1000
Thanks, Robert! I always find new things to check on my old Outback whenever you post these inspections. Need to look at those rear differential bushings on mine.
I'm done with dealerships as well! I took my 13' WRX in for some clunk noise going over bumps and they tried to tell me that I needed all four struts and springs replaced. I got under the car myself and found that the stabilizer bar endlink was busted and loose. Dealership recommended 3k in parts and labor, I fixed it myself for $50!
Great video! These Outbacks are common for the front sub-frame to rot if you live in the rust belt. I've seen a couple or so on my customer vehicles here in Canada with holes in the sub-frame on those models.
Luckily for me I have a local mechanic/technician that works as you do. Well done.
Nice to watch an honest, skilled, professional mechanic who doesn't need to be a screaming, wildly gesticulating clown.
very impressed with your clear descriptions and easy to follow info videos. Enjoying my own 2016 Outback Premium using your help to navigate troubles before they bite .
Dealers are thin on the ground over here near Cognac in France, so its my hands and your knowledge from now on.
The more I watch your videos the more I feel confident on repairing maintenance on my 2018 Subaru Forester.
Thanks for doing this video. Just bought a 2012 Impreza 2.0. This gave me a lot of useful knowledge.
Friend had a 2010 580 with the torque converter issue. They had a tsb for it he had to find to show them. Fixed the issues. His would stall completely stopping.
Thanks for the video Robert, my Subaru outback has 287k just replaced the front hub as I had a Abs code. Take care of yourself and family and Girlfriend and be Blessed ❤️❤️.
@@JamesMosher-nj6mv no the tone ring was broken on the back.
I sort of had the same situation with the transmission 5EAT cleaned my throttle body it’s been great ever since.
I spent a lot of money at my local dealership and they never figured out the problem. Change the plugs, did the carbon cleaning inside the cylinders, but it still had irrational low speed idled at intersections. It’s the EGR valve. Pull that sucker out you’ll find carbon build up that stops it from closing at low idle. Dealerships love to charge for troubleshooting, they never mentioned the EGR valve carbon buildup issues. Super simple fix.
Been riding 1.5 years with check engine light on (2013 impreza 61k miles). Bluedriver says P0171 (lean). 3 times at the dealer, all they did was clear the code for it to come on 20 miles later.
Watched you remove & clean throttle body. Decided to do the same. In the process, discovered a loose seam in the air intake. Electrical tape. Then the idle relearn process.
Fixed it for free.
Thank you!
tried watching the sped up part at 0.25x the speed to hear you. still couldn’t understand but made it 100x better
😂 I filmed it all then said meh, video is long as is and I’ve done countless hub assembly step by steps. No need for another 10mins added.
@@MrSubaru1387 🤣😂🤣
My idle also was fluttering un my fb20, Y also apply 2 more things. A ground from the throttle body to the chassis ground under the pitch stop, and change the fuel filter. Now runs like new
I hope to keep my ej255 in my wrx going for 200k miles. It runs perfect and burns no oil. Sounds great and currently has 93k on it. Been taking good care of it thanks to this channel. It is pro tuned on stock boost pressure and a tiny bit above stock power. About 20 hp over. It’s been such a great car. I love my ej25
I wish I could bring my 17' 3.6R to ya. Get a little noise out of the CVT and don't trust the dealership.
If that came out of the Lafayette plant, I built that exhaust. Well, was supervisor of department that built the exhaust.
I really hate the rear break setup on these models with the caliper/pad brake and drum/shoe parking brake. Really sucks when doing wheel hubs. Had to order both dust cover assemblies here in Indiana.
I’ve “serviced” the temperature blend actuators and air mode actuators on three different Hondas by opening up the actuators, cleaning up the resistance strips and wipers and applying a fresh coat of dielectric grease.
I gotta have you go through my Subie! 264k mile Forester XT Limited. It’s be a treat!
great. My 2008 Forester is at 165,000. Gaskets good. 29 mpg on the highway. A road trip coming up.
Noise at the power steering could be the o-ring at the elbow of that suction line. Been the bane of my existence on every Subaru I’ve owned since 2002. A lot of the Impreza line including the STI have a plastic elbow that eventually warps or doesn’t provide enough clamping force to properly seal that o-ring and allows air into the system.
Mr.Subaru,
I found your channel yesterday while doing research and really like what you are posting.
I was wondering if you have a way that people like myself could request information and or videos that you could either answer or make videos of ? Kinda like a forum where we can ask questions, but only you could answer. I myself don't need 100 different opinions.
I don't know your background but you seem very qualified and do a great job with explaining and teaching.
I myself would be willing to support your channel especially if it was more personalized for what i and/or your audience is looking for.
Thanks for listening and have a great day.
What’s your question? You can email me, MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you, I sent an email with photos attached, any help is appreciated.
In my opinion Subaru is the Best engineered auto ever made, dyi friendly, engine comes out from the top so you do not need a 10000 pound lift to take it out like most modern Toyotas, my 2001 out back purs like a newborn kitten at 320,000.00 miles, I cannot wait to rebuild the auto transmission, what a learning experience that will be, I love Subaru
Robert, My squeaking turned out to be the sunglass holder in the headliner by where the switches are for the sunroof in my 2013 Outback. I don't know if they have that in theirs.
Thank you for this helpful video. I had to replace two rear hub assemblies at 95k but then again I'm in the rust belt of Iowa.
The front hubs for my 2011 Forester were considerably cheaper from Amayama - even with shipping... of course, there is a bit of a wait. If you're not in a hurry, the price is worth the wait. If you get a deal from the dealer, it doesn't matter. Unfortunately, I ordered Moog when I changed the rear hubs - they are now made in PRC - that was a bummer.
Perhaps a neglected PCV valve has contributed to start the oil seepage?
Likely
You just inspected my everyday car, I bought it used in 2015 with over 40k and today it has around 105000k. No major issues, just basic maintenance, the only thing it has is that after 5 miles of driving the brake light starts to blink and the stability control light goes steady on, I plugged a scan tool and nothing came out, I believe it's just a sensor. I've been driving the car like that for over two years
I’d bet that cleaning the MAF sensor would clear up the remaining bit of rough idle/running issue.
In awe. Job almost completes itself when there is no rust.
Nice work, looking at the coolant crossover reminds me I forgot to change O rings when I did a coolant change last fall, good excuse to check my TG valves while I'm at it, my TB was pretty crusty and since the TGV's are upstream of the injectors they don't get a fuel spray other than a tiny bit from rebound when the intake valves close at high rpms
Always learning, thank you for being such a great teacher !
PCV replacement and hose..? clean the Air temp sensor.. Air flow sensor..
Your awesome!!! Thank you for the knowledge!!
Yeah I got the same twitching coming from my climate control mixture door, what’s funny is if I put the airflow either down to the foot well or to the top of the dash it goes away so it must be just the Little contact switch for the center vents, but from what I understand it’s sort of a pain to get to you can finagle your way up in there by removing the TCM and then you can get up through there apparently.
I find the map sensor becomes contaminated with oil and cause the shuddering sometimes. After cleaning car feels much better. Good job Mr. Subaru
Thank you! Things to watch out for in my 9 year old Subí -
The head gasket issue is still plaguing the FB’s. 196k miles on my ‘14 outback and mine went bad, it was pushing oil into the coolant. And I know I’m not the only one, a few others on the outback forums had theirs go out too. It better than the EJ’s, but to say it’s in the past is a bit far stretched, it’s still an issue. But I do like the FB better, aside from dealing with the rocker/lifters when redoing the heads for the gasket, what a pain!
I’ve seen oil/coolant mixing in the F series, but is usually the upper oil pan O-ring.
Wow, difficult to believe the dealership apparently didn't check the throttle body. My interest in DIY vehicle repair/maintenance is less than a year old and I would have done that just from having watched a few of your videos. It's such a minimal effort thing to verify too vs. replacing spark plugs. Makes me wonder if they did check which was why the hose was misaligned and maybe even the clip was missing but decided they could make more money to change the spark plugs.
Definitely. My dealership quoted me $500 to change 4 spark plugs and I did it in less than two hours for the cost of the plugs. I stopped taking my Outback to the dealer. Too big of assholes up there for me.
@@OhhState Yeah, it's $500 for spark plug replacement at my nearest Subaru dealership too based on what I've seen from the difference between their 30K and 60K service package. I have a ways to go until 60K but I plan to do it myself.
Learn as much as you can. Haynes, Chilton, TH-cam etc. Save mucho $$$$dinero and frustration
Thank you for posting this excellent video. I watched the throttle body work you did with great interest. I had a similar issue with my 2019 Forester. The dealer did an "induction service" and I think that entails cleaning the throttle body. The dealer also did an ECM (engine control module?) update to a new software version. I was wondering if you do ECM updates as well? Of course I am not a qualified mechanic and never had any training as one. I'm just a kiddie here. 🙂
Awesome inspection.... good to know since I have a 2014 Outback with 126K miles... I really hope you do a video on the HVAC air blender actuator replacement since mine is in the process of failing,,,,,
What is the dial located on the side of a 4 EAT transmission on my 2001 Subaru Forester…??? When I first start up my Subie, and changed into reverse to back out I get a hard clunk that I feel under my drivers floor area…When it’s warm up, I don’t get that noise and recently I had a loud squeal / shutter when turning off the vehicle..Through this video, I’m think8ng a torque converter problem…
4:33 ha, ha ... you are absolutely right, I just use a small zip ty now rather than the OEM fastener
Great video Probably a good idea to change that pcv and the hose to it to prevent more leaks
Rattle which I thought was rocks stuck behind the heat shield (because there were LOTS) was actually mid exhaust pipe which had a steel bracket tack welded onto it, which broke at the weld and caused a horrible noise when idling.
And love how easy you make pulling that bearing assembly out. When I did mine, it took about 4 hours of pounding and the thing was basically square when it finally came loose. for the second one, I soaked it with penetrating oil overnight and it was a bit easier, but not much. Salt is not our friend. thankfully I was able to get some in where the speed sensor usually resides as well.
Can you do a video on the failing TCVs that are plaguing 19-22 Subarus? I want to change mine out before failure and would love a tutorial.
If I can get my hands on one. Newest Subarus I’m seeing are 17/18 models.
Not all the TCVs fail just a batch up until a certain production date for the part, and as for the replacement you need to remove the intake manifold to even get to the valve
@@MS3BOI This is why I put a certain time frame in my original comment. I just don’t want to be stranded on the side of the road somewhere. I do fully understand that this repair may be too complex for some individuals to tackle with complete removal of the intake manifold being required.
@@iamdunker I meant that not all the TCVs from the 19-22 go bad, some vehicles of those years already have the updated part from factory
@@MS3BOI They didn’t update the part in production cars until june 7, 2021. My 19 forester sport just hit 109K miles and I want to update it ASAP so I am not stranded on the side of the road when it fails. I should have put “19 to 21 Subarus” in my original post.
The engine stumbling was the throttle body on my car which is identical. Just had to clean it up too much buildup on the flap so it has less airflow than if it were clean
Holy crap, a 10-year old Sube with 180K and STILL has the rear backing plates in tact....I'm envious.
Excellent job / Great video!!!
👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much for sharing your extensive knowledge. A very informative video.
I have subura 2013 the tecnetihion if he repogram it ondely one of the key can start the car
Would cleaning the Maf sensor have also helped plus maybe some injector cleaner in the gas ??
changing the camshaft position sensor did lots of work to fix the hesitation on my 4eat forester with 230k. wonder if the cps should be switched out on this too.
I had the rattle. Took it to a shop, and they couldn't figure it out. Then took it to an exhaust shop, and before I made it the one block walk to the sandwich shop; the guy at the shop had it fixed. It was a exhaust hanger bolt to the transmission. He tightened it, and 30k since with no problem. That said; it was pretty terrible before. Sounded like my car was falling apart. Just goes to show you that working with competent people is well worth the $.
I have a 2016 impreza that was having the stumbling issue when stopping hard, it also wouldn't want to go right away sometimes. I replaced the in-tank fuel filter (hard to find) and the problem went away. It has 70k miles on it.
Best thing Subaru could do IMO is to sell direct to consumer. Dealers add little value to the equation.
Hey, I have a personal concern.
I'm looking into a 2017 Outback 2.5i Limited, with almost 200k miles. What should I mostly be worried about? The maintenance history is very extensive, but it's done a lot of city driving. My worry with that mainly lies in the CVT, which isn't clarified on the maintenance records.
It also makes a boat like sound. I took it for a test drive, and it's real loud. (OK maybe not horribly loud, but louder than I'd expect for a car that new. The engine rumbles. Not sure if it's normal)
Thanks for all you do.
Heck yeah, these are my favorite kinds of your vids. The dx vids. Say, is it safe to assume that everything downstream of that throttle plate is full of schmutz too? Like in the runner or whatever they call em?
Yes. Upper engine cleaning would be advisable.
My 2013 was wanting to stall out, so I replaced the plugs and the cylinder 4 ignition coil. That didnt work. I ended up rebuilding the engine because the cat was clogged and burned up my valves. A mechanic told me the pistons/rings looked good so I didn't rebuild the block. (Big mistake) it only ran a month or two after spending months rebuilding it, because the piston rings were bad (that's why the cat was clogged) I really wish I would have just done the piston rings while I had it torn apart 😅
Our 2015 Outback 2.5i PZEV Limited also tends to bog down when it comes to a stop almost like it is going to stall, it does concern me a little since the car is at like 105,000 miles.
Southern Subs are less rust, like new. Northern Sub like mine-- rust and corrosion feast. Nice bearing check. Still trying to determine if it's winter tires and/or one or more gearings. Otherwise, Subs hold up incredibly good and will need maintenance or repair.
I have michellin defenders, and they work pretty well up here in MN for the snow and summer driving, ice not so much they are very bad on ice. In MN we don't get much ice all the time, mainly snow though.
I think the red hydraulic unit connector lever is unlocked. In current models, the locked position is down.
Was it Williams or South Blvd that gave bad info? Thanks and love the videos. I hope you picked yup a new long term customer
Another great video! You can work on my Subaru's any day! Keep up the good work!
A couple of questions:
Why not change rear brakes while replacing the RR wheel bearing?
Did you change/clean the intake screen along with the throttle?
PVC cleaned?
Does the throttle/idle relearn need specific software, or is this done by the ECM?
Great video!
Thanks
My 15 outback periodically does a weird thing when accelerating lightly at low speed where it feels like the torque converter clutch is cutting in and out. The car lurches a few times until I let off the gas and get back on it. Revs arent spiking when this happens so I dont think its cvt related directly. Dealer, of course, couldnt replicate the problem. Am I on the right track with that theory?
My 2015 rattles on certain types of bumps and certainly speeds and angles. I what to say its boots or bushings in the suspension, but I'm not sure how to pinpoint or distinguish whether I should replace them all in a package.
I just bought it on line 4 months ago.
I replaced an ignition coil which corrected a misfire sputter.
But I want to check the throttle body as well. No torque wrench in my box
Robert: How about the Subaru engine maintenance kit SOA868V9341 like you have demonstrated in one of your videos? Wouldn't all three cleaners be recommended for this engine?
Yes. Would be advisable
Good video. I had another question for you or the audience. 99 Outback 314K, 5MT, key fob not working, ordered two used FOB's,( replaced batteries) ( NorthCoast keyless) same P/N & FCC #'s, trying to reprogram them, and having no response from them, have followed the owners manual, getting the 10 key rotations done in 12.3 seconds , but no 1 honk of the horn, security system disable prior to reset's mode, got any ideas what else I could do? Troubleshooting I have tried so far -1. Disconnect the neg lead on battery, disconnected the positive lead for a battery clearance. 2. actuated the power door locks from inside, exit, close door open, honking because of security system enabled, 3 times on the ignition key, disables the security system, went behind the Drivers sill, connected the white plug for passive mode, tried again, still no entry into the reprogram for newer fobs? Got any other ideas??
It makes me a sad boy the EE20 isn't featured in this channel but I guess its a rare engine type in the states. Would love to see some walkthroughs of the diesel variant!
i have an "almost stalling/extremely rare stalling" on my '12 FB25 Forester, not even cleaning the throttle body helped. I also narrowed the rattling in exhaust to one of the mufflers.
Did you get the issue fixed on your forester?
@@KeepRowing247 nope :) it must be electronic engine control, it's nothing to worry about, just annoying
@@siecieh atta boy, Keep Rowing, Right? Keep attacking those miles and enjoying the road via the FB25.
I love mine just cleaned the throttle body I got an ‘11 with 96k
@@KeepRowing247 take it easy, cheers mate! Mine has only 72k miles, half of it is mine, lovit
Another excellent video by my go-to Subaru expert! My local dealer doesn't like working on any models over 10 years old and doesn't stock many parts for my older ones that I have on the road.
If you don't mind me asking, is there an alternative source for the plastic clips? I have had some luck with the assortment kits from Amazon, but there are a few that I just can't seem to find. It seems every Subaru I work on always has a few missing or that get broken when I remove them. The price for the Subaru genuine clips adds up pretty quickly when you need more than just a few. Thanks.
I don’t. Tired a couple generic eBay/Amazon clips with no luck on fit/finish. I now buy/stock the various OE clips and pushpins.
When you're not doing concours restorations, if it fits the hole and holds the part, it's a win. My life got a lot better when I discovered the box of plastic fasteners on the 'zon.
Thanks for a great video Mr Subaru! What model Topdon diagnostic tool did you use with the throttle body relearn or clear?
Topdon Phoenix MAX. Did a video on it Wednesday
Learned a lot, thanks! Very thorough.
So, the rear rotors have brake pads and I noticed brake shoes. Are the brake shoes for the emergency brakes? I’d never seen a setup like that. I always enjoy watching your videos. Thank you
Yes the emergency brake uses brake shoes on that type of rear brake assembly and pads for the rear brakes
Hydraulic service brakes are the disk set up. The inner drum brake assembly is for the parking brake.
I had to direct my Subaru dealership to clean the throttle body a couple times .
I have found that since Subarus are such reliable cars, dealerships have a difficult time keeping their flat rate mechanics occupied therefore they can be unscrupulous. If your car is out of warranty you probably won’t pay dealership rates to get it fixed.
How can I find a mechanic as detailed oriented as you? Why isn't my dealership recommending things like collect maintenance and top engine cleaning?
My 2014 Forester sends me a oil low light at 1quart low. I've had it go off a few times, once in the mountains and once when I was braking hard/accelerating hard. So checking oil at ever fill up, seems excessive to me when the car will do it for you.
My Subaru Legacy had have a wheel bearing replacement at 60,000 miles , is that common ?
Rust belt?
Put three in our Forester at less than 100k miles. We are in rust belt.
Did you further diagnose the hvac actuator? Wondering if you have a video dissecting a driver side servo swap.
I always enjoy watching Mr Subaru go over a car. The front lower control arm bushings are bad on my 2016 Forester with 56,000 miles. The bushings may only be $30, but there must be a lot of labor involved. The Subaru dealership wants over $1000 to replace them with an alignment. I do travel much of that 56,000 miles off road, so it's not surprising they are bad I guess. The car does vibrate badly when you get up to speed on the hwy, I thought a tire was out of balance.
Yeah...the dealer here quoted $1200. But that was to replace the entire lower control arm assemblies, complete with new front bushings and ball joints. With the saved labor of not having to press those old bushings out and new back in, there was only $150 difference.
@Sean Howard
They didn't mention replacing the entire assemblies. They did charge a diagnostic fee of about $200 though.
Subaru dealership have to replace my upper oil pan on an FA20dit, required the front cover to come off as well.
They didnt end up doing for some sketchy reasons.
I did it and found tons of huge gauges in all the mating surfaces, even the oil pan got messed up.
Terrible. Sad you can't even trust a "professional" dealer.
Cleaning that TB gives me hope that my weird stutter will go away when I do the same. I'm having my doubts I won't be that lucky and my TR690 may be in trouble. Gonna swap CVT fluid as well and see if the combo gets her zippy again.
What was the result with the subaru
What's your thought about aftermarket wheel bearings for this vintage of Subarus?
In an earlier video, he said "don't buy aftermarket bearings" - stick with OEM. If you're not in a hurry, you might be able to get OEM cheaper from Amayama.
I was going to ask the same. I have used Moog and Timken on them. Post 6 months they seem to be fine, BUT.
Buy genuine Subaru or NTN if you can find it, OEM supplier. Have used Timken bearings in the past, but no more now that they’ve outsourced.
How in the heck do the techs at Subaru, with one of their own cars, miss the throttle body issue? Jeez that's discouraging.
Ha.....a rattle is noticed and then we see a wormgear clamp.......yep......someone tried to band-aid the heat shield. In the north, you take a pair of side-cutters (aka dykes) and you remove them since most of us don't park in tall grass! We park in snow.....so yeah....heat shield delete is appropriate. 🙂
My 97 Outback with 270k is throwing a P0740 code and the torq converter only locks up for 17 seconds before unlocking and the check engine light. Swapped out the torq conv lock up solenoid and it worked fine for one day before problems returned. Anybody have any ideas what this could be? Torq conv locks in smoothly, so I don't think it is the problem. Thinking it is electronic.
I’d also clean the mass air flow sensor.
I have a 2013 outback, 121k. just had to get the valve body replaced, and within 500 miles it started having the same issue as before. im wondering if it is the torque converter, as i have had that same stutter problem since i bought it last year.
love your videos!
I have the same exact vehicle with the same exact problem. Changed my cat and the car still starts misfiring after driving on the highway for 20 minutes. Only happens when I drive straight without stopping. I think the car is burning so much oil in this case n it causes misfiring.
My 2012 outback has that problem were it wants to turn off, mostly when am coming out a parking spot. Or R to D the engine shakes
Your videos are great!!! I am thinking about getting another Outback. How close are you to Maryland?!?!?! I need a mechanic like you!!!!
Do you happen to have a how to video for cam carrier replacement?
Not yet
@@MrSubaru1387 I'm assuming you pull the engine, and go from there
I've got an interesting case that you may be interested in. 2011 Forester with all the cylinders misfiring, I'm at wits end.
You figure it out? I have an 2011 forester as well. Just hit 96k
New England rust belt
Please excuse me, I know this is likely a dumb question.
I don’t understand why cleaning the throttle body plate improved the engine stalling while you brake hard.
Would you be able to explain that to me please? Thank you.