Hall Effect Joystick Replacement for the PS5 DualSense
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2024
- I was very curious to see what a $1.50 Hall effect joystick module would be like. Would it even work? So I try one in a PS5 DualSense controller. Also, I take a closer look at the joystick module.
Link to joystick modules: kasynparts.com/product/hall-e...
Gamepad tester link: hardwaretester.com/gamepad
0:00 Intro
0:32 Teardown
1:58 Electrical test
3:36 Controller & adjusting
6:28 Joystick force comparison
8:28 Final thoughts - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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The company that makes those orange/yellow hall-effect sticks is "Jinfu" and the blue ones are K-Silver
Thank you very much.
Hello, which one is better?
@syn80 which one is better
@@annoyedgamer1 I've only personally used the orange/yellow joysticks that have a red circuit board that say "L-8K" and I'm not having any issues with them.
@syn80 do 9lonly fit thw hall effect stick or a driver board as well?
Very good video. This is kind of testing is exactly what I was looking for with this product. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
@@metalplasticelectronics354hey i have been researching these and im wondering fo these have sny latency and what version are tgey
The different "feel" you are getting is these G-unit hall effects have a different interior spring tension design compared to alps or favor union potentiometers spring tension design. Even the newer k-silver Hall effects(blue) have a spring tension design similar to alps giving a higher resistance. Id recommend tearing all 4 units down for yourself its and interesting rundown of similar ideas producing different results. These G-units housing modules are my favorite due to the lighter tension and smoother movements add the K silver hall sensors, no noise, smooth feel, HALL EFFECT GOLD❤❤❤
I did put some of my force testing in the video. The force to move the Hall sensor joystick and the Favor Union are about the same. I think the Hall sensor joystick force to move is a bit more even over it’s entire range of movement. I want to say it feels smoother, but I’m not sure that’s the best way to describe it. But I do find myself reaching for the controller I put the Hall sensor in first. I guess that does say something about it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354jinful g unit sticks have less slop that traditional alps, so maybe that’s what you’re feeling.
would you say those blue ones are better than the orange ones?
This is exactly the info I needed to attempt a fix for my two original ps5 controllers that have terrible stick drift now. Tired of replacing them every year, and this looks like it could bring the old ones back to life again.
how this went?
Did you get it done? How are they?
@@kingdeedee i did install them and the sticks work, but i must have a soldering glitch because the right stick button press is acting weird. Once ive had a chance to work on it, ill report back.
@@OnlyWayOutIsThroughdid smth happen?
@@OnlyWayOutIsThrough update?
Best video, Well done,Thanks
Thanks
Thanks I wasn't sure how the adjustment work. This seems to of cleared things up for me. Also major pita with the xbox controllers. Least this 1708. It has a daughter board you need plugged up so you can plug it up to the PC.
Glad it helped
So I have come across some new elite two specific Hall effect modules On eBay and Ali express that are blue and was curious if you’ve heard or seen anything about these? I’ve spent hours doing research and there is nothing online about these new modules.
I sure don't. I just saw these when I was looking for another part. They were so cheap, I thought I've got to see how those work.
Thank you for the video. You give more of an in depth explanation of things. One thing to take into account is if you do it with the xbox controllers. The triggers are hall effect sensors as well. So try and get the left trigger deadzone as dialed in as possible. Since when you push down on the left trigger. The magnet affects the analog stick sensor. Only only on the left stick though.
I don't have an Xbox controller. I guess I should get one, take it apart, and do a video.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 If you're in the US damaged ones can be had on ebay for relatively cheap. Shoot for a series s/x one. They have USB C. I'm only using this older xbox one controller since a friend gave it to me. 1708 model
Dunno if the newer ones have a daughterboard or not. I think so though.
Ooooh man amazing video! Thanks for the tutorial and link!! That website is a real treasure also. Offcourse you'll get like and subscribe!!! 😁👍
Thanks
Can you please doo the range test? Doo you get to use the full range or is there a deadzone on the outter side? Thank you allot for the video.
It maxes out before it touches the case stop. But just by a small amount.
Wow, what a coincidence. I also replaced the Hall sensor I ordered from AliExpress 3 days ago. As you mentioned, calibration was a bit tricky, but it is working satisfactorily. We'll have to wait and see. While watching the video, I was curious. What temperature do you set the vacuum desoldering machine to when replacing an analog module?
It’s an old Hakko 470 so it doesn’t have a temperature readout. I run it at about 90%. I would expect it runs 750 to 800 degrees F.
I have my hakko Fr-301 set to 250 degrees Celsius. I would recommend a lower temp if working on Xbox one s controllers. The joystick pads are much less heat resistant than Sony or later generation Xbox controller boards in my experience.
Hola, yo compré en aliexpres también, y al instalar el mando me dejó de funcionar, se vuelve todo loco, que puede ser? Gracias😢
@@akagicac Cuando el sensor de efecto Hall se reemplaza con soldadura, es posible que sea necesario ajustarlo, pero si no funciona por sí mismo, la soldadura suele ser mala. Parece que hay que volver a instalarlo después de retirarlo.
@@hyunwookim6628 gracias por contestar, lo que me pasa es q el mando dejó de funcionar por completo, se mueven todos los botones, es como que al instalar el joystic se volvio todo el mando loco
ordered 2 of those, will try them as soon as i get my hands on them.
Have you tried them yet?
Updates?
Brooo any fucking updates?
how does your sticks have no jitter but you do not have the add on board installed? i thought the add on board was needed for all hall effects sticks.
I don’t know for sure. There was a comment that these are a later version of the hall sensor and they filter out the jitter but I’m not sure. Guess I should see if can figure out a test setup to see what kind of response they do have. They do have a different feel than the regular joystick. And I want to say they just feel a little smoother, but not in a mechanical sort of way, if that makes any sense.
Just wondering how to get access to the Sony calibration software for zeroing these potentiometers?
It must not be standard software that runs on a PC, or it probably would have leaked out by now.
Hello, good video, I would like to know if the magnetic potentiometer could be installed on the base joystick by removing the magnet it has and putting it on the base plastic of the base joystick axes. You would do me a big favor by telling me because I don't have a heat gun. It would be much easier to put
No, it want fit. While the sensor will snap on a Favor Union joystick frame. The magnetic part requires a different shaft.
@@metalplasticelectronics354ok thanks
on the linked page for these joysticks, the entries for ps4, ps5, and xboxone look the same, with no picture variation. am i to assume that they ARE indeed the same, or is there an actual difference between the three entries that would necessitate such a separation?
I know that the PS4 and PS5 controllers run at different voltages. That may require a different hall module. So they may not be the same.
Do you offer controller upgrades - I would love to fix my 3 useless controllers with these Hal springs 😅
No I sure don't.
Hey, just curious for your input. I recently replaced my drifting dualsense potentiometer joystick with a hall effect joy stick, identical to the one in this video.
After calibrating it to be as close to center as possible, it works fine however it introduced a new problem of snapback, that is when running forward and letting go, the joystick registers movement in the backwards direction upon the joysticks return to center.
Any suggestions on how to fix this while not significantly hurting the ability for the joystick to return to center?
Not really. It almost sounds like there is a mechanical problem with the joystick. I think I would try and use it as much as possible and see if it gets any better with use. Maybe the plastic centering parts will get a bit smoother.
How is fast movements readouts? It was an issue with earlier V3 Dualsense batches where it has wrong movement while spinning the stick fast in circles but they said it was fixed
This is a version 1 controller. It has kept up with as fast as I can spin it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 no you got me wrong I meant the orange hall effect sticks themselves they had 3 releases the last one called V3 which claimed to be jitterless it was the only module that can get wrong fast circular movements readouts
Look at the gamepad tester at 5:42 when you started moving it in fast circular movements you can see how inaccurate it was
I see, it does seem to have a slower response than the regular joystick. That may be where the different feel is coming from.
@@user-en5gu3dd9j Looks like they just threw a 1uF capacitor on it or something for this batch. Yikes
@@holopenginissue is fixed in later batches, can confirm first hand.
do you need motherboard for it too? ive seen some vids where they attach a small motherboard under the the main motherboard
No, I've never used any.
Can you pop off the yellow sensor and use it on the factory sticks? Or you have to replace the whole unit?
No, they are not interchangeable.
Hi there!
I installed the hall effect on both of my controllers, just like u showed us
it ran smooth and perfectly!
Today however,
the left stick seemed to be stuck, it got "stuck" on left all the way.
Faulty hall effect I thought, so I replaced it
but still maximum left input signal, adjusting didn't work, resetting the controller does not work either...
That happened on both controllers.
Any idea why?
Cheers!
Just to the left or upper left? I think upper left is 0 volts output from both pots, but I'm not positive. The fact that two controllers did it is very strange. I've only install the one hall joystick, but it's still working fine. If it's just to the left and up and down work fine, then it's either 0 volts or 1.8 volts on the center tap of the bottom hall sensor. Would need a volt meter to check and see.
just perfectly left, after changing hall to another same problem, reset controller blocked too@@metalplasticelectronics354
Exactly the same thing happened to me on 2 controls with the right joystick, it seems that the board was decalibrated, did you fix it by returning to the classic joystick?
replaced it with a new hall-effect, worked for 2 hours, then it happened again...@@gustavom3587
same thing just happened with mine, worked fine for a while... i turned it off and back on, then right stick all the way left no matter what.
I ordered some for my xsx, anyone know if you need the pcbs people keep using for jitter and circularity? Also does the magnet in a trigger effect the sticks enough to register input?
Interesting.
I had some drift on my right pad so i dismounted,took those 2 plates out ,cleaned them and put back. I even add some inox with PTFE mx6 premium on the rings.
It worked well then suddenly again stick drift happens.
I gess mistake was i have to calibrate and maybe mistake was i used regular Q tips not with the foam,maybe some fabrics left there causing stick drift again?gess i will have to tear a part all again and try 1 more time.
I will order this aswell and try,since all this i am doing for the first time..nothing to lose..
I will use TS-100 Soldering kit.
Cleaning them is only a temporary fix. It's the potentiometer element flaking off or just wearing out causing the drift.
i got the exact same ones... i soldered them on... and basically its not working... when i put the originals back on it works fine. do you need the drivers that go on the back like i keep seeing everywhere?
No shouldn't need anything extra. is the stick position reading all the way up and left, center, or down and right? The number on the Hall sensor I used is 93L35. What is the number on yours? I wonder if they sent you the wrong ones.
I've got a little bit of soldering skill and a small pile of crapped-out joysticks to practice on.
Let's go.
Have fun, it's great getting something working that was broken.
Great video, I replaced my sticks on an old xbox elite controller but the gamepad tester is showing the sticks continuosuly moving down and to the right of center. Do you know what would be causing this? (I'm thinking a poor solder job as i'm quite new to it)
I've never worked on an Xbox controller. So I don't know what the voltage would be. If it is all the way down and to the right, I would suspect a bad ground or voltage supply to the joystick potentiometers. If it’s just a little bit off, is there a way to calibrate the Xbox controller? The replacement joystick will almost certainly have a different center value.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks for ther reply. they are clearly slightly off center which can be adjusted but i think it is a bad ground as you say as it is showing up as if someone is pulling hard down and to the right continuously
I would love to do this but between having to learn how to solder, and having no way to calibrate the stick I think it’s out of my reach.
I think i mess it up on the calibration inverting the axis, and now it doesn't click anymore. Did you get that issue, or even better, do you know how to correct it, or do I have to replace it for a new one?
It's probably not messed up; it might just be loose. It all just presses together. See at about the 1:20 mark in the video. You might unclip the sensor part and try to push the center bushing back into the magnet piece.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thx man! I'll try to open and realign the magnet.
I’m hoping a set of these will be available for the elite 2 controller as it is different from these other joysticks or ones to become available that only replace the sensor part of the joystick
Technically you could by these and retrofit them to the elite but you probably never get center set right
@@RNG_AnarchistI was thinking about that but it’s probably just worth it to let someone make a set or just the sensor part
@@RNG_AnarchistI’ve also got a 3d printer and I heard that the little magnet has a different shaft so I could make something for that
Anyone have a good experience in fixing controller . Im about to do it for first time with this cheap kit . Is there anything better? For ps5 controller or what's the top quality brand for these hall effect one's
hello I have a question I connect my dualsense to my pc to test it on gamepad tester, it detects the controller but it does not display the sticks to see if there is a drift problem how do you do that?
You might try a different browser. If your using Windows there might be an updated driver that needs to be installed. I’m using linux so not sure about the Windows driver.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for your answers
So which of these are the latest ones. Cuz I see on AliExpress they have orange ones with red PCB and black writing and orange ones with red PCB and white writing. Which ones are better?
I don't know. I just got two kits from Amazon, but I haven't had time to test them yet. I hope to get to them next week.
Still haven't had time to test the new kits from Amazon but both kits have the orange sensors and have red PC board with black writing. So I'm pretty sure the black writing is a later revision.
What would cause the up/down motion on the stick not work? I got the new joystick in and when I tested it, I can move it left and right, but there’s no up down motion registering on the program.
Thank you!
NVM! Turns out I am terrible at soldering! (No surprise, first time).
Anyways, i got the new stick in, used that new calibration website from your other video and everything works great! Thanks for all the help!!
Glad it helped.
I have seen some TH-camrs adding a board under the soldering do u know if thats important?
I don't think those will work with the Hall effect joysticks.
Great video! I have 7 dual sense controllers all with stick drift. Im going to try this but I know nothing about soldering. Can you please give a list of all the tools and materials you used in the video? Thanks in advance!
You will need a temperature controlled soldering iron, doesn’t have to be an expensive one. But get one that is at least 60 watts. I use the Hakko FX-951 but it’s expensive. Any good tin/lead electrical solder will work. I’ve always like the Kester #44 63/37. Get some solder wick. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/zxc6VIb8Ox0/w-d-xo.html. Most of the time I use a vacuum desoldering gun to remove the joysticks. I don’t know how well the cheap ones on Amazon work. But take a look at this video for removing the joystick without a vacuum desoldering gun th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html. The PC board holder comes from Amazon. Just search for PC board holder, it’s sold under a few different brands, should be less than 20 dollars.
Thank you!!
Ok, I got everything on the list and watched the videos. I cant seem to get the holes cleared with the wick. Any tips? Thank you!
Fresh solder in the holes and maybe a bit of extra flux. You can even put some extra flux on the solder wick; that sometimes helps. As a last resort, you can use a stainless steel sewing needle. Make sure the needle is not gold-plated; solder will stick to gold-plated needles. Heat the pad very well, and then push the solder out of it with the needle. But you might want to take a look at this before you try the needle: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yVOJ88DuWAiCK4k8 Good luck.
Thanks again!
TKS from brazil
is the circularity full after putting it back to its case?
The circularity is more than full. These Hall sensors seem to max out before the thumb knob hits the case stop. I think that might be part of the different feel they have.
Any ideas how to make the thumb stick max out close to the case?
@@NeoDrenI think you have to buy a third party calibration board for the Dualsense. There is a software tool for calibrating the DualShock 4 but not the dualsense unfortunately.
Could possibly unclip the hall sensor part from the joystick frame and bend it away a bit. Putting a bit more distance between the sensor and the magnet. Centering might be a bit more challenging. But it’s really not bad the way it is.
I'm so, so glad the algorithm pixies decided to recommends your video. I just had both of my Dual Senses joystick replace by the orange colored Hall Effect, and the R side is slightly off centered. Not enough to register on most of the game but for some, like the FF16 the camera is constantly on the move. I reach out to the technician that install it if he can calibrate it, but he is unable to do that. I'm gonna try calibrate it for myself using this video as a guide, thanks! P/S: What software that you use to do the diagnosis? *Should have read the description first 😅
Take a look at this for the calibration: th-cam.com/video/0fK1sapv0YI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Rslcgqs7QcLpviv2
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you!
What is the program you used to test the controller?
It's a web site hardwaretester.com/gamepad seems to work well.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 You should add it to the description tbh
I guess I should, don't think TH-cam would have a problem with that.
I'm having a problem with these modules where some of them will only register left/right movement on the left side in gamepad tester, even though the signal wire voltage hits the full range of 0v to 1.8v. When it's at dead center, the signal voltage is .9v, but the position in gamepad tester is about halfway across the left side of the test ring. Any idea what could cause that?
Well, it is a possibility that the original potentiometer was very far off center. Will the magnet piece not adjust enough to center it?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 its not a centering problem, the range is restricted to the left half of the circle only, and won't even touch anything past the center line regardless of magnet position. It's bizarre. Im wondering if its a manufacturing defect of some kind, or if it's possible for a crossed wire to cause it.
Oh, that is strange. If the center tap goes from 0 to 1.8 volts, then I think the hall sensor is okay. Have you tried resetting the controller? If I remember correctly, 0 volts should be all the way left, and 1.8 volts should be all the way right. Double check the center pin of the hall sensor and make sure it is soldered well. A high-resistance joint might cause it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 resetting the controller seems to have helped. Only issue left was that moving one stick up or down made the other one move left to right in the test app, but as far as i can tell, that doesn't translate to a problem in game.
Yea, that's probably a bug in the web browser. Glad you got working.
Can you please send me the link you test the controller with ? I just cant find it i search for it but i cant find it
hardwaretester.com/gamepad
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you so much
Where can I get Hall effect’s for a Xbox elite 2 controller?
If that's the one with the special threaded shaft, then sorry, I don't know. KasynParts.com does have the Hall Effect joystick for the regular Xboxone controller.
Can these be used in normal controllers using normal potentiometers? I'd really like to put some in my oculus rift CV1 controllers.. 😅
You would have to use the entire joystick module, as the sensor will not fit on either the Alps or Favor Union joysticks.
Yea the entire module i dont wanna keep the old housing or such, if its same size i will go full conversion. if it works im down to spend some money for it@@metalplasticelectronics354
Yeah i'd fully convert them to it, i aint leaving anything from the old ones behind. ifthat works then yeah, i'd spend the money
@@metalplasticelectronics354
If they mechanically fit, the next thing would be to find out what voltage the oculus uses for the potentiometers. The DualSense supplies 1.8 volts to the joysticks. The DualShock is 3.3 volts, if I remember right. I'm not sure what the XBox controller uses. But Kasynparts has four versions, and it wouldn't surprise me if the only difference is the voltage they operate at.
Okay- i'll have a looksie what the voltage is and the size if i find, if all id gonna im gonna try it. Thanks for the info!@@metalplasticelectronics354
Would this be fine if i play shooter games thag need precise movements?
There are later versions of this joystick. See this video: th-cam.com/video/3AVXbBMNcqA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FAKPK013vck4Novp
Bu modülün dualsense ana kartını bozacağını söylüyorlar. Ne düşünüyorsunuz ?
No, it should be fine.
What tool do you use for desoldering?
The one I’m using is a very old Hakko 470 desoldering station. It’s been discontinued for years. There are some knock offs on Amazon. Will see them listed as a vacuum desoldering station or desoldering gun. I don’t know how well the ones on Amazon work but it’s just a vacuum pump and a heater with a hollow tube in the center for the solder to get sucked through.
Hey, if you were able to do a pros and cons video about your gun, would be awesome. Thanks for the reply.
How is your controller doing now after 4 months?
Still working fine.
Hi, could you guys help me please? I've installed the hall effect modules into my controller by myself and one of them is stuck in left upper corner in the gamepad tester, I'm not sure why. Have I damaged something? Thanks
Double check and make sure don’t have any solder shorting out anything. If you have a volt meter check and see what the voltage is on the center terminal of the hall sensor. It’s probably going to be 0 volts if I remember upper left correctly. So something may be shorting out the 1.8 volts to the joystick module.
Ok, I'll check it. Thanks!@@metalplasticelectronics354
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I checked it and cleaned up again and still the same. I unsolded hall effect joystick and solded new ALPS joystick to see if something changed and nothing happens. No idea why this problem is happening 😪 I've already tried everything
Would need a meter to check and see if getting voltage to the joystick. That is the only think I can think of to try.
When I put alps joysticks on a ps4 controller the first set I put on I moved the analog stick before it cooled down and I think it being heated up and moved caused the plastic to cool in a slightly different position than the factory position. I put another 2 new analog sticks on and didn’t hold the soldering gun to the pins as long and also let it cool down before touching the analog stick. Then I rotated the old one I messed up, and the new one, and the old one was way stiffer like I fused plastic parts together by applying heat for too long. The new ones have no stick drift but the circulatory was 20 percent rather than less than 10 percent like my new controllers. So to conclude I believe it was my installation error by applying too much heat for too long on the first ones. Then the circulatory issue of 20 percent was the same for both so I think I just bought cheap analog sticks is the problem with that.
Do they have for ps5 edge controllers??
Didn't see any listed. I don't have one to check and see what voltage they operate at. May be the same ones that go in the DualSense.
7:58 this looks like the difference between Xbox and Playstation standard analog sticks.
Even though I don't have an Xbox, I guess I'm going to have to get an Xbox controller to take apart. See what voltage it runs the joysticks at.
The one I have says GINFULL
The ones I just got from Amazon have that stamped on them, I would say they are later versions.
How do you fix the circularity?
I don't think you can. Not without some added circuity.
how about circularity average error?
I think it was around 18%.
Can they be used on a ds4?
There are versions for the dualshock controller. I don't really know if there is any difference.
I compared the stock vs hall sticks side by side and first impression was thst the hall sticks feel different because they have lag. 😂
It doesn't seem to be lag as much as the Hall sensor high-to-low slew rate. Take a look at this video here: th-cam.com/video/_6DDGpdiuLU/w-d-xo.html
so can battery effect buy that ??
It shouldn't. The controller has a voltage regulator that will supply 1.8 volts.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 good 👌👌
thanks for the video, I changed the stick, now the dual sense blinks three times with the diode and does not work, tell me what to watch
You might take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/w-d-xo.html . You will need a multimeter.
thanks for the next video checked the voltage on both sticks on each 1.8 volts when I connect the battery it appears for 3 seconds then it disappears
I can't understand what it means when the diode blinks three times, it happens when you connect a type C ,battery or put it in a docking station
Look very carefully over the PC board and make sure a solder splash hasn't shorted something out. It kind of sounds like the power supply is shutting down. Maybe too much current is being pulled. I don't know about the blinking. What color LED blinks?
flashes orange three times
If I was skilled enough to put these in I absolutely would
It was my first time soldering /desoldering something and wanted to give it a go. Took me 3 hours to do it but in the end I succeeded (mostly due to lack of a desoldering pump). I actually used replacement joysticks with potentiometers(blue ones). Overall very rewarding experience to fix something that is broken.
How did they do after 5 months ?
Still the same as when I installed it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 amazing!
Hola amigo, compre joystick en aliexpres para ps4 y ps5 al instalar los joystick los dos mandos dejaron de funcionar, se vuelven locos! Que puede ser? Cambie varios de joystick normales y ningún problema. Ayudame porfavor.
Are they regular joystick modules or hall effect sensor joystick modules? The PS5 hall sensor ones are made to run off of 1.8 volts, I don’t know about the others.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 si, son de efecto hall
Then I would suspect they are not the correct ones for the PS5. If it list them for use in both the PS4 and PS5 that is probably a cause for concern.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok, muchas gracias por tu tiempo. Muy agradecido ☺️
PD. Mañana desmontare el joystick, espero que vuelva a funcionar el mando 🙏
@@akagicaclo resolviste? Yo instale los hall en 2 controles y paso lo mismo se quedan con drift a los dias
How yoy enter the.modes to calibrate???
There is not really any calibration. You have to mechanically position the magnet piece to set the center position.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ty for response! There are videos that showing the modes that you can calibrate to that site "gamepad tester " ...I recently changed my joysticks to hall effect joysticks! The mechanic that put them to my controller calibrate them ..but I wanted a 100% calibration to do my self and see how it is done..
I'm not sure what you mean by "modes you can calibrate." Can you give me the title of a video I can look at and see?
i wish they'd just go on and switch to hall effect, but then they'd lose all that money from people buying new ones which i'm sure is the biggest reason why they won't. candy con seems like a pretty good substitute if you want a good hall effect controller. just sucks it's modeled after the xbox layout. i'm partial to the dual sense design so i'm gonna order some of the newer blue ones that require a board here in a few weeks when they're back in stock. i don't have any drift issues, but i've had a lot of problems with the sticks just feeling wonky on 4 dual sense controllers and even one that just felt like it was groaning when i moved it. this gen of controllers has been horrible for sticks not working correctly. never had to replace a psx/2/3/4 controller, but i'm on my 4th or 5th of the dual sense.
You should look at the Ginfull V5. It's my favorite so far.
Where can I get hall effect joysticks installed on my ps5 controller?
I don't know, It seems to be a kinda DIY thing.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 damn I'm not competent enough to do this you'd think with all the tech wizards who could jailbreak a ps3 or sell custom controllers with backpaddles there'd be a market for installing a mod for controllers with technology that was invented in the 90s so we don't get stick drift
Better yet you'd think the big companies like Sony and Microsoft would just switch from analog to hall effect and stop being cheap and greedy capitalism wins again ig
I just wish sony would give us a way to program center for cris sake
Yep, that would solve all the problems and would be so easy. That really is a knock on Sony that they haven't added that.
Now do one on the dualsense edge
Oh, I'm saving up.
sikatt
Why are you speaking in the same exact tone and inflection as JerryRigEverything?
I don't know. Is that a TH-cam channel?
6:09 _hair_
The difference is calibration.
The last 10% of the travel isn't measured.
I don't mind that as I hated 100% being hard to the edge of the stick do I can take it lightly to the edge of the movement and still have 100%.
The bigger issue is inconsistency sensor to sensor..
Can work in xbox series x/s controller???
Kasynparts lists models for PS4, PS5, Switch-Pro, and Xbox One. I think it would depend on what voltage the series X/S controllers run at. The DualSense runs at 1.8 volts. The DualShock runs at 3.3 volts. I don't know about the others.
Can't put your thumb on it more like😁✌👍
It brought a smile to my face. Thanks for the comment.
I have a working, but trashed xbox X|S PCB, I will purchase these hall effect and have a go with a solder-sucker and a cheapo iron. I need to bodge job a USB C port with hopefully only broken anchor points, any vids?@@metalplasticelectronics354
No xbox so haven't had to repair anything from one, sorry.
If you play a game that requires precision these are not it. The deadzone is ridiculous
Cap. I use mine perfectly fine. These are more precise than regular sticks