Amazing work. I have no confidence that I can do this without making a lot of mistakes and a high cost learning curve. I should try this on controllers I wouldn't' mind messing up. Great video, thank you sir!
@@HakunaX well as of now ive seen videos of them doing it without that board and fixing the cicularity and maybe the jitter by using a calibration software for the dualshock but im not sure about the xbox series controller
Completed the install on a friend's PS5 controller. I've also fitted his controller with some Extremerate goodies including the Rise 4 RMB back button kit, Extremerate Clicky face buttons and clicky triggers/shoulders, and swappable dualsense edge style thumbstick caps. Its a DIY pro controller now. Didn't manage to test how the controller fares when adaptive triggers or other features were being used, but the sticks are incredible in the limited testing I've done so far whilst I wait to return the controller to my friend. I'll also add: for the Extremerate Rise 4 install, I've also managed to successfully solder in the mappable thumbstick L3 R3 ribbon cable and also the mouse button solder point. I had to snip away and remove parts of the solder points on the L3 R3 FPC to allow the ribbon cable to solder in neatly at relevant L3, R3 solder points at the Jun Zheng board in order to minimise the risk of bridging. This install was certainly quite challenging for someone like me that's reasonably experienced with hand soldering/desoldering. Had a share of near misses, but thankfully I didn't ruin anything beyond a point where I couldn't fix it. Edit: The desoldering of the original stick box was really challenging for me and I had to destroy and cut the OG stick box in order to desolder. And soldering the correction board's middle pin hole to the Dualsense 5's pcb was also tough. I struggled getting solder to flow even using the wire trick. Instead, I soldered the middle points together first, then threaded the insulated pin afterwards. If I applied too much solder and blocked the through hole, I simply used solder wick + flux to remove any excess until the through hole was hollow again. It was a balance of applying enough solder to make a good connection, but also not overdoing it and accidentally blocking the through hole.
Everyone leaves out the easy way to remove. It literally takes me 5 mins to remove both and clean all pads. I own a cell phone store here in Anderson, IN and do this often. But the easy way of doing it is applying flux and solder to the underside of the board on all contacts for the joystick and apply hot air on that side and the other side have my tweezers gently on it so I can pull it out when all solder melts.
@@TheModgenius ah, see I don't use hot air (Don't own a hot air station and don't really have a place where I can set up to use safely). Hand desoldering with a crap ton of flux and additional fresh leaded solder is the default option. Maybe with some low melt chip quick solder if I'm really struggling. PS5 controllers are mega stubborn compared to other plaforms I've worked on previously.
this video is a godsend, tried to do it myself just based off the image on the product page and definitely bridged some contacts. thank you for saving my sanity
I don't think the gap on the ps5 is because of the board. They really don't come anywhere near the plastic case. I've put these boards in two of my controllers and neither has a gap. I think your gap is caused by not putting back the little white clips on either side of the charging pads when you reassembled. Also if you don't have a vacuum desoldering pump, it's easy to remove these sticks with a cheap heat gun. Before heating, add some solder to each joint. The mixing of fresh soldering wire with the factory solder will lower the melting point. Then mask off the board with aluminum foil to avoid melting any plastic. Gently heat the back side of the joystick until the solder gets wet. Careful not to use too much heat, even with the foil you can ruin a board by melting the ribbon connector ports. Keep only the one area hot. Gently tub on the analog stick from below with a pliers as it heats up and eventually it will just pull out. Now you can do any cleanup with some cheap solder wick and your iron, or you can use a cheap manual solder pump to clean it out. Just keep the area hot with the heat gun and pump away the last little bits with your hand pump. Heat gun + solder pump + wick is a hell of a lot less expensive than a vacuum desoldering tool. Just takes longer.
Because I'm so tired of carbon potentiometers I ended up buying a gamesir G7 SE, but since I know how to solder decently. i'm actually down to do all this to my old elite 1 controller. I just needed this video to attempt it.
@@VKsChannel would you consider doing all this to be quite a permanent procedure? I tried elder's drift fix boards once and removing them was a pain in the... It ended up nuking 2 pads from an old controller I had.
@@jackal1115 it is difficult, I don't want to nuke the tiny pads, so I have to destroy with cutting pliers the joystick module, then just remove each piece with a soldering iron and pull kindly. It's a job for a hot air gun/desoldering station. But with enough care and patience I've done this 3 times.
solder the wire to it before you even put it on the board. then just thread it through the board and the tube. pre cut the tubes too. now you don't have to worry about bridging anything @@VKsChannel
Cool, finally Hall Effects for their branded controllers. Dreamcast may have the best console Hall Effect controllers which had it 26 years ago! It was truly ahead oif it's time. I bet they did that specifically for the father of all open-world games: Shenmue which is still the best open world game in terms of how it makes you feel and enjoy (not a grind, it's not to say GTA, Arkham and other are not good games but sometimes you just want to finish the Riddler trophies already to see the real ending X-D but you have to grind). God bless.
I've read that the orange one is overall better compared to the blue one, could you maybe try soldering one and compare it with the blue? It should be compatible.
@@Modyfikatordo it also fix the non linear curve and delay (i installed one today, and its really Bad for shooter games) im not sure if its the New one, the space between the 2 holes for calibratink is Black
13:00 I mean, when you put it that way, the yellow sticks don't seem so bad either. I'm a bit worried by the jitter though, I think games on steam are more sensitive to it than on console. For context, I need to fix an Xbox controller with drift but I thought that maybe upgrading to hall effect sticks would've been better for longevity. I'm not sure whether I can take the downsides or not...
The jitter isn’t a big deal on console because the system filters it out. You can use the Hall effect thumbstick without this board and calibrate center. If you get full circularity and can center that’s really all you need
I want to doublecheck something. Are the Jun Zheng PS5 hall effect kits compatible with the Extremerate Rise 4 remappable back button kits? I've got a PS5 BDM-010 controller which I'm modding for a friend. I've ordered the Jun Zheng PS5 hall effect kits back in October, but have yet to fit them. I've also got the extremerate rise4 metal back button remap kit which I'm also planning on fitting. Are the Jun Zheng hall effect kits fully compatible with the extremerate BDM-010 Rise 4 kits? Eg, will the power draw from the Dualsense, the Jun Zheng hall effect kit, and the extremerate back button kit all work nicely together? Will it all work normally even on low battery whilst wireless? Or how about under massive stress testing eg. whilst you're wireless and on low battery + you've plugged in headphones&mic +/- using the controller speaker + using the adaptive triggers + vibrate + touch pad + max LED brightness + sixaxis? I don't know how to correctly figure out the power draw from the extremerate Rise4 back button kit, and I haven't found much info about compatibility between these parts upon reading online just yet. The main reason I ask is because an older extremerate Lofty back button kit I fitted on my xbox one controller (in 2021) used to malfunction at low battery level. I use the white rechargeable Eneloops which are rated with the lower 1.2A per AA rather than the standard 1.5A seen on disposable alkaline AA batteries.
It will work normally the extra boards are just to correct the jitter and circularity so they draw almost no power But for the extremerate kits they might get in the way of the L3 R3 flat cable If you install the kits without L3 and R3 cables it will work well
@@VKsChannel brilliant, thanks for the response! As for the L3/R3 flat cables, I'll see if I can modify them by running wires from the Dualsense pcb to the flat cables solder points or something similar.
@@VKsChannel hmm, just thinking. The Extremerate fpc with the 3 latch connectors has direct test solder points for R3 and L3. I might just try soldering some super thin enamel wires directly from these to the L3 R3 solder points on Jun Zheng's boards. Does the extra gap in the dualsense edge fitment come from the Jun Zheng boards pushing up the black battery holder piece (and hence the battery itself) a bit higher? What are your thoughts about modifying the black battery holder piece inside the Dualsense give better clearance to Jun Zheng's boards? Maybe some cutouts on the lower edges to accommodate the boards? The plastic shells on the sony batteries seem pretty robust so I doubt these could get pierced by a stray solder blob or through-whole pin. I'm tempted to try this.
To those who actually wanna try this and are struggling to remove the joystick module from the board, I find it easier to break down the joystick module until it is just bare pins and metal then to seperate those and desolder each pin individually (believe me, I ruined 3 controllers until I learned this trick myself, there is no damage to the board)
One question: I also installed Hall Sticks on a XBox controller and notived afterwards that the LT/RT Buttons also work with hall sensors. After testing it, I could see how the hall sensor in the sticks gets disturbed by the magnets on the trigger. For my normal Xbox controller I bought clicky buttons from extremerate and want to remove the magnet. You seem to only built in the hall sticks. How did you work around that problem? I guess the scuff you have there will work with the same hall technology for the LT/RT buttons. I do not see a proper solution there since installing the board and calibrating it with software means that it will be centered until I press the LT button (which has its hall sensor right under the sicks). That would cause the left stick to drift a little up or down. I would be very greatfull, if you could tell me a proper solution on that or at least how y9ou fought that problem. Thanks a lot and great video!
If I remember correctly, the Jun Zheng though this problem through, especially on the left stick. The driver board and (I think one of their magnetic "potentiometers") is different to what's seen on the PS5 hall effect driver board/stick combo. Did you use the correct parts?
Really tough to do on Elite. You may be able to transplant the Hall modules from these onto the stick boxes on an Elite. Remember, they have screw top stick bases and have adjustable tension, so different boxes than the regular Xbox controllers. The sticks also attach magnetically, which makes it **really hard** to prevent interference with the Hall sensors.
How many watts is your desoldering gun? Seems to work like a charm. Found one on amazon, looks exactly the same, but only 40w, sounds weak compared to what you're showing.
Can you show connection scheme for JDM-030, because I connected everything as you shown and received short circuit, because one of the pins you show to bridge is ground on JDM-030. So what to do now?
If you have short circuited the board the only alternative is to buy a new motherboard, you can find them on aliexpress Are you sure it shorted because of the motherboard model? You should report this back to the store I only installed with the instructions that the store sent me when I got the sticks, there is no way I could have known that
@@VKsChannel I theoretically found the cause of the problem. Problem was not in connection of the driver board, but in that moment, that I ordered PS4 variant, but I received PS4 driver board with analog sticks for Xbox. That is why I received short circuit. Theoretically, if I disassemble it and change hall sensors places to make from xbox PS4 variant, if it still not so bad condition - it will work and after that placing driver board will make it work. If not - yes, new board (or new power controller), new driver boards and everything else new. As I like it (sarcasm).
There's an online tool that will write calibration info to the firmware too, now, so after physically installing the orange or yellow modules you may be able to improve circularity with that idk
So I am curious. Are these blue hall effects able to be used interchangeable on the PS5/PS4/Xbox? I noticed that all models have a different resistance on those axles but didn't think it mattered since this board would correct it and modify as needed.
Does adjusting the circularity make it so the shape is more circle than square? I just got a new controller with Hall Effect joysticks and the circularity test is showing the shape as a square rather than a circle and it's creating additional dead zone diagonally.
Correct, it fixes exactly this issue. As others have said in a few other TH-cam videos.. you really can't just drop in hall effect analogues and call it a day. Lots of people offer this on eBay and while it's much cheaper and easier for the installer it just doesn't work very well. You don't get the circularity back, and also the range and center point is off. They fix the drift but introduce other issues. This driver board fixes all of that.
@@miker13 I bought a controller from a company who now offers them and my circularity error is over 20% on both sticks. Tried adjusting the circularity output and all it did was make it so the sticks don't reach full potential to the full x and y axis. This company stated that it's because it's a RAW input and you can't change it. Been in a fight with them for almost two weeks and they refuse to take accountability
@@k0ntroversialgaming During installation the silicone isolation tube needs to be seated fully down against the plastic housing of the sensor. It must stay fully seated. Once the silicone is trimmed and the connecting wire is attached it really shouldn't move. However, if it moves up during the install the centre pin of the sensor can come into contact with the main PCB and, well.. that defeats the purpose of driver board. But here's a simple test to see if everything is seated correctly: Try using the centre point adjustment mode to see if you can move the dot on the gamepad tester site. You should be able to move it vertically & horizontally. Try moving it waaay off centre, save it by clicking the analogue R3/L3 (depending on which one you're testing of course), and then do it again to re-centre it. If the driver board isn't intercepting the X or Y axis signal correctly you'll probably notice that the dot will only move horizontally or vertically.. or maybe neither!
@@miker13 I've tried everything to calibrate the square shape of the circularity test and nothing works. The company is aware of the issue and they are even telling partners not to purchase the hall effect upgrade
@@k0ntroversialgaming Well... I know exactly what you're referring to. The square shape appears immediately after installation but it's then corrected by the driver board during the calibration steps. Did you try the test I mentioned in my previous comment? It sounds like the analogues are bypassing the driver board so it isn't doing its job. I've installed so many of these I've lost count and they all work exactly like ViktorSTK's video. I had the occasional issue when I first started offering this mod but now it takes me roughly 30 mins per stick and they work as expected every time.
Dependendo do modelo ele tem um pouco de delay sim Eu deixei um comentario marcado que mostra o problema Tem um modelo mais novo que isso foi corrrigido, sugiro que na hora de comprar fale com o vendedor e pergunte se tem delay ou nao
@@VKsChannel vc é brasileiro mano? Como descobriu meu logo do canal entregou né kk mano o problema é que nem todo vendedor é honesto eles querem vender e pra piorar eles ficam lá do outro lado do mundo para devolver é uma dor de cabeça você tem algum link de confiança?
Does that mean that I won't be able to calibrate the joists that are outside the center if I don't place that black circuit? Is it 100% necessary or can it be calibrated without the need for that circuit? I enter the program on the PC you show, but it doesn't let me enter any of the a, b and s options 🤷♂️
@@VKsChannelI don't think so because the elite series 2 has very different modules and a different board layout plus you would have to find different thumb sticks. A very different video.
@HastyRhombus760 uts similar enough. There's already videos that show this but take it from me, it is EXTREMELY difficult to desolder the elite sticks.
@@jackal1115 I have replaced about a dozen elite modules desoldering them is NOT hard if you use quality iron, solder, and flux, not the cheap Chinese crap. I want to make sure of the compatibility.
Where did you get that small tube? Also, any specific wire I can buy for connecting the joystick module though the tube to the pcb? Your video is the best so far and I can do this. Is there a kit that comes with everything?
After v5 and v51 are installed on the Xbox Series X controller, can I normally update the controller firmware when available and calibrate it from within the Xbox Series X itself? Why did those yellow hall effects cause a bug after calibration?
Also, any ideas where to buy these sticks for UK and Europe currently? Jun Zheng isn't selling here currently, and other sellers such as VaalPaev, New Chip Store, and Gamer Zone Store seem to selling their driver/stick combinations but I don't know if they're of the same quality as Jun Zheng's. Its also not clear whether they come with the nicer spare sticks which Jun Zheng used to ship out.
I got mine from New Chip Store. I've done over a dozen with about a 60/40 split in regards to Dualsense/Xbox. Perfectly happy with the analogue hall effect sticks. They look exactly like Jun Zengs in the video so I suspect they're the same 👍🏼
@@miker13 that's great to hear! Thanks for getting back. Might grab a few extras from New Chip Store. Kind of under-ordered with the original Jun Zheng products and wished I committed a bit more. Another few questions if you don't mind, not sure if you'll have answers: I take it New Chip Store doesn't come with the spare optional smoother stick boxes like Jun Zheng's? Also how does this function with xbox elite controllers/upgraded controllers with their magnetic swappable thumbstick caps? Do the magnetic thumbstick caps cause significant disruption to the new hall sensors or the factory xbox hall triggers (especially on LT)?
@@naliboi93 I've not worked on an elite controller yet but I think Jun Zeng had some advice on this on his own TH-cam channel. I wouldn't think the magnets in the stick caps would interfere with the hall effect function. The magnet for the sensor is located on the side of the stick, it's very small and it's in very, very close proximity to the sensor. At least I don't think it would be an issue but others might be able to confirm.
@@naliboi93 forgot so say I did get batch order that came with a choice of two sticks but every order since has just been K-Silvers. They've been fine for me and I've had no customer complaints.
I have a question... Was thinking about installing hall sticks for my xbox controllers but... As we all know, xbox controllers are using magnet triggers, and for the LT the sensor is under the left analog stick. Does pushing the left trigger cause any issues on the left stick? Like drifting or decalibrating the stick? Have you tested that? 😮
Hey just wanted to say desolder pumps are cool in all but ripped pads from heat damage are not Use low temp chip removal solder stuff is a life saver and will work on the sticks I've removed them with it myself and recommend this over all removal methods as it's the safest for the board and pads for the experience Use solder wick to roughly absorb most of the original solder then let it cool down add some Flux and go to town with the low temp solder just hardly touching it after its melted in and then work the stick with a cloth padded screw driver spudger and best of all a wooden stick and they pop right out every time safe and sound High temp solder temp solder removal tools are nice but if ur unexpierenced it could be an easy disaster so I hope this saved a few boards out there 🙏
Yeah, I think I might've cooked the board of my controller. Behaves weirdly since I've attempted to swap sticks. Each stick has an axis screwed as if they were shorted and wont respond to movement, but everything looks clean. Even completely removing the stick, I still get a reading. And if I touch the hole for the center pin of the potentiometer when its removed, the reading for the axis is corrected and goes to 0.... what? I'm not touching anything else, is by body acting as a ground? I'm lost ._. First soldering attempt, not fun 😅 So solder wick, flux, low temp for desoldering, gotcha. But what about soldering the new stick in? I can't get the friggin' solder to bond to the pads unless I get it stupidly hot, it'll just form a bubble on the pin otherwise.
@benjaminschacht92 hey buddy sorry I'm late to this I would to you to take a meter and start "beep testing" around between each leg if I remember right or at least with bdm 30 the x axis outside pin and y axis rear pin are both connected to one another and I'm pretty is ground I can check here in a little while but you shouldn't have beeps between anything else and ground Knowing the ball chips they use its ENTIRELY possible to have accidentally shorted something with a solderball that flew away
@@benjaminschacht92oh and also yeah new stick after you've cleaned the low temp stuff off you want to use regular 60/40 lead silver or if you're a stickler or in prison.... I mean California lead free Low temp to remove always use Flux and ventilation Leaded or not to re attached The low temp stuff is great because most solder is 60/40 anyway and Is soluble in the stuff you just need Flux little extra carefulness cause it can get everywhere
@@Skhillz_FN I can get leaded solder, but it's still illegal to sell any electronics with lead where I am. But what are the odds of getting someone testing used stuff for lead? 1 to 10M probably, but I just jinxed it, so... Thanks for the tips :)
basicly any small, enameled wire would work. Could probably get away with like 28 gauge silicone wire as well. AS long as it's insulated and small enough anything would work
Ordered mine in november 15, I'm waiting it arrives, but the gap in the DualSense shell is a new information for me, not mentioned in the seller description or in the reviews... Sad... I don't want to cut my battery older... However nice video thanks 👍
Do I have to use the sticks and boards together? I'm asking because I bought Hall effect sticks from another manufacturer before I knew these were available. So I just bought the boards since I already had the sticks. I can't seem to get into calibration mode.
@VKsChannel so I got my sticks successfully installed and into calibration mode following your video. Props on the good video btw. Best tutorial out there that I've seen so far. Anyways I'm trying to understand how you over shoot because my circulation isn't reaching all the way around.
when calibrating the directions get the numbers under 1.00000, then move the stick ad slowly increase it to 1.00000, when you reach that number you can count 3 or 5 extra flicks, it won't display over 1.00000 but internally the sensor will be counting those flicks, after that press on the stick to save and repeat the same process to the other directions, just do exactly as I do in the video and you'll get it right, you may need to add more steps than mine, I added 3 but you can add 5 or 6 or 8 but it is the same procedure@@tylerlambert4541
Hey, great video! I tried replacing the joystick potentiometers on my PS5 controller and now it blinks orange three times, won’t turn on, and won’t appear on gamepad tester. Any thoughts on how to fix it or what could cause it? Hard reset button doesn’t fix it
Hey Can you calibrate the stick without the board? The jun Calibration Board link says that the item is not availible for my country (germany) but the sticks are availible
I wanted to use them on the xbox elite 2 controller. Do you have a link for a Board and Stick with calibration for germany that is working like the ones in the video?
Hmm, the flexibility that it adds to the sticks (config center point, and range, etc.) is awesome to have. BUT.. There are some BUTTS.. How's the latency.. (of course, that question only applies to setups which would enable this to be a quantifiable metric.. as in, not on a console for ex. ) ? I assume the jitter filtering (buffer and processing) alone would be the one factor that would make zero latency an impossibility to begin with. I also do assume that these little PCA's would work perfectly fine on the standard/original pots, enabling you with all of the extra setup (although.. at the cost of the added latency!. ) Other than this, I find that the back case of the DualSense not properly sitting after the mod is unacceptable (maybe a newer revision on a Flex PCB would fix this in the future.. ) Maybe that newer revision could even come with a switch to turn the jitter filtering off (removing the added latency) in order to use with the original pots..
@@VKsChannel It's a pass-through device, being "connected directly to the motherboard" has nothing to do with the latency, but the way it works does. It would have made no sense not.. being "connected directly to the motherboard"..
@@vaultboy783 No, I don't know of any easy way of measuring the latency other than by subjective perception ("feel") But, if there is where you were getting at, no, there will be no difference between latency before and after calibration. The latency is just inherent to the processing of the signals from the 2 axis sensing elements.
@@CostinmuscaMicrocontrollers like the one used for this board are capable of doing processing in microseconds, as in one one thousandth of a millisecond. It's not going to add any human perceptible latency unless timer delays were added to slow it down on purpose.
Sometimes it is, sometimes not It depends on the quality of the solder they used If its a bad quality solder it gets very sticky and you have to use the pump multiple times
I've done several successful installations on Dualsense controllers and have just tried my first Xbox controller today. After connecting to the gamepad tester site both sticks are displaying as if they're stuck in the diagonal down/right position. I'm using the newer v5/v5.1 driver boards for the right and left respectively. It's tricky to see from the example in this video where my issue could be as the layout is different. Also the images on AliExpress seem to be missing a connection from the outer-pin also. Does anyone have a link for a good schematic for the v5/v5.1 boards?
@@VKsChannel thanks I'll give that a try. I wasn't sure if it was worth going back to the AliExpress seller i bought it from as there are dozens of sellers. I can see you've added a link in the description 👍🏼 Edit: Figured it out. Assumed that one of the pads on the AliExpress diagram was missing a connection and added it myself. Turns out the guide was right and I was wrong 😅
Hi there! I installed the hall effect on both of my controllers, just like u showed us it ran smooth and perfectly! Today however, the left stick seemed to be stuck, it got "stuck" on left all the way. Faulty hall effect I thought, so I replaced it but still maximum left input signal, adjusting didn't work, resetting the controller does not work either... That happened on both controllers. Any idea why? Cheers!
@@VKsChannelhad this happen to me today. Both boards probably took me around 4 hours to install. This are imo garbage and not worth the installation hassle.
Can you tell me please how to enter mode A For calibration to a ps 5 controller..I changed the joysticks to Hall effect and can not enter the calibration mode
@@VKsChannel ty for response...my mistake...I have hall effect joystick v2 but I did not put the boards you show on the video ..I.just put out the old joystick and replaced them with the new ones...maybe that is the reason why I can not enter to calibrate from there...maybe it need s physical calibration...which I already did but I wanted a 100% result
I got the equipment shown in the video for desoldering, it stopped working after 5 minutes x'D Any tips for a soldering iron on the cheaper side? sub 500 eur
@@VKsChannel There isn't much to get stuck anyhow, I've cleaned it thoroughly, it's just really poorly made. (Well, at least my version was, luckily got it refunded) I'm in EU, so I got the EU one, not much room for error on my end. Due to the heat required to melt the solder on the elite series (having a really bad soldering iron) I wasn't able to use a manual one (The solder would harden before I'd get a chance to suck the solder in)
I have yet made it work for me… the board just reads 0 on the pins. I guess I'll need to for go the circularity for now. Just the hall effect sensors are pretty good on their own already
Thank you for the good vid. It looks a little tricky to install and more difficult to reinstall. I expect a product that is easier to install. Will ms and sony put hall sensors in the next generation of controllers? So far, it seems very negative.
The only version of this product that MIGHT be coming is the open source hall effect stick project from Marius Heier. His system is basically integrated into a pure replacement stick. But you'll still need to be able to desolder the stick from the board. Microsoft and Sony at a BARE minimum need to make these joysticks a removable part. They should be attached with screws and ribbon cable rather than soldered down directly so they can be replaced. But really they need to go away from this type of potentiometer entirely. It's a bad design. If nothing else the WIPER should be where the carbon film is placed, that way it could be replaced as a consumable part, even if the rest is soldered down. Or just go to hall sensors like they should have done a decade ago. So many options yet both companies use the exact same shitty joystick. At least nintendo's joycons are easy to repair because the stick is replaceable.
Very nice video and informative - as the other ones on your channel. Big thank you! Do think the Jun Module would work with a Nintendo Pro controller? I'm very curious about this option.
@@VKsChannelmost fps games where hall sticks are needed the most frequently use them. I think i see what you mean if you noticed that the stick isn't working before you pressed it. Thanks for the video.
Can somebody point me to the app you're using to help debug the controller and also a guide on how to enter the different modes you're entering while debugging? Thank you
@@VKsChannelis there anywhere online that describes the methods for debugging the controller? I see in the video holding a specific button when turning it on for a specific way to program the new sticks.
This is a step forward, but I don't think I'm willing to do something like this. I've soldered a few things and fuxed a few consoles, but I believe this is still too much for me.
Hey, Im doing the exactly same thing your are doing to calibrate the sticks. But its just not working for me. When I tilt the stick and plug it in nothing is happening. Its just as normal. Please help me
@@FlawlessMagmaHDYT it seems that something may have gone wrong on the installation, we had a similar problem on our discord community, I suggest that you try checking all connections with a multimeter
Good that this board is not needed anymore . Correct on the stick the drift through the hole in the Poti abd then Center it through Software to full center
Hey so I noticed you’re big on the driver installs and everything. I have ran into many elite series 2 controllers that were putting Hall effect drivers on and had some questions regarding the install
Amazing work. I have no confidence that I can do this without making a lot of mistakes and a high cost learning curve. I should try this on controllers I wouldn't' mind messing up. Great video, thank you sir!
There are yellow ones that dont need the xtra boards
@alexr2401 I was convinced that it won't work on an Xbox one controller without the extra board, or is that incorrect?
Are you sure the yellow ones don't need the board to resolve Jitter and Circularity?
@@HakunaX well as of now ive seen videos of them doing it without that board and fixing the cicularity and maybe the jitter by using a calibration software for the dualshock but im not sure about the xbox series controller
yooo that is so sick, way better than the analog ones where you have two screws
Completed the install on a friend's PS5 controller. I've also fitted his controller with some Extremerate goodies including the Rise 4 RMB back button kit, Extremerate Clicky face buttons and clicky triggers/shoulders, and swappable dualsense edge style thumbstick caps. Its a DIY pro controller now.
Didn't manage to test how the controller fares when adaptive triggers or other features were being used, but the sticks are incredible in the limited testing I've done so far whilst I wait to return the controller to my friend.
I'll also add:
for the Extremerate Rise 4 install, I've also managed to successfully solder in the mappable thumbstick L3 R3 ribbon cable and also the mouse button solder point. I had to snip away and remove parts of the solder points on the L3 R3 FPC to allow the ribbon cable to solder in neatly at relevant L3, R3 solder points at the Jun Zheng board in order to minimise the risk of bridging.
This install was certainly quite challenging for someone like me that's reasonably experienced with hand soldering/desoldering. Had a share of near misses, but thankfully I didn't ruin anything beyond a point where I couldn't fix it.
Edit:
The desoldering of the original stick box was really challenging for me and I had to destroy and cut the OG stick box in order to desolder. And soldering the correction board's middle pin hole to the Dualsense 5's pcb was also tough. I struggled getting solder to flow even using the wire trick. Instead, I soldered the middle points together first, then threaded the insulated pin afterwards. If I applied too much solder and blocked the through hole, I simply used solder wick + flux to remove any excess until the through hole was hollow again. It was a balance of applying enough solder to make a good connection, but also not overdoing it and accidentally blocking the through hole.
Everyone leaves out the easy way to remove. It literally takes me 5 mins to remove both and clean all pads. I own a cell phone store here in Anderson, IN and do this often. But the easy way of doing it is applying flux and solder to the underside of the board on all contacts for the joystick and apply hot air on that side and the other side have my tweezers
gently on it so I can pull it out when all solder melts.
@@TheModgenius ah, see I don't use hot air (Don't own a hot air station and don't really have a place where I can set up to use safely).
Hand desoldering with a crap ton of flux and additional fresh leaded solder is the default option. Maybe with some low melt chip quick solder if I'm really struggling. PS5 controllers are mega stubborn compared to other plaforms I've worked on previously.
@@naliboi93 oh ok I see. Yeah hot air is a life saver honesty. But you got to do what you got to do
How much would you charge to do it for someone else??
@@TheModgenius odd question but would you be down to do it for a price ?
this video is a godsend, tried to do it myself just based off the image on the product page and definitely bridged some contacts. thank you for saving my sanity
That is a really clever solution! I'm going to have to pick up a few once the cost goes down a bit.
Somehow this video is a better instruction than both Jun Zheng's "detail" videos, you two show cooperate :-)
I don't think the gap on the ps5 is because of the board. They really don't come anywhere near the plastic case. I've put these boards in two of my controllers and neither has a gap. I think your gap is caused by not putting back the little white clips on either side of the charging pads when you reassembled.
Also if you don't have a vacuum desoldering pump, it's easy to remove these sticks with a cheap heat gun.
Before heating, add some solder to each joint. The mixing of fresh soldering wire with the factory solder will lower the melting point.
Then mask off the board with aluminum foil to avoid melting any plastic. Gently heat the back side of the joystick until the solder gets wet. Careful not to use too much heat, even with the foil you can ruin a board by melting the ribbon connector ports. Keep only the one area hot. Gently tub on the analog stick from below with a pliers as it heats up and eventually it will just pull out.
Now you can do any cleanup with some cheap solder wick and your iron, or you can use a cheap manual solder pump to clean it out. Just keep the area hot with the heat gun and pump away the last little bits with your hand pump.
Heat gun + solder pump + wick is a hell of a lot less expensive than a vacuum desoldering tool. Just takes longer.
No bro they just have so much room for modification it's insane truly the gap is there naturally
Why is bros comment so long?
@@therealloganyt237cause he explained something? lol jackass
@@therealloganyt237to inform you. You should be thankful he gave you that much info.
Because I'm so tired of carbon potentiometers I ended up buying a gamesir G7 SE, but since I know how to solder decently. i'm actually down to do all this to my old elite 1 controller. I just needed this video to attempt it.
Good luck!
Especially with soldering the wire to the terminal inside the plastic tube
@@VKsChannel would you consider doing all this to be quite a permanent procedure?
I tried elder's drift fix boards once and removing them was a pain in the... It ended up nuking 2 pads from an old controller I had.
Dude desoldering the sticks on elite is extremely difficult. I couldn't barely managed one after hours but knocked a small capacitor off the board
@@jackal1115 it is difficult, I don't want to nuke the tiny pads, so I have to destroy with cutting pliers the joystick module, then just remove each piece with a soldering iron and pull kindly. It's a job for a hot air gun/desoldering station. But with enough care and patience I've done this 3 times.
solder the wire to it before you even put it on the board. then just thread it through the board and the tube. pre cut the tubes too. now you don't have to worry about bridging anything @@VKsChannel
Cool, finally Hall Effects for their branded controllers.
Dreamcast may have the best console Hall Effect controllers which had it 26 years ago! It was truly ahead oif it's time. I bet they did that specifically for the father of all open-world games: Shenmue which is still the best open world game in terms of how it makes you feel and enjoy (not a grind, it's not to say GTA, Arkham and other are not good games but sometimes you just want to finish the Riddler trophies already to see the real ending X-D but you have to grind).
God bless.
I've read that the orange one is overall better compared to the blue one, could you maybe try soldering one and compare it with the blue? It should be compatible.
Maybe in the future... I have accidentally burnt myself while attempting this mod... 💀
Yes Orange is better. New Rev Red fix more alot of problem that was in rev2 Black
@@Modyfikatordo it also fix the non linear curve and delay (i installed one today, and its really Bad for shooter games) im not sure if its the New one, the space between the 2 holes for calibratink is Black
@@Modyfikatorlink?
13:00 I mean, when you put it that way, the yellow sticks don't seem so bad either. I'm a bit worried by the jitter though, I think games on steam are more sensitive to it than on console.
For context, I need to fix an Xbox controller with drift but I thought that maybe upgrading to hall effect sticks would've been better for longevity. I'm not sure whether I can take the downsides or not...
The jitter isn’t a big deal on console because the system filters it out. You can use the Hall effect thumbstick without this board and calibrate center. If you get full circularity and can center that’s really all you need
Hello, can you please do te video for the v5 jun zeng modules?
Where can I buy the kit? The Aliexpress link Is dead, I cannot find it anywhere damm
I want to doublecheck something.
Are the Jun Zheng PS5 hall effect kits compatible with the Extremerate Rise 4 remappable back button kits?
I've got a PS5 BDM-010 controller which I'm modding for a friend.
I've ordered the Jun Zheng PS5 hall effect kits back in October, but have yet to fit them. I've also got the extremerate rise4 metal back button remap kit which I'm also planning on fitting.
Are the Jun Zheng hall effect kits fully compatible with the extremerate BDM-010 Rise 4 kits? Eg, will the power draw from the Dualsense, the Jun Zheng hall effect kit, and the extremerate back button kit all work nicely together?
Will it all work normally even on low battery whilst wireless? Or how about under massive stress testing eg. whilst you're wireless and on low battery + you've plugged in headphones&mic +/- using the controller speaker + using the adaptive triggers + vibrate + touch pad + max LED brightness + sixaxis?
I don't know how to correctly figure out the power draw from the extremerate Rise4 back button kit, and I haven't found much info about compatibility between these parts upon reading online just yet.
The main reason I ask is because an older extremerate Lofty back button kit I fitted on my xbox one controller (in 2021) used to malfunction at low battery level. I use the white rechargeable Eneloops which are rated with the lower 1.2A per AA rather than the standard 1.5A seen on disposable alkaline AA batteries.
It will work normally the extra boards are just to correct the jitter and circularity so they draw almost no power
But for the extremerate kits they might get in the way of the L3 R3 flat cable
If you install the kits without L3 and R3 cables it will work well
@@VKsChannel brilliant, thanks for the response!
As for the L3/R3 flat cables, I'll see if I can modify them by running wires from the Dualsense pcb to the flat cables solder points or something similar.
yeah it can work but it will be a very painful installation @@naliboi93
@@VKsChannel oh man 🥲 My friend better appreciate all the hard work when I'm finished
@@VKsChannel hmm, just thinking. The Extremerate fpc with the 3 latch connectors has direct test solder points for R3 and L3. I might just try soldering some super thin enamel wires directly from these to the L3 R3 solder points on Jun Zheng's boards.
Does the extra gap in the dualsense edge fitment come from the Jun Zheng boards pushing up the black battery holder piece (and hence the battery itself) a bit higher?
What are your thoughts about modifying the black battery holder piece inside the Dualsense give better clearance to Jun Zheng's boards? Maybe some cutouts on the lower edges to accommodate the boards? The plastic shells on the sony batteries seem pretty robust so I doubt these could get pierced by a stray solder blob or through-whole pin. I'm tempted to try this.
i hope all controller for next gen had this technology, so gamers not worry about stick drift again
To those who actually wanna try this and are struggling to remove the joystick module from the board, I find it easier to break down the joystick module until it is just bare pins and metal then to seperate those and desolder each pin individually (believe me, I ruined 3 controllers until I learned this trick myself, there is no damage to the board)
And if you are struggling with solder that won’t go away and remains in place, add more solder to heat it and try de-soldering it again.
Heat gun works wonders for removal, just be mindful of temperature and the other sensitive electronics on the board
can the calibration board still used with an orange hall stick?
Jun said yes but the blue version is better
One question: I also installed Hall Sticks on a XBox controller and notived afterwards that the LT/RT Buttons also work with hall sensors. After testing it, I could see how the hall sensor in the sticks gets disturbed by the magnets on the trigger. For my normal Xbox controller I bought clicky buttons from extremerate and want to remove the magnet. You seem to only built in the hall sticks. How did you work around that problem? I guess the scuff you have there will work with the same hall technology for the LT/RT buttons.
I do not see a proper solution there since installing the board and calibrating it with software means that it will be centered until I press the LT button (which has its hall sensor right under the sicks). That would cause the left stick to drift a little up or down.
I would be very greatfull, if you could tell me a proper solution on that or at least how y9ou fought that problem.
Thanks a lot and great video!
If I remember correctly, the Jun Zheng though this problem through, especially on the left stick. The driver board and (I think one of their magnetic "potentiometers") is different to what's seen on the PS5 hall effect driver board/stick combo.
Did you use the correct parts?
Would this fit the xbox elite v2 controller? I see hall effect sticks available, but none come with the pcb. Although the pcb's are sold separately.
Really tough to do on Elite. You may be able to transplant the Hall modules from these onto the stick boxes on an Elite. Remember, they have screw top stick bases and have adjustable tension, so different boxes than the regular Xbox controllers. The sticks also attach magnetically, which makes it **really hard** to prevent interference with the Hall sensors.
How many watts is your desoldering gun? Seems to work like a charm. Found one on amazon, looks exactly the same, but only 40w, sounds weak compared to what you're showing.
Its 30w!
It works well but not always, especially if the solder is very old
@@VKsChannel thank you, ordered it and love it!
Gulikit said they're making Hall sticks right? Maybe they can make em just right
(or not 🤷 )
VK you don't know if this will work for the elite series 2 controller do you? I would assume it would.
I think yeah it would work
Can you show connection scheme for JDM-030, because I connected everything as you shown and received short circuit, because one of the pins you show to bridge is ground on JDM-030. So what to do now?
If you have short circuited the board the only alternative is to buy a new motherboard, you can find them on aliexpress
Are you sure it shorted because of the motherboard model?
You should report this back to the store
I only installed with the instructions that the store sent me when I got the sticks, there is no way I could have known that
@@VKsChannel I theoretically found the cause of the problem. Problem was not in connection of the driver board, but in that moment, that I ordered PS4 variant, but I received PS4 driver board with analog sticks for Xbox. That is why I received short circuit. Theoretically, if I disassemble it and change hall sensors places to make from xbox PS4 variant, if it still not so bad condition - it will work and after that placing driver board will make it work. If not - yes, new board (or new power controller), new driver boards and everything else new. As I like it (sarcasm).
There's an online tool that will write calibration info to the firmware too, now, so after physically installing the orange or yellow modules you may be able to improve circularity with that idk
1:26 this looks awesome. Where can I get one?
Here s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFaEYMX
Just pay attention because the one with US plug is 110v and EU plug is 220v
So I am curious. Are these blue hall effects able to be used interchangeable on the PS5/PS4/Xbox? I noticed that all models have a different resistance on those axles but didn't think it mattered since this board would correct it and modify as needed.
Does adjusting the circularity make it so the shape is more circle than square? I just got a new controller with Hall Effect joysticks and the circularity test is showing the shape as a square rather than a circle and it's creating additional dead zone diagonally.
Correct, it fixes exactly this issue.
As others have said in a few other TH-cam videos.. you really can't just drop in hall effect analogues and call it a day.
Lots of people offer this on eBay and while it's much cheaper and easier for the installer it just doesn't work very well. You don't get the circularity back, and also the range and center point is off.
They fix the drift but introduce other issues.
This driver board fixes all of that.
@@miker13 I bought a controller from a company who now offers them and my circularity error is over 20% on both sticks. Tried adjusting the circularity output and all it did was make it so the sticks don't reach full potential to the full x and y axis. This company stated that it's because it's a RAW input and you can't change it. Been in a fight with them for almost two weeks and they refuse to take accountability
@@k0ntroversialgaming During installation the silicone isolation tube needs to be seated fully down against the plastic housing of the sensor. It must stay fully seated. Once the silicone is trimmed and the connecting wire is attached it really shouldn't move.
However, if it moves up during the install the centre pin of the sensor can come into contact with the main PCB and, well.. that defeats the purpose of driver board.
But here's a simple test to see if everything is seated correctly:
Try using the centre point adjustment mode to see if you can move the dot on the gamepad tester site.
You should be able to move it vertically & horizontally.
Try moving it waaay off centre, save it by clicking the analogue R3/L3 (depending on which one you're testing of course), and then do it again to re-centre it.
If the driver board isn't intercepting the X or Y axis signal correctly you'll probably notice that the dot will only move horizontally or vertically.. or maybe neither!
@@miker13 I've tried everything to calibrate the square shape of the circularity test and nothing works. The company is aware of the issue and they are even telling partners not to purchase the hall effect upgrade
@@k0ntroversialgaming Well... I know exactly what you're referring to.
The square shape appears immediately after installation but it's then corrected by the driver board during the calibration steps.
Did you try the test I mentioned in my previous comment? It sounds like the analogues are bypassing the driver board so it isn't doing its job.
I've installed so many of these I've lost count and they all work exactly like ViktorSTK's video.
I had the occasional issue when I first started offering this mod but now it takes me roughly 30 mins per stick and they work as expected every time.
can i use the boards with the orange modules? I had bought your boards, and bought the orange modules..
Do you have any tips on soldering the wire to the middle pins? I feel like i just burn the plastic
Hey man waths up? Is there any deadzone or delay on this hall effect sticks? Do you recomend replacing over the original sony sticks?
Dependendo do modelo ele tem um pouco de delay sim
Eu deixei um comentario marcado que mostra o problema
Tem um modelo mais novo que isso foi corrrigido, sugiro que na hora de comprar fale com o vendedor e pergunte se tem delay ou nao
@@VKsChannel vc é brasileiro mano? Como descobriu meu logo do canal entregou né kk mano o problema é que nem todo vendedor é honesto eles querem vender e pra piorar eles ficam lá do outro lado do mundo para devolver é uma dor de cabeça você tem algum link de confiança?
Is the one you linked "Orange Module ( With Calibration Holes )", the version 2 you were talking about? Thinking about ordering myself.
Does anyone sell replacement stick modules for dualsense edge pro controllers with hall effect installed & calibrated?
Hi! I do
@@minorthingswhere?
@@narutoblockhead3 I'm UK based
Does that mean that I won't be able to calibrate the joists that are outside the center if I don't place that black circuit? Is it 100% necessary or can it be calibrated without the need for that circuit? I enter the program on the PC you show, but it doesn't let me enter any of the a, b and s options 🤷♂️
Did they change the boards? The link goes to the stick but the boards look way differet
yeah they released an updated model
I put the analog on my ps4 controller and it stop working if I remove it starts to work again what do I do? Is it faulty?
A vid on the Jun Zeng modules in the Xbox elite series 2 controller would be great. Thnx
Installation should probably be the same as the series x controller
@@VKsChannelI don't think so because the elite series 2 has very different modules and a different board layout plus you would have to find different thumb sticks. A very different video.
@HastyRhombus760 uts similar enough. There's already videos that show this but take it from me, it is EXTREMELY difficult to desolder the elite sticks.
@@jackal1115 I have replaced about a dozen elite modules desoldering them is NOT hard if you use quality iron, solder, and flux, not the cheap Chinese crap. I want to make sure of the compatibility.
This looks like the only solution for controllers that lack proper calibration tools
Where did you get that small tube? Also, any specific wire I can buy for connecting the joystick module though the tube to the pcb? Your video is the best so far and I can do this. Is there a kit that comes with everything?
After v5 and v51 are installed on the Xbox Series X controller, can I normally update the controller firmware when available and calibrate it from within the Xbox Series X itself?
Why did those yellow hall effects cause a bug after calibration?
Hi. Is the calibration board only needed for the blue analog sticks or is needed for both, blue/orange?. Thanks in advance.
The boards are bundled with the sticks
The standalone modules are different and won't be compatible with the boards I think
Thank you for quick response. Do you have a good link to order these bad boys?. I have Xbox one controller.
Does the pcb board works with orange potentiometers? (Hall rock effect)?
Are thePS5 ginful/orange ones compatible with xbox controllers? I know that they make ones that are labeled for "Xbox", but I am really confused.
Also, any ideas where to buy these sticks for UK and Europe currently?
Jun Zheng isn't selling here currently, and other sellers such as VaalPaev, New Chip Store, and Gamer Zone Store seem to selling their driver/stick combinations but I don't know if they're of the same quality as Jun Zheng's. Its also not clear whether they come with the nicer spare sticks which Jun Zheng used to ship out.
I got mine from New Chip Store. I've done over a dozen with about a 60/40 split in regards to Dualsense/Xbox.
Perfectly happy with the analogue hall effect sticks. They look exactly like Jun Zengs in the video so I suspect they're the same 👍🏼
@@miker13 that's great to hear! Thanks for getting back. Might grab a few extras from New Chip Store. Kind of under-ordered with the original Jun Zheng products and wished I committed a bit more.
Another few questions if you don't mind, not sure if you'll have answers:
I take it New Chip Store doesn't come with the spare optional smoother stick boxes like Jun Zheng's?
Also how does this function with xbox elite controllers/upgraded controllers with their magnetic swappable thumbstick caps? Do the magnetic thumbstick caps cause significant disruption to the new hall sensors or the factory xbox hall triggers (especially on LT)?
@@naliboi93 I've not worked on an elite controller yet but I think Jun Zeng had some advice on this on his own TH-cam channel.
I wouldn't think the magnets in the stick caps would interfere with the hall effect function. The magnet for the sensor is located on the side of the stick, it's very small and it's in very, very close proximity to the sensor. At least I don't think it would be an issue but others might be able to confirm.
@@naliboi93 forgot so say I did get batch order that came with a choice of two sticks but every order since has just been K-Silvers. They've been fine for me and I've had no customer complaints.
I have a question... Was thinking about installing hall sticks for my xbox controllers but... As we all know, xbox controllers are using magnet triggers, and for the LT the sensor is under the left analog stick. Does pushing the left trigger cause any issues on the left stick? Like drifting or decalibrating the stick? Have you tested that? 😮
No it wont cause malfunction
@@VKsChannel thank you for quick reply! 🙂
@VK's Channel What does bad circularity mean/effect actually?
Does this board also work with the orange hall sticks?
Hey just wanted to say desolder pumps are cool in all but ripped pads from heat damage are not
Use low temp chip removal solder stuff is a life saver and will work on the sticks I've removed them with it myself and recommend this over all removal methods as it's the safest for the board and pads for the experience
Use solder wick to roughly absorb most of the original solder then let it cool down add some Flux and go to town with the low temp solder just hardly touching it after its melted in and then work the stick with a cloth padded screw driver spudger and best of all a wooden stick and they pop right out every time safe and sound
High temp solder temp solder removal tools are nice but if ur unexpierenced it could be an easy disaster so I hope this saved a few boards out there 🙏
Yeah low melt solder is the best if you're a beginner
Yeah, I think I might've cooked the board of my controller. Behaves weirdly since I've attempted to swap sticks. Each stick has an axis screwed as if they were shorted and wont respond to movement, but everything looks clean. Even completely removing the stick, I still get a reading. And if I touch the hole for the center pin of the potentiometer when its removed, the reading for the axis is corrected and goes to 0.... what? I'm not touching anything else, is by body acting as a ground? I'm lost ._.
First soldering attempt, not fun 😅
So solder wick, flux, low temp for desoldering, gotcha. But what about soldering the new stick in? I can't get the friggin' solder to bond to the pads unless I get it stupidly hot, it'll just form a bubble on the pin otherwise.
@benjaminschacht92 hey buddy sorry I'm late to this I would to you to take a meter and start "beep testing" around between each leg if I remember right or at least with bdm 30 the x axis outside pin and y axis rear pin are both connected to one another and I'm pretty is ground I can check here in a little while but you shouldn't have beeps between anything else and ground
Knowing the ball chips they use its ENTIRELY possible to have accidentally shorted something with a solderball that flew away
@@benjaminschacht92oh and also yeah new stick after you've cleaned the low temp stuff off you want to use regular 60/40 lead silver or if you're a stickler or in prison.... I mean California lead free
Low temp to remove always use Flux and ventilation
Leaded or not to re attached
The low temp stuff is great because most solder is 60/40 anyway and Is soluble in the stuff you just need Flux little extra carefulness cause it can get everywhere
@@Skhillz_FN I can get leaded solder, but it's still illegal to sell any electronics with lead where I am. But what are the odds of getting someone testing used stuff for lead? 1 to 10M probably, but I just jinxed it, so...
Thanks for the tips :)
wait so can you install the Orange sticks with Jun's board? or does it have to be the blue ones?
What gauge of wire would you use in the insulated tube? I dont have old fans around
basicly any small, enameled wire would work. Could probably get away with like 28 gauge silicone wire as well. AS long as it's insulated and small enough anything would work
Ordered mine in november 15, I'm waiting it arrives, but the gap in the DualSense shell is a new information for me, not mentioned in the seller description or in the reviews... Sad... I don't want to cut my battery older... However nice video thanks 👍
Were you able to do it?
Do I have to use the sticks and boards together? I'm asking because I bought Hall effect sticks from another manufacturer before I knew these were available. So I just bought the boards since I already had the sticks. I can't seem to get into calibration mode.
I believe yes, he only sells the pair anyway so when you buy the board you will get the sticks together with it
Did you buy from the correct seller? He only sells the board with the sticks
Can you show me where you bought only the board?
@@VKsChannel I contacted him and he sold me just the boards.
@VKsChannel so I got my sticks successfully installed and into calibration mode following your video. Props on the good video btw. Best tutorial out there that I've seen so far. Anyways I'm trying to understand how you over shoot because my circulation isn't reaching all the way around.
when calibrating the directions get the numbers under 1.00000, then move the stick ad slowly increase it to 1.00000, when you reach that number you can count 3 or 5 extra flicks, it won't display over 1.00000 but internally the sensor will be counting those flicks, after that press on the stick to save and repeat the same process to the other directions, just do exactly as I do in the video and you'll get it right, you may need to add more steps than mine, I added 3 but you can add 5 or 6 or 8 but it is the same procedure@@tylerlambert4541
Hey, great video! I tried replacing the joystick potentiometers on my PS5 controller and now it blinks orange three times, won’t turn on, and won’t appear on gamepad tester. Any thoughts on how to fix it or what could cause it? Hard reset button doesn’t fix it
Looks like you probably have damaged something on the motherboard 😔
2 or 3 blinking lights indicates either a short circuit or a damaged component
Is the calibration board out of stock?
link says unavailable in my region, shame
Hey
Can you calibrate the stick without the board? The jun Calibration Board link says that the item is not availible for my country (germany) but the sticks are availible
I wanted to use them on the xbox elite 2 controller. Do you have a link for a Board and Stick with calibration for germany that is working like the ones in the video?
I wonder if the Xbox mod would work on the Elite series 2.
You'd lose the adjustable stick tension but I think that's it, should work.
Hmm, the flexibility that it adds to the sticks (config center point, and range, etc.) is awesome to have. BUT.. There are some BUTTS..
How's the latency.. (of course, that question only applies to setups which would enable this to be a quantifiable metric.. as in, not on a console for ex. ) ?
I assume the jitter filtering (buffer and processing) alone would be the one factor that would make zero latency an impossibility to begin with.
I also do assume that these little PCA's would work perfectly fine on the standard/original pots, enabling you with all of the extra setup (although.. at the cost of the added latency!. )
Other than this, I find that the back case of the DualSense not properly sitting after the mod is unacceptable (maybe a newer revision on a Flex PCB would fix this in the future.. )
Maybe that newer revision could even come with a switch to turn the jitter filtering off (removing the added latency) in order to use with the original pots..
I don't think it has latency since its physically connected directly to the motherboard terminals
@@VKsChannel It's a pass-through device, being "connected directly to the motherboard" has nothing to do with the latency, but the way it works does.
It would have made no sense not.. being "connected directly to the motherboard"..
@@Costinmuscais there a way to measure the stick input latency after all the proper calibration?
@@vaultboy783 No, I don't know of any easy way of measuring the latency other than by subjective perception ("feel") But, if there is where you were getting at, no, there will be no difference between latency before and after calibration. The latency is just inherent to the processing of the signals from the 2 axis sensing elements.
@@CostinmuscaMicrocontrollers like the one used for this board are capable of doing processing in microseconds, as in one one thousandth of a millisecond. It's not going to add any human perceptible latency unless timer delays were added to slow it down on purpose.
Are they working for nacom revolution pads ?
@VKsChannel can you try to swap a dual sense edge stick module with a hall effect analog ?
I dont have the edge =/
U can calibrate dualse in same steps?
When are you going to do the new Gulikit joysticks?
Soon
Hi, I've just installed a pair of Gulikit's TMR joystick with this calibration board on a Dualsense Edge stick modules and they work with no issues
would this be possible on a scuf prestige controller? or is there any way for me to pay you to do it to my controller
I have a new dualsense purple color and I find that small gap so is it normal?
Was it easy desoldering with that pump?
Sometimes it is, sometimes not
It depends on the quality of the solder they used
If its a bad quality solder it gets very sticky and you have to use the pump multiple times
@@VKsChannel Oh ok, it looked easy in the video so I was planning on buying the same desoldering pump. Thanks for the reply
Where to get the calibration mode software?
I've done several successful installations on Dualsense controllers and have just tried my first Xbox controller today.
After connecting to the gamepad tester site both sticks are displaying as if they're stuck in the diagonal down/right position.
I'm using the newer v5/v5.1 driver boards for the right and left respectively.
It's tricky to see from the example in this video where my issue could be as the layout is different. Also the images on AliExpress seem to be missing a connection from the outer-pin also.
Does anyone have a link for a good schematic for the v5/v5.1 boards?
You can contact jun through his aliexpress store and he'll help you troubleshoot
@@VKsChannel thanks I'll give that a try.
I wasn't sure if it was worth going back to the AliExpress seller i bought it from as there are dozens of sellers.
I can see you've added a link in the description 👍🏼
Edit:
Figured it out. Assumed that one of the pads on the AliExpress diagram was missing a connection and added it myself.
Turns out the guide was right and I was wrong 😅
Awesome video but what the cost with time and effort vs just buying a new controller
Hi there!
I installed the hall effect on both of my controllers, just like u showed us
it ran smooth and perfectly!
Today however,
the left stick seemed to be stuck, it got "stuck" on left all the way.
Faulty hall effect I thought, so I replaced it
but still maximum left input signal, adjusting didn't work, resetting the controller does not work either...
That happened on both controllers.
Any idea why?
Cheers!
have you checked the connections? sometimes one of the wires that go into the tube could have disconnected and this is causing this issue
@@VKsChannelhad this happen to me today. Both boards probably took me around 4 hours to install. This are imo garbage and not worth the installation hassle.
Can you tell me please how to enter mode A For calibration to a ps 5 controller..I changed the joysticks to Hall effect and can not enter the calibration mode
It's the same for the xbox
Check the connection on the board there must be something wrong
@@VKsChannel ty for response...my mistake...I have hall effect joystick v2 but I did not put the boards you show on the video ..I.just put out the old joystick and replaced them with the new ones...maybe that is the reason why I can not enter to calibrate from there...maybe it need s physical calibration...which I already did but I wanted a 100% result
I got the equipment shown in the video for desoldering, it stopped working after 5 minutes x'D
Any tips for a soldering iron on the cheaper side? sub 500 eur
Probably it got jammed
Mine got "stuck" too but I had to open it and clear the compartment
Also are you sure you used it in the correct voltage?
You can always get a manual pump too there ate lots of models on aliexpress
@@VKsChannel There isn't much to get stuck anyhow, I've cleaned it thoroughly, it's just really poorly made. (Well, at least my version was, luckily got it refunded)
I'm in EU, so I got the EU one, not much room for error on my end.
Due to the heat required to melt the solder on the elite series (having a really bad soldering iron) I wasn't able to use a manual one (The solder would harden before I'd get a chance to suck the solder in)
Would you happen to know the diameter of the outside/inside of the insulating tube?
Why? it comes with the kit
What desoldering iron machine do you use ?
30 dollar
I have yet made it work for me… the board just reads 0 on the pins. I guess I'll need to for go the circularity for now. Just the hall effect sensors are pretty good on their own already
What's the gain of this over a calibration on the pc?
Nothing the calibration on pc didn't exist at the time of this video
It has become much better now
@@VKsChannel Great. I just ordered a set. Any that is quite a soldering challenge to accomplish
Thank you for the good vid. It looks a little tricky to install and more difficult to reinstall. I expect a product that is easier to install. Will ms and sony put hall sensors in the next generation of controllers? So far, it seems very negative.
The only version of this product that MIGHT be coming is the open source hall effect stick project from Marius Heier. His system is basically integrated into a pure replacement stick. But you'll still need to be able to desolder the stick from the board.
Microsoft and Sony at a BARE minimum need to make these joysticks a removable part. They should be attached with screws and ribbon cable rather than soldered down directly so they can be replaced.
But really they need to go away from this type of potentiometer entirely. It's a bad design. If nothing else the WIPER should be where the carbon film is placed, that way it could be replaced as a consumable part, even if the rest is soldered down. Or just go to hall sensors like they should have done a decade ago.
So many options yet both companies use the exact same shitty joystick. At least nintendo's joycons are easy to repair because the stick is replaceable.
So where can I send you one of my controllers to be upgraded and how much?😅😅
Could you put Hall effect sticks into a razer Wolverine?
Very Hardwork ❤
Boa noite, tudo bem?
Amigo, eu consigo calibrar o analógico do meu xbox xs com analógico sensor haus ou com os analógicos originais?
Consegue sim
How to calibrare circularity that yellow analog version?
The circularity is very bad
Does it have to have the PCB driver or would it work without it
It needs the pcb
@@VKsChannelcan you do it with ds5 edge module? For hall effect regular n with junzheng product?
Very nice video and informative - as the other ones on your channel. Big thank you!
Do think the Jun Module would work with a Nintendo Pro controller? I'm very curious about this option.
I asked jun and currently the modules don't fit on the pro controller, but he is developing an updated version that might be able to fit
Thank you for the info. Excited to see that option. :) Would be cool to see you testing them too!
Could only the Azul be installed without the correction plate?
Only the orange and some blue ones can be used without the correction board
It’s not letting me go into the mode so I can do the edges
ever find a solution?
@@rakoon1tf1 yeah I just spammed whatever mode I was tryna go while plugging the cord in the computer
Does the hall effect magnets get affected by the magnets on the thumbsticks on Xbox Elite controllers? Make that vid
No the normal xbox controller has magnets om the triggers too and it doesn't affect them
Para que entre en esos modos es necesario instalar ese kit de calibración?
yes you need the special boards
I like this expect the fact that you can mess them up if you accidentally turn them on while moving the stick
Yeah but you have to press the stick down to "save" settings
@@VKsChannelmost fps games where hall sticks are needed the most frequently use them.
I think i see what you mean if you noticed that the stick isn't working before you pressed it. Thanks for the video.
Can somebody point me to the app you're using to help debug the controller and also a guide on how to enter the different modes you're entering while debugging? Thank you
Gamepad tester
Its one of the first results in google
@@VKsChannelis there anywhere online that describes the methods for debugging the controller? I see in the video holding a specific button when turning it on for a specific way to program the new sticks.
Will this work for 3rd party? Like the Rainbow 2 pro?
what are the insulated tubes for?
Is just a guide pin
This is a step forward, but I don't think I'm willing to do something like this. I've soldered a few things and fuxed a few consoles, but I believe this is still too much for me.
Will this work for an xbox 360 controller?
Hey, Im doing the exactly same thing your are doing to calibrate the sticks. But its just not working for me. When I tilt the stick and plug it in nothing is happening. Its just as normal. Please help me
What controllet you are using?
@@VKsChannel dualsense ps5 Controller from rocket games
With Hall effect sticks
@@VKsChannel its also not working for my Astro c40 and ps4 controller
@@FlawlessMagmaHDYT it seems that something may have gone wrong on the installation, we had a similar problem on our discord community, I suggest that you try checking all connections with a multimeter
This looks way more complicated than I expected.
Good that this board is not needed anymore .
Correct on the stick the drift through the hole in the Poti abd then Center it through Software to full center
12:35 "(For X-box) That noise comes from the trigger bumping on the board below".
That seems like a deal breaker..
Easy fix, just shave the plastic a little bit on the trigger so it doesn't hit the board
Does the mod work with xbox one controller?
Hey so I noticed you’re big on the driver installs and everything. I have ran into many elite series 2 controllers that were putting Hall effect drivers on and had some questions regarding the install
Ask me on the Discord server
@@VKsChannel where can I find the discord server first time hearing about it lol
Can you try these on DualSense Edge stick modules?
I have on edge, but you need cut hole for pcb under the stick.
Bro why in xbox hall effect callbraion xbox work or no ?
what are the best hall effect sticks?
TMR most likely