Thank you so much for this video. From your analysis of both the good and bad flares I realized that even with correct preparation of the tube end I had a belling die that always resulted in an offset or out-of-round end. Another belling die with the proper prep produced the right results. Unfortunately, I will have to cut off and redo a bunch of flare ends and possibly replace two new wheel cylinders and a couple of brass Ts because I probably ruined the male flares trying to get these oval flares to seal. I also like that you showed that even with SS the initial tube height should be at the height gauge. My Imperial flaring tool suggested shorter heights for harder materials and I wasted my time trying to find an optimum of this and various amounts of bevel on the OD.
Nice job it’s about time somebody did a thorough video Thankyou for not rushing anything and just taking the time to explain the whole Process properly this was a total class act job on the video I hope you do many more THANKYOU
The best ever tutorial at least on this subject, you explained to the minutes and with dedication. Yes, S.S. is a beautiful metal, but hard to work it.
I’ve done enough flaring to know that this type of tool is not your best option, it slips and it’s difficult to use particularly on stainless.There is more modern better options than this, Eastwood makes a good tool that I use …Been there done that gain from my experience. Anyway, great show keep on rocking.
I’m not disagreeing that there are better ways to flare tubing, but think about what the average person entering the hobby is going to buy as a first time tool buyer. And the tool I’m using is ancient, older than me. If a tool that old can produce a decent reliable and safe flare on stainless, it should help anyone who is just starting out, so that’s the purpose of the video. Thanks for watching!
This tool and the cheap versions of it should be illegal. Capri makes a high tolerance DIN bubble and double flare tool that makes perfect flares every time without marring the tube. It costs just over $100.
@@TheGT350Garagethe problem is Harbor freight and Amazon sell look alike versions of this tool that will never make a proper flare. Also, this design is bad because it gouges up the end of the lines. They should not look like that. There is a better tool from Capri, costs twice as much but worth it and it does not need a vice nor does it put gouge marks in the end of the line.
That’s because you grandpa was smart… sure it’s not the absolute best lubricant, but it’s definitely the best for this exercise, BECAUSE you’re only flaring brake lines AND it’s not a foreign lubricant that you’ll have to make sure is cleaned off before using the parts
Great tips and thank you!! Guessing I had to much tubing sticking up out of the clamping device because the stem would snap off from the die every time. 🤦♂️ Tool was just a cheap one from the local auto parts store. Definitely going to try the reaming and filling next time
If the stem snaps off the arbor, it’s usually because the tubing isn’t straight or wasn’t reamed prior to the process. Reaming and filing the tube makes all the difference in the results.
Brother thank for sharing this video worked the first time. Only difference is I rented the oem from AutoZone. The other problem was I was in a tight spot with the crossover pipe on the rear of STS. I used a 1/4 impact to flare with. I know this is an old video but the best one.
THANKS!!! The Evercraft tool I bought at NAPA will not even hold the stainless tube tight enough to do a flare even when fully tight. I've tried to use the hole size smaller to get a better grip on it and also tighten it as tight as it will go and the tube still pushes through the tool. The tube ends up distorted and, of course, a smaller diameter, which would probably allow leaks. After about 15 attempts the flare is only 25% of what I want. I'll try to get my $22 back. THANKS AGAIN!
A $22 tool isn’t going to get the job done. A $40 tool (OTC brand) is a bare minimum these days, and the $100 OTC kit (truly a professional grade tool) is about on par with what I use. Most of these tools are nickel-chrome plated, that makes them far less effective at gripping the tubing you’re trying to flare, be it stainless, ni-cop, coated steel, or galvanized steel.
Very good video! Thank you. Is there a technique / tool would you suggest to do a proper double flare under the car, if you just need to cut and replace a rusted section of brake line.
i been trying to get this to work for a week. have followed all your steps, every time it's either out of round in the latitudinal or longitudinal direction or both. thinking of hitting it with the blue wrench before flaring.
Three possible reasons for what you’re seeing are: 1) there is an issue with the tool itself, not square, bent, or deformation in the mandrel 2) you’re setting the tubing too high, or 3) the tubing itself may be the issue, some tubing can have issues with concentric thickness variations and hardness issues.
Off the car, blow it out with some brake cleaner. In the car, a tap on the brake pedal will push them out and clear the line without using more than an .5-1.0 ounces of fluid. Don’t over think it and you’ll be fine.
Great video, thank you! I have no idea what I'm doing wrong but I've used two different flaring tools (identical style to the one you're using), and cannot keep the tube from slipping out when attempting the first push (inward). I'm using 3/8" copper-nickel which is supposed to be easier than stainless, but it slips out on me when using regular steel also. I've got the tube clamped as tight as it will get, filed the cut flat, deburred the hole, and chamfered/beveled the edge. I've gone slow, I've gone fast ... just keeps pushing out. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for a great video!
I would recommend an OTC 4503 at $35-40 as the minimum grade tool I would trust. It will do nicely for basic double flares. Use the bar to tighten the wing nuts, but don’t overdo it or you can break them. Probably the biggest issue I’ve had with flaring tools has been undersized tubing, followed closely by incorrectly annealed tubing that neither flares nor bends correctly. Beyond that, tools that are cheaply produced, especially if they are polisher and then nickel-chromium plated in the jaws, allow the tube to slip. If you have a wire wheel and can remove the plating, then use a piece of 120-180 grit sand paper on a flat surface and remove the plating from the faces of the tool where it mates and tighten up the tool .001-.002” , you can usually eliminate the slipping, but time is money and sometimes it makes more se she to use a better quality tool. TO that end, the OTC 6502 kit is nicer at about $100, and if you want the best, look at the RIGID 345DL, it’s $175-200, but the way it works solves the issue with tubes slipping. If this is a one and done project, it may not make sense to invest in a higher end tool though.
@@TheGT350Garage Thank you very much for taking the time to reply and offer help. Your thoughts on the coating being an issue are valid and something I hadn't considered. The copper-nickel lines I'm trying to flare do have a coating that comes off relatively easy. I'll definitely look into the tools you suggested; I'm just getting a little gun shy on that style. One of mine is a 40 year-old Craftsman, and the other is a 40 year-old Cal-Van. I'm considering one of the Eastwood knockoffs, but much like the point you made in one of your replies to another comment, I can't justify spending $170 on something I'll use once every 5 years. Appreciate the video and guidance. God bless.
Do not use a cheap tool on brake lines. This video should be ignored. A proper tool works without a vice and costs between $75-100 for the double flare or dual DIN bubble/double flare version. A proper brake line should not get gouged by a cheap clamp and line ends should look OEM. Capri makes one. I cannot believe the advice to use a cheap tool on brake lines.
@@truantray News Flash: It’s not the tool that’s the issue, it’s the user and the technique. This video is to demonstrate the process, and putting the tool in a vise is only for the demonstration. I’ve done thousands of flares on cars with a failure rate of zero in service. Have I had to remake a line or two? Absolutely but learning why has made it a long long time since I’ve had to do that. If you’d like to compare credentials and experience, I’ll be happy to go toe to toe with you, the want you act shows you don’t have the skills you think you do and you need the tool to do the thinking for you because you’re lacking the knowledge to use just any tool.
How are you supposed to do this on a cars hardlines if you have to use a vice? Ive seen others do it on the car but open to suggestions, but I cannot replace the entire brake line.
The key is his tool is older than he is - manufactured with tolerances you can't buy today.... you too can flare perfectly if you can find an antique tool as well.
So, traditional de-burring tools will chamfer the inner or outer diameters and don’t correct the cut perpendicular to the tubing. This ends up leaving you with inconsistencies in the thickness of the double flare and potentially causes sealing issues. The way it’s shown in this video, every flare you make will be the same, and every flare will seal.
@@TheGT350Garage I assumed the cut with the tool would be perpendicular lol never crossed my mind would be crooked lol think will do this way. But have to put in a vice to file down straight, don't have one lol 😆😆😆
What angle is the flare? I have the same setup but it's for 45 Degrees. I thought SS needs 37 degrees. Does it matter for brakes? I have a leaky fitting at the tee junction for my ss lines on the front, lapping and with a copper gasket it still leaks, I was considering reflaring but all of the ss flares are single 37 degrees on the car, the tee is 45 degrees should it work?
They’re all 45° flares. The male flares in the master, wheel cyl. etc. are all 45° regardless of line material. Putting a 37 on a 45 is a recipe for leaks.
Thank you. It's interesting that many you tubers and venders go on about 37 degree fo ss brake lines, and yet the brass tee is 45 degrees, confusing.I'll double flare at 45 degrees, saves me time and money, again thank you.@@TheGT350Garage
Only issue using a drill bit is you sacrifice the material thickness at the cut by creating an internal chamfer. The flat file leaves you with the full material thickness and gives a more robust flare.
I liked your video except for the fact you didn’t use a little brake fluid to lube it to get a cleaner flare and for the people with the cheap flaring kit it won’t last very long before it’s trash but too each his own.
This cheap tool is over 50 years old, and it’s been used without lube thousands of times. As you say, to each his own, or as an old friend of mine would say “we’re not building a fking piano here”.
It's almost impossible to double flare 409 stainless especially if it's a repair of a factory line that's still on the vehicle. There are also much better flaring tools than the one in this video.
Unless you’re dealing with some oddball OE line, 409 is not used for brake likes, exhaust pipes yes, but not brake line. Stainless steel brake lines are Typically 304 or 316 stainless. And if the “worst” style tool by popular opinion can make the flare, it’s not a tool issue but an operator issue.
You are the first person who taught me to flare the correct way. I have tried many times before and could not make a clean flare.
Another awesome video. I wish I had seen this 4 years ago. Keep it up Walter
Nice photography and well explained. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. From your analysis of both the good and bad flares I realized that even with correct preparation of the tube end I had a belling die that always resulted in an offset or out-of-round end. Another belling die with the proper prep produced the right results. Unfortunately, I will have to cut off and redo a bunch of flare ends and possibly replace two new wheel cylinders and a couple of brass Ts because I probably ruined the male flares trying to get these oval flares to seal. I also like that you showed that even with SS the initial tube height should be at the height gauge. My Imperial flaring tool suggested shorter heights for harder materials and I wasted my time trying to find an optimum of this and various amounts of bevel on the OD.
Nice job it’s about time somebody did a thorough video Thankyou for not rushing anything and just taking the time to explain the whole
Process properly this was a total class act job on the video I hope you do many more THANKYOU
The best presentation that i love . Thank you so much !
excellent video!
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Very useful video. Thanks bro!
The best ever tutorial at least on this subject, you explained to the minutes and with dedication. Yes, S.S. is a beautiful metal, but hard to work it.
I’ve done enough flaring to know that this type of tool is not your best option, it slips and it’s difficult to use particularly on stainless.There is more modern better options than this, Eastwood makes a good tool that I use …Been there done that gain from my experience. Anyway, great show keep on rocking.
I’m not disagreeing that there are better ways to flare tubing, but think about what the average person entering the hobby is going to buy as a first time tool buyer. And the tool I’m using is ancient, older than me. If a tool that old can produce a decent reliable and safe flare on stainless, it should help anyone who is just starting out, so that’s the purpose of the video. Thanks for watching!
This tool and the cheap versions of it should be illegal. Capri makes a high tolerance DIN bubble and double flare tool that makes perfect flares every time without marring the tube. It costs just over $100.
@@TheGT350Garagethe problem is Harbor freight and Amazon sell look alike versions of this tool that will never make a proper flare. Also, this design is bad because it gouges up the end of the lines. They should not look like that. There is a better tool from Capri, costs twice as much but worth it and it does not need a vice nor does it put gouge marks in the end of the line.
You need to calm down and learn some skills.
This was extremely helpful!! Thank you!
this is the first time I've seen recommending filing flat. I'm going to try it tonight but this seems like it's going to fix my issues.
I have always put a drop of brake fluid on the end of the tubing. not sure its necessary, but thats how my gramps taught me.
Brake fluid itself is not the best choice for a lubricant.
That’s because you grandpa was smart… sure it’s not the absolute best lubricant, but it’s definitely the best for this exercise, BECAUSE you’re only flaring brake lines AND it’s not a foreign lubricant that you’ll have to make sure is cleaned off before using the parts
Great tips and thank you!! Guessing I had to much tubing sticking up out of the clamping device because the stem would snap off from the die every time. 🤦♂️ Tool was just a cheap one from the local auto parts store.
Definitely going to try the reaming and filling next time
If the stem snaps off the arbor, it’s usually because the tubing isn’t straight or wasn’t reamed prior to the process. Reaming and filing the tube makes all the difference in the results.
Although I doubt I will ever do this I enjoyed watching your skill at this!
Great tips, thank you
Brother thank for sharing this video worked the first time. Only difference is I rented the oem from AutoZone. The other problem was I was in a tight spot with the crossover pipe on the rear of STS. I used a 1/4 impact to flare with. I know this is an old video but the best one.
THANKS!!! The Evercraft tool I bought at NAPA will not even hold the stainless tube tight enough to do a flare even when fully tight. I've tried to use the hole size smaller to get a better grip on it and also tighten it as tight as it will go and the tube still pushes through the tool. The tube ends up distorted and, of course, a smaller diameter, which would probably allow leaks. After about 15 attempts the flare is only 25% of what I want. I'll try to get my $22 back. THANKS AGAIN!
I know the exact tool from Napa. And I also was just as disappointed. I wasn't even using stainless. The tool probably works on copper only.
A $22 tool isn’t going to get the job done. A $40 tool (OTC brand) is a bare minimum these days, and the $100 OTC kit (truly a professional grade tool) is about on par with what I use. Most of these tools are nickel-chrome plated, that makes them far less effective at gripping the tubing you’re trying to flare, be it stainless, ni-cop, coated steel, or galvanized steel.
Very good video! Thank you. Is there a technique / tool would you suggest to do a proper double flare under the car, if you just need to cut and replace a rusted section of brake line.
Eastwood and Earl’s sell a very similar tool that works well under the car, but like anything, the preparation is key.
i been trying to get this to work for a week. have followed all your steps, every time it's either out of round in the latitudinal or longitudinal direction or both. thinking of hitting it with the blue wrench before flaring.
Three possible reasons for what you’re seeing are: 1) there is an issue with the tool itself, not square, bent, or deformation in the mandrel 2) you’re setting the tubing too high, or 3) the tubing itself may be the issue, some tubing can have issues with concentric thickness variations and hardness issues.
What about the metal shavings from filing that can fall into the pipe?
Off the car, blow it out with some brake cleaner. In the car, a tap on the brake pedal will push them out and clear the line without using more than an .5-1.0 ounces of fluid. Don’t over think it and you’ll be fine.
Great video, thank you! I have no idea what I'm doing wrong but I've used two different flaring tools (identical style to the one you're using), and cannot keep the tube from slipping out when attempting the first push (inward). I'm using 3/8" copper-nickel which is supposed to be easier than stainless, but it slips out on me when using regular steel also. I've got the tube clamped as tight as it will get, filed the cut flat, deburred the hole, and chamfered/beveled the edge. I've gone slow, I've gone fast ... just keeps pushing out. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for a great video!
I would recommend an OTC 4503 at $35-40 as the minimum grade tool I would trust. It will do nicely for basic double flares. Use the bar to tighten the wing nuts, but don’t overdo it or you can break them.
Probably the biggest issue I’ve had with flaring tools has been undersized tubing, followed closely by incorrectly annealed tubing that neither flares nor bends correctly. Beyond that, tools that are cheaply produced, especially if they are polisher and then nickel-chromium plated in the jaws, allow the tube to slip. If you have a wire wheel and can remove the plating, then use a piece of 120-180 grit sand paper on a flat surface and remove the plating from the faces of the tool where it mates and tighten up the tool .001-.002” , you can usually eliminate the slipping, but time is money and sometimes it makes more se she to use a better quality tool.
TO that end, the OTC 6502 kit is nicer at about $100, and if you want the best, look at the RIGID 345DL, it’s $175-200, but the way it works solves the issue with tubes slipping. If this is a one and done project, it may not make sense to invest in a higher end tool though.
@@TheGT350Garage Thank you very much for taking the time to reply and offer help. Your thoughts on the coating being an issue are valid and something I hadn't considered. The copper-nickel lines I'm trying to flare do have a coating that comes off relatively easy.
I'll definitely look into the tools you suggested; I'm just getting a little gun shy on that style. One of mine is a 40 year-old Craftsman, and the other is a 40 year-old Cal-Van. I'm considering one of the Eastwood knockoffs, but much like the point you made in one of your replies to another comment, I can't justify spending $170 on something I'll use once every 5 years.
Appreciate the video and guidance. God bless.
Do not use a cheap tool on brake lines. This video should be ignored. A proper tool works without a vice and costs between $75-100 for the double flare or dual DIN bubble/double flare version. A proper brake line should not get gouged by a cheap clamp and line ends should look OEM. Capri makes one.
I cannot believe the advice to use a cheap tool on brake lines.
@@bklab88search Capri tool.
@@truantray News Flash: It’s not the tool that’s the issue, it’s the user and the technique. This video is to demonstrate the process, and putting the tool in a vise is only for the demonstration. I’ve done thousands of flares on cars with a failure rate of zero in service. Have I had to remake a line or two? Absolutely but learning why has made it a long long time since I’ve had to do that. If you’d like to compare credentials and experience, I’ll be happy to go toe to toe with you, the want you act shows you don’t have the skills you think you do and you need the tool to do the thinking for you because you’re lacking the knowledge to use just any tool.
How are you supposed to do this on a cars hardlines if you have to use a vice? Ive seen others do it on the car but open to suggestions, but I cannot replace the entire brake line.
It can be done on the car, but an on-car flaring tool will make the job much easier.
The key is his tool is older than he is - manufactured with tolerances you can't buy today.... you too can flare perfectly if you can find an antique tool as well.
I use OTC’s version of this tool teaching brakes at work. otctools.com/products/master-brake-flaring-tool-kit
Could also use deburring tool if it can go in such a small hole? Otherwise excellent video nice compare end result with and without de-burring
So, traditional de-burring tools will chamfer the inner or outer diameters and don’t correct the cut perpendicular to the tubing. This ends up leaving you with inconsistencies in the thickness of the double flare and potentially causes sealing issues. The way it’s shown in this video, every flare you make will be the same, and every flare will seal.
@@TheGT350Garage I assumed the cut with the tool would be perpendicular lol never crossed my mind would be crooked lol think will do this way. But have to put in a vice to file down straight, don't have one lol 😆😆😆
@squidben5780 a vise is helpful but not mandatory. The tubing cutter cuts a V into the tubing leaving it conical.
What angle is the flare? I have the same setup but it's for 45 Degrees. I thought SS needs 37 degrees. Does it matter for brakes? I have a leaky fitting at the tee junction for my ss lines on the front, lapping and with a copper gasket it still leaks, I was considering reflaring but all of the ss flares are single 37 degrees on the car, the tee is 45 degrees should it work?
They’re all 45° flares. The male flares in the master, wheel cyl. etc. are all 45° regardless of line material. Putting a 37 on a 45 is a recipe for leaks.
Thank you. It's interesting that many you tubers and venders go on about 37 degree fo ss brake lines, and yet the brass tee is 45 degrees, confusing.I'll double flare at 45 degrees, saves me time and money, again thank you.@@TheGT350Garage
Filing just put metal filing into your brake system.
If you don’t flush your lines before you install them, then yes. Flush your lines.
Lol no he didn't dumb ads. Clearly you have no idea wtf you're doing
I use a drill bit🤔
Only issue using a drill bit is you sacrifice the material thickness at the cut by creating an internal chamfer. The flat file leaves you with the full material thickness and gives a more robust flare.
I don’t have a vice 😕
The vice isn’t entirely necessary, it makes it easier but you can toss an adjustable wrench on it for leverage and still get the same results.
@@TheGT350Garage oh great Tip thanks man I’ll do that!
I liked your video except for the fact you didn’t use a little brake fluid to lube it to get a cleaner flare and for the people with the cheap flaring kit it won’t last very long before it’s trash but too each his own.
This cheap tool is over 50 years old, and it’s been used without lube thousands of times. As you say, to each his own, or as an old friend of mine would say “we’re not building a fking piano here”.
My friend used to say who’s f__king this dog you are me. lol
I found these tools are terrible. Just bought a capri tool it’s brilliant. Perfect flares every time
As demonstrated, it’s not the tool, it’s usually the technique. Glad you’re happy with your flaring tool choice.
It's almost impossible to double flare 409 stainless especially if it's a repair of a factory line that's still on the vehicle. There are also much better flaring tools than the one in this video.
Unless you’re dealing with some oddball OE line, 409 is not used for brake likes, exhaust pipes yes, but not brake line. Stainless steel brake lines are Typically 304 or 316 stainless. And if the “worst” style tool by popular opinion can make the flare, it’s not a tool issue but an operator issue.
Sure takes you a long time to get to the process talking about your Vise and bench and lines and stuff just get to the point teach a guy quit babbling
Thanks for the completely useless comment.