The world is a better place with Tim. I get so tired of guys I work with sometimes. I say yeah fast too! Meaning their quality of work is shit but it was super fast! Even faster on the second round when it comes back on rework and it leaking for fucked up bc they overlooked something. But hey it was fast! I have really grown to appreciate anything that someone has put some professional level work into and is nice. Maybe something small but I can still appreciate that. I have a little mechanical OCD. It has its ups and downs but generally is a good thing. Anyways get out there and flare that ass. God bless.
And I am not shitting on anyone. I know there are lots of clapped out piles of shit that haul ass and run well. I am just saying it’s nice to see some badass workmanship every now and then.
Great video however you can double flare stainless tubing. I do it with 3/16SS tubing for ordinary automotive brake lines. I use the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. I havent had one flare split yet. Works great!
Tim, 2 things not discussed. First, AN and JIC 37 degree flare vs 45 degree flare. Second, tube wall thickness. I know stainless steel line can be obtained with 2 different wall thicknesses. I prefer the thinner. I purchased the flaring kit from Eastwood. I do not like Eastwood as they are mostly China rehash items. The flare kit does a nice job and is very easy to use. I may be incorrect but, I think it will do a double flare on stainless. Don't take my word on this though. Good video as usual. Thank you.
Yes here I have been double flaring everything only to watch a video and find out it is impossible! Using the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool and it completely rocks. Seriously though I am glad to learn double flaring is unnecessary, though I echo the wall thickness comment; not sure if only the thick walled stuff will work with single flare or if you can do it with thinner walled tubing also. I'm sure the pros know what to buy but when you have never flared anything and you are trying to figure out what to buy and how thick is too thick, knowing the wall thickness that the pros use would be a great help. Thanks very much for the tutorial video.
Yeah, you might be able to help me... Can I get a job with you guys!?!?!? Had to give you a hard time. Every video has been a huge help for my car. Thanks Tim. There is an 02 Camaro for sale in my town that is one of your builds.. really bad ass, but far out of my price range.. hope you all are healthy and being safe.
lots of good information here. one thing you forgot to mention is the difference in flare angles between the sae flare at 45 degrees and the jic/an flare at 37 degrees. don't mix up your fittings. also i recently used a hand held hyd tube flare tool that worked really well.
@@demon1891 wendell i have a couple of 37 degree tools one is a weathehead and the other is a parker. both are heavy duty tools stainless is a bugger to flare. thats why most of the guys i know have gone to useing cupro nickel tubing . its real easy to work with and it looks good. a friend of mine recently bought a hyd flare tool from east wood and it will spoil you. its pricy but if you do a lot of work with tubing its worth it. i have had my tools over 30 yrs. so i dont even know if they are still available and i doubt if any of the Chinese imports are worth wasting your money on.best of luck
@@larrysperling8801 ooh that newfangled copper nickel stuff was a joy to work with. I really went out of my way to duplicate every bend and loop in my old original rotted lines and had a great time doing it. Whens the last time that woulda been any fun with normal tubing ?
Love this line it's all we use. A tip for getting them straight. Several companies make rollers you stick the end of the line off the roll into it and pull it through the hand held roller tool and comes out perfectly straight no hand bending needed.
Carful you get quality line. I’ve used some ss line that had a slight seam on the inside and could not get it to seal no matter what I tried. Great video.
Mine had a slight internal seam. I made a 37 degree tool shaped like a male fitting with no threads. Chucked it in a drill & applied some valve lapping compound. This ground the seam flat.
Great presentation Tim. As always patience with attention to cleanliness and detail will guarantee best possible chance for excellent work! I appreciate your work ethic and professionalism!
Great video Tim. Would you please do a video showing how you run the lines through the chassis? What tube adapters you use to create the transition into and out of the chassis tubing and how you feed the brake lines through them to the master cylinders? Thank you. Mike
One thing stated was incorrect. You CAN use aluminum tube nuts and sleeves. One of the most prominent racing plumbing companies in the world (BMRS) assembles and recommends aluminum on there stainless lines for the ultimate in weight savings. I've been using this combo in a much more demanding application than drag racing for well over 10yrs with no issues. No disrespect to Mr. McAmis, he builds world class race cars.
I’ve seen -3 aluminum fittings used on brake lines. I’ve seen the aluminum flare nut on a hose end split down the center. I’ve seen an aluminum adapter (pipe to AN) screwed into a brake caliper snap clean off. this is on road race cars. If it’s line to line, with good support on each side, it would probably be ok.
Tim, you videos are awesome and so helpful for a DIY chassis builder. I'm on my second full chassis build and love listening you everyone of your videos. They are very helpful. I would like to stop by your shop one day to check it out. Thanks, Ray
I’m doing something similar but for a food plant, from lubing container to the bearings, my concern is how do bend it nice an neat, you measure it then bend it or what? I will be doing this at work and im lost
Tim thanks again for the video the knowledge that you share is greatly appreciated..i may never be able to afford a real fast race car but what you share with your video's is greatly appreciated...thank you for all the tips and tricks that you share in your video's
Good information here, I wish I had one of the better die's to do this with. Mine works for Nicopp and soft steal line but for the stainless lines you need the good benders and dies. Remember that the final part of the flaring is done when you tighten them up to form the final flare against the fitting which means you need to get them good and tight or they will leak.
Tim do you sell a clamp for brake lines for the cromoly tubing without making hole or welding? I don’t want too weld or make holes on the cromoly chasis
Yes, the stainless tubing will start to split when you try to double flange, but I saw a guy make a beautiful double flange on stainless by first heating the tube to a red glow and then mount the tube in his flange tool.
Why not use swageloc fittings? Very user friendly and the tubing comes in 20 foot lengths. Each connector acts as a swivel connector as well. Used extensively in oil/ gas plants and food processing. A little pricey but no need to mess with the flaring tools.
I have been fighting my butt off trying to do one double flare on a 1/4" coated steel brake line...I have tried a cheaper flare tool and an expensive inline flare tool. I couldn't even get either flare tool to even start flaring the line. the inline tool it literally just ripped the die housing rite out of its threads so as i was tightening the die nut, the coupling that screws down on the two die block halves, just pulled off slowly as it wrenched it. I am at a lost, this 1/4 line is hard as heck. its a front brake line on a 2007 silverado 2500HD. Not sure if you understand my rambling but any ideas or thoughts would be great.
This is fantastic information! I hope to put this towards good use. Do you know any resources out there to start understanding how to learn to design suspension, such as what springs, dampers, wishbones and more to use, and in what position? From what I understand, running gear such as suspension/wheel hubs are the foundation for a successful racecar. Longer wheelbase is more stable, but shorter is more nimble. I would love to see your thoughts on this topic, or at the very least get pointed in the right direction.
Another great video! Tell me Tim, what is your opinion on skipping hard lines entirely and simply plumbing the entire brake/fire suppression system with AN-3/AN-4 stainless braid covered Teflon hose? I know the common logic is that doing this leads to a softer brake pedal, because in theory the braided Teflon hose expands a bit more than the hard lines. But I have seen VERY high end racing cars....like cars from the German DTM series....that have the brakes plumbed entirely with Teflon braided stainless hose. I have also driven cars plumbed this way, and the brake pedal felt like stepping on concrete. It is also vastly simpler to install and repair than hard lines, and is (arguably) less prone to damage...since it is more flexible....it is unlikely to dent or fracture. I realize it would weigh a bit more and probably be more expensive than hard lines, but other than that, do you see a downside?
Hey Tim, I thought the DOT regulation was double flare all brake lines ??? I'm trying to do doubles with stainless line and it's cracking everytime,. It's bubble flaring good though
What is the part number for the Imperial Eastman stainless lines flaring kit in your video. Amazon is redirecting the search and not giving the one you have there.
Professor McAmis: you should give serious consideration to opening up a school of advanced auto technology. People would pay top-dollar for that opportunity.
Never directly mix steel and stainless steel in a product that will be exposed to the elements. Stainless steel is much higher on the nobility scale than carbon steel. use a transition metal like brass.
When you run inside the tube chassis, is the line just floating in there and potentially rubbing or clanking inside the tubes?
The world is a better place with Tim. I get so tired of guys I work with sometimes. I say yeah fast too! Meaning their quality of work is shit but it was super fast! Even faster on the second round when it comes back on rework and it leaking for fucked up bc they overlooked something. But hey it was fast! I have really grown to appreciate anything that someone has put some professional level work into and is nice. Maybe something small but I can still appreciate that. I have a little mechanical OCD. It has its ups and downs but generally is a good thing. Anyways get out there and flare that ass. God bless.
And I am not shitting on anyone. I know there are lots of clapped out piles of shit that haul ass and run well. I am just saying it’s nice to see some badass workmanship every now and then.
Haha I always say : yeah you might be fast, fella, but does the wife appreciate that ?
I think not!
Slow down a little.
Second to last sentence is cuh-razy....
Tim you are the Yoda of drag car building. Thanks
Looks aren't everything.
11:05 Always surprises the hell out of me when Tim curses!
Great video however you can double flare stainless tubing. I do it with 3/16SS tubing for ordinary automotive brake lines. I use the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. I havent had one flare split yet. Works great!
I have that same tool but I am having some issues flaring 3/16 stainless. What tips do you have?
Tim, 2 things not discussed. First, AN and JIC 37 degree flare vs 45 degree flare. Second, tube wall thickness. I know stainless steel line can be obtained with 2 different wall thicknesses. I prefer the thinner. I purchased the flaring kit from Eastwood. I do not like Eastwood as they are mostly China rehash items. The flare kit does a nice job and is very easy to use. I may be incorrect but, I think it will do a double flare on stainless. Don't take my word on this though. Good video as usual. Thank you.
Paul Straney: The Eastwood flaring tool will double flare stainless tubing. I double flared all the stainless tubing for my Barracuda with it.
Yes here I have been double flaring everything only to watch a video and find out it is impossible! Using the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool and it completely rocks. Seriously though I am glad to learn double flaring is unnecessary, though I echo the wall thickness comment; not sure if only the thick walled stuff will work with single flare or if you can do it with thinner walled tubing also. I'm sure the pros know what to buy but when you have never flared anything and you are trying to figure out what to buy and how thick is too thick, knowing the wall thickness that the pros use would be a great help. Thanks very much for the tutorial video.
My Imperial Eastman kit is so old it is in a metal case!! Still flares like when it was new
Tim, nice video. Thanks for sharing your time. Would have loved seeing you do a flare.
That light was blinding me can't believe you power thru that brake line tutorial like that.
I thought he was sitting in front of the sun.
Tim, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. The tricks and tips should keep me out of trouble when I do this.
Yeah, you might be able to help me... Can I get a job with you guys!?!?!? Had to give you a hard time. Every video has been a huge help for my car. Thanks Tim. There is an 02 Camaro for sale in my town that is one of your builds.. really bad ass, but far out of my price range.. hope you all are healthy and being safe.
Great information.. thank you for your time to educate
Eastwood has a great coil straightening tool.
lots of good information here. one thing you forgot to mention is the difference in flare angles between the sae flare at 45 degrees and the jic/an flare at 37 degrees. don't mix up your fittings. also i recently used a hand held hyd tube flare tool that worked really well.
What flare tool did you use?
@@demon1891 brake lines and hyd lines use the 37 degree flare.
@@larrysperling8801 thanks but what flare tool do you use to make the flare? I'm using ss 3/16 for brakes and the tool I have sucks
@@demon1891 wendell i have a couple of 37 degree tools one is a weathehead and the other is a parker. both are heavy duty tools stainless is a bugger to flare. thats why most of the guys i know have gone to useing cupro nickel tubing . its real easy to work with and it looks good. a friend of mine recently bought a hyd flare tool from east wood and it will spoil you. its pricy but if you do a lot of work with tubing its worth it. i have had my tools over 30 yrs. so i dont even know if they are still available and i doubt if any of the Chinese imports are worth wasting your money on.best of luck
@@larrysperling8801 ooh that newfangled copper nickel stuff was a joy to work with.
I really went out of my way to duplicate every bend and loop in my old original rotted lines and had a great time doing it.
Whens the last time that woulda been any fun with normal tubing ?
Very nice. Thank you Tim. Those look like good flaring kits.
Love this line it's all we use. A tip for getting them straight. Several companies make rollers you stick the end of the line off the roll into it and pull it through the hand held roller tool and comes out perfectly straight no hand bending needed.
Carful you get quality line. I’ve used some ss line that had a slight seam on the inside and could not get it to seal no matter what I tried. Great video.
Mine had a slight internal seam. I made a 37 degree tool shaped like a male fitting with no threads. Chucked it in a drill & applied some valve lapping compound. This ground the seam flat.
Great presentation Tim. As always patience with attention to cleanliness and detail will guarantee best possible chance for excellent work! I appreciate your work ethic and professionalism!
Any part numbers or links for the flaring kits you show in the video?
Go with the eastwood flaring tool for 37° theyre amazing
Great video Tim. Would you please do a video showing how you run the lines through the chassis? What tube adapters you use to create the transition into and out of the chassis tubing and how you feed the brake lines through them to the master cylinders?
Thank you.
Mike
Thank you Tim! This was a great watch!
One thing stated was incorrect. You CAN use aluminum tube nuts and sleeves. One of the most prominent racing plumbing companies in the world (BMRS) assembles and recommends aluminum on there stainless lines for the ultimate in weight savings. I've been using this combo in a much more demanding application than drag racing for well over 10yrs with no issues. No disrespect to Mr. McAmis, he builds world class race cars.
I’ve seen -3 aluminum fittings used on brake lines. I’ve seen the aluminum flare nut on a hose end split down the center. I’ve seen an aluminum adapter (pipe to AN) screwed into a brake caliper snap clean off. this is on road race cars. If it’s line to line, with good support on each side, it would probably be ok.
Tim, you videos are awesome and so helpful for a DIY chassis builder. I'm on my second full chassis build and love listening you everyone of your videos. They are very helpful. I would like to stop by your shop one day to check it out. Thanks, Ray
What are your thoughts on using an fittings on brake lines
I’m doing something similar but for a food plant, from lubing container to the bearings, my concern is how do bend it nice an neat, you measure it then bend it or what? I will be doing this at work and im lost
I cant find anything for an online search for that Imperial Eastman tool kit. Do you have a kit number?
Tim thanks again for the video the knowledge that you share is greatly appreciated..i may never be able to afford a real fast race car but what you share with your video's is greatly appreciated...thank you for all the tips and tricks that you share in your video's
Good information here, I wish I had one of the better die's to do this with. Mine works for Nicopp and soft steal line but for the stainless lines you need the good benders and dies. Remember that the final part of the flaring is done when you tighten them up to form the final flare against the fitting which means you need to get them good and tight or they will leak.
Great information thanks for sharing 👍
What fuel line is best to run from my rear fuel cell to the 2x4 tunnel ram and carbs on my pro-street car?
Tim do you sell a clamp for brake lines for the cromoly tubing without making hole or welding? I don’t want too weld or make holes on the cromoly chasis
Yes, the stainless tubing will start to split when you try to double flange, but I saw a guy make a beautiful double flange on stainless by first heating the tube to a red glow and then mount the tube in his flange tool.
Great info, thank you for uploading this!
It would be great if you would do a video on the flex lines in your kit you sell and where they can and can't be used? Thanks for all the great videos
Could you give us a part number on the good fire tool set?f
SKU:TMR-1164K
Hey there Tim McAmis, do you guys still sell this imperial eastman flaring tool kit? I didnt see it on your website?
Tell Tim these are some best video ive seem them!!
So for my street car hot rod i want to use stainless steel tubing for the brake liness, so do i single or double flare the ends?
Why not use swageloc fittings? Very user friendly and the tubing comes in 20 foot lengths. Each connector acts as a swivel connector as well. Used extensively in oil/ gas plants and food processing. A little pricey but no need to mess with the flaring tools.
any sort of compression type fitting is a big no-no in a braking system
Swagelock isnt meant for the high pressure hydraulics.
When a swagelok fitting is used correctly, the stainless line will burst before the fitting lets go. Best fittings around.
I have been fighting my butt off trying to do one double flare on a 1/4" coated steel brake line...I have tried a cheaper flare tool and an expensive inline flare tool. I couldn't even get either flare tool to even start flaring the line. the inline tool it literally just ripped the die housing rite out of its threads so as i was tightening the die nut, the coupling that screws down on the two die block halves, just pulled off slowly as it wrenched it. I am at a lost, this 1/4 line is hard as heck. its a front brake line on a 2007 silverado 2500HD. Not sure if you understand my rambling but any ideas or thoughts would be great.
Get this flare tool i use it on stainless on automotive applications www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B01NCYKQSN
23👍's up Tim thanks again for taking us all along with you for the great show
Can 1/4 lines be used for brake lines?
This is fantastic information! I hope to put this towards good use.
Do you know any resources out there to start understanding how to learn to design suspension, such as what springs, dampers, wishbones and more to use, and in what position? From what I understand, running gear such as suspension/wheel hubs are the foundation for a successful racecar. Longer wheelbase is more stable, but shorter is more nimble.
I would love to see your thoughts on this topic, or at the very least get pointed in the right direction.
Check out our library of videos. We have some on many of these topics.
I didn't see a residual valve, at what point would you use a residual valve on a braking system and if so which psi valve? Thanks
Another great video! Tell me Tim, what is your opinion on skipping hard lines entirely and simply plumbing the entire brake/fire suppression system with AN-3/AN-4 stainless braid covered Teflon hose? I know the common logic is that doing this leads to a softer brake pedal, because in theory the braided Teflon hose expands a bit more than the hard lines. But I have seen VERY high end racing cars....like cars from the German DTM series....that have the brakes plumbed entirely with Teflon braided stainless hose. I have also driven cars plumbed this way, and the brake pedal felt like stepping on concrete. It is also vastly simpler to install and repair than hard lines, and is (arguably) less prone to damage...since it is more flexible....it is unlikely to dent or fracture.
I realize it would weigh a bit more and probably be more expensive than hard lines, but other than that, do you see a downside?
Best part was "you can buy this online maybe Amazon or some shit" lol
Hey Tim, I thought the DOT regulation was double flare all brake lines ??? I'm trying to do doubles with stainless line and it's cracking everytime,. It's bubble flaring good though
I double flare stainless no problem. I use the mastercool hydraulic flare tool. Haven't had one flare crack yet.
Many tube cutters have a blade that countersinks the tube end after you make the cut.
What is the part number for the Imperial Eastman stainless lines flaring kit in your video. Amazon is redirecting the search and not giving the one you have there.
Another good one.
Dont kill yourself with stainless lines. Use Nycop and ALWAYS remember to double flare your ends
The instructions on the imperial kit specifically states not to use a tubng cutter as it hardens the material
Ok, but where to buy stainless fittings?
great video - well done
Why would you put line inside rubbing frame setting your self for failure
another great vid
is that 37 degree or 45 degree flare?
37 is the only one to use with stainless tube.
You can double flare stainless. I do it all the time.
Tim you're a fucking legend man, I'm using the phrase 'window licking fucktard' on a daily basis now :)
Do your use a 45 or 37 degree flare with stainless..
37 I think
Professor McAmis: you should give serious consideration to opening up a school of advanced auto technology. People would pay top-dollar for that opportunity.
1st thanks for the content
Please ffs don’t put cone or dope pr tape on JIC or compression seal fittings. Please folks.
That Imperial Eastman kit is stupid expensive and not worth it if you are doing a single car.
👏👏👏👍👍👍♥️♥️♥️
I didn't know Dana Carvey is selling race car parts
Ok Mr smart ass.go vote for biden
I want a Mcamis car :(
oh that's what that groove is for in my small cutter.
Never directly mix steel and stainless steel in a product that will be exposed to the elements.
Stainless steel is much higher on the nobility scale than carbon steel. use a transition metal like brass.
13 minute video and never bent or flared a piece of tubing
Well, you dont have the right tool setup for double flaring stainless.
All that talking and no demonstration.
Good information. Thanks for sharing.