I was watching your video's and a while back you said and I agree there's been much debate on the 3 prop or the 4 prop I have an original Titanic picture while it's still on dry dock with very clearly 4 props in the centre
I would like to gratulate! Amazin job! Every little detail is perfect! But! Let me mention one thing: the hawse pipe! Outside it is rounded but the kit version is very sketchy. You should fix it. What do you think? Wish you all the best! Greetings from Hungary! 🥇🥇🥇👌🏻👍🏻
It is not correct. But I’m not going to bother fixing it. It’s just too much work for something I don’t care about. Especially since I covered mine and the clients as it would have been while underway.
Excelente, dota unos artistas, he cogido un sin fin de ideas para mi modelo de SALVAT, lastima que este no tengan marcados los remaches en el casco y en las paredes de las cubiertas, una cosa, con que pintura pintas las cúpulas?? Yo las he pintado con pintura Vallejo y al pasar el trapo o papel se me quita, lo único que se queda es por dentro de las marcas, he tenido que quitar toda la pintura
@@TheMidwestModelShop Muchas gracias, es un detalle que aunque no se ve mucho le da mucho realismo, lo que no me gusta mucho del modelo de SALVAT es los remaches que no les hubiera costado nada hacérselos, en cambio en las chimeneas si que los lleva tanto en la parte negra como la parte naranja que es metal, enhorabuena por ese trabajo, te quedó de 100 💯
This might be a silly question - but with the addition of the KA and Pontos sets to the kit, are you flipping between the sets of instructions, or have you compiled a new, more comprehensive set? Im curious because I am currently going through the kit step by step, noting what needs to be done, then looking at the KA and Pontos sets and their instructions and picking what is added from each set.. and then adding the images from their respective manuals on top of new text, all in a Google doc that just seems to get larger and larger the more I work at it. I feel like I might be going about this the whole wrong way and making more of a challenge than it needs to be. If you are flipping around between the 3 sets- whats the secret to not missing things!
You’re doing it the right way. My customer is just using the KA kit. So I don’t bother too much with the Pontos instructions, right now. The exception being when I do a comparison video. However, the KA kits being what they are, I flip through those pages almost more than I spend time building. And it’s frustrating. Fortunately on their newer kits, the instructions appear to be… instructions!
And for those who are only using Trumpeter parts (like me) I have found that the Humbrol liquid mask is very good at pooling just within the raised sections of the dome cover.
So… I saw the Model Boat Guy try to use it. It seemed like it wasn’t worth the trouble. It would be really easy to frost the dome, but then the already impossible to see grand stair case becomes even more difficult to see. When I catch up with my build and the lights are on, I’ll make a call on that.
Hi Ben boat looking great my fibre optics have arrived from the usa so let there be light. Have you decided how you are going to light the top half of your build ,as I'm coping what you are doing light wise .
@@TheMidwestModelShop could you not drill holes though the decks to allow light from the bottom of the ship to come up to the restaurant etc but defuse it with clear plastic lightly sanded and then use fibre optics for the outside lights etc ,just an idea .
Excellent video Ben. Learned a lot in this one. One question for you though, would panel line accent color have worked just as well for the dome framing and if not, why not? Looking forward to the next installment.
It doesn’t work 100% of the time, but make sure you use a metal primer and your paint is dry. Occasionally a little spot will pull off. But that’s rare and easy to touch up.
Because I knew the Tamiya would work just fine in this instance. And I like that Tamiya fuses the two parts together. The Krystal Klear is great but it just hold the two parts together and I want a more permanent bond because this thing is getting shipped across the country.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks for that bit of info on Krystal Klear. I didn't know that. i thought it was a "glue" but formulated not to fog clear plastic. You're shipping this across country! Maybe you can give some packing pointers as I plan to ship 1:8 scale diecast models. Trying to find the best low-tack masking tape that won't mar the paint, as well as secure other areas. Your model is coming along great! 😃👏👏
Got to say that I was worried about CA glue on clear plastic. Murphy would have seen to it that I would have had a big glob make an appearance some where, some how.
Yeah I guess so. For really large area, I use regular blue masking tape from the big box stores. But I’ve definitely used up several rolls of Tamiya on this build, so far.
Looking awesome 🤠🤠
Domes look great!
Looks awesome!
Always fantastic 👍
I do believe the domes were frosted glass over the staircases, I'm not sure about it, though. The ship is looking really good btw.
I think they were, too. But for all of the effort and considering that the kit isn’t lit… I just didn’t see the point.
Looking fantastic! very clean and from what I know, very, very accurate.
You are right, that is just so cool. Love the layers and your technique for finishing the domes themselves. I'd say, perfect!
I was watching your video's and a while back you said and I agree there's been much debate on the 3 prop or the 4 prop I have an original Titanic picture while it's still on dry dock with very clearly 4 props in the centre
That’s is very clearly the Olympic in that photograph. No know pictures of Titanics props exist 🤷🏻♂️
Looks good Ben. If I tried this, it would look like if my 3yr old niece did it!! LOL!! But seriously, great job!!
Lovely ship so far
would like to see how your ship looks with the fiber optic lighting shining through the domes thanks looking great !!
I would like to gratulate! Amazin job! Every little detail is perfect! But! Let me mention one thing: the hawse pipe! Outside it is rounded but the kit version is very sketchy. You should fix it. What do you think? Wish you all the best! Greetings from Hungary! 🥇🥇🥇👌🏻👍🏻
It is not correct. But I’m not going to bother fixing it. It’s just too much work for something I don’t care about. Especially since I covered mine and the clients as it would have been while underway.
It's a shame so much of the detail on the domes is hidden. Will the interior lighting highlight it a bit?
Hi, have you tried rubbing, down the pontas funnels, photo etched brass ,to get the best !!!!!!!! , likeness there is ?????? .
Excelente, dota unos artistas, he cogido un sin fin de ideas para mi modelo de SALVAT, lastima que este no tengan marcados los remaches en el casco y en las paredes de las cubiertas, una cosa, con que pintura pintas las cúpulas?? Yo las he pintado con pintura Vallejo y al pasar el trapo o papel se me quita, lo único que se queda es por dentro de las marcas, he tenido que quitar toda la pintura
Use an enamel paint.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Muchas gracias, es un detalle que aunque no se ve mucho le da mucho realismo, lo que no me gusta mucho del modelo de SALVAT es los remaches que no les hubiera costado nada hacérselos, en cambio en las chimeneas si que los lleva tanto en la parte negra como la parte naranja que es metal, enhorabuena por ese trabajo, te quedó de 100 💯
Looking good
At least with the deck and Hull now sealed you can't drop anything down into the bilges
This might be a silly question - but with the addition of the KA and Pontos sets to the kit, are you flipping between the sets of instructions, or have you compiled a new, more comprehensive set? Im curious because I am currently going through the kit step by step, noting what needs to be done, then looking at the KA and Pontos sets and their instructions and picking what is added from each set.. and then adding the images from their respective manuals on top of new text, all in a Google doc that just seems to get larger and larger the more I work at it. I feel like I might be going about this the whole wrong way and making more of a challenge than it needs to be.
If you are flipping around between the 3 sets- whats the secret to not missing things!
You’re doing it the right way. My customer is just using the KA kit. So I don’t bother too much with the Pontos instructions, right now. The exception being when I do a comparison video. However, the KA kits being what they are, I flip through those pages almost more than I spend time building. And it’s frustrating. Fortunately on their newer kits, the instructions appear to be… instructions!
@@TheMidwestModelShop At least the figured out their directions are a challenge.. nice to hear that I am doing things the right way - Appreciate it!
Indian ink works well, also
I find Windsor and Newton is the best
But there’re greys as well
And for those who are only using Trumpeter parts (like me) I have found that the Humbrol liquid mask is very good at pooling just within the raised sections of the dome cover.
Does the lights shine through?
Great Job! I was wondering what's your opinion on the miniBrass Dome and trying a frost stain glass look?
So… I saw the Model Boat Guy try to use it. It seemed like it wasn’t worth the trouble. It would be really easy to frost the dome, but then the already impossible to see grand stair case becomes even more difficult to see. When I catch up with my build and the lights are on, I’ll make a call on that.
Great build 👍. Like to know where did you get the Australian 5 cent coin's from?
Noticed them when you scaled them up with the domes.
From my Aussie buddy 😉
@@TheMidwestModelShop
I hope that you did not mind the Question.
I picked it while I was watching your video 👍
Yeah no worries!
Hi Ben boat looking great my fibre optics have arrived from the usa so let there be light.
Have you decided how you are going to light the top half of your build ,as I'm coping what you are doing light wise .
I’m not there yet on mine. But the idea is to run those fiber optics all over the place like little lightbulbs.
@@TheMidwestModelShop could you not drill holes though the decks to allow light from the bottom of the ship to come up to the restaurant etc but defuse it with clear plastic lightly sanded and then use fibre optics for the outside lights etc ,just an idea .
Excellent video Ben. Learned a lot in this one. One question for you though, would panel line accent color have worked just as well for the dome framing and if not, why not? Looking forward to the next installment.
It would as long at it stayed where you wanted it and didn’t wipe away. I used black paint because everyone has black paint.
I’ve had problems putting tape on painted photo etch pieces. What’s your secret?
It doesn’t work 100% of the time, but make sure you use a metal primer and your paint is dry. Occasionally a little spot will pull off. But that’s rare and easy to touch up.
Couple things, thy not panel liner? Why not roll photoetch to actually shap the window panels?
Try both and you’ll find out why.
On the windows. Was there a reason why you chose not to use Micro Krystal Klear?
Because I knew the Tamiya would work just fine in this instance. And I like that Tamiya fuses the two parts together. The Krystal Klear is great but it just hold the two parts together and I want a more permanent bond because this thing is getting shipped across the country.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks for that bit of info on Krystal Klear. I didn't know that. i thought it was a "glue" but formulated not to fog clear plastic. You're shipping this across country! Maybe you can give some packing pointers as I plan to ship 1:8 scale diecast models. Trying to find the best low-tack masking tape that won't mar the paint, as well as secure other areas. Your model is coming along great!
😃👏👏
Domes illuminated?
Not on this model.
Got to say that I was worried about CA glue on clear plastic. Murphy would have seen to it that I would have had a big glob make an appearance some where, some how.
You must go through a LOT of masking tape... LOL But damn, it's worth it. Great, great results.
Yeah I guess so. For really large area, I use regular blue masking tape from the big box stores. But I’ve definitely used up several rolls of Tamiya on this build, so far.
I'm surprised Trumpeter omitted the 2 portholes of skylight housing #1. Those portholes are facing funnel 2.
It may have been a molding limitation.
Where’s the finished Bat mobile?
It’s sitting to the right of Titanic.
Ben, those domes looked amazing, seems a shame to cover them up!!!!