1/200 RMS Titanic Build Video 24
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- ****** UPDATE**********
If you wish to purchase these products, you have to have an established Facebook account and join their group. Because of recent messages I've received from individuals trying to join the group and simply getting banned, and because of the unorthodox method by which they have you purchase these products through Facebook, I can no longer in good conscience, recommend them.
I have personally been banned from their group, as well, for being publicly critical of their ordering process. I did this in the hopes that they would create a website, streamline their purchasing process, and make these awesome items accessible to everyone. This hobby is supposed to be fun and enjoyable for everyone around the world.
I will not promote a product or products that are only accessible to a tiny group of select individuals.
*****************************
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Fantastic videos! I was on the model team for Cameron's film. Great memories. Your videos have inspired me to get this kit. Many thanks!
Oh wow, that's really cool! Do you mind if I email you with some questions just out of pure curiosity?
You should try the Godhand nippers. I use the for building gundams and they don’t push the part up. Really would be worth it to try them out.
My weapon of choice for 3D prints has been a fine jeweler's saw. It can be more delicate than heat in some situations, but I couldn't imagine it tackling those super fine stanchions. I have never tried the heat method before, thanks for demonstrating it!
And that jeweler saw would make short work of cutting through the base to get those small pieces out of the middle and expose the supports for the large pieces.
Ben, thanks for your effort, time, and instructions for the last two episodes. As for picking one or the other bridge... as you said 'pick your poison'. One thing that struck me was that the resin bridge is manufactured as a ' direct kit replacement part', no modification to the kit. It should have been printed as a single piece not a three piece item, also will the 3D manufactures ever stop cramming so many parts so close to each other? Looking forward to the next episode.
One can see how 3D printing is still in its infancy. I'm sure as the manufacturers get more experience, the prints will get easier to work with. Thanks for showing us the ins and outs with both sets Ben. Loved how the little dog busted into the shot wagging his tail. 🐕🙂
Very good and informative video. There is a tremendous amount supports on these parts. I was considering this model but the cost is way to much.
My suggestion is that anyone who enjoys building models learn CAD. It's basically free. Buy a resin printer for a few hundred bucks. You'll have a never ending supply of parts in any scale. Just another skill modelers need.
The 3D bridge windows look more classic Titanic to me, but I think the Photo Etch is a nice cleaner crisper look overall. Just my opinion.
DVD storage boxes!! 😂
Thanks Ben, this has been so, so helpful...:)
Never thought of that - heating up a knife to trim - Brilliant
3D parts are really cool. You guys are doing a great job so far and I can't wait to see the next episode with this build ...can't wait till she is done, keep up the great work and thanks for posting I know making these video's aren't easy so it's greatly appeciated...Have a great day guys. Cool I was the first to post a comment lol
At 18:30 I believe you’re referring to the bridge cabs; the little boxy rooms located at the end of each bridge wing. 👍
Seems to me, that given the clean up issues, brittleness, and high price, and toxicity, PE is a better way to go. At least for now, no doubt they will get better as time goes by.
I was interested in the 3D parts for a 1/350 scale build I'm doing but i wasn't accepted by the admins when I tried to join the Facebook group. No explanation, so will be taking my money elsewhere as the parts are available in PE.
Great video though and good companion piece to the one where you fitted the PE equivalents.
That is the problem with them not having a website.
I have a Dremel gas powered soldering iron that comes with a cutting blade
Those little shelters at the end of the bridge wings are called cabs.
Wouldn't it be easier to just print some parts separately, esp roofs?
You would think…
Well that has certainly put me off of buying that part. It is ridiculous the way I is held.
Hi Ben, wow your working review on the China 3D bridge components convinced me that PE is the way to go! They are brilliantly detailed but getting them out of the block looks virtually impossible without breaking them! I think that the support struts are hopelessly too thin to be practical and are sure to be gone during the course of the build so replacing them with a PE version would be advisable when the tolerance is way too fine. The only other thing about it is the scale thickness and strength. On the bridge the windows still look a little heavy whereas the PE versions are near perfect and obviously stronger. Perhaps a mix of the 2 formats with brass being used for the struts would be a better and happier way to go. Your video was a brilliant example on how working near the edge modelling can be! Having said all of that there is obviously a place for some parts that can be better as 3D and I have some for my build including the KA mods which are less prone to mini disasters! Anyway you spent loads of time on that and I for one really appreciated your bravery and efforts with this one. By the way Titanic's life belt preservers were plain white as the red stripes were a later code of practice for White Star ships! Good job! Regards JH ⚓
Thanks Johnny! I’ll keep the rest of the life preservers white!
Those are not life preservers. They are huge doughnuts heavily dusted in powdered sugar.
@@DavidRLentz 😂👍
Ben, that hot knife tip was great! I've got some 3D guns in 1/600, which look great but they seem really fragile to cut off. I am definitely going to try this out. Thanks!
The photoetched bridge that you installed is far better than this 3d printed in terms of accuracy
Was having a bad day till I seen the notification mood changed instantly! I don’t know if I could be dealing with cutting all them little bits out gladly im still at the porthole drilling stage so I still have time to think about all these things :) great video as always look forward to the next one,
i cut resin by using the backside of a 45 degree angle X-acto blade like a scribe. It takes a little longer, but leaves a nice cut.
That’s a great idea!
Use a Drexel with a circular blade to separate the housing from the bottom?
Yes any cutting tool like that will work.
As a designer who creates and sells 3D printed parts in both FDM and resin printed formats, I think it’s a shame that the creators decided that the way they set the supports and encapsulated the parts to make it too difficult for modelers to remove and handle. Thankfully you didn’t great video for those wise enough to seek out. Hopefully someone will produce even better designed parts and easier to remove supports n
In the future you might what to strengthen the finer prints with a coating of CA before trying to detach them...maybe a flexible CA. Or, just cut them out and leave the supports to act as a jig to glue in brass pieces.
awesome review 👍
13:30 you cut off all the bottom parts of the stanchions, ouch...
Still very impressed by your modelling skills. I'm using this series as inspiration for when I inevitably buy this kit too, and am already taking notes on all the upgrade parts available.
Hello from Australia you're doing a brilliant job...it's just a shame this expensive kit has so many flaws that a lot of people have had to do some serious modifications cheers...Matt
"China is another country". 🤣 Ok, Kamala, thanks for the geography lesson. LMAO!
Ok Ben now wide awake and thanks for the price information lol .do you think a razor saw would have worked ok to separate those 2 bridge sections?.
How much would it cost for you to build a Trumpeter Titanic for me? I
don't have the patience/time/space to build a model like that
I have two in the works. I’m not taking any commissions on Titanic at this time. When my build is done, I’ll consider selling it.
Nice comparison. The level of detail that is available nowadays for models of all kinds is just amazing.
I really want a solder-knife now.
Down into the details! It is good to see you trying different approaches, to enable us to determine the best option, yet avoid unnecessary extra expense.
A thought that might return the favour: rather than the snipper (wire cutter?), I use small fingernail trimmers in different sizes (they are not perfect; but the biting areas are smaller and sharper, to cut little things). I wish I could find a master toolmaker who could adapt these snippers to fashion an array of custom tools in an assortment of sizes, shapes, etc.).
Such a man exists. His tools are all sharpened and shaped by hand, before being packaged. His scribing tools are the best that I have ever seen. Www.umm-USA.com
In real time, how long did it take to do all the work you did in this video?
Hmmmm 🤔 well, keep in mind I stopped and set the camera up and blah blah blah along with all of that. I probably have 5 hours into it. Filming adds a lot of time.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks. I was guessing about four hours. You do nice work.
A lot of the time with 3d prints if you place the part in hot (not boiling) water for say 30 seconds you will soften the resin, this makes it really easy to part the junction between support and part with a sharp knife and zero pressure
I’m going to try this! Thank you!
Wipe the knife off. Looking great!!
I love your analogy at the beginning, but I prefer a VW to a BMW or Mercedes. LOL!! Great video and I enjoy watching your videos to show how bad I am at ship building!!! Just kidding, from the box I am not bad but to your level, I will never be close. So a hearty thank you for all your attention to detail. So are you willing to give me a price on the 1/350 Titanic? Just messing with you Ben! :) I could not afford for you to build it the way I want. But just to let you and Nora know that I really do appreciate your videos. Here is to wishing you both a well and safe weekend.
Hello, I'm Fabio from Italy, I'm using google translate to write to you I followed all your videos on the titanic 1: 200 and I wanted to ask you some questions: the pieces of fiber you are using to light up the portholes of the titanic at how many centimeters are you there cutting? and what diameter are they? (0.75 mm - 1 mm - 2 mm and 3 mm) I would also like to use your method to illuminate the part for all the portholes but I would not like to know which are the diameters for the porthole holes and which fiber to buy. Then which upgrade of the titanic would you recommend me to take (china - MK1?) Waiting for an answer. Best regards
“Ben don’t you know?” “I DO know” that made me chuckle…good job on these videos man, I’ve been binge watching your channel lately. Just recently started modeling again. used to love making models as a kid but was always so dissapopointed that I couldn’t match the box art. Now that i’m older with more patience and finesse I’ve decides to give it anotheer go. Your channel is helping me big time, thank you and keep it up please.
3D prints are amazing in the detail they can get but the cleanup can be horrendous. And the material used for the good prints reminds me a lot of the struggles with old resin kits.
Like regular kits there is a lot of quality distinction in not only the details but the way it is designed and split up and supported.
Thanks Ben for this review - I think it's convinced me to stick with the PE parts. I have the 3D printed funnels, no.1 hatch, windlass and crane bases though that you reviewed many moons ago and they all are a thing of beauty.
Great explanation Ben.
the best guide ever regarding the China 3 d resins , very very usefull , I didn't realise that after cleaning a first primer is needed of metal etch primer , does this apply to just the China 3 D resin or the resin in the KA Set as well
Morning Ben great video as always ,any chance you could mention what the cost of these items are please. Dollars or pounds it doesn't matter many thanks stay safe .
I did in the intro.
@@TheMidwestModelShop sorry ben just got in from work when I wrote that and hadn't watched the video yet lol .
Good evening, my question may be stupid, but which printer should I use to print on styrene. thank you for your reply
I’m not really sure. The question is will the ink stick? I would just try a normal ink jet first and see how it turns out before getting a laser printerz
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thank you very much for your answer, keep up the good work ;-)
Ben when did you put those .5ml styrene strips on the leading edge and why? sorry I must've missed it before
I did it in the previous video. If you don’t, the bridge won’t fit.
@@TheMidwestModelShop sorry must've missed that. Is that because of the wooden deck?
The kit bridge is about 1mm thick and the PE is about 1/4 of the that. So you have to make up the difference.
@@TheMidwestModelShop ah thank you. I got confused with you saying it needed thinning out. Thanks Ben
Excellent comparison video Ben! I think the China 3D stuff is amazingly beautiful.
I imagine even once the model is built and we need to clean the dust from those decks, those resin stanchions will get lost. I think if they combined it with photo etch parts, those stanchions would be much stronger.
The 3D printed one is better in the sense it already has the classic curve, many tiny details already attached, and the life preservers.
One accuracy point you forgot to mention. If you use a photo etch superstructure I strongly advise you use a photo etch bridge. This is not only to match the scale thickness, but also because I designed the superstructure and bridge to ‘over hang’ the boat deck so it accurately hides the beams. The kit bridge and 3D fail do this.
As the photo etch comes in two half’s. It is easier to paint the window frames and add acetate between them for the glass effect.
Like you say, none tick every box. Both have different pros and cons. So this video is great to help us all decide what we prefer on our models.
Great tips and tricks. Always honest and lmpartial. Thanks for your time and efforts Ben
Thank you SO much for these tips. I never considered how the shape of the cutter’s blade would affect the parts coming off of sprues, or using heat to aid the process. This is invaluable advice. I’ve never seen another modeling channel that helps the viewer improve their skills as much as yours does.