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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
- UPDATE: Do not use the lead screw caps and the T-braces. instead use the Hulk frame upgrade for frame stiffness. Go watch my video about it here :
• Anet A8 Upgrades - HUL...
In this video, I am showing the most essential printable upgrades for your Anet A8 printer when you are just getting started printing and modifying your printer in 2018. All these upgrades do not require any additional hardware to be aquired.
*** Get the Anet A8 here
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Gearbest:
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
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*** Links:
Modified Fan Duct
www.thingiverse.com/thing:232...
T Corner frame braces for vertical frame stability
www.thingiverse.com/thing:167...
Extruder button with filament guide
www.thingiverse.com/thing:255...
Anti Z-Wobble lead screw support
www.thingiverse.com/thing:212...
x-Axis Leveling Tool
www.thingiverse.com/thing:301...
Front Frame Brace
www.thingiverse.com/thing:185...
Rear Frame Brace
www.thingiverse.com/thing:185...
Blue Painters Tape to cover your printbed
amzn.to/2EhHTku
The really wide blue tape, less stripes
amzn.to/2IikkMj
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I had a problem with the bed height changing every time I moved my printer. Fixed it by bolting the frame down to a sheet of 1"/25mm mdf. Another good upgrade is to replace the bearings with Drylin bearings. They seem much smoother than some of the stock linear ball bearings.
Great video! I’ll definitely be printing some of these. Thanks for sharing.
thanks my printers arriving next week, I will print them.
Great Video, Thank you for making it
Good work Daniel
Awesome!! thank you!
Thanks, always love to help!
Thank you. :)
For front and rear frame braces I made 1/8 inch thick aluminum doublers that I installed over the acrylic plates. No movement at all now!!
pic? instructions?
Take the end off trace around it on the aluminum mark the holes drill and cut out the plate reinstall both back on the printer.
big vote on the front and rear braces, the acrylic framework can benefit strongly from them! they might be a long print but they go well even with a slight warp or texture.
Oh yes, unfortunately, all my Anet A8s are pretty much done nowadays, so I can only use them as spare parts for other printers....
Fyi, i just got my anet a8 and the frame has been slightly modified that the front and rear frame bracing is off by 10mm:) so make aure to measure center to center for the rods. The rear frame brace is ctc at 218mm while my rods are ctc ar 228mm
Can all the partsbe made on the a8? Im thinking of buying one and your video is amazing
thanks my friend
Thanks Mesut Çınar!
Do not use the Z wobble upgrade! its suppose to wobble! what is important its the Z rod to be straight
By coincidence I came across this video as I noticed you are using several of my designs on your printer. I usually don’t comment on videos for this reason however when I saw that you are using anti z wobble parts I decided to make an exception.
It seems that a large number of people in the 3D community don’t understand by mounting these parts will NOT improve the quality of the printed parts. In fact the contrary will happen.
Lets look at the two lead screws and the two guide bars:
The guide bars have one main function and that is to guide the two carriage mounts that holds the extruder assembly. It is very important that the guide bars are straight and that they have no play in the frame mounts. It is also important that the carriage mounts have no play in the guide bars. Bent guide bars or play will cause shifts in the layers (x axis).
The lead screws on the other hand have a completely different function. They are designed to do one thing and that is to move the carriage assembly up or down and nothing else. It is therefore important that the lead screws have the least amount of friction.
So this means the rods “guide” the carriage and the lead screws “move” the carriage up/down.
If, as seen in your video, by fixating the top of the lead screws with so called anti wobble caps the lead screw is turned into a guide! Now we have two guides counter acting forces with each other and the more bent each of them are the more force is acting on both of them which we definitely don’t want having because the guide bars are no longer solely guiding the carriage assembly themselves.
Therefore it is strongly recommended you remove those caps! The top of the lead screws must move freely. The wobbling has absolutely no effect on print quality!
Leo
PS: The T-corner frame braces have hardly no function at all. The frame will still move in the upper region. The screws on the frame will still loosen over time. And to add insult to injury the frame will get scratched by the T-corner over time due to constant movement. There are much better solutions on Thingiverse to make the printer much more stable in the upper region.
Hey Leo, first of all thank you for your in depth comment on my video. I am always looking for critique and this one is really helpful constructive feedback. I have used quite a few parts from you on my Anet printers and they work really well. On the other hand I would like to do more in depth videos about things like wobbling and quality improvements for the A8 which don't require expensive parts, although an A8M frame would also be an interesting adventure but it is not cheap. Do you refer to the hulk frame when you mean better parts for these issues? Would this be the best to improve the printers stability and prevent movements in the upper regions? I was planning to compare this very soon to an unmodified frame.
@@Crosslink3D I am the creator of the "Hulk" frame braces so my opinion is a bit biased. But to answer your question, yes. That is why I designed them. They have been on my printer for almost 2 years now without any issues. You must think long term. That is when you see differences concerning mods, particularly on this "sensitive" printer.
Got it, I now believe that this is worth more investigation from my end and more testing. The process is the interesting part not only the result. If am not yet using the printers to actually create products but mainly to learn and get better in the end to end process of designing parts to getting the best results. This is still one of the greatest hobbies I can imagine. However I can now also understand why many people buy these devices and then after a while abandon because it takes more than just downloading and printing starwars figures from Thingiverse to keep someone interested in this hobby in the long term. I am happy that we have such a great and helpful community for this 😁
@@Leos-World hey leo thank you for stating that, was about to write a long comment as to why the z anti wobble mod was terrible. Im a big fan of your hulk braces, they really improved my prints.
I applied the Hulk frame lately and I have to say, it's really sturdy. Will do some more testing on max speed
will these also work with the a8 plus?
Cheers
My kit didn’t come with a fan duct at all. Can I print one without it?
The quality of your prints look much better than mine. How can I better the quality of my prints?
can you tell me why the nozzle dont stay heated goes up to 184 and remains at 117 so it means its not printing right helpppppppppppppppp please.
If your temperatures are off that crazy, there must be a defect with the temperature sensor. Check your sensor cables and especially the wires at the plug that goes into the mainboard socket. Sometimes these connections are loose and not well-pressed so they will generate weird temp readings.
@@Crosslink3D yup that was it it was out thanks
I need some help i cant get mine to print correctly it keeps getting bad quality and i dont know how to fix it
I don't know if you still need help, but if you do, I could help you. But you need to share what slicer and material you use and your settings. If you're using Cura and PLA I could send you my own settings as a base.
I have printed the air duct, but the support is on the inside. How do I get it out?
Print it with support just touching the buildplate option in cura
@@Crosslink3D Awsome thankyou!
Why u wear 2watch
Z-axis lead screw bushings........absolutely useless with that kind of play. I wish I had saved the money and not bought the A8. In retrospect the only good thing about this printer is the (relatively) cheap price when it was introduced. The Ender 3 is now the price of the A8 when it was released and is infinitely better. Ahhh hindsight.
Agree mostly on this. It depends on what you are looking for. The Anet A8 I mostly use as a foundation for building out a printer (sometimes a bit crazy). The Ender 3 is my workhorse.