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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2019
- Anet A8 AM8 Upgrade - part 2 - Electronics and first print
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This video is part 2 of my Anet A8 to AM8 build series. In this part, I cover the belt and electronics installation as well as a first test print showing glimpse of the results to be expected for the future.
If you missed watching part 1, watch it here: • Anet A8 AM8 Upgrade - ...
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*** Get the Anet A8 here
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/aneta8
*** Thingiverse parts
AM8 drill version by futureismaker, all STL parts from there
www.thingiverse.com/thing:372...
AM8 horizontal Y-belt upgrade
www.thingiverse.com/thing:297...
AM8 cable manager
www.thingiverse.com/thing:342...
AM8 original build guide
cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/18...
*** Hardware used
AM8 frame by @futureismaker. Costs 50$ + shipping. You can contact @futureismaker on Instagram directly. Use "crosslink" as the reference and you will get a 5$ discount.
8mm high precision rods for Y-Axis, 400mm long
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/8mmrods400mm
IGUS 8mm replacement linear bearings (2 packs)
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/igus8mm
625ZZ bearings for upgraded Y-Belt tensioner
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/625ZZ
GT2 pulleys for upgraded Y-Belt tensioner
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/gt2pulley
5mm steel pin for upgraded Y-Belt tensioner
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/5mmpin
Nema 17 2020 bracket for upgraded Y-belt tensioner
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/nema17bracket2020
THE PRINTERS I USE: kit.co/danielcrosslink/the-3d...
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I started my AM8 build roughly a year ago and life got in the way. I just recently started working on it again and it was a pleasant surprise to come across your channel/videos! Subscribed!
Thanks for the great video, love this channel and the AM8 upgrade is awesome i think i am go to do the same to my A8. Thanks for all the great videos and love the shirt.
Great Video. I'd love to see a EMT8 build and comparisons. Maybe even a CoreA8 conversion.
Impressive results, another great vid
My hotend on my AM8 is an original E3D V6 hotend in bowden setup to an original E3D Titan extruder. I then also recommend going for Capricorn XS tube since you will not be cutting any corners. To mount the hotend I used a x carriage from 3Displacement on Thingiverse (thing:3599905 and option 2 or 3) together with a custom designed BL Touch bracket (can find it through the X carriage link). Print quality is excellent now (I had trouble with my Anet extruder skipping on the filament and grinding). I would also recommend a mainboard upgrade in the future, something like a Bigtreetech SKR v1.3 with TMC2209 stepper motor drivers. You will have all the goodies then: stealthchop, sensorless homing, 32 bit processing and ample expandability.
Can't wait tio order ther frame for my anet
Took me a while before i watched the vidio.
It looks amazing in the red color.
Cant wait to see more about it. ;-)
Never upgraded to the M frame but my a8 has been unstoppable out of the box and might eventually fet an am8 when mine dies
Keep the videos comming, Love it🤓
Great video indeed. I did the same to my CTC i3 pro B, I then got some more aluminium and re-built it as a cube frame and ghosting/ringing is a thing of the past. Thanks to other videos of yours it also has Marlin on it and a 12864 LCD all working perfectly (mainboard is a Anet a8 one).
Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.
You really pimped your A8!
As a upgrade to the smooth rod holder. You could move the fixing point's to the front the printer. Design a upside down t. On the end of the vertical section you could put a tunnel that would hold the smooth rod. then you would be able to use the adjustable wheels that you printed for levelling the bed.
good first result ! if it gets confirmed, it's well worth the price :)
That's a very nice upgrade. I think I'd do this upgrade to my i3 mk2 clone since it's frame is made of plywood right now. Thanks Daniel!
Plywood isn't all that bad. I am currently resurrecting a CTC i3 (got it incomplete) and with a few printed parts, it becomes extremly strong. But it has the "full" main frame part (the big "O") like a prusa and not like the Geeetech i3 Pro W that I also mod right now. If I would mod a Geeetech i3 Pro W the way he mods his Anet A8, there would be not much of the original in the final printer anymore^^ If I replace the frame, I should also replace the leadscrew and the Extruder with Hotend are kind of bad. Then I should replace the driver, the bearings and the PSU (24V would obviously be better) Then the cheap Heatbed and maybe the screen. Basically enough to start building a second printer from scratch, right?^^ I have therefore set a different goal for each of my printers. My Ender 3 shall be the best it can be, because it was very good from the start. My Geeetech shall be upgraded as efficient as possible (got it for only 40€ by chance) and my CTC will be the subject to all kind of weird experiments, reviving it with parts I clone from the original Prusa i3 Mk2s (I have nearly completed my cloned direct drive) And luckily files meant for the Geeetech are often also working for the CTC and vice versa.
@@SchwachsinnProduzent My frame is one I laser cut from 6mm ply and then laminated 2 pieces together to make a 12mm frame. It has the side supports which are also 6mm ply but only one thickness of ply. It is very strong yes, but the laser cutter I used has a 12" X 24" bed so my frame had to be pieced together since the whole frame could not be cut at once. My MK2 clone is based on the "dolly" clone Tom of Toms3d did with some custom printed parts and tweeks. It works pretty good but I'd still like to do a aluminum frame for it some day. Thanks for your reply.
@@kortt So the weakest point is currently that you could only cut smaller pieces for the main part of the frame that you had to put together? If I understood Tom's video correctly, the precision you get with normal hand tools is enough for this part. Maybe you could cut this one piece again, maybe from a different kind of plate. I could imagine, if you find something like an old iron plate in the right size, it would be pretty cool and overkill. Or you might get a rest piece of good wood in that size for a good price. I would keep the eyes open for something that could be recycled for this. But I can also understand, why you would like to try an aluminium frame. Since the Dolly is basically an Prusa i3 Mk2S with cheaper parts, I would recommend you to look for the Prusa i3 Bear upgrade. It seems like this is basically what you are looking for.
wow night and day this is a nice mod !!! im about to do the same after this video for sure excellent work Daniel :::::::::::::::::::::::)
I was wondering if there was anyway you can make o e giant video of all of the upgrades and mods and updates you would currently suggest for the Anet A8
Great video but what did you do to auto bed the new numbers?
Great video.
I have the original am8, and going to convert my first printer to the blv M12. Then I think I make remake my am8 into this version with a Bowden head. I See this version has a few tweaks I like
If you running bl touch use solid bed mounts
Hi, great video. I have just discovered your channel and have been making my way through your vids. Do you have links to the parts you printed for the AM8 build. I'd like to do the same build for my old A8. I also notice you are using a BL touch sensor, is this the better one? I have an inductive one as per your other video. Thanks for the all the info, stay safe and keep up the great work.
Hi daniel. Could you please tell at what speed did you print your benchy in the AM8? I already converted my A8 to AM8, but i still get some (although not much) ghosting/ringing. thanks, keep up the good work
Did you finish programming the auto reveling sensor?
cool
How long did the benchy print take (from start to finish)?
I bought a am8 kit from amazon but it didn't come with instructions. I've built it following the instructions in the description does anyone know how far back the z pillar should be placed and the y rod mount positions. Thanks
Hi can you share your srttings of pla+ for anet a8?
Is this a clean cable managmente xD???
where you find y axis bed cable protector
Amazing video, as always!
Do you think that there is enough room to mount the electrics and PSU under the bed?
No there’s not. If you use another layer of extrusion underneath, it would be enough space.
Angenommen du hättest noch einen Stock a8....würdest du ihn heute wieder auf AM8 umbauen?
12mm linear bearings?
I'm replacing the belts with linear rods so to eliminate false tensioning by the belts. So 3 or 4 custom parts have to be made.
Hi, did you glue a glass in the heatedbed? Let me know how please.
I used the Anycubic Ultrabase, which comes with a self adhesive glass. Anyways, you can use double sided tape or a pre-made double sided sheet that fits for your printer.
@@Crosslink3D Thanks for the tip.
Would the E3D V6 with a direct drive or bowden be a good upgrade. There are several conversions to be had on thingiverse for the A8. How would it be better?
e3d v6 is a worthwhile upgrade, however, converting to bowden is up to you. The stock anet x carriage is kind of terrible, it's heavy, and also gets very warm. An e3d v6 solves most of these issues and is some cases can net you an extra 10-30mm in x build space.
hey, great video, could you provide me the file from your bl touch to 5015 fan adapter (at 4:05 ) please sir ? i couldn't find it anywhere on thingiverse, yeggi,... It would really help me out !
Hey I have an am8 with stock motherboard. What would be a nice upgrade for the motherboard? I remember ramp 1.6 but that was a year so two ago. I want the lastest stuff so I don’t have to upgrade later. Thanks
Biquu Techtree SKR 1.4 Turbo with 2209 Stepper Drivers, its 32 Bits at 120Mhz and accepts 12V or 24V
Nice vid. like allways, but i got few points for you:
1)still using original cables from power supply to electronics? PLS check the fuse! it sometimes burn itself, better make a separate cables to each mosfets and mainboard.
2)try to use better coupling for Zaxis threded rods, this spring ones can make a big errors in layer heigh
3)about that speed test... you will use bigger acceleraitons, right? so the default acceleration in firmware is dominant that you use in slicer configuration, so be aware...
Nice build! keep the good work! :D
Thx for the points. I have two sets of wires going to the Mainboard and mosfets separately. Do you have any specific motor couplings that you can recommend?
@@Crosslink3D iam actually using coupler from trianglelab. (full name on aliexpress: "trianglelab Upgraded Leadscrew Coupler For CR10/CR10S/Ender 2/ ender3/Tornado/Anet A8 and more Flexible Shaft Coupler")
PLEASE HELP!! I am not a programmer but I did the AM8 build and added an e3dv6 and a capacitive touch sensor. I cannot figure out the firmware changes. Could you send me the CONFIG files for this so my printer is not a hunk of scrap metal?!
Anyone tried replacing the X axis motor couplers with universal joints (or gimbal joints) ?
Do you mean these? [10,39€]5mm to 8mm Aluminum Shaft Coupler Rigid Clamping Coupler for Creality/ Ender 3 3D Printer 3D Printer & Supplies from Electronics on banggood.com
banggood.app.link/axq4e1w011
@@Crosslink3D Nope. These are rigid couplers.
I would like to have the Z axis screw completely free to move in all directions, to avoid any binding in the brass nuts on the X-bridge.
It is very important that the couplers are precision made with snug fitting bores to both engine and screw axles.
Any remaining offset in this coupling will end up as binding in the brass nuts, therefore a Ujoint would allow the ultimate free turning in the brass nuts.
Good results. Which is the total cost of the upgrade?
Not much more than 50USD for the frame plus a spool of filament and some additional t-nuts and screws.
Crosslink great!
If I find a good local source for the frame I may do it.
The bed leveling issues are discouraging me from doing this metal frame upgrade.
With the BL touch, you don't need to level the bed often.
I am using nyloc's on mine and it's been a no brainer
I too print PLA #Biodegradable :)
Maybe you could try to clone the Prusa direct drive extruder? It is mostly printed, Prusa is known for their great print quality and parts are easily available. I am currently cloning the one from the Mk2s (waiting for the extruder gear, because I got the cheapest offer which takes forever). I removed the back part of the Motor and spray painted it glossy black so it looks even more like the real deal (apart from the wrong filament colour of the printed parts). I heard that the best deal for a good V6 is to get the cheapest chinese one and replace the heatbreak with a genuine one. Or get the slightly more expensive chinese clone from Trianglelab. I used the official build guide and the videos and hompage of Thomas Sanladerer as my sources for the most part.
Congratulations, you have won a "I Print PLA" T-Shirt. You were drawn during the livestream on Sunday, 1st of December. Please get back to me for the details :-)
@@Crosslink3D Awesome :) How should I give you my contact information? I think TH-cam removed the private message function with one of their updates, didn't they? Shall I send an e-mail?
Yes, please send your address and email to daniel@crosslink.io
Please send me an email, so I can make sure you will get your shirt. If you don't do it by Friday 13th 6pm CET, I will draw someone else.
I did my AM8 build earlier but I'm still loving watching AM8 build stuff. Well done. Horizontal Y-belt upgrade is suggested to reduce Y motor stress but I wasn't happy with tensioneer part, so I've replaced that with www.thingiverse.com/thing:2459058 by flipping 90 degree bearings part
Thanks for the suggestions, always happy if you like it :-)
Hi. I recently sssembled an older model Anet A8. It has the V1.5 board. I've been reading and watching tons of videos from people that say I need to upgrade my firmware. Then there is the whole boot loader issue. I don't know where to begin..I mostly want to upgrade for safety reasons..fire etc. Where can I have success? I run Windows 10..and see I will still have trouble if I upgrade firmware to Marlin and Arduino etc..Who can direct me to the right information? Don't want to waste hrs of my time if it will not work..Can anyone help me?
Hi Rich, I have several videos explaining this on my channel. Starting with the arduino uno here: th-cam.com/video/RQIizXtf9oo/w-d-xo.html. If you like to use a USBTinyISP or USBAsp programmer, which is under 5 USD and more convenient, watch this video: th-cam.com/video/wRODgnAqp1A/w-d-xo.html.
Where can I find the partslist and build instruction?
There is a general AM8 build instruction on Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216. Then there is tons of variations. It's a good start.