How To Prevent & Recover From Hand Injuries | ft. Ollie Torr from Lattice Training

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About The Guest:
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training.
Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!
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[@fabiopalma4429]

Play a musical instrument, like the piano or the accordion. Good for the fingers and for the soul 😊

[@Voidload]

I really reecommend Hooper's Beta channel for this. After I did injure my ring finger lumbrical and pulley at the same time, I started hangboarding the very next day. Obviously near 0 force, but it's all about producing that stimulus many times a day, this varies on the severity of your injury of course, so you might want a few days of rest after a severe strain!
And what I have learnt is: "Your body only adapts to what you are asking of it". And all I can say is that it's true from my experience. Just keep loading it extremely slowly up, keep practicing and progressively loading whatever pain position you feel - for me it also included these holds that do not include all 4 fingers altogether as you need your body to adapt and strengthen on these types of holds.
And really it's all about the patience and active care, massages, stretching, practicing mobility and loading. I have returned so much stronger after the injury partially because I never left. Simply resting and not doing anything might work for you, but also might not, because the body only regenerates to your daily life necessities.
Stimulus -> Kolagen.
Also please consider that the first tissue rebuild is still soft and you want to wait for it to harden which takes time (and practice), so even if it feels good, be patient with it

[@sammiller1003]

Lumbricals connect distally to the two adjacent fingers. They get torn when you have one finger fully flexed and the adjacent finger extended and you load in this position. If you tear a lumbrical you can actually still climb if you buddy tape the two adjacent fingers together and just don’t split them. Takes a long time to heal. Like 6mo to a year.

[@hetistijmen]

The thing you said about the dip joint not flexing easily impacting the lumbricals really opened my eyes! My joints are also very stiff (from birth, not from climbing) and my hands get pumped when climbing like you described. Are you by any chance also fairly strong on open handed slopers and super wide pinches without really training them?
I just tried the nail squeeze stretch and if feels really good (or at least like it works) so I'll try that for a bit.

[@94jmh]

🦍🔥🦍