dave everybody's loving the more frequent uploads! you're a legend mate its always so helpful to hear any advice from you i almost always try to implement some sort of change after watching your videos.
I think beginners can benefit from wearing the rock shoes while warming up for 2 reasons: 1. it’s a great opportunity to work on placing the feet and 2. If your foot slips you can shock load a finger that isn’t ready to take that load
My warm-up is a bit weird. I make my coffee and go to my garage, where my personal tension board is, then i watch some Dave MacLeod, EKB, Mellow, Bouldering Bobats, Epic or Sasha Digiulian climbing 5.14d like it's a warm-up. I drink my coffee and do some 3 finger pull-ups slowly while i finish my coffee. Then i head to the climbing gym(24 minute commute). I usually spend 2-3 hours there 2-3 times a week. I find that getting my psych up, by watching such inspirational and motivated people, really keeps my personal motivation at a high. Thanks Dave, another great vid.
You've just made me remember about how when I was a teen and before I went skating I would always watch my fave skate vids before heading out, to get myself psyched up. However, this is something I've forgotten about with climbing! Thanks for reminding me :)
Grats Woot I'm a bit the same, I make a cup of coffee or tea and psych myself up with videos on the way to the gym (public transit, don't drive distracted!). Then I do some easy bouldering V0-V2 for around 8ish boulders, move up to V3-V5 for around 6-8 more (almost always climbs I've already done, too), then I move on to projecting:
The real challenge is warming up outdoors. Quite often there are no easy routes, not even a flat surface for a few push-ups and jumping jacks. You also get cold during breaks or belaying. I’ve started doing (unloaded) squats to at least get the heart rate up and get warm.
Hi Dave! Thanks for the Vid, hugely helpful 🙏 I remember watching a video by Jeff Cavalere (athleanX) where he referenced a study done on stretching before working out. It was something like: stretching for a minute or more before working out significantly reduces force output on said muscle group/s... the reason being that you elongate the muscles with long duration holds and so the brain isn't going through the same 'rehearsed' movement patterns, it removes the nuerological strength component.. it was something along those lines anyway 😅 don't quote me on it, I didn't even see the study! Cheers for this excellent warm up strategy, especially the part about using the warm up as a tool to asses recovery and determine the workout thereafter 🙌
Brilliant, great to see your approach to warming up!!! Do you follow a similar approach outdoors? I‘m thinking about all those boulders where there‘s not a lot of easy terrain to warm up on... thanks again for the great content!!
A lot of people ask me that. Follow up on the way with how to warm up when there are no warm up climbs. Again pretty simple! Hang, then bits of moves, then moves, then more moves.
Hi Dave, how do you apply these warm up principles at the crag? Especially a crag without any 'easy' climbing available? Could you warm up multiple times during a day outside if you have long rest periods?
Awesome. I'm looking to get both of your two books this holiday season and I was wondering the best way for me to purchase them. I am in United states and dont use the Euro. I was wondering if I order on amazon if you will still make the same profit. I want to support you becuase I very much enjoy the content but it seems easiest to just order from amazon. Any suggestion?
Thanks for the thought. Better for us to order from davemacleod.com We ship books and hangboards to the US every day. The usual range of options for paying on my site. We don't use the Euro either!
Finally got that orange! Is it that same as the one you mentioned in a previous video not being able to link? Someone was asking how you warm up for such a climb on a previous video (the one with the broken hold), might be a coincidence, but it's really cool to see that your content is coming from the fans!
When do you do antagonistic exercises Dave? As a separate session rather than as part of warm up? I'm presuming you need to do lots of push ups and the like to keep your body balanced?
I wouldn't really do strength exercises as part of my warm-up. I need to warm-up first! So I do them along with my other strength exercises after the warm-up. Yes I do push-ups and other exercises several times a week.
Awesome content Dave. I also judge my performance on my warm up & adjust my workout to suit. Would be good if you could do a video on training for lead climbing endurance in a bouldering gym ?
Thanks for the video. Do you think that dinamic stretching (I mean stretching for short period of time) after warming up doing some easy moves at the wall could be beneficial for those like me that feel a lot of tension on the trapezius muscle as in my case and tend to have knots in that area? Now that Im recovering from an injury in that muscle I feel safer and less likely to have an injury if I release a bit of tension from the muscle before training hard. Would love to see your stretching routine as well. Thank you very much and sorry for my english if I express myself bad
Dynamic stretching does not release tension in the muscle. It would be much better just to address and resolve the painful trapezius and not to have to work around it all the time. Many years ago I went through a period of having pain in the trapezius and other muscles i the area. In my research for Make or Break I found that just some really basic shoulder exercises resolved it completely.
I will definitely look for that. Physiotherapy have helped me but the pain ends up coming again at some point. Looking forward to read your books, they are coming this Christmas
I understand I'm a bit late, anyway I'd like to know if there's some risk in doing stretching right after climbing: when I was beginning to climb they told me it's a traumatic sport and stretching right after it may damage the muscles... was it just an urban myth?
Dave - its nice to find someone who dislikes the overheated training rooms as much as myself - not sure but I think it's a Scottish thing, were a bit strange like that. Just a suggestion - I'd be super interested in watching a live stream of you training at some point. Could be fun to see how long it takes you to drink the tea before it gets cold
Hi Dave, Another great video, do you think you could do one on periodised training as this is a topic widely talked about in Training For Climbing. I spend a lot of time just bouldering and I do feel that I start to get finger sprains after around 3 months of bouldering. Is this a thing or should you be able to train bouldering all the time?
Hi dave. Class advice once again. Loving the vlogs. My question is, do you have regular massages? I've recently up my training and was making good gains. But suddenly had the tightest shoulders in the world. I couldn't even raise arms out to the side above horizontal. With loads of pain. Went for a massage last night and was told my back is like a car crash... and that regular massage is what I need. I feel a lot better today but still stiff. And I've booked another session. I know every body is different but how many a year would be a good measure. Long winded I know but not trained for 2 weeks and I'm going mad. Cheers.
I have never had a massage. No need. You back is not meant to hurt. Massage is a useful tool to ease the symptoms enough to start some treatment (physiotherapy), but is not itself a treatment, just a band aid.
I would also add that for some people it is helpful to do some band work for injury prevention in the shoulders, elbows, etc before getting on the wall.
He kind of did add that, by saying if there is any underlying health condition then you might need more specific routines (or something along those lines)
hmm so, i warm up by doing normal exercises to get my body ready, moving a little bit to get my joints going, which takes about 5 Minutes. After that, i do 5 of the easiest climbs (one minute rest in between), and go up the grades from there, 5 boulders each, increasing the rest by one minute. I often end up at 5c-6b boulders, at about 40 minutes or so. Which still is easy for me.. so my warm up is about 45 minutes, after which i just climb 45 minutes at max.. Still, i get injured really frequently, for example, i injured my finger 2 weeks ago. took a rest, healed my finger well enough to climb. Yesterday, i decided to try climbing again. My finger feels great, but at the end, after a 55 Minute warm up, i tried one boulder which was maybe 6b+, and injured my wrist immediately. Things like that happen to me all the time, thats why my climbing mostly is warming up by now, but it doesn‘t really seem to help. I know that i could climb 6c, but i‘m afraid of trying hard, because i know i will injure myself. Been climbing for a year, injured for most of it.. Had to take a lot of months of rest. I only climbed 2 times a week when i started, because i injured myself way too easily when i tried to go one time more than that. Right now, i go 3 times a week, if i‘m not injured, and climb for at max 2 hours, where i warm up for 45-55 Minutes and always have 4 Minutes if rest between tries, if i climb „hard“. I‘ll see a doctor again soon. I‘ve been curious if my body just heals extremely slowly, for a while now. Does anyone have any experience with being super prone to injury? I‘ll try to climb only 6a at max from now on, for a few months, than limit myself to 6b, for a few months.. I feel like, my tendons need a lot of time to get used to climbing a litte harder than 6b+.. I flash most of 6b+, when i try them.. so i suppose that i have a big gab between my tendon strength and climbing ability.. Happy about any kind of advise on how i could prepare my body to climbing, so i can climb without being worried about getting injured all the time..
Lack of warm up plays only a permissive role in injury occurrence, generally speaking. In other words, your issue is highly unlikely to be related to your warm-up. It is far more likely to be related to your technique especially footwork, your basic level of conditioning, the quality of your recovery, sleep and especially diet. Most of these aspects are covered in Make or Break.
Dave MacLeod thank you for the reply. Technique: I‘m focusing a lot on technique recently, and think that my footwork is pretty good right now. recovery & sleep: I thought so too, so i took half a gab year from uni for this semester, sleeping at least 8 hours every day and reducing stress as much as possible 🤔 diet: I eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, make sure to get enough carbohydrates, protein and fat and also count my calories to make sure that i have enough calorie intake to ensure an optimal recovery.. i‘m not sure i understand, what „level of conditioning“ means. Overall, i think i‘m doing a great job, but probably not a good enough job.. i‘ll see a few doctors next week. Maybe that‘ll clarify some things. As a dyslexic, books unfortunately aren‘t necessarily an option for me. But if nothing else helps, i‘ll give „Make or Break“ a try.
@@SnowmansApartment Conditioning basically means level of general body strength, mobility and agility. How often are you eating red meat esp on the bone? It seems that many athletes may be short on collagen/collagen substrates and a host of other nutrients.
Dave MacLeod in terms of conditioning, my tendon strength is probably my most obvious weakness. I definitely feel like my tendons hurt easily and recover pretty slowly. Thats an interesting point. I stopped eating red meats quite a while ago but eat a lot of salmon and eggs, which seem also to be good sources collagen. Still, i should definitely check if i lack any crucial nutritions.
Discussed this in my How to Hangboard video, from memory. Sudden loading or rotational instability of the fingers that didn't slip, additional stretching of already stretched lumbricals etc.
dave everybody's loving the more frequent uploads! you're a legend mate its always so helpful to hear any advice from you i almost always try to implement some sort of change after watching your videos.
I think beginners can benefit from wearing the rock shoes while warming up for 2 reasons: 1. it’s a great opportunity to work on placing the feet and 2. If your foot slips you can shock load a finger that isn’t ready to take that load
Love that you are making shorter videos in greater volume, and really focusing on concisely portraying the message.
“I’m dave and warm up on 8a+, time for some hard (not hardER, just hard) problems”
My warm-up is a bit weird. I make my coffee and go to my garage, where my personal tension board is, then i watch some Dave MacLeod, EKB, Mellow, Bouldering Bobats, Epic or Sasha Digiulian climbing 5.14d like it's a warm-up. I drink my coffee and do some 3 finger pull-ups slowly while i finish my coffee. Then i head to the climbing gym(24 minute commute). I usually spend 2-3 hours there 2-3 times a week. I find that getting my psych up, by watching such inspirational and motivated people, really keeps my personal motivation at a high. Thanks Dave, another great vid.
You've just made me remember about how when I was a teen and before I went skating I would always watch my fave skate vids before heading out, to get myself psyched up. However, this is something I've forgotten about with climbing! Thanks for reminding me :)
My schedule is weirdly similar
Grats Woot I'm a bit the same, I make a cup of coffee or tea and psych myself up with videos on the way to the gym (public transit, don't drive distracted!). Then I do some easy bouldering V0-V2 for around 8ish boulders, move up to V3-V5 for around 6-8 more (almost always climbs I've already done, too), then I move on to projecting:
I'm on my way to go climbing, perfect timing Dave!
Cody Heiner me too. My gym is open until midnight.
The real challenge is warming up outdoors. Quite often there are no easy routes, not even a flat surface for a few push-ups and jumping jacks. You also get cold during breaks or belaying. I’ve started doing (unloaded) squats to at least get the heart rate up and get warm.
C4HP finds a solid jug down low and does some low intensity hangs to wake up the finger tendons outdoors - pretty smart!
Hi Dave! Thanks for the Vid, hugely helpful 🙏
I remember watching a video by Jeff Cavalere (athleanX) where he referenced a study done on stretching before working out. It was something like: stretching for a minute or more before working out significantly reduces force output on said muscle group/s... the reason being that you elongate the muscles with long duration holds and so the brain isn't going through the same 'rehearsed' movement patterns, it removes the nuerological strength component.. it was something along those lines anyway 😅 don't quote me on it, I didn't even see the study!
Cheers for this excellent warm up strategy, especially the part about using the warm up as a tool to asses recovery and determine the workout thereafter 🙌
I thought everything has already been said about warm-ups. Thank you for another informative post.
How can someone dislike this?
Dave, your channel is a gift ! Keep being awesome !
Brilliant, great to see your approach to warming up!!!
Do you follow a similar approach outdoors? I‘m thinking about all those boulders where there‘s not a lot of easy terrain to warm up on...
thanks again for the great content!!
A lot of people ask me that. Follow up on the way with how to warm up when there are no warm up climbs. Again pretty simple! Hang, then bits of moves, then moves, then more moves.
It's the cleanest training wall I've ever seen
I’d sort that squeaky garage door out pal
Its days are numbered.
Hi Dave, how do you apply these warm up principles at the crag? Especially a crag without any 'easy' climbing available? Could you warm up multiple times during a day outside if you have long rest periods?
Follow up episode on this coming.
When Dave says his circuit is 8a/8a+, is he using route grades (because the circuit is many moves) or boulder grades (because he is bouldering it)?
The sound of your garage door rolling up was extremely unpleasant and cloud compared to your voice. Review your audio next time you make a video
Awesome. I'm looking to get both of your two books this holiday season and I was wondering the best way for me to purchase them. I am in United states and dont use the Euro. I was wondering if I order on amazon if you will still make the same profit. I want to support you becuase I very much enjoy the content but it seems easiest to just order from amazon. Any suggestion?
Thanks for the thought. Better for us to order from davemacleod.com We ship books and hangboards to the US every day. The usual range of options for paying on my site. We don't use the Euro either!
Finally got that orange! Is it that same as the one you mentioned in a previous video not being able to link? Someone was asking how you warm up for such a climb on a previous video (the one with the broken hold), might be a coincidence, but it's really cool to see that your content is coming from the fans!
Well spotted!
th-cam.com/video/VTQcfF4cVj8/w-d-xo.html for those interested.
When do you do antagonistic exercises Dave? As a separate session rather than as part of warm up? I'm presuming you need to do lots of push ups and the like to keep your body balanced?
I wouldn't really do strength exercises as part of my warm-up. I need to warm-up first! So I do them along with my other strength exercises after the warm-up. Yes I do push-ups and other exercises several times a week.
Awesome content Dave. I also judge my performance on my warm up & adjust my workout to suit.
Would be good if you could do a video on training for lead climbing endurance in a bouldering gym ?
I hope he sees that comment !
Thanks for the video. Do you think that dinamic stretching (I mean stretching for short period of time) after warming up doing some easy moves at the wall could be beneficial for those like me that feel a lot of tension on the trapezius muscle as in my case and tend to have knots in that area? Now that Im recovering from an injury in that muscle I feel safer and less likely to have an injury if I release a bit of tension from the muscle before training hard. Would love to see your stretching routine as well. Thank you very much and sorry for my english if I express myself bad
Dynamic stretching does not release tension in the muscle. It would be much better just to address and resolve the painful trapezius and not to have to work around it all the time. Many years ago I went through a period of having pain in the trapezius and other muscles i the area. In my research for Make or Break I found that just some really basic shoulder exercises resolved it completely.
I will definitely look for that. Physiotherapy have helped me but the pain ends up coming again at some point. Looking forward to read your books, they are coming this Christmas
Great vid
I understand I'm a bit late, anyway I'd like to know if there's some risk in doing stretching right after climbing: when I was beginning to climb they told me it's a traumatic sport and stretching right after it may damage the muscles... was it just an urban myth?
Happy Thanksgiving Dave.great videos keep uploading please
Very similar to my warmups. Just gradually work your way up to project level.
Tea instead of coffee. I despair.
Nice to have a "training" video that keeps it simple and focuses on the right attitude rather than rigid procedures.
I’m so stoked to hear this! I love the routine of drinking water/tea to hydrate before climbing.
Dave - its nice to find someone who dislikes the overheated training rooms as much as myself - not sure but I think it's a Scottish thing, were a bit strange like that. Just a suggestion - I'd be super interested in watching a live stream of you training at some point. Could be fun to see how long it takes you to drink the tea before it gets cold
Just ordered your climbing injury book, keep up the killer work!
Hi Dave, Another great video, do you think you could do one on periodised training as this is a topic widely talked about in Training For Climbing. I spend a lot of time just bouldering and I do feel that I start to get finger sprains after around 3 months of bouldering. Is this a thing or should you be able to train bouldering all the time?
Hey Dave nice video , do you realize you always on one leg when you climbing ?
Thanks. I like this approach, I tend to overlook warmup because I find out to boring to do stuff that's not on the wall.
Nice video! Maybe we’re related! (I’m a MacLeod)
Thanks for sharing Dave! As a beginner your videos are a massive influence on my climbing.
One of the best advices is just "listen to your body"! Nice and smooth video, really cool.
Thanks climbing dad
Hi dave. Class advice once again. Loving the vlogs. My question is, do you have regular massages? I've recently up my training and was making good gains. But suddenly had the tightest shoulders in the world. I couldn't even raise arms out to the side above horizontal. With loads of pain. Went for a massage last night and was told my back is like a car crash... and that regular massage is what I need. I feel a lot better today but still stiff. And I've booked another session. I know every body is different but how many a year would be a good measure. Long winded I know but not trained for 2 weeks and I'm going mad. Cheers.
I have never had a massage. No need. You back is not meant to hurt. Massage is a useful tool to ease the symptoms enough to start some treatment (physiotherapy), but is not itself a treatment, just a band aid.
Is it not advantageous to warm up your climbing room to like 15 degrees or something?
No my favoured temp is around zero. I can warm my body up, no need to warm up the whole building.
I would also add that for some people it is helpful to do some band work for injury prevention in the shoulders, elbows, etc before getting on the wall.
He kind of did add that, by saying if there is any underlying health condition then you might need more specific routines (or something along those lines)
hmm so, i warm up by doing normal exercises to get my body ready, moving a little bit to get my joints going, which takes about 5 Minutes. After that, i do 5 of the easiest climbs (one minute rest in between), and go up the grades from there, 5 boulders each, increasing the rest by one minute.
I often end up at 5c-6b boulders, at about 40 minutes or so. Which still is easy for me..
so my warm up is about 45 minutes, after which i just climb 45 minutes at max..
Still, i get injured really frequently, for example, i injured my finger 2 weeks ago. took a rest, healed my finger well enough to climb. Yesterday, i decided to try climbing again. My finger feels great, but at the end, after a 55 Minute warm up, i tried one boulder which was maybe 6b+, and injured my wrist immediately.
Things like that happen to me all the time, thats why my climbing mostly is warming up by now, but it doesn‘t really seem to help.
I know that i could climb 6c, but i‘m afraid of trying hard, because i know i will injure myself.
Been climbing for a year, injured for most of it.. Had to take a lot of months of rest.
I only climbed 2 times a week when i started, because i injured myself way too easily when i tried to go one time more than that.
Right now, i go 3 times a week, if i‘m not injured, and climb for at max 2 hours, where i warm up for 45-55 Minutes and always have 4 Minutes if rest between tries, if i climb „hard“.
I‘ll see a doctor again soon. I‘ve been curious if my body just heals extremely slowly, for a while now. Does anyone have any experience with being super prone to injury?
I‘ll try to climb only 6a at max from now on, for a few months, than limit myself to 6b, for a few months..
I feel like, my tendons need a lot of time to get used to climbing a litte harder than 6b+..
I flash most of 6b+, when i try them.. so i suppose that i have a big gab between my tendon strength and climbing ability..
Happy about any kind of advise on how i could prepare my body to climbing, so i can climb without being worried about getting injured all the time..
Lack of warm up plays only a permissive role in injury occurrence, generally speaking. In other words, your issue is highly unlikely to be related to your warm-up. It is far more likely to be related to your technique especially footwork, your basic level of conditioning, the quality of your recovery, sleep and especially diet. Most of these aspects are covered in Make or Break.
Dave MacLeod thank you for the reply.
Technique: I‘m focusing a lot on technique recently, and think that my footwork is pretty good right now.
recovery & sleep: I thought so too, so i took half a gab year from uni for this semester, sleeping at least 8 hours every day and reducing stress as much as possible 🤔
diet: I eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, make sure to get enough carbohydrates, protein and fat and also count my calories to make sure that i have enough calorie intake to ensure an optimal recovery..
i‘m not sure i understand, what „level of conditioning“ means.
Overall, i think i‘m doing a great job, but probably not a good enough job..
i‘ll see a few doctors next week. Maybe that‘ll clarify some things.
As a dyslexic, books unfortunately aren‘t necessarily an option for me. But if nothing else helps, i‘ll give „Make or Break“ a try.
@@SnowmansApartment Conditioning basically means level of general body strength, mobility and agility. How often are you eating red meat esp on the bone? It seems that many athletes may be short on collagen/collagen substrates and a host of other nutrients.
Dave MacLeod in terms of conditioning, my tendon strength is probably my most obvious weakness. I definitely feel like my tendons hurt easily and recover pretty slowly.
Thats an interesting point. I stopped eating red meats quite a while ago but eat a lot of salmon and eggs, which seem also to be good sources collagen. Still, i should definitely check if i lack any crucial nutritions.
Good vid. Thanks!
Dave, can you explain why slipping on greasy holds is so dangerous? Is it just particularly bad on the fingers to dry fire when going for a move?
Because you load the other fingers really fast and if you don't expect it it could be pretty bad
Discussed this in my How to Hangboard video, from memory. Sudden loading or rotational instability of the fingers that didn't slip, additional stretching of already stretched lumbricals etc.
First? Just about to go climb!
Magnus Midtbo never warms up and he never got injured.