Looking forward to your nutrition episodes as I've just started experimenting with my diet. Great advice on sleep and what to do in down time. Motivated to sort out my bad habits in this area.
So true! I sprained my ankle early August so all I was doing was Fingerboard and pull ups. By September I went back to all my projects and sent them within a week.
Hope your recovery is complete. I found this really interesting, and I’ve just ordered your book off Amazon. I’ve been struggling with a bad injury on my ankle that’s been dogging me for several years. Was caused by an Osteopath twisting the ankle severely. My primary sport was off road marathon’s and ultras and I haven’t been able to do them, but I am getting treatment and gradually improving with very short runs. Also badly affecting my climbing through ankle strength, range of movement and pain, but as much as anything fear of landing on it bouldering or at wall. Anyway, really liked your tips on recovery and positive attitude. Cheers.
Hey Dave thanks for sharing this. I injured my elbow back in November lifting some very heavy firewood rounds into the truck bed. Took a few days to accept the injury. I decided to keep climbing and avoid any movement that engaged the injured tissue. Im 47 and its just now (three months later) feeling like full power has returned. Thanks for all the reminders!! Im slowly starting to see injury in a different light. Be well all.
I'd highly recommend Mendeley as a way to organise research papers, Dave. It saved my life during my PhD while I was drowning in citations and references. It's fantastic software and will organise many of the papers without a lot of input (relatively speaking). Great video as always. Thanks. Matt @ ME
I am currently focussing more on climbing than bouldering after tearing two ligaments in my foot in November and pausing climbing for two months. I did a lot of basic exercises for the foot after two or three weeks after the fall and it helped a lot in maintaining and did even increase my leg strength. The hardest part is the head and pushing yourself again to try certain movements. The rope gives me the security I need atm and the next step will be including some jumping exercises and jumping of a boulder from different heights to get the barrier out of my head. The brain really is the most important muscle in recovery and how you handle an injury.
Brilliant video - I've been waiting for a 'now what?' after an injury one... but hoping that you didn't have to be injured to make it. It's disgusting that you're injured but still FAed a 7c! Get Mendeley and organise your papers with that! It's a free reference managing software.
When I had a severe ankle sprain I massively upped my campusing, fingerboarding and campus boarding,.....I got strong...but watch out I got a pulley strain from overuse.
In Make or Break, you mention pushups as a remedy for brachialis tendon strain. What's the rationale behind that? They seem like different muscles? Have you accumulated any more knowledge involving this injury since writing your book?
Broke my tibia, tore the meniscus and pcl three months ago. I started my upper body training three/four weeks post accident and now i am now stronger than ever. Well, at least my upper body :D Still have to do loads of squats to get the knee stable again.
hi dave, cheers for the vid, I'm at home resting an injury....... if you are compiling many files on a PC I can wholly reccommend buying a 43" monitor..... I had about 40,000 photos to sort out last year and after pleaty of research, I bought a Dell P4317Q (43 inch) Ultra HD 4K Multi-Client Monitor (about £600 new) Oh joy of joys...... long lists and massive filling suddenly really easy, no scrollin etc. You need a reasonably modern laptop to run the 4k though.... well worth the money...... probably 10 x faster than with a 32" monitor and much less demoralising than with just a laptop!
Hello Dave, do you think you'll do the "leg trim" video that you said you were gonna make? Before I started climbing I was a 100m sprinter and I'd love to shed some of that useless muscle, any advice in general would also be appreciated :)
Oh yeah I will don't worry. I'm kind of only just finished the wash out really. It's kind of important to see if any/all of the changes just reverse within months.
It's too late for you guys unless you go to outer space 😉 but seriously speaking don't worry about it. Just love your climbing and learn technique. I am sure you are well fit and strong and that's the only good thing and I would never get worried too much about your muscles mass. It will sort itself out over time once you stop exercises that build it I think and things like mental aspect, technique and tactics are equally important like strength to weight ratio. Improving all aspects of climbing simultaneously will get you furthest. Just my opinion. Happy climbing!
Hey Matti. I was like you when I was a young lad as a sprinter (10.8 pb) when I took up climbing as a hobby. I have climbed for the last 20 years now and I can say that if you keep climbing your legs will disappear, unless you are lifting weights with them. Currently I’m am doing just that to get them back! I got tired of having little chicken legs and I’m willing to sacrifice not being able to climb 5.14 anymore while enjoying being a dad while still able to pull hard. Moral of story. Just enjoy getting stronger as you pick up the sport and your body with morph into the shape of a climber.
Also Dave, have you talked about how one should go about specifically training and then applying the full crimp position? I try to almost always opt for a grip safer on the pulleys (open or half-crimp) but there are some times when a full crimp seems to be the only way to go, e.g. because of the size and angle of the hold/edge. However, since I never train the full crimp, I never feel totally confident when trying to use it.
Good evening Dave! I was wondering if you are willing to share the various devices used to record yourself and document your climbs; specifically on the occasion of making these vlogs. Specifics could include: sound recorder, microphone set up, camera and lens configuration. Thanks and as always love the video!
Oh sure. Sony A7III for most things (although maybe not for much longer) with a couple of different Canon lenses. Occasional GoPro 8, Mavic 2 Pro, Wireless Go mic, occasional Sony compact footage with Tascam DR10 mic if I'm fully loaded with kit.
I have a similar injury at the moment. The right arm but the same muscle (as i am guessing) and i have pain when i pull up further than 90 degree. I'm just not sure what to do actually, resting is of course the best idea but i am just not happy without climbing at some times^^
Hey Dave, just wondering if you had any views on Voodoo Flossing for elbow injuries? I noticed it wasn't in your book but after 4 months of eccentrics, for me it seems to have been the missing link to do alongside
I went down a deep internet hole trying to answer this question. I believe it just means bouldering without using your feet (letting them hang). I've always used the term "Campus Bouldering" or just "Campusing" for this.
@@kar0x I've heard/read Dave indicate that foot-off bouldering isn't the same as campusing. Maybe when he says "campusing" he means "using a campus board".
@@davidmyers7508 Yeah I've heard Dave indicate that there's a difference between campusing and foot-off bouldering, but I suppose when Dave says "campusing" he means specifically doing it on a campus board.
Dave, really enjoy your channel. I had been using your book to aggressively rehab my golfers elbow. I was able to get back climbing pretty quickly as a result. Unfortunately, I took a bad fall and fractured my L1 vertebrae. Now I’ve got two injuries to rehab. After the fall I searched your book for advice on spinal compression fractures, but couldn’t find anything. :-( I’m doing some low impact cardio but eager to get back on the rock. Any advice for back injuries?
Hard lines on the double injury. I haven't spent a lot of time studying traumatic back injuries. Proceed under the guidance of your orthopaedic surgeon and physio. But like most of Make or Break the principles are similar for facilitating healing.
Do you ever plan in deload weeks/periods into your training? This is quite common in weight training (like powerlifting) where a meso-cycle of several weeks of progressing load is capped by a week(ish) of lower load training. Mike Tuscherer has some great insights into auto-regulating when to do this. This opposed to a 'forced deload' like the one you have now.
what about wrist injuries? mine is luckily getting better, but I had to take 1.5 weeks off and am longing to climb again... what kinds of training would you recommend?
Hey, i've got a question considering sleep. We have a 1 year old daughter who is sleeping in pur room which leads to me neither getting close 8hrs of sleep nor having quality sleep. You've got any tips how to cope with a situation like this?
This used to drive me crazy I used to get several colds every year but thankfully now haven't had any since 2016. It depends how bad it is, but yes if it's bad then it's usually better just to rest.
Heii Dave - good luck with your recovery! I do have a question for you.... what are your thoughts about recovering after a long illness... I have serve mononucleosis... now active for almost half a year... have not climbed ever since... How would you start again and be sure not to over do it? With what kind of training would you start?
I don't think it's a good idea to offer a general answer to this it depends on the condition and I have not studied yours. Pubmed + scihub is your weapon to attack the problem!
Hi Dave! Speaking of injuries, what are your thoughts on fingerboarding early(ish) as a climber? I know you've said in other places that the fingerboard is a relatively safe training device, however, I did some fingerboard-training up to 1/4 of my bodyweight while still being a relatively new climber (1½ years), and soon after got a pulley injury in one of my fingers. Some climbers I spoke with thought that it might have come as a result of my hangboarding, since the muscles adapt a lot faster than the tendons and pulleys, which meant that I could pull a lot harder than my fingers could handle. Do you think there's something to this, and that I should stay of hangboarding for some time, or that it's unrelated to my injury?
I can't really answer that without knowing your form on the exercise. Any exercise done with poor form is dangerous. But aside from this I think fingerboarding done properly is broadly speaking a lot safer than climbing. In climbing you jump for holds, feet slip, you use nasty holds etc.
Do you have any guidance on balancing training and sleep, e.g. is there a point where it's more valuable to sleep than train even if you haven't managed to train at all that day (I'm someone who struggles with this most days)?
Oh yeah there is certainly a point where it's better just to sleep. But this should not be happening most days! That sounds like a major scheduling issue that needs addressed. But even in the short term, a lot of useful workout can be fitted into under ten minutes. th-cam.com/video/-diYuavVqzE/w-d-xo.html
Oh yes, but not much this winter since its been an awful winter with very little snow and ice. I find it kind of uninspiring going out in October conditions in February!
Dave does more rock climbing in the rain and snow than most climbers do all season.
Looking forward to your nutrition episodes as I've just started experimenting with my diet. Great advice on sleep and what to do in down time. Motivated to sort out my bad habits in this area.
"Get other stuff done" - thanks, Dave, for the much-needed laugh. You're right.
As always, your attitude & insights are greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Would love to see episodes on the scientific papers!
Best of luck with the recovery Dave! Really unfortunate.
So true! I sprained my ankle early August so all I was doing was Fingerboard and pull ups. By September I went back to all my projects and sent them within a week.
This will surely help me through the heartbreak that follows an inevitable injury
That 7C looked well restful... Cool bloc tho. Useful vid as always.
Hope your recovery is complete. I found this really interesting, and I’ve just ordered your book off Amazon. I’ve been struggling with a bad injury on my ankle that’s been dogging me for several years. Was caused by an Osteopath twisting the ankle severely. My primary sport was off road marathon’s and ultras and I haven’t been able to do them, but I am getting treatment and gradually improving with very short runs. Also badly affecting my climbing through ankle strength, range of movement and pain, but as much as anything fear of landing on it bouldering or at wall. Anyway, really liked your tips on recovery and positive attitude. Cheers.
That sounds tragic mate, hope you're doing better now and shame on that osteopath
Thanks as always for this informative video.
Excellent as always, thank you Dave. I'm going to have a nap right now.
Insightful as always. I'm very much looking forward to more scientific content!
Great job, realy usefull and ispiring as usual. Hope you can rehab well and .. write a book about nutrition soon !!!
Can't wait to see you start tackling those papers! Good stuff all around!
Wonderful video! Just broke my hand and I have surgery coming up. This video helps keep my focus. Being injured sucks
Hey Dave thanks for sharing this. I injured my elbow back in November lifting some very heavy firewood rounds into the truck bed. Took a few days to accept the injury. I decided to keep climbing and avoid any movement that engaged the injured tissue. Im 47 and its just now (three months later) feeling like full power has returned. Thanks for all the reminders!! Im slowly starting to see injury in a different light. Be well all.
Hope you get better soon.
I'd highly recommend Mendeley as a way to organise research papers, Dave. It saved my life during my PhD while I was drowning in citations and references. It's fantastic software and will organise many of the papers without a lot of input (relatively speaking). Great video as always. Thanks. Matt @ ME
New zone looks good.
Sage advice as always
I am currently focussing more on climbing than bouldering after tearing two ligaments in my foot in November and pausing climbing for two months. I did a lot of basic exercises for the foot after two or three weeks after the fall and it helped a lot in maintaining and did even increase my leg strength.
The hardest part is the head and pushing yourself again to try certain movements. The rope gives me the security I need atm and the next step will be including some jumping exercises and jumping of a boulder from different heights to get the barrier out of my head. The brain really is the most important muscle in recovery and how you handle an injury.
Hi Dave. I can highly recommend EndNote for organising papers. Works on desktop/ tablet. Has transformed my research.
Brilliant video - I've been waiting for a 'now what?' after an injury one... but hoping that you didn't have to be injured to make it.
It's disgusting that you're injured but still FAed a 7c!
Get Mendeley and organise your papers with that! It's a free reference managing software.
I've used Endnote for years and happy enough with that.
I feel like you're telling a story with these titles.
Vlog 42 - show up!
Vlog 43 - get injured and leave!
LOL, so all I need to do is get injured, get rid of my family since I'm done with school, then I'll make serious gains. ;-) j/k
When I had a severe ankle sprain I massively upped my campusing, fingerboarding and campus boarding,.....I got strong...but watch out I got a pulley strain from overuse.
Hey Dave, can you address wrist injuries in a future episode? thanks!
In Make or Break, you mention pushups as a remedy for brachialis tendon strain. What's the rationale behind that? They seem like different muscles? Have you accumulated any more knowledge involving this injury since writing your book?
Broke my tibia, tore the meniscus and pcl three months ago. I started my upper body training three/four weeks post accident and now i am now stronger than ever. Well, at least my upper body :D Still have to do loads of squats to get the knee stable again.
hi dave, cheers for the vid, I'm at home resting an injury....... if you are compiling many files on a PC I can wholly reccommend buying a 43" monitor..... I had about 40,000 photos to sort out last year and after pleaty of research, I bought a Dell P4317Q (43 inch) Ultra HD 4K Multi-Client Monitor (about £600 new) Oh joy of joys...... long lists and massive filling suddenly really easy, no scrollin etc. You need a reasonably modern laptop to run the 4k though.... well worth the money...... probably 10 x faster than with a 32" monitor and much less demoralising than with just a laptop!
Hello Dave, do you think you'll do the "leg trim" video that you said you were gonna make? Before I started climbing I was a 100m sprinter and I'd love to shed some of that useless muscle, any advice in general would also be appreciated :)
As a former weightlifter, I'd second this!
Oh yeah I will don't worry. I'm kind of only just finished the wash out really. It's kind of important to see if any/all of the changes just reverse within months.
It's too late for you guys unless you go to outer space 😉 but seriously speaking don't worry about it. Just love your climbing and learn technique. I am sure you are well fit and strong and that's the only good thing and I would never get worried too much about your muscles mass. It will sort itself out over time once you stop exercises that build it I think and things like mental aspect, technique and tactics are equally important like strength to weight ratio. Improving all aspects of climbing simultaneously will get you furthest. Just my opinion. Happy climbing!
Hey Matti. I was like you when I was a young lad as a sprinter (10.8 pb) when I took up climbing as a hobby. I have climbed for the last 20 years now and I can say that if you keep climbing your legs will disappear, unless you are lifting weights with them. Currently I’m am doing just that to get them back! I got tired of having little chicken legs and I’m willing to sacrifice not being able to climb 5.14 anymore while enjoying being a dad while still able to pull hard.
Moral of story. Just enjoy getting stronger as you pick up the sport and your body with morph into the shape of a climber.
@@paulwilliam6180 Alrighty thanks, thats motivating! I never made it below 11s!
Sort of demoralising that people can boulder 7c with a dodgy elbow. I can't get near that fully fit in good weather :-)
This is actually pretty good weather for a boulder :D
Also Dave, have you talked about how one should go about specifically training and then applying the full crimp position? I try to almost always opt for a grip safer on the pulleys (open or half-crimp) but there are some times when a full crimp seems to be the only way to go, e.g. because of the size and angle of the hold/edge. However, since I never train the full crimp, I never feel totally confident when trying to use it.
Wish I could get 9 hours sleep! on a very good night I manage 6. Night shifts and climbing is hard ok for paragliding through
I will trade You
Good evening Dave! I was wondering if you are willing to share the various devices used to record yourself and document your climbs; specifically on the occasion of making these vlogs. Specifics could include: sound recorder, microphone set up, camera and lens configuration. Thanks and as always love the video!
Oh sure. Sony A7III for most things (although maybe not for much longer) with a couple of different Canon lenses. Occasional GoPro 8, Mavic 2 Pro, Wireless Go mic, occasional Sony compact footage with Tascam DR10 mic if I'm fully loaded with kit.
@@climbermacleod Great! Thank you for sharing
I have a similar injury at the moment. The right arm but the same muscle (as i am guessing) and i have pain when i pull up further than 90 degree. I'm just not sure what to do actually, resting is of course the best idea but i am just not happy without climbing at some times^^
What, Dave is lethal?!
DYI is the most dangerous part of life... I am experienced unfortunately. Afterwards you think "how could I be so stupid?again"
Hey Dave, just wondering if you had any views on Voodoo Flossing for elbow injuries? I noticed it wasn't in your book but after 4 months of eccentrics, for me it seems to have been the missing link to do alongside
Thank you for this video Dave. How long did it take for you in total to recover from this injury?
Dave, what exactly is foot-off bouldering? I’ve heard you mention it many times but I have no idea what exactly it is.
campusing boulders, not using your feet on overhanging boulders
I went down a deep internet hole trying to answer this question. I believe it just means bouldering without using your feet (letting them hang). I've always used the term "Campus Bouldering" or just "Campusing" for this.
@@kar0x I've heard/read Dave indicate that foot-off bouldering isn't the same as campusing. Maybe when he says "campusing" he means "using a campus board".
@@davidmyers7508 Yeah I've heard Dave indicate that there's a difference between campusing and foot-off bouldering, but I suppose when Dave says "campusing" he means specifically doing it on a campus board.
@@bboyHarrypotter Just doing boulder problems without your feet.
Dave, really enjoy your channel. I had been using your book to aggressively rehab my golfers elbow. I was able to get back climbing pretty quickly as a result. Unfortunately, I took a bad fall and fractured my L1 vertebrae. Now I’ve got two injuries to rehab. After the fall I searched your book for advice on spinal compression fractures, but couldn’t find anything. :-( I’m doing some low impact cardio but eager to get back on the rock. Any advice for back injuries?
Hard lines on the double injury. I haven't spent a lot of time studying traumatic back injuries. Proceed under the guidance of your orthopaedic surgeon and physio. But like most of Make or Break the principles are similar for facilitating healing.
Do you ever plan in deload weeks/periods into your training? This is quite common in weight training (like powerlifting) where a meso-cycle of several weeks of progressing load is capped by a week(ish) of lower load training. Mike Tuscherer has some great insights into auto-regulating when to do this. This opposed to a 'forced deload' like the one you have now.
Oh yes, but no need to plan these. The Scottish weather schedules them regularly for me.
what about wrist injuries? mine is luckily getting better, but I had to take 1.5 weeks off and am longing to climb again... what kinds of training would you recommend?
Hey, i've got a question considering sleep. We have a 1 year old daughter who is sleeping in pur room which leads to me neither getting close 8hrs of sleep nor having quality sleep. You've got any tips how to cope with a situation like this?
Hey dave, what are your thoughts on training when you have the flu or a cold. I find if I exercise during this then it prolongs things.
This used to drive me crazy I used to get several colds every year but thankfully now haven't had any since 2016. It depends how bad it is, but yes if it's bad then it's usually better just to rest.
@@climbermacleod I'm in that situation now and it really annoys me. Do you know what change you made that left you cold/flu free for the past years?
@@climbermacleod Better health from more sleeping, or better diet?
@@LZmiljoona I cannot be sure but its difficult to conclude anything other than diet change.
@@climbermacleod great video , can you do a video on your diet change ? / sorry if you already have 👍
Heii Dave - good luck with your recovery!
I do have a question for you.... what are your thoughts about recovering after a long illness... I have serve mononucleosis... now active for almost half a year... have not climbed ever since...
How would you start again and be sure not to over do it? With what kind of training would you start?
I don't think it's a good idea to offer a general answer to this it depends on the condition and I have not studied yours. Pubmed + scihub is your weapon to attack the problem!
Hey Dave! Have you tried a free tool like Mendeley to help organise the papers? It's a life saver
I've been using Endnote for many years, so well used to that.
Hi Dave! Speaking of injuries, what are your thoughts on fingerboarding early(ish) as a climber? I know you've said in other places that the fingerboard is a relatively safe training device, however, I did some fingerboard-training up to 1/4 of my bodyweight while still being a relatively new climber (1½ years), and soon after got a pulley injury in one of my fingers. Some climbers I spoke with thought that it might have come as a result of my hangboarding, since the muscles adapt a lot faster than the tendons and pulleys, which meant that I could pull a lot harder than my fingers could handle. Do you think there's something to this, and that I should stay of hangboarding for some time, or that it's unrelated to my injury?
I can't really answer that without knowing your form on the exercise. Any exercise done with poor form is dangerous. But aside from this I think fingerboarding done properly is broadly speaking a lot safer than climbing. In climbing you jump for holds, feet slip, you use nasty holds etc.
That boulder in any guide dave??
www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=25517#overview
Do you have any guidance on balancing training and sleep, e.g. is there a point where it's more valuable to sleep than train even if you haven't managed to train at all that day (I'm someone who struggles with this most days)?
Oh yeah there is certainly a point where it's better just to sleep. But this should not be happening most days! That sounds like a major scheduling issue that needs addressed. But even in the short term, a lot of useful workout can be fitted into under ten minutes. th-cam.com/video/-diYuavVqzE/w-d-xo.html
Climb at 1:33 is sick!
Alex Stoll www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=473012
Are you still doing winter climbing?
Oh yes, but not much this winter since its been an awful winter with very little snow and ice. I find it kind of uninspiring going out in October conditions in February!
Being into BJJ and trying to climb is imposssible.
Dave, you're probably aware of tools like Zotero for organizing your research, but if by chance not, they'll save you some work.
I use endnote.
Will you be my father?
Now we can see, You are also human too LOL
Hey Dave, Mendeley is a really good piece of software to organise papers