From my own observations in the past months of training & projecting a boulder, I‘d say that the same is true for the more max power / fingerstrength challenges in bouldering. I usually get 1 day on the project per week. When I started adding a „priming“ session of short & hard bouldering the day before, my proj sessions tended to be dramatically and consistently better than the classical „rest day before performance day“ approach. Would love to hear your experts‘ thoughts on this!!! thanks for the awesome content!!
As usual, another excellent episode 😁 With the research on tapering, I’ve not started looking at it yet, but if anyone else wants to read up on it, the person they’re talking about is Inigo Mujika.
That is so relevant thank you! And awesome videos overall! As a physician i definitely feel mental fatigue and I looove that you guys take all these aspects into consideration and suggest tracking it. :)
Thanks for this nice video. It would have been great to hear from you some tips on how to optimize and improve the recovery between training sessions. For example nutrition, sleep, skin care and so on. If you can recover faster then you can train more often, right? Hope to get more videos like this one from you!
Thanks. Currently working shifts whilst training, so a few good pointers raised there. Block training, and getting my sleep are the big takeaways for me. Keep it up!
Any chance you could go into skin maintenance on one of your episodes? I saw something a while back that you mentioned massage for persistent splits and I’d love to get more details. My skin splits constantly in the same spots
as mentioned by Tom that having an endurance session the day before the power session seems to help some people, i've noticed that for me having a light toprope session the day before my bouldering session seems to help, not sure why but i feel quite a bit more powerful on the second day on if i haven't gone full blast on the first day
Thank you so much, this has been so far the best video I have ever seen in matters of recovery and fatigue. I am a sport or route climber, I personally tried out some long runs and ended up well for the next few days. However I wasn't able to keep that routine for too long. Nevertheless, I would like to know how to keep some endurance while working on other aspects of my climb?
Hugo Moreno probably the best resource for answering this one (as it requires some back and forth) is to come and join our free Facebook community group page 💪💪
very helpful video! I also have a question for you: So i follow you guys for about 1,5years now and i always wanted to buy a trainingsplan. The thing is, i´m injured for the last 4 years continously on atleast 1 finger so i just cannot do it. I would love some insight on how to improve long term injuryrate and just be healthy on every finger at once! I try to achieve this for 4 years now with various approaches and last summer i think Ollie said in a video that for every 3 weeks of hard training you should take 1 week off. Since i inhabited that my fingerhealth improved a lot (i also started twice a week of fingerboarding, so it might also have something to do with that), but even after 9 months of doing that the 1st time i couldnt commit to the restweek because of reasons (routesetter and competition i had to attend and that wasnt planned), which basicly tells me that even tho im doing something right, im still very close to injuring myself even with those 3 weeks on/ 1 week off schedule, so how can i improve of even that? I also bet there are more people like me out there.
groghnash it sounds fair simple (although the fix might not be simple!!) - you’re just doing too much with not enough recovery. Try switching to a 2:1 mesocycle or being extremely vigilant about grip size and type used in training 😊
@@LatticeTraining exactly what i did not want to hear ;-) thank you! so another one then: Where to put my motivation? because there is A LOT i cant just sit still... And i felt weird in those videos with Magnus where you praise him for being able to go all out. If i go all out in fingertraining im injured right that second.
Hey! Just wanted to find out what do you think about static hangboarding vs doing pullups while hangboarding for improving finger strength. What is better?
Maybe not the reply you want, but as a workaround you can use some site you find by googling "TH-cam to mp3" and download the mp3 to listen on your preferred device :)
Love your videos guys, just a question. As a beginner climber for just over 2 months(climbing v3-5) is climbing 4 times a week too much? I've recently suffered an injury (tendon strain?) on my lefthand ring finger after a 2 hour session, and I think I'll have to reconsider my climbing routine after my recovery. I was resting a whole day in between each climbing except from the weekend, and trying not to put too intense climbs back to back on saturday/sunday.
That does sound a lot. In our experience it is ok to climb 4 times a week BUT you should drop 2 days of it to VERY easy climbing so that you're focusing mainly on technique and there is no element of intensity in it. Lots of mobility work too!!
hey guys, i climb twice a week (sun,tues) usually with a rest day(mobility working , hips,upper body , forearms) in between the rest of the days i am conditioning cause i working 12hr nights 6am to 6pm, i wake up at 2pm and do a workout for 1 hr before i have to get ready for work and cook dinner. Was wondering cause i have such a small time frame if lowering the intensity of my workouts is basically the same as a rest day. wed (legs, core,rowing) thur( 1 pull-up variation, max hangs/repeaters, antagonist), fri ( core, elliptical), sat (1 upper body workout - non pull-up, antagonist, HIIT) then back to climbing which i like to do fun climbing with my daughter and cousin. i have been working on power endurance and trying to lean down as i have lost 55lbs since i started rock climbing a yr ago. Is it to much? should i plan for full rest days?or is just lowering the intensity ok for me to train like this? mind you all exercises are linked to the crimpd app but legs
You guys did a video a while ago on a 6 minute at home workout routine. I was wondering about how to structure around that, as in how many days to do the routine. Should it be every day, 1 on 1 off, or stacked 2 on 1 off? Also, is this a workout that you plan to add to the Crimpd app?
this intense, long lasting soreness goes away quickly! I'm barely 2 months in (2x a week) and soreness of the hands/arms has significantly reduced (all soreness has actually, I tend to feel my core the most a day after, instead of arms). It doesn't last so long anymore either. Hope you stuck with it and had/have fun!
Do you guys know much about alcohols impact on training adaptation? I was a pisshead for a long time and was very slow to progress, i'm more or less sober nowadays and find improvements in pretty much every mental aspect, from my headgame to my motivation; was wondering if i might adapt better without the constant influx of IPAs
Technically alcohol is a depressant. And hangovers (as little as they can be, your body is kicking out the alcohol) make your body put effort in fixing that. I would think it makes sense that it affects motivation. There are also periods in life where we are more susceptible to mood changes (stress, actual depression, uncertainty...) which where alcohol could impact more.
Hey, I started climbing 8 months ago, 2 times a week, and I've been trying to get a third training but I always feel completely trashed for two days after. I am in the age group of 16-23, so still very young. Are there any reasons or tips for this? My sessions are usually 2 hours long, climbing at max everytime.
@Begga I found myself in the same situation for a long time. I needed 2 days of rest (sometimes 3! But I'm older, 30-35) after a hard day. I started looking into how much protein I was having everyday (I counted calories and macros for a week) and I realized I was far from having enough (I mostly eat vegetarian). I do sleep around 8h+ every night, so after changing my diet, in just a week I felt my recovery go much faster. Good luck!
Do you guys make some of the data from the crimpd app public? In particular, I'm interested to see how max hang correlates with bouldering grade, of course, relative to weight and height. Like, do taller climbers climb higher grades even though their finger strength is weaker?
@@LatticeTraining Oh that's cool! Unfortunately I dont have access to the lattice rung, is the second smallest edge on beastmaker 1000 (I've heard it's 16-18mm?) equivalent to the small lattice edge?
Suggestions when you can’t even bring yourself to go to the climbing gym? My work has me fatigued and I never feel like climbing anymore. I know I love climbing though, otherwise wouldn’t be watching this 😂
Basically it’s easiest if you can train at home, when you can’t make it to the gym. On the lattice trading vids on TH-cam they now include home training workouts for climbers. Having a pull up bar, finger board and some weights, bands etc you can create your own training environment. There are also core exercises that need no equipment. Ultimately if you can put up some kind of home climbing wall that is ideal, even if it’s quite small!
Extra like for the doggy!
Gugu Pang Finn is loving the new attention 😁
Found you two through Magnus and damn I needed a channel like this!
Welcome!!
Came here for the climbing, stayed for the doggo
Adam Smith 😂
Came for the doggy 🐕
2:15 they have the same expression...
9:52 I always feel primed after an endurance day and someone finally put it into words!
Yup there's a few sections of the climbing population that are like this.... kinda interesting!
From my own observations in the past months of training & projecting a boulder, I‘d say that the same is true for the more max power / fingerstrength challenges in bouldering. I usually get 1 day on the project per week. When I started adding a „priming“ session of short & hard bouldering the day before, my proj sessions tended to be dramatically and consistently better than the classical „rest day before performance day“ approach.
Would love to hear your experts‘ thoughts on this!!! thanks for the awesome content!!
As usual, another excellent episode 😁
With the research on tapering, I’ve not started looking at it yet, but if anyone else wants to read up on it, the person they’re talking about is Inigo Mujika.
That is so relevant thank you! And awesome videos overall! As a physician i definitely feel mental fatigue and I looove that you guys take all these aspects into consideration and suggest tracking it. :)
When he went into work life balance, I started crying
Jenn Sun yeah it’s pretty crucial! 😬
big 4?
Thanks for this nice video. It would have been great to hear from you some tips on how to optimize and improve the recovery between training sessions.
For example nutrition, sleep, skin care and so on. If you can recover faster then you can train more often, right?
Hope to get more videos like this one from you!
Hinz Kunz more coming on this front soon 🤓
Thanks. Currently working shifts whilst training, so a few good pointers raised there. Block training, and getting my sleep are the big takeaways for me.
Keep it up!
22:45 what do you mean w/o the doggy next time? no doggy no like! :o
Ha ha! Ok :-D
Any chance you could go into skin maintenance on one of your episodes? I saw something a while back that you mentioned massage for persistent splits and I’d love to get more details. My skin splits constantly in the same spots
so much valuable information here, thank you!
Fantastic video, thanks!!
as mentioned by Tom that having an endurance session the day before the power session seems to help some people, i've noticed that for me having a light toprope session the day before my bouldering session seems to help, not sure why but i feel quite a bit more powerful on the second day on if i haven't gone full blast on the first day
How do you record all this stuff? Just excel or do you recommend an app for this?
they have an app... Crimpd
Laurens Dewaele yes, get involved with our free Crimpd training app! 💪
Thank you so much, this has been so far the best video I have ever seen in matters of recovery and fatigue. I am a sport or route climber, I personally tried out some long runs and ended up well for the next few days. However I wasn't able to keep that routine for too long.
Nevertheless, I would like to know how to keep some endurance while working on other aspects of my climb?
Hugo Moreno probably the best resource for answering this one (as it requires some back and forth) is to come and join our free Facebook community group page 💪💪
@@LatticeTraining with pleasure, thank you very much!
Fantastic, thank you for this video 👍
Hey I have severe scoliosis and have been wondering what some back excises that won't hurt my back are ?
I'm getting into bouldering, what's the phrase he's saying around 10:30? "Areacap?"
Would like to know too
Also curious
What is meant by "basic conditioning"? It's not Aerocap, and it's not in THE Glossary ;-) But what is it?
very helpful video!
I also have a question for you: So i follow you guys for about 1,5years now and i always wanted to buy a trainingsplan. The thing is, i´m injured for the last 4 years continously on atleast 1 finger so i just cannot do it. I would love some insight on how to improve long term injuryrate and just be healthy on every finger at once! I try to achieve this for 4 years now with various approaches and last summer i think Ollie said in a video that for every 3 weeks of hard training you should take 1 week off. Since i inhabited that my fingerhealth improved a lot (i also started twice a week of fingerboarding, so it might also have something to do with that), but even after 9 months of doing that the 1st time i couldnt commit to the restweek because of reasons (routesetter and competition i had to attend and that wasnt planned), which basicly tells me that even tho im doing something right, im still very close to injuring myself even with those 3 weeks on/ 1 week off schedule, so how can i improve of even that? I also bet there are more people like me out there.
groghnash it sounds fair simple (although the fix might not be simple!!) - you’re just doing too much with not enough recovery. Try switching to a 2:1 mesocycle or being extremely vigilant about grip size and type used in training 😊
@@LatticeTraining exactly what i did not want to hear ;-) thank you! so another one then: Where to put my motivation? because there is A LOT i cant just sit still... And i felt weird in those videos with Magnus where you praise him for being able to go all out. If i go all out in fingertraining im injured right that second.
Came for the tips, but I stayed for the good doggo :3
Hey!
Just wanted to find out what do you think about static hangboarding vs doing pullups while hangboarding for improving finger strength. What is better?
Chris Enderkin static hangboarding for maximum FS gains. Leave the pull ups for a separate set for sure!
will you start uploading these ask lattice series to a podcast?
Maybe not the reply you want, but as a workaround you can use some site you find by googling "TH-cam to mp3" and download the mp3 to listen on your preferred device :)
hyau23 not a specific podcast at the moment. We’re already kinda pushing our time resources 😂
You guys should consider making a podcast!
NEED more time!!!! :-D
Love your videos guys, just a question.
As a beginner climber for just over 2 months(climbing v3-5) is climbing 4 times a week too much? I've recently suffered an injury (tendon strain?) on my lefthand ring finger after a 2 hour session, and I think I'll have to reconsider my climbing routine after my recovery. I was resting a whole day in between each climbing except from the weekend, and trying not to put too intense climbs back to back on saturday/sunday.
That does sound a lot. In our experience it is ok to climb 4 times a week BUT you should drop 2 days of it to VERY easy climbing so that you're focusing mainly on technique and there is no element of intensity in it. Lots of mobility work too!!
hey guys, i climb twice a week (sun,tues) usually with a rest day(mobility working , hips,upper body , forearms) in between the rest of the days i am conditioning cause i working 12hr nights 6am to 6pm, i wake up at 2pm and do a workout for 1 hr before i have to get ready for work and cook dinner. Was wondering cause i have such a small time frame if lowering the intensity of my workouts is basically the same as a rest day. wed (legs, core,rowing) thur( 1 pull-up variation, max hangs/repeaters, antagonist), fri ( core, elliptical), sat (1 upper body workout - non pull-up, antagonist, HIIT) then back to climbing which i like to do fun climbing with my daughter and cousin. i have been working on power endurance and trying to lean down as i have lost 55lbs since i started rock climbing a yr ago. Is it to much? should i plan for full rest days?or is just lowering the intensity ok for me to train like this? mind you all exercises are linked to the crimpd app but legs
You guys did a video a while ago on a 6 minute at home workout routine. I was wondering about how to structure around that, as in how many days to do the routine. Should it be every day, 1 on 1 off, or stacked 2 on 1 off?
Also, is this a workout that you plan to add to the Crimpd app?
At very most, it's probably only appropriate to do every other day. Also, yes, we'll be adding this to the app :-)
@@LatticeTraining excellent, thank you so much!
If your willie isn't up first thing in the morning regularly, then go for that rest day.
I need help my gym opens at 2 and I go home at 7 or 8ish. I train at least 5 days a week. What's ideal for a climber like me?
What is a "recovery run?" I have never heard of this
Zeke The Taco Master it’s a very easy, mod-to-long jog at a pace where you can happily talk at the same time.
Day 3 and my forearms and hands are still killing me…this made me rethink climbing
this intense, long lasting soreness goes away quickly! I'm barely 2 months in (2x a week) and soreness of the hands/arms has significantly reduced (all soreness has actually, I tend to feel my core the most a day after, instead of arms). It doesn't last so long anymore either. Hope you stuck with it and had/have fun!
Luv the dog
Do you guys know much about alcohols impact on training adaptation? I was a pisshead for a long time and was very slow to progress, i'm more or less sober nowadays and find improvements in pretty much every mental aspect, from my headgame to my motivation; was wondering if i might adapt better without the constant influx of IPAs
Technically alcohol is a depressant. And hangovers (as little as they can be, your body is kicking out the alcohol) make your body put effort in fixing that. I would think it makes sense that it affects motivation. There are also periods in life where we are more susceptible to mood changes (stress, actual depression, uncertainty...) which where alcohol could impact more.
Hey,
I started climbing 8 months ago, 2 times a week, and I've been trying to get a third training but I always feel completely trashed for two days after. I am in the age group of 16-23, so still very young. Are there any reasons or tips for this? My sessions are usually 2 hours long, climbing at max everytime.
Could be a multitude of factors, such as: your diet, amount of sleep you're getting, warm up/down routines etc.
They actually touch some of these issues near the end of the video (around 17.40)
@@natwt7384 Thanks, I'll try to improve on all of those aspects to see if it helps.
@Begga I found myself in the same situation for a long time. I needed 2 days of rest (sometimes 3! But I'm older, 30-35) after a hard day. I started looking into how much protein I was having everyday (I counted calories and macros for a week) and I realized I was far from having enough (I mostly eat vegetarian). I do sleep around 8h+ every night, so after changing my diet, in just a week I felt my recovery go much faster. Good luck!
Do you guys make some of the data from the crimpd app public? In particular, I'm interested to see how max hang correlates with bouldering grade, of course, relative to weight and height. Like, do taller climbers climb higher grades even though their finger strength is weaker?
You're very welcome to use our free finger strength testing service - just google "MyFingers Lattice Training" :-)
@@LatticeTraining Oh that's cool! Unfortunately I dont have access to the lattice rung, is the second smallest edge on beastmaker 1000 (I've heard it's 16-18mm?) equivalent to the small lattice edge?
Doggie is awesome
Kettlebell swings is a goox option for cardio
Dude how cold is it in this gym ? 😂
Step 1: Don't weigh 180+lbs (I can only imagine being 200+... godspeed heavy brothers)
Suggestions when you can’t even bring yourself to go to the climbing gym? My work has me fatigued and I never feel like climbing anymore. I know I love climbing though, otherwise wouldn’t be watching this 😂
Tom G personally just watching others climb in bids always gets me psyched for working hard! Id recommend ondra and midtbo vids!
Depending on your sleep cycle and work shift, try climbing in the morning before work.
Amanda Klapp climbing gym opens at 12 unfortunately
Basically it’s easiest if you can train at home, when you can’t make it to the gym. On the lattice trading vids on TH-cam they now include home training workouts for climbers. Having a pull up bar, finger board and some weights, bands etc you can create your own training environment. There are also core exercises that need no equipment.
Ultimately if you can put up some kind of home climbing wall that is ideal, even if it’s quite small!
Best video ever go fin !!!