Defender doors - fitting the seal to stop leaks - Success or fail?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ม.ค. 2018
- Defender door seals - one of my biggest nightmares!
You can fit the door nice and flush, but the seal itself is the problem, by holding the door out at the top corners and the bend in the body
Do you want flush fitting doors, or a leak free Rover?
A dilemma!
I have set up a Patreon as I would like to get a higher speed upload, which means I get post more videos, AND in 1080
Takes me about 2.5 hours to do 15 minutes at the moment.
I will be giving credits to my supports at the end of videos from now on.
/ britrest
If you have a pre 2005 Land Rover problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Again Mike, GREAT video, just ordered all new seals for my 200tdi 110, and hadn’t been able to get up the nerve to jump into resealing (thinking that I could actually make it worse!! Ha!) but really appreciate you bringing all of our knowledge up, very helpful!
Lol!
How can you make it worse than Land Rover!
Have a go!
If you get stuck - feel free to ask
But you are not alone if you find the seals are too thick and do not close properly
I thought it about time someone did highlight the fact that it is the seals problem not the fitting
Mike
i brought some new seals from a company called masai in the uk and the seals are great and dont have the reinforcing
I realise this was an old video but I have only just found the channel . what a refreshing collection of videos to see. No dramatic intro sounds & images, just down to earth presentations. Great thumbs up!
Am I right in thinking it is better to adjust the door prior to installing the seals?
My '91 Defender 90 pickup has both wonky doors & tired, split seals as well as completely rotted waist-seals. Its in poor shape overall so everything will need to be altered ... although not today, blowing a cold stormy gale in Somerset & no garage!
I'm incapable of the bigger mechanical jobs but I think I should be able to 'shut that door', lol.
I always fit the door without the seals - just be aware some cheap seals are so hard you have difficulty closing the door after fitting them. Some seals have reinforcements in the top corners - this makes the door stick out at the top
Thank you for the speedy response.
In your experience, is the rubber-quality of LR OEM really worth, in both price & longevity, double or greater than replacements?
Genuine Puma door seals fit and shut well - OEM are not OEM in this case Genuine ones are made in Poland. I will not fit anything else as they can spend days getting cheaper seals to fit
Grateful for your input. Thank you.
For the bottom seal, leave the bottom factory type seal off, but stick a standard foam rubber truck canopy strip type seal to the bottom of the door, not the body. Great videos, we all need the therapy.
Anyone else feel like crying when you try to get your doors to close as well as the car in the video and it just doesn't work. Might just stick edging strip in and black rtv sealant along the strip to get that seal and flush fit
Hi Mike greetings from sunny lancashire came up against this very problem today spent about an hour trying to get the door and seal to work together no chance!
Hi Simon
You had the same problem as me?
Frustrating isn't it!?
Mike
I was hoping that I had installed my seals the wrong way. The doors pop out when you try to open just like at 10:40. Wonder if we put that corner into some press before fitting in, would that help to get the door closed properly? Cheers.
Hello Mike,
great vid, I will try to set up new door-seals this month.
In anothert Vid youn compare two versions of seals with a ballpoint-pen. Can you name me the "best" version of the seal to use on a 2012 Puma 110?
And, of course", what to use instead of dumdum, as this product istn't available?
The best are the Genuine seals but a bit dear at £75 each.
You can use 3M strip caulk as a replacement
Where you pushed up the foam padding, could it be cut down in half & then re-inserted in the cut through the outer foam seal before you reseal it in the original position? I am soon at the point where I have to do this & will try it unless there is no point!
I see a similar comment made below. I wonder if it worked?
Hi Mike,
I’m having the same problem with my Defender 90 to the extent I really need to slam the one door to get it to latch properly. The foam insert in the seal seems to be the issue. Do you think it would work if I carefully removed the foam insert, sliced it in half and replaced it so that it wasn’t as big? I don’t mind if the door sits a few mm proud but it’s the fact I really need to slam the door to latch is what bothers me most.
Thanks.
By the way, love the videos. Best resource on the internet I’ve found for Defenders bar none.
Yes remove the foam (it is not glued in) and superglue the cut
The top corners are tricky and have the same foam but I noticed on later aftermarket seals the foam was not in the top sections
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd Thanks Mike. I’ll give it a try. Thanks for such a quick response.
@@BritannicaRestorations Hi Mike I had the same problem but after couple weeks all problems disappeared and now the doors closed perfectly ! The seal just need more time to settle down. Regards
I had new seals fitted years back and I struggled to shut the doors at all, yet the gap between seal and door at the top was huge. Better now mind.
I am afraid there is not much we can do
I saw a brand new Puma in the UK, and it looked as if the doors were falling off!
Mike
Maybe worth mentioning also that the bottom seals were updated with Puma and apparently do a much better job as they go around the corners of the doors and do not leave a gap at each corner.
Product #LR029309
Thank You Jeremy
I was aware of these, but they do not fit on the earlier square type door bottoms
Land Rovers solution (300 Tdi - Td5) was to stick a bit of self adhesive sponge on the door bottom corners
I think they fell off in the first downpour!
Lol!
Mike
They do fell off after opening the door a couple of times ;-)
Jeremy,
Sometimes I roll my eyes at the things Land Rover get away with
Never on a Japanese vehicle
Mike
What a pain in the back side it is
whats "dum dum"?
Biff
Dum Dum was a trade mark name in the UK of a rubberised sealing putty.
I see it is no longer available, but a similar product is 3M Strip caulk
www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/company-ca/all-3m-products/~/3M-Strip-Caulk-08578-black-1-ft-30-m-/?N=5002385+3293654356+3294529206&rt=rud
Not as flexible as the DumDum, so I would warm it up first
Mike
Britannica Restorations ..thanks Mike
You're welcome!
Mike
With my hearing, I thought you said gun gum, the stiuff you use for sealing exhausts! No wonder I was getting messy! :D
@@BritannicaRestorations