I bought exactly the same seal for the same door you replaced on this video, but it was too short near the hinge, and I can see the road when I'm driving. So I complained to the seller, and he sent me a replacement, which I found to be too big. After this video, I will give it another try, I'm still using the short one. Hope it works. Thanks Mike.
The bigger ones will be OK - you can lose excess material Just remember to start at the top down towards the bend, then put the bottom in and work up - works every time!
The problem I had was at the top section, it seemed too large and the top corner near the hinge would not fit. But I guess I was doing the wrong way, I will give a try next weekend. What I just saw is that there's another seal at the bottom, on the car itself. Mine doesn't have it, but there's a seal at the bottom of each door, which were replaced. Now I wonder if I should add it, or is this something model specific?
Are you sure you have them the right way round? You can tell the handed side my looking for the 90 degree joint - the front joint is at an angle and I believe has a cutaway on the inside Don't worry about being too long - start in the corners and make sure they are tight in the corners and then tap the seal in - it will fit! The seal on the door frame was on the pre 300Tdi, but the door seals are the same MIke
Well, I think it was about 18 months ago, so I don't remember well now. When I complained about the first short one, the seller sent the bigger one. But to me, at first, he sent the wrong model as it appeared to be 90 degree on both sides, but I will have to check again, and try with your method. I complained to the seller that it was the wrong model, but he said he checked before sending to me. So I was left with a short seal (that is on the car now) and the longer one, which seemed to be the wrong model. . I will update you if the longer will work, but will likely have time just on the next weekend. I will try to find the other seal that is at the bottom, on the car. Thanks Mike!
Hi great presentation easy to follow I have a Series 2A I have just fitted new genuine door seals after removing the old lip for the original seals the door closed fine without the seal but with the newseal in place the door won't close without a fair bit of force from about 4" from the latch (anti-burst) any pointer would be very helpful. Please continue to produce your great productions.
I assume this technique will only work with a genuine Land Rover seal, (made in Poland), do you warm up the seal strip before fitting to soften them? Chris B.
Oh boy. After watching this video I am actually less optimistic about what we are doing. We mounted our doors on an older truck and took a hard look at them to get them nice and flush. Then we added the door seals and now we cannot get them to shut properly. We followed the guidelines of the video. I am wondering if our door seals are the stiffer ones that just don't want to cooperate. Any advice or feedback is greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you fitted the aftermarket hard seals - I put some on my pickup thinking they would be better as they were from a different supplier - but worse than the ones that came off! Genuine Puma ones are the seals to go for
@@BritannicaRestorations I've just followed these instructions (and the other seal install you did) after straightening the doors as best I could before laying-in the seal. The driver's side (UK R/h drive) went in properly and the door is almost flush with the surrounding body-frame. It shuts to the second click on the latch but there are still gaps when sitting in the seat & the door closed. I had to remove the tubular reinforcement because with them in, that door just wouldn't close properly. The passenger door was actually square to the frame and using the same method of tapping-in the seal, I just can't get the door flush with the body, so I'm guessing the '91 90 200Tdi pickup has two different seals! By the way, the internal width of the door opening at the cill, on both doors, is a tight 34.5" not 34.75" as per your other video. I'll have another go later after stumping-up on a new LR Seal but may I ask for the Puma part no please?
Hi Mike. Have fitted new seals, but have water coming in at the top of the windows when driving, ie it’s the seal at the top which is failing. Any ideas? Love the videos. Please keep going.
Another excellent informative video, keep up the good work. Any advice about renewing the felt seals on my rattling rear sliding windows? Doesn't seem to be a good substitute material out there!
Ken Thanks for your support! Great idea! I think I have some side window seals in stock, if i have I will do a video this week. They are pretty easy to change without taking the windows out. It took a while digging through the parts books to find the replacement seals, but they do exist (but not listed for the 110 or 90!) Mike
Thanks for this vid! Working up the courage to do my Td5 110 driver side door and rear boot swing door. Are all the seals the same in the UK? Or are real parts best because they're the most flexible?
My rear door seal on my 91 110 is short about 1 inch on either side. Resulting in exhaust fumes. Is this installed incorrectly or would it need to be replaced. Perhaps they did not install like you did in your video (top corner, then bottom, then fill-in the rest). Thoughts on how to make it fit without ordering a new seal?
Thanks for the video, I'm planning on changing my door seals soon (before winter hopefully) just saw your video and knew it would be good, just wondering though could you run a bead of sikaflex or Tiger seal in the groove of the door seal before fitting it? Do you think it would be worth it or not?
@@BritannicaRestorations yeah I was worried about that too. But it's always bloody raining in Wales and LR thought making the gutter at the front of the roof too short would be a good idea haha
Yes, but how do you get door to shut and open properly? When I get them to open right, they don't ever shut right -- daylight through the top edges! If I get them to shut properly, they won't open, the latch is too tight.
You can bend and twist the doors to shut correctly - they are not that strong - I have fitted aftermarket doors and had the same problemIf they fit nice at the bottom but there is a gap at the top, bent the tops in - you need a bit of brute force and maybe a friend to help you support the door - but it can be doneJust be careful you do not dent the skin
I've heard of this before, I may give it a try. But I think I need to reset the doors completely because the whole thing is not flush, and only parts of it seem to fit right. I tried to make it sit tighter, but the latch is then too tight, and won't release! Thanks!
@@rvrnnr987 Two possible issue. Make sure you use genuine seals. The aftermarket ones are much stiffer. Second, your latch may need replacing. When everything is right, you should get a good seal and door that closes with one finger.
Thank you, without your instructions we would have failed for sure!
Great knowledge on application thank you (was just about to cut the seals to fit!) Most appreciated
Glad it helped
Just fitted one to a Series 2A, not a perfect fit, but better and cheaper than the original ones
I bought exactly the same seal for the same door you replaced on this video, but it was too short near the hinge, and I can see the road when I'm driving. So I complained to the seller, and he sent me a replacement, which I found to be too big. After this video, I will give it another try, I'm still using the short one. Hope it works. Thanks Mike.
The bigger ones will be OK - you can lose excess material
Just remember to start at the top down towards the bend, then put the bottom in and work up - works every time!
The problem I had was at the top section, it seemed too large and the top corner near the hinge would not fit. But I guess I was doing the wrong way, I will give a try next weekend. What I just saw is that there's another seal at the bottom, on the car itself. Mine doesn't have it, but there's a seal at the bottom of each door, which were replaced. Now I wonder if I should add it, or is this something model specific?
Are you sure you have them the right way round?
You can tell the handed side my looking for the 90 degree joint - the front joint is at an angle and I believe has a cutaway on the inside
Don't worry about being too long - start in the corners and make sure they are tight in the corners and then tap the seal in - it will fit!
The seal on the door frame was on the pre 300Tdi, but the door seals are the same
MIke
Well, I think it was about 18 months ago, so I don't remember well now. When I complained about the first short one, the seller sent the bigger one. But to me, at first, he sent the wrong model as it appeared to be 90 degree on both sides, but I will have to check again, and try with your method. I complained to the seller that it was the wrong model, but he said he checked before sending to me. So I was left with a short seal (that is on the car now) and the longer one, which seemed to be the wrong model. . I will update you if the longer will work, but will likely have time just on the next weekend. I will try to find the other seal that is at the bottom, on the car. Thanks Mike!
Hi Mike, I finally got the time to try it again. With your tips, it fits perfectly! No need to cut anything =) Thanks so much!
Marcelo
Hi great presentation easy to follow I have a Series 2A I have just fitted new genuine door seals after removing the old lip for the original seals the door closed fine without the seal but with the newseal in place the door won't close without a fair bit of force from about 4" from the latch (anti-burst) any pointer would be very helpful. Please continue to produce your great productions.
Glad it helped
I assume this technique will only work with a genuine Land Rover seal, (made in Poland), do you warm up the seal strip before fitting to soften them? Chris B.
I don't warm up seals - the aftermarket ones are too hard, so I have not used them for years
Oh boy. After watching this video I am actually less optimistic about what we are doing. We mounted our doors on an older truck and took a hard look at them to get them nice and flush. Then we added the door seals and now we cannot get them to shut properly. We followed the guidelines of the video. I am wondering if our door seals are the stiffer ones that just don't want to cooperate. Any advice or feedback is greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you fitted the aftermarket hard seals - I put some on my pickup thinking they would be better as they were from a different supplier - but worse than the ones that came off!
Genuine Puma ones are the seals to go for
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you for the reply. We will give the Puma's a go.
@@BritannicaRestorations I've just followed these instructions (and the other seal install you did) after straightening the doors as best I could before laying-in the seal.
The driver's side (UK R/h drive) went in properly and the door is almost flush with the surrounding body-frame. It shuts to the second click on the latch but there are still gaps when sitting in the seat & the door closed. I had to remove the tubular reinforcement because with them in, that door just wouldn't close properly.
The passenger door was actually square to the frame and using the same method of tapping-in the seal, I just can't get the door flush with the body, so I'm guessing the '91 90 200Tdi pickup has two different seals!
By the way, the internal width of the door opening at the cill, on both doors, is a tight 34.5" not 34.75" as per your other video.
I'll have another go later after stumping-up on a new LR Seal but may I ask for the Puma part no please?
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom!
I enjoyed that squadron leader..very good yes ..😁
Hi Mike. Have fitted new seals, but have water coming in at the top of the windows when driving, ie it’s the seal at the top which is failing. Any ideas? Love the videos. Please keep going.
Please check if the water is coming in through the seal or dripping from the inside gutter - it can be quite deceiving!
Another excellent informative video, keep up the good work. Any advice about renewing the felt seals on my rattling rear sliding windows? Doesn't seem to be a good substitute material out there!
Ken
Thanks for your support!
Great idea!
I think I have some side window seals in stock, if i have I will do a video this week.
They are pretty easy to change without taking the windows out.
It took a while digging through the parts books to find the replacement seals, but they do exist (but not listed for the 110 or 90!)
Mike
Here you go Ken!
Pretty easy and cheap to do
Mike
Thanks for this vid! Working up the courage to do my Td5 110 driver side door and rear boot swing door.
Are all the seals the same in the UK? Or are real parts best because they're the most flexible?
Genuine parts are softer
My rear door seal on my 91 110 is short about 1 inch on either side. Resulting in exhaust fumes. Is this installed incorrectly or would it need to be replaced. Perhaps they did not install like you did in your video (top corner, then bottom, then fill-in the rest). Thoughts on how to make it fit without ordering a new seal?
Start at both sides right at the bottom and as you say fill in the gap with the seal working up form the bottom - you may have to stretch it a bit
Great video... thanks for your time...J .Scotland
Thanks - trying to show what the workshop manuals do not!
Mike
Thanks for the video, I'm planning on changing my door seals soon (before winter hopefully) just saw your video and knew it would be good, just wondering though could you run a bead of sikaflex or Tiger seal in the groove of the door seal before fitting it? Do you think it would be worth it or not?
I do not thing sticking the seal on will help - will make it a bugger to get off if needs be in the future!
@@BritannicaRestorations yeah I was worried about that too. But it's always bloody raining in Wales and LR thought making the gutter at the front of the roof too short would be a good idea haha
Yes, but how do you get door to shut and open properly? When I get them to open right, they don't ever shut right -- daylight through the top edges! If I get them to shut properly, they won't open, the latch is too tight.
You can bend and twist the doors to shut correctly - they are not that strong - I have fitted aftermarket doors and had the same problemIf they fit nice at the bottom but there is a gap at the top, bent the tops in - you need a bit of brute force and maybe a friend to help you support the door - but it can be doneJust be careful you do not dent the skin
I've heard of this before, I may give it a try. But I think I need to reset the doors completely because the whole thing is not flush, and only parts of it seem to fit right. I tried to make it sit tighter, but the latch is then too tight, and won't release! Thanks!
@@rvrnnr987 Two possible issue. Make sure you use genuine seals. The aftermarket ones are much stiffer. Second, your latch may need replacing. When everything is right, you should get a good seal and door that closes with one finger.
Hi are these britpart thanku
Yes but they are too hard
Britannica Restorations Ltd so the ones you are using are which ...regards Paul