Another great video, this will save me so much money, and, more importantly, less frustration! I am looking forward to your rewiring one when you finally get your loom from Autosparks. Thank you.
Thanks matt. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't but I'm not 100% on that I'll have a look at the one in the yard on Monday and get back to you on that. 🙂👍
@@retro.restorations I’ve just cleaned up the steel seal retaining strip which holds the same original flap seal over the door top. So I’m guessing it’s standard
Hi, great video, I'll use those seals when I do my series door tops, I have the idea to use sikaflex 212FC to bond the seals in place it's really good body sealant adhesive that sticks to anything, thanks Stewart.
Do you have experience in doing this with the 109? i.e middle doors? Also wouldn't it be better to try to insert a small washer through the hole where the rivet goes to allow a more secure / larger surface area for the rivet to go against? Great video!
Hi, I've never done it with middle row doors but I imagine it'll be a similar process. If you can get a small washer in without making a big hole it could work better but I've never had a problem without. Thanks for watching 🙂 👍
enjoyed the video i bought the bottom and put them on and the door would not close so put them in the bin you are so right shit i will give your ones a go thanks for the video and advice
Thanks for the video. What brand of seals do you use? I've just paid a fortune for what I thought were genuine seals but there's no way the doors will ever close properly. Too rigid!
My drivers door ( and the rear door to a lesser extent) if I can see loads of daylight round it, then it’s on the catch and needs slamming again If I can only see a bit of daylight , it’s closed Good video mind, I might give that a go.
Could you please post link to the seals please? I have an old series 3 Exmil, with replaced door seals. They are stiff and big. Must use a lot of force to shut tfe doors. My bet is this will make for a better seal and snugger fit. :)
There available from most land rover spares suppliers and ebay you just need to search land rover series 3 door seals if it comes up as a one peace seal or states that it fits a defender aswell then thats what you want but I'll see if I can find a good link🙂👍
I don't think you got the point of the video 🤔 I'm more than aware of the different land rovers but this video is about making a land rover defender door seal fit on a series landy as New series seals are extremely poor quality and don't fit. 🙂👍
Thanks. Very useful. I appreciate all your Land Rover videos.
Thank you! 🙂 👍
Followed this today to get my seals ready to go on! Thanks a lot mate!
Great stuff. Thanks for watching 🙂👍
Thankyou. I've inherited my Dad's old stage 1 and have been wondering what to do about the seals. This will work a treat 👍
No worries! Thanks for watching 🙂👍
Another great video, this will save me so much money, and, more importantly, less frustration! I am looking forward to your rewiring one when you finally get your loom from Autosparks. Thank you.
Thanks! I'm glad it's helping people out that's the aim of the channel🙂 the loom os due in August 🤞 hopefully with no more delays 🙂👍
Great video and great looking truck!!!!!
Thank you 🙂👍
Good Tip , love the little helper such a cutie. Will that work on a 2A Landy??
Thanks. It will work the same on a 2A. 🙂👍
Nice to see the little man
Great video BROTHER
Cheers bro, He likes to make an appearance every now and then 🙂.
Now things are opening up give us a shout next time you up this way.🙂👍
Great stuff Craig. Would you know if the rear door seal fits the full door and cat flap set up ?
Thanks matt. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't but I'm not 100% on that I'll have a look at the one in the yard on Monday and get back to you on that. 🙂👍
@@retro.restorations I’ve just cleaned up the steel seal retaining strip which holds the same original flap seal over the door top. So I’m guessing it’s standard
Hi, great video, I'll use those seals when I do my series door tops, I have the idea to use sikaflex 212FC to bond the seals in place it's really good body sealant adhesive that sticks to anything, thanks Stewart.
Hi and thanks, sikaflex is good stuff and perfect for the job🙂👍
thanks for that money saving tip landy looking great and how cute is your lad torquay dave
No worries and thanks. He is awesome and never fails to make me smile🙂👍
Great truck and great video!
Thank you! 🙂 👍
Hes back again to discuss the 5 sec rule about crisps on the floor :)
😆😆😆I'm surprised he didn't call it 🤣
Do you have experience in doing this with the 109? i.e middle doors? Also wouldn't it be better to try to insert a small washer through the hole where the rivet goes to allow a more secure / larger surface area for the rivet to go against? Great video!
Hi, I've never done it with middle row doors but I imagine it'll be a similar process. If you can get a small washer in without making a big hole it could work better but I've never had a problem without. Thanks for watching 🙂 👍
Perhaps a hand riviter would stop the rubber dostortion? Phil
The rubbers do distort slightly but after a week or so they go back to shape and you can't tell. 🙂👍
enjoyed the video i bought the bottom and put them on and the door would not close so put them in the bin you are so right shit i will give your ones a go thanks for the video and advice
No worries! Thanks for watching 🙂👍
Hey mate, what is the name of the rubber product thanks
Thanks for the video. What brand of seals do you use? I've just paid a fortune for what I thought were genuine seals but there's no way the doors will ever close properly. Too rigid!
I got them from paddocks spares I can't remember the brand they where just the cheers ones. 🙂👍
My drivers door ( and the rear door to a lesser extent) if I can see loads of daylight round it, then it’s on the catch and needs slamming again If I can only see a bit of daylight , it’s closed
Good video mind, I might give that a go.
We do get used to landy eccentricities anybody that only drives new cars gets a shock when they get in an old landy😂😂👍
Could you please post link to the seals please? I have an old series 3 Exmil, with replaced door seals. They are stiff and big. Must use a lot of force to shut tfe doors. My bet is this will make for a better seal and snugger fit. :)
There available from most land rover spares suppliers and ebay you just need to search land rover series 3 door seals if it comes up as a one peace seal or states that it fits a defender aswell then thats what you want but I'll see if I can find a good link🙂👍
www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-front-door-rubber-seal-set/
Thx alot! I will definitely do this on my old landy
Maybe I will be able to lock the doors as well.. :)
No worries 👍
One more thing : do you do the same procedure for the sill seal?
would they fit a series 2 is there any difference
It should fit the same if its all standard I don't believe there's any big differences 🙂👍
Land Rover Series I, II, IIa and III 1948 - 1985, Land Rover Defender 1982 - 2016, the Land Rover you are working is a SERIES not a defender
I don't think you got the point of the video 🤔 I'm more than aware of the different land rovers but this video is about making a land rover defender door seal fit on a series landy as New series seals are extremely poor quality and don't fit. 🙂👍
@@retro.restorations Thank you, indeed must change all the seal in my Santana Series III 79.
My 7th Series, my first motorcar at 17 yo was a 57 Series I