Great videos. I really appreciate the time you took to make good quality demos. Im going to be looking into some leaks in a 110 and a 90 and I feel better about starting it now.
Nice work Mike! A real smackdown of the Land Rover "engineers". Unbelievable that they would put in drain holes and then block them up with a seal! Speechless.
My carpets got wet because the depth of water i was driving in was just coming over the sliding window channels... If you look at 'normal' car door inners, they come from the factory with a polythene sheet sealing all of the access holes into the door cavity to ensure any water that gets past the rubber seals run down the inside of the door to exit through the drain holes in the door bottom. My 90 is an early one and the doors consist of just a door skin and frame with sliding windows.
I have had the same problem with my landcruiser 80 series. Gonna sort it this weekend now youve shown me how to diagnose it. Im just thankful Ive not got an oil leak as well 😁
I'm dead-late at learning about this as I have a double issue on my 1991 Defender 90 Pickup. The n/side (UK passenger) door-seal, was twisted at the stay area, so after watching another of your videos, I pulled it off; removed the plastic piece around the stay and the side-windscreen trim and then, beginning in the top corners, reinserted the seal. The seal itself looked like a genuine LR rubber unit (softer with a slightly patterned backer) after after sealing the frame gaps with Blu-tac (all I had at the time) and taped them AND pushing Blu-tac over new outer waist-seals in the corners, blessed rainwater water pours in somewhere above the windscreen hinge-bolts. So now I'm wondering if the door-Felts need replacing too or whether the tiny gaps between the corners of the door & glass, also need plugging? The door seal itself, allows this door to close easily without slamming. The o/side door, even with a new LR Seal, just will not shut properly without slamming so hard, I fear the seal will break! I have adjusted the latch so that it will catch the second position and the door-bottom is flush with the body but the flippin' top is out about 12mm ... despite me trying to twist the door, although I seem to have placed the wooden block in the wrong position. However, it does not let water in as the opposite BUT watching this video has shown there's supposed to be another seal on the floor-edge on that metal-strip. There's no wonder I always get a massive draught through that door-bottom!! So may I ask if you could advise please, the part number for the door-sill seal, for the '91 200Tdi?
Mike, if stopping a 100% of the water getting into the bottom of the door near the drain hole is impossible would coating the inside of the door with a wax based product help prevent them from rotting out?
Many thanks for your prompt reply @BritannicaRestorations. Living in similar cold climate environment... could condensation be an issue of keeping the headliners moist? there is no dripping or leaks from above it just feels the headliners are moist? Regards from Alpine Switzerland
Great video! Is there a part number for the TD5 window seal? Door window seal? Did you need to modify it to install it? Lastly, is there something I can do for the door trim seals to not leak?
Hiya Mike, I have been so very lucky with my Snatch Landrover Defender 110, I live in England & your videos are so important to people who own Landrover Defenders.. I have owned this amazing vehicle for nearly 1 year, she went to Afghanistan in 2005, only 16,000 Genuine Miles. Military spec. Do you have a email address. Or what’s the best way to contact you. Stay safe. 🇬🇧
Hi! Seems the original Dum Dum is no longer manufactured You don’t want something too permanent as you may need to disassemble the seal at a later date Look for this 3M™ Black Strip Calk 08578 - very similar Lots of uses on Land Rovers Mike
Great videos. I really appreciate the time you took to make good quality demos. Im going to be looking into some leaks in a 110 and a 90 and I feel better about starting it now.
Thanks for watching!
Nice work Mike! A real smackdown of the Land Rover "engineers". Unbelievable that they would put in drain holes and then block them up with a seal! Speechless.
Yeap - lots of eye rolling eh?
Mike
My carpets got wet because the depth of water i was driving in was just coming over the sliding window channels...
If you look at 'normal' car door inners, they come from the factory with a polythene sheet sealing all of the access holes into the door cavity to ensure any water that gets past the rubber seals run down the inside of the door to exit through the drain holes in the door bottom.
My 90 is an early one and the doors consist of just a door skin and frame with sliding windows.
I have had the same problem with my landcruiser 80 series. Gonna sort it this weekend now youve shown me how to diagnose it. Im just thankful Ive not got an oil leak as well 😁
You can buy Genuine oil leaks from LR - comes with a free Defender!
The water Shedder sheet will direct the water to the drain better
Great video, as always. Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I'm dead-late at learning about this as I have a double issue on my 1991 Defender 90 Pickup.
The n/side (UK passenger) door-seal, was twisted at the stay area, so after watching another of your videos, I pulled it off; removed the plastic piece around the stay and the side-windscreen trim and then, beginning in the top corners, reinserted the seal. The seal itself looked like a genuine LR rubber unit (softer with a slightly patterned backer) after after sealing the frame gaps with Blu-tac (all I had at the time) and taped them AND pushing Blu-tac over new outer waist-seals in the corners, blessed rainwater water pours in somewhere above the windscreen hinge-bolts. So now I'm wondering if the door-Felts need replacing too or whether the tiny gaps between the corners of the door & glass, also need plugging?
The door seal itself, allows this door to close easily without slamming.
The o/side door, even with a new LR Seal, just will not shut properly without slamming so hard, I fear the seal will break! I have adjusted the latch so that it will catch the second position and the door-bottom is flush with the body but the flippin' top is out about 12mm ... despite me trying to twist the door, although I seem to have placed the wooden block in the wrong position. However, it does not let water in as the opposite BUT watching this video has shown there's supposed to be another seal on the floor-edge on that metal-strip. There's no wonder I always get a massive draught through that door-bottom!!
So may I ask if you could advise please, the part number for the door-sill seal, for the '91 200Tdi?
The early sill seal was MWC6130
top video Mike, looks like thats another avenue for me to explore and hopefully finally fix my soggy mat syndrome.
I love cheap quick fixes!
Mike
Mike, if stopping a 100% of the water getting into the bottom of the door near the drain hole is impossible would coating the inside of the door with a wax based product help prevent them from rotting out?
Should do
Hi Mike do you have the door seal part numbers for a 110? Love your videos.
what about moisture and leaks from the headliners; what should one do to address that eventhough the gutters have been sealed...?
Water is probably getting through the overlap joints on the roof itself and getting into the gutter on the inside
Many thanks for your prompt reply @BritannicaRestorations. Living in similar cold climate environment... could condensation be an issue of keeping the headliners moist? there is no dripping or leaks from above it just feels the headliners are moist? Regards from Alpine Switzerland
Yes, they can condensate pretty bad if you have a large temperature differential inside and out.
Sunroofs leak bad too!
thank youfor this, any suggested remedy?@@BritannicaRestorations
Closed cell foam is good -- I used some camping roll = glues very nice and cuts noise too
I get water dripping off my pedal and it does my head in. I can't find the leak
Great video! Is there a part number for the TD5 window seal? Door window seal? Did you need to modify it to install it? Lastly, is there something I can do for the door trim seals to not leak?
AJ
The part number is ALR5980
No modification at all!
Dum Dum seal is Proform PF300
I am just editing a door seal video!
Mike
My 300tdi is the same ive put new outer seals on dum dum in the corners still the same it looks to me like now the window doesnt touch the outer seal
Funny I searched for Pro Form 300 and just get excercise bikes : )
Hi, please could you give me a link where I can buy a new windows sealing gum. Thank you :)
www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/company-ca/all-3m-products/~/3M-Strip-Caulk-08578-black-1-ft-30-m-/?N=5002385+3293654356&rt=rud
Hiya Mike,
I have been so very lucky with my Snatch Landrover Defender 110, I live in England & your videos are so important to people who own Landrover Defenders.. I have owned this amazing vehicle for nearly 1 year, she went to Afghanistan in 2005, only 16,000 Genuine Miles.
Military spec.
Do you have a email address. Or what’s the best way to contact you.
Stay safe. 🇬🇧
My details are in the description below every video
Great video. I'm sorry if it's been asked before but who would you recommend I purchase some good quality door window seals for my D90?
Genuine are the best to be honest
I dont think we have dum dum here in Sweden. Would it work some kind of silicone or sikaflex instead of this?
Hi!
Seems the original Dum Dum is no longer manufactured
You don’t want something too permanent as you may need to disassemble the seal at a later date
Look for this 3M™ Black Strip Calk 08578 - very similar
Lots of uses on Land Rovers
Mike
ahh yes, that I think I can get a hold of! thanks a bunch! /Adam
Your plastic membrane is missing of the inside of the door.
it wont matter ,,, the doors dont fit any way , certainly no sealing at the bottom .
Like like :) as always ...
Thanks for the visit
Carpets?!
Lol!
That's why they made rubber mats!
We used to say in England, that Land Rovers went down hill when they fitted ashtrays!..
Mike
One thing land rover engineers did not get right.... Doors! Absolutely horrible.
which part would you say is the part they did get right ,,,, ? lol
Most of your videos could get the point across in half the time...thus saving you lots of time uploading...just a thought
Shut up imbecile