One of the best tutorials I've ever seen. I really appreciated the shot of all the tools needed before getting into the video. Montana spring is right around the corner and I'm gathering everything I need to get my bike ready to rip, this video helped immensely. Thank You!
i think this is the best, simple short video about it.. i just did yesterday,, if i can give advice.. the sprocket form factory,, bolt was so tight.. i actually damage one,, i ordered new so,, .. the hexagonal are rly fragile, you make it round so easly .. so when you force by hand , it just dont work well,, what i did for the 5 other one and it was working directly,, is to hammer the 17 wrench to unlock the thightness .. bolt had 8 years old.. i know some ppl heat them first.. you can try this too,, but dont force the hexagonal one if it can avoid other noob like me to mess up , your welcome ahh yeah and i dont talk about the slider. its 2 bit on it,, and its a pain in the ass, that why the man didnt change it on the video,, even if he should.. , so check that you buy the good one .. should have 2 rubber bit inner .. and these 2 rubber bit are a pain in the ass to put in the swing arm.. so buy a rubber hammer before ^^ to dont damage the paint on your swing arm,, bcs trust me,, you will need it,, voila, that was my beginner experience,, 🙂
Thanks! Yes, as you saw in the video, I damaged two of my rear sprocket bolts as well trying to twist the hex bolt instead of the nut on the back side. I can see impacting the wrench with a hammer would help as well. I didn't change the swingarm slider since, at the time, it still had some wear left on the indicator. However, it's nearing time to replace now, so I'll try to do a video on how to swap it out once I tackle that project.
This is a great video. It made my job a lot easier. Thanks! However, a word of caution about parts. You'll notice the original equipment front sprocket has rubberized material on it. That is a noise abatement feature. If you go for the JT Sprockets front sprocket shown here like I did, it does NOT have the rubberization on it and is noticeably noisier (and annoying). :(
Glad to be able to help. You are right about the rubber cushioning on the OEM front sprocket for noise suppression. However, in my case, I actually noticed a decrease in overall noise switching to the JT Sprocket with a new chain (mainly because my old chain was so worn after around 20k miles on it). If you want the OEM 14T sprocket, it’s PN 23801-KYJ-940 and can be found on Amazon here: amzn.to/3G3K9Lo (affiliate link).
Do not apply torque to the hex screw side, only the nut side or else you could strip out the screw. Use a hex socket to hold the screw in place while tightening the nut. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a way to measure torque, since the spokes are in the way preventing a torque wrench.
EVERYONE: "wax based chain lube" DID: "80W-90 Gear Oil" It's messy, but one of the few things literally written on the box that isn't in Japanese 😂 Whatever floats your boat, sealed chains don't really care lol
I think the most important take away is LUBE THE CHAIN! There's grease on the inside of each link, but regularly getting a little lubricant on the outside of the rings is still needed to extend the chain life. I personally use the wax based lube because of how easy it is to use. Plus, using it almost exclusively on my old chain (I bought the bike used with 2.4k miles and don't know the prior maintenance history), that original chain lasted 20k miles.
One of the best tutorials I've ever seen. I really appreciated the shot of all the tools needed before getting into the video. Montana spring is right around the corner and I'm gathering everything I need to get my bike ready to rip, this video helped immensely. Thank You!
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind words. Have fun riding!
Excellent video which gives clear concise instructions.
Thanks for creating and posting .
A great help when tackling this type of maintenance work.
👍👍
Thank you!
Thnk you …!
I am from Sri Lanka, and I have CRF250 m 😍
Your videos are very important to me
You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help.
Thanks!
You’re welcome! Thank you!
well explained in a simple way. best video that I got. thankyou
Thanks! Glad to be able to help!
Great but Noone has there 10mm. Still haven't found it. I'm not giving up.
Haha, true!
Such a simple detailed vid. Nice one pal 👍 🏴
Thanks!
Great video straight to the point, informative, and helpful! About to do the same with my 2016 CRF
Thanks, glad it was helpful for you!
Thank you wonderful video. You do a great job explaining.
Dean Stearns
You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help!
Hello, thanks by your video, the best i seen, thanks
Thank you! Glad to be able to help.
Mükemmel çok güzel ve anlaşılır 🇹🇷♥️
Thanks!
i think this is the best, simple short video about it..
i just did yesterday,,
if i can give advice.. the sprocket form factory,, bolt was so tight.. i actually damage one,, i ordered new so,, .. the hexagonal are rly fragile, you make it round so easly .. so when you force by hand , it just dont work well,, what i did for the 5 other one and it was working directly,, is to hammer the 17 wrench to unlock the thightness .. bolt had 8 years old..
i know some ppl heat them first.. you can try this too,, but dont force the hexagonal one
if it can avoid other noob like me to mess up , your welcome
ahh yeah and i dont talk about the slider. its 2 bit on it,, and its a pain in the ass, that why the man didnt change it on the video,, even if he should.. ,
so check that you buy the good one .. should have 2 rubber bit inner .. and these 2 rubber bit are a pain in the ass to put in the swing arm.. so buy a rubber hammer before ^^ to dont damage the paint on your swing arm,, bcs trust me,, you will need it,,
voila, that was my beginner experience,, 🙂
Thanks!
Yes, as you saw in the video, I damaged two of my rear sprocket bolts as well trying to twist the hex bolt instead of the nut on the back side. I can see impacting the wrench with a hammer would help as well.
I didn't change the swingarm slider since, at the time, it still had some wear left on the indicator. However, it's nearing time to replace now, so I'll try to do a video on how to swap it out once I tackle that project.
This is a great video. It made my job a lot easier. Thanks! However, a word of caution about parts. You'll notice the original equipment front sprocket has rubberized material on it. That is a noise abatement feature. If you go for the JT Sprockets front sprocket shown here like I did, it does NOT have the rubberization on it and is noticeably noisier (and annoying). :(
Glad to be able to help. You are right about the rubber cushioning on the OEM front sprocket for noise suppression. However, in my case, I actually noticed a decrease in overall noise switching to the JT Sprocket with a new chain (mainly because my old chain was so worn after around 20k miles on it). If you want the OEM 14T sprocket, it’s PN 23801-KYJ-940 and can be found on Amazon here: amzn.to/3G3K9Lo (affiliate link).
fantastic video,thanks a lot.
You are welcome!
Thx
👍🏼
Nicely done. Thx!
Thank you!
great instructions! do you need to measure the torque of the driven sprocket bolts and from the hex screw side or the nut side?
Do not apply torque to the hex screw side, only the nut side or else you could strip out the screw. Use a hex socket to hold the screw in place while tightening the nut. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a way to measure torque, since the spokes are in the way preventing a torque wrench.
nice content sir, which is best to adjust the chain, rear tyre on or off the ground
The manual specifically says to have it supported on the side stand with transmission in neutral, so rear tire ON the ground.
@@FixandMaintain Thank you sir
How many lbs did you torque the rear sprocket nuts to?
It should be 24ft/lbs. It has a self-locking nut, so torque isn’t going to make a huge difference as long as you get it close.
@FixandMaintain sweet. Thanks for the info
EVERYONE: "wax based chain lube"
DID: "80W-90 Gear Oil"
It's messy, but one of the few things literally written on the box that isn't in Japanese 😂
Whatever floats your boat, sealed chains don't really care lol
I think the most important take away is LUBE THE CHAIN! There's grease on the inside of each link, but regularly getting a little lubricant on the outside of the rings is still needed to extend the chain life.
I personally use the wax based lube because of how easy it is to use. Plus, using it almost exclusively on my old chain (I bought the bike used with 2.4k miles and don't know the prior maintenance history), that original chain lasted 20k miles.