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I believe the Venture does have the 4T65E transmission as well, so it should be the same fluid change procedure. The Lucas Transmission Fix is optional, depending on if you are having the issues that it is designed to help with.

@@FixandMaintain muchas gracias por su respuesta profesor.

You’re welcome! It was great that this issue has the low cost option of replacing the switch but also the little to no cost option of cleaning it out.

It takes 7.4qts. So just under 2 gallons.

You're welcome!

Yes, this is the blend door actuator for the mode door. Thankfully the temperature blend door hasn't gone out on my Titan. But if it does, I will definitely be making a video of replacing it.

That’s great! You’re welcome! Did you use the same replacement switch I have linked in the description for your Maxima? There’s not much info about the exact switch since it’s typically bundled with the entire lock cylinder on the Nissan parts sites.

If you notice the jump-cut in the video, it did take several attempts to get the old one out. Still much easier than taking out the radiator or lifting the engine to get more room, though.

@ agree with ya 100% I just was hopeful for like an inch or two more clearance would have made a world of difference lol

Yeah, but the engineers can’t be that nice to us 😜

You’re welcome! Yes, unfortunately it does seem to be a common problem with that model. Thanks for the support!

I didn’t see that TSB, so thanks for mentioning it! Great info!

The specific blend door that I replaced in this video is for the mode selector (as opposed to a temperature blend door), but the part is nonetheless a blend door actuator. Also for SEO purposes, I intentionally titled it Blend Door Actuator, but tried to make it obvious that it was for the Mode selector blend door on the thumbnail image.

@FixandMaintain never have I gone to an O'Reilly's and they say it like that. It's a mode door actuator, a blend door , a main door actuator. Still should change it title it is mis leading. I was looking for a blend door actuator

On my Titan it’s the same part for both the mode blend door and the temperature blend door 🤷🏼‍♂️

@@FixandMaintain I guess I even wrote you 2 years ago.

That’s a terrible situation, but glad I was able to help you get back on the road!

Thank you!

You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help! I’m really surprised I had to replace an alternator on this new of a vehicle, but thankfully it’s not too hard of a job for a DIY project.

Yes, it should be.

@ thank you. It seems there are several actuators. How did you know this one was the right one?

There are two actuators (or three, if you have dual climate control) for the Titan, but I believe all of them are the same part number. I haven’t had to replace the temperature actuator in my Titan, but if I do, I will try to do a video on it as well.

Wow, mine is a 2013 model with over 35,000km on it! The main things to go over are engine oil (break-in oil needs to be changed at 1,000km anyway), brake fluid, lube the chain, check and possibly replace the coolant, and check the tires for age and possible dry rotting. You may need to replace the battery as well, but depends on how well it starts once you start riding.

Thanks!

You may be able to get the side panel out without removing the seat, but it’s much easier with it off.

You’re welcome! The transfer case is one of those maintenance items that’s often overlooked. The first time I changed the fluid in mine after I bought it it looked as dark as used motor oil.

@FixandMaintain wow that's bad. That's exactly how mine looked after changing it. The reason I did was because I had major leaking and didn't know where they where coming from and by the time I drained it I only had a little under on quart left. I ended up cleaning and patching all my leaking with some 3m gasket sealer that saved me so much money.

Haha, that’s one reason I do a voiceover and not narrating while I’m working 😝

You are correct, the iridium spark plugs should come pre gapped from the factory. Also, due to how delicate the iridium plugs are, you’re not supposed to adjust the gap due to the possibility of damage. It’s just to verify the factory gap is correct and that the ground electrode wasn’t bent during transit.

You’re welcome! Hope everything goes smoothly for you.

The main reason I went with DOT 3 vs 4 is because I had an unopened bottle sitting on my shelf already. There’s not much of a difference between the two. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point, but less susceptible to water absorption. I don’t think either of those are issues with the CRF250L. It may matter in a high performance bike or sports car, but not on a small dual sport. I’ve never had my brakes come even close to overheating with DOT 3 and it’s a sealed system anyway.

@ good points. I run with sports bikes & do Supermoto stuff out on the street often & am pretty hard on my brakes. I also do single track (change out my rims & tires for it too when I do) & have upgraded to Ohlins front & rear for the hard riding I do. But chill riding & some fire road trails… I can see using DOT-3. 👍😎

That it is!

You’re welcome! That’s great that you’re still able to work on your truck! It would be so much easier if there was a way around laying in the driver’s side floorboard, but I don’t see any way around that.

It needs to be checked with the engine off.

@@FixandMaintain thank you

Thanks! It’s a 2013 with over 20k miles, but it’s always been kept in a garage and mostly ridden on the road.

@@FixandMaintain Wow meticulously kept, I just picked up a slightly used 2017 CRF250L Rally so doing the same tire upgrade this weekend. Your videos are very helpful, thanks.

Nice! I just replaced the back tire on mine (with another 705) and replaced the chain slide, but haven’t had time to finish editing the videos and recording voiceover yet. Hopefully I’ll be able to get those videos up soon.

Thanks! I love those dual sport tires! Of course I do have a spare knobby back tire to put on if I want to do any serious off roading.

@@FixandMaintain This might be a really dumb question, but what tire pressure would you set on the Shinkos, you don't do the factory pressure 22 do you? Thanks

@CheekyMiner I do run 22psi in mine. Typically the manufacturer’s recommendations for tire pressures are based on multiple factors for that specific model. There may be reasons to go over or under that pressure, but I’m personally going to stick with what they recommend for my bike.

Just remove the black plastic piece in front of the white plate, adjust things to get it back into position, then reinstall the black piece. It may be a bit tricky to hold it in place while you put everything back together, especially since there’s not much room to work, but it’s totally fixable.

Thank you!

Thanks, good to know! I don’t have one with a column shifter, so I didn’t realize that would be an issue.

That’s exactly what I was worried about. It didn’t look like there was much space. Thanks for letting us know.

Soooo this wouldn’t work in a avalanche eh?

Thanks!

Does yours have the Rockford Fosgate audio system?

You’re welcome! Yes, the mode actuator is somewhat simple to replace, as long as you don’t have the Rockford Fosgate stereo system (that significantly restricts access). It does require laying on your back and some hand gymnastics, but still relatively straightforward. I haven’t had to replace the temperature actuator on mine, but I’ve heard it is extremely hard to access.

Is it making noise currently when you change temp? Was it ticking before changing?

@@FixandMaintain no it was ticking a couple years ago and I replaced the passenger side actuator which stopped the ticking. It hasnt ticked since and most recently I changed the actuator due to the heat not working

I’m not sure. You can test it by removing the actuator, then plugging it back in and testing it with it not installed. Also check to see if you can turn the blend door itself or if it is stuck.

@ sorry for the late reply, but how would I turn the blend door? Im assuming that it is stuck because after changing the actuator the first time, the heat stopped working after i changed the temperature controls on the driver side

You can turn the blend door manually by rotating the white plastic piece that sticks out after removing the actuator.

You’re welcome!

I love being able to repair things, but yeah, sometimes they’re just too worn out and need to be replaced.

No problem, thank you!

Running the engine with the radiator cap off is really only for topping off the coolant in the radiator (before it's completely full) after a coolant change. If it’s already full, the flow from the water pump and the thermal expansion from the engine will certainly cause it to start overflowing. Since your system shouldn't have air bubbles in it, just make sure it's topped off when the engine is cold (and not running). Then, go back and check it and the reservoir again later (with it COLD) after running the engine to see if it needs to be topped off again. In case you want to know the science behind it: The radiator cap is needed to raise the pressure in the cooling system because pressures above atmospheric pressure actually raise the boiling temperature of the water/coolant mix. That way the high temps in the engine don't just create steam inside the cooling system. When there's no air in the system, it should dump any excess coolant into the reservoir if it goes above the preset pressure due to thermal expansion. But then, as the system cools, the hose going to the reservoir will draw coolant back in like a syphon to keep the system full.

Thanks so much for taking time to respond! I bought you a coffee! (Well an espresso anyway). This is the first car/ truck I've owned where when the engine is cold and the radiator cap off that coolant has flowed out like a running tap. Is there something different with a titan compared to say a corolla? It still seems to weird to me but ok I'll take your advice and make sure it's topped off then after a drive just make sure the overflow stays put.... please don't let it be a head gasket as I stupidly didnt check when I bought the truck.

Thanks! I haven't ever started my Titan with a full radiator with the engine cold and radiator cap off, but I have seen similar coolant overflow on other vehicles. As long as your oil is normal, exhaust is normal, power is normal, and the coolant level stabilizes after refilling, you should be fine.

@FixandMaintain you're welcome. Ok I'll get a better chance to drive it tomorrow and check the levels. Only just bought it. So far loving my truck!!

@@FixandMaintain same thing LOL! But glad to know its normal

Thanks!

You’re welcome!

Do you have a clicking noise when you change the temperature controls like in the video?

@@FixandMaintain no it makes a rotating noise

Have you checked the coolant level?

@@FixandMaintain yes when I open the cap should the coolant be to the top

@dashawnchill5033 the coolant should be completely full (at the top) under the “radiator cap” when the engine is cold. I use quotations since it’s to the left of the engine and not exactly on the radiator like a traditional car, but it is technically the radiator cap. Then, the reservoir should be at the full line, which if I remember right, is somewhere below halfway on the white plastic tank.

Is the ABS light also on? Does the engine seem to misfire?

@@FixandMaintain Thanks for replying. No ABS light and no misfire. More like rough idling that worsens in hills or quick acceleration. When letting up on the gas the light stops blinking after 30 seconds. I’ve only driven it a couple miles for testing. I’m thinking a bad plug? They are the same as originally installed AC Delco Possibly I didn’t get the intake gaskets back on properly?

I think either of those are plausible. If you have a scan tool, that would be the best way to diagnose. If you don’t have one, most major auto parts stores will scan codes for free.

@@FixandMaintain I should invest in a scan tool, just not sure I’d understand what it says. I’ll take another look tomorrow. Nearest store is 5 miles away and I’m afraid to drive it that far. Thanks again

I have the Harbor Freight version of this amzn.to/3NdS10g that I picked up a few years ago and it's the perfect size for throwing in a vehicle tool bag. Its button layout is a little weird, but gets the job done. It gives both the code and a small description. But if that's not enough info, just googling the code will be enough to figure out what's going on. There are more expensive scan tools that have even more features, but that one covers all the basics with check engine and ABS codes.

That’s no good. Yes, I think your suspicion is accurate. I’ve used a couple of these kits over the years and haven’t had any issues. I’ve also used a roll of similar double-sided adhesive with a hole punched in the middle to utilize the same kit on multiple chips (using a USB powered UV light to cure one while going through the filling process on the next chip) with similar success.

You’re welcome! Thank you!

I haven’t ever worked on a 2010 Armada, but I believe it should be the same.

Thanks! Yeah, I try to do all the research 😉

Looks like the expensive Clearshield kits are geared towards professional repairs versus this that’s geared towards DIY.

@@FixandMaintain So the inexpensive Permatex kit is geared towards amateur DIY repairs versus Clearshield that’s geared towards professionals. Got it. Thanks 🙏

Not that I’m aware of, but I’m not sure why they wouldn’t sell it separately. I hate that Chevy removed the fob program feature from the menu. With older models, it was a setting in the info center to learn new remotes.

Glad to be able to help!

Haha, you’re welcome!